[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
unsymmetrical arms? Maybe you're thinking of sidepulls? :^) I have a bike with v-brakes. It's an outlier in my history, in that in ten years I've never had to dick around with the setup once. The levers have adjusters to change the pivot point, and there's plenty of modulation. They're prettier than my Quickbeam's stock brakes, too... I love that Google's first return for v-brakes is Sheldon's article on adjusting them. Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On Nov 29, 1:25 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote: V brakes had their place in the evolution of braking IMO. For big knobby tired bikes( 2.3 inches+) they were better than poorly adjusted canti's. On those same MTB bike they have been replaced by disc brakes almost exclusively. A well adjusted good quality cantilever brake is just as powerful and is orders of magnitude better looking. The mismatched, unsymetrical arms of the V brake look out of place on a beautiful Rivendell bike. :-} ~Mike~ On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan ryansub...@gmail.com wrote: +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the Canti's. R On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M dpmay...@hotmail.com wrote: Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything else. DM On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote: Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that route. Otherwise, it's V for me. Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them newfangled stoppythingies. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: If it doesn't rub its okay..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful, neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I say beautiful? There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family - same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of photos of something you rarely see. What an honor! http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp Marty -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
3-4mm is quite a bit. It sounds like someone filed it down to fit the already tight spaces when used with a 107 or 110mm BB. It would b a risk, but how much ... no one knows. You could use it and check it every ride for cracks, but your health is not worth what you paid for the crank. Try getting a new crank, these Stronglight Impacts from ChainReaction Cycles in the UK are XD2's relabeled. They are steel rings, but you are only after the arms. The price w/shipping is only $62. I've ordered from them before with no issues. Delivery was surprisingly fast. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=50639 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Splats rock.
Got mine in the mail at work. Wore them home. They work great with flat pedals, not so great with toeclips but that's fine by me. This design shares similarties with a pattern that showed up a few seasons ago on Cyclelicious.org: http://www.cyclelicio.us/2006/12/diy-shoe-covers.html I never went to enough conventions to get the free bags, so I couldn't whip up a pair myself. And frankly the Rivendell Splats look nicer and are made in the USA of waxed cotton. Would they keep my feet dry on a metric century? I dunno. Maybe, maybe not, but I'd guess that's not the point. They did keep my shoes quite dry on the five-mile ride home, and I expect them to do the same this morning. Good stuff. Get some! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
I can't get over how nicely they dove-tail joined the footer beam (to lengthen it) Another builder might have discarded the 2 pieces in favor of a longer one, or worse, bolted them together with steel plates, then felt compelled to hide it under a facade. Amazing craftsmanship; truly a thing of beauty. (I think I'll go polish my lugs at lunch time thanks, Marty). BB On Nov 30, 7:00 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote: Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful, neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I say beautiful? There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family - same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of photos of something you rarely see. What an honor! http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp Marty -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell - canti's vrs V's
as they say Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... I have same issue with sidepulls BTW... especially now with my Ram front clearance issues. Seriously thinking of having a local framebuilder add some canti mounts. That way I'll be able to runs some 37mm tires and fenders with 32's. Centerpulls and Canti's just look right on a bike to me. ~Mike~ On Nov 30, 12:49 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com wrote: unsymmetrical arms? Maybe you're thinking of sidepulls? :^) I have a bike with v-brakes. It's an outlier in my history, in that in ten years I've never had to dick around with the setup once. The levers have adjusters to change the pivot point, and there's plenty of modulation. They're prettier than my Quickbeam's stock brakes, too... I love that Google's first return for v-brakes is Sheldon's article on adjusting them. Philip Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com On Nov 29, 1:25 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote: V brakes had their place in the evolution of braking IMO. For big knobby tired bikes( 2.3 inches+) they were better than poorly adjusted canti's. On those same MTB bike they have been replaced by disc brakes almost exclusively. A well adjusted good quality cantilever brake is just as powerful and is orders of magnitude better looking. The mismatched, unsymetrical arms of the V brake look out of place on a beautiful Rivendell bike. :-} ~Mike~ On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan ryansub...@gmail.com wrote: +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the Canti's. R On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M dpmay...@hotmail.com wrote: Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything else. DM On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote: Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that route. Otherwise, it's V for me. Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them newfangled stoppythingies. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: If it doesn't rub its okay..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either. v-brakes with regular road leversawesome. On Nov 23, 4:17 pm, Erik efrob...@gmail.com wrote: Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040catid=185). They are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am not particularly impressed. The shape isn't great, and the leverage ratio doesn't seem quite right. -Erik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
