Re: [pinhole-discussion] Bellows factor

2001-11-30 Thread Colin Talcroft
That was my instinct, Guillermo, and thanks for your
answer. 

Funny thing is, I tried it yesterday at a minute and a
half--my rough calculation, which was close to your
suggested 84.5 seconds--and it completely overexposed
the film. It was all white (using Polaroid Type 55).
Then I tried it indoors in a setting that I know from
experience needs about 45 minutes. I gave it about an
hour--very little more than what I would normally—and
the expoure was more or less correct. In other words,
it was behaving very much like the extension had no
effect at all. Wonder why?

Colin



 There is no rule of thumb, just plain physics of
 light.
 This case is in no way different than if you were
 using a glass lens.
  
  If I would expect a 2-second exposure outside in
 full
  sunlight with a 5.0CM focal length, for example,
  what would be a theoretical equivalent at 32.5 CM?
 
 84.5 seconds (uncorrected for reciprocity, time)
 
 Guillermo
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Colin Talcroft
--- Eric S. Theise mat...@cyberwerks.com wrote:
 tricks...@aol.com writes:
  I was wondering . Does anybody on this list NOT
 use a changing bag?

Interesting. Just for the record, I have never owned a
changing back and never used one in my life.

Colin

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: changing bags--who uses them??

2001-11-30 Thread Trickstrr
Diana,
So how do you change your 35mm onto reels? Do you do that at all?
--jeremiah





In a message dated 11/30/01 3:25:58 PM, dlhbl...@mindspring.com writes:

I never use a changing bag for all the reasons (and more) already given.
 I just
collected (bought new or used) enough film holders over the years, and
now I load
them all up before I go out, and that works for me.  I just could not handle
sheet
film in a changing bag, without accumulating dust and--worse--scratches.
 But maybe
I'm not as careful as most (?)  Still, I suggest getting film holders.
 You can
always find used ones--in good shape and reasonably priced. --Diana




Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Joao Ribeiro
Hi Eric,

Congratulations on you show.
Please send us more, it's very nice indeed!

Joao





Re: [pinhole-discussion] Darkroom door - suggestion needed

2001-11-30 Thread Joao Ribeiro
Hi Guillermo,

I once visited a studio here where all doors, studio and lab, had a kind of a 
pre
room, you had to close the first door and stand in this small room for a while 
and
get some air circulating to clean dust before going into the lab.
Pretty fancy but also pretty expensive.
My home solution is a heavy cloth curtain  wider and longer than the door placed
right behind it, so when I'm in with door closed, the curtain cuts all the light
leaks comming in.
Have fun with your project,

Joao




Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Tom Miller
There is an exhibit of photographs by Henry P. Bosse at the Weisman
Art Museum at the University of Minnesota.  Bosse was an German-born
engineer, surveyor and draftsman who worked for the for the Corp of
Engineers on the Upper Mississippi from the late 1870s through the
early 1900s.  He produced a remarkably accurate set of maps covering
the area between Minneapolis and St. Louis that guided river pilots
until locks and dams were built in the 1930s.  He also photographed
extensively along the entire upper river using an 11x14 view camera.
His images are mostly impeccably composed landscpapes recording towns,
bridges and the power of the river as it interacts with the newly
created civilization that used the watercourse as its main highway.
Many images of steamboats and work on the river are also part of his
photography. Nearly all of the images are contact-printed cyanotypes,
which makes sense for a working surveyor and draftsman travelling in a
riverboat.  Most are printed as ovals, which perhaps makes them seem
quaint to us now, but must have presented a compositional challenge to
Bosse.  His work was unknown until a volume owned by relatives and
then given to a neighbor surfaced about ten years ago.   When
auctioned at Sotheby's, the high quality of the work immediately
placed Bosse as one of the great 19th century photographers.  A second
volume of his work was found in the pilot house of a river dredge,
where it had been in a drawer since 1937.  The

Around 1972, I played a bit part on the first environment impact study
of the upper river.  My job was to use a planimeter to measure the
surface of the river on some old navigation maps and then again on the
latest ariel-photographed navigation charts.  The idea what to find
differences between the free-flowing river and the series of pools
that it has become today.  A true delight for me at the Bosse
exhibition was to discover that this remarkable engineer/photographer
produced the maps I worked with nearly thirty years ago.

