[RBW] Son of More Entmoot

2014-07-21 Thread Brian Hanson
It took me a while to process the trip, and how much fun it was.  Super
relaxing time away with like-minded amazing folks!  This group is really a
great find!  Special call-outs to the Portland and So-cal crew who shared
the ride with me down to the Bay Area!  It made the 20-hrs of driving
really fly by.  I hope Ryan had a good ride back to Michigan, as well!

Photos are here:  https://flic.kr/s/aHsjZDgzVm

And writeup: http://stonehog.com/2014/07/20/entmoot/

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA

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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread Tom Harrop
That is strange. I'm pretty sure it's one of the older-style forks crown 
with (a bit) less clearance. The newer fork crowns have what Brian 
described as a 'frown'. Here's a photo from Leslie's flickr where the new 
frowning fork crown really obvious: https://flic.kr/p/bq9xMA. More on this 
later, but the 60 mm Big Apples which are perfect for my new-style Bombadil 
look to be OK on my recently acquired old-style Bombadil (haven't ridden it 
but they fit.)... so I'm not sure if moving the posts for a switch from 
650B -- 26″ would really make a huge difference to tyre clearance on the 
old-style Bombadil, since there's a reasonable amount of clearance already?

In the photos on that ebay listing the pads *seem* to be near the bottom of 
the slot in the V-brake so maybe 650B could be made to work with the right 
brake?

Ahh, so much fun speculatin' on bikes for sale.

Happy mondays,

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread cyclotourist
Seller replied to me, and while kinda' cryptic, implied that as Bombas are
semi-custom, s/he requested it built for 26.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 11:27 PM, Tom Harrop twhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 That is strange. I'm pretty sure it's one of the older-style forks crown
 with (a bit) less clearance. The newer fork crowns have what Brian
 described as a 'frown'. Here's a photo from Leslie's flickr where the new
 frowning fork crown really obvious: https://flic.kr/p/bq9xMA. More on
 this later, but the 60 mm Big Apples which are perfect for my new-style
 Bombadil look to be OK on my recently acquired old-style Bombadil (haven't
 ridden it but they fit.)... so I'm not sure if moving the posts for a
 switch from 650B -- 26″ would really make a huge difference to tyre
 clearance on the old-style Bombadil, since there's a reasonable amount of
 clearance already?

 In the photos on that ebay listing the pads *seem* to be near the bottom
 of the slot in the V-brake so maybe 650B could be made to work with the
 right brake?

 Ahh, so much fun speculatin' on bikes for sale.

 Happy mondays,

 Tom

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[RBW] Bosco'd Trail Ride

2014-07-21 Thread Tony DeFilippo
http://dr2dc.blogspot.com/2014/07/thursday-night-trail-riding-happy-100th.html

Wow was this fun!  Close to me is a great intro mountain bike trail at 
Wakefield Park in VA.  I believe it is considered a pretty easy, or 'not to 
technical' trail but I'm definitely not the right person to judge that at 
this point.  Regardless, I've been 3 or 4 times over the past year after I 
discovered it during an LBS's fatbike demo ride day last year.  This past 
week I met up with a friend from work who is a very serious mountainbiker 
(full suspension, downhill, cross country and all that) named Jonathan. 
 Best part about this was that aside from the great conversation I was able 
to follow him around the ~8 miles of trails without having to figure out 
where we were going all the time.  Being able to concentrate on the trail 
was great.  The other fun thing about Wakefield is that in the summer they 
don't close you down at sunset, if equipped with lights you can stay and 
ride on, so we didn't get off the trail till a bit after 9PM.  It wasn't 
truly dark when we wrapped up but it was getting that way under the canopy 
in places.

But on to the Riv-ish content, the bike is my oft re-imagined MB-5 pictured 
below.  Since I've had this bike it started as a straight bar 'stock' MB-5 
then morphed into a moustache bar till I realized I just couldn't get the 
bars up high enough for comfort about a year ago, then it became a 
bullmoose rig which was also a bit low on the bars than I had wanted.  The 
frame is clearly to small for me for most applications so I started 
thinking about the Alba's or a Bosco and when I finally sold one of my 
other garage queen frames I sprung for the 55cm (cromo) bosco bars.  For 
further bstone/riv interest the brake levers and Ritchey rubber grips came 
off my XO-3's M-Bars!  I honestly think the bosco's are pretty awkward 
looking at least on this bike... maybe the bosco-bullmooses would look 
better.  But looks aside I loved the results on the trail.  I had a 
tremendous amount of turning leverage and felt very comfortable in the 
saddle.  The bars did contribute to my weight being further back on the 
rear wheel which made me pop up the front a couple times on short, steep 
hills but I think I can learn to compensate for that.  I was definitely the 
only rider I saw with a frame pump, large seat bag, 2x water bottles on the 
frame... not to mention the rim brakes, 'small' 2.1 tires and friction 
shifting! :)

It was alot of fun picking my way through and around the trails that my 
buddy was blasting over on his full suspension bike, I know I haven't spent 
much time doing this kind of riding but at least so far I'm not feeling 
limited by my older equipment setup.  I'm pretty slow anyway, and I can 
pick my way through the stuff I don't want to attempt for now.  So a very 
happy Bosco customer in the offroad category here in VA!  Happy riding 
everyone.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HZ6Iv7mOwYA/U8iZ7tqquCI/E5M/lF-IuRd0yUc/s1600/DSC_3973.jpg

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Re: [RBW] QR question

2014-07-21 Thread Matthew J
The original post did not say what sort of hubs were on the wheel set. I 
see now the OP did later post the wheel set is based around LX.

On Sunday, July 20, 2014 7:48:51 AM UTC-5, Christopher Murray wrote:

 As has already been stated, Shimano hubs come with QRs so it is actually 
 nothing like that all. It is more like ordering a combo meal that comes 
 with coffee and then not getting coffee. Or something.

 Cheers,
 Chris


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Re: [RBW] QR question

2014-07-21 Thread Matthew J
Oh yeah - As I have not eaten at McDonalds (or any other fast food 
restaurant for that matter) in years.  Beyond me how anyone can subject 
themselves to food in a restaurant that calls its efforts Combo-Meals. 
 Does not sound edible, whatever it's content may be.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 6:57:21 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:

 The original post did not say what sort of hubs were on the wheel set. I 
 see now the OP did later post the wheel set is based around LX.

 On Sunday, July 20, 2014 7:48:51 AM UTC-5, Christopher Murray wrote:

 As has already been stated, Shimano hubs come with QRs so it is actually 
 nothing like that all. It is more like ordering a combo meal that comes 
 with coffee and then not getting coffee. Or something.

 Cheers,
 Chris



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[RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

2014-07-21 Thread Christian
Hi All,

Many folks here note that they needed to do some fiddling with their Paul's 
to get them set up right.  I'm curious what tricks people have used to get 
the best performance out of their Paul cantis?  I have touring cantis and 
they're fine.  Beautiful, of course, but performance wise they're not world 
changing.  I gotta say, however, that the super cheap Deore V brakes on my 
LHT--pulled by mtn levers on albatross bars--work every bit as good if not 
better.   

Anyway, set up tips, tricks, etc would be good to know about.  

Thanks,

Christian 

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Re: [RBW] I love 11-34!

2014-07-21 Thread Christian
Or better yet get 
this: http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/giant-cog-for-shimano

On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:16:29 AM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:

 Wait till you try 11-36 or 11-36!


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 20, 2014, at 9:03 PM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Installed a HG50 9 speed 11-34 last week on my Riv along with a new Deore 
 M-591 SGS rear derailer and a new KMC chain.  I have been extremely pleased 
 with this setup so far.  I'm just wondering why I waited so long to make 
 the change.

 One thing I didn't expect is that it allows me to ride in the big ring a 
 lot more because the number of teeth jump up much faster than on a cassette 
 with closer spaced gears, it seems.  I don't mind the gears spacing further 
 apart either, I have usually tended to make 2 and 3 gear shifts at a time 
 anyway.  With this cassette, I don't have to.

 I have not had to use the granny once since getting this setup.  I'm 
 almost 1:1 in the middle ring now at 36-34.  Good stuff.

 Although now I am thinking I might like to try this bike setup as a 
 wide-low double.  Decisions, decisions.  ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 

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Re: [RBW] Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Scott Henry
If they made one with the spacer the same outer diameter, there wouldn't be
enough aluminum to tap out and thread for the bell bolt.   The only way to
get a spacer mounted bell is to use a thicker spacer.
Scott


On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 1:05 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Looks like the outer spacer mount diameter bulges out wider than the
 regular spacer diameters on 1 steerers, like the pic on the rivsite (
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bellhed.htm)

 So I was wondering, does it stick out on yours, or is it just that way in
 that pic they have on the site?

 One of my favorite features of Riv bikes are the shot-glasses - the
 pretty stack of headset spacers. I don't want to ruin the line.

 Maybe I am just cork grip sniffing about this, but it's one of the things
 I find beautiful on these bikes.

 So just want to know how it really is so I can stop mulling and either get
 one, or wait until they start selling one with a uniform outer diameter for
 1 spacers.

 Didn't they have one with an aluminum (silver colored) bell on it once?
 That would be a nice match for all the silver color on these bikes.


