Re: [Phono-L] What's wrong with this motor?

[Rich via Phono-L]

Spring is broken

On 7/15/19 10:50 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

And how easy is it to fix?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4QGVpMLNGHUuksx9

Thanks in advance!
Robert

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Re: [Phono-L] Little Wonder Phono problems

[Rich via Phono-L]

Like all things this also is going in cycles. Mailing lists are 
definitely a waning interest of the masses.


On 5/10/19 1:05 AM, SN Medved via Phono-L wrote:
Some people have retired from the hobby, some have passed.  From its 
heyday the list today is 10% of its former glory when people asked to be 
removed because of all the emails.  The hobby in general is the same 
way.  Each year the shows I have been to get smaller. Prices go down.  
The world famous Ron Sitko told me this past year has been great for him 
because people who own family phonographs are buying parts for them.  At 
the Orlando show I got three reproducers to do, one was from a man whose 
grandfather owned the machine.


I remember when Ron D, I and others were discussing a subject and we 
were chastised for too many emails.  I used to save a lot of emails from 
the phonolists, now over the past three years I think I have saved one 
to my computer.


Steve Medved


*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Bob Maffit 
via Phono-L 

*Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2019 12:08 AM
*To:* 'Antique Phonograph List'
*Cc:* Bob Maffit
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Little Wonder Phono problems

Listers:

I had been wondering what had happened to the list and its members, as 
very little was happening.


Well, it looks like we are still around.

Recently, I had inquired about a phono part and did get a reply. When 
initiated, the list works.


Bob Maffit

*From:*Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] *On Behalf Of *Jim 
Nichol via Phono-L

*Sent:* Tuesday, May 07, 2019 9:34 PM
*To:* Antique Phonograph List
*Cc:* Jim Nichol
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Little Wonder Phono problems

Ron, I doubt you and Mike are the only people left on this list. But 
I’ve only run into problems like yours twice. One was a Busy Bee disc 
phono. I did find a problem with binding in the governor gearing, but I 
think a weak spring was the real problem. Also, my Edison Opera stopped 
working after traveling to Chicago. It was easily fixed when I found 
that governor shaft wouldn’t turn. I loosened a set screw and allowed a 
little play in the governor shaft, and all was well.


Jim Nichol



On May 7, 2019, at 9:43 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


The old spring was 5/8 by .018.   I’ve just installed a 5/8 by .022  
which seems to be about the same length, around 8 5eet I believe.  It’s 
a NOS Honest Quaker (I actually have two of these!).  It may be a bit 
better.  I think I’m going to try a counter weight on the “tone arm” to 
lighten the reproduce a bit.  That may let it play through an 8” record.


Looks like you and I are the only ones on the oldcrank phonograph list.  
NO one else commented.


Ron L

*From:*Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org]*On Behalf Of*Mike 
Tucker via Phono-L

*Sent:*Saturday, May 04, 2019 6:13 PM
*To:*'Antique Phonograph List'
*Cc:*mtucker1...@gmail.com 
*Subject:*Re: [Phono-L] Little Wonder Phono problems

Ron,

What is the width of the spring?

The Windsor listing gives the following for small toy motors (Genola, 
Baby Grand,Carryola Cub, Pei-o-phone, Artone, Featherweight etc) with 
pear shape holes as ½” x .022 x 8feet.


For old type toy motors the dimensions are 9/16” x .025 x 10 feet.

I have no specific listing for the Little Wonder.

Best wishes,

Mike Tucker

*From:*Phono-L >*On Behalf Of*Ron L'Herault via 
Phono-L

*Sent:*Sunday, 5 May 2019 6:29 AM
*To:*phonol...@yahoogroups.com ; 
'Antique Phonograph List' >

*Cc:*Ron L'Herault mailto:lhera...@verizon.net>>
*Subject:*[Phono-L] Little Wonder Phono problems

I’ve been sent a LW phono with a host of small problems.  This is a 
Vertical only machine that according to the lit. should use a sapphire 
ball.   The governor springs were wrong.  I’ve got two with Columbia 
weights that are pretty close.  Had to make a lower bearing for the 
governor.  It’s  tad sloppy but rotational speed seems fairly consistent 
until the record slows half way into the side.   I suspect the spring is 
the wrong size (too long and maybe too thick).  S,  what size should 
the spring be?  There is a dish shaped washer on the winding gear side 
of the spring. Should the upward curve of the dish be towards the 
spring or towards the winding gear?  Should the spring be exposed on its 
other end or was there another dish or flat disk there?    Anybody 
know?  And does anyone know the actual length, width, thickness of the 
gov. springs?


Thanks,

Ron L

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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

You are quite welcome. Keep in mind that this finishing technique was 
applied by very low cost labor provided with minimum training and most 
were paid on a per-piece finished basis. For bare wood the usual prep 
was to stain it with a thin cut of shellac with dye in it. This colored 
shellac was actually the 2nd coat as the first coat was just a plain 
wash coat to seal the wood.Between coats a very light sanding with extra 
fine flint paper to cut off the nubs that pop up.