Back in the day when I worked in the trucking industry we would often machine, grind and other wise do what was needed to make the sprockets for salt spreaders and such align correctly. From the way this piece was reduced I would use it in a heartbeat. I don't see (but I've been way wrong before) much risk here at all. If it aligns and shifts ok then go for it. Just my opinion. Kelly On Nov 30, 7:01 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote: 3-4mm is quite a bit. It sounds like someone filed it down to fit the already tight spaces when used with a 107 or 110mm BB. It would b a risk, but how much ... no one knows. You could use it and check it every ride for cracks, but your health is not worth what you paid for the crank. Try getting a new crank, these Stronglight Impacts from ChainReaction Cycles in the UK are XD2's relabeled. They are steel rings, but you are only after the arms. The price w/shipping is only $62. I've ordered from them before with no issues. Delivery was surprisingly fast.http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=50639 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
FWIW, I agree with Kelly. It isn't clear to me from the picture whether metal that actually engages the spindle has been removed, it may just be excess. I know I have at least one XD2 that seems to have a lot of metal inside there that does nothing and is poorly finished. In any case, I think this would start to not stay tight rather than fail catastrophically. If it were mine, I would use and just check it every once in a while. YMMV, Doug On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:10 AM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote: Back in the day when I worked in the trucking industry we would often machine, grind and other wise do what was needed to make the sprockets for salt spreaders and such align correctly. From the way this piece was reduced I would use it in a heartbeat. I don't see (but I've been way wrong before) much risk here at all. If it aligns and shifts ok then go for it. Just my opinion. Kelly -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Bummer the 90mm brake arm on the TRP V brakes would put the cable right through where my Nitto mini attaches to the fork crown...not good. On Nov 30, 10:53 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote: those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either. v-brakes with regular road leversawesome. On Nov 23, 4:17 pm, Erik efrob...@gmail.com wrote: Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040catid=185). They are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am not particularly impressed. The shape isn't great, and the leverage ratio doesn't seem quite right. -Erik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
From the way it is filed, I also wouldn't be afraid of installing it and using it as is. The big concern for me would be how badly it affects your chain line, if it does at all. If it looks alright, I would ride it for a few days, tighten it up a second time, and go with it. Don't take it touring or camping for a while, just ride it locally - I don't think it would fail catastrophically, just loosen slightly at worst, so you'll still be able to get home - and I bet you'll forget about it after a while and feel confident enough to take it on long trips. Cranksets are expensive and I'm sure this has been an upsetting experience, so do yourself a favor and ride it for a while before plunking that extra money down on a replacement. Also, the square taper system is simple and overbuilt - until recently it was standard practice for people to force older TA cranksets onto modern bottom brackets with the wrong taper and I know at least one person who toured with his distorted TA crankset for years and even moved it to different bikes! Best of luck! On Nov 29, 3:39 pm, lauren laurench...@gmail.com wrote: This spring I bought two used Sugino XD2 triples advertised on this list to put on a Hunqapillar and a Rawland Drakkar i knew we'd be getting in the fall. I'm still waiting on the Hunqapillar, but I took out the crankset to build up the Drakkar that arrived last weekend to find that it had been filed down on the inside. My fault, for not asking for photos beforehand, I suppose, but I'm wondering if it's safe to use. I contacted the seller and he said he didn't know it had been filed down. Photos here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/otterbean/sets/72157625369398923/with/52... Soliciting opinions: Is it okay to use or should we get another? Comparing it to my other, perfectly intact XD2, it looks like about 3-4 mm has been filed off the inside and a little bit into the square hole has been filed away as well meaning that a lot less surface area is contacting the surface area than would usually do so (that's my guess at least). We put it on and it seems to fit snug for riding around town, but I can't decide whether it would hold up to harder riding (the rider is ~185 lbs). I know we should just buy another one, but we're already scraping the bottom of the barrel to build these bikes up so if I can safely make use of my $80 spent then all the better. Any insight/ideas much appreciated. Thanks, Lauren ps. If anyone has a triple right XD2 175 mm crank arm they'd like to sell let me know. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8 threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being correct. I have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame bags, etc. I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still available, there's no reason to not be retro. But for those of us who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, seem rather archaic and cumbersome. cyclotourist wrote: Basically every improvement in bicycle components design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets: check compact frames: check All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that they're marketed as improvements which they aren't for the end user. And they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us here. My $.02 for the evening. On Nov 29, 7:53 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: Basically every improvement in bicycle components design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets: check compact frames: check All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that they're marketed as improvements which they aren't for the end user. And they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us here. My $.02 for the evening. On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 1:46 PM, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote: I have to disagree with some of the statements. V-brakes are just
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
On Nov 30, 7:27 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote: I can't get over how nicely they dove-tail joined the footer beam (to lengthen it) Another builder might have discarded the 2 pieces in favor of a longer one, or worse, bolted them together with steel plates, then felt compelled to hide it under a facade. Amazing craftsmanship; truly a thing of beauty. (I think I'll go polish my lugs at lunch time thanks, Marty). BB It's not a dovetail, it's a scarf.And if you look up scarf joints you will find it's not a particularly complex one. Phil Brown -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Splats rock.