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Re: [RBW] Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Peter Morgano
Is there something wrong with just using all bigger spacers on the stack so
they match?
On Jul 21, 2014 9:17 AM, Scott Henry ske...@gmail.com wrote:

 If they made one with the spacer the same outer diameter, there wouldn't
 be enough aluminum to tap out and thread for the bell bolt.   The only way
 to get a spacer mounted bell is to use a thicker spacer.
 Scott


 On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 1:05 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Looks like the outer spacer mount diameter bulges out wider than the
 regular spacer diameters on 1 steerers, like the pic on the rivsite (
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bellhed.htm)

 So I was wondering, does it stick out on yours, or is it just that way in
 that pic they have on the site?

 One of my favorite features of Riv bikes are the shot-glasses - the
 pretty stack of headset spacers. I don't want to ruin the line.

 Maybe I am just cork grip sniffing about this, but it's one of the things
 I find beautiful on these bikes.

 So just want to know how it really is so I can stop mulling and either
 get one, or wait until they start selling one with a uniform outer diameter
 for 1 spacers.

 Didn't they have one with an aluminum (silver colored) bell on it once?
 That would be a nice match for all the silver color on these bikes.


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[RBW] Re: I love 11-34!

2014-07-21 Thread Kieran J
Recently, I moved to a 1x9 spd setup, with a SRAM 11-34 in the rear, 
shifting with a 9 spd XT long cage RD. So nice, so much range.
Enjoy!

KJ
 

On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:04:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Installed a HG50 9 speed 11-34 last week on my Riv along with a new Deore 
 M-591 SGS rear derailer and a new KMC chain.  I have been extremely pleased 
 with this setup so far.  I'm just wondering why I waited so long to make 
 the change.

 One thing I didn't expect is that it allows me to ride in the big ring a 
 lot more because the number of teeth jump up much faster than on a cassette 
 with closer spaced gears, it seems.  I don't mind the gears spacing further 
 apart either, I have usually tended to make 2 and 3 gear shifts at a time 
 anyway.  With this cassette, I don't have to.

 I have not had to use the granny once since getting this setup.  I'm 
 almost 1:1 in the middle ring now at 36-34.  Good stuff.

 Although now I am thinking I might like to try this bike setup as a 
 wide-low double.  Decisions, decisions.  ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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Re: [RBW] Re: FS - White Industries, Chris King -

2014-07-21 Thread Tony DeFilippo
BUMP!!!

Any lanky fellow's looking for a sweet 180mm MUSA crank?!?  I'd also take a
trade for one that was a bit shorter.   The two MUSA hubs are likewise
doing nothing for me in the garage, make an offer!

Tony

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[RBW] Re: I love 11-34!

2014-07-21 Thread Marc Irwin
I built my Hillborne with a 36x12 and 46x30 up front.  You don't use the 
30t chainring often, but boy am I glad to have it.

Marc

On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:04:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Installed a HG50 9 speed 11-34 last week on my Riv along with a new Deore 
 M-591 SGS rear derailer and a new KMC chain.  I have been extremely pleased 
 with this setup so far.  I'm just wondering why I waited so long to make 
 the change.

 One thing I didn't expect is that it allows me to ride in the big ring a 
 lot more because the number of teeth jump up much faster than on a cassette 
 with closer spaced gears, it seems.  I don't mind the gears spacing further 
 apart either, I have usually tended to make 2 and 3 gear shifts at a time 
 anyway.  With this cassette, I don't have to.

 I have not had to use the granny once since getting this setup.  I'm 
 almost 1:1 in the middle ring now at 36-34.  Good stuff.

 Although now I am thinking I might like to try this bike setup as a 
 wide-low double.  Decisions, decisions.  ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

2014-07-21 Thread Anton Tutter
Nowhere in Schmidt's literature do they claim their SL hub is 'wireless'. 
As others have noted, a better description is 'connectorless' since you 
don't have to plug any spade terminals in.  You just insert the wheel into 
the dropouts and contact is made through a stainless contact plate on one 
dropout. The plate is electrically isolated from the fork via a nylon 
bushing, and a wire runs inside the fork blade.  The ground happens on the 
other dropout.  So the fork itself serves as ground.

For sidepull brakes, I think the mounting bracket that Busch  Muller sell 
for their Cyo headlight will be compatible with the brake bolt and possibly 
the mounting tab on the Edelux, but I'm not 100% certain.

As for different dynamo hubs, I have both Shimano and Schmidt hubs.  Both 
produce comparable output, but I feel vibration in the handlebars with the 
Shimano hub and the lights on.  I don't feel it with the Schmidt hub.

Anton You're grounded! Tutter


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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Interesting.  Definitely a unique color scheme and wheel choice.  Right up 
the road from the site of the recent Entmoot  Would have been 
interesting to see this in person.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
I do find myself looking at all that unused tire clearance and just shaking 
my head.  

But, it does look like a great frame wearing a lot of cast off mtb parts. 
(and showing a ton of seatpost...)

- J

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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread cyclotourist
At that price, you could buy it, re-place the canti posts for 650B, and
have it re-painted for less than a new one! I like the stem, too.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:41 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 I do find myself looking at all that unused tire clearance and just
 shaking my head.

 But, it does look like a great frame wearing a lot of cast off mtb parts.
 (and showing a ton of seatpost...)

 - J

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[RBW] Re: Entmoot Motivated Change

2014-07-21 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Another +1 on the Kermit chair - it was brought by Ryan (? The teacher from 
Michigan). 

Anne's tent was pretty slick - bug protective but very simple.  

And, as Philip said, fixed does make you a bit anti-social on climbs, but 
works fine overall.  

I've kind of been basket-averse, but was reasonably jealous of the ease of 
gear assembly and adaptability which it offers. 

Or, I could seek to attain the packing brilliance of Lee...

- Jim / cyclofiend.com


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Re: [RBW] Link To My Entmoot Pictures

2014-07-21 Thread Cyclofiend Jim



 It's surprising what you can do when you don't know you can't.  

 dougP


^^ 
DEFINITELY the next RBW T-shirt slogan!

- Jim / cyclofiend 

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Re: [RBW] QR question

2014-07-21 Thread Ryan
Yeah, it's a drag to get something with missing parts but  Grant has 
graciously   posted his willingness to make it right. So hopefully it's all 
good. Hope work settles down.

On Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:16:25 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:

 Thanks for the kind words, I try to keep my cool at all times but was so 
 bummed to miss a beautiful weekend riding since its just been super hectic 
 at work lately and being out in the woods here the lack of a good LBS 
 sucks. My new local is closed at 2 on Saturday all day sunday Monday and 
 Tuesday, its a great little operation but finding the time in my schedule 
 to get out there is impossible. Thanks for the reply Grant, sorry if I was 
 inelegant, its unfortunately my nature, no amount of smacks to the back of 
 the head from my mom will change me it seems. I did tear apart the spare 
 parts bin looking for a skewer tonight and all I came up with was a couple 
 of janky looking steel front skewers and I need a rear 135mm.  I have some 
 time tomorrow and will call up RBW and work it out. (I never know whether 
 to directly respond to you-grant and RBW employees on the list or not so 
 will just call).  If they could send along a Hermes handbag as well that 
 would make my wife happy too, hahaha. 


 On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 10:48 PM, Christopher Murray chrispm...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 As someone who lives in a fairly remote place and thus has to order most 
 things, I can certainly relate to the frustration when something arrives 
 broken, wrong, missing parts, etc. It is almost never a case of running out 
 to a local store to make it right. It involves phone calls and return 
 shipping and (WORST OF ALL) more waiting. Obviously the OP is in a 
 situation where he can't just run out to get a QR so that magnifies the 
 frustration of things not showing up as expected. Yes, I think the 
 frustration was expressed a little more crudely than necessary, but I also 
 think we should cut the guy some slack. He paid for something and waited 
 and when it showed up it was not what he expected. These things do happen 
 of course and you just need to deal with them without losing your cool. He 
 wanted to ride and couldn't and it doesn't sound like he has a ton of free 
 time to just ride whenever.

 Peter, I am sorry your wheel didn't arrive as expected. That sucks and 
 must be super disappointing. Call Riv and see what they say. In my 
 experience they will take care if it and be more sorry about it than you. 
 They are great people and will make it right. Hang in there it will get 
 resolved.

 Cheers,
 Chris

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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

2014-07-21 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs.  My 
understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of 
course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).


Anton You're grounded! Tutter




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[RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread Conway Bennett
Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad school 
graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish cross check 
so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered to buy her a LBS 
bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't available for test 
rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS '12 salsa caseroll.  Low 
and behold I found a practically new caseroll locally for $700 so I jumped on 
it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves it.  It's stock now but I'm 
interested in her having a more rivish build which is self serving because now 
I get to tinker.  I want to buy used first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  
What I'm ISO are:

VP pedals
44 noodles
TRP levers
Bar end shifters
IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
Soma c line tires
Nitto post
Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
Wald medium basket

Thanks in advance!

FW,

CCB

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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

2014-07-21 Thread Anton Tutter
The Schmidt SL hub, aka 'connectorless', breaks that rule and grounds 
through the opposite dropout to the one supplying power. That's how it 
allows the connectorless system to work.  Shimano hubs are grounded at both 
dropouts.

