[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Joe Bernard]

I don't think these shifters from Riv are long for this world. I had assumed 
they operated similarly to Silvers with the clickety-ratchet, but y'all are 
getting specific indexed clicks. That's like trying to shift a Suntour derailer 
with Shimano index..not gonna work. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: "Biketinkers Union" patches

[Philip Williamson]

Biketinkers Patch - UPDATE - I'm mailing out the patches today. I was very 
excited to get the Big Envelope today, and extra-pleased that Walter 
included a couple of the Snow Viking patches I drew for him. 

I pre-addressed all the envelopes over the last several evenings, so you 
should get your shipping notices soon. 
Thanks for joining up! I'm queuing up some Dropkick Murphys 
 union songs for the packing operation. :^)

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 4:22:14 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I'm making my first "Biketinker" patches, with Walter at Falls Creek 
> Outfitters. He's going to tweak that R, and they'll be ready to ship in a 
> couple weeks. If you'd like to get a couple, they're $5 each over on my 
> Etsy shop. 
>
> These first ones are a Sheldon tribute, since he started a lot more people 
> than me down the path of wrenching on bikes, make mistakes, and sometimes 
> create new things. He was a true originator, and even today, if you need 
> esoteric bike information, "Ask And Sheldon Has The Answer." 
>  
>
> https://www.etsy.com/listing/264180515/325-biketinkers-union-patch-pre-order
>
>
> 
>
> Many thanks!
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[stonehog]

I ride dyno hubs so I never have to think/worry/bother with lighting.  I 
never have to charge anything.  I never have to carry something extra.  I 
can go on a five-minute run to the store, or a 30-hour brevet through the 
dark countryside.  Haven't worried about lights for going on 4 or 5 years 
now.  It's just simple.  I also get a smug sense of satisfaction that I'm 
providing the power.  That's technically and socially cool.  

I also have a lot of options with high-quality lights that I don't yet have 
with battery powered lights.  Lights that direct the beam where it needs to 
go - not in other road/trail users eyes.

***warning - rant - look away***  It seems like I am constantly being 
blinded these days on my commute on the Burke Gilman by people who now have 
lights that should be used for cave exploration or riding 40mph through the 
woods. Then there are the folks that somehow manage to see in front of them 
with a B - l - I - N - k - I - n - G front light.  On a trail only used by 
walkers and bikers.  What - are they worried that I won't see them and run 
into them head on?  Wow.  This isn't even just selfish, or extra cautious. 
 This is getting to the point of extremely dangerous.  Between the lights, 
and the helmets, and the vests, and the airbag neck gaiters, is this just a 
giant conspiracy to end "the ride"?
*** ok - feel better now ***

Perhaps I just need to find a welding goggle that electronically cancels 
blinking lights and mutes all ridiculous blinding beams.  It may be the 
only way to fight the continued onslaught of "*stupid-dangerous lights".

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA

* my term and my opinion

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:52:51 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all retro-grouches 
> here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. Friction shifting will 
> never die so long as I live. But I honestly think that technology has left 
> dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>
>
> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b
>
>
> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last 
> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if 
> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at 
> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from 
> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>
>
> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 575 to 720 grams and cost from 
> $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the Zendure weigh less and cost less 
> than a dynohub. They also power more stuff (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the 
> big one) than a dynohub. They provide power for as long as a mortal can 
> ride and don't require a special wheel.
>
>
> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>
>
> Doug
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Daniel Jackson]

Bill,

How do you know the geo chart on the Hunq page is effective and not actual?

Thanks,
D.

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 11:36:05 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The Geo Chart is on the Hunqapillar page.  A 58cm Hunqapillar has a 60cm 
> effective top tube length.  A 62cm Hunqapillar has a 62.5 cm effective top 
> tube length.  Effective top tube length is the horizontal distance from the 
> point that marks the center of the headtube and top tube, extending 
> horizontally to the point where that line intersects the center of the seat 
> tube.  
>
> To illustrate the difference between effective top tube length and actual 
> top tube length, you could consult the drawings on the Hillborne page.  The 
> 62cm Hillborne, for example, has a 61.5 cm effective top tube and a 59.74cm 
> actual top tube.  The 58cm Hillborne has a 59cm top tube and a 57.31 cm 
> actual top tube.  So, the Hunqapillar is exactly 1cm longer than the 
> Hillborne in a given size.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 5:11:36 AM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 
>> 58 and 62 Hunqapillars?
>>
>> Thanks much. 
>> D. 
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Riv-ish Parts

[David Banzer]

I'll take the Soma stem. On mobile and can't reply offlist. My email address is 
daban...@gmail.com. 
David

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/30/2016 01:41 PM, Wayne Naha wrote:
I'm having the same problem with shifting on my Clem.  I've only used 
friction shifting on my 5 speed freewheel equipped bike.  That was no 
problem to shift.  Then I had an indexed shifter on a 7 speed bike, 
and that was great, too.  I could go back and forth between the two 
effortlessly.  But now friction shifting 8 speeds is more 
problematical.  I figured that it was a matter of needing practice, 
but maybe there's more to it.


I found that to be true.  Friction shifting 7 Hyperglide is pretty 
easy.  I found it got appreciably harder with 8, greater likelihood of 
ghost shifting on startup after having downshifted for a light.


I then, over the course of several years learned some shifting 
techniques that made accurate hyperglide friction shifting more reliable 
(very counter previous practice - making sure to shift under load, for 
example) and then did an experiment and revisited the concept.  I 
customized an 8 speed 12-32 into a 13-32 and swapped in place of the 
13-30 7 speed.  I discovered that it was mostly the same, but at the top 
end, say 2nd to 4th position, it was noticeably more difficult to shift 
accurately vs the 7.


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[RBW] Re: My CLEM finally built

[WETH]

Lovely bike. Glad to learn its working well.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[iamkeith]

Oops. Looks like I was posting from my phone at the same time as garth , so 
that was  confusing.  We're saying the same thing.

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[RBW] Re: FS: merino wool items

['joe kelly' via RBW Owners Bunch]

bump again with hew prices. feel free to make an offer.

On Sunday, January 24, 2016 at 8:46:28 PM UTC-5, joe kelly wrote:
>
> hi 
> i am selling the following items:
> -MUSA long sleeve merino wool t shirt in slate blue size large. i wore 
> this a few times but i dont like the color. size large but fits tight. 25
> -Merino Skins mens XL short sleeve 100% merino t-shirt. worn a couple 
> times. 35
> -Merino Skins mens XL long sleeve t-shirt.also worn only a couple of 
> times. 25
> -Merino Skins mens L long johns. only worn a couple of times. 35
> -MUSA railroad shirt L. this is from the original run, it looks like a 
> chambray shirt. new never worn. i bought one and liked it so much i bought 
> two more but i only alternated between two and never wore this one. i cant 
> currently fit in this size so off if goes. these are really nice shirts.  70
>
> all items have been through washer and dryer cycle( except railroad shirt 
> its brand new), so expect them to have already shrunk as much as they 
> normally would. the merino skins shirts and the musa shirt are cut tight 
> fit like a jersey and not cut for overweight figures. long johns fit 
> normal.  Railroad shirt fits normal.
> all prices include shipping
> feel free to ask questions and for pics
> thanks
> joe kelly
> columbus ohio
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/30/2016 01:16 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Yes, Zendure is made in China but they were designed in the USA as a 
Kickstarter. They have proven to be quite reliable, definitely more 
than a few steps ahead of the pack. The Shutter Precision dynamos that 
everyone is raving about are made in Taiwan.


Taiwan != China



Zendures can be run over by a car with no damage and none have burst 
into flames as some have feared. My example was the 2nd Gen A3: 
10,000mAh with two USB ports for only $37 and weighing 204 grams. Not 
exactly a car battery. No, I'm not in league with Zendure and I get 
nothing from them. Just saying...technology marches on. Even dyno 
systems benefit from a battery so that the lights, etc. can run when 
the bike is stopped.