I just got my pair at Riv HQ. It's sunny out today, so I won't get to sample their effectiveness. I was pleased to hear from Jay that the large size of 'Splats is almost completely sold out. Hooray for the early adopters. Another FWIW piece of info, since I had the luxury of trying them on, I went with the SMALL, and I wear a men's 10.5 - 11 shoe. The Large was really immense. I tried them over my bulkiest shoe, which is a clunky Sketcher. My dress shoes and my Vans/Pumas/Sambas are all smaller. On Nov 30, 6:53 am, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote: Got mine in the mail at work. Wore them home. They work great with flat pedals, not so great with toeclips but that's fine by me. This design shares similarties with a pattern that showed up a few seasons ago on Cyclelicious.org: http://www.cyclelicio.us/2006/12/diy-shoe-covers.html I never went to enough conventions to get the free bags, so I couldn't whip up a pair myself. And frankly the Rivendell Splats look nicer and are made in the USA of waxed cotton. Would they keep my feet dry on a metric century? I dunno. Maybe, maybe not, but I'd guess that's not the point. They did keep my shoes quite dry on the five-mile ride home, and I expect them to do the same this morning. Good stuff. Get some! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
Phil, there is such a thing as a dove-tail scarf joint, and this is one of 'em. Agree there are more elaborate joints out there, but this gets the job done. Not sure if the cross section drives the choice of joint, but I suspect a more complex scarf would be problematic in a timber that is a foot square. Given the OT nature of this thread, we can continue the conversation via Flickr if you like. I added a picture of what it looked like in 1968. Marty On Nov 30, 12:03 pm, Phil Brown philcyc...@gmail.com wrote: On Nov 30, 7:27 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote: I can't get over how nicely they dove-tail joined the footer beam (to lengthen it) Another builder might have discarded the 2 pieces in favor of a longer one, or worse, bolted them together with steel plates, then felt compelled to hide it under a facade. Amazing craftsmanship; truly a thing of beauty. (I think I'll go polish my lugs at lunch time thanks, Marty). BB It's not a dovetail, it's a scarf.And if you look up scarf joints you will find it's not a particularly complex one. Phil Brown -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
on 11/30/10 8:58 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. The specific benefit for the linear-pull brake design was that it liberated cable routing. For suspension mtb's, this was critical. The cable stop became part of the brake, so you could run the cabling in all manner of methods. And although Sheldon stated it better than I, the other major difference was that it took the leverage and moved it from the brake to the brake lever. This simplified setup tremendously, which is arguably what Shimano had attempted to do by changing to a fixed straddle yoke method of attachment. Ease of setup is a good thing. You want brakes to stop you. When canti's are set up wrong, the braking can be horrible. Use the brakes you can set up reliably and understand when things go wrong. My main beef with linear pull has never changed - aside from the issues of fender mounting with a lp brake - they lack the range of useful response which properly set up canti's have. To me, linear pulls changed the response from pressure-based to time-based. On my lp bikes, you would brake with a little dit of pressure to the lever - usually with one or two fingers, which would nearly lock the wheel. So the braking would tend to be be on/off, on/off, on/off until you had decellerated. With canti's, I've found there to be much more middle ground. You can scrub a little speed to start, and if you aren't quite right, apply more pressure. In the real world, where panic starts to set in, as you ramp up your adrenalin, you apply more brake. With linear pulls, where you quickly get to skidding levels, you need an anti-lock circuit in your brain which tells your paws to lighten up. Obviously, this is what works for me, and it also gets reinforced biomechanically everytime I use canti's, on and off-road. If I'd just ridden lp brakes, I'd have a better developed sense of pressure sensitivity with the narrower range inherent to the design. - Jim off to work on a canti-braked Quickbeam... -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com I had to ride slow because I was taking my guerrilla route, the one I follow when I assume that everyone in a car is out to get me. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Atlantis, Complete Bike