Anton



On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:07:52 PM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:

 Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs.  My 
 understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of 
 course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).


 Anton You're grounded! Tutter




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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread Anne Paulson
I urge you to have your partner test a Brooks saddle before you pick one
for her. There is a good reason why many women like seats with cutouts. If
one's saddle issue is with the rear of the saddle, a Brooks can be a good
choice. If one's saddle issue is with the front of the saddle, a Brooks,
being flat, may well make it worse.

Some women love Brooks saddles. I wouldn't want to ride a quarter of a mile
on one.


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 9:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad
 school graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish
 cross check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered
 to buy her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't
 available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS
 '12 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new caseroll
 locally for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves
 it.  It's stock now but I'm interested in her having a more rivish build
 which is self serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to buy used
 first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:

 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket

 Thanks in advance!

 FW,

 CCB

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-- 
-- Anne Paulson

It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread Jim Bronson
I think I have some 44 noodles but I'll need to measure when I get home
tonight.


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad
 school graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish
 cross check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered
 to buy her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't
 available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS
 '12 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new caseroll
 locally for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves
 it.  It's stock now but I'm interested in her having a more rivish build
 which is self serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to buy used
 first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:

 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket

 Thanks in advance!

 FW,

 CCB

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

2014-07-21 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
Interesting.  I assumed that they had plates for BOTH dropouts, since 
they've made a big deal in the past about not grounding to the frame, but 
it makes sense (in the pursuit of simplicity) to only require the one.  
Thanks for the (ahem) illumination!


On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:38:49 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:

 The Schmidt SL hub, aka 'connectorless', breaks that rule and grounds 
 through the opposite dropout to the one supplying power. That's how it 
 allows the connectorless system to work.  Shimano hubs are grounded at both 
 dropouts.

 Anton



 On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:07:52 PM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:

 Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs.  My 
 understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of 
 course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).


 Anton You're grounded! Tutter




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[RBW] Re: I love 11-34!

2014-07-21 Thread John Stowe
Glad indeed. My 11-32 keeps me in the big chainring (48) of my Sugino 
triple nearly all the time when it's just me and a laptop on my Sam - but 
it's a different story with my son and/or shopping on board. Finally busted 
out the lowest lowest gear a coupla weekends ago: 26x32 to get the kid up a 
hill. Later investigation with a map revealed that it was the 15% grade in 
the middle that finally killed our momentum. Ouch! 

Going down was fun, though: my son only knows a few words, but bike and 
whee were among the first, and still very popular!


On Monday, July 21, 2014 11:03:39 AM UTC-4, Marc Irwin wrote:

 I built my Hillborne with a 36x12 and 46x30 up front.  You don't use the 
 30t chainring often, but boy am I glad to have it.

 Marc

 On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:04:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Installed a HG50 9 speed 11-34 last week on my Riv along with a new Deore 
 M-591 SGS rear derailer and a new KMC chain.  I have been extremely pleased 
 with this setup so far.  I'm just wondering why I waited so long to make 
 the change.

 One thing I didn't expect is that it allows me to ride in the big ring a 
 lot more because the number of teeth jump up much faster than on a cassette 
 with closer spaced gears, it seems.  I don't mind the gears spacing further 
 apart either, I have usually tended to make 2 and 3 gear shifts at a time 
 anyway.  With this cassette, I don't have to.

 I have not had to use the granny once since getting this setup.  I'm 
 almost 1:1 in the middle ring now at 36-34.  Good stuff.

 Although now I am thinking I might like to try this bike setup as a 
 wide-low double.  Decisions, decisions.  ;)

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 



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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread captainconwaybennett
Thanks Jim!  And to Anne,  she has been riding my contoured-to my butt -sprung 
b-17 with no complaints so I'm thinking something slightly used that will form 
a symbiotic relationship with her should do fine.  Thanks for the quick 
response and female perspective!

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:40 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I think I have some 44 noodles but I'll need to measure when I get home 
 tonight.
 
 
 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad school 
 graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish cross 
 check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered to buy 
 her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't 
 available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS '12 
 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new caseroll locally 
 for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves it.  It's 
 stock now but I'm interested in her having a more rivish build which is self 
 serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to buy used first then I'll 
 fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:
 
 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket
 
 Thanks in advance!
 
 FW,
 
 CCB
 
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[RBW] Re: racks for sale

2014-07-21 Thread Rusty Click
Nitto rack spoken for, pending paypal.

Tubus still available.

Thanks to all who've looked.

Rusty

On Sunday, July 20, 2014 7:24:32 PM UTC-4, Rusty Click wrote:

 Spring touring is done, and I'm going back to a Nelson LF and a basket up 
 front to carry my gear.  Subsequently, this leaves me with two racks for 
 sale.  If prices seem 'out-a-whack', please let me know.  If you want to 
 pay more, please let me know.  (grin)

 I have a Nitto Big Back rack(v1), size large at $120 shipped to lower 48,

 and a 

 Tubus Tara low-rider ( one season used) at $65 shipped 

 Maybe both at $170???


 If anyone has interest, please contact offline.

 Rusty
 Pittsburgh


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[RBW] Re: Edeluxe on sidepull bike mounting?

2014-07-21 Thread Anton Tutter
Glad I could 'enlighten' you!



On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:42:00 PM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:

 Interesting.  I assumed that they had plates for BOTH dropouts, since 
 they've made a big deal in the past about not grounding to the frame, but 
 it makes sense (in the pursuit of simplicity) to only require the one.  
 Thanks for the (ahem) illumination!


 On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:38:49 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:

 The Schmidt SL hub, aka 'connectorless', breaks that rule and grounds 
 through the opposite dropout to the one supplying power. That's how it 
 allows the connectorless system to work.  Shimano hubs are grounded at both 
 dropouts.

 Anton



 On Monday, July 21, 2014 12:07:52 PM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:

 Actually, you're only grounded with Shimano (and similar) hubs.  My 
 understanding is that the SON hubs don't ground through the axle (though of 
 course, you're free to ground yourself) :-).


 Anton You're grounded! Tutter




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[RBW] Re: Entmoot Motivated Change

2014-07-21 Thread Pondero
Thanks, everyone.  When I posed my question, I definitely didn't expect so 
much chair input.  I commonly bring a small piece of cloth that I roll up 
and strap to my saddlebag, affectionately referred to as my lollygagging 
mat.  It provides just a little cushion and a clean spot to enjoy my 
frequent coffee outside outings.  If I could get a chair to roll up to 
the same size and no heavier, maybe I upgrade.  The hammock has been my 
S24O game changer, and I saw several in the photos. 

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[RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

2014-07-21 Thread Michael Hechmer
If the issue is power, instead of centering, rubbing, noise or stability, I 
would expect one of two causes.  First, it may be a mismatch with the 
levers.  I found that the Shimano SIS levers did not work well with any 
cantis.  They just pull too much cable to get a good grip.  Second, and 
here I'm guessing a bit because I have no experience with the touring 
cantis, only the noes, my intuition tells me I will get the most power when 
the cable is 90 degrees from the arms.  On my neo retros that means I have 
a very hi and long straddle cable. The touring cantis, at 45 degrees would 
be much lower.  The Paul site says this:

We recommend running the Touring Canti with a lower straddle wire to 
maximize stopping power. Having the cable carrier between 1 inches and 2 
above the tire is a good range.

I suppose it could also be the pads or too little toe in that is 
compromising the power.  

I find setting up cantis is best with a lever that has a quick release, so 
they can be set pretty close to the rim and still allow easy wire removal. 
 The Cane Creek and Tektro levers work great with these brakes.  I also 
like to have an adjustable barrel on the cable and a good quality hanger, 
Paul's are nice to work with.  To adjust them I simply unhook the straddle 
cable, put an allen wrench on the outside and move the 15mm adjusting bolt 
to the desired tension in the return spring.  BTW, be careful when 
installing the springs,  They go in one direction for cantis and the other 
for Cps.  It's easy to get confused.

Hope this helps.

Michael



On Monday, July 21, 2014 8:52:48 AM UTC-4, Christian wrote:

 Hi All,

 Many folks here note that they needed to do some fiddling with their 
 Paul's to get them set up right.  I'm curious what tricks people have used 
 to get the best performance out of their Paul cantis?  I have touring 
 cantis and they're fine.  Beautiful, of course, but performance wise 
 they're not world changing.  I gotta say, however, that the super cheap 
 Deore V brakes on my LHT--pulled by mtn levers on albatross bars--work 
 every bit as good if not better.   

 Anyway, set up tips, tricks, etc would be good to know about.  

 Thanks,

 Christian 


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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread cyclotourist
So what were those toes that were stepped on?

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 9:53 AM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Jim!  And to Anne,  she has been riding my contoured-to my butt
 -sprung b-17 with no complaints so I'm thinking something slightly used
 that will form a symbiotic relationship with her should do fine.  Thanks
 for the quick response and female perspective!

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway Bennett

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:40 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think I have some 44 noodles but I'll need to measure when I get home
 tonight.


