[RBW] jockey wheels for yesteryear shimano

[Mobile Bill]

This is generally a conservative bunch, at least mechanically speaking. So 
you understand my desire to keep my 6-year-old low-normal shimano rear 
derailleur going after 20,000 odd miles (Shimano quit making them shortly 
after Riv started promoting them, so can't get new). The jockey wheels are 
shot. Trouble is, it's really hard to find any replacement jockey wheels 
with 10 teeth. Anybody tried an 11-tooth replacement for an old 10 tooth? 
SHouldn't be a chain size issue, but may be a space issue inside the cage? 
If that's not possible, anybody got a clue what so many of us are going to 
do as our old 8-speed derailleurs need normal part replacement.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

Anyone told Neal Stephenson about this?

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[justinaugust]

I carry 2 locks with me.
One can go through the rear triangle around the rim onto the rack.
The other will lock the front wheel to the frame.
That should keep it secure. Or I run the rear one around the rim, over a 
seat or chain stay and then to the rack. More secure, but unneeded.

-J

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 1:05:30 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> @ted:
> I am thinking of getting pitlocks for the wheels, and just using my mini u 
> lock on the frame to lock onto sign posts.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[justinaugust]

Let's keep it to one imaginary fantasy land, shall we.
THE FORK WAS FORGED IN THE FIRES OF MOUNT DM

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 6:57:22 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
> the valryian sword of crabon, forged before the doom, breakable only by 
> steel, and rocks, and unseen jarring motions. 
>
> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 9:55 PM, cyclotourist  > wrote:
>
>> Just wait for season five of Game of Thrones to prove otherwise!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 5:16 PM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>
>>> Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.  What that tells 
>>> us, I don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.  
>>>
>>> ~pb
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it 
 certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Goshen Peter]

the valryian sword of crabon, forged before the doom, breakable only by
steel, and rocks, and unseen jarring motions.

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 9:55 PM, cyclotourist 
wrote:

> Just wait for season five of Game of Thrones to prove otherwise!
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 5:16 PM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.  What that tells us,
>> I don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.
>>
>> ~pb
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it
>>> certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[cyclotourist]

Just wait for season five of Game of Thrones to prove otherwise!

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal




On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 5:16 PM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.  What that tells us,
> I don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.
>
> ~pb
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it
>> certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet on Seattle CL

[Justin Schoop]

Do you know if he is willing to ship? Unfortunately I'm on the other coast.

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[RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Ron Mc]

they're tough on tires

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:16:46 PM UTC-5, pb wrote:
>
> Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.  What that tells us, 
> I don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.  
>
> ~pb
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it 
>> certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

['pb' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.  What that tells us, I 
don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.  

~pb

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

> I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it 
> certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.  
>

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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet on Seattle CL

[cyclotour...@gmail.com]

That is such a perfect build. Very appropriate pricing given all the shiny 
bits included with it. And orange!

I have the Sachs on my tandem, and like them a lot.

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:35:28 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Yes, and those Sachs ergo shifters are boss.  They're basically Campy 
> Record, with cosmetic differences.  Very solid action.
>
> I have a full Sachs gruppe (minus hubs) on my Giordana gofast, and I just 
> picked up some '96 Athena ergos for my Riv (7 speed freewheel cog spacing 
> is the same as 8 speed Campy).
>
> On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 11:49 AM, zybariver  > wrote:
>
>> I know this bike/rider, it's a great value considering the condition and 
>> the top shelf build -  Nitto lugged stem, Nitto cages, Dura Ace, Phil Wood, 
>> Chris King, XTR,etc.  
>>
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4655702328.html.
>>
>> Greg
>> Seattle
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[RJM]

I see the speed jumps while I am cycling if I look at the speed page but 
they don't really show up on GarminConnect after I download the ride, not 
that I have noticed anyway. The average speed doesn't seem to be affected 
either. 

Personally, I handle the speed bouncing around because I like the no sensor 
thing on my bike and I'm not really concerned with speed. I'm more 
concerned with seeing my route afterwards, my miles ridden, and elevation 
differences. I actually turned speed off on the page I usually display so 
it doesn't show while I am riding. I have distance, elevation and percent 
grade showing currently. 

I do have 1 mile laps enabled in the Garmin 500, so when in garminconnect 
it shows a break down of every mile and how quickly I did that mile. Not 
that I look at it all that much, I just turned it on one day and never 
turned it off. 

To be truthful, I should have bought the Garmin 800 or 810 when I was 
buying the computer because the mapping feature would be something I use. I 
just don't care about speed though.