Try this link; but be warned:  The slideshow takes a painfully long
time to load over a dail-up line.
http://webcampus3.stthomas.edu/mjodonnell/bosse/exhibit.html

- Original Message -
From: Kate Hudec hu...@rcn.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 2:38 PM
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?


 Lots of tech talk on the digest lately, which is great, but I was
wondering if anyone
 had seen any photography - pinhole or otherwise - that got them
excited lately?


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread ragowaring
on 30/11/01 3:54 pm, Guy Glorieux at guy.glori...@sympatico.ca wrote:

 
 
 Tom Miller wrote:
 
 Beware of dust that gets into the bag and onto sheet film and never
 seems to leave the bag despite using a vacuum cleaner on its insides.
 I have a changing bag and do whatever I can to NOT use it for loading
 sheet film.
 
 Same here when it comes to loading sheet film.  But I use it a lot to
 load my reels for developing tanks.  I have the same problem with
 stattic, but if I let a sufficient amount of air get into the bag through
 the arms pocket after the bag is closed, then things get a little more
 comfortable.
 
 Guy
 
 
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There are some bags that have a mesh-like inner bag that doesn't 'sweat'
like plastic.  Perhaps you can find one over where you are.  I have used one
in the fiercest of sun and if you are quick, things don't get too sticky.


Alexis




Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Erich
Eric,

   ... but this'll give you some idea of what my work looks like.

Cool! Please keep us informed about your work.
Hope to see more in a website as my hometown is so far from yours 
that I can't personally attend ;-)

Erich
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread B2MYOUNG
In a message dated 11/30/01 4:42:36 PM, hu...@rcn.com writes:

 Lots of tech talk on the digest lately, which is great, but I was 
wondering if anyone
had seen any photography - pinhole or otherwise - that got them excited 
lately?
 

Robert ParkeHarrison

leezy



RE: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Andy Schmitt
That is Wonderful!! I just dismantled my show at Children's Specialized
Hospital so I have to go looks at others... now where was that frequent
flyer certificate for continental USA...hmmm...leave at 10 ... ow well. Have
a GREAT RECEPTION!!
andy

-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of Eric S. Theise
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:52 PM
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work
lately?


Kate Hudec writes:
 seen any photography - pinhole or otherwise - that got them excited
lately?

This opportunity is to good to miss.  May I promote a show I have up
in San Francisco right now?  It's at the Hayes and Vine Wine Bar, 377
Hayes Street near Gough, and it's five photogravures made from pinhole
photographs, one cyanotype on Japanese paper, mounted chine colle on
backing paper, a soft ground etching, and two Ed Ruscha photo-silkscreens
from 1975 that, I hope, add an interesting dimension of color and
technique to the proceedings.  There are also some studies for a new
pinhole portfolio that has not been cooperating, photogravure-wise.

There is a reception tomorrow, Saturday the 1st, from 3-5 if you're
in the area.  The wine should be uncharacteristically good for an art
reception.  And the show is up until January 13th.

It is exciting to see my work up, especially when the bar is full and
lively.  Oh, also, some of my pieces are in the current (Winter 2001)
issue of Zyzzyva, a west coast literary magazine that is distributed
all over the place.

--Eric

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Eric S. Theise
Erich writes:
 I think what
 Kate ment was something exciting to show around here in the list.

http://cyberwerks.com/printmaking/

The slides that these web images are based on were overexposed and need
to be reshot, so some detail is lost, but this'll give you some idea of
what my work looks like.  Exciting around here... I hope so!

--Eric



Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Erich
Eric,

That's a great opportunity. Wish I could be there, but I think what
Kate ment was something exciting to show around here in the list.
Something worthwhile to see and enjoy to bring a little life to that
gray theory. Please correct me Kate, if I'm wrong ;-)

Erich

Eric S. Theise wrote:
 
 Kate Hudec writes:
  seen any photography - pinhole or otherwise - that got them excited lately?

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Michael Keller
I'm on a digital art list, and they recently had a viewing of work to select
some pieces to be displayed on a web site. If you're interested in new tech
vs old tech, take a look at http://www.digitalphotoart.org/ No pinholes, but
many started life as photos.

Mike Keller
http://www.mikekellerphoto.com

With every mistake
We must surely be learning
Still my guitar gently weeps
George Harrison 1943-2001




[pinhole-discussion] Re: changing bags--who uses them??

