Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread Rick Mazur
If you're looking to get your idler wheel refurbished I recommned Phono Ed- Ed 
Crockett. He re-surfaced an idler wheel for me several years ago and did a bang 
up job. Here is a link to his website:  http://vintagelectronics.com/index.htm



-Original Message-
From: Ron L'Herault 
To: 'Antique Phonograph List' 
Sent: Sun, Sep 2, 2012 11:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?


And if it has an idler wheel between the motor's rotating shaft and the
urntable edge, its actual size is not critical.  You can substitute a
ubber O ring.  However, a little internet searching will turn up places
hat will replace the idler's rubber with new to the same size as original.

on L
-Original Message-
rom: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On
ehalf Of Andrew Baron
ent: Sunday, September 02, 2012 8:08 PM
o: Antique Phonograph List
ubject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?
You're welcome Edward.
The rubber idler wheel can sometimes be reconditioned -softened and
urface-dressed with a chemical.  If it has a notable flat spot (from
ecades resting against the inside of the turntable rim under tension), it
ill need to be replaced.  When these get hard it transfers all kinds of
oise to the platter which then acts like a diaphragm to magnify the noise.
he motor board, if the motor is bolted directly to it, then acts like a
ound board, further amplifying the rattle.
The original stylus might have been a metal alloy.  One such was called
Osmium", which would give more plays than an ordinary steel needle.  It
ould also have been a jewel-tipped metal shank.
Electric Admirals from that era with no radio are pretty rare.  
The repairs are pretty straightforward.  Best of luck, Andrew
On Sep 2, 2012, at 5:42 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:
> Andrew,
 
 Thank You for taking the time to respond as you did, with all that 
 helpful information!  I guessed aright that if the symptoms were 
 described, someone who knows them would indicate a prognosis.  I think 
 that since these machines are fairly rare, and yet when working 
 properly play records with a lovely, iconic sound, they should be 
 restored.  They're easier on the old records than a Victrola, also, if 
 you like to play them a lot, as I do.  I  have a great GE phonograph, 
 with an AM radio, that I would estimate to have been available in the 
 40s, extrapolating from your description of this  Admir al.
 
 The original stylus must be gone.  I got it with a standard steel  
 needle in it.  And yes, the garbled music was from the record.  There  
 is no radio with this unit, it only plays records.
 
 I'll wait and see if anyone in the area responds, but appreciate your 
 making yourself available.  I used to know someone in the antique 
 radio  club that came down to the Salem, Sounds of Nostalgia show, but
t's been  awhile.
 I've lost touch.   It would be nice to know  who's doing this now.
 
 All the Best,
 
 : )
 
 Edward
 
 
 
 In a message dated 9/2/2012 3:01:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
 a...@popyrus.com writes:
 
 Hi  Edward ~
 
 Your Admiral is more likely late pre-war; ca. 1939 to 42, or  early 
 post-war; ca. 1946-1947.
 
 The symptoms you describe are typical of  this technology when it 
 ages, and
 are:
 Hardened rubber on the idler wheel  (turntable noise);
 
 Dead electrolytic capacitors, two to three of these  will be found in 
 need of replacement (loud hum and garbled sound).  This  is a job for 
 a soldering iron, and the correct types and polarity will be  needed.  
 These are available.
 
 If when you say "the music sounds  garbled" you mean music from a 
 record and not from a built-in radio, then it's  a small miracle that 
 your crystal cartridge might actually be good.  99%  of these are 
 found dead or substantially diminished in unrestored phonographs  of this
ra.
 
 The fact that there's a set screw for the stylus indicates  that yours 
 still has the crystal cartridge.  These can be rebuilt with a  new 
 element if needed (some of the distortion can be from the cartridge), 
 or  replaced with a more reliable type of cartridge and stylus.
 
 The unit  may need some other minor work.  Usually motor bearings, 
 idler wheel  arbor & bushings and platter bearings need de-gumming and 
 new lubrication,  and if it has a changer, these usually need some 
 attention as well.  On the electronic side, the power cord may be 
 brittle if it's original and certain of the "paper" capacitors will 
 likely benefit from replacement as these get electrically leaky and can
lso contribute to distortion.
 
