[Quantum Owners] New xtreme owner

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Apologies in advance, this is a double post from the proboards Quantum 
group.

I have an Oxford Blue Xtreme that I bought a couple of weeks back.

It is running a bit hot at times (it is quite content up to 75mph 
continuous and just flying about but if i push on up to 85mph it will rise 
to 100 degrees and then struggle to come back down even with a decent cool 
down cruise. Running the fan manually only seems to do so much (it is 
blowing through correctly - not running backwards).

The story so far is:
-The expansion tank cap threads were tired and jumped so I have put a 
replacement bottle on.
-The top rad hose was down to canvas in places with a couple of big cracks 
almost all the way through which I have replaced.
-The heater was plumbed in copper heating pipe which looked to have been 
leaking at the joint with the rubber pipe. Replaced with silicone heater 
hose and proper clips.
-I have added a fill point to the top radiator hose highest point so I can 
get the air out for definite.
-If found that if I let it get really hot I can see the tiniest little 
bubble occasionally coming from a pin prick hole in the radiator top tank 
(needs repairing). Top of rad is slightly deformed near this pin hole where 
bleed screw (temp sensor hole?) looks to have been yanked on too hard to 
free it off. Otherwise rad is pretty good condition.
-Next check is to check existence and condition of correct thermostat.
-Mixture is overly rich at the mo (can see puffs of black smoke on part 
throttle occasionally on twin 40s) so it shouldn't be that. Trying to get 
it dynoed / set-up once cooling is behaving.
-Ignition timing has vacuum capped off so need to check timing is ball park 
with a strobe.
-Check calibration on temp gauge in case it is lying.
-After that I was going to put a bit more cooling through bonnet by cutting 
some nice holes in it (it has 5 round holes probably 1" or so in there 
already. It gets really hot under the bonnet.

Spoke to quantum about just buying a new radiator but they dont do them 
anymore? Design has changed on newer cars post 2010 and old one isn't 
available.

I am assuming the stock system of quantum radiator on a fairly mild 2.0 
pinto should be man enough for the job.

So the questions are:
-Does anyone know if the quantum rad is an out-and-out special or does it 
come from somewhere else (it is donor sierra according to the list).
-Are there any obvious mods to get more air moving over it (ducts and holes 
etc). I have seen on the v8 xtreme thread that Chris is running the 
radiator upright where mine is laid back against the chassis at an angle
-Is there a more modern alternative rad.
-Is getting rid of under bonnet heat more relevant as big SPAL fan is 
ultimately blowing a lot of the heat under the bonnet.
-What sort of ignition advance do you run on a 2.0 pinto with a mild cam 
and no vacuum advance.


Loads of questions!!I am not expecting it to able to sit for hours on the 
M25 with the engine running but I was figuring I should be able to do 85mph 
at 20 degrees air temp.

Simon

Read more: 
http://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/953/new-xtreme-owner#ixzz3ABR56os2

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Re: [Quantum Owners] New xtreme owner

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Thanks, that looks identical to mine in just about every way.

Just need to work through things in order now and see if I can get it to 
behave a bit better.

