Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Michael Hechmer]

That's a total tooth difference of 40, not what I would call mid range. 
 I'm thinking more like 46/36/26 with a 12-27 kind of length.  That's the 
range the ultra triple detailers have been designed for.

It seems to me that the longer the cage the greater the chance of a 
vertical misalignment as a small error gets increasingly magnified the 
further the bottom pulley is from the cog.  

Michael


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:51:33 PM UTC-5, sameness wrote:
>
> Shimano XT RD-751 
> GS
> . 
>
> Shifts up to 32T in back with a 46x36x24 up front.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> San Diego, CA USA
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:07:18 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> Which "mid range" derailler do you use with an 11-32?  I'm not aware of 
>> anything I would call mid range that will work with a 32 and a triple crank.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paint matching

[Michael Hechmer]

Thanks for the suggestion.  No chain here in VT but perhaps a local hobby 
store might be worth checking out.

Michael

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:59:11 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> Michael:
>
> This topic comes up once in a while.  I've had good luck at the hobby 
> store.  Huge color selection, small bottles and not expensive.  Somewhere 
> on cyclofiend's website I think there is some info on paint color matches.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:40:04 PM UTC-8, Tom Virgil wrote:
>>
>> Michael,
>>
>> I try to get more than one nail polish bottle with hues on either side of 
>> what is to be matched.  Mixing them and applying to a test piece off the 
>> bike can help get close.  A blow dryer can speed up getting to the final 
>> result.  I have found an air brush shoots nail polish pretty well (got the 
>> idea from watching the goings on in a nail salon where they use stencils 
>> and air brushes for different effects).
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:19:14 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a pretty much new-to-me early Saluki (00011) in a beautiful shade 
>>> of grey.  It has fewer than the usual paint chips on the bb shell and chain 
>>> stay but I am wanting to touch them up.  I found an imron paint chart on 
>>> the Joe Bell web site, made my best guess on the color and went to Bond 
>>> Auto which, supposedly, cross matched it and sold me a small can for $12. 
>>>  Unfortunately there grey turned out to be an off white!  RBW does not keep 
>>> records and advises finding a good nail polish match.  Seems like a stretch 
>>> to me.  Has anyone out there found a good way to match paint?
>>>
>>> BTW, all new bikes should come with touch up paint and a color #.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Ron Mc]

I run a 12-32 with 47/42/26 on a Suntour Cyclone GT - I don't use the 12T 
cog with with 26T chainring, though - it will drag the chain on my 
derailleur cage.  So for the chain difference and wrap, you can look at my 
setup as 14-32.  Compared to modern derailleurs, the 36T chain wrap counts 
as medium.  



The original Raleigh 5-speed freewheel had a 35T max with a VGT RD, even 
though most specs on the derailleur list the max rear cog as 32T



On Thursday, February 6, 2014 5:56:43 AM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> That's a total tooth difference of 40, not what I would call mid range. 
>  I'm thinking more like 46/36/26 with a 12-27 kind of length.  That's the 
> range the ultra triple detailers have been designed for.
>
> It seems to me that the longer the cage the greater the chance of a 
> vertical misalignment as a small error gets increasingly magnified the 
> further the bottom pulley is from the cog.  
>
> Michael
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:51:33 PM UTC-5, sameness wrote:
>>
>> Shimano XT RD-751 
>> GS
>> . 
>>
>> Shifts up to 32T in back with a 46x36x24 up front.
>>
>> Jeff Hagedorn
>> San Diego, CA USA
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:07:18 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>>
>>> Which "mid range" derailler do you use with an 11-32?  I'm not aware of 
>>> anything I would call mid range that will work with a 32 and a triple crank.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

[Scott Henry]

I have been trying not to buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Giordano-Viaggio-Tandem-White-Pearl/dp/B004Q3PE30/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1391696071&sr=1-3

But I know that for $500 to my door I will be getting one sooner or later.
Its cheap, I am sure I could up-spec it a bit with what I have in my garage
and I really want a better tandem.   I have an old Schwinn Twinn but have
been trying to get the lady to ride with me a bit more.

Scott
Dayton, OH



On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:02 PM, charlie.fowler wrote:

> My sister and I ride a 1976 Motobecane tandem we got a few years ago.
> Has bar end shifters, a TA triple and a frozen captain's seat post. Lucky
> seat height is right.
>
> It's pretty Granted out. Shellaced bar tape and twine, a Hobo bag hanging
> on stoker bar and a little joe bag flipped backwards on front bar and a
> burrito wrap behind the stoker.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgiobrtn7n7moqu/IMG_1258.JPG
>
>  Charlie fowler, who rides a 57cm romulus
> Hamilton ohio
>
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[RBW] Re: Yes, another winter For Sale post: Carradice, Carradice-esque, Exustar touring shoes, Ibex wool bike shorts, frame pump.

[dan gee]

People should not sleep on those Exustar shoes - they're really great and mine 
have been going on strong for 4 or 5 years. Heck, I am tempted to get these for 
spares, especially at the price. 
-Dan in (now) D.C.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Montclair BobbyB]

Allow me to present an opposing opinion on asymmetrical rims... In my 
opinion they attempt to solve a problem that isn't really a problem, and 
they go about solving it the wrong way.  To begin with, why is having a 
dished rear wheel really such a problem, unless you hate having to buy 2 
spoke sizes to build your wheels?  I hear people argue about wheel 
strength, but who says you can't build a dished wheel that is strong?  I've 
never trashed a dished wheel merely because it's dished... I've built a 
fair number of wheels, and I'm a big dude. Second, an asymm rim 
concentrates the weight (and stress) on the side of the rim (and therefore 
the side of the tire), not the center.  I say it belongs in the center, 
wouldn't you?.  And if in the end you really hate the idea of having dish 
in your rear wheel, I say start with HUB selection, not the rim. Think 
about it; with asymm rims you're merely offsetting asymmetry with more 
asymmetry... Why not just begin (and stick with) symmetry, period?  

I admit I like being able to buy one size of spokes for both sides, but I'm 
struggling with the whole asymm thing... Somebody please help convince me.

Peace,

Bobby "I admit my face is asymmetrical" Birmingham 






On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:48:19 PM UTC-5, mike goldman wrote:
>
> yes, you can use spokes if its off by a mm or 2. 
>
> i try to keep a differential of 2mm between rear spokes rounding down for 
> the right side as to pull the rim over for dish 
>  
> How to Sleep Like a Rock 
> Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. 
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2b1f47e82331f46087st04duc 
>

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[RBW] PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Philip Williamson]

Oh my. My size, my location, and even with the two-tone tape I was trying for a 
while! 
So... How big a tire will a Rambouillet fit again?

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Bruce Herbitter]

37 mm
On 2/6/2014 9:49 AM, Philip Williamson wrote:

Oh my. My size, my location, and even with the two-tone tape I was trying for a 
while!
So... How big a tire will a Rambouillet fit again?

Philip
www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] FS redux: White Industries H2/Pacenti PL23 rear wheel $275 shipped ConUS

[Elton Pope-Lance]

Listees,

The first buyer had a change of heart so here it is again. . .

