[RBW] Re: cable splitters/bar quick change question
Seth, I have a set of the cable spiltters on my Rivendell All-Rounder and a set on a Santana Tandem; both bikes have SS couplers. The cable spiltters work well, the only thing I have had to do is start replacing some of the black o-rings after 5-10 years. The spillter for the brake cable is a bit larger than the derailleur cable splitters. Angus On Jan 24, 8:39 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, I bought an atlantis frame/fork today. I'm now working on getting all the parts together to bring it whole. I've found that I enjoy riding with both albatross bars and drops. Just for different types of riding. I would like to be able to swap between the two without an enormous amount of work. So I was looking around at various places about ss coupled bikes and I found these:http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm I was wondering if anyone had any experience with any of these and thought they'd be worth a try? I'm willing to have two stems, different levers and shifters, if it means being able to unhook the cables, unhook the front brake straddle, unbolt the stem and swap to the other bars and be ready to go. Has anyone done this? Will I run into other problems? Thanks, -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Bicycle Valet at Obama Inauguration 2009
Yes indeed! I put up a few video on Qik of some erily deserted DC streets and bridges. I was just tooling around, alone on some major thoroughfares, in the middle of the day. I stopped several times to make photos, and all I could hear was wind. Wild. Then I pedaled back across Chain Bridge into my VA neighborhood, and it was back to reality . . . Bob On Jan 21, 6:35 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: I was at the inauguration and it seemed afterwards, depending on where you were headed, it was a great day to be on a bike in DC with so many streets closed to cars. The vibe in DC was amazing. Everyone was in high spririts and so gracious. Sounds like the bike parking went smooth, I wish I could say as much for getting into the inauguration, what a nightmare. But it was worth it. Now back to Portland and my bicycles. --mike On Jan 21, 4:40 am, Bob linthi...@gmail.com wrote: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robertlinthicum/3213101340/ I rode down to watch our new president sworn into office. WABA volunteers did a great job of encouraging bicycling to the Inauguration. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: If You Rerake The Fork On A Riv BIke Is It Still A Riv Bike?
On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 8:48 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: This is like the philosophical question that led to me abandoning bicycle discussion boards for a couple years starting around 2004. The OP of that particular discussion asked if his acquisition of an Atlantis or Rambouillet justified his referring to himself as a Rivendell Owner. Some owners of custom Rivendells decided that the word Rivendell had too much cachet for owners of lowly and compromised Atlantises and Rambouillets. By that standard, your Rambouillet doesn't qualify as a Rivendell even in its pristine state. So you have nothing to lose, cachet-wise, by re-raking the fork. I usually hate email abbreviations, but in this case, ROTFLOL, or even better, ROTFFLOL!! Lessee, lessee, less take this idea and move forward with it. OK, my Rivs are customs, so they're real Rivs; well, at least the last two, for the first one was built by Waterford, not a Rivendell owned builder chained whimpering to his alignment table with Grant standing over him with a whip. But, OTOH (alright, I'll stop), they have smallish frames for my height and leg length and they use substandard wheels (559/571). So once again, are they genyoowine Rivs? And #3 was modified by local builder Dave Porter for fixed use. Does that make it recede from the dim, shimmering, ethereal ideal of Rivendellishness? If I use MKS (Keirin approved!!!) track pedals on my commuter Riv, but lowly Christophe straps and Kucharik toe covers, do I augment or diminish my Rivendellishness? Must I subtract points for every cm the bar is below saddle? And Flites instead of Brookses ... come now! We could carry on this thread for a decade! I say, let's have a contest to see who can pare down the concept, Genyoowine Riv Ownership to the smallest population. What fun! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 8:11 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi Patrick, It is in the 'single speed garage' section and is bike #91. You'll have to click on the most updated version. It is also featured on the left column of the page about the second one down or so. I think I have this right. Let me know what you think. I am planning on converting another lugged steel frame made for these parts until I can afford a QB. http://www.cyclofiend.com/ssg/2007/ssg091-charlesvail0607.html That's rather nice. It looks much like my Technium (sold a few years ago) except mine was red and black and may have had longer stays; at least I had no problem with panniers and size 10 shoes. I shod mine with some 35 mm white fatties for a very nice, cush ride. Wish I'd kept it. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Where does name A. Homer Hilsen come from?