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 2:39:46 PM UTC+1, Chris Xtreme wrote:
>
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/116862370669776250647/albums/5627862055215046401
>
> scroll down towards the bottom and you will see how my 2.0l pinto powered 
> xtreme looked. I don't recall having overheating issues with it at all.
>
> as long as the thermostat is opening i would have thought the standard Q 
> setup should be fine.
>
> ah now timing that could be a very good point.  I changed the cam to a 
> fr30 and went round to atspeed for a rr session. he adjusted the weights in 
> the standard dizzy to adjust the timing curve. I am sure he mentioned 
> something like 14degrees out. It wasn't the idle timeing that was the 
> problem but the under load timing that changes as the dizzy spins up.
>
> I was running up to 100c but back down to something sensible post 
> adjustment.
>
>
> On 12 August 2014 14:18, Simon Raglione-Hall  > wrote:
>
>> Apologies in advance, this is a double post from the proboards Quantum 
>> group.
>>
>> I have an Oxford Blue Xtreme that I bought a couple of weeks back.
>>
>> It is running a bit hot at times (it is quite content up to 75mph 
>> continuous and just flying about but if i push on up to 85mph it will rise 
>> to 100 degrees and then struggle to come back down even with a decent cool 
>> down cruise. Running the fan manually only seems to do so much (it is 
>> blowing through correctly - not running backwards).
>>
>> The story so far is:
>> -The expansion tank cap threads were tired and jumped so I have put a 
>> replacement bottle on.
>> -The top rad hose was down to canvas in places with a couple of big 
>> cracks almost all the way through which I have replaced.
>> -The heater was plumbed in copper heating pipe which looked to have been 
>> leaking at the joint with the rubber pipe. Replaced with silicone heater 
>> hose and proper clips.
>> -I have added a fill point to the top radiator hose highest point so I 
>> can get the air out for definite.
>> -If found that if I let it get really hot I can see the tiniest little 
>> bubble occasionally coming from a pin prick hole in the radiator top tank 
>> (needs repairing). Top of rad is slightly deformed near this pin hole where 
>> bleed screw (temp sensor hole?) looks to have been yanked on too hard to 
>> free it off. Otherwise rad is pretty good condition.
>> -Next check is to check existence and condition of correct thermostat.
>> -Mixture is overly rich at the mo (can see puffs of black smoke on part 
>> throttle occasionally on twin 40s) so it shouldn't be that. Trying to get 
>> it dynoed / set-up once cooling is behaving.
>> -Ignition timing has vacuum capped off so need to check timing is ball 
>> park with a strobe.
>> -Check calibration on temp gauge in case it is lying.
>> -After that I was going to put a bit more cooling through bonnet by 
>> cutting some nice holes in it (it has 5 round holes probably 1" or so in 
>> there already. It gets really hot under the bonnet.
>>
>> Spoke to quantum about just buying a new radiator but they dont do them 
>> anymore? Design has changed on newer cars post 2010 and old one isn't 
>> available.
>>
>> I am assuming the stock system of quantum radiator on a fairly mild 2.0 
>> pinto should be man enough for the job.
>>
>> So the questions are:
>> -Does anyone know if the quantum rad is an out-and-out special or does it 
>> come from somewhere else (it is donor sierra according to the list).
>> -Are there any obvious mods to get more air moving over it (ducts and 
>> holes etc). I have seen on the v8 xtreme thread that Chris is running the 
>> radiator upright where mine is laid back against the chassis at an angle
>> -Is there a more modern alternative rad.
>> -Is getting rid of under bonnet heat more relevant as big SPAL fan is 
>> ultimately blowing a lot of the heat under the bonnet.
>> -What sort of ignition advance do you run on a 2.0 pinto with a mild cam 
>> and no vacuum advance.
>>
>>
>> Loads of questions!!I am not expecting it to able to sit for hours on the 
>> M25 with the engine running but I was figuring I should be able to do 85mph 
>> at 20 degrees air temp.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>> Read more: 
>> http://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/953/new-xtreme-owner#ixzz3ABR56os2
>>  
>> -- 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because y

Re: [Quantum Owners] New xtreme owner

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Looks like stock ford as far as i can tell, haven't even got as far as 
taking dizzy cap off yet.

The engine was originally from an '88 injected sierra so I am assuming it 
is using a pickup rather than points.

Engine starts and fires brilliantly so I had been leaving it until a bit 
later but I am thinking it is time to dig out my timing light.

I read somewhere that the standard timing marks on a pinto are woefully 
inaccurate too so may have to have #1 plug out to double check the location 
of TDC.