This is a like new professionally built wheel under a year old with less than 
300 miles. 
White Industries H2, Shimano compatible, 32h silver hub
DT Swiss Competition DB SS spokes, brass nipples.
Pacenti PL23 32h rim
Stan's rim tape - tubeless compatible

Retail new $465.
Yours for $275 (inc. shipping ConUS), or it goes to eBay with $300 reserve.

PayPal, CC, Personal Check, cash all fine.

Elton Pope-Lance
Natick, MA



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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

Hey Benz, I didn't know that the ratchet mechanism moves. I like to learn 
something new everyday, so thanks! Still, that overshift compensation seems 
like a fiddly business to me. I guess if I was attached to the idea of 
using Silver shifters, I'd still want to do an 8sp cassette. There isn't 
much downside to 8sp, unless you have an alloy freehub and need a high-end 
cassette with an alloy carrier.

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:01:29 PM UTC-6, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Although the Silver shifter is half-ratchety and half-friction, there is 
> something one can do to mitigate the "in between" situation you've 
> described - overshift on the ratchet side and then pull back on the 
> friction side. Remember that every time one shifts on the friction side, 
> the "home position" of the shifter changes as the ratchet/toothed wheel is 
> dragged along for the shift. This means that Silver shifters are not like 
> index shifters with predefined positions for each indent.
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:55:45 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
> Cyclery wrote:
>>
>> I'd stick with 7/8 sp cassettes. Here's why. Riv's Silver shifter isn't a 
>> true friction shifter, but a ratchet. That means the shifter has a finite 
>> number of stops rather than an infinite number of positions in true 
>> friction. If you try to shift to a position between the ratchet clicks, the 
>> shifter will be pulled by the derailleur spring to the next click rather 
>> than staying between clicks where you put it! So if you shift to where the 
>> derailleur moves the chain to the perfect position over the desired cog... 
>> As soon as you take your hand off the shifter, the shifter relaxes into the 
>> next ratchet click, and the perfect alignment is gone. We've found that 
>> these shifters "work" with 9sp cassettes but that there are always a few 
>> noisy gears where the ratchet clicks don't allow the derailleur to line up 
>> perfectly with the cogs (made worse because 9sp cassettes have ramps for 
>> easy shifting at the slightest hint on a movement of the chain). I believe 
>> most people who detect this noise simply "trim" the shift until they chain 
>> is riding on a different cog that more closely aligns with one of the 
>> clicks. In practice, your 9 sp cassette has only 6 or 7 gears that will be 
>> tolerably non-noisy. You could ride for years and not notice this, of 
>> course, constantly attributing the noise to simply needing to trim the 
>> shift, always landing on a cog adjacent to the cog that you really want to 
>> be in. But in the repair stand, it's obvious when you try to shift through 
>> the range one gear at a time.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Ron Mc]

he also has the bike listed on ebay  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Rambouillet-Toyo-factory-62cm-touring-randonneur-steel-lugged-Nitto-/321316309246
 
 

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 9:49:19 AM UTC-6, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Oh my. My size, my location, and even with the two-tone tape I was trying 
> for a while! 
> So... How big a tire will a Rambouillet fit again?
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>

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Re: [RBW] PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Mike Schiller]

maybe, mine would only fit a JB in the front. with 2-3mm clearance under 
the brake bridge.   Sold for that reason.
~mike

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:50:35 AM UTC-8, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> 37 mm 
> On 2/6/2014 9:49 AM, Philip Williamson wrote: 
> > Oh my. My size, my location, and even with the two-tone tape I was 
> trying for a while! 
> > So... How big a tire will a Rambouillet fit again? 
> > 
> > Philip 
> > www.biketinker.com 
> > 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] PSA - Ram on SFCL

[Bruce Herbitter]

37mm is what the RBW charts show. I have run them front and back on my 
blue Ram without problem, beyond having to let air out to clear the 
stock brakes maximum opening. If you built the bike with wider mouth 
Tektros, that wouldn't be an issue.  I heard that some of the orange 
Rams had low brake bridges which affected clearance.


On 2/6/2014 11:00 AM, Mike Schiller wrote:
maybe, mine would only fit a JB in the front. with 2-3mm clearance 
under the brake bridge.   Sold for that reason.

~mike

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:50:35 AM UTC-8, Fullylugged wrote:

37 mm
On 2/6/2014 9:49 AM, Philip Williamson wrote:
> Oh my. My size, my location, and even with the two-tone tape I
was trying for a while!
> So... How big a tire will a Rambouillet fit again?
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com 
>

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[RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Mike K.]

Thank you all for the great advice. I will certainly need to call Rivendell 
when I get the cash in order to make the purchase.

I think either bike would suit me well, though based on the light loads I 
generally carry (never more than 10 pounds during the commute), I will feel 
inclined to go with the Sam. A Sam Hillborne was the first Rivendell bike I 
ever saw in person and what prompted me to look up RBW in the first place. 
But who knows. Maybe a conversation with the folks in Walnut Creek will 
convince me otherwise. You've all given me a lot to think about as well as 
a better idea of what I can expect from each bike.

I have much enjoyed the insights of the Group so far.

Best,
Mike

On Friday, January 31, 2014 12:31:32 PM UTC-6, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> I've been admiring Rivendell's website and the various Flickr pages 
> associated with it for a few years now. This year looks like I should 
> finally be able to buy one. I have a few bikes now that I have set up as 
> near a Rivendell as I can, but they're just not what I'm looking for 
> (probably all psychological, but still). 
>
> I'm torn between the Sam Hillborne and the Hunqapillar. I don't do any 
> touring now, but that's largely due to not having a bike to do it. I have 
> plenty of friends who go bike camping now that I'm in Texas, and am looking 
> forward to it this summer. Upwards of 30 miles each way, fully loaded with 
> camping gear, food, etc. for a few days' trip.
>
> Mostly, though, I am a commuter. About 4 miles each way. I have a commuter 
> now, a 1984 Cannondale 56cm ST300 frame with an SR Apex 30/44/48 Triple 
> front and a 12-32 8-speed Cassette in the back, 35mm Bontrager "Commuter" 
> tires with Longboard fenders, Nitto Mustache bars with bar ends and a Nitto 
> Technomic Stem, and a Daija Rear Rack I bought from VO. It's a good bike, 
> but just a tad small and I'm not comfortable loading even for the camping 
> trips.
>
> I would be all-in for the Hunqa, except I'm concerned about it being a 
> bear to just ride around with a light load or unloaded if I was heading out 
> for a day ride around town, which points me to the Sam. Plus the Sam is a 
> good bit cheaper these days, but I would move a good deal of components 
> from the Cannondale to the new frame.
>
> Anyway, sorry for the word vomit. My point: anyone have experience with 
> these two as far as handling? I'd love a Hunqa. I think it's a real beauty, 
> diaga-tube and all. I'm 6' even with longish legs. Around an 89 PBH, so I'd 
> be looking at a 58cm in either bike, 2tt on the Sam, diaga-tube on the 
> Hunqa. I'm just afraid it's too beefy for just riding around.
>
> Any help is much appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Mike
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Christopher Chen]

Also consider how much you weigh. I'm pretty much a waif so I take my
Hilsen places where it maybe shouldn't go.

Yeah.