2001-11-30 Thread Diana H. Bloomfield



 Message: 2
 From: tricks...@aol.com
 Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:06:58 EST
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???

 I was wondering . Does anybody on this list NOT use a changing bag?

 In a message dated 11/30/01 9:47:47 AM, twmil...@mr.net writes:

 Beware of dust that gets into the bag and onto sheet film and never
 
 seems to leave the bag despite using a vacuum cleaner on its insides.
 
 I have a changing bag and do whatever I can to NOT use it for loading
 
 sheet film.

I never use a changing bag for all the reasons (and more) already given.  I just
collected (bought new or used) enough film holders over the years, and now I 
load
them all up before I go out, and that works for me.  I just could not handle 
sheet
film in a changing bag, without accumulating dust and--worse--scratches.  But 
maybe
I'm not as careful as most (?)  Still, I suggest getting film holders.  You can
always find used ones--in good shape and reasonably priced. --Diana






Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Eric S. Theise
Eric S. Theise writes:
 This opportunity is to good to miss.

Groan.  too good.

Occurs to me that I'll also be bringing my camera and some of the
photogravure plates along tomorrow to the reception for anyone who's
interested.

Thanks, Eric



Re: [pinhole-discussion] Anyone seen any interesting work lately?

2001-11-30 Thread Eric S. Theise
Kate Hudec writes:
 seen any photography - pinhole or otherwise - that got them excited lately?

This opportunity is to good to miss.  May I promote a show I have up
in San Francisco right now?  It's at the Hayes and Vine Wine Bar, 377
Hayes Street near Gough, and it's five photogravures made from pinhole
photographs, one cyanotype on Japanese paper, mounted chine colle on
backing paper, a soft ground etching, and two Ed Ruscha photo-silkscreens
from 1975 that, I hope, add an interesting dimension of color and
technique to the proceedings.  There are also some studies for a new
pinhole portfolio that has not been cooperating, photogravure-wise.

There is a reception tomorrow, Saturday the 1st, from 3-5 if you're
in the area.  The wine should be uncharacteristically good for an art
reception.  And the show is up until January 13th.

It is exciting to see my work up, especially when the bar is full and
lively.  Oh, also, some of my pieces are in the current (Winter 2001)
issue of Zyzzyva, a west coast literary magazine that is distributed
all over the place.

--Eric



Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread ragowaring
on 30/11/01 3:33 pm, Andy Schmitt at aschm...@warwick.net wrote:

 Guillermo
 Have you tried spraying the outside of the bag with some of the spray they
 sell to women for reducing static cling in dresses?
 andy
 
 -Original Message-
 From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of G.Penate
 Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 10:14 AM
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com
 
 
 anyone have any tips or things i should know before buying a changing bag?
 i'll probably use it to load filmbacks, a big old 8x10 foamcore camera,
 120
 rolls onto reels, etc.  thanks for any help...
 
 I own one, use it but hate it.  Mine, generates static electricity, hence
 the fabric tends to stick to whatever you have inside, my hands inclusive.
 I load 35mm film into reels and 4x5 into holders without much problem, but
 working with 120 is difficult IMO.  I got mine free when I bought a press
 camera at eBay, but if I had to buy one I'd probably get a tent instead of a
 bag.
 
 Guillermo
 
 
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I too use a changing bag and hate it

must.. find.. film.. holders..

Alexis




Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: translation GORDY EMERY

2001-11-30 Thread ragowaring
on 29/11/01 12:14 pm, Joao Ribeiro at jribe...@greco.com.br wrote:

Hi Alexis, 

Paraffin oils have a boiling point in the range of 150 - 300 degrees
Centigrade while the wax has one between 50 and 60 degrees. Paraffin wax is
used for all sorts of things includeing cheap candles and waxed paper.
Actually I think you mean that paraffin has a melting point of about 60 o
C 
Camphorated oil on the other hand I would suspect is not strictly necessary.
The oil part yes, but the camphor part was probably used as a preservative
as some of you may remember camphor balls or mothball ususally consisting of
napthalene and sometimes, yes you've guessed it, camphor.
Therefore, camphorated oil was probably used as an amplication for preseving
perishable non edible goods in the days of moths.  Now all of this is some
educated conjecture but I hope it is of use to you. I would think that oil
would be sufficient.
It's hard to say, in the wet plate process they used to varnish the plate
with gum sandarac and in the formula they recommend oil of lavender. The oil
is added for flexibility and, as I was told, it has to be lavender.
I tried oiling papers with sunflower oil, it works fine but it goes rancid
over time and smells pretty bad,
so maybe the preservative is important. Paraffin (solid thing) works fine
but the paper is fragile after, it marks easily (at least thin paper I use
with ink jet printers).
I have an old formula here that I have never tried, but maybe it works, who
knows, it says: 

To make paper transparent:

Dip the paper in a bath at 80 o C of:

Parafin (solid) . 40 gr.
Linsen oil  10 gr.