Looking to build a touring bike, not sure if the 64cm will be too large for me. Definitely interested in the wheelset though if you are considering parting it out. Would you clear up some sizing details for me though: Your height, inseam, and the TT and ST in cm of your Riv? Thank you! On Nov 24, 11:23 pm, mkrbec mkr...@gmail.com wrote: I weigh too much, especially when the bike is fully loaded. On Nov 24, 9:02 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote: May I ask, too big, how? On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 4:49 PM, mkrbec mkr...@gmail.com wrote: For sale is my 64cm Rivendell Atlantis I built this up as my fully-loaded touring dream bike, but sadly I am just too big for it really need something a bit stouter (something more like a Bombadil, or maybe a Hunq). I hope it will go to a good home. Many of the parts are new or nearly new. I bought the frame from a member of the RBW group, who was the original owner. It is a Toyo frame and in excellent shape with just some minor paint scrapes on the chainstay. It has never been crashed and has been well taken care of its entire life. So the frame, fork, headset, seatpost and stem were all purchased used, but in excellent condition. 64cm Toyo-built Rivendell Atlantis Frame Shimano Ultegra Headset Nitto Jaguar Seatpot Nitto Technomic Deluxe I then went about putting together the rest of the build, all of the parts listed below have less than 200 miles on them. Wheels, hand-built by Peter White. Velocity Chukker rims, 40 spoke rear with Phil Wood Touring Cassette Hub 36 spoke front, with Schmidt SON Dynamo hub Schwabe Marathon Supreme 700x40 tires Brooks Champion Flyer Saddle Phil Wood Bottom Bracket Sugino Triple Crank Shimano XT rear derailer Shimano SORA front derailer Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes, w/KoolStop triple compound pads Nitto 48cm Noodle Bars Shimano Tiagra Brake levers Tektro Interruper Brake Levers MKS Grip King Pedals Schmidt Edelux Dynamo Headlight Topflight Dynao Taillight (with heavy-duty Schmidt wiring) Pletscher Twin-Legger Kickstand with deluxe plate (extra padding so it doesn't damage the frame) Nitto Big Rear Rack Nitto M12 Mini Front Rack SRAM 8 speed cassette SRAM 8 speed chain Shimano bar end shifters Jagwire Teflon brake cables Jagwire Hyper derailer cables SKS p50 fenders Retro Front Mudflap Photos can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25541...@n07/sets/72157625455257710/ I have over $3500 in this bike, and am asking $2800, but am willing to listen to reasonable offers. I am local in the Portland/Vancouver area, but buying from a distance will have the bike packed professionally by my local bike shop. Buyer to pay full SH. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
Either way I say it's impressive Bobby gotta learn them joints Birmingham On Nov 30, 1:22 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote: Phil, there is such a thing as a dove-tail scarf joint, and this is one of 'em. Agree there are more elaborate joints out there, but this gets the job done. Not sure if the cross section drives the choice of joint, but I suspect a more complex scarf would be problematic in a timber that is a foot square. Given the OT nature of this thread, we can continue the conversation via Flickr if you like. I added a picture of what it looked like in 1968. Marty On Nov 30, 12:03 pm, Phil Brown philcyc...@gmail.com wrote: On Nov 30, 7:27 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote: I can't get over how nicely they dove-tail joined the footer beam (to lengthen it) Another builder might have discarded the 2 pieces in favor of a longer one, or worse, bolted them together with steel plates, then felt compelled to hide it under a facade. Amazing craftsmanship; truly a thing of beauty. (I think I'll go polish my lugs at lunch time thanks, Marty). BB It's not a dovetail, it's a scarf.And if you look up scarf joints you will find it's not a particularly complex one. Phil Brown- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