On 1/13/19 12:33 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

I definitely didn't see any of that the first time around! Wow, this really 
gives me something to work with, thank you! I'll try a couple spare pieces of 
wood for practice. Thanks, Rich! And thank you for sending it again!

Robert



On Jan 13, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Rich via Phono-L  wrote:


That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications medium at 
best.

Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac which is 
the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days for the wax and 
bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color and it then thinned to 
the consistency of water, use a high dollar professional watercolor brush only 
for best results. Apply enough coats of shellac to almost fill the blemish and 
then use the violin varnish for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad 
with paraffin oil to clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen 
Behcol thinner is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a 
substitute. If Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor 
store. This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products

--Rich

On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the info.

*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 

*Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
--Rich
On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get most of 
it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was that the arms 
that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but I think the hot water 
I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk that was making it so stiff. 
After a thorough drying, I oiled all the moving parts with 3-in-one, then 
rubbed an oily paper towel over all of it to guard against any kind of moisture 
left over.
Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a bit 
involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
Thanks,
Robert
On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:

You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the finish.  
 I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the mechanism and spray 
cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not use polish.  Relubricate 
moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the pad to avoid squeal.
Ron

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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

Testors Airplane Dope is a liquid and not airplane glue. It is basically 
a lacquer and it dries rock hard and also shrinks so no brush marks and 
ripples. Testors also supplies a thinner for it.


On 1/13/19 6:47 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

What would you use to thin airplane glue? Any normal paint thinner?

*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
Phono-L 

*Sent:* Sunday, January 13, 2019 5:51:58 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned
cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit
soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is
Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.

On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.

Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?


Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
pad to avoid squeal.
Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

No, that is cabinet finish. Gold plating was usually coated with thinned 
cellulose lacquer. Fingernail polish also contains oil so it is a bit 
soft and true cellulose lacquer is rather tough to come by bet bet is 
Testors thinned clear airplane dope from you local hobby shop.


On 1/13/19 2:44 PM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

And that would have been applied to metal finished parts?

Ron L

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 6:39 PM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.

Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?


Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the
pad to avoid squeal.
Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications 
medium at best.


Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac 
which is the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days 
for the wax and bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color 
and it then thinned to the consistency of water, use a high dollar 
professional watercolor brush only for best results. Apply enough coats 
of shellac to almost fill the blemish and then use the violin varnish 
for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad with paraffin oil to 
clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen Behcol thinner 
is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a substitute. If 
Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor store. 
This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.

https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products

--Rich

On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the 
info.


*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
Phono-L 

*Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.

The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.

--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.


Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?



Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
pad to avoid squeal.

Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be 
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac 
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.


The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing 
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material 
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying 
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.


--Rich

On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.


Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?



Thanks,
Robert



On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:


You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
pad to avoid squeal.

Ron


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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

[Rich via Phono-L]

The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be 
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac 
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.


On 1/10/19 5:08 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:

Hello and happy new year to everyone! Two quick questions for you:

1. What's the best way to clean the piece pictured here? (It's the auto 
brake and start/stop lever assembly of a later Orthophonic.) Anything 
safe I can soak the whole thing in without destroying the gold lacquer 
finish?


2. What modern, commercially available product would be the closest 
match to the factory finish of the cabinet if I needed to refinish, say, 
the top of the lid? Victor used varnish, if I'm not mistaken. I'd like 
to get the same satin-y finish as what they had new.


Thanks as always!
Robert

*From:* Phono-L  on behalf of Rich via 
Phono-L 

*Sent:* Monday, December 10, 2018 9:43:03 AM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X motor rebuilds
Wedging sticks under the coils is not a permanent or proper fix. The fix
is to vacuum fill the coils with class H insulating varnish. It is
likely that these motors were never designed to operate on 120vAC which
does not help either. 110vAC is not equivalent to 120vAC.

I do not think anyone rebuilds these commercially, this is an antique
restoration project.

Might have better luck sourcing replacements that have not totally dried
out and operate properly.

--Rich

On 12/10/18 8:53 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

ISTR that home Depot/Lowes have little bags of wooden shims, like scraps of
wood shingles that might work in place of popsicle sticks (have you looked
in your local grocery store for those?).

Ron l

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Robert
Wright via Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2018 4:01 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Cc: Robert Wright
Subject: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X motor rebuilds

Happy December, friends! Thanks again for the help with my recently-acquired
8-12. George V did the mounting bracket to be like new while Walt is working
on the reproducer.

I also stumbled upon a Credenza X with a good bit of cabinet damage and no
reproducer, but with a clean motor and interior, with the bracketless
tonearm in great shape. I can do all the woodwork on the cabinet, but the
two things I could use some help with are:

What's the best way to find a good machine-specific reproducer for the
Credenza X? I know it's one of the best ones they made, but I can't spend
$600 on it right now. What would you do? Maybe find an Orthophonic suitcase
model and scavenge the 'box off it?