After the paper take up all the solution it cans, drain it fast and put it
between 2 sheets of blotting paper.

Will it work? Who knows, but why does he  give the amount of oil in gr and
not in ml? 
This formula dates from 1905, found it in a paper I have here and it has
other curiosities. 
I am just looking up in a dictionary that camphor itself is a whitish,
translucent crystaline, pleasant-smelling terpene ketone, whatever that
means except that most ketones smell nice from what I can remember at
school, used in medicine and in the manufacture of celluloid. Ah ha! There
it is, the manufacture of celluloid.  Is that not what one is doing when
applying the camphorated oil to the paper with paraffin?  Probably not.
Will sulfuric acid damage the gelatin part of the photo paper?
I am working with an Arjo Wiggins Parchment paper called Linaje and they
told me that the transparency is obtained by immersing the paper in a
solution of sulfuric acid, washing, neutralising and buffering it after.
Anyway, whoever got a good formula I'm interested in knowing.

Cheers 

Joao 

P.S. I have an old formula for turning the wood black, but I don't know how
to translate it, maybe Guillermo will help, it says:

Extrato de Pau de Campeche .. 15 gr. (what the ... is that?)
Cromato de Potassa ...  2 gr. (I believe it is
Alumem de cromo )
Agua .. 1000 gr.

He says to dissolve the Campeche first in hot water and add the Cromato. The
solution is dark violet and becomes black in contact with the wood.


Dear Joao

Of course you are right; I was talking about melting points for paraffin.
And thanks for your formulae; I may well use them some day if I want a
special prarchment or tracing paper

All the best

Alexis



Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: translation GORDY EMERY

2001-11-30 Thread ragowaring
on 29/11/01 12:14 pm, Joao Ribeiro at jribe...@greco.com.br wrote:

Hi Alexis, 

Paraffin oils have a boiling point in the range of 150 - 300 degrees
Centigrade while the wax has one between 50 and 60 degrees. Paraffin wax is
used for all sorts of things includeing cheap candles and waxed paper.
Actually I think you mean that paraffin has a melting point of about 60 o
C 
Camphorated oil on the other hand I would suspect is not strictly necessary.
The oil part yes, but the camphor part was probably used as a preservative
as some of you may remember camphor balls or mothball ususally consisting of
napthalene and sometimes, yes you've guessed it, camphor.
Therefore, camphorated oil was probably used as an amplication for preseving
perishable non edible goods in the days of moths.  Now all of this is some
educated conjecture but I hope it is of use to you. I would think that oil
would be sufficient.
It's hard to say, in the wet plate process they used to varnish the plate
with gum sandarac and in the formula they recommend oil of lavender. The oil
is added for flexibility and, as I was told, it has to be lavender.
I tried oiling papers with sunflower oil, it works fine but it goes rancid
over time and smells pretty bad,
so maybe the preservative is important. Paraffin (solid thing) works fine
but the paper is fragile after, it marks easily (at least thin paper I use
with ink jet printers).
I have an old formula here that I have never tried, but maybe it works, who
knows, it says: 

To make paper transparent:

Dip the paper in a bath at 80 o C of:

Parafin (solid) . 40 gr.
Linsen oil  10 gr.

After the paper take up all the solution it cans, drain it fast and put it
between 2 sheets of blotting paper.

Will it work? Who knows, but why does he  give the amount of oil in gr and
not in ml? 
This formula dates from 1905, found it in a paper I have here and it has
other curiosities. 
I am just looking up in a dictionary that camphor itself is a whitish,
translucent crystaline, pleasant-smelling terpene ketone, whatever that
means except that most ketones smell nice from what I can remember at
school, used in medicine and in the manufacture of celluloid. Ah ha! There
it is, the manufacture of celluloid.  Is that not what one is doing when
applying the camphorated oil to the paper with paraffin?  Probably not.
Will sulfuric acid damage the gelatin part of the photo paper?
I am working with an Arjo Wiggins Parchment paper called Linaje and they
told me that the transparency is obtained by immersing the paper in a
solution of sulfuric acid, washing, neutralising and buffering it after.
Anyway, whoever got a good formula I'm interested in knowing.