 I  don't know who in Portland works on antique radios, but I know you 
 can find  someone through the radio collector community out there or a
useum.
 If  that fails I restore these types of items but you would incur 
 shipping charges  in addition to the usual parts and labor.
 
 Good luck with  this.
 
 Andrew Baron
 Santa Fe
 
 On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM,  

Re: [Phono-L] early electric phono repair man? SAFETY comments

2012-09-02 Thread clockworkhome


Greetings Edward:

I do all my own restorations.  When it comes to anything electronic, the first 
thing you need to know is the model number and serial number.  From that you 
can get to step 2, finding a schematic diagram.  I would recommend Peter Wall 
in San Francisco but he is a long way from you.  There must be someone in your 
area who will do the restoration but likely any professional will charge a 
hefty fee.  The model and serial are likely put on the back of the cabinet or 
on a plaque attached to the radio or amplifier chassis.

Andrew is quite correct about the capacitors being dead.  The speakers of that 
era used the field coil for a choke (inductor) to smooth out the rectified DC 
in the power supply so when the caps are dead you get 60Hz hum coming from the 
speaker.

You really should never apply full operating current to any old TV or Radio 
that hasn't worked in years.  Bad things can happen quickly to delicate 
components.

Shops specializing in old electronics often have Photofacts or Wiley's service 
bulletins.  Again this starts with the model number.

Lastly, don't go poking around when the unit is powered up.  Some units like my 
Edison C2 have HOT potentiometer shafts.  I can tell you that to have a few 
hundred volts surge through your body is no fun.  These old units are best 
safely brought up in line voltage slowly with a variac and made more safe with 
an isolation transformer.

Regards,

Al




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Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread Ron L'Herault
And if it has an idler wheel between the motor's rotating shaft and the
turntable edge, its actual size is not critical.  You can substitute a
rubber O ring.  However, a little internet searching will turn up places
that will replace the idler's rubber with new to the same size as original.


Ron L

-Original Message-
From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On
Behalf Of Andrew Baron
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2012 8:08 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

You're welcome Edward.

The rubber idler wheel can sometimes be reconditioned -softened and
surface-dressed with a chemical.  If it has a notable flat spot (from
decades resting against the inside of the turntable rim under tension), it
will need to be replaced.  When these get hard it transfers all kinds of
noise to the platter which then acts like a diaphragm to magnify the noise.
The motor board, if the motor is bolted directly to it, then acts like a
sound board, further amplifying the rattle.

The original stylus might have been a metal alloy.  One such was called
"Osmium", which would give more plays than an ordinary steel needle.  It
could also have been a jewel-tipped metal shank.

Electric Admirals from that era with no radio are pretty rare.  

The repairs are pretty straightforward.  Best of luck, Andrew

On Sep 2, 2012, at 5:42 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:

> Andrew,
> 
> Thank You for taking the time to respond as you did, with all that 
> helpful information!  I guessed aright that if the symptoms were 
> described, someone who knows them would indicate a prognosis.  I think 
> that since these machines are fairly rare, and yet when working 
> properly play records with a lovely, iconic sound, they should be 
> restored.  They're easier on the old records than a Victrola, also, if 
> you like to play them a lot, as I do.  I  have a great GE phonograph, 
> with an AM radio, that I would estimate to have been available in the 
> 40s, extrapolating from your description of this  Admir al.
> 
> The original stylus must be gone.  I got it with a standard steel  
> needle in it.  And yes, the garbled music was from the record.  There  
> is no radio with this unit, it only plays records.
> 
> I'll wait and see if anyone in the area responds, but appreciate your 
> making yourself available.  I used to know someone in the antique 
> radio  club that came down to the Salem, Sounds of Nostalgia show, but
it's been  awhile.
> I've lost touch.   It would be nice to know  who's doing this now.
> 
> All the Best,
> 
> : )
> 
> Edward
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 9/2/2012 3:01:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
> a...@popyrus.com writes:
> 
> Hi  Edward ~
> 
> Your Admiral is more likely late pre-war; ca. 1939 to 42, or  early 
> post-war; ca. 1946-1947.
> 
> The symptoms you describe are typical of  this technology when it 
> ages, and
> are:
> Hardened rubber on the idler wheel  (turntable noise);
> 
> Dead electrolytic capacitors, two to three of these  will be found in 
> need of replacement (loud hum and garbled sound).  This  is a job for 
> a soldering iron, and the correct types and polarity will be  needed.  
> These are available.
> 
> If when you say "the music sounds  garbled" you mean music from a 
> record and not from a built-in radio, then it's  a small miracle that 
> your crystal cartridge might actually be good.  99%  of these are 
> found dead or substantially diminished in unrestored phonographs  of this
era.
> 
> The fact that there's a set screw for the stylus indicates  that yours 
> still has the crystal cartridge.  These can be rebuilt with a  new 
> element if needed (some of the distortion can be from the cartridge), 
> or  replaced with a more reliable type of cartridge and stylus.
> 
> The unit  may need some other minor work.  Usually motor bearings, 
> idler wheel  arbor & bushings and platter bearings need de-gumming and 
> new lubrication,  and if it has a changer, these usually need some 
> attention as well.  On the electronic side, the power cord may be 
> brittle if it's original and certain of the "paper" capacitors will 
> likely benefit from replacement as these get electrically leaky and can
also contribute to distortion.
> 
> I  don't know who in Portland works on antique radios, but I know you 
> can find  someone through the radio collector community out there or a
museum.
> If  that fails I restore these types of items but you would incur 
> shipping charges  in addition to the usual parts and labor.
> 
> Good luck with  this.
> 
> Andrew Baron
> Santa Fe
> 
> On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM,  keeper...@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,
>> 
>> Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered,  
>> 78-player, hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have  an 
>> Admiral  tabletop
> that's
>> likely from the 1930s.  It has  some interesting Art Deco  features, 
>> and
> has a
>> thumb s

Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread Andrew Baron
You're welcome Edward.

The rubber idler wheel can sometimes be reconditioned -softened and 
surface-dressed with a chemical.  If it has a notable flat spot (from decades 
resting against the inside of the turntable rim under tension), it will need to 
be replaced.  When these get hard it transfers all kinds of noise to the 
platter which then acts like a diaphragm to magnify the noise.  The motor 
board, if the motor is bolted directly to it, then acts like a sound board, 
further amplifying the rattle.

The original stylus might have been a metal alloy.  One such was called 
"Osmium", which would give more plays than an ordinary steel needle.  It could 
also have been a jewel-tipped metal shank.

Electric Admirals from that era with no radio are pretty rare.  

The repairs are pretty straightforward.  Best of luck,
Andrew

On Sep 2, 2012, at 5:42 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:

> Andrew,
> 
> Thank You for taking the time to respond as you did, with all that helpful  
> information!  I guessed aright that if the symptoms were described, someone 
> who knows them would indicate a prognosis.  I think that since these  
> machines are fairly rare, and yet when working properly play records with a  
> lovely, iconic sound, they should be restored.  They're easier on the old  
> records than a Victrola, also, if you like to play them a lot, as I do.  I  
> have 
> a great GE phonograph, with an AM radio, that I would estimate to have  
> been available in the 40s, extrapolating from your description of this  Admir
> al.  
> 
> The original stylus must be gone.  I got it with a standard steel  needle 
> in it.  And yes, the garbled music was from the record.  There  is no radio 
> with this unit, it only plays records.
> 
> I'll wait and see if anyone in the area responds, but appreciate your  
> making yourself available.  I used to know someone in the antique radio  club 
> that came down to the Salem, Sounds of Nostalgia show, but it's been  awhile. 
>  
> I've lost touch.   It would be nice to know  who's doing this now.
> 
> All the Best,
> 
> : )
> 
> Edward
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 9/2/2012 3:01:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
> a...@popyrus.com writes:
> 
> Hi  Edward ~
> 
> Your Admiral is more likely late pre-war; ca. 1939 to 42, or  early 
> post-war; ca. 1946-1947.
> 
> The symptoms you describe are typical of  this technology when it ages, and 
> are:
> Hardened rubber on the idler wheel  (turntable noise);
> 
> Dead electrolytic capacitors, two to three of these  will be found in need 
> of replacement (loud hum and garbled sound).  This  is a job for a soldering 
> iron, and the correct types and polarity will be  needed.  These are 
> available.
> 
> If when you say "the music sounds  garbled" you mean music from a record 
> and not from a built-in radio, then it's  a small miracle that your crystal 
> cartridge might actually be good.  99%  of these are found dead or 
> substantially diminished in unrestored phonographs  of this era.
> 
> The fact that there's a set screw for the stylus indicates  that yours 
> still has the crystal cartridge.  These can be rebuilt with a  new element if 
> needed (some of the distortion can be from the cartridge), or  replaced with 
> a 
> more reliable type of cartridge and stylus.
> 
> The unit  may need some other minor work.  Usually motor bearings, idler 
> wheel  arbor & bushings and platter bearings need de-gumming and new 
> lubrication,  and if it has a changer, these usually need some attention as 
> well.  On 
> the electronic side, the power cord may be brittle if it's original and  
> certain of the "paper" capacitors will likely benefit from replacement as  
> these get electrically leaky and can also contribute to distortion.
> 
> I  don't know who in Portland works on antique radios, but I know you can 
> find  someone through the radio collector community out there or a museum.  
> If  that fails I restore these types of items but you would incur shipping 
> charges  in addition to the usual parts and labor.
> 
> Good luck with  this.
> 
> Andrew Baron
> Santa Fe
> 
> On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM,  keeper...@aol.com wrote:
> 
>> Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,
>> 
>> Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered,  78-player,  
>> hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have  an Admiral  tabletop 
> that's 
>> likely from the 1930s.  It has  some interesting Art Deco  features, and 
> has a 
>> thumb screw at  the head of the tone arm for changing  needles.  The 
> turntable  
>> makes enough noise to stampede the  cattle, and when the tubes  warm up 
> it 
>> hums very loudly, and I fear it will  frighten the  peasants who have no 
> way of 
>> appreciating what manner of  sinister  experiments are going on here.  
> Also, 
>> the music  sounds garbled.  I  suspect it has an electrical short going 
> on  
>> but this isn't something I know  a lot about, but I don't want  to awaken 
> my 
>> creation prematurely, or burn our  cas

Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread KEEPERH2O
Andrew,
 
Thank You for taking the time to respond as you did, with all that helpful  
information!  I guessed aright that if the symptoms were described, someone 
 who knows them would indicate a prognosis.  I think that since these  
machines are fairly rare, and yet when working properly play records with a  
lovely, iconic sound, they should be restored.  They're easier on the old  
records than a Victrola, also, if you like to play them a lot, as I do.  I  
have 
a great GE phonograph, with an AM radio, that I would estimate to have  
been available in the 40s, extrapolating from your description of this  Admir
al.  
 
The original stylus must be gone.  I got it with a standard steel  needle 
in it.  And yes, the garbled music was from the record.  There  is no radio 
with this unit, it only plays records.
 
I'll wait and see if anyone in the area responds, but appreciate your  
making yourself available.  I used to know someone in the antique radio  club 
that came down to the Salem, Sounds of Nostalgia show, but it's been  awhile.  
I've lost touch.   It would be nice to know  who's doing this now.
 
All the Best,
 
: )
 
Edward
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/2/2012 3:01:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
a...@popyrus.com writes:

Hi  Edward ~

Your Admiral is more likely late pre-war; ca. 1939 to 42, or  early 
post-war; ca. 1946-1947.

The symptoms you describe are typical of  this technology when it ages, and 
are:
Hardened rubber on the idler wheel  (turntable noise);

Dead electrolytic capacitors, two to three of these  will be found in need 
of replacement (loud hum and garbled sound).  This  is a job for a soldering 
iron, and the correct types and polarity will be  needed.  These are 
available.

If when you say "the music sounds  garbled" you mean music from a record 
and not from a built-in radio, then it's  a small miracle that your crystal 
cartridge might actually be good.  99%  of these are found dead or 
substantially diminished in unrestored phonographs  of this era.

The fact that there's a set screw for the stylus indicates  that yours 
still has the crystal cartridge.  These can be rebuilt with a  new element if 
needed (some of the distortion can be from the cartridge), or  replaced with a 
more reliable type of cartridge and stylus.