On Monday, September 15, 2014 10:07:25 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:

> Certainly agree with your reasoning and conclusions. There is a lot of 
> computation involved in just getting a gps position fix. All the derived 
> stuff the gamins provide (speed, distance, vertical rate, grade, feet 
> climbed, etc.) involves more computing. Plenty of room for errors. Could be 
> bugs, poor numerical methods, or just limits of accuracy in the system. In 
> any case if adding the speed-cadence thing eliminates the jumps, that 
> clearly implies the GPS only system is deficient.
>
> Roughly what size jumps you are you seeing? Do they show up in the time 
> history plots? Can you say what sort of duration and frequency the jumps 
> have?
> I'm thinking I should try to look for them with my 510. Perhaps I just 
> haven't noticed them even though they are there, perhaps the GLONASS make a 
> difference. I'm kinda curious.
>
> On Monday, September 15, 2014 6:53:26 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure if it is specific to my 500 or includes other units. 
>> Certainly, the jumps are small but they are noticeable and consistent, even 
>> when under clear skies and constant speed on a straight road. They do 
>> disappear abruptly when the Garmin sensor is installed which gave some a 
>> clue. Nevertheless, the speed that GPS-based units display must be 
>> calculated instead of measured like with the Cateyes. If GPS signal isn't 
>> optimal, it is conceivable (doesn't mean it's the real reason) that the 
>> calculation reveals the lag in positioning.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:35:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>>
>>> I have never noticed the speed reading jumping around on my Garmin 510, 
>>> exepct when I hooked up a speed cadence sensor and didn't set the wheel 
>>> size.
>>> I this erratic speed reading you speak of a feature of all Garmin units? 
>>> Is it limited to those that don't use GLONASS and GPS? Is it all the time 
>>> every where or limited to specific situations? 
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:45:53 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
>>> wrote:

 Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than 
 a quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence 
 sensor 
 tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed 
 much, 
 I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device (without 
 its optional speed/cadence sensor that further optionally can be 
 calibrated).

 The Cateye Strada wireless units are (relatively cheap), have big main 
 numbers (speed), only need a battery change once every year or so, and is 
 better than 1% accurate even if you follow the lookup table on the 
 instruction sheet. You don't have to break out your measuring tape and 
 inscribe markings on the garage floor if you don't want to, although doing 
 so will give you better than ppt (parts per thousand) accuracy.

 The Knog meters are more or less a joke because of their mounting 
 system. They use the same silicone straps that are quite useful on lights 
 but are dreadful on both the display/head and sensor units. The straps 
 slip 
 easily. I have two sets that I got cheap but I don't use anymore.


 On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the 
> garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or 
> pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or 
> bag. 
> You can load routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming 
> up. 
> you can pick what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one 
> time, 
> and you can set up several screens that you can page through or just 
> stick 
> with one.
>
> On Sunday, September 1

RE: [RBW] Re: Packing S&S-coupled Riv - Tips, Tools & Gears to make it easier?

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Ted:

Did you use this stem for packing an S&S coupled bike?  I take it turning the 
bars wasn’t enough to get the bike into the case safely, and this stem allowed 
you to take the bars off altogether without affecting taping, controls, etc.?

Tom

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ted Shwartz
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 1:37 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Packing S&S-coupled Riv - Tips, Tools & Gears to make it 
easier?

Pierre

in 2001 I purchased a 3T "MOTUS" quill stem with removable faceplate (held 
on by 2 bolts). Enclosed are a couple of photos, one of which is a little 
blurry. They show the stem. Maybe you can find one somewhere. This is a great 
stem because you can pull the handlebars off without having to untape, or 
remove controls.

Here is a listing for one on ebay: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-3T-Motus-Quill-Stem-w-Silver-Finish-26-0-mm-clamp-x-120-mm-/390372950036

Mine has worked for 13 years and 35,000 miles

Regards
Ted

On Sunday, September 7, 2014 11:39:00 PM UTC-4, Pierre wrote:
Hello Bunch, S&S-coupled Riv owners:

I am getting my 59 cm Hilsen retrofitted with S&S couplers. It's not a gigantic 
frame but not exactly a small frame either. I already anticipate a couple of 
issues and would like a couple of tips.

1/ Handlebar: is there such thing out there as a quill stem w/ removable front 
plate? is it worthwhile to investigate threadless adapter + ahead stem?

2/ Fork: (not sure yet if I'll need to remove it) anybody tried the the Velo 
Orange rinko headset? (or have a spare American Classic Trilock?)

Anything things you've learned over the years to make packing/un-packing easy? 
Or add. tools/gears?

Thank you.

Pierre

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Ron Mc]

my haircutter, her sister backed into her carbon bike then her LBS threw 
holy water on it.  She got wise about it and submitted it to her insurance 
for replacement.  

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> Will this lead to a "one less carbon fork" button one day? haha
>
> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> I understand that. I meant what it means about if it converted him away 
>> from carbon.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 12:09:50 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I 
>>> could just trick you into picking the carbon one.  Otherwise I can be 
>>> expected to fail suddenly and catastrophically
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:54:07 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old 
 steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were 
 "instructional." 
 I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[lungimsam]

@ted:
I am thinking of getting pitlocks for the wheels, and just using my mini u 
lock on the frame to lock onto sign posts.

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Eric Daume]

I haven't used a bike computer in years, but on Sunday I was leaving to do
the Ohio to Erie trail, so Saturday afternoon found me at Performance
looking at bike computers (and a better rain jacket)

I ended getting some Axiom model, $30 on sale, and it's proven to be junk.
It'll work for a while, them the head unit freezes up and it won't accept
any input. Then, it will start working again.