Cheers 

Joao 

P.S. I have an old formula for turning the wood black, but I don't know how
to translate it, maybe Guillermo will help, it says:

Extrato de Pau de Campeche .. 15 gr. (what the ... is that?)
Cromato de Potassa ...  2 gr. (I believe it is
Alumem de cromo )
Agua .. 1000 gr.

He says to dissolve the Campeche first in hot water and add the Cromato. The
solution is dark violet and becomes black in contact with the wood.

Dear Joao
   Of course you are right; I was talking about the melting point.
Thanks for your formulae, I may use them one day when I want to make tracing
papers of particular quality.

All the best

Alexis 


Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread DAlfrey
In a message dated 11/30/01 9:47:47 AM Central Standard Time, twmil...@mr.net 
writes:

 Beware of dust that gets into the bag and onto sheet film and never
 seems to leave the bag despite using a vacuum cleaner on its insides.
 I have a changing bag and do whatever I can to NOT use it for loading
 sheet film. 
I use a changing bag, but what I do is , wad the changing bag up and put it 
into a baggie , the half gallon size with a zip lock. I take it out of the 
baggie when I need to change film holders in the changing bag , or unload a 
camera , etc, then it goes right back into the baggie after , and I have not 
had a problem (cross my fingers,eyes , etc) It might seem a bit much, but all 
I know it works for me, 



Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Eric S. Theise
tricks...@aol.com writes:
 I was wondering . Does anybody on this list NOT use a changing bag?

My experience is the same as Tom's... DUST, despite shaking and cleaning
and vacuuming.  Using a changing bag on a project turned out to be the
dumbest thing I did this year.  Although I suppose I will need to use
it again sometime in the field, I try to load my backs in a closet or
darkroom in advance now, and I'd rather carry a couple more backs than
subject my projects to that level of dust again.

--Eric



Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Trickstrr
I was wondering . Does anybody on this list NOT use a changing bag?





In a message dated 11/30/01 9:47:47 AM, twmil...@mr.net writes:

Beware of dust that gets into the bag and onto sheet film and never

seems to leave the bag despite using a vacuum cleaner on its insides.

I have a changing bag and do whatever I can to NOT use it for loading

sheet film.







RE: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Michael Keller
No, it's the result of the awful stinky plastic odor trapped inside a
well-sealed changing bag.g

|-Original Message-
|
| I'm happy enough with my changing bag,
| but my hands stink everytime I use it.g
|
|Maybe the stink comes from the spray Andy is suggesting me to use!
|which brand you use? so I avoid it.   :-))
|
|Guillermo
|
|




[pinhole-discussion] Re: changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Guy Glorieux

Tom Miller wrote:

 Beware of dust that gets into the bag and onto sheet film and never
 seems to leave the bag despite using a vacuum cleaner on its insides.
 I have a changing bag and do whatever I can to NOT use it for loading
 sheet film.

Same here when it comes to loading sheet film.  But I use it a lot to
load my reels for developing tanks.  I have the same problem with
stattic, but if I let a sufficient amount of air get into the bag through
the arms pocket after the bag is closed, then things get a little more
comfortable.

Guy




RE: [pinhole-discussion] Darkroom door - suggestion needed

2001-11-30 Thread Andy Schmitt
Hey
One of the easiest sealers I've found, especially for new straight doors
is the rubber tube attached to a metal strip that you nail into the buck
frame/molding.
There is also a company that makes Black out drapes (RonLock  -Rockland
Industries Inc PO Box 1293 Baltimore Md. 21297). They sell off the
irregulars on ebay.

I've never tried a pocket door since I haven't been able to build a darkroom
wall from scratch. Interesting idea since you can route out the spots where
the door meets the buck frame  really seal it nicely. BTW.buy a flat
door...the pretty ones with mitered panels are not completely light
tightor put a sheet of black plastic on the darkroom side.