It's not done with batteries, actually.  Standlights run off capacitors.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Eric Norris]

Uh … yeah, it will. There’s the SineWave charger, available as an aftermarket 
item, and the B Luxos light, which has as an option a USB charging port built 
into its remote switch.

Some dynos may struggle to run the lights *and* the USB charger at the same 
time, but the workaround there is to charge stuff during the day while your 
lights are off.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 6:55 AM, Doug Williams  wrote:
> 
> But if you want to also charge your phone/GPS and your GoPro...a dyno won't 
> handle that.

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[RBW] Re: favorite mixed terrain tires, winter edition

[Mike Shaljian]

Schwalbe Big One if we're talking pavement and gravel. It is like a big, plush 
and seemingly tough enough Compass tire. Just like Jan Heine advises with the 
Rat Trap pass, they are very sensitive to pressure and can collapse in corners 
and handle weird if the pressure is too low. When it's dialed in just right (25 
rear/23 front for me), they are amazing. Something for you Clementiners to 
consider!

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Bill Lindsay]

The Geo Chart is on the Hunqapillar page.  A 58cm Hunqapillar has a 60cm 
effective top tube length.  A 62cm Hunqapillar has a 62.5 cm effective top 
tube length.  Effective top tube length is the horizontal distance from the 
point that marks the center of the headtube and top tube, extending 
horizontally to the point where that line intersects the center of the seat 
tube.  

To illustrate the difference between effective top tube length and actual 
top tube length, you could consult the drawings on the Hillborne page.  The 
62cm Hillborne, for example, has a 61.5 cm effective top tube and a 59.74cm 
actual top tube.  The 58cm Hillborne has a 59cm top tube and a 57.31 cm 
actual top tube.  So, the Hunqapillar is exactly 1cm longer than the 
Hillborne in a given size.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 5:11:36 AM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 
> 58 and 62 Hunqapillars?
>
> Thanks much. 
> D. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So back to the original question, I used an Edulux I for years and thought it 
was perfect. A few years ago I tried the Edulux II and its much wider beam was 
my new standard of perfect. Lately I mated a Luxos U to an SP hub that allows 
me to charge my phone during the day and has a handlebar switch, and an 
amazingly wide and consistent beam. The Edulux now seem adequate but less than 
ideal. I appreciate the SP hub for its performance, price, and simple light 
attachment compared to Son.

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Julian]

Doug, 

I commute, and the "it's there, no worries" aspect of dynohubs cannot be 
overstated. 

I also go on multi-day tours, self-supported, and in that case in addition 
to providing light at night the dynohub charges a battery pack during the 
day so that phone, GPS, camera, tablet, Kindle (all wonderful 
battery-powered gizmos) can be charged easily without having to worry about 
plugging in. No hunting for outlets in cafes or bathrooms, no sitting with 
your plugged-in gizmo for an hour in a bathroom waiting for a half charge 
(or the battery pack) ... That's great! 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 6:52:51 PM UTC-6, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all retro-grouches 
> here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. Friction shifting will 
> never die so long as I live. But I honestly think that technology has left 
> dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>
>
> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b
>
>
> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last 
> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if 
> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at 
> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from 
> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>
>
> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 575 to 720 grams and cost from 
> $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the Zendure weigh less and cost less 
> than a dynohub. They also power more stuff (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the 
> big one) than a dynohub. They provide power for as long as a mortal can 
> ride and don't require a special wheel.
>
>
> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>
>
> Doug
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Matt B.]

They are listed on the website but i remember hearing those numbers are old 
and no longer correct, or that they are 'actual' and not horizontal 
measurements, so the effective TT's are actually longer than shown.  


On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:15:41 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
> They're listed on the riv Hunq frame page . 
>
> On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:11:36 AM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 
>> 58 and 62 Hunqapillars?
>>
>> Thanks much. 
>> D. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[iamkeith]

I don't know for sure either , but my recollection is the opposite:  the tables 
for the  older models show the actual length , while the newer ones like the 
hunq with the 6 degree slope list the effective length.  Worth a call to 
confirm.

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[RBW] Re: cycling shoes

['peech1...@yahoo.com' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have a pair and like them.  They are well made and comfortable.  They 
grip the pedal well.  Tim Petersen

On Monday, January 25, 2016 at 1:49:50 PM UTC-6, Bruce Baker wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any experience with these cycling shoes??
>
> http://cycleurdeluxe.com/
> Thanks,
> Bruce
>

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[RBW] Best off road dynamo light?

[Patrick Moore]

I've talked before about this, but I'd welcome further information to
answer the question below, which I've not specifically asked before.

While the Supernova E3 Triple 2 (weird name!) I ordered remains on
backorder, I have time to consider more closely the best light for my *off
road* riding needs. The Supernova E3 Triple 2 was recommended to me as the
brightest possible dynamo light, and for that reason the best for off road
use. But looking again at PJW's beam patterns, I'm not sure that the
Edeluxe II might not be better.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

The light would be used on dirt surfaces, which include (a) irrigation
ditch roads and doubletrack with tricky, deepish sand and (b) tightly
winding, narrow , root-filled and tree-obstructed ditch paths enclosed by
trees -- with nearby dropoffs into irrigation ditches. Some sections of
these narrow ditch paths are confined and tricky enough that I walk them
even in daylight.

Note that (1) I have very bad night vision and (2) find the Edeluxe I
augmented by a moderately bright battery light (MiNewt on 250 lumen Medium
or a cheaper AA light on High) sufficient for the ditch roads, but the
combo would not suffice to allow me to ride the narrow ditch trails with
confidence; I daresay that the E I + the MN on 350 lumen high might.

My needs are, in order of importance:

1. Best illumination for the off road riding described above. I want a
light that *needs no augmentation with a second light.*

2. All-round durability and reliability; would prefer -- but don't insist
on -- metal instead of plastic.

3. Compatibility with other mfrs' dynohubs and tail lights.

4. Design and looks.

5. That it not blind oncoming traffic, particularly oncoming bicyclists
(not too worried about cars -- long ago I owned one of NR's first HID
systems).

I know, you are probably thinking that this self-referential egoist needs
to think about other cyclists, but the fact is that I don't meet very many
oncoming cyclists when riding at night the bikes that this light is meant
for.

Note: I will continue as always to bring a secondary, battery light, for
use at stoplights and for roadside stops, but again, I want my main dynamo
light bright enough when used alone.

Thanks!


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**
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I can't help but wonder what corners have been cut and/or sacrifices made 
to be able to sell a 10Ah battery for $37. For example, I'm pretty sure 
these are from China and I would be curious about the environmental and 
societal impact of benefitting from paying only $37 for such a battery. 
Yeah, 1st world problems...


On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 9:19:03 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> Bill and Joe,
>
>
> Yes, of course. I didn’t mean to demean dynohubs and certainly not the 
> people who use them. My point is that just a few years ago dynohubs were 
> the clear winner for anyone doing longer rides. But batteries are really 
> getting stronger, cheaper, and lighter. Like 10,000mAh with two USB ports 
> for only $37 and weighing 204 grams. That’s hard for a dyno to beat now and 
> batteries are getting better all the time. In contrast, unless there is 
> some breakthrough, dynohub technology is pretty much as good as it will 
> ever be.
>
>
> Doug
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 6:05:58 PM UTC-8, joe b. wrote:
>>
>> Hi Doug,
>>
>> Re: why some still use dynamo hubs
>>
>> Gone are the days when dynamo hubs were "
>> ​
>> 575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426." Shutter Precision's hubs 
>> are sub-400g and around $120. Don't forget to subtract the weight of a 
>> front hub, too. The weight penalty for a dyno is a measly 250g or so these 
>> days. And, the head and tail lights are superlight!
>>
>> How much do all those batteries weigh again? 
>>
>> But, more to your question, it's mostly convenience and range anxiety for 
>> me. I already have enough gadgets to recharge. Definitely don't need 
>> four(!) more. And, even though I rarely do it any more, I still enjoy 
>> riding through the night without worrying that one of my batteries will 
>> give out. 
>>
>> I'm glad to know about the new battery options, though. Sounds like 
>> they've gotten better!
>>
>> Best,
>> joe
>> pdx or
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 4:52 PM, Doug Williams  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all 
>>> retro-grouches here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. 
>>> Friction shifting will never die so long as I live. But I honestly think 
>>> that technology has left dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>>>
>>>
>>> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
>>> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
>>> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b
>>>
>>>
>>> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last 
>>> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if 
>>> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at 
>>> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
>>> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
>>> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from 
>>> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
>>> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
>>> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
>>> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
>>> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>>>
>>>
>>> ​​
>>> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 
>>> ​​
>>> 575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the 
>>> Zendure weigh less and cost less than a dynohub. They also power more stuff 
>>> (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the big one) than a dynohub. They provide power 
>>> for as long as a mortal can ride and don't require a special wheel.
>>>
>>>
>>> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>>
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Doug Williams]