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Mike K.  wrote:

> Thank you all for the great advice. I will certainly need to call
> Rivendell when I get the cash in order to make the purchase.
>
> I think either bike would suit me well, though based on the light loads I
> generally carry (never more than 10 pounds during the commute), I will feel
> inclined to go with the Sam. A Sam Hillborne was the first Rivendell bike I
> ever saw in person and what prompted me to look up RBW in the first place.
> But who knows. Maybe a conversation with the folks in Walnut Creek will
> convince me otherwise. You've all given me a lot to think about as well as
> a better idea of what I can expect from each bike.
>
> I have much enjoyed the insights of the Group so far.
>
> Best,
> Mike
>
> On Friday, January 31, 2014 12:31:32 PM UTC-6, Mike K. wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>> I've been admiring Rivendell's website and the various Flickr pages
>> associated with it for a few years now. This year looks like I should
>> finally be able to buy one. I have a few bikes now that I have set up as
>> near a Rivendell as I can, but they're just not what I'm looking for
>> (probably all psychological, but still).
>>
>> I'm torn between the Sam Hillborne and the Hunqapillar. I don't do any
>> touring now, but that's largely due to not having a bike to do it. I have
>> plenty of friends who go bike camping now that I'm in Texas, and am looking
>> forward to it this summer. Upwards of 30 miles each way, fully loaded with
>> camping gear, food, etc. for a few days' trip.
>>
>> Mostly, though, I am a commuter. About 4 miles each way. I have a
>> commuter now, a 1984 Cannondale 56cm ST300 frame with an SR Apex 30/44/48
>> Triple front and a 12-32 8-speed Cassette in the back, 35mm Bontrager
>> "Commuter" tires with Longboard fenders, Nitto Mustache bars with bar ends
>> and a Nitto Technomic Stem, and a Daija Rear Rack I bought from VO. It's a
>> good bike, but just a tad small and I'm not comfortable loading even for
>> the camping trips.
>>
>> I would be all-in for the Hunqa, except I'm concerned about it being a
>> bear to just ride around with a light load or unloaded if I was heading out
>> for a day ride around town, which points me to the Sam. Plus the Sam is a
>> good bit cheaper these days, but I would move a good deal of components
>> from the Cannondale to the new frame.
>>
>> Anyway, sorry for the word vomit. My point: anyone have experience with
>> these two as far as handling? I'd love a Hunqa. I think it's a real beauty,
>> diaga-tube and all. I'm 6' even with longish legs. Around an 89 PBH, so I'd
>> be looking at a 58cm in either bike, 2tt on the Sam, diaga-tube on the
>> Hunqa. I'm just afraid it's too beefy for just riding around.
>>
>> Any help is much appreciated.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Mike
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[Bill Lindsay]

I've never heard somebody complain about the inconvenience of buying two 
spoke lengths to build a rear wheel.  LOL!  Have you?

The idea of an Asymmetric rim is to balance spoke tension.  The reason 
people are afraid of unbalanced spoke tension is that too much leads to 
cracked rims, rounded nipples and damaged hub flanges.  Too little spoke 
tension on the non-drive side means spokes that self-loosen and break due 
to fatigue.  If you've never had a rim eyelet crack and have never had a 
left side spoke loosen up in the first few miles of use, then that's really 
good on you.  

You are absolutely right that starting at the hub makes a lot of sense. 
 Avoid a 130mm 11-speed cassette hub.  Stock up on 135mm 7sp cassette hubs. 
 Smart move.  If you want to make the best of an unbalanced hub, though, an 
asym rim does get you closer to balanced spoke tension, which allows you 
some more margin to avoid going too tight or too loose.   

I'd have to draw you a free-body diagram to convince you that the 
off-center spokes won't cause the rim to twist in some weird way.  The main 
point is that the compressive forces across the cross section of the rim 
are the dominant ones.  If you were afraid about off center spokes bending 
the rim in an off center way, then you would be absolutely certain that 
your rim would taco anytime you turn.  Turning is a LOT more un-balanced a 
force than having the spoke bed 4mm to the left.  

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:08:55 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> Allow me to present an opposing opinion on asymmetrical rims... In my 
> opinion they attempt to solve a problem that isn't really a problem, and 
> they go about solving it the wrong way.  To begin with, why is having a 
> dished rear wheel really such a problem, unless you hate having to buy 2 
> spoke sizes to build your wheels?  I hear people argue about wheel 
> strength, but who says you can't build a dished wheel that is strong?  I've 
> never trashed a dished wheel merely because it's dished... I've built a 
> fair number of wheels, and I'm a big dude. Second, an asymm rim 
> concentrates the weight (and stress) on the side of the rim (and therefore 
> the side of the tire), not the center.  I say it belongs in the center, 
> wouldn't you?.  And if in the end you really hate the idea of having dish 
> in your rear wheel, I say start with HUB selection, not the rim. Think 
> about it; with asymm rims you're merely offsetting asymmetry with more 
> asymmetry... Why not just begin (and stick with) symmetry, period?  
>
> I admit I like being able to buy one size of spokes for both sides, but 
> I'm struggling with the whole asymm thing... Somebody please help convince 
> me.
>
> Peace,
>
> Bobby "I admit my face is asymmetrical" Birmingham 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:48:19 PM UTC-5, mike goldman wrote:
>>
>> yes, you can use spokes if its off by a mm or 2. 
>>
>> i try to keep a differential of 2mm between rear spokes rounding down for 
>> the right side as to pull the rim over for dish 
>>  
>> How to Sleep Like a Rock 
>> Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. 
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2b1f47e82331f46087st04duc 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Minh]

Tom,

On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the 
way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the 
braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but 
my Campee BFR is the older one

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>
>  Hugh:
>
>  
>
> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates “Campée” 
> that don’t attach to the fork crown – one has the removable lowriders and 
> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork 
> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, 
> which require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>
> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that 
> bike made it impossible to use the brazeons – I had to use P-clamps.  Pic 
> here:
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755 
> I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).
>
>  
>
> Tom
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Rear rack for Sam

[bknox12]

Speaking of rear racks which one fits the best on the Sam.  I'm thinking of 
getting panniers for runs to the farmers market this spring.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 6, 2014, at 2:39 PM, Minh  wrote:

> Tom,
> 
> On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
> couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the 
> way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the 
> braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but my 
> Campee BFR is the older one
> 
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>> 
>> Hugh:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates “Campée” 
>> that don’t attach to the fork crown – one has the removable lowriders and 
>> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork 
>> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, which 
>> require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>> 
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>> 
>> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that 
>> bike made it impossible to use the brazeons – I had to use P-clamps.  Pic 
>> here:
>> 
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755
>>   I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tom
>> 
> 
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RE: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Minh:

You can see in the pic (especially at Large sizes) that using the middle 
predrilled hole for the dropout mount, if I mounted the slotted mount on the 
rack to the mid-fork braze-on, the Neo-Retro would hit the rack.  I could have 
avoided that problem by using the highest hole, but then the rack wouldn’t 
clear the very big tires on that bike, which I wanted to keep.  So I split the 
difference with a P clamp, and it worked fine, but there still wasn’t room for 
fenders under the rack, and I wanted fenders (which, as you’ve remarked 
elsewhere, give me an opportunity to live dangerously in terms of clearance!), 
so I switched out to a Mini Front Rack and will use lowriders (the ones Riv 
keeps tinkering with, I hope) if I ever want to use front panniers on this bike 
again.