The other thing I've found is I leave a HEPTA filtered fan running to take
up the dust...seems to work well since I never seem to find dust in there
even with heat ducts, etc.

good luck...please keep us informed on your choice  it's results.
andy

-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of G.Penate
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 10:35 AM
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Darkroom door - suggestion needed



After having no darkroom for the past 6 years or so, I am now building a 9 x
8 feet darkroom in my basement.  Yesterday I made the framing of the walls,
except the wall where the door will be situated.  I am considering a pocket
sliding door and adding 2 of extra moulding all around the inside door
opening, as a way to make it light leaks proof.

I have to buy the door (sliding or conventional door) by tomorrow and would
love to hear any comments or suggestions people have on that respect.  I
know this question is a bit OT but since am going to use the darkroom to
develop/print my pinhole stuff, I thought the pinhole list police would
let this one go!

Hope to hear from anyone having an opinion (direct mail is OK)

Guillermo



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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Darkroom door - suggestion needed

2001-11-30 Thread Michael Keller
Make sure you make it large enough to accomodate the largest piece of gear
you'll want to bring through that door. That includes allowing for the door
jamb and moulding.




RE: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Andy Schmitt
... oh ok. i was trying to keep it simple...
8o)
andy

-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of Richard M.
Koolish
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2893 6:44 PM
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info


 Mike,
 Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
 Guy

 yes
 the only difference is the emulsion is sensitive to red  green, sort of
 like color film.
 andy
k


Color films and papers have three emulsion layers, each sensitive to a
different color.  Panalure paper has a single panchromatic (all colors)
black and white emulsion, similar to panchromatic black and white films
like Tri-X.  Single grade black and white papers have one emulsion layer
sensitive to blue light and not sensitive to red light, which is why we
can
use a red safelight with these papers.  Variable contrast papers have
two
emulsion layers, one low contrast and one high contrast.  One layer is
sensitive to blue light and one to green light.

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Richard M. Koolish
 Mike,
 Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
 Guy
 
 yes
 the only difference is the emulsion is sensitive to red  green, sort of
 like color film.
 andy
k


Color films and papers have three emulsion layers, each sensitive to a
different color.  Panalure paper has a single panchromatic (all colors)
black and white emulsion, similar to panchromatic black and white films
like Tri-X.  Single grade black and white papers have one emulsion layer
sensitive to blue light and not sensitive to red light, which is why we can
use a red safelight with these papers.  Variable contrast papers have two
emulsion layers, one low contrast and one high contrast.  One layer is
sensitive to blue light and one to green light.



RE: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread Andy Schmitt
Guillermo
Have you tried spraying the outside of the bag with some of the spray they
sell to women for reducing static cling in dresses?
andy

-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of G.Penate
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 10:14 AM
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags



- Original Message -
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com


 anyone have any tips or things i should know before buying a changing bag?
 i'll probably use it to load filmbacks, a big old 8x10 foamcore camera,
120
 rolls onto reels, etc.  thanks for any help...

I own one, use it but hate it.  Mine, generates static electricity, hence
the fabric tends to stick to whatever you have inside, my hands inclusive.
I load 35mm film into reels and 4x5 into holders without much problem, but
working with 120 is difficult IMO.  I got mine free when I bought a press
camera at eBay, but if I had to buy one I'd probably get a tent instead of a
bag.

Guillermo


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[pinhole-discussion] Darkroom door - suggestion needed

2001-11-30 Thread G.Penate
After having no darkroom for the past 6 years or so, I am now building a 9 x
8 feet darkroom in my basement.  Yesterday I made the framing of the walls,
except the wall where the door will be situated.  I am considering a pocket
sliding door and adding 2 of extra moulding all around the inside door
opening, as a way to make it light leaks proof.

I have to buy the door (sliding or conventional door) by tomorrow and would
love to hear any comments or suggestions people have on that respect.  I
know this question is a bit OT but since am going to use the darkroom to
develop/print my pinhole stuff, I thought the pinhole list police would
let this one go!

Hope to hear from anyone having an opinion (direct mail is OK)

Guillermo





Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread G.Penate
- Original Message -
From: Don Hill donh...@juno.com

 With all the talk regarding paper negatives I thought I would add a small
 bit of information.  I have recently started using panalure for making
 paper negatives in camera

During the past weeks I was considering in doing that, thanks for the info.

Talking about paper negatives, what about this one I made for a workshop I
gave recently:  it is a 35mm format paper negative using satin MGIV paper
and then enlarging the paper negative to 6x6 inches:

http://members.rogers.com/penate/doll6x6.jpg

I reported this before but forgot to add a link to the image.