Yes, Zendure is made in China but they were designed in the USA as a 
Kickstarter. They have proven to be quite reliable, definitely more than a 
few steps ahead of the pack. The Shutter Precision dynamos that everyone is 
raving about are made in Taiwan.

Zendures can be run over by a car with no damage and none have burst into 
flames as some have feared. My example was the 2nd Gen A3: 10,000mAh with 
two USB ports for only $37 and weighing 204 grams. Not exactly a car 
battery. No, I'm not in league with Zendure and I get nothing from them. 
Just saying...technology marches on. Even dyno systems benefit from a 
battery so that the lights, etc. can run when the bike is stopped.

Doug

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-8, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:
>
> I can't help but wonder what corners have been cut and/or sacrifices made 
> to be able to sell a 10Ah battery for $37. For example, I'm pretty sure 
> these are from China and I would be curious about the environmental and 
> societal impact of benefitting from paying only $37 for such a battery. 
> Yeah, 1st world problems...
>
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 9:19:03 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>>
>> Bill and Joe,
>>
>>
>> Yes, of course. I didn’t mean to demean dynohubs and certainly not the 
>> people who use them. My point is that just a few years ago dynohubs were 
>> the clear winner for anyone doing longer rides. But batteries are really 
>> getting stronger, cheaper, and lighter. Like 10,000mAh with two USB ports 
>> for only $37 and weighing 204 grams. That’s hard for a dyno to beat now and 
>> batteries are getting better all the time. In contrast, unless there is 
>> some breakthrough, dynohub technology is pretty much as good as it will 
>> ever be.
>>
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 6:05:58 PM UTC-8, joe b. wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Doug,
>>>
>>> Re: why some still use dynamo hubs
>>>
>>> Gone are the days when dynamo hubs were "
>>> ​
>>> 575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426." Shutter Precision's hubs 
>>> are sub-400g and around $120. Don't forget to subtract the weight of a 
>>> front hub, too. The weight penalty for a dyno is a measly 250g or so these 
>>> days. And, the head and tail lights are superlight!
>>>
>>> How much do all those batteries weigh again? 
>>>
>>> But, more to your question, it's mostly convenience and range anxiety 
>>> for me. I already have enough gadgets to recharge. Definitely don't need 
>>> four(!) more. And, even though I rarely do it any more, I still enjoy 
>>> riding through the night without worrying that one of my batteries will 
>>> give out. 
>>>
>>> I'm glad to know about the new battery options, though. Sounds like 
>>> they've gotten better!
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> joe
>>> pdx or
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 29, 2016 at 4:52 PM, Doug Williams  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all 
 retro-grouches here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. 
 Friction shifting will never die so long as I live. But I honestly think 
 that technology has left dynohubs in the dustbin of history.


 I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
 Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
 http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b


 The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries 
 last plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). 
 But 
 if I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights 
 at 
 high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
 bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
 Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights 
 from 
 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
 thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
 (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
 for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
 Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.


 ​​
 Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 
 ​​
 575 to 720 grams and cost from $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the 
 Zendure weigh less and cost less than a dynohub. They also power more 
 stuff 
 (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the big one) than a dynohub. They provide power 
 for as long as a mortal can ride and don't require a special wheel.


 So…why do we still ride dynohubs?


 Doug


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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Wayne Naha]

I'm having the same problem with shifting on my Clem.  I've only used 
friction shifting on my 5 speed freewheel equipped bike.  That was no 
problem to shift.  Then I had an indexed shifter on a 7 speed bike, and 
that was great, too.  I could go back and forth between the two 
effortlessly.  But now friction shifting 8 speeds is more problematical.  I 
figured that it was a matter of needing practice, but maybe there's more to 
it.

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 1:58:19 AM UTC-5, El Sapo wrote:
>
> I don't understand why the shifting was set up like it was. It's not a 
> good thing. I've used friction exclusively and it's fine. What doesn't work 
> is the clicks. I get surprise shifting and slipping gears. the click is a 
> fixed point and it's usually the wrong setting. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Patrick Moore]

Regarding the Edeluxe II: has anyone used it off road? I have very poor
night vision, and I've used the E I on our local dirt roads supplemented by
a good battery light; not so much for width of beam as for brightness.

I wonder how the E II compares to the brighter Supernovas, *for off road
use?*

The E II must indeed be bright if it is significantly better than the E I,
which I've used for several years and find excellent.

On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 9:45 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> So back to the original question, I used an Edulux I for years and thought
> it was perfect. A few years ago I tried the Edulux II and its much wider
> beam was my new standard of perfect. Lately I mated a Luxos U to an SP hub
> that allows me to charge my phone during the day and has a handlebar
> switch, and an amazingly wide and consistent beam. The Edulux now seem
> adequate but less than ideal. I appreciate the SP hub for its performance,
> price, and simple light attachment compared to Son.
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] FS: Riv-ish Parts

[Eric Norris]

Cleaning out the bike room a bit. All prices include shipping in the CONUS.

On One Midge Bars, 31.8 clamp diameter $25

Nitto Noodle Bars, 26.0 clamp diameter, 46Cm width $50

Soma seatpost, 27.2 diameter, extra long, with insertion marks $25

Soma threadless stem, fits 1 1/8” steerer, 25.4 clamp diameter with 4-bolt 
faceplate, 110cm length $20

B Top Line Plus taillight with standlight, for dyno systems $35

Photos of everything here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/albums/72157661784257364 

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Lungimsam]

It's also cool to just leave the light on all the time so you just get on 
the bike and go and its always on. Some people just leave it on. 

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[RBW] Hunq Effective TT

[Daniel Jackson]

Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 58 and 
62 Hunqapillars?

Thanks much. 
D. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Garth]

As to the correctness of them I cannot say, but Riv has in the past always 
stated in their charts that TT lengths listed were theoretical on the 6 
degree models. 



On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:33:39 AM UTC-5, Matt B. wrote:
>
> They are listed on the website but i remember hearing those numbers are 
> old and no longer correct, or that they are 'actual' and not horizontal 
> measurements, so the effective TT's are actually longer than shown.  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Garth]

Okay, I recall I emailed Keven about this long ago for a 62cm. He stated 
the effective TT was 64.5cm .  I did not follow up and ask him if the 
front-center was then longer than stated also or not. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Garth]

They're listed on the riv Hunq frame page . 

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:11:36 AM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anybody know where to find info on the effective top tube lengths of the 
> 58 and 62 Hunqapillars?
>
> Thanks much. 
> D. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/30/2016 09:21 AM, Lungimsam wrote:
It's also cool to just leave the light on all the time so you just get 
on the bike and go and its always on. Some people just leave it on.




Cooler still just to have the option, so you can make the choice by 
feeling and assessment of visibility and conditions rather than having 
to enter into elaborate calculations about the probable run time 
remaining on your battery charge, just exactly when it was that you last 
charged it and how long had you used it for last, and how cold was it 
out and by how much would that reduce the remaining charge, all done 
without benefit of any kind of instrumentation to let you know how much 
charge was remaining.