The unit  may need some other minor work.  Usually motor bearings, idler 
wheel  arbor & bushings and platter bearings need de-gumming and new 
lubrication,  and if it has a changer, these usually need some attention as 
well.  On 
 the electronic side, the power cord may be brittle if it's original and  
certain of the "paper" capacitors will likely benefit from replacement as  
these get electrically leaky and can also contribute to distortion.

I  don't know who in Portland works on antique radios, but I know you can 
find  someone through the radio collector community out there or a museum.  
If  that fails I restore these types of items but you would incur shipping 
charges  in addition to the usual parts and labor.

Good luck with  this.

Andrew Baron
Santa Fe

On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM,  keeper...@aol.com wrote:

> Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,
>  
> Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered,  78-player,  
> hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have  an Admiral  tabletop 
that's 
> likely from the 1930s.  It has  some interesting Art Deco  features, and 
has a 
> thumb screw at  the head of the tone arm for changing  needles.  The 
turntable  
> makes enough noise to stampede the  cattle, and when the tubes  warm up 
it 
> hums very loudly, and I fear it will  frighten the  peasants who have no 
way of 
> appreciating what manner of  sinister  experiments are going on here.  
Also, 
> the music  sounds garbled.  I  suspect it has an electrical short going 
on  
> but this isn't something I know  a lot about, but I don't want  to awaken 
my 
> creation prematurely, or burn our  castle  down.
> 
> Anyway, if you know somebody, possibly an antique radio  man, I'll call  
him 
> or her forthwith.
> 
> Many  Thanks,
> 
> : )
> 
> Edward
>  ___
> Phono-L mailing  list
> http://phono-l.org
>  

___
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Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread Rich
You need to re-cap the amp. Look through the old classifieds here 
http://www.antiqueradio.com/ for someone in your area doing radio 
restoration.


On 09/02/2012 03:26 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:

Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,

Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered, 78-player,
hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have an Admiral  tabletop that's
likely from the 1930s.  It has some interesting Art Deco  features, and has a
thumb screw at the head of the tone arm for changing  needles.  The turntable
makes enough noise to stampede the  cattle, and when the tubes warm up it
hums very loudly, and I fear it will  frighten the peasants who have no way of
appreciating what manner of sinister  experiments are going on here.  Also,
the music sounds garbled.  I  suspect it has an electrical short going on
but this isn't something I know  a lot about, but I don't want to awaken my
creation prematurely, or burn our  castle down.

Anyway, if you know somebody, possibly an antique radio man, I'll call  him
or her forthwith.

Many Thanks,

: )

Edward
___
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Re: [Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread Andrew Baron
Hi Edward ~

Your Admiral is more likely late pre-war; ca. 1939 to 42, or early post-war; 
ca. 1946-1947.

The symptoms you describe are typical of this technology when it ages, and are:
Hardened rubber on the idler wheel (turntable noise);

Dead electrolytic capacitors, two to three of these will be found in need of 
replacement (loud hum and garbled sound).  This is a job for a soldering iron, 
and the correct types and polarity will be needed.  These are available.

If when you say "the music sounds garbled" you mean music from a record and not 
from a built-in radio, then it's a small miracle that your crystal cartridge 
might actually be good.  99% of these are found dead or substantially 
diminished in unrestored phonographs of this era.

The fact that there's a set screw for the stylus indicates that yours still has 
the crystal cartridge.  These can be rebuilt with a new element if needed (some 
of the distortion can be from the cartridge), or replaced with a more reliable 
type of cartridge and stylus.

The unit may need some other minor work.  Usually motor bearings, idler wheel 
arbor & bushings and platter bearings need de-gumming and new lubrication, and 
if it has a changer, these usually need some attention as well.  On the 
electronic side, the power cord may be brittle if it's original and certain of 
the "paper" capacitors will likely benefit from replacement as these get 
electrically leaky and can also contribute to distortion.

I don't know who in Portland works on antique radios, but I know you can find 
someone through the radio collector community out there or a museum.  If that 
fails I restore these types of items but you would incur shipping charges in 
addition to the usual parts and labor.

Good luck with this.