Guillermo




Re: [pinhole-discussion] changing bags

2001-11-30 Thread G.Penate
- Original Message -
From: R Duarte ra...@rahji.com


 anyone have any tips or things i should know before buying a changing bag?
 i'll probably use it to load filmbacks, a big old 8x10 foamcore camera,
120
 rolls onto reels, etc.  thanks for any help...

I own one, use it but hate it.  Mine, generates static electricity, hence
the fabric tends to stick to whatever you have inside, my hands inclusive.
I load 35mm film into reels and 4x5 into holders without much problem, but
working with 120 is difficult IMO.  I got mine free when I bought a press
camera at eBay, but if I had to buy one I'd probably get a tent instead of a
bag.

Guillermo




RE: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Andy Schmitt
yes
the only difference is the emulsion is sensitive to red  green, sort of
like color film.
andy
-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of Guy Glorieux
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 9:45 AM
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info






 |Guy,
 |  Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it
 |requires full darkness.
 |
 |Mike
 |

Mike,
Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
Guy


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Richard M. Koolish
  |  Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it
  |requires full darkness.
  |
  |Mike
  |
 
 Mike,
 Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
 Guy


The Kodak info on Panalure is at:

   
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/g27/g27.jhtml



Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Guy Glorieux



 |Guy,
 |  Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it
 |requires full darkness.
 |
 |Mike
 |

Mike,
Do you process it with standard BW chemistry?
Guy




RE: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Michael Keller
I would presume you can use color darkroom safelights with Panalure.

|-Original Message-
|
|
|Guy,
|  Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it 
|requires full darkness.
|
|Mike
|



Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread NeuhausPhoto
Guy,
  Panalure is panchromatic, not ortho or blue sensitive. That's why it 
requires full darkness.

Mike


In a message dated 11/30/01 7:01:51 AM, guy.glori...@sympatico.ca writes:

 I have never used Panalure, but I'm surprised that you would get bad 
fogging
during normal development under safelight, to the point that you need to
develop it in full darkness.  Is this the case whether you use red or
yellow-green safelights? 




[pinhole-discussion] A final thought about reciprocity failure with paper negs.

2001-11-30 Thread Bill Erickson
The more I thought about this the more I realized that, with very long 
exposures, the risk of overexposure is lessened by  reciprocity failure, and 
the longer the exposure, the less the overexposure risk. In essence, it is far 
easier to fatally underexpose than fatally overexpose, and far more efficient 
to overexpose and then work backward from that than vice versa.  


Re: [pinhole-discussion] Greetings and paper negative info

2001-11-30 Thread Guy Glorieux
Thanks for this very interesting outline, Don.

I have never used Panalure, but I'm surprised that you would get bad fogging
during normal development under safelight, to the point that you need to
develop it in full darkness.  Is this the case whether you use red or
yellow-green safelights?

I experience fogging problems when I process prints using the Lith Printing
process, because of the long processing times (8-10 minutes or above), but
I've solved that by using a low wattage bulb with my safelight and using the
recommended yellow-green safelight for the papers I use.

On a different point, allow me to mention a process which I've used in the
past that is a distant parent of yours.  It goes along the following:
1.  Print and process your print the ususal way.
2.  Go to the nearest laser copy machine and get a negative image from the
copymachine, the size of the final print you want to make.
3.  Apply 3-8 coats of Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium, letting dry between
coats and applying each coat cross-wise to the previous one.  Fewer coats
will give you a more fragile base while many coats will give you a coarser
base to work with latter.
4.  Soak in warm water and slowly peel the paper from the acrylic base.  The
(negative) image will stick to the base.  The base will look rather milky
when dry.
5.  Use this negative to make a contact print.  If the negative is small
enough (e.g. 4x5), you can put it in your favorite 4x5 enlarger and the
criss-cross texture of the acrylic base will show much more on your print.
If you happen to have an 8x10 enlarger in your darkroom, then all the
better.  The texture will  look as if the print was printed on linen cloth.

Cheers,

Guy






[pinhole-discussion] Re: Bellows factor

2001-11-30 Thread Guy Glorieux

G.Penate wrote:

  just plain physics of light.
 This case is in no way different than if you were using a glass lens.
 snip
 84.5 seconds (uncorrected for reciprocity, time)

Guillermo,
Can you remind me how you worked this out.
Guy