More pressing at the moment are the motors. The 8-12's motor I've mentioned
already -- has a big, loud 60Hz hum from the coils loosening their grips on
the cores. I can't find anywhere popsicle sticks will even fit, and I'd
rather secure them with that doping compound that motor repair guys 'paint'
all over them to quiet them. Basically, I know I'm in over my head there.
And the motor for the Credenza X is nearly dead silent for the hum problem,
but it unfortunately has some other mechanical noise I can't figure out (a
clacking purr type of noise -- maybe the governor weights coming into
contact with something they shouldn't?). It's always something!

So I'm hoping some of you folks know someone out there who routinely
rebuilds these motors who can take my money in exchange for doing these two.
Or that one of you might be willing to. I'm hoping to dope up the coils on
both of them to keep them as silent as possible for decades to come, and to
have them disassembled, cleaned thoroughly, and relubed with the proper
grease/oil, and to have them adjusted for optimal performance with new pads
for the governors (and speed indicator in the case of the Credenza). I'm
happy to pay whatever is required, obviously, I just need to know who to
ask.

Thanks (as always) for any and all help and advice!

Best,
Robert
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Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X motor rebuilds

[Rich via Phono-L]

Wedging sticks under the coils is not a permanent or proper fix. The fix 
is to vacuum fill the coils with class H insulating varnish. It is 
likely that these motors were never designed to operate on 120vAC which 
does not help either. 110vAC is not equivalent to 120vAC.


I do not think anyone rebuilds these commercially, this is an antique 
restoration project.


Might have better luck sourcing replacements that have not totally dried 
out and operate properly.


--Rich

On 12/10/18 8:53 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L wrote:

ISTR that home Depot/Lowes have little bags of wooden shims, like scraps of
wood shingles that might work in place of popsicle sticks (have you looked
in your local grocery store for those?).

Ron l

-Original Message-
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Robert
Wright via Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2018 4:01 PM
To: Antique Phonograph List
Cc: Robert Wright
Subject: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X motor rebuilds

Happy December, friends! Thanks again for the help with my recently-acquired
8-12. George V did the mounting bracket to be like new while Walt is working
on the reproducer.

I also stumbled upon a Credenza X with a good bit of cabinet damage and no
reproducer, but with a clean motor and interior, with the bracketless
tonearm in great shape. I can do all the woodwork on the cabinet, but the
two things I could use some help with are:

What's the best way to find a good machine-specific reproducer for the
Credenza X? I know it's one of the best ones they made, but I can't spend
$600 on it right now. What would you do? Maybe find an Orthophonic suitcase
model and scavenge the 'box off it?

More pressing at the moment are the motors. The 8-12's motor I've mentioned
already -- has a big, loud 60Hz hum from the coils loosening their grips on
the cores. I can't find anywhere popsicle sticks will even fit, and I'd
rather secure them with that doping compound that motor repair guys 'paint'
all over them to quiet them. Basically, I know I'm in over my head there.
And the motor for the Credenza X is nearly dead silent for the hum problem,
but it unfortunately has some other mechanical noise I can't figure out (a
clacking purr type of noise -- maybe the governor weights coming into
contact with something they shouldn't?). It's always something!

So I'm hoping some of you folks know someone out there who routinely
rebuilds these motors who can take my money in exchange for doing these two.
Or that one of you might be willing to. I'm hoping to dope up the coils on
both of them to keep them as silent as possible for decades to come, and to
have them disassembled, cleaned thoroughly, and relubed with the proper
grease/oil, and to have them adjusted for optimal performance with new pads
for the governors (and speed indicator in the case of the Credenza). I'm
happy to pay whatever is required, obviously, I just need to know who to
ask.

Thanks (as always) for any and all help and advice!

Best,
Robert
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Re: [Phono-L] 1A owners Model M question

[Rich via Phono-L]

You are correct on the 1/8" or a bit less. The lever on the stanchion 
can be tweaked to rest closer to the lever on the reproducer. Sometimes 
tweaking is required to get any of those reproducers to lift far enough. 
If you need them I can get measurements as I have all 3 machines.


--Rich

On 04/02/2018 10:20 AM, SN Medved via Phono-L wrote:
I recently placed a 1A mechanism in a case and created what is a 2/4 
Opera.  With the M in 2 or 4 minute and the stylus on the record and the 
machine stopped how far off the record can the stylus be lifted?  On 
most machines this is around 1/8 of an inch to allow for mandrel play.



The 1A bedplate is different from the Opera so I had an 
Opera reproduction top brazed on a 1A stanchion.  The first M I tested 
out the stylus would barely raise off the record and the second M I 
tested it would not raise off at all.  I placed washers under the 
stanchion and will make a shim.



Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have zero experience with the 
Amberola 1, 3, or Opera.



Thanks,


Steve



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