Also, there's about a micrometer of range between the sensor and sender
where it works. Outside that micrometer, it either rubs or doesn't send.

I do like my new jacket, though.

Eric Daume
Currently holed up in Mt Vernon



On Sunday, September 14, 2014, Neil  wrote:

> Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike
> computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the
> like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless,
> and a small, modest screen.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Neil
>
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[RBW] WTB: Grand Bois Maes-style bars, either parallel or non-parallel

[Anton Tutter]

Just like the title says. Parallel preferred, but will consider the 
non-parallel also.  If any of you have a spare set you don't need, or have 
decided that the one you have isn't right for you, I'm interested. Contact 
off-list.

Anton

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[RBW] Re: 18 tooth jump on wide low double?

[Garth]

That'll work just fine .  I've ran a 48/44/26 and never had a problem 
shifting up/down the 44-26 with a Shimano double FD-5500 .  

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[RBW] Re: 18 tooth jump on wide low double?

[Avery Wilson]

I've got a wide low double I put together on a Sugino xd with an 18 tooth jump. 
It's a 42-24, and it's been perfect for the riding I do. The rings are not 
pinned or ramped. The derailleur is a Campy Mirage, everything friction shifted 
with silvers. 

The only adjustment I've had to make is to tighten the high limit screw so that 
it doesn't fall into the space between the 42 tooth ring and the chainguard. 
Once I did that, it's been perfect. Good. Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Bill Lindsay]

I had a coworker at the bike shop that renamed Campy 1010 dropouts.  He 
called them "7-11" dropouts.  

The reason he called them 7-11 dropouts was that he'd open the rear QR when 
he leaned the bike over for a quick trip into 7-11.  Because of the 
horizontal dropouts, if you grabbed the bike and jumped on it and tried to 
ride away, the rear wheel would slam forward in the dropout and stop you, 
just long enough to grab the guy.  I do something similar by moving both DT 
shifters all the way forward, so the bike will horribly shift as soon as a 
scofflaw tries to pedal off.  

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 6:46:56 AM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:
>
> If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for two 
> reasons.
>
> 1.  I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace
>
> 2.  I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting 
> him- or herself greasy.  Rear wheels are generally harder and messier to 
> remove.  I have only ever lost one wheel, and that was a front; I have seen 
> a number of bikes missing a wheel, and it has always been the front.
>
> However, since i use my bike for transportation, I prefer to protect 
> *both* wheels, since it's a very long walk home.
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:50:52 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>>
>> I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the event 
>> someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer 
>> stops: 
>> http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
>>  
>> Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist approach.  
>>
>> An additional bonus of riding a Rivendell is that, in my experience, most 
>> people view the bike as being really old and likely, less valuable. Your 
>> mileage may vary, however.
>>
>> Sean 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB/WTT: dirt drops

[Leslie]

Eric,

The *old* RM-014 is the new RM-013;  the new RM-014 has the 31.8, but the 
old one is smaller in the clamp diameter



On Sunday, September 14, 2014 11:47:48 PM UTC-4, Eric Cardella wrote:
>
> I see a RM-014, which has a 31.8mm clamp diameter. No 26.0mm options that 
> I can see.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Goshen Peter]

Will this lead to a "one less carbon fork" button one day? haha

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I understand that. I meant what it means about if it converted him away
> from carbon.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 12:09:50 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I
>> could just trick you into picking the carbon one.  Otherwise I can be
>> expected to fail suddenly and catastrophically
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:54:07 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old
>>> steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were 
>>> "instructional."
>>> I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Deacon Patrick]

I understand that. I meant what it means about if it converted him away 
from carbon.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 12:09:50 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I 
> could just trick you into picking the carbon one.  Otherwise I can be 
> expected to fail suddenly and catastrophically
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:54:07 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old 
>> steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were 
>> "instructional." 
>> I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Bill Lindsay]

It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I 
could just trick you into picking the carbon one.  Otherwise I can be 
expected to fail suddenly and catastrophically

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:54:07 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old 
> steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were 
> "instructional." 
> I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Deacon Patrick]

I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old 
steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were 
"instructional." 
I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Crabon forks are not your best bet for swordfighting

[Bill Lindsay]

I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it 
certainly makes a point.  It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.  

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Bill Lindsay]

The beauty of this comment is that it highlights one "I wish they'd make 
that" product.  A cuesheet/map/navigation/GPS Brevet APP for the Kindle 
paperwhite.  Ideally the device with the paperwhite display would also have 
a camera so you could submit your receipts or proof of passage 
electronically to your RBA.  A device like that would easily fit in the map 
case of your handlebar bag and replace several sheets of paper and in 
principle should allow you to flip between them without having to reach 
inside your bag at all.  