Carefree whimsy vs balancing a dozen eels standing on their tails: 
priceless.


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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Doug Williams]

I agree there, and I would want that "no worries" aspect for my lights, 
just leaving them on day and night. But the other problem with dyno's is 
limited output. If you are only going to run a LED light or two, no 
problem. But if you want to also charge your phone/GPS and your GoPro...a 
dyno won't handle that. I can select a battery that will power everything 
for as long as I like and still be as light as a dyno. If a dyno could 
power all my toys at once, I would be sold. If a dyno could run my lights 
continuously AND slowly charge a small battery pack at the same time (so I 
could rotate two packs for my other toys), I would be sold.

Again, I don't mean to be contentious, if there is such a dyno with higher 
output, please point me to it. I would gladly push a little more weight and 
drag to get enough output to run continuous lights and charge my phone at 
the same time. But the last thing I want is for my phone/navigation/GPS to 
give out in the middle of the night. I'm old, senile, and I easily become 
lost. So simultaneous lights AND navigation are important to me. But yeah, 
I don't need to run the GoPro, that's just for fun.

Doug

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 5:32:12 AM UTC-8, Julian wrote:
>
> Doug, 
>
> I commute, and the "it's there, no worries" aspect of dynohubs cannot be 
> overstated. 
>
> I also go on multi-day tours, self-supported, and in that case in addition 
> to providing light at night the dynohub charges a battery pack during the 
> day so that phone, GPS, camera, tablet, Kindle (all wonderful 
> battery-powered gizmos) can be charged easily without having to worry about 
> plugging in. No hunting for outlets in cafes or bathrooms, no sitting with 
> your plugged-in gizmo for an hour in a bathroom waiting for a half charge 
> (or the battery pack) ... That's great! 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 6:52:51 PM UTC-6, Doug Williams wrote:
>>
>> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all retro-grouches 
>> here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. Friction shifting will 
>> never die so long as I live. But I honestly think that technology has left 
>> dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>>
>>
>> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
>> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
>> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b
>>
>>
>> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last 
>> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if 
>> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at 
>> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
>> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
>> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from 
>> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
>> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
>> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
>> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
>> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>>
>>
>> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 575 to 720 grams and cost from 
>> $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the Zendure weigh less and cost less 
>> than a dynohub. They also power more stuff (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the 
>> big one) than a dynohub. They provide power for as long as a mortal can 
>> ride and don't require a special wheel.
>>
>>
>> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>>
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Doug Williams]

Hmmm...Since Zendure battery packs and some others have a "charge through 
capability" (they will power stuff while being charged themselves)...maybe 
what I need is a Zendure hooked up to a dynohub. The Zendure would power 
all the lights, phone, toys, etc. and the dyno would recharge the Zendure. 
I suppose that the system would run a small deficit (because the dyno 
couldn't quite keep up) and the Zendure would eventually need to be plugged 
in...but that would take a LONG time. Has anyone run something like that?

Doug

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 6:55:26 AM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> I agree there, and I would want that "no worries" aspect for my lights, 
> just leaving them on day and night. But the other problem with dyno's is 
> limited output. If you are only going to run a LED light or two, no 
> problem. But if you want to also charge your phone/GPS and your GoPro...a 
> dyno won't handle that. I can select a battery that will power everything 
> for as long as I like and still be as light as a dyno. If a dyno could 
> power all my toys at once, I would be sold. If a dyno could run my lights 
> continuously AND slowly charge a small battery pack at the same time (so I 
> could rotate two packs for my other toys), I would be sold.
>
> Again, I don't mean to be contentious, if there is such a dyno with higher 
> output, please point me to it. I would gladly push a little more weight and 
> drag to get enough output to run continuous lights and charge my phone at 
> the same time. But the last thing I want is for my phone/navigation/GPS to 
> give out in the middle of the night. I'm old, senile, and I easily become 
> lost. So simultaneous lights AND navigation are important to me. But yeah, 
> I don't need to run the GoPro, that's just for fun.
>
> Doug
>
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/30/2016 09:55 AM, Doug Williams wrote:
I agree there, and I would want that "no worries" aspect for my 
lights, just leaving them on day and night. But the other problem with 
dyno's is limited output. If you are only going to run a LED light or 
two, no problem. But if you want to also charge your phone/GPS and 
your GoPro...a dyno won't handle that. I can select a battery that 
will power everything for as long as I like and still be as light as a 
dyno. If a dyno could power all my toys at once, I would be sold. If a 
dyno could run my lights continuously AND slowly charge a small 
battery pack at the same time (so I could rotate two packs for my 
other toys), I would be sold.


Again, I don't mean to be contentious, if there is such a dyno with 
higher output, please point me to it. I would gladly push a little 
more weight and drag to get enough output to run continuous lights and 
charge my phone at the same time. But the last thing I want is for my 
phone/navigation/GPS to give out in the middle of the night. I'm old, 
senile, and I easily become lost. So simultaneous lights AND 
navigation are important to me. But yeah, I don't need to run the 
GoPro, that's just for fun.


This is well beyond the design brief for a self-powered bicycle lighting 
system.


If you want lots of power for your "toys" go ahead, use whatever system 
you like.  Back in 1973 I saw a guy riding Syracuse-Rome-Syracuse with a 
car battery strapped onto a Pletcher carrier to power a hand-held TV 
camera so he could film the event. If that's your thing, have at it.



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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Daniel Jackson]

Thanks folks. As usual, this list answers all. 

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 5:20:08 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Daniel, it's stated here on the geometry chart found on the Frames & Bikes 
> main page. It has become an assumed measurement in the industry because so 
> many frames have upsloping tubes now. No one cares what the actual 
> measurement is because it doesn't answer the question being asked. We need 
> to know virtual tt lengths.
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/htmlview
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: "Biketinkers Union" patches

[cyclotourist]

And a good time was had by all!

On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Biketinkers Patch - UPDATE - I'm mailing out the patches today. I was very
> excited to get the Big Envelope today, and extra-pleased that Walter
> included a couple of the Snow Viking patches I drew for him.
>
> I pre-addressed all the envelopes over the last several evenings, so you
> should get your shipping notices soon.
> Thanks for joining up! I'm queuing up some Dropkick Murphys
>  union songs for the packing operation. :^)
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
> On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 4:22:14 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
>> I'm making my first "Biketinker" patches, with Walter at Falls Creek
>> Outfitters. He's going to tweak that R, and they'll be ready to ship in a
>> couple weeks. If you'd like to get a couple, they're $5 each over on my
>> Etsy shop.
>>
>> These first ones are a Sheldon tribute, since he started a lot more
>> people than me down the path of wrenching on bikes, make mistakes, and
>> sometimes create new things. He was a true originator, and even today, if
>> you need esoteric bike information, "Ask And Sheldon Has The Answer."
>>
>>
>> https://www.etsy.com/listing/264180515/325-biketinkers-union-patch-pre-order
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Many thanks!
>> Philip
>> www.biketinker.com
>>
>>
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Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Peter Adler]

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 8:45:10 AM UTC-8, Mojo wrote:
>
> Lately I mated a Luxos U to an SP hub that allows me to charge my phone 
> during the day and has a handlebar switch, and an amazingly wide and 
> consistent beam. The Edulux now seem adequate but less than ideal. I 
> appreciate the SP hub for its performance, price, and simple light 
> attachment compared to Son.


I started using the same combination nearly two years ago, and it's 
superlative. In the city, I've had drivers flash their high beams at me on 
the street, even when I'm using the lowbeams. I've certainly got the angle 
low enough; I suspect some of them are flashing not because they're 
blinded, but because they're spooked to see that bright a light coming from 
a bicycle.

