Re: [pinhole-discussion] color copies

2001-08-16 Thread Katharine Thayer
Wilhelm was giving color xerox materials good longevity several years
ago, about the same as Cibachrome prints, (which by the way aren't as
archival as many people believe them to be. They are archival if you
keep them in the dark, but in the light it's more like 25 years
according to Wilhelm) and longer by far than inkjet prints of the time
or most color photographs. And certainly longer than the SX-70 dyes,
which are notoriously fugitive. 
Katharine thayer



[pinhole-discussion] color copies

2001-08-16 Thread gina
Color copies look especially good if you make the copies on nicer paper than
the standard stuff already loaded into the machines-I've made some repros on
Crane 100% rag vellum stationery for copiers, available at any of the office
supply megastores.  Its semi-translucent but there are other kinds as well
that will work well in color copiers.  I even enlarged some 3 x 3 inch color
pinhole photos 100%  and they look wonderful.

Gina Bellando
NJ USA




Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing colours

2001-08-16 Thread Brigitte . Harper
OK, here is what I do:

As a solvent I now use Seriwash which is a silk screen cleaner from
Sericol. But I have used others in the past, i.e. various paint thinners
like from Humbrol to thin enamel paints which come in tiny little pots, for
painting models like tin soldiers, I believe.( I live in the UK so I don't
know what other solvents are available elsewhere.)

It is best to tape the watercolour paper onto a smooth surface (make sure
the solvent doesn't harm the surface). I find glass is best.
The xerox is then taped with masking tape (for more easy removal later on
without tearing the paper) face down onto smooth surfaced or very lightly
textured watercolour paper. Smooth is a must for beginners as it is
difficult to get the colours into the dimples of the paper. The solvent is
then applied to the back of the xerox with a cotton rag and pressure is
applied with the back of the spoon. Some people use an extremely hard
brayer.

 I find it easier to do a print in sections, i.e. to get the first inch
transferred before moving onto the next one, and I only apply the solvent
to a small section at a time because it takes some time to transfer and in
the meantime the sections you are not working on are drying again and too
many solvent applications sometimes make the colours run into each other.
To check whether all you want to transfer has been transferred, carefully
lift a corner of the xerox and take a look. Make sure to align it and tape
it back down properly again. Also make sure that the no part of the
sandwich moves during the transfer as you are applying quite a lot of
pressure.

The whole process has to be done in extremely good ventilation; I do it
outside wearing rubber gloves and a face mask.
Once a transfer is completed it takes a couple of days for the smell of the
solvent to evaporate.

I find it not an easy technique and to start with it requires a lot of
patience until you have worked out the right solvent/paper/xerox
combination . I  use this process only for special images. You can transfer
all or only parts of the image. I sometimes transfer only small parts of
the edges of the xerox copy to give a feathered soft watercolour look edge.

There might me some info on this process in the archives of the
alt-photo-process list.

Good luck,
Brigitte.




Guillermo 

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16/08/2001 14:16

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- Original Message -
From: brigitte.har...@london.glencore.com

 Or how about taking it further still. I get the xerox copies printed with
 the image reversed  and then transfer the image with solvent onto
 watercolour paper. Prints done this way about 7-8 years ago show  no
 visible changes in colour.
 Regards,
 Brigitte.

I heard before of this technique but never sounded as a good thing to try,
but now, it really does!!  So let me ask you: could you give me specifics
on
the solvent you use and if possible the technique used to transfer the
image?

Pls, be as prolific as possible in your explanation.

Many thanks

Guillermo


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RE: [pinhole-discussion] changing colours

2001-08-16 Thread Chuck Flagg
I too would like to here more about this transfer of Xerox copies.  I
transfered printed magazine images by rubbing [burnishing] like mad and
using lighter fluid years ago.
Chuck Flagg

Or how about taking it further still. I get the xerox copies printed with
the image reversed  and then transfer the image with solvent onto
watercolour paper. Prints done this way about 7-8 years ago show  no
visible changes in colour.
Regards,
Brigitte.












Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing colours

2001-08-16 Thread Kosinski Family
Brigitte, Lots of folks would like to know this technique! Thanks, Jim K
www.paintcancamera.com

 - Original Message -
 From: brigitte.har...@london.glencore.com

  Or how about taking it further still. I get the xerox copies printed
with
  the image reversed  and then transfer the image with solvent onto
  watercolour paper. Prints done this way about 7-8 years ago show  no
  visible changes in colour.
  Regards,
  Brigitte.

 I heard before of this technique but never sounded as a good thing to try,
 but now, it really does!!  So let me ask you: could you give me specifics
on
 the solvent you use and if possible the technique used to transfer the
 image?

 Pls, be as prolific as possible in your explanation.

 Many thanks

 Guillermo


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing colours

2001-08-16 Thread Brigitte . Harper
Or how about taking it further still. I get the xerox copies printed with
the image reversed  and then transfer the image with solvent onto
watercolour paper. Prints done this way about 7-8 years ago show  no
visible changes in colour.
Regards,
Brigitte.




Gordon J. Holtslander 

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15/08/2001 15:42

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what about making a color xerox (or what ever brand copier) of the print.
I don't know how archival the toners used in color copiers are, but they
are likely better than the standard ink jet ink.  These may be pigment
based rather than dye based.  If so there are likely far more stable.

I knew a photographer once who was on a limited budget - shot everything
on slides (a six by nine slides from a Makina - spent all his money on
this camera!) - when he wanted a prints he took his slides to a color
copying shop and made enlargments on the copier.  He soon knew how to use
the copiers better than most people who ran the shops.

Took things a step further and cut up his color copies and made
photo-collages, using his own and found images  and copied the collage
to make its final collage print. One could do this with a computer now.

Oops but this isn't pinhole.

That was ten years ago - I'll see if I have any of his color copy prints,
and check whether they have degraded.



On Tue, 14 Aug 2001, Jan Hinderson wrote:

 Does anyone know a better alternative than Canons own colurs for their
printers? I use a Canon BJC 7000 printer with Canon BC-60 Black ink and BC
62 Photo Color ink.
 I have not had any problems before, but in my last exhibition I hung my
pinhole colour prints in a greenhouse where they have been exposed to
direct sunlight all day for two months and upon that high humidity in the
nights. And that was a bit too tough! In the last weeks of the exhibition
the pictures began to lose some of the colour, they became paler and turned
more to the green.
 The theme for the picuters is garden vegetation and from a philosophical
point of view I can se the changes in the print colour as a parallell to
the changes in nature when we are turning into late summer and autumn - but
I don't think that the potential buyers of my pictures are willing to buy
that kind of reasoning.
 So - is there a more resistant and safe printer ink on the market, that
one can use in Canon printers?

 Jan Hinderson


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Gordon J. Holtslander Dept. of Biology
hol...@duke.usask.ca  112 Science Place
http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsgUniversity of Saskatchewan
Tel (306) 966-4433  Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Fax (306) 966-4461  Canada  S7N 5E2
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