Re: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID
It might help, Bill, but the Columbia book is only drawings. Dimensions in addition will be helpful. Ron -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of William Zucca Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 5:25 PM To: Antique Phonograph List Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID Ron: Should I send you a picture? GrnMountainBill On Sat, Mar 19, 2011 at 3:49 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: > Possibly a 150? > > Ron L > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > On > Behalf Of William Zucca > Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 3:32 PM > To: Antique Phonograph List > Subject: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID > > Dear Members: I have a Columbia floor model phonograph that I cannot > identify. It has short legs, two doors in front with 4- pivot out record > wooden boxes with knobs, a drawer under the record boxes, and two > horizontal > slats for the volume control. Also unusual is that the motorboard under > the > lid is raised with radiused edges and corners. All the controls are > obviously Columbia as is the arm/reproducer. > > I have a picture I can send you upon request to help with I.D. > > Thanks, > GrnMountainBill > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
The easy test is to let the diamond run on a shiny area of run-out at the end of a record. If you see a scratched band, the diamond is worn/damaged. It is a good idea to test this on a couple of different disks because I had one DD that showed the line even with a new stylus and when no other record tested with that stylus showed a band. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 11:18 PM To: Antique Phonograph List Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair For those that have not noticed it being done. The standard dealer test of the condition of the DD diamond stylus is to run their dirty thumb over it and if it feels like there is a point on it they pronounce it "good". So, plan on buying a replacement bar or trashing the records. If you happen to have a good microscope you can inspect the point yourself for condition as it is a rounded end conical shape and is symmetric with no flat spots. On 03/19/2011 09:10 PM, Steven Medved wrote: > > If you buy a reproducer you can count on the diamond being bad, 2 and only 2 of the Diamond ABC reproducers I have rebuilt have had good diamonds, the rest were worn or damaged. I purchased an Edisonic on eBay with a good diamond and recently I did a Dance and and Edisonic for a man and both diamonds were good. This is the exception rather than the rule. > > People think diamonds are indestructible but I NEVER play any DD record with surface damage and I lower my stylus in the starting groove then I spin up the record, and I stop the record before I raise the reproducer. > > When used as a stylus diamonds in DD reproducers are weak and must be carefully shielded from damage: > Toughness > Toughness relates to a material's ability to resist breakage from forceful impact. The toughness of natural diamond has been measured as 3.4 MN m-3/2,[10] which is good compared to other gemstones, but poor compared to most engineering materials. As with any material, the macroscopic geometry of a diamond contributes to its resistance to breakage. Diamond is therefore more fragile in some orientations than others. > > According to Edison Diamond Disc Re-Creations records& artists 1910-1929 page 107: > > In this process the diamonds were first silver plated, then mounted on rods with paraffin, plated for 72 hours with nickel layers electro deposited under tension. The styli were thus held under layers of nickel at thousands of pounds of pressure. The nickel-encased diamonds were then polished to conical shape, the nickel at the stylus point being found away as the diamond was polished. The finished stylus was then soldered into its stylus bar. In the early days, bare diamonds were just soldered into bars and were prone to breakage when carelessly lowered onto the record. > > The original DD styli were soldered in, Edison stopped this practice when it was noted that such diamonds were prone to damage when carelessly lowered onto records. The earliest bars have the bare diamond soldered in; the later ones were first plated with nickel and then soldered in. To understand this think of a wooden pencil the diamond is the lead. When the pencil is sharpened the wood is removed and the lead is shaped, the wood is the nickel and the lead is the diamond. > > > > >> From: vinyl.visi...@live.com >> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >> Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:18:09 -0400 >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair >> >> >> I went through that whole thing with a DD player I had. I actually thought it would be better to buy an entire reproducer, because of the cost... but I bought it on eBay - it had a diamond, but it was bad - it played, but tore up records. It took buying three to get one decent one. There is no way to determine if an eBay seller actually knows if they are good or bad - some might, but more than likely, you will get one that someone else had trouble with. >> >> >> Buy one from a reputable phono guy like George Vollema in Michigan or Ron Sitko, its worth it. Even if you buy the stylus mounted on a needle bar - those reproducers are a pain to rebuild, especially removing and replacing the needle bar and trying not to break the little string that connects it... It takes a punch the size of a blunt needle to remove the pin, which is also rounded on the end and since they have been in there almost 100 yrs., they can be very aggravating. All in all, if you don't need more stress in your life, buy a rebuilt one from someone who knows how to do it - a jeweler most likely will not. >> >> >> Curt >> >> >> >>> From: kb...@charter.net >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >>> Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:19:58 -0500 >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair >>> >>> Curt, >>> Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was >>> considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications >>> of the actual diamond poin