 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad
 school graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish
 cross check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered
 to buy her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't
 available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS
 '12 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new caseroll
 locally for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves
 it.  It's stock now but I'm interested in her having a more rivish build
 which is self serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to buy used
 first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:

 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket

 Thanks in advance!

 FW,

 CCB

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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread captainconwaybennett
The parentals.  IMO they saved $12 hundo.  Maybe I can get them to pay for our 
hotel in vacay this fall.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 12:59 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 So what were those toes that were stepped on?
 
 Cheers,
 David
 
 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
 
 
 
 
 
 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 9:53 AM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks Jim!  And to Anne,  she has been riding my contoured-to my butt 
 -sprung b-17 with no complaints so I'm thinking something slightly used that 
 will form a symbiotic relationship with her should do fine.  Thanks for the 
 quick response and female perspective!
 
 Fair winds,
 
 Captain Conway Bennett
 
 On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:40 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I think I have some 44 noodles but I'll need to measure when I get home 
 tonight.
 
 
 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad 
 school graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish 
 cross check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered 
 to buy her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her 
 wasn't available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos 
 or NOS '12 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new 
 caseroll locally for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but 
 she loves it.  It's stock now but I'm interested in her having a more 
 rivish build which is self serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to 
 buy used first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:
 
 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket
 
 Thanks in advance!
 
 FW,
 
 CCB
 
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Re: [RBW] ISO Salsa Caseroll recipes

2014-07-21 Thread cyclotourist
Fun times!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:01 AM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 The parentals.  IMO they saved $12 hundo.  Maybe I can get them to pay for
 our hotel in vacay this fall.


 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway Bennett

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 12:59 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

 So what were those toes that were stepped on?

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 9:53 AM, captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Jim!  And to Anne,  she has been riding my contoured-to my butt
 -sprung b-17 with no complaints so I'm thinking something slightly used
 that will form a symbiotic relationship with her should do fine.  Thanks
 for the quick response and female perspective!

 Fair winds,

 Captain Conway Bennett

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:40 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think I have some 44 noodles but I'll need to measure when I get home
 tonight.


 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Conway Bennett 
 captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Awhile back I solicited input for a rivish bike for my partner's grad
 school graduation/birthday bike.  She had more less taken over my hunqish
 cross check so I ended up buying us a vacation.  THEN her parents offered
 to buy her a LBS bike.  All of the stuff I was interested in for her wasn't
 available for test rides-soma saga, handsome xoxo, Riv San Marcos or NOS
 '12 salsa caseroll.  Low and behold I found a practically new caseroll
 locally for $700 so I jumped on it.  I stepped on some toes but she loves
 it.  It's stock now but I'm interested in her having a more rivish build
 which is self serving because now I get to tinker.  I want to buy used
 first then I'll fill in gaps at rivbike.  What I'm ISO are:

 VP pedals
 44 noodles
 TRP levers
 Bar end shifters
 IRD threadless 1 1/8 x 45 degree x 80 mm
 Soma c line tires
 Nitto post
 Lightly used brooks b-17 or similar
 Wald medium basket

 Thanks in advance!

 FW,

 CCB

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne Rohloff Conversion

2014-07-21 Thread BSWP
Say, after 10 months, how's the Rohloff/SO combo working out? I'm thinking 
about my next frame, and how to gear it...

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Thursday, September 5, 2013 2:39:41 PM UTC-7, oceano...@gmail.com wrote:

 For a little more context, I live at the top of 84 in Woodside and I 
 commute to work everyday (was Palo Alto, now Redwood City). This SimpleOne 
 was my first Rivendell, but when I moved to Woodside I largely stopped 
 riding it and purchased an Atlantis. A single speed in the mountains isn't 
 exactly the greatest commuting option. I biked up Old La Honda once, it 
 wasn't terribly fun. Back in early August I messed up the fork of my 
 Atlantis so I needed a way to continue commuting. Given that I live in a 
 tiny place, buying a third bike wasn't really enticing. This SimpleOne has 
 lots of sentimental value at this point so selling it never really crossed 
 my mind. I had been intrigued with a Rohloff conversion for quite some time 
 though, and this was the perfect opportunity to try it. The past few weeks 
 have been really great, plus I noticed my commute times have improved by 
 2-3 minutes. For what it's worth, my SimpleOne has a wider gearing range 
 than my Atlantis. Crazy. Anyway, I won't be going back to a single speed 
 anytime soon, that's for sure. 

 - Geoff

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 8:23:14 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 the cold-set itself is only 1/3-inch on each side - the trick to it is 
 keeping the alignment.  Great-looking bikes and I'm jealous - thanks for 
 showing them.  

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 9:56:43 AM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 First, congratulations; that's an ambitious mod.  The basic concept is 
 cool (i.e. being able to switch between single-speed and internal-geared), 
 except cold-setting a 120mm spaced-frame to 135mm to me is pretty extreme. 
 A big part of the appeal of the S1/QB is that it IS a single speed and it 
 has 120mm rear spacing.  If you want gears (let alone a 14-speed Rohloff), 
 why are you starting with a 120mm SS frame and (forever) altering its 
 genetic structure? And how can you ever go back to SS (in good conscience) 
 as a 135mm-spaced SS???  Besides, there are other gearing options without 
 having to cold set.  For example, you can get creative with a dual-speed 
 freewheel and double crankset to at least stretch your SS into a 4-speed. 
  Or you can choose a 126mm internal-geared hub (like a SRAM/Spectro P5 or 
 S7; granted not a Rohloff, but a nice durable hub).  I use a Patterson 
 2-speed crankset which extends my S1 to climb moderate hills. Add an S7 
 hub, and you've got formidable gear range.

 OK, blah blah blah... fact remains you've already created a Simple-14.. 
 at the very least that's audacious, diabolical and totally Frankenbikish, 
 worthy of props... so I'll give that a big Dr Evil MBWAAAHH!!!

 Peace,
 BB



 On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 5:55:53 PM UTC-4, Daniel Molloy wrote:

 Hi group,

 I thought I would share this Rohloff conversion we just finished at 
 Cycle Monkey. As a former Rivendell employee and current Rohloff user I'm 
 a 
 little biased, but I think it turned out great. We cold-set the rear 
 triangle without any problems. Alex Wetmore converted his Quickbeam to a 
 Rohloff a while back, but there doesn't seem to be much info online about 
 it anymore. Fair Disclosure: I currently work at Cycle Monkey, and am only 
 posting here since I believe it counts as relevant and interesting Riv 
 Content.


 http://cyclemonkeylab.blogspot.com/2013/09/rivendell-simpleone-rohloff-speedhub.html

 Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: SimpleOne Rohloff Conversion

2014-07-21 Thread Jim Bronson
It looked like it was working great when he visited Austin a couple of
months ago and rode a 100K RUSA permanent populaire with about 5 other guys
including myself. Him and another Rivendell rider on a geared custom rode
off the front on the way back from the turnaround.  Although they ended up
behind us slowpokes when they took a wrong turn.  ;)

I took a couple of (bad) pictures of it but it looked like the Rohloff was
meant to be there.


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:12 PM, BSWP ashtab...@gmail.com wrote:

 Say, after 10 months, how's the Rohloff/SO combo working out? I'm thinking
 about my next frame, and how to gear it...

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 2:39:41 PM UTC-7, oceano...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 For a little more context, I live at the top of 84 in Woodside and I
 commute to work everyday (was Palo Alto, now Redwood City). This SimpleOne
 was my first Rivendell, but when I moved to Woodside I largely stopped
 riding it and purchased an Atlantis. A single speed in the mountains isn't
 exactly the greatest commuting option. I biked up Old La Honda once, it
 wasn't terribly fun. Back in early August I messed up the fork of my
 Atlantis so I needed a way to continue commuting. Given that I live in a
 tiny place, buying a third bike wasn't really enticing. This SimpleOne has
 lots of sentimental value at this point so selling it never really crossed
 my mind. I had been intrigued with a Rohloff conversion for quite some time
 though, and this was the perfect opportunity to try it. The past few weeks
 have been really great, plus I noticed my commute times have improved by
 2-3 minutes. For what it's worth, my SimpleOne has a wider gearing range
 than my Atlantis. Crazy. Anyway, I won't be going back to a single speed
 anytime soon, that's for sure.

 - Geoff

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 8:23:14 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 the cold-set itself is only 1/3-inch on each side - the trick to it is
 keeping the alignment.  Great-looking bikes and I'm jealous - thanks for
 showing them.

 On Thursday, September 5, 2013 9:56:43 AM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 First, congratulations; that's an ambitious mod.  The basic concept is
 cool (i.e. being able to switch between single-speed and internal-geared),
 except cold-setting a 120mm spaced-frame to 135mm to me is pretty extreme.
 A big part of the appeal of the S1/QB is that it IS a single speed and it
 has 120mm rear spacing.  If you want gears (let alone a 14-speed Rohloff),
 why are you starting with a 120mm SS frame and (forever) altering its
 genetic structure? And how can you ever go back to SS (in good conscience)
 as a 135mm-spaced SS???  Besides, there are other gearing options without
 having to cold set.  For example, you can get creative with a dual-speed
 freewheel and double crankset to at least stretch your SS into a 4-speed.
  Or you can choose a 126mm internal-geared hub (like a SRAM/Spectro P5 or
 S7; granted not a Rohloff, but a nice durable hub).  I use a Patterson
 2-speed crankset which extends my S1 to climb moderate hills. Add an S7
 hub, and you've got formidable gear range.