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 10:16:55 AM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> Even dyno systems benefit from a battery so that the lights, etc. can run 
> when the bike is stopped.
>

Yes, and no. The Luxos U powers its standlight with a lithium battery, 
instead of the capacitor used in older standlight headlamp systems (and in 
generator taillights). A capacitor is fine for a standlight; it generally 
drains after 3-4 minutes, providing enough residual power to keep the 
headlight/taillight lit at a stoplight, after which the system recharges 
when the rider pedals away. B/Peter White says the battery is there to 
provide a filtered, even power supply to external devices attached to the 
USB charger.

Unfortunately, the battery makes the system much more difficult to 
troubleshoot. In September, a broken front brake bolt damaged something in 
my Luxos, as my rack assembly/light mounting sagged down. Because the 
battery got enough trickle charge from the hub to maintain a low level of 
power, it took me several weeks to figure out that the damage was to the 
Luxos, not to the SP generator. I could turn on the headlight and get a few 
minutes of light, and then it would shut itself off - often in dangerous 
situations. And the taillight never had enough juice to light after the 
incident. But since the headlight would turn on (at reduced light output), 
I kept flailing around swapping replaceable cables (generator to headlight, 
headlight to taillight) instead of blaming the headlight itself.

If the standlight worked off a capacitor, the capacitor would have drained 
in a few minutes - and that would have been that. As it was, I had to 
unplug the hub from the Luxos entirely, and run it for a week before the 
Luxos' battery drained completely. I then dug out the wussy Spanninga that 
the Luxos had replaced, and found that the hub was fine.

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 10:34:20 AM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Some dynos may struggle to run the lights *and* the USB charger at the 
> same time, but the workaround there is to charge stuff during the day while 
> your lights are off.
>

Exactly B's recommendation for the Luxos U.

Hub generators won't power anything more than a light because that's the 
purpose for which they're designed. If they put out more power, they'd fry 
out the lights. The fact that they can *also* power charging systems is an 
add-on to the existing infrastructure, in the same way that Internet 
service is an add-on to your cable provider's system, which is intended to 
pump the Home Shopping Network, UFC pay-per-view fights and Ryan Gosling 
movies into your house. The Internet is just an extra the cable company can 
toss onto the cable they've already installed, for which they can tack on 
an extra fee.

If you want to pawer *stuff*, you can use solar panels 
, with all the limiting considerations that 
go with them. They're available at a variety of different power output 
levels/voltages. As long as you're using a bike-powered generator, you're 
going to have to deal with the limitations designed into that generator: 
That its primary purpose is to power 6V lighting systems. At least, that's 
what most modern bottle/hub generators are designed to do.

Peter "horses for courses" Adler
Berkeley, CA/USA

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Tim Wood]

I thought that too Joe when I first saw them but shifting them is comfortable 
enough. I push and pull with me thumb and sometimes on the rear shifter I use 
my index finger from under the bar to push it up. 

The real issue is this shifting, it's starting to drive me nuts. Last night I 
went on a 2 hour spin through some local greenway paths and ended up finding 
some nice undulating forest trails that followed a little creek. The bike 
handled the swooping turns and uneven surfaces amazingly, it was so fun.  But, 
at one point I was descending and I could see a steep ramp approaching and knew 
I'd need to be in the small chainring (I was mid or higher up the cassette).  
Without even touching the rear shifter, only dropping down in the front, it 
started skipping and clunking and I couldn't get it back again and had to 
dismount part way up the climb. Annoying. 

I started thinking about it and wondered if the long chain stays played a roll 
in this scenario?  It's likely the rear shifter is to blame, it was probably 
one click away from being perfectly in line with the gear and when the chain 
went to the front ring, the new angle of the chain was enough to cause an 
alignment issue in the rear. But would the long stays and associated chain also 
contribute to this? Would the extra length exaggerate the angles?  Does the 
extra long chain affect shifting performance?  

All bitching and hypothesizing aside, it's not gonna stop me from riding again 
tonight! And neither is this relentless west coast rain. Once these kiddlings 
are in bed I'll be out there!

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[RBW] Re: Riv bike packing documentary

[Deacon Patrick]

Oh! THAT bike packing. I was thinking mud and mosquitos bikepacking. 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 4:05:21 PM UTC-7, Mitch Browne wrote:
>
>
> Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web 
> how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[Joe Bernard]

Daniel, it's stated here on the geometry chart found on the Frames & Bikes main 
page. It has become an assumed measurement in the industry because so many 
frames have upsloping tubes now. No one cares what the actual measurement is 
because it doesn't answer the question being asked. We need to know virtual tt 
lengths.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/htmlview

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[RBW] Re: Riv bike packing documentary

[eflayer]

google your friend:

https://vimeo.com/133708979

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 3:05:21 PM UTC-8, Mitch Browne wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web 
> how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.
>
> It involved cutting strips of card board the width of the box and then 
> inserting the strips in the frame triangle and other areas of the shipping 
> box to stiffen the sides and negate most unintentional crushing during 
> shipment.
>
> I looked on Riv's website, Blug, and searched this group but can't seem to 
> find it.
>
> I'll be shipping a Rivish mixte to a friend soon and that method seems 
> well worth trying.
>
> Can anyone point me to this information?
>
> Mitch Browne
> San Luis Obispo
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 45cm Clementine Frameset

[Wayne Naha]

Very nice!  I wish my wife would get excited about getting a nice bike so 
we could ride together.  But so far, not so much.  You two are lucky to 
share that.

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:10:12 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I got a call from Riv, saying there was one in blue available. Just called 
> them back and it should be on the way shortly!
> We'll have a pair of Clem/tines in our household.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 1:38:49 PM UTC-6, Irving wrote:
>>
>> This just popped up on the Riv Website: 
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-tine-45blu.htm
>>
>> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 10:17:46 AM UTC-8, Shawn Granton wrote:
>>>
>>> Rivelo is on winter break. John won't be back in the shop until Saturday 
>>> February 6.
>>> -Shawn
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 28, 2016 at 4:15:36 PM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:

 I did not. I assumed they just had completes, but certainly is worth a 
 call. I'll give them a ring.
 David
 Chicago

 On Thursday, January 28, 2016 at 6:06:42 PM UTC-6, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> Did you call Rivelo?



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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Joe Bernard]

Roll with the date night, brother. Ride tomorrow ;)

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Bob Ehrenbeck]

 

Another thing to consider with the Sunrace thumb shifter is that it may not 
work well with your particular brake lever if you want to use the 
Riv-preferred orientation. When I installed mine alongside a Shimano Deore 
T610 lever (which has its clamping screw to the *inside* of the bar), I 
found that the shift lever interfered with the brake lever's clamp (as 
shown in the photo below). When the shifter is moved farther forward to 
clear the clamp, it's then too far forward to operate with my thumb with my 
hand still on the grip area.





It was a simple fix to rotate the shifter 90 degrees and re-adjust the 
cable housing end:





We’ll see how this arrangement goes, once I finish with the build (I'm 
going with a 1x8 drivetrain). If it doesn't work out -- this, plus the 
shifting issues mentioned by others -- I’ll switch to a bar-end shifter.


Bob E

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Doug Williams]

Brian,

I'm certainly with you on the "blinding issue". But there are smartly 
designed battery lights as well. I have the Ixon Core battery powered 
lights made by Busch & Müller and there are a few others. It seems that the 
Germans have cornered the market on intelligently designed beam patterns. I 
think it is due to German legislation that we should copy here.