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
.030 conical. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ken and Brenda Brekke Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 4:18 PM To: 'Antique Phonograph List' Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler could set? I have heard some pretty high prices for stylus bar repairs and was just wondering if a repair could be done at a local jeweler. Thanks, Ken Brekke ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
Another way to test is to run your finger nail over the point. If the point scratched the finger nail, the point is bad. Use light pressure. Harvey Kravitz From: Rich To: Antique Phonograph List Sent: Sat, March 19, 2011 8:17:47 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair For those that have not noticed it being done. The standard dealer test of the condition of the DD diamond stylus is to run their dirty thumb over it and if it feels like there is a point on it they pronounce it "good". So, plan on buying a replacement bar or trashing the records. If you happen to have a good microscope you can inspect the point yourself for condition as it is a rounded end conical shape and is symmetric with no flat spots. On 03/19/2011 09:10 PM, Steven Medved wrote: > > If you buy a reproducer you can count on the diamond being bad, 2 and only 2 > of >the Diamond ABC reproducers I have rebuilt have had good diamonds, the rest >were >worn or damaged. I purchased an Edisonic on eBay with a good diamond and >recently I did a Dance and and Edisonic for a man and both diamonds were good. > >This is the exception rather than the rule. > > People think diamonds are indestructible but I NEVER play any DD record with >surface damage and I lower my stylus in the starting groove then I spin up the >record, and I stop the record before I raise the reproducer. > > When used as a stylus diamonds in DD reproducers are weak and must be > carefully >shielded from damage: > Toughness > Toughness relates to a material's ability to resist breakage from forceful >impact. The toughness of natural diamond has been measured as 3.4 MN >m-3/2,[10] >which is good compared to other gemstones, but poor compared to most >engineering >materials. As with any material, the macroscopic geometry of a diamond >contributes to its resistance to breakage. Diamond is therefore more fragile >in >some orientations than others. > > According to Edison Diamond Disc Re-Creations records& artists 1910-1929 > page >107: > > In this process the diamonds were first silver plated, then mounted on rods >with paraffin, plated for 72 hours with nickel layers electro deposited under >tension. The styli were thus held under layers of nickel at thousands of >pounds >of pressure. The nickel-encased diamonds were then polished to conical shape, >the nickel at the stylus point being found away as the diamond was polished. >The finished stylus was then soldered into its stylus bar. In the early days, >bare diamonds were just soldered into bars and were prone to breakage when >carelessly lowered onto the record. > > The original DD styli were soldered in, Edison stopped this practice when it >was noted that such diamonds were prone to damage when carelessly lowered onto >records. The earliest bars have the bare diamond soldered in; the later ones >were first plated with nickel and then soldered in. To understand this think >of >a wooden pencil the diamond is the lead. When the pencil is sharpened the >wood >is removed and the lead is shaped, the wood is the nickel and the lead is the >diamond. > > > > >> From: vinyl.visi...@live.com >> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >> Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:18:09 -0400 >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair >> >> >> I went through that whole thing with a DD player I had. I actually thought >> it >>would be better to buy an entire reproducer, because of the cost... but I >>bought >>it on eBay - it had a diamond, but it was bad - it played, but tore up >>records. >>It took buying three to get one decent one. There is no way to determine if >>an >>eBay seller actually knows if they are good or bad - some might, but more >>than >>likely, you will get one that someone else had trouble with. >> >> >> Buy one from a reputable phono guy like George Vollema in Michigan or Ron >>Sitko, its worth it. Even if you buy the stylus mounted on a needle bar - >>those >>reproducers are a pain to rebuild, especially removing and replacing the >>needle >>bar and trying not to break the little string that connects it... It takes a >>punch the size of a blunt needle to remove the pin, which is also rounded on >>the >>end and since they have been in there almost 100 yrs., they can be very >>aggravating. All in all, if you don't need more stress in your life, buy a >>rebuilt one from someone who knows how to do it - a jeweler most likely will >>not. >> >> >> Curt >> >> >> >>> From: kb...@charter.net >>> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org >>> Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:19:58 -0500 >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair >>> >>> Curt, >>> Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was >>> considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications >>> of the actual diamond point. The repair cost seems rather high in >>> comparison of the whole reproducer. >>> Thanks, >>> Ken B. >>> >>> -Origin