On Tue, 2010-11-30 at 10:32 -0800, CycloFiend wrote: To me, linear pulls changed the response from pressure-based to time-based. On my lp bikes, you would brake with a little dit of pressure to the lever - usually with one or two fingers, which would nearly lock the wheel. So the braking would tend to be be on/off, on/off, on/off until you had decellerated. In a word, binary. Add ugly, and you have the two words that together define and rule them out for me. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I would also say that the ease of set-up is a major help to bike shops too, especially ones that have inexperienced folks (cheap) running the repair side of things. I guess for me its easy to be retro-grouchy I do all my own wrenching except for wheel truing, I give that to a friend who has been doing it for 30 plus years. I know how to set-up anything except disc brakes, which is fine cause I dont plan on using them. Im one of those odd cats that loves fiddly parts and I like working on my bikes almost as much as I like riding. I like the challenge of getting odd combinations of things working well together, when they can, and have tried many different kinds of set-ups. I like mixing it all up a bit. my interest in bike tech ends at about the year 1998 though. Disc brakes, full suspension, carbon fiber, 9 spd and above, are all a distraction from the purity of the experience of riding a bike for me at least. Aesthetically too most bike stuff after the late 90's is just plain fugly for me. surprise surprise, after all this is the RBW Owners bunch. On Nov 30, 8:58 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8 threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being correct. I have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame bags, etc. I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still available, there's no reason to not be retro. But for those of us who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, seem rather archaic and cumbersome. cyclotourist wrote: Basically every improvement in bicycle components design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets: check compact frames: check All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out
[RBW] 2005 Rambouillet Blue 60cm Excellent Cond.
$1000 asking price plus shipping. Toyo built. There are a few small nicks in the paint. I would consider the paint a 9 out of 10 if not a 9.5. No dents or scratches. It has a fresh coat of framesaver applied. Comes with record headset, tektro long reach brakes and crystal fellow seatpost. Will include 10 speed veloce group for $300, the group is a mix of old and new parts (new 2011 shifters and fd). Race gearing with 172.5 cranks. photos can be found here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/69516...@n00/ thanks -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Another Lady and her Riv
Right on Lee. I was after this bike as well. Glad it found a good home though. On Nov 29, 10:17 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: In the vein of Doug's A Lady and Her Atlantis post, I did a little jaunt around the city with a friend of mine and her new-to-her Bleriot. The bike was the one that Gino posted on here not too long ago. My friend had been looking for an upgrade from her old Raleigh mixte and early 90's Gary Fisher mountain bike. I guess in a certain way, the Bleriot outfitted with Jitensha flat bars and CdlV/Ourson tires, is a logical progression. In any event, she loves it and soon will be joining my friends and I on next season's S240s. And killing us on the climbs, I'm sure. Anyway, here are some pics of the ride:http://tinyurl.com/276jmah Best, Lee -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Another Lady and her Riv
Lee: My wife has usually had flat bars and is giving the drops on her Atlantis a fair trial. However, if she opts to change, what bars are on your friends Bleriot? You mention flat but they appear to have some curve perhaps some rise. The look good. Also, are the shift levers mounted to the brake levers? Which brake levers are those? If Melanie does want to change, I want to stick with silver stuff. dougP On Nov 30, 1:29 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote: Right on Lee. I was after this bike as well. Glad it found a good home though. On Nov 29, 10:17 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: In the vein of Doug's A Lady and Her Atlantis post, I did a little jaunt around the city with a friend of mine and her new-to-her Bleriot. The bike was the one that Gino posted on here not too long ago. My friend had been looking for an upgrade from her old Raleigh mixte and early 90's Gary Fisher mountain bike. I guess in a certain way, the Bleriot outfitted with Jitensha flat bars and CdlV/Ourson tires, is a logical progression. In any event, she loves it and soon will be joining my friends and I on next season's S240s. And killing us on the climbs, I'm sure. Anyway, here are some pics of the ride:http://tinyurl.com/276jmah Best, Lee- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