Tom

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Minh
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 2:40 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

Tom,

On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the way?)  
i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the braze-ons--though it is 
really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but my Campee BFR is the older 
one

On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
Hugh:

I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates “Campée” that 
don’t attach to the fork crown – one has the removable lowriders and mounts to 
the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork brazeons.  I 
have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, which require the 
Paul bolts for rack mounting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that bike 
made it impossible to use the brazeons – I had to use P-clamps.  Pic here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755  
I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Hugh Smitham]

Tom,

Is it possible to get some close up's of the Atlantis rack mounting,
especially at the top mounting point?

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving." -- Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Minh  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you
> couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the
> way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the
> braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but
> my Campee BFR is the older one
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>>
>>  Hugh:
>>
>>
>>
>> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates "Campée"
>> that don't attach to the fork crown - one has the removable lowriders and
>> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork
>> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis,
>> which require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/
>> o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>>
>> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that
>> bike made it impossible to use the brazeons - I had to use P-clamps.  Pic
>> here:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/
>> set-72157624427413755  I took it off, partly for that reason (although I
>> really like that rack).
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>  --
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RE: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

No, the best I can do of the Atlantis are the existing pics on Flickr, because 
I've changed up the racks on the Atlantis since I had the Big Front Rack on it. 
 But the link is to my Flickr stream pictures, most of which can be blown up 
pretty big.

But I thought you were using the Campee front rack variety that has the 
detachable lowriders?  If so, close-ups of my Stumpy (which I could easily take 
for you) would be more useful than close-ups of the Atlantis.  Let me know if 
you want some of those, and I'll take them tonight.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Hugh Smitham
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 2:54 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

Tom,

Is it possible to get some close up's of the Atlantis rack mounting, especially 
at the top mounting point?

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving." -- 
Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Minh 
mailto:mgiangs...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Tom,

On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the way?)  
i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the braze-ons--though it is 
really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but my Campee BFR is the older 
one


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
Hugh:

I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates "Campée" that 
don't attach to the fork crown - one has the removable lowriders and mounts to 
the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork brazeons.  I 
have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, which require the 
Paul bolts for rack mounting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that bike 
made it impossible to use the brazeons - I had to use P-clamps.  Pic here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755  
I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Hugh Smitham]

Tom, never mind I see the "p" clamps on the Atlantis.

So if I understand the hardware that came with the rack were the short
stays meant to attach at the canti bosses with double threaded studs (not
included with rack) and longer stays? The long one's are meant for mid fork
braze on's which on the Atlantis didn't work as the Paul canti's were in
the way. Is there a reason you didn't use the double stud or are the Paul's
a different beast and require a Paul specific bolt? And I've heard that the
longer stays need to be purchased separately.

The Stumpjumper I see you mounted to the canti bosses and it appears your
not using Paul's on that bike so it must be a Paul thing. Interestingly I
am planning on using Paul Tour Canti's on my Atlantis.

Another question. What if you know is the largest tire and fender combo
that can be run safely on the Atlantis? You mentioned to Minh that you had
fenders but the clearance was tight. What was the combo?

Thanks for dealing with all these questions but you've tread where I'm
going :-)

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving." -- Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:54 AM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Is it possible to get some close up's of the Atlantis rack mounting,
> especially at the top mounting point?
>
> ~Hugh
>
> "Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
> moving." -- Albert Einstein
>
> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Minh  wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because
>> you couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in
>> the way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the
>> braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but
>> my Campee BFR is the older one
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hugh:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates "Campée"
>>> that don't attach to the fork crown - one has the removable lowriders and
>>> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork
>>> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis,
>>> which require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/
>>> o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>>>
>>> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on
>>> that bike made it impossible to use the brazeons - I had to use P-clamps.
>>> Pic here:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/
>>> set-72157624427413755  I took it off, partly for that reason (although
>>> I really like that rack).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Mike K.]

I'm 6' even, about 155lb. I could probably take a Sam a few places it's not 
expected to go, but I usually don't go those places anyway, so we'd both be 
out of place.

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 12:27:29 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
> Also consider how much you weigh. I'm pretty much a waif so I take my 
> Hilsen places where it maybe shouldn't go.
>
> Yeah.
>
>
>
>

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RE: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Hugh:

On the Atlantis, I could have mounted to the canti bosses, but the Paul cantis 
(any variety, whether Touring or Neo-Retros) require a special mounting bolt 
(you can't use the Nitto bolts that work on most other brakes), and I didn't 
have them, and I was (as always) in a hurry to finish the build for a trip.  I 
think (but don't know for sure)that you could mount the rack you're going to 
use onto the canti bosses on your Atlantis, even if you are going to use Paul 
brakes, as long as you have the Paul mounting bolt.  Link here:  
http://www.paulcomp.com/rackadapter.html  By the way, I am using Paul 
Neo-Retros on the Stumpy, so I will take some close-ups tonight.

On my Atlantis, I'm running 50mm Marathon Supremes with the flattish 60mm 
Berthoud Stainless Steel fenders from Peter White.  Because the fenders have a 
flattish profile, they fit, but it's a bit tight.  Minh has remarked after he 
saw the bike on the GAP Riv Rally East 2012 ride that he'd be uncomfortable 
with the clearance.  I'm ok with it, but he's right that you certainly couldn't 
get any bigger tire in there with a fender.  If you wanted to be safer on the 
clearance and were willing to sacrifice a little coverage (you guys don't get 
much in the way of downpours, right?), you could use flat profile Woody's 
fenders.  I have a set on my Quickbeam, and I like them quite a bit.  Woody's: 
http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/   The Quickbeam's fenders:  
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4411492545/in/set-72157623567913352

Tom

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Hugh Smitham
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 3:12 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

Tom, never mind I see the "p" clamps on the Atlantis.

So if I understand the hardware that came with the rack were the short stays 
meant to attach at the canti bosses with double threaded studs (not included 
with rack) and longer stays? The long one's are meant for mid fork braze on's 
which on the Atlantis didn't work as the Paul canti's were in the way. Is there 
a reason you didn't use the double stud or are the Paul's a different beast and 
require a Paul specific bolt? And I've heard that the longer stays need to be 
purchased separately.

The Stumpjumper I see you mounted to the canti bosses and it appears your not 
using Paul's on that bike so it must be a Paul thing. Interestingly I am 
planning on using Paul Tour Canti's on my Atlantis.

Another question. What if you know is the largest tire and fender combo that 
can be run safely on the Atlantis? You mentioned to Minh that you had fenders 
but the clearance was tight. What was the combo?

Thanks for dealing with all these questions but you've tread where I'm going :-)

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving." -- 
Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:54 AM, Hugh Smitham 
mailto:hughsmit...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Tom,

Is it possible to get some close up's of the Atlantis rack mounting, especially 
at the top mounting point?

~Hugh

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving." -- 
Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Minh 
mailto:mgiangs...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Tom,

On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the way?)  
i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the braze-ons--though it is 
really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but my Campee BFR is the older 
one


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
Hugh:

I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates "Campée" that 
don't attach to the fork crown - one has the removable lowriders and mounts to 
the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork brazeons.  I 
have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, which require the 
Paul bolts for rack mounting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that bike 
made it impossible to use the brazeons - I had to use P-clamps.  Pic here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755  
I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).