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
For those that have not noticed it being done. The standard dealer test of the condition of the DD diamond stylus is to run their dirty thumb over it and if it feels like there is a point on it they pronounce it "good". So, plan on buying a replacement bar or trashing the records. If you happen to have a good microscope you can inspect the point yourself for condition as it is a rounded end conical shape and is symmetric with no flat spots. On 03/19/2011 09:10 PM, Steven Medved wrote: If you buy a reproducer you can count on the diamond being bad, 2 and only 2 of the Diamond ABC reproducers I have rebuilt have had good diamonds, the rest were worn or damaged. I purchased an Edisonic on eBay with a good diamond and recently I did a Dance and and Edisonic for a man and both diamonds were good. This is the exception rather than the rule. People think diamonds are indestructible but I NEVER play any DD record with surface damage and I lower my stylus in the starting groove then I spin up the record, and I stop the record before I raise the reproducer. When used as a stylus diamonds in DD reproducers are weak and must be carefully shielded from damage: Toughness Toughness relates to a material's ability to resist breakage from forceful impact. The toughness of natural diamond has been measured as 3.4 MN m-3/2,[10] which is good compared to other gemstones, but poor compared to most engineering materials. As with any material, the macroscopic geometry of a diamond contributes to its resistance to breakage. Diamond is therefore more fragile in some orientations than others. According to Edison Diamond Disc Re-Creations records& artists 1910-1929 page 107: In this process the diamonds were first silver plated, then mounted on rods with paraffin, plated for 72 hours with nickel layers electro deposited under tension. The styli were thus held under layers of nickel at thousands of pounds of pressure. The nickel-encased diamonds were then polished to conical shape, the nickel at the stylus point being found away as the diamond was polished. The finished stylus was then soldered into its stylus bar. In the early days, bare diamonds were just soldered into bars and were prone to breakage when carelessly lowered onto the record. The original DD styli were soldered in, Edison stopped this practice when it was noted that such diamonds were prone to damage when carelessly lowered onto records. The earliest bars have the bare diamond soldered in; the later ones were first plated with nickel and then soldered in. To understand this think of a wooden pencil the diamond is the lead. When the pencil is sharpened the wood is removed and the lead is shaped, the wood is the nickel and the lead is the diamond. From: vinyl.visi...@live.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:18:09 -0400 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair I went through that whole thing with a DD player I had. I actually thought it would be better to buy an entire reproducer, because of the cost... but I bought it on eBay - it had a diamond, but it was bad - it played, but tore up records. It took buying three to get one decent one. There is no way to determine if an eBay seller actually knows if they are good or bad - some might, but more than likely, you will get one that someone else had trouble with. Buy one from a reputable phono guy like George Vollema in Michigan or Ron Sitko, its worth it. Even if you buy the stylus mounted on a needle bar - those reproducers are a pain to rebuild, especially removing and replacing the needle bar and trying not to break the little string that connects it... It takes a punch the size of a blunt needle to remove the pin, which is also rounded on the end and since they have been in there almost 100 yrs., they can be very aggravating. All in all, if you don't need more stress in your life, buy a rebuilt one from someone who knows how to do it - a jeweler most likely will not. Curt From: kb...@charter.net To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:19:58 -0500 Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair Curt, Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications of the actual diamond point. The repair cost seems rather high in comparison of the whole reproducer. Thanks, Ken B. -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 4:22 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair A new one is $80 to $100 on a new stylus bar, last time I checked - might have gone up a little since then. You can probably get one from Ron Sitko. If a jeweler could set one it would probably cost that much or more and if your diamond fell out and you have it, it may have been damaged... Curt From: kb
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