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:17:42 AM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:
>
> the beauty of a cue sheet over a smartphone-based navigation system is 
> that the cue sheet is always on, and easy to view/read while moving.  It 
> never runs out of battery power.  Stopping to check the navigation on a 
> smartphone is... stopping.  On a brevet, which the OP is planning to do, 
> one doesn't want to stop/loiter just anywhere :-)  The clock never stops.
>
> While I am having fun with the RWGPS iPhone app, I will never give up my 
> bike computer/cue sheet.  I have the app running on the route I am riding, 
> but since the screen isn't all that readable outside in the sun, I have the 
> voice prompts turned on, but the phone itself is under the cue sheet in my 
> Acorn bag map case.
>

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Lynne Fitz]

the beauty of a cue sheet over a smartphone-based navigation system is that the 
cue sheet is always on, and easy to view/read while moving.  It never runs out 
of battery power.  Stopping to check the navigation on a smartphone is... 
stopping.  On a brevet, which the OP is planning to do, one doesn't want to 
stop/loiter just anywhere :-)  The clock never stops.

While I am having fun with the RWGPS iPhone app, I will never give up my bike 
computer/cue sheet.  I have the app running on the route I am riding, but since 
the screen isn't all that readable outside in the sun, I have the voice prompts 
turned on, but the phone itself is under the cue sheet in my Acorn bag map case.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Crystal Fellow, Nelson Longflap, Tubus Tara

[Rusty Click]

Hi everyone,  thanks for checking out these items I put up for sale.   All 
the items are now sold, pending payment, and will be shipped this week.
If any of the deals fall through, I'll repost the item for sale.  

Thanks,
Rusty

On Saturday, September 13, 2014 4:01:04 PM UTC-4, Rusty Click wrote:
>
> Found some items that need to go, so as to make room for more I guess. 
>  Anyway here is a short list for your consideration.
>
> *Crystal Fellow seat post* :  27.2  used 1 yr with normal insertion marks 
> -- I needed(wanted) a tad more setback -- $50
>
> *Tubus Tara front low rider rack* (black) : I have some used P-clamps 
> if you want them $50
>
> *Carradice Nelson Long Flap*(green) :  little used, leather straps show 
> normal wear -- really wanted to like it, but prefer the panniers.  $90 
> includes SQR seat post QR.
>
> *Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard* tires  700X38 with approx 4300 miles 
>  plenty of tread$25 for pair 
>
> All items shipped CONUS --  paypal OK if you need to, but not preferred 
> Please contact off list for pics 
>
>
> Rusty Click
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 18 tooth jump on wide low double?

[Anton Tutter]

At one point I was running a TA Cyclotouriste 46/26T double on a climbing 
build.  Two derailleurs handled this 20T jump nicely: Huret Jubilee and 
Suntour continuous band. The Huret handled it the best, and the couple of 
times my bike dropped a chain (due to my own fault for not adjusting the 
limit screws) I could rely on the Huret to rehang it without stopping.

Anton

 

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:42:54 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I want to put together a couple more wide-low doubles based on 110/74 
> triple cranks.  The 44/28 I put together on a 130/74 triple shifts 
> much better than I anticipated, even with unpinned/ramped chainrings.. 
> So I was thinking maybe could go 18 teeth?  Thinking 44/26.  I run 
> 11-34 in the back and right now I'm using the 28 purely as a bailout 
> on grades in the teens.  On anything less than 10% grade I just keep 
> it in the 44 up front. 
>
> The main reason for doing this is cost savings, I have a few 26T 74bcd 
> chainrings lying around that I could put to good use.  Of course, when 
> it comes time to bailout, lower is also better as well.  We have an 
> 18% grade right at the end of many of our brevets here. 
>
> Just don't want to be slinging the chain off the top or the bottom. 
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Latest DIY Project: Making a Baggins Boxy Rando bag more....um....BOXY!

['Steve D.' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Nice work. I've always wanted Boxy Bag, but by the time I got around to 
purchasing one, the were out of stock then discontinued. But I do have the 
Baggins panniers, a Hoss saddlebag, and the bigger Baggins handle bar bag. 
Nice fabrication project. Thanks for sharing. I'll to keep an eye out for 
these on the list or on ebay.

On Monday, September 15, 2014 11:30:39 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I really like my Baggins Boxy rando bag, and still am very impressed at 
> how solid the Nitto F-15 front rack is.  Only problem is that the Baggins 
> bag was pretty darn floppy when I got it here on the list.  Right when I 
> got it I made a corroplast floor and back wall for it, which gave it a lot 
> better shape.  Tonight I made a custom crossbar for my Nitto F-15 which 
> totally squared up the front edge.  Now I'm really digging this setup.  
>
> Pictures proved I D-I-Yed it:
>
> Photo Album 
> 
>

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[RBW] Re: 18 tooth jump on wide low double?

[Ron Mc]

I run a 26-42 jump on my Cyclotouriste triple with super smooth ramps.  