On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 4:24:32 PM UTC+1, Chris Xtreme wrote:
>
> what is your ignition setup ? stock ford or some after market? is it a 
> standard dizzy?
>
>
>
>
> On 12 August 2014 14:46, Simon Raglione-Hall  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks, that looks identical to mine in just about every way.
>>
>> Just need to work through things in order now and see if I can get it to 
>> behave a bit better.
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 2:39:46 PM UTC+1, Chris Xtreme wrote:
>>
>>> https://plus.google.com/photos/116862370669776250647/
>>> albums/5627862055215046401
>>>
>>> scroll down towards the bottom and you will see how my 2.0l pinto 
>>> powered xtreme looked. I don't recall having overheating issues with it at 
>>> all.
>>>
>>> as long as the thermostat is opening i would have thought the standard Q 
>>> setup should be fine.
>>>
>>> ah now timing that could be a very good point.  I changed the cam to a 
>>> fr30 and went round to atspeed for a rr session. he adjusted the weights in 
>>> the standard dizzy to adjust the timing curve. I am sure he mentioned 
>>> something like 14degrees out. It wasn't the idle timeing that was the 
>>> problem but the under load timing that changes as the dizzy spins up.
>>>
>>> I was running up to 100c but back down to something sensible post 
>>> adjustment.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12 August 2014 14:18, Simon Raglione-Hall  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Apologies in advance, this is a double post from the proboards Quantum 
>>>> group.
>>>>
>>>> I have an Oxford Blue Xtreme that I bought a couple of weeks back.
>>>>
>>>> It is running a bit hot at times (it is quite content up to 75mph 
>>>> continuous and just flying about but if i push on up to 85mph it will rise 
>>>> to 100 degrees and then struggle to come back down even with a decent cool 
>>>> down cruise. Running the fan manually only seems to do so much (it is 
>>>> blowing through correctly - not running backwards).
>>>>
>>>> The story so far is:
>>>> -The expansion tank cap threads were tired and jumped so I have put a 
>>>> replacement bottle on.
>>>> -The top rad hose was down to canvas in places with a couple of big 
>>>> cracks almost all the way through which I have replaced.
>>>> -The heater was plumbed in copper heating pipe which looked to have 
>>>> been leaking at the joint with the rubber pipe. Replaced with silicone 
>>>> heater hose and proper clips.
>>>> -I have added a fill point to the top radiator hose highest point so I 
>>>> can get the air out for definite.
>>>> -If found that if I let it get really hot I can see the tiniest little 
>>>> bubble occasionally coming from a pin prick hole in the radiator top tank 
>>>> (needs repairing). Top of rad is slightly deformed near this pin hole 
>>>> where 
>>>> bleed screw (temp sensor hole?) looks to have been yanked on too hard to 
>>>> free it off. Otherwise rad is pretty good condition.
>>>> -Next check is to check existence and condition of correct thermostat.
>>>> -Mixture is overly rich at the mo (can see puffs of black smoke on part 
>>>> throttle occasionally on twin 40s) so it shouldn't be that. Trying to get 
>>>> it dynoed / set-up once cooling is behaving.
>>>> -Ignition timing has vacuum capped off so need to check timing is ball 
>>>> park with a strobe.
>>>> -Check calibration on temp gauge in case it is lying.
>>>> -After that I was going to put a bit more cooling through bonnet by 
>>>> cutting some nice holes in it (it has 5 round holes probably 1" or so in 
>>>> there already. It gets really hot under the bonnet.
>>>>
>>>> Spoke to quantum about just buying a new radiator but they dont do them 
>>>> anymore? Design has changed on newer cars post 2010 and old one isn

[Quantum Owners] Re: Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Mine is 2003, 2.0 pinto with twin webers, cam etc. 4k miles and I paid 4.8k 
for it a few months back.

On Thursday, September 11, 2014 8:00:32 AM UTC+1, Graham wrote:
>
> Hi 
> I wonder if anyone knows a ballpark price for a 2004 Xtreme fitted with 
> a2l pinto and 7500 miles on clock
> Thanks
> Graham
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>

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[Quantum Owners] Xtreme scuttle / dash moulding

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

I am just in the middle of having an "is it really supposed to be like this?" 
moment. 
I am just trying to change my wing mirrors and at the same time sort a Rattle. 
In order to get the nuts off the rear of the mirrors I need to get behind the 
dash. In order to get behind the dash the whole moulding has to come out. In 
order to get the moulding out you have to remove the column shroud,  stalks and 
steering wheel. 
Even then all the wiring looks like it will have to be pulled about to get my 
hand in there. 
am I missing a trick? 
There are only actually 4 fasteners holding this whole moulding in place. 2 in 
the scuttle area and 2 on the dash rail of the chassis across the cockpit. When 
you go over bumps,  it rattles about and bounces a bit at the rear like it 
should be screwed down more? 

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[Quantum Owners] Xtreme bits

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Craig,  I would be interested in the first 3 items,  where in the country are 
you? 

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[Quantum Owners] Xtreme bits

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Craig would you be willing to Box it up if I could then arrange for DHL to 
collect from you at work or something? 

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[Quantum Owners] Xtreme bits

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Craig,  I would be interested in the first 3 items,  where in the country are 
you? 

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[Quantum Owners] Xtreme nearside front wing stay / support

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

If any one has one of these they would like to sell then get please in touch. I 
had a good nose round the cars at Stoneleigh and found out why mine doesn't 
work and what I need to do to fix it. 