This is a good examle of the type of detail you can encounter, and stop to enjoy, when traveling by bike. Were you in a car, you'd just whiz by perhaps note Nice wood framing. dougP On Nov 30, 10:49 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote: Either way I say it's impressive Bobby gotta learn them joints Birmingham On Nov 30, 1:22 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote: Phil, there is such a thing as a dove-tail scarf joint, and this is one of 'em. Agree there are more elaborate joints out there, but this gets the job done. Not sure if the cross section drives the choice of joint, but I suspect a more complex scarf would be problematic in a timber that is a foot square. Given the OT nature of this thread, we can continue the conversation via Flickr if you like. I added a picture of what it looked like in 1968. Marty On Nov 30, 12:03 pm, Phil Brown philcyc...@gmail.com wrote: On Nov 30, 7:27 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote: I can't get over how nicely they dove-tail joined the footer beam (to lengthen it) Another builder might have discarded the 2 pieces in favor of a longer one, or worse, bolted them together with steel plates, then felt compelled to hide it under a facade. Amazing craftsmanship; truly a thing of beauty. (I think I'll go polish my lugs at lunch time thanks, Marty). BB It's not a dovetail, it's a scarf.And if you look up scarf joints you will find it's not a particularly complex one. Phil Brown- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
I wouldnt ride it-- but that is me. Totally sucks but if you arent sure, that should decide it for you. What is the cost if it fails? and worse...if you end up getting hurt people are gonna say Well, what did he expect .. Better to be safe than toothless. Cheers! cm On Nov 30, 9:34 am, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote: From the way it is filed, I also wouldn't be afraid of installing it and using it as is. The big concern for me would be how badly it affects your chain line, if it does at all. If it looks alright, I would ride it for a few days, tighten it up a second time, and go with it. Don't take it touring or camping for a while, just ride it locally - I don't think it would fail catastrophically, just loosen slightly at worst, so you'll still be able to get home - and I bet you'll forget about it after a while and feel confident enough to take it on long trips. Cranksets are expensive and I'm sure this has been an upsetting experience, so do yourself a favor and ride it for a while before plunking that extra money down on a replacement. Also, the square taper system is simple and overbuilt - until recently it was standard practice for people to force older TA cranksets onto modern bottom brackets with the wrong taper and I know at least one person who toured with his distorted TA crankset for years and even moved it to different bikes! Best of luck! On Nov 29, 3:39 pm, lauren laurench...@gmail.com wrote: This spring I bought two used Sugino XD2 triples advertised on this list to put on a Hunqapillar and a Rawland Drakkar i knew we'd be getting in the fall. I'm still waiting on the Hunqapillar, but I took out the crankset to build up the Drakkar that arrived last weekend to find that it had been filed down on the inside. My fault, for not asking for photos beforehand, I suppose, but I'm wondering if it's safe to use. I contacted the seller and he said he didn't know it had been filed down. Photos here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/otterbean/sets/72157625369398923/with/52... Soliciting opinions: Is it okay to use or should we get another? Comparing it to my other, perfectly intact XD2, it looks like about 3-4 mm has been filed off the inside and a little bit into the square hole has been filed away as well meaning that a lot less surface area is contacting the surface area than would usually do so (that's my guess at least). We put it on and it seems to fit snug for riding around town, but I can't decide whether it would hold up to harder riding (the rider is ~185 lbs). I know we should just buy another one, but we're already scraping the bottom of the barrel to build these bikes up so if I can safely make use of my $80 spent then all the better. Any insight/ideas much appreciated. Thanks, Lauren ps. If anyone has a triple right XD2 175 mm crank arm they'd like to sell let me know.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Splats rock.