Tom

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Mike Schiller]

Hey Hugh, I have a set of the special double threaded bolts for the Paul 
Comp brakes that you can have if you want.  

Also I noticed Tom's Atlantis is a 700C model and you have a 26" model. 
>From what I've seen and heard the 26" Atlantis can fit a larger tire than 
the 700C version

~mike
Carlsbad Ca.


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[RBW] Re: Cotton and Wool Winter Army Gear

[Montclair BobbyB]

Michael:

I hate the idea of dry-cleaning for active wear, so (at least for mine) 
I'll plan to wash it in Woolite (or similar product)... haven't yet; only 
wore it once.

Good luck.
BB



On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 4:07:18 PM UTC-5, frenchosa wrote:
>
> Montclair BobbyB:
>
> I am interested in the Swedish military wool sweater.   It says dry clean 
> only...Can you get away with washing it by hand or in a washing machine?
>
> I don't like to use dry cleaning on my outdoor clothes.   
>
> Michael
> Osaka, Japan
>
> On Monday, February 3, 2014 12:50:25 AM UTC+9, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>>
>> I got a little creative this year with my winter gear, 
>> trading synthetic (lycra, fleece and Gore Tex) for some traditional wool 
>> and cotton Army gear, and boy am I glad I did.  We've had some fabulous 
>> winter conditions for snowshoeing and mountain biking here in NJ and I got 
>> to put my new gear to the test.  For the past week the snow has been too 
>> deep and powdery (a rarity for NJ), which is great for showshoeing, and 
>> thanks to steady foot traffic the trails have become semi-packed, adequate 
>> for 2.3 in knobbies to climb and descend even the steep trails...
>>
>> I've recently acquired 2 pieces of Swedish Army surplus gear; a 100% wool 
>> zipper sweater with extra long sleeves (with thumb holes), and a heavy 
>> cotton snow smock, both awesome and inexpensive.  For warmth on yesterday's 
>> ride I wore 2 layers of wool (a thin Merino base layer and the Swedish 
>> sweater). For my outer shell I wore the snow smock.  Typically I had been 
>> used to shedding layers at the top of a major climb (from 
>> over-heating)... With this wool-cotton setup the heat buildup was more 
>> gradual, and seemed to dissipate MUCH faster (due to the high breathability 
>> of the fabric).  I posted a few weeks ago that I had also picked up a 
>> wool "Boreal" shirt (made from wool army blankets), which is 
>> SO ridiculously warm I left that at home.  But for super cold days the wool 
>> Boreal and the cotton snow smock make an outstanding combo for active wear 
>> where you expect to be perspiring.
>>
>> And although it's not Army surplus, I added a Ventile 
>> cotton jacket (which WAS developed by the British military) as my 
>> everyday winter jacket that I wear to the office.. it just FEELS amazing.
>>
>> I do get some odd looks and smiles from people, *(especially my brother, 
>> who refers to me as "Luke Skywalker")* when I'm wearing the snow smock, 
>> I REALLY love this gear, and am now on the lookout for other similar gear 
>> from military establishments around the world... *(hey, this stuff is 
>> field-tested, right?)*   Anyone else a fan of *(peacetime use)* of 
>> army gear?? 
>>
>> Peace,
>> BB 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cotton and Wool Winter Army Gear

[Deacon Patrick]

We don't dry clean anything. Wash in cold water with detergent free soap 
(add in some lanolin if you wish). Drip dry only, no dryer, wringing out or 
running through a roller.

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:07:18 PM UTC-7, frenchosa wrote:
>
> Montclair BobbyB:
>
> I am interested in the Swedish military wool sweater.   It says dry clean 
> only...Can you get away with washing it by hand or in a washing machine?
>
> I don't like to use dry cleaning on my outdoor clothes.   
>
> Michael
> Osaka, Japan
>
> On Monday, February 3, 2014 12:50:25 AM UTC+9, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>>
>> I got a little creative this year with my winter gear, 
>> trading synthetic (lycra, fleece and Gore Tex) for some traditional wool 
>> and cotton Army gear, and boy am I glad I did.  We've had some fabulous 
>> winter conditions for snowshoeing and mountain biking here in NJ and I got 
>> to put my new gear to the test.  For the past week the snow has been too 
>> deep and powdery (a rarity for NJ), which is great for showshoeing, and 
>> thanks to steady foot traffic the trails have become semi-packed, adequate 
>> for 2.3 in knobbies to climb and descend even the steep trails...
>>
>> I've recently acquired 2 pieces of Swedish Army surplus gear; a 100% wool 
>> zipper sweater with extra long sleeves (with thumb holes), and a heavy 
>> cotton snow smock, both awesome and inexpensive.  For warmth on yesterday's 
>> ride I wore 2 layers of wool (a thin Merino base layer and the Swedish 
>> sweater). For my outer shell I wore the snow smock.  Typically I had been 
>> used to shedding layers at the top of a major climb (from 
>> over-heating)... With this wool-cotton setup the heat buildup was more 
>> gradual, and seemed to dissipate MUCH faster (due to the high breathability 
>> of the fabric).  I posted a few weeks ago that I had also picked up a 
>> wool "Boreal" shirt (made from wool army blankets), which is 
>> SO ridiculously warm I left that at home.  But for super cold days the wool 
>> Boreal and the cotton snow smock make an outstanding combo for active wear 
>> where you expect to be perspiring.
>>
>> And although it's not Army surplus, I added a Ventile 
>> cotton jacket (which WAS developed by the British military) as my 
>> everyday winter jacket that I wear to the office.. it just FEELS amazing.
>>
>> I do get some odd looks and smiles from people, *(especially my brother, 
>> who refers to me as "Luke Skywalker")* when I'm wearing the snow smock, 
>> I REALLY love this gear, and am now on the lookout for other similar gear 
>> from military establishments around the world... *(hey, this stuff is 
>> field-tested, right?)*   Anyone else a fan of *(peacetime use)* of 
>> army gear?? 
>>
>> Peace,
>> BB 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Minh]

> For some reason i still can't figure out which rack Hugh is wanting to 
> use!  the one with the detachable low racks, or the BFR (rack #1 or rack #2 
> in Tom's pictures!)
>

 

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Re: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack?

[Minh]

Actually i have a nitto rack with two 'stumps' covered with threaded ends, 
always been curious if there was a matching tombstone!  i've debated making 
one but that bike the rear rack is to support a saddle bag so no tombstone 
needed.


On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 7:52:44 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> A removable tombstone would not be difficult.  A couple of short stumps 
> that are part of the rack rails to mount to.  A hoop that slips over the 
> stumps, and either a set screw or thumb screw to tighten the hoop onto the 
> stumps.  
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:31:06 PM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
>>
>>
>> I hate it when the tombstone gets in the way of the big saddlebag.
>>
>> Wouldn't it be neat if the rack could have a tombstone that's removable, 
>> because it is nice to have the tombstone to help stabilize the big loafer.
>>
>>
>> -Original Message- 
>> From: Bill Lindsay 
>> Sent: Feb 5, 2014 2:33 PM 
>> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
>> Subject: [RBW] another new Nitto rear rack? 
>>
>> Three Cheviut shots on the BLUG.  First is a Medium (55).  Second is a 
>> Large (60).  Both the Medium and Large have a rear rack that looks a lot 
>> like an R-14, but there is no tombstone.  It's just a flat platform.  That 
>> might be better for some saddlebag support configurations.  It might be 
>> worse if you want to run a trunksack.  Interesting.  
>>
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>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front rack installation?