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:42:54 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I want to put together a couple more wide-low doubles based on 110/74 
> triple cranks.  The 44/28 I put together on a 130/74 triple shifts 
> much better than I anticipated, even with unpinned/ramped chainrings.. 
> So I was thinking maybe could go 18 teeth?  Thinking 44/26.  I run 
> 11-34 in the back and right now I'm using the 28 purely as a bailout 
> on grades in the teens.  On anything less than 10% grade I just keep 
> it in the 44 up front. 
>
> The main reason for doing this is cost savings, I have a few 26T 74bcd 
> chainrings lying around that I could put to good use.  Of course, when 
> it comes time to bailout, lower is also better as well.  We have an 
> 18% grade right at the end of many of our brevets here. 
>
> Just don't want to be slinging the chain off the top or the bottom. 
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Ray Shine]

I have taught the same sort of lesson twice, the most recent just a few days 
ago. A worker at our corner deli had been "locking" her bike to a 2" pylon in 
front of our house (I placed it there to prevent the parallel parking 
challenged from backing into our newly planted sidewalk tree). The pipe sticks 
above the sidewalk only about 4 feet. The other day, I was present as she rode 
up, said hello, etc., then "U-locked" her bike to the pipe pylon. I suggested 
to her that wasn't the best locking practice. She looked puzzled, so I made the 
point by simply lifting her bike over the end of the pipe. 


I wish now I that had done it differently, as she was visibly quite 
embarrassed. I felt bad, as she is a very pleasant person. But, she at least 
locks up her bike more strategically now to another, much higher pole a bit 
further down the block. Also, it is capped with a Street Cleaning schedule sign 
that is much larger than the U-lock.





>
> From: Leslie 
>To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:56 AM
>Subject: [RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea
> 
>
>
>On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:31:11 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew? The 
>rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are orphan 
>front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't understand 
>the meaning of quick release skewers!
>>
>
>
>I had to re-explain that to my son, as I was dropping him back off at campus 
>for his sophomore year.   He locked up his bike out front of his dorm with a 
>Kryptonite U, but neglected to get it through the main triangle.  I walked 
>over, flipped the QR lever and the canti-straddle, then started to walk off w/ 
>his bike. Point made.  
>
>
>I've used a cable along w/ a U for decades.   Haven't had one go missing, 
>yet.
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

I was living in Hyde Park (Chicago, IL) in the '80s.  My front wheel walked 
off over the course of 30 minutes--the rest of the bike locked with a flat 
Kyrptonite to a fence in front of my girlfriend's apartment.  I saw bikes 
missing wheels in front of Regenstein library, and cut bike locks (mostly 
chains) lying on the ground near the racks at other libraries.

It was a desperate time and place! 

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:31:11 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>
> Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew? 
> The rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are 
> orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't 
> understand the meaning of quick release skewers!
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:46:56 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
> wrote:
>>
>> If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for 
>> two reasons.
>>
>> 1.  I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace
>>
>> 2.  I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting 
>> him- or herself greasy.  Rear wheels are generally harder and messier to 
>> remove.  I have only ever lost one wheel, and that was a front; I have seen 
>> a number of bikes missing a wheel, and it has always been the front.
>>
>> However, since i use my bike for transportation, I prefer to protect 
>> *both* wheels, since it's a very long walk home.
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:50:52 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the 
>>> event someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer 
>>> stops: 
>>> http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
>>>  
>>> Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist approach.  
>>>
>>> An additional bonus of riding a Rivendell is that, in my experience, 
>>> most people view the bike as being really old and likely, less valuable. 
>>> Your mileage may vary, however.
>>>
>>> Sean 
>>>
>>>
>>>

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RE: [RBW] Re: Riv-ish new build and a question

[Montclair BobbyB]

Tom:  You know how much I love the Mongoose ATBs... Both the chromed and the 
reds.  Yours is a beautiful build, and your friend will love it no doubt.  I 
have the exact same one (in a big size) that I'm looking to customize.  These 
last forever and are awesome all-around bikes.  Peace, BB

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Leslie]

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:31:11 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>
> Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew? 
> The rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are 
> orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't 
> understand the meaning of quick release skewers!
>


I had to re-explain that to my son, as I was dropping him back off at 
campus for his sophomore year.   He locked up his bike out front of his 
dorm with a Kryptonite U, but neglected to get it through the main 
triangle.  I walked over, flipped the QR lever and the canti-straddle, then 
started to walk off w/ his bike. Point made.  


I've used a cable along w/ a U for decades.   Haven't had one go missing, 
yet.

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Geir Bentzen]

Are you sure you need a cue sheet? Your smart phone may give you a map 
function with your position. In most cases it should be enough to check 
that when you are in doubt about where to go next, or you know you are so 
lost and out of time or acceptable weather that a return route must be 
found fast.I bought a round black Bell at Wal-Mart for a little more than $ 
20. It gives me accumulated distance, time of day, ride distance and moving 
time plus a speedometer. A big minus are the small numbers for everything 
except the speedometer. I need to wear prescription glasses to see them. 
But I can't use my phone without them either, and would not be able to use 
expensive cyclocomputers without glasses. I also use MapMyRide on the 
phone, but only check it after the ride or during breaks if I remember to 
pause it. It is good mental exercise to study a map before you go out and 
try to remember where to go based on that.
Geir

On Sunday, September 14, 2014 11:39:48 PM UTC-4, Neil wrote:
>
> Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
> computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
> like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
> and a small, modest screen.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Neil
>

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[RBW] 18 tooth jump on wide low double?

[Jim Bronson]

I want to put together a couple more wide-low doubles based on 110/74
triple cranks.  The 44/28 I put together on a 130/74 triple shifts
much better than I anticipated, even with unpinned/ramped chainrings..
So I was thinking maybe could go 18 teeth?  Thinking 44/26.  I run
11-34 in the back and right now I'm using the 28 purely as a bailout
on grades in the teens.  On anything less than 10% grade I just keep
it in the 44 up front.