Andrew Baron
Santa Fe

On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:26 PM, keeper...@aol.com wrote:

> Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,
> 
> Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered, 78-player,  
> hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have an Admiral  tabletop that's 
> likely from the 1930s.  It has some interesting Art Deco  features, and has a 
> thumb screw at the head of the tone arm for changing  needles.  The turntable 
> makes enough noise to stampede the  cattle, and when the tubes warm up it 
> hums very loudly, and I fear it will  frighten the peasants who have no way 
> of 
> appreciating what manner of sinister  experiments are going on here.  Also, 
> the music sounds garbled.  I  suspect it has an electrical short going on 
> but this isn't something I know  a lot about, but I don't want to awaken my 
> creation prematurely, or burn our  castle down.
> 
> Anyway, if you know somebody, possibly an antique radio man, I'll call  him 
> or her forthwith.
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> : )
> 
> Edward
> ___
> Phono-L mailing list
> http://phono-l.org
> 

___
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Re: [Phono-L] Old time dealers

2012-09-02 Thread David Dazer
What a difference between Frick and Miller.  Miller sold NOS and original parts 
while Frick sold such horrible crap.  His peach can horns are a great example 
of that.
Dave

--- On Sun, 9/2/12, Steven Medved  wrote:


From: Steven Medved 
Subject: [Phono-L] Old time dealers
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Date: Sunday, September 2, 2012, 3:02 PM



I dealt with Gene Ballard who was a skilled machinist and wonderful to deal 
with.  I remember Frick and Miller. Steve
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> From: zonophone2...@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 10:13:43 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...
> 
> What a name from the past   
> i have not heard of karl frick in years
> i mostly bought back then from neuwman miller
> and al just wondered what ever happened to your clock work home
> did you sell it to the oliphants
> thanks for all you and george did on edison
> zono
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: clockworkhome 
> To: phono-l 
> Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2012 5:28 pm
> Subject: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...
> 
> 
> 
> I humbly say thank you to those who sent me a compliment.
> 
> This week on eBay there were several reasons why I wrote my Master Thesis on 
> Edison machines then worked with George Frow to do the book.
> 
> Item 1 was a rare 200 thread per inch feedscrew and record mandrel from an M 
> electric that allowed it to play Amberol records ! ! !   This seller doesn't 
> know that even Edison could not make that work so a planetary gear was used 
> on 
> the 100 TPI feedscrew for the 200 TPI records.  But since he pulled the 
> mandrel 
> and feedscrew off of an M and the threads looked more fine to his eyes that 
> is 
> what ended up in the listing.  It's an M mandrel ! ! !
> 
> Item 2 was a rare two piece Fireside Horn reproduction.  This is one of the 
> peach can Bondo Frick's Freaks horns.  I am surprised it hasn't come apart so 
> someone had to take good care of it for the last 50 years.  Karl cut out the 
> screw caps from cooking oil cans to make the screw connection between the two 
> pieces of the horn.  The caps were rather narrow to the horn is slim until 
> after 
> the connection then the 'bloom' on the bell is rapid.  Viewed from the side 
> it 
> just looks odd at best.
> 
> Item 3 is a Standard with a broken reproducer limit pin and broken stylus bar 
> diaphragm link.  I contacted the seller and was told, "Every thing is there 
> and 
> it all works!"
> 
> I guess I must be like Don Quixote jousting with windmills.
> 
> Best wishes everyone,
> 
> Al
> 
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>  
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[Phono-L] Anyone know an early electric phono repair man?

2012-09-02 Thread KEEPERH2O
Greetings Phellow Fonoteers,
 
Can anyone recommend a repair man for an electric-powered, 78-player,  
hopefully in the Portland, Oregon area?  I have an Admiral  tabletop that's 
likely from the 1930s.  It has some interesting Art Deco  features, and has a 
thumb screw at the head of the tone arm for changing  needles.  The turntable 
makes enough noise to stampede the  cattle, and when the tubes warm up it 
hums very loudly, and I fear it will  frighten the peasants who have no way of 
appreciating what manner of sinister  experiments are going on here.  Also, 
the music sounds garbled.  I  suspect it has an electrical short going on 
but this isn't something I know  a lot about, but I don't want to awaken my 
creation prematurely, or burn our  castle down.
 