[Hugh Smitham]

Minh,

The one with detachable low rider attachments :-)
On Feb 6, 2014 1:29 PM, "Minh"  wrote:

>
> For some reason i still can't figure out which rack Hugh is wanting to
>> use!  the one with the detachable low racks, or the BFR (rack #1 or rack #2
>> in Tom's pictures!)
>>
>
>
>
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[RBW] FS: 60 cm SimpleOne complete bike

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

For sale: SimpleOne bike, complete, 60cm. Includes everything shown in the 
picture. Wheels are cosmetically matching Mavic rims (719 in front and 319 
in back). Rear hub is All-City flip-flop, front hub is a mystery unit. 
Alfine crank 39t, White Industries 2-speed 17/19t freewheel plus extra 
Shimano freewheel, Berthoud fenders, Nitto rack, 46 cm Noodle bar, 
Technomic deluxe stem (9 cm or so), Nitto Dynamic 626 seatpost, Schwalbe 
Marathon Racer tires, WTB Speed V saddle, Tektro v-brakes and levers (front 
brake is sticky and will be replaced with new). 

The frame has a few minor scratches, but nothing serious. The parts are all 
in good condition, but used, of course.

Asking $1550 including professional packing and insured UPS shipping to a 
CONUS address.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm SimpleOne complete bike

[Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery]

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 3:38:38 PM UTC-6, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> For sale: SimpleOne bike, complete, 60cm. Includes everything shown in the 
> picture. Wheels are cosmetically matching Mavic rims (719 in front and 319 
> in back). Rear hub is All-City flip-flop, front hub is a mystery unit. 
> Alfine crank 39t, White Industries 2-speed 17/19t freewheel plus extra 
> Shimano freewheel, Berthoud fenders, Nitto rack, 46 cm Noodle bar, 
> Technomic deluxe stem (9 cm or so), Nitto Dynamic 626 seatpost, Schwalbe 
> Marathon Racer tires, WTB Speed V saddle, Tektro v-brakes and levers (front 
> brake is sticky and will be replaced with new). 
>
> The frame has a few minor scratches, but nothing serious. The parts are 
> all in good condition, but used, of course.
>
> Asking $1550 including professional packing and insured UPS shipping to a 
> CONUS address.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Philip Williamson]

In my opinion, RBW bikes are overbuilt to go where other road bikes 
wouldn't necessarily go. Cushy tires also cushion the frame, in my opinion.
I weigh 241 (down 10+ lbs in the last month!), and I've ridden my Quickbeam 
on singletrack and gravel logging roads where it (again, in my opinion) 
completely belongs. Fun! Safe! No warranty expressed or implied!

Philip
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 12:20:09 PM UTC-8, Mike K. wrote:
>
> I'm 6' even, about 155lb. I could probably take a Sam a few places it's 
> not expected to go, but I usually don't go those places anyway, so we'd 
> both be out of place.
>
> On Thursday, February 6, 2014 12:27:29 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>
>> Also consider how much you weigh. I'm pretty much a waif so I take my 
>> Hilsen places where it maybe shouldn't go.
>>
>> Yeah.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rear rack for Sam

[dougP]

Bruce:

Rear racks are much easier to mount than fronts.  There's just a lot more 
open area back there.  IME (various cantis plus V-brakes) the only 
potential conflicts have been with brake cables and there is always some 
combination of connecting the horizontal struts to the seat stays that 
avoids interference.  The struts can mount to either the inside or outside 
of the hourglass and the aluminum struts can be bent if needed.  

dougP

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 11:47:24 AM UTC-8, Bruce Baker wrote:
>
> Speaking of rear racks which one fits the best on the Sam.  I'm thinking 
> of getting panniers for runs to the farmers market this spring.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 6, 2014, at 2:39 PM, Minh > wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because you 
> couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in the 
> way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the 
> braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but 
> my Campee BFR is the older one
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>>
>>  Hugh:
>>
>>  
>>
>> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates “Campée” 
>> that don’t attach to the fork crown – one has the removable lowriders and 
>> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork 
>> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis, 
>> which require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>>
>> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on that 
>> bike made it impossible to use the brazeons – I had to use P-clamps.  Pic 
>> here:
>>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755
>>  I took it off, partly for that reason (although I really like that rack).
>>
>>  
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>  
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rear rack for Sam

[Tim Gavin]

If you're getting a bike to carry panniers, decide how you want to hang
them.  Most classic (Blackburn style) racks carry the panniers at the top.
 This works fine, but makes for higher center of gravity and makes it
harder to mount another bag or basket on the top of the rack.
[image: Inline image 1]Blackburn EX-1

Some Tubus racks (and many other brands) have a second set of rails a
couple inches lower than the top, to lower the panniers and free up the
rack platform.
[image: Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack Black]Tubus Logo Evo

The Nitto Campee racks take this a step further, and have removable
lowrider frames that center the panniers at the hub level, making your bike
even more stable.
[image: Inline image 2]Nitto Campee rear (the similarly named Nitto
Mt-Campee is different)

I like the Campee racks because they look like French Constructeur racks
with the lowrider frames removed, and can still carry heavy panniers when I
put the frames back on.  (I just picked up a front and rear set from
listmembers, woo hoo!)

The racks above are listed in order of cost, coincidentally.  You get what
you pay for.

Cheers,
Tim


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:43 PM, dougP  wrote:

> Bruce:
>
> Rear racks are much easier to mount than fronts.  There's just a lot more
> open area back there.  IME (various cantis plus V-brakes) the only
> potential conflicts have been with brake cables and there is always some
> combination of connecting the horizontal struts to the seat stays that
> avoids interference.  The struts can mount to either the inside or outside
> of the hourglass and the aluminum struts can be bent if needed.
>
> dougP
>
> On Thursday, February 6, 2014 11:47:24 AM UTC-8, Bruce Baker wrote:
>>
>> Speaking of rear racks which one fits the best on the Sam.  I'm thinking
>> of getting panniers for runs to the farmers market this spring.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 6, 2014, at 2:39 PM, Minh  wrote:
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> On the atlantis, is the reason you could not use the brazeon's because
>> you couldn't push the rack far enough back to line them up (brake was in
>> the way?)  i just put this combo on a SH, and was able to use the
>> braze-ons--though it is really tight and the rack is not quite level.  but
>> my Campee BFR is the older one
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 9:37:35 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hugh:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I think there are at least two front racks that Nitto designates "Campée"
>>> that don't attach to the fork crown - one has the removable lowriders and
>>> mounts to the canti bolts, and the other is supposed to mount to mid-fork
>>> brazeons.  I have the former on my Stumpjumper, here with Paul cantis,
>>> which require the Paul bolts for rack mounting:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/9785981285/sizes/
>>> o/in/set-72157635815847045/
>>>
>>> I used to have the latter on my Atlantis, but the Paul Neo-Retros on
>>> that bike made it impossible to use the brazeons - I had to use P-clamps.
>>> Pic here:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/
>>> set-72157624427413755  I took it off, partly for that reason (although
>>> I really like that rack).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>>
>>>
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<><>

Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Tim Gavin]

I agree, Rivs are overbuilt compared to most road bikes.  And that's a
great thing!  They last a lifetime and withstand dents well.  I can squish
the center of the top tube of my gofast bike with one finger and thumb!
 Too thin!  (Giordana with heat-treated Excell Eco steel)

You won't notice the extra ounces from the slightly thicker tubing when
you're riding.  You will notice it 20 years from now when your Riv still
looks good and rides straight.