 OK, blah blah blah... fact remains you've already created a Simple-14..
 at the very least that's audacious, diabolical and totally Frankenbikish,
 worthy of props... so I'll give that a big Dr Evil MBWAAAHH!!!

 Peace,
 BB



 On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 5:55:53 PM UTC-4, Daniel Molloy wrote:

 Hi group,

 I thought I would share this Rohloff conversion we just finished at
 Cycle Monkey. As a former Rivendell employee and current Rohloff user I'm 
 a
 little biased, but I think it turned out great. We cold-set the rear
 triangle without any problems. Alex Wetmore converted his Quickbeam to a
 Rohloff a while back, but there doesn't seem to be much info online about
 it anymore. Fair Disclosure: I currently work at Cycle Monkey, and am only
 posting here since I believe it counts as relevant and interesting Riv
 Content.

 http://cyclemonkeylab.blogspot.com/2013/09/
 rivendell-simpleone-rohloff-speedhub.html

 Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Entmoot Motivated Change

2014-07-21 Thread Roger


On Monday, July 21, 2014 10:35:10 AM UTC-7, Pondero wrote:

 Thanks, everyone.  When I posed my question, I definitely didn't expect so 
 much chair input.  I commonly bring a small piece of cloth that I roll up 
 and strap to my saddlebag, affectionately referred to as my lollygagging 
 mat.  It provides just a little cushion and a clean spot to enjoy my 
 frequent coffee outside outings.  If I could get a chair to roll up to 
 the same size and no heavier, maybe I upgrade.  The hammock has been my 
 S24O game changer, and I saw several in the photos. 


The thing about a bunch of people gathering is that, sure, there may be one 
or two nice spots on a log or rock. But once 2 or 3 people have the 
comfortable, naturally occuring, spots in use if you want to join them you 
either stand until you get tired of standing there, or sit somewhere 
uncomfortable. A hammock seems to be just as troublesome for 5 or 10 people 
to all find a comfortable nearby spot.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Entmoot Motivated Change

2014-07-21 Thread Chris Chen
Depends on where you live, I guess.

In the northwest the calculus is inverted, especially stealth camping. Lots
of places to hang but few flat spots to be had.

I've seen folks bring along a section of busted old sleeping pad as a
sitting pad, which seems to work great.


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 1:13 PM, Roger rogerdhod...@gmail.com wrote:



 On Monday, July 21, 2014 10:35:10 AM UTC-7, Pondero wrote:

 Thanks, everyone.  When I posed my question, I definitely didn't expect
 so much chair input.  I commonly bring a small piece of cloth that I roll
 up and strap to my saddlebag, affectionately referred to as my
 lollygagging mat.  It provides just a little cushion and a clean spot to
 enjoy my frequent coffee outside outings.  If I could get a chair to roll
 up to the same size and no heavier, maybe I upgrade.  The hammock has been
 my S24O game changer, and I saw several in the photos.


 The thing about a bunch of people gathering is that, sure, there may be
 one or two nice spots on a log or rock. But once 2 or 3 people have the
 comfortable, naturally occuring, spots in use if you want to join them you
 either stand until you get tired of standing there, or sit somewhere
 uncomfortable. A hammock seems to be just as troublesome for 5 or 10 people
 to all find a comfortable nearby spot.

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-- 
I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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[RBW] Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread John Stowe
Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water and 
then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and showed me 
that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint between the 
lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or took to 
develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park it, and 
opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I looked at 
much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it cleaned up, 
I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the right is 
bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if it was a 
paint chip or metal).

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to me 
(I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so saving 
a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I figured 
I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
my bikes:

http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
of course!):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
derailleur that Riv sells, but I just couldn't get it to move in far 
enough, and anyway, when I mounted it as low/close as Shimano recommends, 
shifting to the big/big combination (48/32) would make the chain rub on the 
lever arm where the cable attaches - this must not be an issue on bikes 
with steeper seat tubes, because otherwise it seems like a silly fault to 
make it through the design process. I couldn't say for certain since I had 
already removed everything from the other frame and hardly ever need the 
small chainring anyway, but I vaguely recalled having the same trouble on 
the 

Re: [RBW] Re: Entmoot Motivated Change

2014-07-21 Thread Bill Gibson
For years, my therma-rester, a simple fabric and (carbon fiber?) plastic stick 
contraption which slips over my sleeping pad, inflatable or not, to make a 
comfy back support sitting or laying down. Good for campfire, tenting, or 
stargazing. Called a trekker chair kit now at REI.

Sent from my iPad

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 8:50 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Another +1 on the Kermit chair - it was brought by Ryan (? The teacher from 
 Michigan). 
 
 Anne's tent was pretty slick - bug protective but very simple.  
 
 And, as Philip said, fixed does make you a bit anti-social on climbs, but 
 works fine overall.  
 
 I've kind of been basket-averse, but was reasonably jealous of the ease of 
 gear assembly and adaptability which it offers. 
 
 Or, I could seek to attain the packing brilliance of Lee...
 
 - Jim / cyclofiend.com
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread IanA
If it fits a wide 26 tire (2 plus)) it would be a perfect adventure 
tourer/rough stuff bike.  My size, more-or-less, but it sold already! 

IanA.

On Monday, July 21, 2014 9:49:46 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 At that price, you could buy it, re-place the canti posts for 650B, and 
 have it re-painted for less than a new one! I like the stem, too.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:41 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclo...@earthlink.net 
 javascript: wrote:

 I do find myself looking at all that unused tire clearance and just 
 shaking my head.  

 But, it does look like a great frame wearing a lot of cast off mtb parts. 
 (and showing a ton of seatpost...)

 - J

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Re: [RBW] Red Bombadil!

2014-07-21 Thread cyclotourist
Yeah, just noticed it sold. Anyone here???

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 1:32 PM, IanA attew...@gmail.com wrote:

 If it fits a wide 26 tire (2 plus)) it would be a perfect adventure
 tourer/rough stuff bike.  My size, more-or-less, but it sold already!

 IanA.


 On Monday, July 21, 2014 9:49:46 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 At that price, you could buy it, re-place the canti posts for 650B, and
 have it re-painted for less than a new one! I like the stem, too.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:41 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclo...@earthlink.net
 wrote:

 I do find myself looking at all that unused tire clearance and just
 shaking my head.

 But, it does look like a great frame wearing a lot of cast off mtb
 parts. (and showing a ton of seatpost...)

 - J

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[RBW] Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread Bill Lindsay
it definitely counts as new bike day!  its great that riv took good care of you

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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread dougP
John:

That's a wonderful story, with a happy ending.  It's always encouraging to 
hear about people going beyond their recognized obligations, and I think 
there are plenty of list members who've had experiences with Rivendell 
taking good care of them.  

You co-pilot looks like one happy camper!  Your packing  boxing of the old 
frame before even starting on the new one says a lot about you.  Then you 
cleaned up the junk before test riding!  I'm usually out the door on 
half-inflated tires with tools scattered all over when doing a test ride.  
To your question, my vote is yes, you do get a new bike day.  Enjoy the 
brief time with your co-pilot.  All too soon the little ones insist on 
turning their own pedals.  

dougP

On Monday, July 21, 2014 1:24:43 PM UTC-7, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
 new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
 for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
 is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
 and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
 back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
 longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
 the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
 things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
 ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
 my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
 fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
 giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
 of course!):


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
 Two thoughts on shifting 

[RBW] Not my day

2014-07-21 Thread Michael Hechmer
I suppose we have all had rides like this, and after two wonderful rides in 
the Adirondacks over the weekend, maybe I was due.  

This morning I headed out on the Saluki  (Riv content) for a 25 mile loop 
that included a stop to visit a friend recovering from colin cancer and 
another at a farm stand for fresh corn for dinner.  As soon as I started I 
realized the minimalist sneakers I was wearing and the White Ind Pedals 
with Bruce Gordon clips was a bad combination.  My foot was sliding all 
over the pedal and by the time these low profile shoes made contact with 
the clips I was pushing with the back half of my arch.  I've never really 
entirely warmed to the no clip option but ride them to give my foot some 
variety after surgery a couple of years ago.  I decided to soldier on.

As I headed down a steep slope on the aptly named Rollin Irish Rd. I 
tried to lift the chain onto the big ring.  It wouldn't go and my foot 
couldn't stay with the spin going downhill.  At the next top and first sign 
of shade, I stopped and adjusted the set screw on the FD.  I had lots and 
lots of rolling terrain to go through and really wanted that ring to push 
on.  However, I soon realized that I was now having trouble trimming the 
FD.  No matter what I did it seemed to rub somewhere and the rattle which 
had developed between the steel bottle and cage  made it harder to figure 
out.  Onward I struggle down a beautiful dirt road.