If you buy a reproducer you can count on the diamond being bad, 2 and only 2 of the Diamond ABC reproducers I have rebuilt have had good diamonds, the rest were worn or damaged. I purchased an Edisonic on eBay with a good diamond and recently I did a Dance and and Edisonic for a man and both diamonds were good. This is the exception rather than the rule. People think diamonds are indestructible but I NEVER play any DD record with surface damage and I lower my stylus in the starting groove then I spin up the record, and I stop the record before I raise the reproducer. When used as a stylus diamonds in DD reproducers are weak and must be carefully shielded from damage: Toughness Toughness relates to a material's ability to resist breakage from forceful impact. The toughness of natural diamond has been measured as 3.4 MN m-3/2,[10] which is good compared to other gemstones, but poor compared to most engineering materials. As with any material, the macroscopic geometry of a diamond contributes to its resistance to breakage. Diamond is therefore more fragile in some orientations than others. According to Edison Diamond Disc Re-Creations records & artists 1910-1929 page 107: In this process the diamonds were first silver plated, then mounted on rods with paraffin, plated for 72 hours with nickel layers electro deposited under tension. The styli were thus held under layers of nickel at thousands of pounds of pressure. The nickel-encased diamonds were then polished to conical shape, the nickel at the stylus point being found away as the diamond was polished. The finished stylus was then soldered into its stylus bar. In the early days, bare diamonds were just soldered into bars and were prone to breakage when carelessly lowered onto the record. The original DD styli were soldered in, Edison stopped this practice when it was noted that such diamonds were prone to damage when carelessly lowered onto records. The earliest bars have the bare diamond soldered in; the later ones were first plated with nickel and then soldered in. To understand this think of a wooden pencil the diamond is the lead. When the pencil is sharpened the wood is removed and the lead is shaped, the wood is the nickel and the lead is the diamond. > From: vinyl.visi...@live.com > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:18:09 -0400 > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > I went through that whole thing with a DD player I had. I actually thought it > would be better to buy an entire reproducer, because of the cost... but I > bought it on eBay - it had a diamond, but it was bad - it played, but tore up > records. It took buying three to get one decent one. There is no way to > determine if an eBay seller actually knows if they are good or bad - some > might, but more than likely, you will get one that someone else had trouble > with. > > > Buy one from a reputable phono guy like George Vollema in Michigan or Ron > Sitko, its worth it. Even if you buy the stylus mounted on a needle bar - > those reproducers are a pain to rebuild, especially removing and replacing > the needle bar and trying not to break the little string that connects it... > It takes a punch the size of a blunt needle to remove the pin, which is also > rounded on the end and since they have been in there almost 100 yrs., they > can be very aggravating. All in all, if you don't need more stress in your > life, buy a rebuilt one from someone who knows how to do it - a jeweler most > likely will not. > > > Curt > > > > > From: kb...@charter.net > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:19:58 -0500 > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > > Curt, > > Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was > > considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications > > of the actual diamond point. The repair cost seems rather high in > > comparison of the whole reproducer. > > Thanks, > > Ken B. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On > > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > > Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 4:22 PM > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > > > > A new one is $80 to $100 on a new stylus bar, last time I checked - might > > have gone up a little since then. You can probably get one from Ron Sitko. > > If a jeweler could set one it would probably cost that much or more and if > > your diamond fell out and you have it, it may have been damaged... > > Curt > > > > > > > From: kb...@charter.net > > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:17:50 -0500 > > > Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > > > > Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for > > > the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler >
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