Keven, at Riv, did originally suggest the Pasela. I liked the idea of the lighter Jack Brown Green. Riv does not suggest the Greens for off road, but they do mention that at least one of their own uses them quite a bit off road. I have become very good at taking care of flat tires, spare tube, patch kit (does everybody know you can buy additional patches for the patch kit? i am probably one of the few who ran out of patches before the glue dried up). I commute 12.5 miles to work, and once got a flat on the way there and another on the way home. Only once have I removed an offending thorn. It is possible that some of those flats were the same object (a thorn not found), but I am careful to run my bare hand around both the rim and inside of the tire. All except for one were on the rear tire. Many were after a recent series of storms, so there was extra plant material on the road. All have been on the outside edge of the tube, none at the stem. Once or twice, I was able to see, hear, and feel a small leaking hole on the tread surface of the tire. Most likely this is just bad luck, but if/when I get to make the decision again, I will probably go with the Jack Brown Blue or the Pasela. Thanks for the suggestion on the tube. I will check to be sure I have tubes for the 33. Every time I patch, of course, the probability of getting another flat should decrease, because next time the thorn may be trying to find its way through a patch. Todd On Jan 24, 11:08 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 1/24/09 6:10 PM, Todd Olsen at todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: I got the Jack Brown Greens, but when those wear out, I will probably get something a little thicker, Pasela, because i have gotten too many flats (6-7 in only 350 miles). I know better than to reply to this directly, but I have thisfriend... who got JB Greens on his Hilsen in September of 2007, has run them on all sorts of conditions and now runs them on his Quickbeam. He cannot recall having those flats. As always, YMMV with flats. But, I would recommend checking your tubes. If you have tubes from smaller size (23 - 28 mm's), I've found those to be a bit more susceptible to flats (especially pinch-type) than a larger tube. That does seem like a lot of flats in a short distance - rim tape ok? no burrs at the valve hole? Also, if you think you might ride off road a bit, consider 172.5 or 170 crank rather than 175. I bang my pedals into rocks and the side of the trail quite a bit, and perhaps a little shorter crank will be a little safer. or maybe i should just pay attention a little better. I thought the stock Sugino cranks were 170's. That's what came on mine. I'm now running 172.5's in C. Xavier Hilsen mode. I bang them less often than will my earlier Lemond cross frame. It does take a ride or two to recalibrate foot position. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net ³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice. They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a one-hour bicycle ride.² - Tim Krabbe, The Rider Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Where does name A. Homer Hilsen come from?