On the return trip the trim problem only seemed to get worse and my rhythm 
was completely off.  On an up shift the chain now jumped across the 48 and 
wrapped around the crank arm.  Looking straight down I suddenly realized 
that the FD had gotten knocked out of parallel.  But as I sat back down I 
had the sensation that my saddle was loose and moving up  down.  I stood 
up and gave it a push.  Just a bit of movement.  Now five miles from home I 
had feet sliding around, a FD that wouldn't trim, a water bottle rattling, 
and a saddle bobbing.  At about three miles I hit a mile of 8-9% grade that 
I usually climb in a 34/27 but  with my saddle now quite loose and given 
how out of sync I was I tried to downshift to the little ring.  The FD went 
across and into the fender while the chain ground against the 
parallelogram.  Time to walk. At least at the top of that hill I had two 
miles of dirt road to coast down.

Tomorrow is another day.  Everything is fixable.

Michael
Westford, VT

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Re: [RBW] Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Joe Bunik
You're not grip-sniffing alone on this one, Sam - I was just
ruminating on the very same topic this a.m. as I rode the train and
stared vacantly at the headset of my Legolas!

First, the RBW / Crane headset/spacer mount bell is a great item. It's
not just another spacer with a thread added, but is machined (CNC'd?)
from a larger solid piece. Meaning the base for the bell is better
positioned and much less likely to strip out (as I've experienced w/
other's products).

The Crane however is designed to work with either 1 (using an
included shim) or 9/8 headsets. Standard Riv usage is as a 1
threaded steerer spacer, which presumes you have a tall-enough steerer
(as all good Rivs should!). The Legolas is one of the exceptions
available as 1 threadless, but it's the same situation- the oversize
bell mount requires a shim.

It looks a little wonky though, to stack 1 spacers above/below this
larger alloy chunk (lovely chunk it is). My eye-easing remedy had been
(reading from top-to-bottom), 1) 9/8 threadless cap, 2) a single thin
1 spacer, 3) Nitto TFL stem (9/8, and is on a reducer shim), 4)
Crane bell mount (also on a shim, and its oversize-ness matches the
9/8 Nitto stem nicely), 5) 1 headset hanger (for cantilevers), 6)
triple-1 spacers a la the Rivendell shot-glass, 7) 1 threadless
headset top race.

Problem is I've recently switched to a different hanger for my canti
setup, rendering unnecessary the headset-hanger separator parked
between the fat Crane and thinner shot-glass. I may try to find some
thin 9/8 spacers and do a similar shotglass-over-a-shim, but I'll bet
that will look wonky with the 1 top race. :-/

The Ideal Solution (maybe GP can turn some screws on Crane!?) would be
for a similar style mount, but exclusively for 1!

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA


On 7/19/14, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Looks like the outer spacer mount diameter bulges out wider than the
 regular spacer diameters on 1 steerers, like the pic on the rivsite (
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bellhed.htm)

 So I was wondering, does it stick out on yours, or is it just that way in
 that pic they have on the site?

 One of my favorite features of Riv bikes are the shot-glasses - the
 pretty stack of headset spacers. I don't want to ruin the line.

 Maybe I am just cork grip sniffing about this, but it's one of the things I

 find beautiful on these bikes.

 So just want to know how it really is so I can stop mulling and either get
 one, or wait until they start selling one with a uniform outer diameter for

 1 spacers.

 Didn't they have one with an aluminum (silver colored) bell on it once?
 That would be a nice match for all the silver color on these bikes.


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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Definitely new bike day! The folks at Rivendell are amazing and really do 
what it takes to astound with great customer service. They recognize a 
potential problem in the frame and want to know what caused it so they can 
fix it. That's integrity.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Not my day

2014-07-21 Thread Liesl
Way to soldier on! This is a story that will get better with each telling. -rcw

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Re: [RBW] Son of More Entmoot

2014-07-21 Thread Joe Bunik
Brian - it was so wonderful to meet, re-meet, and re-connect with you
and so many other famous names and faces last week! I had to scram out
of town for my sister's wedding and so it all began to seem a bit like
a dream...

So, thanks for humoring my strong-arming you into the harlequin wrap
demo. I got back from family festivities late last night to not only
find my favorite pedals (Thin Gripster) missing (and on my wife's
Cheviot which I'd swiped for the weekend), but my commuter RockCombo
was bowdlerized and bar-less - a-ha, there's a half-wrapped bar if I
ever saw one - so, it must all have really happened after all!!! I
promise I'll git 'er finished, learning your technique/tips really
helped.

So many great people, bikes and stories. It was a perfect storm, with
options and activities galore, just fill your plate and come back for
more! Let's do it again next year?

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 7/20/14, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
 It took me a while to process the trip, and how much fun it was.  Super
 relaxing time away with like-minded amazing folks!  This group is really a
 great find!  Special call-outs to the Portland and So-cal crew who shared
 the ride with me down to the Bay Area!  It made the 20-hrs of driving
 really fly by.  I hope Ryan had a good ride back to Michigan, as well!

 Photos are here:  https://flic.kr/s/aHsjZDgzVm

 And writeup: http://stonehog.com/2014/07/20/entmoot/

 Brian Hanson
 Seattle, WA

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[RBW] Re: Not my day

2014-07-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Way to persevere! All days are good, some are also hard. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, July 21, 2014 3:37:54 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I suppose we have all had rides like this, and after two wonderful rides 
 in the Adirondacks over the weekend, maybe I was due.  

 This morning I headed out on the Saluki  (Riv content) for a 25 mile loop 
 that included a stop to visit a friend recovering from colin cancer and 
 another at a farm stand for fresh corn for dinner.  As soon as I started I 
 realized the minimalist sneakers I was wearing and the White Ind Pedals 
 with Bruce Gordon clips was a bad combination.  My foot was sliding all 
 over the pedal and by the time these low profile shoes made contact with 
 the clips I was pushing with the back half of my arch.  I've never really 
 entirely warmed to the no clip option but ride them to give my foot some 
 variety after surgery a couple of years ago.  I decided to soldier on.

 As I headed down a steep slope on the aptly named Rollin Irish Rd. I 
 tried to lift the chain onto the big ring.  It wouldn't go and my foot 
 couldn't stay with the spin going downhill.  At the next top and first sign 
 of shade, I stopped and adjusted the set screw on the FD.  I had lots and 
 lots of rolling terrain to go through and really wanted that ring to push 
 on.  However, I soon realized that I was now having trouble trimming the 
 FD.  No matter what I did it seemed to rub somewhere and the rattle which 
 had developed between the steel bottle and cage  made it harder to figure 
 out.  Onward I struggle down a beautiful dirt road.

 On the return trip the trim problem only seemed to get worse and my rhythm 
 was completely off.  On an up shift the chain now jumped across the 48 and 
 wrapped around the crank arm.  Looking straight down I suddenly realized 
 that the FD had gotten knocked out of parallel.  But as I sat back down I 
 had the sensation that my saddle was loose and moving up  down.  I stood 
 up and gave it a push.  Just a bit of movement.  Now five miles from home I 
 had feet sliding around, a FD that wouldn't trim, a water bottle rattling, 
 and a saddle bobbing.  At about three miles I hit a mile of 8-9% grade that 
 I usually climb in a 34/27 but  with my saddle now quite loose and given 
 how out of sync I was I tried to downshift to the little ring.  The FD went 
 across and into the fender while the chain ground against the 
 parallelogram.  Time to walk. At least at the top of that hill I had two 
 miles of dirt road to coast down.

 Tomorrow is another day.  Everything is fixable.

 Michael
 Westford, VT


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[RBW] Re: Not my day

2014-07-21 Thread dougP
Time for a cold one.  After a day like that, I want a shower  a nap, then 
think about working on the bike. At least the problem(s) are diagnosed 
(sometimes half the battle).  Good luck with the repairs.

dougP

On Monday, July 21, 2014 2:37:54 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I suppose we have all had rides like this, and after two wonderful rides 
 in the Adirondacks over the weekend, maybe I was due.  

 This morning I headed out on the Saluki  (Riv content) for a 25 mile loop 
 that included a stop to visit a friend recovering from colin cancer and 
 another at a farm stand for fresh corn for dinner.  As soon as I started I 
 realized the minimalist sneakers I was wearing and the White Ind Pedals 
 with Bruce Gordon clips was a bad combination.  My foot was sliding all 
 over the pedal and by the time these low profile shoes made contact with 
 the clips I was pushing with the back half of my arch.  I've never really 
 entirely warmed to the no clip option but ride them to give my foot some 
 variety after surgery a couple of years ago.  I decided to soldier on.

 As I headed down a steep slope on the aptly named Rollin Irish Rd. I 
 tried to lift the chain onto the big ring.  It wouldn't go and my foot 
 couldn't stay with the spin going downhill.  At the next top and first sign 
 of shade, I stopped and adjusted the set screw on the FD.  I had lots and 
 lots of rolling terrain to go through and really wanted that ring to push 
 on.  However, I soon realized that I was now having trouble trimming the 
 FD.  No matter what I did it seemed to rub somewhere and the rattle which 
 had developed between the steel bottle and cage  made it harder to figure 
 out.  Onward I struggle down a beautiful dirt road.