Doug


On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 12:24:42 PM UTC-8, stonehog wrote:
>
> I ride dyno hubs so I never have to think/worry/bother with lighting.  I 
> never have to charge anything.  I never have to carry something extra.  I 
> can go on a five-minute run to the store, or a 30-hour brevet through the 
> dark countryside.  Haven't worried about lights for going on 4 or 5 years 
> now.  It's just simple.  I also get a smug sense of satisfaction that I'm 
> providing the power.  That's technically and socially cool.  
>
> I also have a lot of options with high-quality lights that I don't yet 
> have with battery powered lights.  Lights that direct the beam where it 
> needs to go - not in other road/trail users eyes.
>
> ***warning - rant - look away***  It seems like I am constantly being 
> blinded these days on my commute on the Burke Gilman by people who now have 
> lights that should be used for cave exploration or riding 40mph through the 
> woods. Then there are the folks that somehow manage to see in front of them 
> with a B - l - I - N - k - I - n - G front light.  On a trail only used by 
> walkers and bikers.  What - are they worried that I won't see them and run 
> into them head on?  Wow.  This isn't even just selfish, or extra cautious. 
>  This is getting to the point of extremely dangerous.  Between the lights, 
> and the helmets, and the vests, and the airbag neck gaiters, is this just a 
> giant conspiracy to end "the ride"?
> *** ok - feel better now ***
>
> Perhaps I just need to find a welding goggle that electronically cancels 
> blinking lights and mutes all ridiculous blinding beams.  It may be the 
> only way to fight the continued onslaught of "*stupid-dangerous lights".
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
>
> * my term and my opinion
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:52:51 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:
>>
>> Warning: Heresy and Impiety follow! I know that we are all retro-grouches 
>> here and my AHH shifts 8-speed friction on Silver’s. Friction shifting will 
>> never die so long as I live. But I honestly think that technology has left 
>> dynohubs in the dustbin of history.
>>
>>
>> I run two Ixon Core battery powered (USB rechargeable) lights. Made by 
>> Busch & Müller; I got them from Peter White, see them here: 
>> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b
>>
>>
>> The light output and beam shape are both outstanding. The batteries last 
>> plenty long too (3 hours on high power and 15 hours on low power). But if 
>> I’m going on a REALLY long night ride and/or I want to run the lights at 
>> high-power for the whole ride, I just plug them into my Zendure USB power 
>> bank battery and I can charge my lights even when they are in use. The 
>> Zendure’s come in several sizes from 6,700mAh to 25,600mAh and weights from 
>> 136 grams to 725 grams (for the really ridiculously powered model). The 
>> thing is, even the small ones are enough to run my phone for navigation 
>> (Ride with GPS sucks power in navigation mode) and my lights at full power 
>> for much longer than I need. I keep the Zendure in my Sackville TrunkSack 
>> Small and the lights and bag are both mounted on my front Mark’s Rack.
>>
>>
>> Dyno hubs on Peter’s website weigh from 575 to 720 grams and cost from 
>> $257 to $426. USB battery banks like the Zendure weigh less and cost less 
>> than a dynohub. They also power more stuff (mostly 2 outputs but 4 on the 
>> big one) than a dynohub. They provide power for as long as a mortal can 
>> ride and don't require a special wheel.
>>
>>
>> So…why do we still ride dynohubs?
>>
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv bike packing documentary

[Mitch Browne]

Perfect,

This plus Emil's riv bike packing video should do the trick.

I cannot do this alone ;) Thanks.

On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 3:13 PM, eflayer  wrote:
> google your friend:
>
> https://vimeo.com/133708979
>
>
> On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 3:05:21 PM UTC-8, Mitch Browne wrote:
>>
>> Group,
>>
>> Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web
>> how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.
>>
>> It involved cutting strips of card board the width of the box and then
>> inserting the strips in the frame triangle and other areas of the shipping
>> box to stiffen the sides and negate most unintentional crushing during
>> shipment.
>>
>> I looked on Riv's website, Blug, and searched this group but can't seem to
>> find it.
>>
>> I'll be shipping a Rivish mixte to a friend soon and that method seems
>> well worth trying.
>>
>> Can anyone point me to this information?
>>
>> Mitch Browne
>> San Luis Obispo
>
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[RBW] Re: Riv bike packing documentary

[eflayer]

the group is here to provide just in time tech support.

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 3:05:21 PM UTC-8, Mitch Browne wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web 
> how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.
>
> It involved cutting strips of card board the width of the box and then 
> inserting the strips in the frame triangle and other areas of the shipping 
> box to stiffen the sides and negate most unintentional crushing during 
> shipment.
>
> I looked on Riv's website, Blug, and searched this group but can't seem to 
> find it.
>
> I'll be shipping a Rivish mixte to a friend soon and that method seems 
> well worth trying.
>
> Can anyone point me to this information?
>
> Mitch Browne
> San Luis Obispo
>

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Joe Bernard]

Get after it, son! I'm at work all weekend (care home, I stay for the 
duration), so no riding for me. Have fun in the rain!

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[RBW] Re: Riv bike packing documentary

[eflayer]

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 3:05:21 PM UTC-8, Mitch Browne wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web 
> how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.
>
> It involved cutting strips of card board the width of the box and then 
> inserting the strips in the frame triangle and other areas of the shipping 
> box to stiffen the sides and negate most unintentional crushing during 
> shipment.
>
> I looked on Riv's website, Blug, and searched this group but can't seem to 
> find it.
>
> I'll be shipping a Rivish mixte to a friend soon and that method seems 
> well worth trying.
>
> Can anyone point me to this information?
>
> Mitch Browne
> San Luis Obispo
>

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[RBW] Re: Shimano DH-3N72 Dyno Hub Light Recommendation

[Lungimsam]

As far as I have seen the Mark's has 4 strut eyelets, and a plate that 
hangs from the front of the rack with a hole in it.
The M18 has two strut eyelets only.

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Joe Bernard]

I'm a bit mystified by the thumbshifters being mounted inboard like that. It 
seems to me it would take some gymnastics to get your thumb/fingers over there. 
My Bike Friday has Silvers on Paul Thumbies mounted on the outside of V-O 
Porteur bars where it's simple to hit it with my thumb, fingers, or punt it 
with the base of my palm. Easy peasy!

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[RBW] Riv bike packing documentary

[Mitch Browne]

Group,

Several months back I believe a link was posted to a Riv video or web 
how-to for a new way of packing bikes for shipping.

It involved cutting strips of card board the width of the box and then 
inserting the strips in the frame triangle and other areas of the shipping 
box to stiffen the sides and negate most unintentional crushing during 
shipment.

I looked on Riv's website, Blug, and searched this group but can't seem to 
find it.

I'll be shipping a Rivish mixte to a friend soon and that method seems well 
worth trying.

Can anyone point me to this information?

Mitch Browne
San Luis Obispo

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[RBW] Re: Mid-Atlantic 2016 Snow

[islaysteve]

Yes, the snow piles around Kensington and Rockville are quite amazing.  Given 
the warm temps and sunshine predicted for the next four days or so, there 
should quite a bit of melting.  The sunny days are quite a nice break from the 
shoveling!
Steve

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Tim Wood]

Ya I will!! But now my wife is talking about a date night. Doesn't she know 
there is another woman in my life? Her name is Clem, she was conceived in 
California, born in Taiwan and has bolt ons from Japan. She's a little stout 
but I like 'em that way!

Care home eh Joe? That's a tough job, my wife does it. It takes a special 
person, good job. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: "Biketinkers Union" patches

[Patrick Shea]

Great news, Philip! Ever hear of The Thinking Feller's Union? I saw them at
The Independent in SF way back in the early '90s. Music to do good work by.