Your LBS should have extra patches in bulk they can sell... get Rema if you have the choice. They seem the best to me. If they don't have them, you can buy a 100 count box on the interwebs. DE On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 8:12 AM, Todd Olsen todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: Keven, at Riv, did originally suggest the Pasela. I liked the idea of the lighter Jack Brown Green. Riv does not suggest the Greens for off road, but they do mention that at least one of their own uses them quite a bit off road. I have become very good at taking care of flat tires, spare tube, patch kit (does everybody know you can buy additional patches for the patch kit? i am probably one of the few who ran out of patches before the glue dried up). I commute 12.5 miles to work, and once got a flat on the way there and another on the way home. Only once have I removed an offending thorn. It is possible that some of those flats were the same object (a thorn not found), but I am careful to run my bare hand around both the rim and inside of the tire. All except for one were on the rear tire. Many were after a recent series of storms, so there was extra plant material on the road. All have been on the outside edge of the tube, none at the stem. Once or twice, I was able to see, hear, and feel a small leaking hole on the tread surface of the tire. Most likely this is just bad luck, but if/when I get to make the decision again, I will probably go with the Jack Brown Blue or the Pasela. Thanks for the suggestion on the tube. I will check to be sure I have tubes for the 33. Every time I patch, of course, the probability of getting another flat should decrease, because next time the thorn may be trying to find its way through a patch. Todd On Jan 24, 11:08 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 1/24/09 6:10 PM, Todd Olsen at todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: I got the Jack Brown Greens, but when those wear out, I will probably get something a little thicker, Pasela, because i have gotten too many flats (6-7 in only 350 miles). I know better than to reply to this directly, but I have thisfriend... who got JB Greens on his Hilsen in September of 2007, has run them on all sorts of conditions and now runs them on his Quickbeam. He cannot recall having those flats. As always, YMMV with flats. But, I would recommend checking your tubes. If you have tubes from smaller size (23 - 28 mm's), I've found those to be a bit more susceptible to flats (especially pinch-type) than a larger tube. That does seem like a lot of flats in a short distance - rim tape ok? no burrs at the valve hole? Also, if you think you might ride off road a bit, consider 172.5 or 170 crank rather than 175. I bang my pedals into rocks and the side of the trail quite a bit, and perhaps a little shorter crank will be a little safer. or maybe i should just pay attention a little better. I thought the stock Sugino cranks were 170's. That's what came on mine. I'm now running 172.5's in C. Xavier Hilsen mode. I bang them less often than will my earlier Lemond cross frame. It does take a ride or two to recalibrate foot position. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net ³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice. They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a one-hour bicycle ride.² - Tim Krabbe, The Rider Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Where does name A. Homer Hilsen come from?
On Sun, 2009-01-25 at 08:12 -0800, Todd Olsen wrote: It is possible that some of those flats were the same object (a thorn not found), but I am careful to run my bare hand around both the rim and inside of the tire. Cotton balls are really good for this. Not only to they catch easily, but also when they do they don't puncture your skin, and cotton fluff is a lot easier to clean up than blood. 8=) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Where does name A. Homer Hilsen come from?
Actually, the friend that Jim Edgar was referring to was me, but he missed the details a bit. It was since October 2007 and the JB Green tires were moved over to an Atlantis, not a Quickbeam. But since Jim was kind enough to help me avoid the jinx, I'll do him the same favor: I know for a fact that he hasn't had a flat on his JB Greens and was using them since September 2007 on his Hilsen and now has them on his Quickbeam. -James, another lucky one p.s. I ride mine on fire trails quite a bit. On Jan 24, 2009, at 11:08 PM, CycloFiend wrote: on 1/24/09 6:10 PM, Todd Olsen at todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: I got the Jack Brown Greens, but when those wear out, I will probably get something a little thicker, Pasela, because i have gotten too many flats (6-7 in only 350 miles). I know better than to reply to this directly, but I have thisfriend... who got JB Greens on his Hilsen in September of 2007, has run them on all sorts of conditions and now runs them on his Quickbeam. He cannot recall having those flats. As always, YMMV with flats. But, I would recommend checking your tubes. If you have tubes from smaller size (23 - 28 mm's), I've found those to be a bit more susceptible to flats (especially pinch-type) than a larger tube. That does seem like a lot of flats in a short distance - rim tape ok? no burrs at the valve hole? Also, if you think you might ride off road a bit, consider 172.5 