The main reason for doing this is cost savings, I have a few 26T 74bcd
chainrings lying around that I could put to good use.  Of course, when
it comes time to bailout, lower is also better as well.  We have an
18% grade right at the end of many of our brevets here.

Just don't want to be slinging the chain off the top or the bottom.

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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet on Seattle CL

[Tim Gavin]

Yes, and those Sachs ergo shifters are boss.  They're basically Campy
Record, with cosmetic differences.  Very solid action.

I have a full Sachs gruppe (minus hubs) on my Giordana gofast, and I just
picked up some '96 Athena ergos for my Riv (7 speed freewheel cog spacing
is the same as 8 speed Campy).

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 11:49 AM, zybariver  wrote:

> I know this bike/rider, it's a great value considering the condition and
> the top shelf build -  Nitto lugged stem, Nitto cages, Dura Ace, Phil Wood,
> Chris King, XTR,etc.
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4655702328.html.
>
> Greg
> Seattle
>
>
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RE: [RBW] Re: Riv-ish new build and a question

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Oh, this would be a consummation devoutly to be wished!  Wish I could try it 
immediately, but it’ll have to wait till tonight.  (And, boy, will I feel silly 
if that turns out to be all that’s required!)  Thanks all for your suggestions.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Will
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:02 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Riv-ish new build and a question

+1. I had a skip in the big ring, small cog. Tightening the cable worked. I 
used the barrel adjuster, 1.5 turns.

On Monday, September 15, 2014 7:52:27 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
Is the shifter cable tight enough? Nice bike. I had one just like it. Heavy 
beast for sure!

On Monday, September 15, 2014 1:45:13 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:
A friend of mine desperately needed a practical bike, and I had a nice spare 
‘80s MTB bike (a chrome 1986 Mongoose ATB) waiting patiently (how else could a 
bike wait?) in the build queue.  Kismet, or serendipity, or something.  So that 
bike jumped the line, a Riv-ish build was completed (almost – see the question 
below), and my friend is very excited – she sees the practicality of the bike, 
but is also thrilled with its classic looks.  Here’s a pic:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/15054094568/

But here’s my question:  the bike is a 15 speed, with a triple crank and a five 
speed freewheel on the rear.  Shifting is great in every gear except the top 
gear, where despite several hours of tinkering I cannot get the bike to stop 
constant skipping/slipping.  This is in the big ring, small cog.  I adjusted 
the limit screws across a wide band of settings, in very small increments – 
ultimately, it wouldn’t drop into the smallest cog (at one extreme), or threw 
the chain off the smallest cog into the space between dropout and cog (at the 
other extreme).  But it still slipped constantly at all settings in between 
those extremes.  Again, every other gear combination is fine, smooth shifting, 
no skipping even under heavy load.  Teeth on all cogs of the freewheel and the 
big chainring (both original, I believe) look almost new, and I replaced the 
chain, so that’s new, too.  What am I missing?  I thought about the chain, but 
why would the bike perform flawlessly in every other gear, even under heavy 
load?

Many thanks for any ideas.



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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Sean Cleary]

Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew? 
The rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are 
orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't 
understand the meaning of quick release skewers!

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:46:56 AM UTC-5, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:
>
> If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for two 
> reasons.
>
> 1.  I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace
>
> 2.  I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting 
> him- or herself greasy.  Rear wheels are generally harder and messier to 
> remove.  I have only ever lost one wheel, and that was a front; I have seen 
> a number of bikes missing a wheel, and it has always been the front.
>
> However, since i use my bike for transportation, I prefer to protect 
> *both* wheels, since it's a very long walk home.
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:50:52 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>>
>> I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the event 
>> someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer 
>> stops: 
>> http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
>>  
>> Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist approach.  
>>
>> An additional bonus of riding a Rivendell is that, in my experience, most 
>> people view the bike as being really old and likely, less valuable. Your 
>> mileage may vary, however.
>>
>> Sean 
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] WTT/WTB - Pauls Brakes for your Marks Rack or Cambium - WTB Tan Medium Shop Sack

[Tim Gavin]

Brad-

I'll include all the hardware shown on the Rivbike photos.  But I'll keep
the (used) P-clamps if you don't need them.  I have plenty of bikes without
braze-ons.

PM me your shipping address.

Tim

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 9:09 AM, franklyn  wrote:

> In my experience, the 4-strut mounting
> 
> is much more secured and stable than the two struts plus the diving board.
> Using the struts at fork crown also cleans up the area around and under the
> brake holes for less interference with brakes, etc.
>
> Franklyn
> Berkeley, CA
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 5:31:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>> For sure two struts to mid fork fork braze ons and the diving
>> board...although I DO have top of the fork mounting bolts too and have been
>> considering trying the 4 strut boogie.
>
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Re: [Bulk] [RBW] Quick Swapping of Wald Basket on Front Rack

[Leslie]

I suppose it might've been a touch of overkill, but, my approach was:

I zip-tied my Wald to a Platrack, which I can then mount or remove from the 
front rack as needed...