Pretty cool. I need to get off my butt, and order a large pair, before it's too late. I'll admit that I thought they were a joke, at first. But, c'mon, I'm sure I wasn't the only one? Remember that first intro post - with the mudflaps, right? Also, they look kinda homely - BUT I think I really need them. In the winter, I use gore-tex lined hiking boots on Grip Kings on my rain bike - it's a great set-up. However, I have Speedplay Frogs on my AHH, and I use the Pearl Izumi X- alp touring shoes. Great shoes, but all the toe-covers on the market seem to be for roadie shoes, and don't fit MTB style shoes very well at all - I've been quite disappointed. I'm sure the Splats will work great. I think Riv might do pretty well with these, and I think they should be a long-time staple. BTW, also want to mention that the MUSA rain pants ROCK too, and worth every orange cent - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Best, Alex Moll Marysville, WA (north of Seattle) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
Thinking of bikes, timber frames, beautiful construction and nice joinery leads me to think of: http://www.renovobikes.com/gallery-r4-pursuit/ Bill On Nov 30, 4:00 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote: Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful, neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I say beautiful? There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family - same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of photos of something you rarely see. What an honor! http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp Marty -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Another Lady and her Riv
They are the bars from Jitensha studio in Berkeley. They do ship and are A-MAZING bars. I'm dropping to one bike this winter but keeping my flat bars just in case. On Nov 30, 6:37 pm, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Lee: My wife has usually had flat bars and is giving the drops on her Atlantis a fair trial. However, if she opts to change, what bars are on your friends Bleriot? You mention flat but they appear to have some curve perhaps some rise. The look good. Also, are the shift levers mounted to the brake levers? Which brake levers are those? If Melanie does want to change, I want to stick with silver stuff. dougP On Nov 30, 1:29 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote: Right on Lee. I was after this bike as well. Glad it found a good home though. On Nov 29, 10:17 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: In the vein of Doug's A Lady and Her Atlantis post, I did a little jaunt around the city with a friend of mine and her new-to-her Bleriot. The bike was the one that Gino posted on here not too long ago. My friend had been looking for an upgrade from her old Raleigh mixte and early 90's Gary Fisher mountain bike. I guess in a certain way, the Bleriot outfitted with Jitensha flat bars and CdlV/Ourson tires, is a logical progression. In any event, she loves it and soon will be joining my friends and I on next season's S240s. And killing us on the climbs, I'm sure. Anyway, here are some pics of the ride:http://tinyurl.com/276jmah Best, Lee- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Lugged Bikes vs.Timber-Frames
i wonder if a carbo-no-mas fork would work with one of those... andrew On Nov 30, 2010, at 5:48 PM, Bill M. wrote: Thinking of bikes, timber frames, beautiful construction and nice joinery leads me to think of: http://www.renovobikes.com/gallery-r4-pursuit/ Bill On Nov 30, 4:00 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote: Lugged bikes are like timber-framed structures; both beautiful, neither wanting to cover up the joinery, strong, built to last, did I say beautiful? There's a new/old grain mill being built near home in PA (actually just inside Northern Maryland, on Amos Mill Road) ). Replaces an antique mill that just about fell down. Owned by the Amos family - same as ever. The Amish are taking care of the framing. I happened to ride by on a rest day (for the Amish, not me) , and took a bunch of photos of something you rarely see. What an honor! http://tinyurl.com/2az5myp Marty -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
That has been reduced by less than 1/8th inch (not much) Any bottom bracket axle will go to the depth it would have before filing due to the taper machined in the crank arm square hole and axle. If you put the arm on and tighten it up it should be fine. If the actual engagement surface has been reduced drastically and by that I mean over 50% I might be concerned if you were a really powerful or heavy rider. From your description I wouldn't worry about it.just put it on a grocery getter and see how long it lasts. I weigh 265 and ride an old Raleigh Technium frame just to see if it will last. I think they call that empirical testing. On Nov 29, 12:39 pm, lauren laurench...@gmail.com wrote: This spring I bought two used Sugino XD2 triples advertised on this list to put on a Hunqapillar and a Rawland Drakkar i knew we'd be getting in the fall. I'm still waiting on the Hunqapillar, but I took out the crankset to build up the Drakkar that arrived last weekend to find that it had been filed down on the inside. My fault, for not asking for photos beforehand, I suppose, but I'm wondering if it's safe to use. I contacted the seller and he said he didn't know it had been filed down. Photos here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/otterbean/sets/72157625369398923/with/52... Soliciting opinions: Is it okay to use or should we get another? Comparing it to my other, perfectly intact XD2, it looks like about 3-4 mm has been filed off the inside and a little bit into the square hole has been filed away as well meaning that a lot less surface area is contacting the surface area than would usually do so (that's my guess at least). We put it on and it seems to fit snug for riding around town, but I can't decide whether it would hold up to harder riding (the rider is ~185 lbs). I know we should just buy another one, but we're already scraping the bottom of the barrel to build these bikes up so if I can safely make use of my $80 spent then all the better. Any insight/ideas much appreciated. Thanks, Lauren ps. If anyone has a triple right XD2 175 mm crank arm they'd like to sell let me know. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Road 59cm Complete
Interesting, does this fit differently then current Rivendell's? Or is the bike a little small for you? You must have a ton of stand-over clearance. The bike is beautful, if i hadn't just started a Hillborne build i would've considered this so GLWTS. On Nov 29, 9:43 am, Wally wwer...@gmail.com wrote: Hi! I should have included that info in the original listing - thanks for asking. The standover is 83.5cm (33), and I have a PBH of 91 cm. Wally -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] wtb: Nitto Big Back Rack
I need a Nitto Big Back Rack. I think I need a size large. Let me know, thanks!! - Eric -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Splats rock.