or 170 crank rather than 175. I bang my pedals into rocks and the side of the trail quite a bit, and perhaps a little shorter crank will be a little safer. or maybe i should just pay attention a little better. I thought the stock Sugino cranks were 170's. That's what came on mine. I'm now running 172.5's in C. Xavier Hilsen mode. I bang them less often than will my earlier Lemond cross frame. It does take a ride or two to recalibrate foot position. - Jim -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net “Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice. They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a one-hour bicycle ride.” - Tim Krabbe, The Rider Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the hunt. Thanks. Ryan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivendell Bike Models Page - some updates
I just checked their flicker promos. the dropouts look nice - I like the double eyelets and canti brakes too. anyone know if the Handsome xo style bikes only come in 700c? That makes sense in some size ranges but 26 like the bridgestone xo is great for us smaller people. Where are they made? paint or powder finish? On Jan 24, 9:45 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote: Plain gauge steel tubes, AFAIK. Great promo photography on their Flicks site, though. Particuarly the tall blonde astride a Handsome bike with a six pack of Stella Artois on the front rack... On Jan 24, 12:41 pm, Kelly kingtw...@gmail.com wrote: By the way I've heard rumblings of a company named Handsome Cycles that's coming out with a XO-1 ish bike. The frameset is supposed to sell for $379. Its steel with a TIG welded frame and a lugged fork. I don't know too much about the company because it's new and I'm not sure how much of a go-fast bike it would be, but it's out there. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 12:32 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: The overall effect is that with a limited gear bike you use up your energy climbing a higher than normal gear (faster) instead of hammering along on the flats and gearing down on the climbs. I am not sure how to label it other than to say I use my energy differently. Amen to that, plus you strategize your efforts much more, in other simpler words, you plan ahead. This, to me, is a large part of the fun of single speeding (in my case, mostly fixed). I tried a 60 gear fixed off road for a while, but found the (steeper than road) downhills supremely annoying, and -- with the 175s on it at the time -- found myself flailing angrily and futiley on the flats, so I bumped it up to 64-65 and it was fine. I think given my predilection for mashing, that a 65 gear on road ought to serve me as a 60 gear does you. Thanks for the feedback, that helps me learn what low gear to start with. My Technium was certainly not a high end one, since, even with the aluminum tubing, it was quite a heavyweight. And it had long stays (I ran 32s -- possibly even 35s, I can't remember, but certainly at least 32s; big white tires -- with fenders). It would have made a wonderful QB surrogate and I'm sorry now I sold it. Oh well. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
That's it. So, with a Cassette Cracker and a chain tool and extra chain (or, just a bunch of masterlinks, I could carry what, a dozen cogs with me and have a fixed gear with any ratio I wanted. Sounds like a lot of work! On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 8:41 PM, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: *[dougpnirv] *Patrick wrote: Of which thinking: back in the Uniglide days, when lockrings were screw on small cogs, someone made a portable device for touring kits that allowed you to use the wheel and frame themselves as levers to remove the locking small cog. [dougpnirv] Patrick: The device you recall is called the Cassette Cracker, and they also made one for HG called the Hyper Cracker, on the same principle. Never go on tour without one; it's my good luck totem against broken drive side spokes. dougP --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 12:12 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote: 56 for long rides for me. I like comfortable climbing and the challenge of developing my spin to go faster on the flats. It's also a gear that I can keep pedaling after 90-100 hilly miles. Y'known, after telling Charlie that I think I ought to gear down to 65, perhaps 60 might be a better gear. If I ever do my first (and it will be fixed) century, I'll be sure to have a 60 gear available, along with a 50 for climbing (that might require the Cassette Cracker and masterlinks) and a, say, 65 or 70. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
I am not sure how Bridgestones were intended to be sized/fitted. But I have a 56 c-t (54 c-c) RB-2 and a 57 c-t Romulus. Both have 56.5 top tubes according to published specs and they fit similarly. You'd might want to go by the top tube lengths rather than seat tube lengths. On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote: Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the hunt. Thanks. Ryan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: cable splitters/bar quick change question