On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> In my opinion, RBW bikes are overbuilt to go where other road bikes
> wouldn't necessarily go. Cushy tires also cushion the frame, in my opinion.
> I weigh 241 (down 10+ lbs in the last month!), and I've ridden my
> Quickbeam on singletrack and gravel logging roads where it (again, in my
> opinion) completely belongs. Fun! Safe! No warranty expressed or implied!
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
> On Thursday, February 6, 2014 12:20:09 PM UTC-8, Mike K. wrote:
>>
>> I'm 6' even, about 155lb. I could probably take a Sam a few places it's
>> not expected to go, but I usually don't go those places anyway, so we'd
>> both be out of place.
>>
>> On Thursday, February 6, 2014 12:27:29 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>>
>>> Also consider how much you weigh. I'm pretty much a waif so I take my
>>> Hilsen places where it maybe shouldn't go.
>>>
>>> Yeah.
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

[ascpgh]

So much of what I read and hear discussed about the perfect rear wheel 
involves equalizing the stresses on each side of the rear wheel. If you 
started with a hub of differing flange diameters, a wide OLD and were not 
bent on 11 cogs, I'll bet you could reach symmetry nirvana , which an 
asymmetrically drilled rim violates. 

On behalf of the Bontrager Fairlane asymmetric rear wheel that came from 
Walnut creek on my orange Ram, which took me across country, continued to 
roll right and true, beyond the right rear dropout breaking (repaired over 
that winter by the same fine folks), and was only replaced two years ago 
with a set of PW wheels because the front took and an inadvertent pothole 
wank, I have had no trouble with the off center drilling of rims. While not 
clydesdale, I'm 185#, 6' and have been known to overcome inappropriate 
terrain with time-learned technique and enthusiasm. 

That old Fairlane wheel is hanging downstairs right now, mostly for some 
chain scarf on the drive side spokes occurring when I had an inopportune 
dismount at speed when the bike was a month and a half old. 

I accept your reality, and only stand inquisitively looking at the examples 
I have in hand in confusion.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 10:08:55 AM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> Allow me to present an opposing opinion on asymmetrical rims... In my 
> opinion they attempt to solve a problem that isn't really a problem, and 
> they go about solving it the wrong way.  To begin with, why is having a 
> dished rear wheel really such a problem, unless you hate having to buy 2 
> spoke sizes to build your wheels?  I hear people argue about wheel 
> strength, but who says you can't build a dished wheel that is strong?  I've 
> never trashed a dished wheel merely because it's dished... I've built a 
> fair number of wheels, and I'm a big dude. Second, an asymm rim 
> concentrates the weight (and stress) on the side of the rim (and therefore 
> the side of the tire), not the center.  I say it belongs in the center, 
> wouldn't you?.  And if in the end you really hate the idea of having dish 
> in your rear wheel, I say start with HUB selection, not the rim. Think 
> about it; with asymm rims you're merely offsetting asymmetry with more 
> asymmetry... Why not just begin (and stick with) symmetry, period?  
>
> I admit I like being able to buy one size of spokes for both sides, but 
> I'm struggling with the whole asymm thing... Somebody please help convince 
> me.
>
> Peace,
>
> Bobby "I admit my face is asymmetrical" Birmingham 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 4:48:19 PM UTC-5, mike goldman wrote:
>>
>> yes, you can use spokes if its off by a mm or 2. 
>>
>> i try to keep a differential of 2mm between rear spokes rounding down for 
>> the right side as to pull the rim over for dish 
>>  
>> How to Sleep Like a Rock 
>> Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. 
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f2b1f47e82331f46087st04duc 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

[Steve Palincsar]

On 02/06/2014 06:08 PM, Tim Gavin wrote:
I agree, Rivs are overbuilt compared to most road bikes.  And that's a 
great thing!  They last a lifetime and withstand dents well.  I can 
squish the center of the top tube of my gofast bike with one finger 
and thumb!  Too thin!  (Giordana with heat-treated Excell Eco steel)


You won't notice the extra ounces from the slightly thicker tubing 
when you're riding.  You will notice it 20 years from now when your 
Riv still looks good and rides straight.




There are two things wrong with this post:

1) you may not notice the weight of the thicker tubing, but you probably 
will notice the additional stiffness.  If you need that level of 
stiffness, then fine; but if not, performance is going to suffer and you 
will definitely feel it.


2) You're saying thin tubing won't last; not at all necessarily true.  
My George Longstaff is made with standard gauge 7/5/7 with an 8/5/8 
downtube.  It was built in 1991, and the original owner rode it in 
numerous brevets and grand randonnees including the 100th anniversary 
PBP, for which it was built, rode it across the country on Pac Tour, and 
then used it for years as his year round daily commuter in Boston.  It's 
23 years old, has gone probably three times farther than most bikes go 
in their lifetimes, and it's still doing just fine.  And this is just 
about as flexible a frame as any of us is likely to encounter.


The chief reason Riv's are overbuilt IMO is their use of oversize 
tubing.  8/5/8 in a standard diameter is equally sturdy, equally thick, 
but considerably less stiff and thus feels less "overbuilt."



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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks, MKS, Nitto, Sackville, Tires

[john muhl]

Remaining items:

$15 MKS Touring/XC Pedals

$20 Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 10cm 26.0 - sanded down to 22.0mm.

$30 Nitto Moustache Bar (or $40 and I'll include the above DD stem)

$70 Grand Bois Cyprès (standard) 650b x 32 mm (x2) - barely ridden, 
basically
new.

$70 Soma C-Line Tires (black) 700c x 38mm (x2) - low milage, lots of life 
still.

$75 Sackville TrunkSack Small (olive)

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[RBW] Re: Will a Hilsen fit the Rock N Road Tires?

[frank_a]

It will depend on what generation Hilsen you have. The earliest production 
runs will not fit the rock n' road. 
 - Frank
On Thursday, March 28, 2013 5:50:06 PM UTC-4, Cycletex wrote:
>
> I just read somewhere back in the archives that a Hilsen will (just 
> barely) fit a Marathon Supreme 50c tire which leads me to wonder if the BG 
> Rock N Road tire might fit also. Kinda thinking the side knobs might rub 
> but now I'm curious. Anyone have any experience with this combo? 
> Thanks in advance, 
> Clif
>

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[RBW] Re: Will a Hilsen fit the Rock N Road Tires?

[john muhl]

RnR on my 61cm late 2012 Atlantis w/  60cm Berthoud fenders had plenty of 
space in every direction.