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[Quantum Owners] Re: Xtreme nearside front wing stay / support

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Hi James, 

I currently have the 2.5 (2 main brackets and a small stay) piece option 
each side made out of round bar.
They are seriously asymmetric and rub heavily on the drivers side on one of 
my my new tyres. They also dont sit flat
I have removed them and tried to even them up but they are badly fitted and 
not very well made.
The current model made out of flat bar looks an infinitely better solution. 
I will have to make a bracket to replace the rear mounting ear on the hub 
but it is a better long term solution.

I was previously given a drivers side one by a member and I am trying to 
source a passenger side one.

Simon

On Monday, May 4, 2015 at 7:26:29 PM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>
> If any one has one of these they would like to sell then get please in 
> touch. I had a good nose round the cars at Stoneleigh and found out why 
> mine doesn't work and what I need to do to fix it. 

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[Quantum Owners] Re: Xtreme owners across the UK

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Buckden, Cambridgeshire. Anyone in that area would have seen it being 
recovered last night!



On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 9:20:52 AM UTC+1, ricky deacon wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>  
> I just wanted to find out where all of the Xtreme owners are located 
> across the UK.
>  
> I have never seen another Xtreme other than my own in all the time I have 
> had this car (apart from online obviously)
>  
> I am based in South Wales just outside Cardiff
>  
> The other reason is I was hoping to get some kind of local meet (local 
> meaning within 50 miles of me)
>  
> So where are you all?
>  
> Cheers
>  
> Ricky
>

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[Quantum Owners] Re: Xtreme owners across the UK

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

I am in Buckden, Cambridgeshire although the Xtreme and I only got there on 
the back of a truck last night after it let me down on the way home from 
work.

On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 9:20:52 AM UTC+1, ricky deacon wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>  
> I just wanted to find out where all of the Xtreme owners are located 
> across the UK.
>  
> I have never seen another Xtreme other than my own in all the time I have 
> had this car (apart from online obviously)
>  
> I am based in South Wales just outside Cardiff
>  
> The other reason is I was hoping to get some kind of local meet (local 
> meaning within 50 miles of me)
>  
> So where are you all?
>  
> Cheers
>  
> Ricky
>

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[Quantum Owners] Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.

Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car 
place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so 
they stayed true.

Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them and 
put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web 
before doing but sierras are like that apparently).

THEN

Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in 
future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.

Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball joints 
as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread pitch on 
main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and fitted 
them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters into 
hubs and refitted everything so hubs were done.

Went to fit back into A-Arms and they wont go! The threads go in 2 or 3 
turns on all joints then stop. Checked old joints still fit, they are fine.

Assumed thread must be mismatching in some way. Attacked with a vernier and 
I can't find a "proper" difference between the 2.

The old ones measure 33.85mm OD across the threads, the new ones measure 
about 33.93mm OD across the threads.On a thread liek this that would seem 
like a normal tolerance.

The old ones measure 7.7 / 7.8 across 5 thread pitches so approx 1.55mm 
pitch.And so it seems do the new ones. Again, holding them up to the light 
engaged with each other looks correct too.

Firstly, any ideas what on earth is going on? My kit was a '99 purchase 
(SVA 2003)

I would assume if it was a metric / imperial thread mismatch or something 
there would be a proper difference. I also can't tie this thread down to a 
specific standard size to know what dimensions are actually correct.

Any help appreciated at this stage

Simon

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[Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

An unsuccessful update.

Thanks for the input from everyone firstly.

I have checked the obvious suggestions from people (i.e. have i got them 
the right way up) and all seems to be correct.

Dimensionally all dims on the new balljoints just seem to be "top limit" on 
what you would measure on an M34 x 1.5 thread.

So I have tried the following:


   - Remeasured all thread dims and confirmed they seem to be M34 x 1.5 
   which does exist as a thread size
   - Obtaining a thread restoring Inside / outside file. Cleaned up the 
   nuts that are welded into the A arms down their length so there is no gunk 
   in any thread or burrs. Used it to make sure the ball joint threadforms are 
   OK too.
   - Obtained a 46mm Open ended spanner to do the job properly.
   - Purchased a different brand of ball joint from a different stockist 
   (same issue).
   - Tried an alternative ball joint shown as belonging to certain metros 
   FBJ 5150. Same issue
   - Tried winding the joints in, backing out, cleaning thread, advancing, 
   removing and checking every few turns as i go to ensure no damage.I got one 
   hub fitted but the tightness is unreal. We are talking both hands pulling 
   full hard on the end of a 15-18" wrench.Chances of slipping and rounding 
   off a nut are too high for my liking when the original joints are little 
   more than finger tight.
   - Tried applying a gear lubricant (high pressure tolerance against being 
   forced out) to each thread as i go to ease it. No real difference
   - Tried using a hot air gun to warm the arms, this works a bit BUT I am 
   worried that I will never get the damn things out ever again.
   