On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 9:39 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, I bought an atlantis frame/fork today. I'm now working on getting all the parts together to bring it whole. I've found that I enjoy riding with both albatross bars and drops. Just for different types of riding. I would like to be able to swap between the two without an enormous amount of work. So I was looking around at various places about ss coupled bikes and I found these: http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm I was wondering if anyone had any experience with any of these and thought they'd be worth a try? I'm willing to have two stems, different levers and shifters, if it means being able to unhook the cables, unhook the front brake straddle, unbolt the stem and swap to the other bars and be ready to go. Has anyone done this? Will I run into other problems? Looks like I found an answer: http://perrybessas.com/vf-archives/mirror/?p=14 I think I'll be giving this a try. -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: cable splitters/bar quick change question
I have the Ritchey splitters on my coupled touring bike and they work well, no problems so far. Steve Plymouth, New Hampshire where tomorrows commute is forecast be 0 F On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 6:19 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 4:43 PM, revnine revn...@gmail.com wrote: Those splitters look like something I could use! Anyone have a retail/ online source for ordering them? It looks like ritchey makes some, too. qbp stocks them. -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
Yea.I haven't tried a fixie yet and prefer the ability to coast the downhills. I might like a fixed gear and as I understand them, you can get away with a taller gear due to the inertia effect of the pedals turning constantly. If I were about 75 pounds lighter and 20 years younger I might try riding a fixed gear in the 70 ish range as many do. I think a low 60's fixed gear might be somewhat exhausting for anything over 10 miles. I like the fact that coasting my single speed lets my legs recover and spinning the flats and rolling hills is just relaxing. I really have to work at climbing however as I cannot stand due to a bad left knee/hamstring injury. It buckles on me and going down stairs isn't too solid two years after the initial injury. Guess I should have a surgeon take a look at it...! These days I pick my routes and the bike I use for them and try not to overstress my knees. Bicycling is becoming more of a transportation method for me and I am finding I can go farther with less effort if I take it down a notch or two. I'm not 'car less' just 'income light' these days. Its interesting that you mention your 'extra bag of gears', I actually thought about doing the STP with a single speed and taking an extra chain/freewheel set plus tools if I needed a tall tailwind gear or a super low gear for part of the route. It starts sounding a little nutty after a while but its different and that makes it fun for me. On Jan 25, 12:53 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 12:32 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: The overall effect is that with a limited gear bike you use up your energy climbing a higher than normal gear (faster) instead of hammering along on the flats and gearing down on the climbs. I am not sure how to label it other than to say I use my energy differently. Amen to that, plus you strategize your efforts much more, in other simpler words, you plan ahead. This, to me, is a large part of the fun of single speeding (in my case, mostly fixed). I tried a 60 gear fixed off road for a while, but found the (steeper than road) downhills supremely annoying, and -- with the 175s on it at the time -- found myself flailing angrily and futiley on the flats, so I bumped it up to 64-65 and it was fine. I think given my predilection for mashing, that a 65 gear on road ought to serve me as a 60 gear does you. Thanks for the feedback, that helps me learn what low gear to start with. My Technium was certainly not a high end one, since, even with the aluminum tubing, it was quite a heavyweight. And it had long stays (I ran 32s -- possibly even 35s, I can't remember, but certainly at least 32s; big white tires -- with fenders). It would have made a wonderful QB surrogate and I'm sorry now I sold it. Oh well. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: cable splitters/bar quick change question
I've got whichever cable splitters it is that Bilenky sells. Going on two years, no problems. No splitting/fraying, and I have yet to have to adjust anything when I put the bike back together. Lynne F --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
Harris has the old B'stone catalogs on their site. I've skimmed it there's some geometry info sizing articles. Sheldon scanned them in 04. -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Thomas Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 1:06 PM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing I am not sure how Bridgestones were intended to be sized/fitted. But I have a 56 c-t (54 c-c) RB-2 and a 57 c-t Romulus. Both have 56.5 top tubes according to published specs and they fit similarly. You'd might want to go by the top tube lengths rather than seat tube lengths. On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote: Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the hunt. Thanks. Ryan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Stuff for Sale, Mostly Riv: Nitto, Brooks, Wald, etc.