Cheers,
Patrick Shea

On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Philip Williamson <
philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Biketinkers Patch - UPDATE - I'm mailing out the patches today. I was very
> excited to get the Big Envelope today, and extra-pleased that Walter
> included a couple of the Snow Viking patches I drew for him.
>
> I pre-addressed all the envelopes over the last several evenings, so you
> should get your shipping notices soon.
> Thanks for joining up! I'm queuing up some Dropkick Murphys
>  union songs for the packing operation. :^)
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
> On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 4:22:14 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>> I'm making my first "Biketinker" patches, with Walter at Falls Creek
>> Outfitters. He's going to tweak that R, and they'll be ready to ship in a
>> couple weeks. If you'd like to get a couple, they're $5 each over on my
>> Etsy shop.
>>
>> These first ones are a Sheldon tribute, since he started a lot more
>> people than me down the path of wrenching on bikes, make mistakes, and
>> sometimes create new things. He was a true originator, and even today, if
>> you need esoteric bike information, "Ask And Sheldon Has The Answer."
>>
>>
>> https://www.etsy.com/listing/264180515/325-biketinkers-union-patch-pre-order
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Many thanks!
>> Philip
>> www.biketinker.com
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS Rivendell Saddlesack medium in olive

[Bruce Smitham]

Sackville bag is sold

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 3:40:30 PM UTC-8, Bruce Smitham wrote:
>
> For sale is my Rivendell Saddlesack medium in olive that was used a few 
> times. $150 shipped CONUS
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce in San Diego
>

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[RBW] Re: favorite mixed terrain tires, winter edition

[William deRosset]

Dear Neil,

Define "winter" in your neck of the woods.

For my winter riding on the Front Range of Colorado, that's -10degF (once 
or twice a winter) and  teens to mid 30's degF (very common) with a few 
days of well above freezing to help consolidate the snow into glare ice--or 
melt it off entirely. Little or no rain--a day or two of snow, then a week 
or so of dry sunny days. 

Rock n' Roads seem to do well in fresh snow and after a few days have gone 
by, and the roads are mostly knocked clear. In the interim, Nokians or 
Schwalbe Marathon Winter (carbide stud edition) or the 45nrth studded snows 
get the nod. Once the snow has melted off, any tire is fine for 
recreational use (the county roads are pretty open and don't ordinarily 
hold ice, unlike the suburban side streets).  

The Nokians are horrible slugs on pavement, overkill until you desperately 
need them. The Rock n' Roads hum a bit on pavement, do a partial fun-ectomy 
on any bike relative to a Hetre or nicer road tire, and are exceptionally 
good (due in part to a soft rubber compound) when it is cold and sloppy. 
They connect. They interact with the underlying materials. In snow, they're 
tractor tires for your bike. I don't love riding long-distance on them.

I keep two wheelsets for each of my bikes. For the Allroad, in the winter, 
one holds the Rock-n-roads, and the other my Nokian carbide studs. I also 
have two wheesets for my 700C randonneur, and those have a set of 32-622 
Paselas, and a set of michelin muds. If it is icy for any period of time, 
I'll switch the front to a 45Nrth studded snow. Finally, my "racing" bike 
has either Grifo-pattern 32mm cyclocross tubulars or Vittoria CG 27 
clinchers. I'll swap wheelsets to suit conditions and my whim, but my 650B 
Allroad gets most of the practical mileage through the winter.

In the summer (starting in April, as winter tires wear out, and switching 
back sometime in late October), all three wear superlight-casing 
herringbone-tread tires--42 or 48-584, 30-622, and 29mm tubulars, 
respectively.

When I lived in Louisiana, and it froze once every several years (it froze 
twice in five years, and the only sustained cold snap closed the local 
Junior High for a month to be completely re-plumbed), my Clement Criteriums 
were fine for sporting use year-round, and any 27X1 1/4" tire with fenders 
(paselas again--or its metric equivalent, a 32-622 tire) was plenty with 
fenders for practical applications.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO


On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 3:07:45 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:
>
> OK, I love my Barlow Pass 38s for all manner of off-pave riding in the dry 
> months. But now El Nino is mucking up my game!
>
> It's still fun out there, but I'd like to have a tad more traction in the 
> dirt. But I hate buzzing tires on pavement. What mixed terrain tires do 
> folks like? Tempted to try Rock n Roads, but want to look at options before 
> I drop $$ on expensive shoes for my bike.
>
> 700c, 35+.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Neil
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Joe Bernard]

It may just be luck of the draw combined with nailing the cable tension. One 
time I had a 9-speed Shimano bar-con accurately shifting a Shimano derailer and 
8-speed cassette with one extra click. IIRC it was a matter of using what I 
had, and assuming I would go friction but tried the clicks first. Sometimes ya 
just get lucky, which may have happened at Riv when they set up some bikes with 
those SunRace shifters.

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have to report the same shifting issues that are being mentioned 
regarding the Clems as built by Riv. In terms of what I am used to 
regarding gears, I have ridden it all with the exception of 11-speed. I 
mostly ride 6, 7, 8 speed friction these days.

I haven't yet had much time to try to figure out what is going on, but it 
will suddenly shift, skip, or grind under a moderate pedal load (not even a 
hill). Always find myself trimming both shifters, and starting to tense in 
anticipation of a problem.  I also feel like it does not play very well in 
the big/big combo, which I realize is a cross but thought I would be fine 
with modern 8 speed, negating the need to shift into the little ring, which 
for me is only for serious hills or when towing my Burley, not yet 
installed.

Even though other issues that kept me off the Clem have been squared away, 
I have not been riding it a lot lately, mainly because I have yet to rack 
it or dyno-light it. So the Big Dummy is getting the depths of winter daily 
commuting duties. And that has way longer chainstays than the Clementine. 
And nary a shifting problem, 3x8. It's kind of disappointing because one 
big draw for me about the Clem was the complete, don't need to think about 
it, good decent Riv approved parts selection. And yet here I am thinking 
about it. 


On Saturday, January 30, 2016 at 6:44:18 PM UTC-5, Tim Wood wrote:
>
>
> The real issue is this shifting, it's starting to drive me nuts. ...
>
> I started thinking about it and wondered if the long chain stays played a 
> roll in this scenario?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Steve Palincsar]

On 01/30/2016 06:44 PM, Tim Wood wrote:

I thought that too Joe when I first saw them but shifting them is comfortable 
enough. I push and pull with me thumb and sometimes on the rear shifter I use 
my index finger from under the bar to push it up.

The real issue is this shifting, it's starting to drive me nuts. Last night I 
went on a 2 hour spin through some local greenway paths and ended up finding 
some nice undulating forest trails that followed a little creek. The bike 
handled the swooping turns and uneven surfaces amazingly, it was so fun.  But, 
at one point I was descending and I could see a steep ramp approaching and knew 
I'd need to be in the small chainring (I was mid or higher up the cassette).  
Without even touching the rear shifter, only dropping down in the front, it 
started skipping and clunking and I couldn't get it back again and had to 
dismount part way up the climb. Annoying.


Are you saying that when you shifted in front the drivetrain started 
skipping in back?   I'm not sure I understand from your description 
exactly what happened.




I started thinking about it and wondered if the long chain stays played a roll 
in this scenario?  It's likely the rear shifter is to blame, it was probably 
one click away from being perfectly in line with the gear and when the chain 
went to the front ring, the new angle of the chain was enough to cause an 
alignment issue in the rear. But would the long stays and associated chain also 
contribute to this? Would the extra length exaggerate the angles?  Does the 
extra long chain affect shifting performance?


No the longer the stays the less the angle becomes.  For the ultimate in 
this, consider a tandem set up with a long chain and the main crank up 
front with the captain.  No angularity issues whatsoever, and a nearly 
perfect chain line even in the most extreme cross-chain gears.




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[RBW] F/S: Nitto, Clement, Velocity/Paul wheels, assorted goodies : )

[comveo]

Hey All,


Up for sale are a heaping handful of items I'm looking to pass along. 

All prices include shipping to the lower 48 US states. Please contact 
off-list to inquire.