I went through that whole thing with a DD player I had. I actually thought it would be better to buy an entire reproducer, because of the cost... but I bought it on eBay - it had a diamond, but it was bad - it played, but tore up records. It took buying three to get one decent one. There is no way to determine if an eBay seller actually knows if they are good or bad - some might, but more than likely, you will get one that someone else had trouble with. Buy one from a reputable phono guy like George Vollema in Michigan or Ron Sitko, its worth it. Even if you buy the stylus mounted on a needle bar - those reproducers are a pain to rebuild, especially removing and replacing the needle bar and trying not to break the little string that connects it... It takes a punch the size of a blunt needle to remove the pin, which is also rounded on the end and since they have been in there almost 100 yrs., they can be very aggravating. All in all, if you don't need more stress in your life, buy a rebuilt one from someone who knows how to do it - a jeweler most likely will not. Curt > From: kb...@charter.net > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 18:19:58 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > Curt, > Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was > considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications > of the actual diamond point. The repair cost seems rather high in > comparison of the whole reproducer. > Thanks, > Ken B. > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On > Behalf Of Vinyl Visions > Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 4:22 PM > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > A new one is $80 to $100 on a new stylus bar, last time I checked - might > have gone up a little since then. You can probably get one from Ron Sitko. > If a jeweler could set one it would probably cost that much or more and if > your diamond fell out and you have it, it may have been damaged... > Curt > > > > From: kb...@charter.net > > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:17:50 -0500 > > Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > > > Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for > > the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler > could > > set? I have heard some pretty high prices for stylus bar repairs and was > > just wondering if a repair could be done at a local jeweler. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ken Brekke > > > > ___ > > Phono-L mailing list > > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
Curt, Thanks for the response. I saw those kind of prices out there. I was considering checking with a local jeweler if I could find the specifications of the actual diamond point. The repair cost seems rather high in comparison of the whole reproducer. Thanks, Ken B. -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Vinyl Visions Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 4:22 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair A new one is $80 to $100 on a new stylus bar, last time I checked - might have gone up a little since then. You can probably get one from Ron Sitko. If a jeweler could set one it would probably cost that much or more and if your diamond fell out and you have it, it may have been damaged... Curt > From: kb...@charter.net > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:17:50 -0500 > Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for > the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler could > set? I have heard some pretty high prices for stylus bar repairs and was > just wondering if a repair could be done at a local jeweler. > > > > Thanks, > > Ken Brekke > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
[Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID
Dear Members: I have a Columbia floor model phonograph that I cannot identify. It has short legs, two doors in front with 4- pivot out record wooden boxes with knobs, a drawer under the record boxes, and two horizontal slats for the volume control. Also unusual is that the motorboard under the lid is raised with radiused edges and corners. All the controls are obviously Columbia as is the arm/reproducer. I have a picture I can send you upon request to help with I.D. Thanks, GrnMountainBill ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID
Ron: Should I send you a picture? GrnMountainBill On Sat, Mar 19, 2011 at 3:49 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: > Possibly a 150? > > Ron L > > -Original Message- > From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] > On > Behalf Of William Zucca > Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 3:32 PM > To: Antique Phonograph List > Subject: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID > > Dear Members: I have a Columbia floor model phonograph that I cannot > identify. It has short legs, two doors in front with 4- pivot out record > wooden boxes with knobs, a drawer under the record boxes, and two > horizontal > slats for the volume control. Also unusual is that the motorboard under > the > lid is raised with radiused edges and corners. All the controls are > obviously Columbia as is the arm/reproducer. > > I have a picture I can send you upon request to help with I.D. > > Thanks, > GrnMountainBill > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org > ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
A new one is $80 to $100 on a new stylus bar, last time I checked - might have gone up a little since then. You can probably get one from Ron Sitko. If a jeweler could set one it would probably cost that much or more and if your diamond fell out and you have it, it may have been damaged... Curt > From: kb...@charter.net > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org > Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:17:50 -0500 > Subject: [Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair > > Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for > the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler could > set? I have heard some pretty high prices for stylus bar repairs and was > just wondering if a repair could be done at a local jeweler. > > > > Thanks, > > Ken Brekke > > ___ > Phono-L mailing list > http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID
Possibly a 150? Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of William Zucca Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2011 3:32 PM To: Antique Phonograph List Subject: [Phono-L] Help with Columbia phono ID Dear Members: I have a Columbia floor model phonograph that I cannot identify. It has short legs, two doors in front with 4- pivot out record wooden boxes with knobs, a drawer under the record boxes, and two horizontal slats for the volume control. Also unusual is that the motorboard under the lid is raised with radiused edges and corners. All the controls are obviously Columbia as is the arm/reproducer. I have a picture I can send you upon request to help with I.D. Thanks, GrnMountainBill ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
[Phono-L] Diamond Disk stylus repair
Does anyone on this list know the specifications for the diamond point for the Edison diamond disk reproducers? Is this something that a jeweler could set? I have heard some pretty high prices for stylus bar repairs and was just wondering if a repair could be done at a local jeweler. Thanks, Ken Brekke ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Jim's C-2s / Spamblocker
Dear Bruce, It took me a while to reply to your query. I have put your "E-mail" address into my computer's "Address Book" so there ought to be no further difficulty in your messages reaching me.If so, let me know. Thanks & All good wishes... Very truly yours, Jim Cartwright IMMORTAL PERFORMANCES, INC "Austins Eclectic Used Record Store Since 1971" 1404 West 30th StreetAustin, Texas 78703-1402 USA (512) 478-9954E-mail: jim...@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: Bruce Mercer > To: Antique Phonograph List > Date: 19-Mar-2011 11:37:42 AM > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Jim's C-2s / Spamblocker > > Jim, sorry, I cannot get past your spam blocker. > > > - Original Message - > From: "Bruce Mercer" > To: "Antique Phonograph List" > Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 10:01 PM > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols > > > > Jim, > > it doesn't sound like the pickup is the issue, although George Epple is > > the person to contact regarding these early types of "horseshoe pickups". > > It's possible that you have speaker issues that are fixable. The Peerless > > used a single wound voice coil as opposed to other speaker designs that > > used thousands of turns of #20 gauge copper wire in the voice coil. The > > speakers must have absolutely clean and tightened contacts or the work > > poorly. I rebuilt my R-1, R-2, C-1, and C-2 myself except for the pickup. > > These were the four radios or combinations that came out in 1928. Later > > models used a Magnovox speaker of more conventional design (green > > chassis). I like the Peerless speaker because of the very high quality and > > the unique but can be troublesome design. The overall chassis builds > > (copper color) are extremely high quality with the Jr chassis in all but > > the C-1 which has the Sr chassis. I'm curious to know which model radio > > you are using to play the pickup through. Since it is an R-1 or R-2 and > > has the Peerless speaker, I would unplug the radio speaker and plug into > > the C-2 speaker. Subbing out the speakers will tell you right away if you > > are having speaker problems. If not, the problem lies in the chassis > > itself. I'm going to contact you off list to find out more about why or > > how they do not play well. > > Once everything IS up to par the set can be fine tuned to get rid of > > other sound issues by adding proper damping to the amp, speaker, arm, and > > motorboard. Also, there is a "sweet spot" in positioning the speaker front > > to back to eliminate any boom. Properly restored, those C-2s should sound > > awesome. I use the C-2 as much as I do the C-1 because it's easier to load > > unless I want the added power of the super amp and two speakers in the > > C-1. > > > > Bruce > > > > (btw) the pickup should track at five ounces. > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: > > To: "Antique Phonograph List" > > Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 2:59 PM > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols > > > > > >> Right now my C-2 plays through an Edison radio using the same chassis & > >> loudspeaker as the C-2 & yes I had the restorer make the filter > >> switchable > >> & do not use it on Diamond Discs.Both of my C-2s have been "restored" > >> but do not play well. Can you all recommend someone who really knows > >> how > >> to work on them? (I have a 3rd, but the restorer kept its chassis which > >> was incomplete & I've been uable to get him to return it.)Through the > >> Edison Radio using the C-2 turntable & pickup, Diamond Discs sound great! > >> > >> Jim Cartwright > >> IMMORTAL PERFORMANCES, INC > >> "Austin's Eclectic Used Record Store Since 1971" > >> 1404 West 30th StreetAustin, Texas 78703-1402 USA > >> (512) 478-9954E-mail: jim...@earthlink.net > >> > >> > >>> [Original Message] > >>> From: Bruce Mercer > >>> To: Antique Phonograph List > >>> Date: 17-Mar-2011 2:05:11 PM > >>> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols > >>> > >>> Thanks for that information and the matrix number. Both my C-1 and C-2 > >> have > >>> the same speed control knobs. It should be an easy thing to dial back > >>> the > >>> speed indicator on the marked backplate for those late DD and Needle > >>> Cuts > >> to > >>> obtain an accurate 78rpm. I notice in the factory manual that they > >>> recommended setting it at a comprimise of 79 rpm if primarily playing > >>> DD. > >> I > >>> doubt the average consumer of the day couldn't tell the difference one > >> way > >>> or the other. > >>> While on the subject of these machines, I'd like to know if anyone else > >>> that has a C-1 or > >>> C-2 switches OUT the filter. It vastly overfilters the DD on either > >> machine. > >>> I rarely switch it IN. > >>> Bruce > >>> > >>> > >>> - Original Message - > >>> From: "Philip Carli" > >>> To: "Antique Phonograph List" > >>> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 10:38 AM > >>> Subj