The Platrack adds a touch of weight, but, it's durable, makes a good 
platform for the basket.

 

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Neil]

Thanks, everyone, for the varied responses! Patrick, what you are saying 
resonates deeply. I'm a lifelong map guy, and have not yet embraced the use 
of electronic devices in the field, apart from occasional consultation with 
Google Maps on the iphone. Partly because I am comfortable relying on maps 
and on my sense of place and direction. And I must admit to a reluctance to 
introducing another screen into my life, even one as small as a bike 
computer. Ahh, first world problems, right?
 
However, just last week, during a 5-day tour in Oregon, I had occasion to 
rely on a friend's odometer relating to some unsigned roads on a cue sheet, 
and it was mighty handy! And I hope to join my bro on some brevets next 
year, where there is a time element in play which counteracts the fun 
factor of getting lost.
 
Doug P has graciously offered to send me is older Cateye unit, so I think 
I'll start there.
 
Cheers,
 
Neil

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[RBW] Re: Cambium texture question for Cambiumists

[Wayne Mesard]

I put about 2000 miles on my Sam-with-C17 this summer. I didn't realize how 
comfortable it was until yesterday when I got on my Scott CR1 for the first 
time in months and realized how comfortable that saddle *wasn't*.

Regarding your specific question, no sticking.  I tend to shift position a 
lot on long rides, too. The C17 is very accommodating.  Also, there doesn't 
appear to be any discoloration of the cloth from chamois butter.

Wayne();



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[RBW] Rambouillet on Seattle CL

[zybariver]

I know this bike/rider, it's a great value considering the condition and 
the top shelf build -  Nitto lugged stem, Nitto cages, Dura Ace, Phil Wood, 
Chris King, XTR,etc.  

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4655702328.html.

Greg
Seattle


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Re: [RBW] WTT/WTB - Pauls Brakes for your Marks Rack or Cambium - WTB Tan Medium Shop Sack

[franklyn]

In my experience, the 4-strut mounting 
 
is much more secured and stable than the two struts plus the diving board. 
Using the struts at fork crown also cleans up the area around and under the 
brake holes for less interference with brakes, etc. 

Franklyn
Berkeley, CA

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 5:31:49 AM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>
> Tim,
> For sure two struts to mid fork fork braze ons and the diving 
> board...although I DO have top of the fork mounting bolts too and have been 
> considering trying the 4 strut boogie. 

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for two 
reasons.

1.  I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace

2.  I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting 
him- or herself greasy.  Rear wheels are generally harder and messier to 
remove.  I have only ever lost one wheel, and that was a front; I have seen 
a number of bikes missing a wheel, and it has always been the front.

However, since i use my bike for transportation, I prefer to protect *both* 
wheels, since it's a very long walk home.

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:50:52 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
>
> I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the event 
> someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer 
> stops: 
> http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
>  
> Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist approach.  
>
> An additional bonus of riding a Rivendell is that, in my experience, most 
> people view the bike as being really old and likely, less valuable. Your 
> mileage may vary, however.
>
> Sean 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish new build and a question

[Will]

+1. I had a skip in the big ring, small cog. Tightening the cable worked. I 
used the barrel adjuster, 1.5 turns. 

On Monday, September 15, 2014 7:52:27 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Is the shifter cable tight enough? Nice bike. I had one just like it. 
> Heavy beast for sure!
>
> On Monday, September 15, 2014 1:45:13 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:
>>
>>  A friend of mine desperately needed a practical bike, and I had a nice 
>> spare ‘80s MTB bike (a chrome 1986 Mongoose ATB) waiting patiently (how 
>> else could a bike wait?) in the build queue.  Kismet, or serendipity, or 
>> something.  So that bike jumped the line, a Riv-ish build was completed 
>> (almost – see the question below), and my friend is very excited – she sees 
>> the practicality of the bike, but is also thrilled with its classic looks.  
>> Here’s a pic:
>>
>>  
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/15054094568/
>>
>>  
>>
>> But here’s my question:  the bike is a 15 speed, with a triple crank and 
>> a five speed freewheel on the rear.  Shifting is great in every gear except 
>> the top gear, where despite several hours of tinkering I cannot get the 
>> bike to stop constant skipping/slipping.  This is in the big ring, small 
>> cog.  I adjusted the limit screws across a wide band of settings, in very 
>> small increments – ultimately, it wouldn’t drop into the smallest cog (at 
>> one extreme), or threw the chain off the smallest cog into the space 
>> between dropout and cog (at the other extreme).  But it still slipped 
>> constantly at all settings in between those extremes.  Again, every other 
>> gear combination is fine, smooth shifting, no skipping even under heavy 
>> load.  Teeth on all cogs of the freewheel and the big chainring (both 
>> original, I believe) look almost new, and I replaced the chain, so that’s 
>> new, too.  What am I missing?  I thought about the chain, but why would the 
>> bike perform flawlessly in every other gear, even under heavy load?
>>
>>  
>>
>> Many thanks for any ideas.
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>  
>> --
>>  
>> 
>>
>> This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
>> addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
>> confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
>> email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
>> copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
>> If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 
>> 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any 
>> email) and any printout thereof.
>>
>> Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
>> professional qualifications will be provided upon request.
>> 
>> ==
>>  
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea

[Sean Cleary]

I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the event 
someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer stops: 
http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
 Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist approach.  