Mark's Nitto Rack, missing the shorter struts, as shown $60 http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks?a=1page=all#product=20-108 Brooks B.17 Special w/ Copper rails and rivets $75 http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/saddles_and_seat_posts#product=11-006 Nitto Technomic 8cm Stem 22.2mm, 26.0mm used $25 Nitto Ritchey Force Stem from a Bridgestone XO-1, 25.4mm 120mm X 30cm degree (almost a 100mm reach) used $40 Nitto B115 45cm Drop bars Used $20 Wald Metal Baskets from Rivendell One Medium, one large, like new, $12.50 each http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks?a=1page=all#product=20-102 Rivendell Reader #40 early 2008, $5 Basket Net with 4 red hooks. $5.00 http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks?a=1page=all#product=20-100 Stuff not from Riv; hope this is OK (folks may be interested) Soma Smoothie 58cm; like new, tiny tiny paint scratch, with Carbon fork and aluminum seatpost $350 Brooks Leather Bar Tape Not at all like new, $10 RM Handlebar Light Mount from PJW Cycles Like new, mounted, never used $10 http://peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.asp#rmhandlebar Bicycle Quarterly Volume 6 #3 (spring 2008), Summer 2008, Fall 2008, Winter 2008 $25 for all Dia-compe Aero Brake Levers well used, scratched $10 Shimano Nexus BR-R500 Long Reach 57-75mm Caliper Brake $10 Cyclo-Cross Training and Technique Book by Simon Burney $5 Suntour XC Seatpost 27.2 about 300mm long $25.00 Dura Ace Freehub 126mm used $10 Shimano 5 speed free wheel 139B 60 SH-FW5 14X28 new $5 ea (2 available) Acor Aheadset Stem 1 diameter, 130mm extention New $10 Titec Hellbent Handlebars with bar ends $15 Trans it Seatpost Rack used $15 Prices do not include shipping, just want to be fair and just cover my cost, and ... Please try to combine items; would like to ship minimum amounts of $20 Paypal works best for us if possible. Pictures available at http://flickr.com/photos/sea-fisherman/sets/72157606678980740/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivendell vs. Bridgestone sizing
The RB1 is a traditional road racing bike. You could try the on-line bike fit program at www.competitivecyclist.com for a guess at a racing / sporting fit. It returns three different recommendations, which they call the Competitive, Eddy and French fits. Here are my dimensions as measured by my wife, and their recommendations: Measurements --- Inseam:84 Trunk: 62.5 Forearm: 36.5 Arm: 67 Thigh: 60 Lower Leg: 54 Sternal Notch: 147 Total Body Height: 174 The Competitive Fit (cm) --- Seat tube range c-c: 54.4 - 54.9 Seat tube range c-t: 56.1 - 56.6 Top tube length: 55.1 - 55.5 Stem Length: 11.2 - 11.8 BB-Saddle Position:71.9 - 73.9 Saddle-Handlebar: 54.1 - 54.7 Saddle Setback:5.5 - 5.9 The Eddy Fit (cm) --- Seat tube range c-c: 55.6 - 56.1 Seat tube range c-t: 57.3 - 57.8 Top tube length: 55.1 - 55.5 Stem Length: 10.1 - 10.7 BB-Saddle Position:71.1 - 73.1 Saddle-Handlebar: 54.9 - 55.5 Saddle Setback:6.7 - 7.1 The French Fit (cm) --- Seat tube range c-c: 57.3 - 57.8 Seat tube range c-t: 59.0 - 59.5 Top tube length: 56.3 - 56.7 Stem Length: 10.3 - 10.9 BB-Saddle Position:69.4 - 71.4 Saddle-Handlebar: 56.6 - 57.2 Saddle Setback:6.2 - 6.6 For comparison, Grant would put me on a 59 AHH, which has a 58 cm top tube. The Riv fit would probably have more setback, use a shorter stem, and have the bars much higher. The French fit isn't all that far off. IIRC, my 1991 RB1 was a 56, as is my '95 Riv Road which is the RB1's most direct descendant. Bill On Jan 25, 11:51 am, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote: Certainly the geometries are freely available, but I was curious to hear about folks' experiences in comparing the sizes. Would a general rule of thumb to go, say, a size down, or keep it the same? All this talk about RB-1s, etc. is causing me to consider getting into the hunt. Thanks. Ryan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Let There Be Quickbeam (Orders).