Tomorrow the motor factors are getting me an MG -TF ball joint to try as it 
is the only other Rover product in the whole book that looks the same (even 
though the joint would come from a car much newer than my quantum).

It feels for all the world like tightening a parallel thread into a taper 
thread hole.

Frustrated and confused!!

On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 9:38:50 AM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>
> My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.
>
> Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car 
> place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so 
> they stayed true.
>
> Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them 
> and put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web 
> before doing but sierras are like that apparently).
>
> THEN
>
> Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in 
> future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.
>
> Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball 
> joints as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread 
> pitch on main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and 
> fitted them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters 
> into hubs and refitted everything so hubs were done.
>
> Went to fit back into A-Arms and they wont go! The threads go in 2 or 3 
> turns on all joints then stop. Checked old joints still fit, they are fine.
>
> Assumed thread must be mismatching in some way. Attacked with a vernier 
> and I can't find a "proper" difference between the 2.
>
> The old ones measure 33.85mm OD across the threads, the new ones measure 
> about 33.93mm OD across the threads.On a thread liek this that would seem 
> like a normal tolerance.
>
> The old ones measure 7.7 / 7.8 across 5 thread pitches so approx 1.55mm 
> pitch.And so it seems do the new ones. Again, holding them up to the light 
> engaged with each other looks correct too.
>
> Firstly, any ideas what on earth is going on? My kit was a '99 purchase 
> (SVA 2003)
>
> I would assume if it was a metric / imperial thread mismatch or something 
> there would be a proper difference. I also can't tie this thread down to a 
> specific standard size to know what dimensions are actually correct.
>
> Any help appreciated at this stage
>
> Simon
>

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, o

Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Hi Jim,

I should have said, I have polished the OD with some emery to remove the
peaks on the threads too (before i got the thread file)
I have put the ball joint threads in a digital caliper, end on and the new
joints are definitely parallel thread.
There is ever such a slight taper on the old joints but not significant. I
will remeasure and give you the figures.
I currently have a guy who I know with a machine shop looking to borrow an
M34 parallel tap on my behalf.

On Thu, Aug 27, 2015 at 2:04 PM, Jim Hearne  wrote:

> A very strange problem.
>
> If you fit one of the joints until it starts getting really tight and then
> remove it, can you see from the shiny spots on the thread where it is
> rubbing ?
> On the face of the threads or just on the crest or root of it ?
>
> Having cut threads on a lathe you often find that it is still tight to fit
> in the other part even though it’s strictly speaking in spec.
> Holding a bit of emery cloth on the thread while spinning it in the lathe
> for a few seconds just rounds off the crests of the thread and it fits
> nicely.
> If the nut or the balljoints have very sharp crests to the threads it
> could be worth rubbing some emery round them just to take the sharp crest
> off.
> It would have no significant affect on the thread strength.
>
> Can you measure with some digital calipers if either of the threads are
> taper ?
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Simon Raglione-Hall 
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 27, 2015 1:17 PM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme
>
> An unsuccessful update.
>
> Thanks for the input from everyone firstly.
>
> I have checked the obvious suggestions from people (i.e. have i got them
> the right way up) and all seems to be correct.
>
> Dimensionally all dims on the new balljoints just seem to be "top limit"
> on what you would measure on an M34 x 1.5 thread.
>
> So I have tried the following:
>
>
>- Remeasured all thread dims and confirmed they seem to be M34 x 1.5
>which does exist as a thread size
>- Obtaining a thread restoring Inside / outside file. Cleaned up the
>nuts that are welded into the A arms down their length so there is no gunk
>in any thread or burrs. Used it to make sure the ball joint threadforms are
>OK too.
>- Obtained a 46mm Open ended spanner to do the job properly.
>- Purchased a different brand of ball joint from a different stockist
>(same issue).
>- Tried an alternative ball joint shown as belonging to certain metros
>FBJ 5150. Same issue
>- Tried winding the joints in, backing out, cleaning thread,
>advancing, removing and checking every few turns as i go to ensure no
>damage.I got one hub fitted but the tightness is unreal. We are talking
>both hands pulling full hard on the end of a 15-18" wrench.Chances of
>slipping and rounding off a nut are too high for my liking when the
>original joints are little more than finger tight.
>- Tried applying a gear lubricant (high pressure tolerance against
>being forced out) to each thread as i go to ease it. No real difference
>- Tried using a hot air gun to warm the arms, this works a bit BUT I
>am worried that I will never get the damn things out ever again.
>
>
> Tomorrow the motor factors are getting me an MG -TF ball joint to try as
> it is the only other Rover product in the whole book that looks the same
> (even though the joint would come from a car much newer than my quantum).
>
> It feels for all the world like tightening a parallel thread into a taper
> thread hole.
>
> Frustrated and confused!!
>
> On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 9:38:50 AM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>>
>> My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.
>>
>> Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car
>> place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so
>> they stayed true.
>>
>> Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them
>> and put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web
>> before doing but sierras are like that apparently).
>>
>> THEN
>>
>> Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in
>> future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.
>>
>> Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball
>> joints as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread
>> pitch on main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and
>> fitted them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters
>

[Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Good news for the weekend: I have a solution.

The guy who has been helping me In Motoserv, the parts place in Kempston, 
got me the MGTF ball joint in that I requested as my last chance saloon but 
also (after reading this thread!) took a punt and got a sample of DELPHI 
branded version of the original type I already have from both first line 
and FAI.

And guess what? The Delphi fits fine. A little snugger than finger tight 
but not a patch on the stuff I have currently

I can't get a full set in until the middle of next week but if I get it 
fixed, who cares?

I am going to take these old ones out on all 4 positions as I just know 
they will get stuck at some point in the future.

Chuck them in the bin and write it off as a bad job and a lesson learned

On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 9:38:50 AM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>
> My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.
>
> Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car 
> place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so 
> they stayed true.
>
> Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them 
> and put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web 
> before doing but sierras are like that apparently).
>
> THEN
>
> Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in 
> future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.
>
> Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball 
> joints as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread 
> pitch on main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and 
> fitted them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters 
> into hubs and refitted everything so hubs were done.
>
> Went to fit back into A-Arms and they wont go! The threads go in 2 or 3 
> turns on all joints then stop. Checked old joints still fit, they are fine.
>
> Assumed thread must be mismatching in some way. Attacked with a vernier 
> and I can't find a "proper" difference between the 2.
>
> The old ones measure 33.85mm OD across the threads, the new ones measure 
> about 33.93mm OD across the threads.On a thread liek this that would seem 
> like a normal tolerance.
>
> The old ones measure 7.7 / 7.8 across 5 thread pitches so approx 1.55mm 
> pitch.And so it seems do the new ones. Again, holding them up to the light 
> engaged with each other looks correct too.
>
> Firstly, any ideas what on earth is going on? My kit was a '99 purchase 
> (SVA 2003)
>
> I would assume if it was a metric / imperial thread mismatch or something 
> there would be a proper difference. I also can't tie this thread down to a 
> specific standard size to know what dimensions are actually correct.
>
> Any help appreciated at this stage
>
> Simon
>

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

Thanks Jim,

The problem with returning the joints is the 3.5mm hole drilled through the
small end thread on each one to secure them in to the adapter.
I can return the FAI one hopefully still as it has never been used.

The guy at Motorserv has given me a discount on the new ones so they don't
work out to spicey.

If a tap comes out of the woodwork between now and fitting them then I will
run them through. My tap set only goes to M24 and the next common size is
M36 with M34 being a weird one.

On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Jim Hearne  wrote:

> Glad to hear it’s fixed.
>
> So the others must have been just too high on the tolerance of the thread
> to fit in the Quantum nuts.
> Or could be the Quantum thread was slightly on the small size, maybe they
> used Delphi parts when they designed it.
>
> Might be worth going back to where you got them from and seeing if you can
> get a refund.
>
> Running the M34 tap into the nuts would probably let them take either make
> of joint without a problem, just go a little at a time so you don’t take
> out more than you need.
>
> Jim
>
>
> *From:* Simon Raglione-Hall 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 28, 2015 1:54 PM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme
>
> Good news for the weekend: I have a solution.
>
> The guy who has been helping me In Motoserv, the parts place in Kempston,
> got me the MGTF ball joint in that I requested as my last chance saloon but
> also (after reading this thread!) took a punt and got a sample of DELPHI
> branded version of the original type I already have from both first line
> and FAI.
>
> And guess what? The Delphi fits fine. A little snugger than finger tight
> but not a patch on the stuff I have currently
>
> I can't get a full set in until the middle of next week but if I get it
> fixed, who cares?
>
> I am going to take these old ones out on all 4 positions as I just know
> they will get stuck at some point in the future.
>
> Chuck them in the bin and write it off as a bad job and a lesson learned
>
> On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 9:38:50 AM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>>
>> My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.
>>
>> Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car
>> place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so
>> they stayed true.
>>
>> Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them
>> and put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web
>> before doing but sierras are like that apparently).
>>
>> THEN
>>
>> Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in
>> future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.
>>
>> Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball
>> joints as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread
>> pitch on main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and
>> fitted them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters
>> into hubs and refitted everything so hubs were done.
>>
>> Went to fit back into A-Arms and they wont go! The threads go in 2 or 3
>> turns on all joints then stop. Checked old joints still fit, they are fine.
>>
>> Assumed thread must be mismatching in some way. Attacked with a vernier
>> and I can't find a "proper" difference between the 2.
>>
>> The old ones measure 33.85mm OD across the threads, the new ones measure
>> about 33.93mm OD across the threads.On a thread liek this that would seem
>> like a normal tolerance.
>>
>> The old ones measure 7.7 / 7.8 across 5 thread pitches so approx 1.55mm
>> pitch.And so it seems do the new ones. Again, holding them up to the light
>> engaged with each other looks correct too.
>>
>> Firstly, any ideas what on earth is going on? My kit was a '99 purchase
>> (SVA 2003)
>>
>> I would assume if it was a metric / imperial thread mismatch or something
>> there would be a proper difference. I also can't tie this thread down to a
>> specific standard size to know what dimensions are actually correct.
>>
>> Any help appreciated at this stage
>>
>> Simon
>>
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> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
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[Quantum Owners] Re: Front ball joints on Xtreme

[Simon Raglione-Hall]

I fitted my Delphi, MGF ball joints and took car for MOT.
At which point the MOT system collapsed.
So I tried again monday and passed. I am still on a hand written document 
for now but the digital version will catch up next time it is available.

On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 9:38:50 AM UTC+1, Simon Raglione-Hall wrote:
>
> My Xtreme failed its MOT on both crunchy front wheel bearings.
>
> Stripped the hub assemblies right out, took the bare hubs to a local car 
> place to get the tapered races pressed out and and new ones pressed in so 
> they stayed true.
>
> Packed new bearings with grease, got my uber huge torque wrench on them 
> and put 320Nm torque on the nuts (read that about 50 times all over the web 
> before doing but sierras are like that apparently).
>
> THEN
>
> Decided to replace ball joints while I had it in bits to save time in 
> future. Stripped those out, salvaged Quantum adapter bushes.
>
> Bought x4 MGF (those or later metros are the correct ones?) top ball 
> joints as research seems to suggest that is what they are, checked thread 
> pitch on main OD against old ones by engaging them against each other and 
> fitted them up. Split pinned ball joint threads, blue loctite on adapters 
> into hubs and refitted everything so hubs were done.
>
> Went to fit back into A-Arms and they wont go! The threads go in 2 or 3 
> turns on all joints then stop. Checked old joints still fit, they are fine.
>
> Assumed thread must be mismatching in some way. Attacked with a vernier 
> and I can't find a "proper" difference between the 2.
>
> The old ones measure 33.85mm OD across the threads, the new ones measure 
> about 33.93mm OD across the threads.On a thread liek this that would seem 
> like a normal tolerance.
>
> The old ones measure 7.7 / 7.8 across 5 thread pitches so approx 1.55mm 
> pitch.And so it seems do the new ones. Again, holding them up to the light 
> engaged with each other looks correct too.
>
> Firstly, any ideas what on earth is going on? My kit was a '99 purchase 
> (SVA 2003)
>
> I would assume if it was a metric / imperial thread mismatch or something 
> there would be a proper difference. I also can't tie this thread down to a 
> specific standard size to know what dimensions are actually correct.
>
> Any help appreciated at this stage
>
> Simon
>

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).
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