Anyway, if you know somebody, possibly an antique radio man, I'll call  him 
or her forthwith.
 
Many Thanks,
 
: )
 
Edward
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[Phono-L] Old time dealers

2012-09-02 Thread Steven Medved

I dealt with Gene Ballard who was a skilled machinist and wonderful to deal 
with.  I remember Frick and Miller. Steve
 > To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> From: zonophone2...@aol.com
> Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 10:13:43 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...
> 
> What a name from the past   
> i have not heard of karl frick in years
> i mostly bought back then from neuwman miller
> and al just wondered what ever happened to your clock work home
> did you sell it to the oliphants
> thanks for all you and george did on edison
> zono
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: clockworkhome 
> To: phono-l 
> Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2012 5:28 pm
> Subject: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...
> 
> 
> 
> I humbly say thank you to those who sent me a compliment.
> 
> This week on eBay there were several reasons why I wrote my Master Thesis on 
> Edison machines then worked with George Frow to do the book.
> 
> Item 1 was a rare 200 thread per inch feedscrew and record mandrel from an M 
> electric that allowed it to play Amberol records ! ! !   This seller doesn't 
> know that even Edison could not make that work so a planetary gear was used 
> on 
> the 100 TPI feedscrew for the 200 TPI records.  But since he pulled the 
> mandrel 
> and feedscrew off of an M and the threads looked more fine to his eyes that 
> is 
> what ended up in the listing.  It's an M mandrel ! ! !
> 
> Item 2 was a rare two piece Fireside Horn reproduction.  This is one of the 
> peach can Bondo Frick's Freaks horns.  I am surprised it hasn't come apart so 
> someone had to take good care of it for the last 50 years.  Karl cut out the 
> screw caps from cooking oil cans to make the screw connection between the two 
> pieces of the horn.  The caps were rather narrow to the horn is slim until 
> after 
> the connection then the 'bloom' on the bell is rapid.  Viewed from the side 
> it 
> just looks odd at best.
> 
> Item 3 is a Standard with a broken reproducer limit pin and broken stylus bar 
> diaphragm link.  I contacted the seller and was told, "Every thing is there 
> and 
> it all works!"
> 
> I guess I must be like Don Quixote jousting with windmills.
> 
> Best wishes everyone,
> 
> Al
> 
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> Phono-L mailing list
> http://phono-l.org
> 
>  
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Re: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...

2012-09-02 Thread zonophone2006
What a name from the past   
i have not heard of karl frick in years
i mostly bought back then from neuwman miller
and al just wondered what ever happened to your clock work home
did you sell it to the oliphants
thanks for all you and george did on edison
zono



-Original Message-
From: clockworkhome 
To: phono-l 
Sent: Sat, Sep 1, 2012 5:28 pm
Subject: [Phono-L] Thank you and this week on eBay...



I humbly say thank you to those who sent me a compliment.

This week on eBay there were several reasons why I wrote my Master Thesis on 
Edison machines then worked with George Frow to do the book.

Item 1 was a rare 200 thread per inch feedscrew and record mandrel from an M 
electric that allowed it to play Amberol records ! ! !   This seller doesn't 
know that even Edison could not make that work so a planetary gear was used on 
the 100 TPI feedscrew for the 200 TPI records.  But since he pulled the mandrel 
and feedscrew off of an M and the threads looked more fine to his eyes that is 
what ended up in the listing.  It's an M mandrel ! ! !

Item 2 was a rare two piece Fireside Horn reproduction.  This is one of the 
peach can Bondo Frick's Freaks horns.  I am surprised it hasn't come apart so 
someone had to take good care of it for the last 50 years.  Karl cut out the 
screw caps from cooking oil cans to make the screw connection between the two 
pieces of the horn.  The caps were rather narrow to the horn is slim until 
after 
the connection then the 'bloom' on the bell is rapid.  Viewed from the side it 
just looks odd at best.

Item 3 is a Standard with a broken reproducer limit pin and broken stylus bar 
diaphragm link.  I contacted the seller and was told, "Every thing is there and 
it all works!"

I guess I must be like Don Quixote jousting with windmills.

Best wishes everyone,

Al

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