I rode fixed on a 40x15 for some time, but found a 40x14 to be better for my commute and rides up to around 30 miles. Over the last 4 months I've switched back to freewheel mode, with a 16T White Industries freewheel and a 46T up front and no small ring - I just didn't find myself using it. A few of the rollers and short climbs in Portola Valley and Woodside are a bit of a grind, but I really like taking the QB out for pleasure, especially when its spitting rain Freewheeling is nice (compared to fixed) - it really has introduced me to how well the bike corners. -br On Jan 24, 5:11 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 5:36 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: I think the Quickbeam concept of a non derailleur or hub gearing system is appealing to many, myself included. It is simple and solves the problem of adequately handling varied terrain without too much convenience. I like the ability of making it a four speed for that occasional long steep climb up towards our local mountain or the ability to add a slightly higher ratio for a ride such as Seattle to Portland. When I get enough money together I would like a QB as my poor mans version of it is not ideal. The problem with just adding a three cog in the back is that you won't get the wider range of ratios that you would using that 32 tooth up front with perhaps a 22 tooth on the flip side or a fixed 14 tooth and the 40 tooth for flat rides. the neat thing is the QB allows one to set it up as they prefer for their type of terrain. If a guy has Charles 'Atlast' legs and an ideal power to weight ratio he can often get away with just one gear. An IG hub is nice but is still more complicated and fragile at least in one respect. For riding off road I'd rather have a freewheeling non derailleur setup. As a road commuter bike it would make more sense to have an internal HG if your route was hilly. Most city commutes however are fairly flat so one gear seems enough unless it starts or ends flat or with a long section of climbing or high headwinds. I just think the QB is kinda cool so I want one. My poor mans version exists atwww.cyclofiend.com Well put, except that your URL leads to an icon menu and not your particular bike. If I regularly rode more than 30 miles at a stretch, I'm sure I would, in my condition, be screaming for multiple gears. But still, if the QB allows an 8 tooth gap in chainrings, it will allow an 8 tooth gap in cogs, and each tooth difference in your cogs will make much more of a ratio difference than a tooth dropped from or added to a chainring. This evening as I hauled a 15 lb load home from the grocery store on my 69 fixed Riv commuter, up a 2 mile incline against a 3/4 headwind (NW gusts to 21, I heading West then North), trying to approach 15 mph, the desirability of a lower gear option struck me with, you might say, a painful slap. But then I realized that all I had to do was pedal more slowly, so I backed off and let my speed slide down to a 10-13 mph slog that made things much easier. But of course, a 6 mile grocery run return leg is far from a loaded tour or even an all day hilly gravel run. Of which thinking: back in the Uniglide days, when lockrings were screw on small cogs, someone made a portable device for touring kits that allowed you to use the wheel and frame themselves as levers to remove the locking small cog. Would that not work for fixed cogs, too? Not that I'd care to use it for routine en-route gear changes, but I'm curious if it might work for roadside repairs for the fixed gear tourist. Another meandering thought: Mitch Harris of the Boblist and of much experience riding fixed gears said that old tourists in Britain routinely used 72-78 inch fixed gears for touring, which I suppose means, not carrying 40 lb across the Sahara but a loaded Nelson from hostel to hostel. Still, 78 seems pretty darn high for long distance riding, unless you are much younger than I am. What gears do y'all of longer distance fixed or ss riding (let's say 40 miles or more at a stretch) favor, and over what terrain? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