 On the return trip the trim problem only seemed to get worse and my rhythm 
 was completely off.  On an up shift the chain now jumped across the 48 and 
 wrapped around the crank arm.  Looking straight down I suddenly realized 
 that the FD had gotten knocked out of parallel.  But as I sat back down I 
 had the sensation that my saddle was loose and moving up  down.  I stood 
 up and gave it a push.  Just a bit of movement.  Now five miles from home I 
 had feet sliding around, a FD that wouldn't trim, a water bottle rattling, 
 and a saddle bobbing.  At about three miles I hit a mile of 8-9% grade that 
 I usually climb in a 34/27 but  with my saddle now quite loose and given 
 how out of sync I was I tried to downshift to the little ring.  The FD went 
 across and into the fender while the chain ground against the 
 parallelogram.  Time to walk. At least at the top of that hill I had two 
 miles of dirt road to coast down.

 Tomorrow is another day.  Everything is fixable.

 Michael
 Westford, VT


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Re: [RBW] Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Grant Petersen
I've got no Cranial connections, but I know who does.

I like the new 9/8 designation(---we can pronounce it design-ation),
but we're sticking with the old standard 8/8, for the record.






On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 2:43 PM, Joe Bunik jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 You're not grip-sniffing alone on this one, Sam - I was just
 ruminating on the very same topic this a.m. as I rode the train and
 stared vacantly at the headset of my Legolas!

 First, the RBW / Crane headset/spacer mount bell is a great item. It's
 not just another spacer with a thread added, but is machined (CNC'd?)
 from a larger solid piece. Meaning the base for the bell is better
 positioned and much less likely to strip out (as I've experienced w/
 other's products).

 The Crane however is designed to work with either 1 (using an
 included shim) or 9/8 headsets. Standard Riv usage is as a 1
 threaded steerer spacer, which presumes you have a tall-enough steerer
 (as all good Rivs should!). The Legolas is one of the exceptions
 available as 1 threadless, but it's the same situation- the oversize
 bell mount requires a shim.

 It looks a little wonky though, to stack 1 spacers above/below this
 larger alloy chunk (lovely chunk it is). My eye-easing remedy had been
 (reading from top-to-bottom), 1) 9/8 threadless cap, 2) a single thin
 1 spacer, 3) Nitto TFL stem (9/8, and is on a reducer shim), 4)
 Crane bell mount (also on a shim, and its oversize-ness matches the
 9/8 Nitto stem nicely), 5) 1 headset hanger (for cantilevers), 6)
 triple-1 spacers a la the Rivendell shot-glass, 7) 1 threadless
 headset top race.

 Problem is I've recently switched to a different hanger for my canti
 setup, rendering unnecessary the headset-hanger separator parked
 between the fat Crane and thinner shot-glass. I may try to find some
 thin 9/8 spacers and do a similar shotglass-over-a-shim, but I'll bet
 that will look wonky with the 1 top race. :-/

 The Ideal Solution (maybe GP can turn some screws on Crane!?) would be
 for a similar style mount, but exclusively for 1!

 =- Joe Bunik
 Walnut Creek, CA


 On 7/19/14, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
  Looks like the outer spacer mount diameter bulges out wider than the
  regular spacer diameters on 1 steerers, like the pic on the rivsite (
  http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bellhed.htm)
 
  So I was wondering, does it stick out on yours, or is it just that way in
  that pic they have on the site?
 
  One of my favorite features of Riv bikes are the shot-glasses - the
  pretty stack of headset spacers. I don't want to ruin the line.
 
  Maybe I am just cork grip sniffing about this, but it's one of the
 things I
 
  find beautiful on these bikes.
 
  So just want to know how it really is so I can stop mulling and either
 get
  one, or wait until they start selling one with a uniform outer diameter
 for
 
  1 spacers.
 
  Didn't they have one with an aluminum (silver colored) bell on it once?
  That would be a nice match for all the silver color on these bikes.
 
 
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Grant
Rivendell Bicycle Works
www.rivbike.com
925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread Ryan
Definitely new bike day. Glad Riv took care of you...but of course no 
surprise. 
On Monday, July 21, 2014 3:24:43 PM UTC-5, John Stowe wrote:

 Back in May I was on a group ride with my toddler in the front seat of 
 our Sam Hillborne when I got my first flat ever for that bike. Probably 
 approaching 2000 miles on it, so not too bad, I thought. Walk to a bench, 
 snack and sippy cup for the kid, get out the patch kit. As I pulled the 
 frame pump out from between the double top tubes, though, I noticed a 
 suspiciously rust-looking discoloration along the lug attaching the lower 
 top tube to the seat tube. I'm perfectly comfortable doing my own 
 maintenance, but frame issues are definitely above my pay grade - 
 assuming that 1 1/2 top tubes would still be pretty good, I rode straight 
 home and then the next day I took it by my LBS for diagnosis.

 I was hoping maybe there was just a gap in the paint that allowed water 
 and then rust in, but the shop owner knew better what to look for and 
 showed me that there actually was a crack, about halfway around the joint 
 between the lug and the seat tube. Hard to say how long it was there, or 
 took to develop - It was on the side I lean against the wall when I park 
 it, and opposite the side I usually mount from, so it's not an area I 
 looked at much. So it turns out the flat was a good thing. Once we got it 
 cleaned up, I was able to get an OK picture or two (the little tab on the 
 right is bent out a bit because we were picking at it trying to decide if 
 it was a paint chip or metal).


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jyhjNqQpbFk/U81oZFxg80I/Bcg/M7i258IK7YY/s1600/DSC_0306.jpg
 I got the frame secondhand, so Rivendell had no particular obligation to 
 me (I was concerned about spending that much on a frame at the time, so 
 saving a couple hundred bucks helped make my decision to get a Riv), but I 
 figured I'd give them a call for advice on how to go about getting my frame 
 repaired. Keven told me that while it could be repaired, they were curious 
 to know how/why it failed, and would like for it to go back to the factory 
 for inspection. I'm on the large side at 220ish lb., and I do carry the 
 baby and/or groceries on occasion, but most of my riding is relatively 
 low-stress city riding and commuting, so overall I probably cause much less 
 stress than the other bikes on this list that get to go on off-road 
 adventures/Jamborees/Entmoots/S24Os on a regular basis happily endure. 
 Plus, it had fairly low mileage compared to a typical steel frame's 
 lifetime (it was secondhand, but unbuilt/ridden before me).

 Keven worked with me on a much-more-than-fair deal to swap the frame for a 
 new one, which with the recent sizing change durned out to be a better fit 
 for me - I was between the 56cm and 60cm in the old lineup, so the new 58cm 
 is right on the money. The new frame was on its way to me within a week, 
 and the next weekend I swapped out the parts and sent the cracked frame 
 back in the same box. Aside from the bare cable runs being ever-so-slightly 
 longer, it was a pretty smooth process. The teardown was a lot quicker than 
 the buildup, as expected. I figured I'd put my GoPro (sadly, having such 
 things appears to be necessary with so many grumpy drivers around) on the 
 ceiling fan and see what the top of my head looks like when I'm working on 
 my bikes:

 http://youtu.be/EgTIcVUVnkA

 It's been a while now, but I still want to publicly thank Keven/Riv for 
 going much farther than necessary to make sure I was back on a complete, 
 non-broken Rivendell when there was really no obligation to help me at all. 

 My question for the group is: did I get a second new bike day, or just a 
 fixed bike day? There wasn't a dramatic change in feel between the old 
 and new bikes, though I'd say my position did feel slightly more sensible - 
 which I guess is a sign of a closer fit between the frame and rider size. 
 Regardless, my co-pilot and I have been enjoying the new 58cm frame this 
 summer (This picture also should answer the question: what good are those 
 giant Bosco Bullmoose bars, really? Getting around babies with giant heads, 
 of course!):


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SzummpC179E/U81uEahzALI/Bcw/PYE4LnUrm0w/s1600/IMG_2496.jpg
 Two thoughts on shifting since moving to the new frame: 

 1. I had a bear of a time getting the front derailleur to shift properly 
 when I swapped frames, especially into the smallest chainring (of a Sugino 
 triple). I was using what I think is the same low-profile Shimano MTB 
 derailleur that Riv sells, but I just couldn't get it to move in far 
 enough, and anyway, when I mounted it as low/close as Shimano recommends, 
 shifting to the big/big combination (48/32) would make the chain rub on the 
 lever arm where the cable attaches - this must not be an issue on bikes 
 with steeper seat tubes, because otherwise it seems like a silly fault to 
 make it through the 

[RBW] Re: Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread BSWP
I'm going to machine my own double-bell spacer ring mount, to satisfy my 
hunkered hankering for a two-tone song I can plink out on a pair of Crane 
bells. It will either be in the shape of an ellipse (a four-arc 
approximation is all I can manage on my mill), or mostly circular, with 
minimally-extending fobs for the threaded bell shafts. There are various 
ways of changing the tone of a brass bell, it will be fun to experiment. If 
it works out, I'll post up a picture.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Joe Bunik
Andrew, who do you think you are, Chris Chen? However, I am happy to
help user test this for you!

I am going to investigate cutting the mount off and threading the Big
N' Loud Crane (M6?) ... so crazy it might just work.
=- Joe

On 7/21/14, BSWP ashtab...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm going to machine my own double-bell spacer ring mount, to satisfy my
 hunkered hankering for a two-tone song I can plink out on a pair of Crane
 bells. It will either be in the shape of an ellipse (a four-arc
 approximation is all I can manage on my mill), or mostly circular, with
 minimally-extending fobs for the threaded bell shafts. There are various
 ways of changing the tone of a brass bell, it will be fun to experiment. If

 it works out, I'll post up a picture.