Hi Beth, What size are you and what size did you buy? I'm a 6 1/2 to 7 narrow and was thinking about buying a pair since we've had a lot of rain in SoCal. Ness On Nov 30, 6:53 am, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote: Got mine in the mail at work. Wore them home. They work great with flat pedals, not so great with toeclips but that's fine by me. This design shares similarties with a pattern that showed up a few seasons ago on Cyclelicious.org: http://www.cyclelicio.us/2006/12/diy-shoe-covers.html I never went to enough conventions to get the free bags, so I couldn't whip up a pair myself. And frankly the Rivendell Splats look nicer and are made in the USA of waxed cotton. Would they keep my feet dry on a metric century? I dunno. Maybe, maybe not, but I'd guess that's not the point. They did keep my shoes quite dry on the five-mile ride home, and I expect them to do the same this morning. Good stuff. Get some! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
On Nov 29, 12:39 pm, lauren laurench...@gmail.com wrote: I think they call that empirical testing. I hope that when it fails it fails at a convenient time and not when your face, teeth, naughty bits, or life could be in jeopardy. Me, I'd take the loss and replace it. Cheers! cm -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from braking can become a real issue. More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. Just my 2 Thai Baht, Gernot On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8 threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being correct. I have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame bags, etc. I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still available, there's no reason to not be retro. But for those of us who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, seem rather archaic and cumbersome. cyclotourist wrote: Basically every improvement in bicycle components design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets:
[RBW] Re: wtb: Nitto Big Back Rack
Riv has them in stock now, and you'll get your rebate in just a few weeks! On Nov 30, 7:14 pm, Eric ericwolfo...@gmail.com wrote: I need a Nitto Big Back Rack. I think I need a size large. Let me know, thanks!! - Eric -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I would think cantis are much more powerful-- especially if they have longer arms. One respected brake maker recommends against putting their cantis on lighter weight frames as the stopping power can ruin the frame. That is impressive. I'd like to see that. I see the +'s and -'s to both. In the end I prefer v-brakes if only cuz cantis always seem so darn fickle. Cheers! cm On Nov 30, 9:37 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from braking can become a real issue. More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. Just my 2 Thai Baht, Gernot On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8 threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being correct. I have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame bags, etc. I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still available, there's no reason to not be retro. But
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Form vs. function? I would say if my life depended on it, I would take the V-Brakes. In my experience, they have more leverage and are more powerful. I don't buy the too much is bad - it's a matter of learning how much braking you've got, and experimenting a bit to find out what to do with it. You have the same issue if the surface is slippery - a slight touch on less powerful brakes can wipe you out. Gotta learn to feel your brake control. It's like throttle control on a motor bike. I guess we could also argue that all brakes are an eyesore (like the fixie crowd). Brian On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:42 PM, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote: I would think cantis are much more powerful-- especially if they have longer arms. One respected brake maker recommends against putting their cantis on lighter weight frames as the stopping power can ruin the frame. That is impressive. I'd like to see that. I see the +'s and -'s to both. In the end I prefer v-brakes if only cuz cantis always seem so darn fickle. Cheers! cm On Nov 30, 9:37 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from braking can become a real issue. More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. Just my 2 Thai Baht, Gernot On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8 threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the
[RBW] Re: Filed down Sugino XD2
more likely to get run over by a bus than having that fail. Kelly I hope that when it fails it fails at a convenient time and not when your face, teeth, naughty bits, or life could be in jeopardy. Me, I'd take the loss and replace it. Cheers! cm -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