Re: [Phono-L] Jim's C-2s / Spamblocker
Jim, sorry, I cannot get past your spam blocker. - Original Message - From: "Bruce Mercer" To: "Antique Phonograph List" Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 10:01 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols Jim, it doesn't sound like the pickup is the issue, although George Epple is the person to contact regarding these early types of "horseshoe pickups". It's possible that you have speaker issues that are fixable. The Peerless used a single wound voice coil as opposed to other speaker designs that used thousands of turns of #20 gauge copper wire in the voice coil. The speakers must have absolutely clean and tightened contacts or the work poorly. I rebuilt my R-1, R-2, C-1, and C-2 myself except for the pickup. These were the four radios or combinations that came out in 1928. Later models used a Magnovox speaker of more conventional design (green chassis). I like the Peerless speaker because of the very high quality and the unique but can be troublesome design. The overall chassis builds (copper color) are extremely high quality with the Jr chassis in all but the C-1 which has the Sr chassis. I'm curious to know which model radio you are using to play the pickup through. Since it is an R-1 or R-2 and has the Peerless speaker, I would unplug the radio speaker and plug into the C-2 speaker. Subbing out the speakers will tell you right away if you are having speaker problems. If not, the problem lies in the chassis itself. I'm going to contact you off list to find out more about why or how they do not play well. Once everything IS up to par the set can be fine tuned to get rid of other sound issues by adding proper damping to the amp, speaker, arm, and motorboard. Also, there is a "sweet spot" in positioning the speaker front to back to eliminate any boom. Properly restored, those C-2s should sound awesome. I use the C-2 as much as I do the C-1 because it's easier to load unless I want the added power of the super amp and two speakers in the C-1. Bruce (btw) the pickup should track at five ounces. - Original Message - From: To: "Antique Phonograph List" Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols Right now my C-2 plays through an Edison radio using the same chassis & loudspeaker as the C-2 & yes I had the restorer make the filter switchable & do not use it on Diamond Discs.Both of my C-2s have been "restored" but do not play well. Can you all recommend someone who really knows how to work on them? (I have a 3rd, but the restorer kept its chassis which was incomplete & I've been uable to get him to return it.)Through the Edison Radio using the C-2 turntable & pickup, Diamond Discs sound great! Jim Cartwright IMMORTAL PERFORMANCES, INC "Austin's Eclectic Used Record Store Since 1971" 1404 West 30th StreetAustin, Texas 78703-1402 USA (512) 478-9954E-mail: jim...@earthlink.net [Original Message] From: Bruce Mercer To: Antique Phonograph List Date: 17-Mar-2011 2:05:11 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols Thanks for that information and the matrix number. Both my C-1 and C-2 have the same speed control knobs. It should be an easy thing to dial back the speed indicator on the marked backplate for those late DD and Needle Cuts to obtain an accurate 78rpm. I notice in the factory manual that they recommended setting it at a comprimise of 79 rpm if primarily playing DD. I doubt the average consumer of the day couldn't tell the difference one way or the other. While on the subject of these machines, I'd like to know if anyone else that has a C-1 or C-2 switches OUT the filter. It vastly overfilters the DD on either machine. I rarely switch it IN. Bruce - Original Message - From: "Philip Carli" To: "Antique Phonograph List" Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 10:38 AM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols Possibly for new owners of the C-1 and C-2 Edison radio/phonographs, which were capable of playing both lateral and vertical records by just flipping the stylus? -- one less step for new Edison owners to consider? -- And how late are we talking on Diamond Discs being at 78? The Goldman Band discs in the 52630s play at pitch at 80? I have 52650,a Frankie Marvin disc, but I haven't played it in a long time -- might check it -- Philip From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Bill Taney [b...@taney.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 9:33 AM To: phonol...@yahoogroups.com; Phono-l Subject: Re: [Phono-L] [phonolist] 5700 series Blue Amberols Why did they record the final diamond disc's at 78RPM? Seems rather odd decision since existing owners would have to adjust the speed of their machines for these records then adjust back for any of the previous 15 yr + worth of records. Bill From: St