 - Andrew, Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread Chris Chen
I. Uh.

DOUBLE DINGER


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Joe Bunik jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Andrew, who do you think you are, Chris Chen? However, I am happy to
 help user test this for you!

 I am going to investigate cutting the mount off and threading the Big
 N' Loud Crane (M6?) ... so crazy it might just work.
 =- Joe

 On 7/21/14, BSWP ashtab...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'm going to machine my own double-bell spacer ring mount, to satisfy my
  hunkered hankering for a two-tone song I can plink out on a pair of Crane
  bells. It will either be in the shape of an ellipse (a four-arc
  approximation is all I can manage on my mill), or mostly circular, with
  minimally-extending fobs for the threaded bell shafts. There are various
  ways of changing the tone of a brass bell, it will be fun to experiment.
 If
 
  it works out, I'll post up a picture.
 
  - Andrew, Berkeley
 
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I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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Re: [RBW] Re: SimpleOne Rohloff Conversion

2014-07-21 Thread 'Hudson Doerge' via RBW Owners Bunch
i'm a little curious about this set up as well. i love my SO, but as we are 
wont to do, tinkering is never far from thought. though luckily my lacking 
wallet should keep my SO a 1x1 for the foreseeable future.

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[RBW] Re: WTB/Get More Info/Provide A Cautionary Tale Regarding: Sugino Chainring Spacers

2014-07-21 Thread Zack
Follow-up note:

Per Mark at Riv, the Sugino spacers are .1mm.  

They also don't have any and have them on order from Sugino but it's going 
to be a month or so until they get them.  So, if you have any kicking 
around that you don't want to use, let me know!

 

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[RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

2014-07-21 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
If you're going to the trouble of brazing on cantilever bosses, why not 
consider brazing on Racer bosses? They're the same exact bosses located 
differently. I guess you'll lock yourself into just one single type of 
brake and you'll need to buy the stainless sleeves, but I really like the 
Racer brakes and think they are a marvelous balance between power and 
control when used with Campagnolo Ergopower levers.

I don't particularly believe cantilever and linear pull brakes are really 
that different (in power/modulation/control/etc) when the cantis are set up 
correctly, and especially if the cantis are used with the brake levers with 
the desired mechanical advantage (they all differ by a bit). True, it takes 
more effort to get the cantis working to my liking (versus the linear 
pull's no-brainer/non-adjustable setup) but that's also why I adjust for 
more leverage/less travel up front and less leverage/more travel in the 
back. This allows me to balance the front-rear power and affords me more 
tolerance for out-of-trueness in the rear wheel. But we're just nitpicking 
at this point.

I actually find linear pull brakes somewhat of a hinderance when one is 
trying to use big tires and fenders because one can't adjust where the 
horizontal actuation cable is. My Surly for example has the cable/latch 
rubbing the top of the front fender because I'm running 2.0 Kojaks and 
thick plastic fenders. It doesn't impact braking performance but it's kinda 
annoying to have the brake mechanically scrap the top of the plastic fender 
every time I touch the front brake lever. This is with normal height 
linear-pull brakes so I'll imagine the shorter Mini Motos will be even more 
restricting.

I'll admit it. I dislike the Neo Retro. They require brake levers with a 
higher mechanical advantage to work well because they don't have a lot of 
mechanical advantage themselves. Look at the curves on this for comparison 
and you'll see what I mean:

http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/

In addition, they also stick out like sore thumbs. Used at the back, 
they've poked at my shoes occasionally. They do look very nice though, but 
that's essentially their only saving grace.



On Saturday, July 19, 2014 5:20:10 PM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:

 So my curiosity has been peaked after a brief discussion on the trail with 
 a guy about his Paul's mini motos. He was very impressed with them even 
 having previously been using the neo retros on the same bike, a Rock 
 Lobster cross. The claim was FAR more power and better modulation with all 
 other variables consistent. Levers were cane creek. For some reason I 
 lumped the Minis in with the touring cantis in that they were for more 
 clearance, but not much different as to power. After some quick reading on 
 the magic computer box, it seems this guy is not alone in his assessment. 

 I am a big fan of cantilever style brakes. So much so, I decided to take 
 the center mount racers off my Hilsen to have canti studs added. Plan was 
 to swap the Racers for some Neo Retros...but now I'm wondering about the 
 Mini Motos. 

 Has anyone tried the Minis, or even better, both Minis and Neos??

 For the record, I know I like the Neos , and the direct mount racers on my 
 Rambler are awesome. And YES, I realize a set of xt v-brakes would deliver, 
 but I don't like the aesthetic and don't want to change levers. 



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Re: [RBW] Son of More Entmoot

2014-07-21 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Great write up and images as usual Brian!  Love the one towards the end of 
the tail gate with the saddle bag's and Riv's hanging out... wonderful 
closing thought! :)


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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv headset spacer bell mount outside diameter in line with your spacers, or wider?

2014-07-21 Thread David Banzer
I did this once. Little bending, filing, and drilling. 
It wasn't too much work, and once set up I was very happy with it.
The only tricky part was positioning the striker in the right spot.
David

On Monday, July 21, 2014 6:37:07 PM UTC-5, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Andrew, who do you think you are, Chris Chen? However, I am happy to 
 help user test this for you! 

 I am going to investigate cutting the mount off and threading the Big 
 N' Loud Crane (M6?) ... so crazy it might just work. 
 =- Joe 

 On 7/21/14, BSWP asht...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: 
  I'm going to machine my own double-bell spacer ring mount, to satisfy my 
  hunkered hankering for a two-tone song I can plink out on a pair of 
 Crane 
  bells. It will either be in the shape of an ellipse (a four-arc 
  approximation is all I can manage on my mill), or mostly circular, with 
  minimally-extending fobs for the threaded bell shafts. There are various 
  ways of changing the tone of a brass bell, it will be fun to experiment. 
 If 
  
  it works out, I'll post up a picture. 
  
  - Andrew, Berkeley 
  
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[RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

2014-07-21 Thread Christian
Thanks Michael. I've got the cable set up pretty close to the tire-a little 
less than an inch from the fender.  They really are working fine.  How does 
ones tell which direction is right on the springs, by the way?  I AM easily 
confused.  

Best wishes,

Christian

On Monday, July 21, 2014 1:46:05 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 If the issue is power, instead of centering, rubbing, noise or stability, 
 I would expect one of two causes.  First, it may be a mismatch with the 
 levers.  I found that the Shimano SIS levers did not work well with any 
 cantis.  They just pull too much cable to get a good grip.  Second, and 
 here I'm guessing a bit because I have no experience with the touring 
 cantis, only the noes, my intuition tells me I will get the most power when 
 the cable is 90 degrees from the arms.  On my neo retros that means I have 
 a very hi and long straddle cable. The touring cantis, at 45 degrees would 
 be much lower.  The Paul site says this:

 We recommend running the Touring Canti with a lower straddle wire to 
 maximize stopping power. Having the cable carrier between 1 inches and 2 
 above the tire is a good range.

 I suppose it could also be the pads or too little toe in that is 
 compromising the power.  

 I find setting up cantis is best with a lever that has a quick release, 
 so they can be set pretty close to the rim and still allow easy wire 
 removal.  The Cane Creek and Tektro levers work great with these brakes.  I 
 also like to have an adjustable barrel on the cable and a good quality 
 hanger, Paul's are nice to work with.  To adjust them I simply unhook the 
 straddle cable, put an allen wrench on the outside and move the 15mm 
 adjusting bolt to the desired tension in the return spring.  BTW, be 
 careful when installing the springs,  They go in one direction for cantis 
 and the other for Cps.  It's easy to get confused.

 Hope this helps.

 Michael



 On Monday, July 21, 2014 8:52:48 AM UTC-4, Christian wrote:

 Hi All,

 Many folks here note that they needed to do some fiddling with their 
 Paul's to get them set up right.  I'm curious what tricks people have used 
 to get the best performance out of their Paul cantis?  I have touring 
 cantis and they're fine.  Beautiful, of course, but performance wise 
 they're not world changing.  I gotta say, however, that the super cheap 
 Deore V brakes on my LHT--pulled by mtn levers on albatross bars--work 
 every bit as good if not better.   

 Anyway, set up tips, tricks, etc would be good to know about.  

 Thanks,

 Christian 



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[RBW] Anyone using this iPhone mount on their Rivendell's quill stem?

2014-07-21 Thread lungimsam
Says the mount fits stem tubes 25-44mm wide.
Nitto quills are 20. Was wondering if they actually fit the narrower 
Nittos. Thanks.

http://www.quadlockcase.com/products/quad-lock-bar-mount-pro

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[RBW] What do Rivenell Riders use for iPhone mounts on their stems?

2014-07-21 Thread lungimsam
Just wondering if anything out there mounts on quill stems.
What do you use? Pics are great. Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Just fixed, or new bike day? - either way, thanks to the nice Riv folks

2014-07-21 Thread Tony DeFilippo
New bike day... Congrats and bravo to Riv for doing above and beyond!

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