An additional bonus of riding a Rivendell is that, in my experience, most 
people view the bike as being really old and likely, less valuable. Your 
mileage may vary, however.

Sean 


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[RBW] Re: OT: Perspective: Typewriter Art

[Ron Mc]

yeah, that's a lot better than the nude that came off just about every 
Basic terminal in the 70s

On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:47:10 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Wow. Just wow.
> http://sfglobe.com/?id=12535&src=share_fb_new_12535
>
> Riv content: quality steel used in wondrous ways to express and enjoy life.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

I have the same experience as Steve P:  my Strada's batteries seem to last 
a year.  I replace both (transmitter and receiver) at the same time, though 
it's likely I don't need to.

On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:14:56 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 09/16/2014 06:53 AM, Eric Platt wrote: 
> > 
> > As to battery strength, hard to say for certain.  Neither of the 
> > wireless units I tried lasted more than a couple of months.  It is 
> > possible the battery was weak by the second month.  Unsure of actual 
> > reliability of wireless computer batteries. 
>
> I have two Cateye wireless units currently in service, a Micro Wireless 
> and a Strada.  In both cases, the batteries seem to last about a year. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] WTT/WTB - Pauls Brakes for your Marks Rack or Cambium - WTB Tan Medium Shop Sack

['jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Tim,
For sure two struts to mid fork fork braze ons and the diving board...although 
I DO have top of the fork mounting bolts too and have been considering trying 
the 4 strut boogie. 

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 09/16/2014 06:53 AM, Eric Platt wrote:


As to battery strength, hard to say for certain.  Neither of the 
wireless units I tried lasted more than a couple of months.  It is 
possible the battery was weak by the second month.  Unsure of actual 
reliability of wireless computer batteries.


I have two Cateye wireless units currently in service, a Micro Wireless 
and a Strada.  In both cases, the batteries seem to last about a year.



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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Eric Platt]

Wasn't speaking of generator lights.  Specifically battery lights. Mainly
lights that can and/or do flash.  It happened with a Niterider Mako that
has a constant flashing red side light and also with a Cateye light that
was set to flashing.

Have also discovered a number of areas in the Twin Cities where there is
outside interference that causes problems with the sensor.  Other folks use
wireless, so it is obviously not an issue for all.

As to battery strength, hard to say for certain.  Neither of the wireless
units I tried lasted more than a couple of months.  It is possible the
battery was weak by the second month.  Unsure of actual reliability of
wireless computer batteries.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:

> I read a lot about interfere with wireless cyclocomputers from generator
> lights but I don't see it. Granted, I only use two wireless systems now
> (Cateye and the optional Garmin Speed/Cadence sensor) but across all my
> bikes with generator hubs (Schmidt, SP & Shimano), I've never had an
> interference issue. What I have observed is that my cyclocomputers
> occasionally go out but those instances are correlated with areas I ride
> through rather than proximity my dynamo hubs. Have those who have
> interference use Cateye with verified-good batteries?
>
>
> On Monday, September 15, 2014 8:35:29 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:
>>
>> I'm a wired Cateye person.  Velo 8 and Velo 9 on two bikes, The Same
>> Hillborne has an older model.  Why wired?  Am used to them.  Don't have to
>> worry if adding a battery light to the bike.  And when I tried a a couple
>> of wireless models had issues with them.  Mainly unreliable readings due to
>> other apparent transmitters near where I was riding.
>>
>> Eric Platt
>> St. Paul, MN
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 6:41 PM, Jim Bronson  wrote:
>>
>>> I picked up a wireless unit at Performance Bike recently for 19.99.
>>> Axiom brand.  It seems to do it's duties well, can't say i have any
>>> complaints about it.  Good value for the money.
>>> On Sep 14, 2014 11:22 PM, "Neil"  wrote:
>>>
 Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike
 computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the
 like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless,
 and a small, modest screen.

 Cheers,

 Neil

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

I have a Strada wireless and (once so far) had the same experience.  Wish I 
had taken a photo.  Details here:  
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/06/they-often-call-me-speedoleaving-the-bike-lane/


On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:24:02 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> I use the Cateye Strada too. It works well for me, except one tiny 
> thing: there are a few lights, not many, where if I look down while 
> I'm standing waiting for a green I discover I'm riding at 65 mph 
> according to the computer. I'm not sure what's going on. 
>
> On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Eric Norris  > wrote: 
> > I’ve had great luck with this one: 
> > 
> > http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD300W/ 
> > 
> > --Eric Norris 
> > campyo...@me.com  
> > www.campyonly.com 
> > campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
> > 
> > On Sep 14, 2014, at 8:39 PM, Neil > 
> wrote: 
> > 
> > Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
> > computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
> > like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
> and 
> > a small, modest screen. 
> > 
> > Cheers, 
> > 
> > Neil 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson 
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>

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