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 8:22:40 PM UTC-6, William! wrote:
>
> How close was it? Thinking of throwing a set on my Atlantis, but fenders 
> are a must (I'm also in portland)...
>
> On Friday, March 29, 2013 4:31:55 AM UTC-7, Dennis Hogan wrote:
>>
>> My AHH fit the R&R's without fenders. The ride was amazing on road and 
>> gravel. Unfortunately, I 
>> am in Portland and could not fit fenders with them. They were sold to a 
>> list member. I am currently running Continental Cyclecross 42 that Riv 
>> stocked at one time and they work with SLS Urban Cross 65 fenders
>
>

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[RBW] FS 56 Single top tube Sam Hillborne, FF/hs

[frank_a]

 Hello all,
 I'm selling my 56cm single top tube Sam Hillborne. It's blue with cream 
head tube and lug cut outs. I've probably put less than 100 mies on the 
frame. This was one of the frame specials from last year. 
The frame is in nearly new condition with only the expected paint loss at 
the dropouts, fork ends and kickstand plate~things that would be consistent 
with riding the bike for a few weeks. I've got two customs and a Saluki and 
there is a lot of overlap. I had plans for this to be my Albatross bike but 
one of my customs has very similar geometry with a longer top tube and it's 
a better fit. It has taken that space (albatross bike).

 $800.00 plus actual shipping. Frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket and new 
unused seat post. I will ship it in the original box from Rivendell.

 Here's a set of photos from my flickr page: 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/sets/72157636884446603/ 

 Please contact me off list.
 Thanks,
 - Frank

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[RBW] Re: Will a Hilsen fit the Rock N Road Tires?

[William!]

How close was it? Thinking of throwing a set on my Atlantis, but fenders 
are a must (I'm also in portland)...

On Friday, March 29, 2013 4:31:55 AM UTC-7, Dennis Hogan wrote:
>
> My AHH fit the R&R's without fenders. The ride was amazing on road and 
> gravel. Unfortunately, I 
> am in Portland and could not fit fenders with them. They were sold to a 
> list member. I am currently running Continental Cyclecross 42 that Riv 
> stocked at one time and they work with SLS Urban Cross 65 fenders

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[RBW] Re: Yes, another winter For Sale post: Carradice, Carradice-esque, Exustar touring shoes, Ibex wool bike shorts, frame pump.

[Shawn Granton]

*UPDATE:* All that is left are the shoes and the shorts, everything else 
bought/claimed.

Shoes are now *$35* postpaid.

Shorts are now *$55 *postpaid.

Buy *both* for *$80.*

-Shawn

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[RBW] Zefal HPX frame pump question...

[Michael]

Question: When I hold the pump and turn it upside down, then right side up, 
I hear a metal thing sliding inside along the tube. Is this supposed to be 
that way, or is it broken? Sounds like a loose spring sliding and then 
"duh-duh-duh-duh-duh" to a stop.  Seems to pump fine and work great.
Thanks for your experienced answer.

Arrived today, and it goes on the valve and off the valve and easier to 
pump than any pump I've pumped. Comes off the valve with 0 loss of air. Not 
a sound. Very cool.
Just barely fits my 52 Sam frame - but fits (at full retraction makes it by 
about 1mm to clear the pump peg and then snap into place).
I think it took about 110 pumps to get to 50psi on my Marathon 44-584 
tires, which is nice.

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[RBW] Re: FS 56 Single top tube Sam Hillborne, FF/hs

[Bruce Smitham]

Hi Frank, I'm interested in your Sam Hillborne frameset. Can you call me at 
310-968-6910 or email at: bsmit...@jlohr.com to discuss. I can purchase but 
wanted to see if you could go a little less on the price? Thanks, Bruce

On Thursday, February 6, 2014 7:07:45 PM UTC-8, frank_a wrote:
>
>  Hello all,
>  I'm selling my 56cm single top tube Sam Hillborne. It's blue with cream 
> head tube and lug cut outs. I've probably put less than 100 mies on the 
> frame. This was one of the frame specials from last year. 
> The frame is in nearly new condition with only the expected paint loss at 
> the dropouts, fork ends and kickstand plate~things that would be consistent 
> with riding the bike for a few weeks. I've got two customs and a Saluki and 
> there is a lot of overlap. I had plans for this to be my Albatross bike but 
> one of my customs has very similar geometry with a longer top tube and it's 
> a better fit. It has taken that space (albatross bike).
>
>  $800.00 plus actual shipping. Frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket and 
> new unused seat post. I will ship it in the original box from Rivendell.
>
>  Here's a set of photos from my flickr page: 
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/sets/72157636884446603/ 
>
>  Please contact me off list.
>  Thanks,
>  - Frank
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS- lots of bike items: Dia Compe, Campy

[Bruce Smitham]

On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 7:37:39 PM UTC-8, Bruce Smitham wrote:
>
> *Bike items for sale-*
>
> Prefer local pick up in San Diego but will consider shipping. Make me an 
> offer if you like. Email: bsmit...@jlohr.com or call/text 310-968-6910 to 
> discuss
>
> Dia Compe road brake levers, long pull for linear brakes in good condition 
> $20
>
> Slime Smart Tube 26 X 1.75-2.125 presta- new in box $5
>
> Chamois Butter almost new $5
>
> Cloud 9 saddle in very good condition $10
>
> Campagnolo Athena 11 speed chain in excellent condition- less than 20 
> miles. Shortened for compact crank 50 X 25 tooth cassette $20
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks, MKS, Nitto, Sackville, Tires

[tommynguyen]

Hey John,
I am Interested in mks pedals and  sackville trunksack, please email me at 
tnguyen...@me.com. Thanks!

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[RBW] Show me your albatrosses!

[Conway Bennett]

Captain Conway in Chicago here.  I'm an avid reader of the group but a sporadic 
poster.  In any case I'm a sucker for riv sales campaign so I'm the new owner 
of some albatrosses which will steering my beloved riv'd out cross check.  So, 
can all you proud alba mommas and poppas send your flickr hot links for 
inspiration?

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Re: [RBW] FS 56 Single top tube Sam Hillborne, FF/hs

[James Warren]

Isn't that a rare bird? How did you pull off a 56 cm in that color with the single top tube?It's beautiful. (But nothing against 2TT!) If I know someone looking, I'll steer them your way.-Original Message-
From: frank_a 
Sent: Feb 6, 2014 7:07 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] FS 56 Single top tube Sam Hillborne, FF/hs

 Hello all, I'm selling my 56cm single top tube Sam Hillborne. It's blue with cream head tube and lug cut outs. I've probably put less than 100 mies on the frame. This was one of the frame specials from last year. The frame is in nearly new condition with only the expected paint loss at the dropouts, fork ends and kickstand plate~things that would be consistent with riding the bike for a few weeks. I've got two customs and a Saluki and there is a lot of overlap. I had plans for this to be my Albatross bike but one of my customs has very similar geometry with a longer top tube and it's a better fit. It has taken that space (albatross bike). $800.00 plus actual shipping. Frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket and new unused seat post. I will ship it in the original box from Rivendell. Here's a set of photos from my flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/sets/72157636884446603/  Please contact me off list. Thanks, - Frank



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