*Photos here*: https://www.flickr.com/photos/125432464@N02/


-Zefal Hp X 3 frame pump, black (well used)  $15

-Velo Orange 44t chainguard (used, a few scuffs) $15

-Velocity Synergy 650b rims (pair, NEW) $60

-Shimano 600 front derailleur 28.6 clamp (used, tiny bit of rust, functions 
properly/no play) $10

-Nitto Marks Rack (lightly used) small S-bend struts included, ~3/4' cut 
off original strut length $85

-Nitto Noodle 48cm heat-treated handlebar (barely used, some tape residue) 
$45

-Panaracer Col De La Vie 650x38c (NEW, pair) $30

-Clement X'Plor MSO 700x40c 60tpi (used for less than 20 miles) $60

-MKS Sylvan Touring pedals, 1 pair (well used, still spin very smoothly) $10

-(Rear Wheel) Paul Components Jono Hub/Velocity Synergy O/C 36h/Wheelsmith 
DB-14 
(currently spaced and dished for 135mm 8 speed, less than 500 miles, all 
spacing plugs and endcaps included, skewer included free if needed) $150

-(Pair) Paul High Flange/Velocity Dyad 36h/Dt Swiss spoke wheelset (less 
than 1000 miles, flip flop rear hub, 15t cog included, 120mm & 130mm axles 
included as well) $300



Thanks everyone!


-Bryan




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Re: [RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Tim Wood]

Sorry Steve, I re-read that and it does need clarification: When I shifted to 
the small chainring up front, the rear derailer started skipping, clunking and 
became misaligned. 

Good point about the chain length not being a factor and the tandem example. 

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[Tim Wood]

Love the big dummy! Hey Mark, have you tried hooking up the burley trailer yet? 
Because of the shape of the Clem rear dropouts I wasn't able to install my 
chariot trailer receiver. I guess we'll be needing this part to make it happen 
https://burley.com/product/hitch-adapter/.  However I read a few reviews on 
Amazon that said the adapter caused excess stress on the quick release and bent 
them.  There's also the classic hitch option but not super keen on clamping 
that thing on my frame. 

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Re: [RBW] FS: Riv-ish Parts UPDATE

[Eric Norris]

Midge bars and Soma stem have been sold. Everything else is still looking for 
their forever home.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 10:29 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> Cleaning out the bike room a bit. All prices include shipping in the CONUS.
> 
> On One Midge Bars, 31.8 clamp diameter $25
> 
> Nitto Noodle Bars, 26.0 clamp diameter, 46Cm width $50
> 
> Soma seatpost, 27.2 diameter, extra long, with insertion marks $25
> 
> Soma threadless stem, fits 1 1/8” steerer, 25.4 clamp diameter with 4-bolt 
> faceplate, 110cm length $20
> 
> B Top Line Plus taillight with standlight, for dyno systems $35
> 
> Photos of everything here: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/albums/72157661784257364 
>  
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com 
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: "Biketinkers Union" patches

[Bill Gibson]

Proud to rid in solidarity with all my brothers and sisters of the open
road, and the cluttered shop!

On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 6:46 PM, Patrick Shea  wrote:

> Great news, Philip! Ever hear of The Thinking Feller's Union? I saw them
> at The Independent in SF way back in the early '90s. Music to do good work
> by.
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick Shea
>
> On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Philip Williamson <
> philip.william...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Biketinkers Patch - UPDATE - I'm mailing out the patches today. I was
>> very excited to get the Big Envelope today, and extra-pleased that Walter
>> included a couple of the Snow Viking patches I drew for him.
>>
>> I pre-addressed all the envelopes over the last several evenings, so you
>> should get your shipping notices soon.
>> Thanks for joining up! I'm queuing up some Dropkick Murphys
>>  union songs for the packing operation. :^)
>>
>> Philip
>> www.biketinker.com
>>
>> On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 4:22:14 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm making my first "Biketinker" patches, with Walter at Falls Creek
>>> Outfitters. He's going to tweak that R, and they'll be ready to ship in a
>>> couple weeks. If you'd like to get a couple, they're $5 each over on my
>>> Etsy shop.
>>>
>>> These first ones are a Sheldon tribute, since he started a lot more
>>> people than me down the path of wrenching on bikes, make mistakes, and
>>> sometimes create new things. He was a true originator, and even today, if
>>> you need esoteric bike information, "Ask And Sheldon Has The Answer."
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.etsy.com/listing/264180515/325-biketinkers-union-patch-pre-order
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Many thanks!
>>> Philip
>>> www.biketinker.com
>>>
>>>
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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS 56cm 2003 Rivendell Atlantis.

[Hugh Smitham]

*56cm** Atlantis *



Bump: No price drop on the complete build and I've removed the second wheel
option. But  I will consider selling frame & fork with headset $1500.00
plus shipping in the CONUS


*Images
*


*Build:*

· Shimano XT Front & Rear Derailleur’s.

· Sugino XD600 Crankset 170mm length (24, 34, 46)

· MKS Grip King Pedals (Silver)

· Phil Wood Bottom Bracket 113mm (adjustable)

· Connex/Wipperman Silver 9 speed chain & quick connect link.

· Tange Needle bearing Headset.

· Nitto Tallux 10cm stem 225mm quill.

· Nitto Albatross Bars (Aluminum) W/ Miesha Cork Grips

· Shimano MTB brake levers.

· Paul touring Cantilever brakes & Kool-Stop Supra 2 two tone pads.

· Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters.

· Shimano (HG-61) 9 speed cassette 12-36

· Nitto S65 Crystal Fellows Seat Post 27.2mm X 250mm long


*Wheels:*

· Front   Mavic 220 UB Control XT Hub, WTB All Terrain tire & tubes.

· Rear   Mavic 220 UB Control XT Hub, WTB All Terrain tire & tubes.


*Price excluding Brooks’s saddle $2400.00 shipping not included.*


Thanks for looking,

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipeedemusings.com/



On Sat, Jan 23, 2016 at 5:48 PM, dougP  wrote:

> "Steal your face right off of your head".  Hunter & Garcia, ca 1972; "He's
> Gone", from Europe '72.
>
>
> On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 3:04:47 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> Thanks! Are you speaking of the Dead sticker on the seat tube? If so I
>> wish it was.
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 8:10:19 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
>>>
>>> Wow! That is a fantastic bike! I love the color. Also, is the Steal Your
>>> Face under the clear coat? I've been thinking hard about swapping out the
>>> Hunq for an Atlantis but I need a 59 or 61cm. What a great build though.
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: F/S: Nitto, Clement, Velocity/Paul wheels, assorted goodies : )

[comveo]

All built wheels are 700c. Sorry about that!


-Bryan

On Sunday, January 31, 2016 at 12:20:36 AM UTC-5, comveo wrote:
>
> Hey All,
>
>
> Up for sale are a heaping handful of items I'm looking to pass along. 
>
> All prices include shipping to the lower 48 US states. Please contact 
> off-list to inquire.
>
>
> *Photos here*: https://www.flickr.com/photos/125432464@N02/
>
>
> -Zefal Hp X 3 frame pump, black (well used)  $15
>
> -Velo Orange 44t chainguard (used, a few scuffs) $15
>
> -Velocity Synergy 650b rims (pair, NEW) $60
>
> -Shimano 600 front derailleur 28.6 clamp (used, tiny bit of rust, 
> functions properly/no play) $10
>
> -Nitto Marks Rack (lightly used) small S-bend struts included, ~3/4' cut 
> off original strut length $85
>
> -Nitto Noodle 48cm heat-treated handlebar (barely used, some tape residue) 
> $45
>
> -Panaracer Col De La Vie 650x38c (NEW, pair) $30
>
> -Clement X'Plor MSO 700x40c 60tpi (used for less than 20 miles) $60
>
> -MKS Sylvan Touring pedals, 1 pair (well used, still spin very smoothly) 
> $10
>
> -(Rear Wheel) Paul Components Jono Hub/Velocity Synergy O/C 36h/Wheelsmith 
> DB-14 
> (currently spaced and dished for 135mm 8 speed, less than 500 miles, all 
> spacing plugs and endcaps included, skewer included free if needed) $150
>
> -(Pair) Paul High Flange/Velocity Dyad 36h/Dt Swiss spoke wheelset (less 
> than 1000 miles, flip flop rear hub, 15t cog included, 120mm & 130mm axles 
> included as well) $300
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
>
> -Bryan
>
>
>
>
>

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