Re: [RBW] Nitto Tallux Stem FS

[S. Greco]

will do, thx 

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[RBW] Re: FS SRAM GX Type 2.1 10-Speed Rear Derailleur

[Bruce Smitham]

Sold

On Monday, October 24, 2016 at 5:23:32 PM UTC-7, Bruce Smitham wrote:
>
> New in box SRAM GX Type 2.1 10-Speed Rear Derailleur: Type 2 derailleurs 
> feature a roller bearing clutch for damping and cage lock for easy wheel 
> changes. Exact Actuation ratio works with all SRAM mountain/road 10-speed 
> shifters. Di.R.T (Direct Route Technology) for light-effort shifting 
> performance. 36-tooth cassette capacity $45 plus shipping CONUS
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce
>

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Tallux Stem FS

[Hugh Smitham]

It's h...@smitham.com/ friends and family please.

Please include your shipping address.

Best Regards,

~Hugh

On Oct 25, 2016 6:17 PM, "S. Greco"  wrote:

> whats your paypal address?
>
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[RBW] Nitto Tallux Stem FS

[S. Greco]

whats your paypal address?

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[RBW] Nitto Tallux Stem FS

[S. Greco]

i'll take this stem off your hands if still available

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[RBW] New BLUG post! Frank Jones Sr

[Richard Rios]

Looks like a rad project. Blug says it will be drop bar compatable so I'm 
guessing tt length should be reasonable. Wonder if it will be TiG or lugs 
though? 

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[RBW] New BLUG post! Frank Jones Sr

[Belopsky]

This perks my interest, however I'm sure it'll have a lng top tube, but 
since it's for Blue Lug, I imagine there will be smaller sizes so maybe it 
will be OK for someone like me..



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[RBW] FS: Nigel Smythe Country Bag and Ortlieb Bike Packer Plus Panniers

[Bob K.]

Hey Folks:

Thanks for all of the interest in my other for sale thread, and my 
apologies for posting a couple in such quick succession. I'm unloading 
currently unused stuff in order to buy new stuff that will hopefully be 
used! Make me an offer if I'm too high on my prices! I'm open to trades for 
a Carradice Super C Saddlebag and Carradice bag support. I'm also in the 
market for a Revelate Designs seat bag. 

Bob K. in Baltimore

*Nigel Smythe Country Bag--$120 + actual shipping*: I bought this with my 
Sam in '09. It's been used a fair bit, but is still in good, but not 
"showroom," condition. There is some staining (coffee?) under the flap and 
some stitching has ripped out a bit inside. Easily fixable with the right 
needle, which I don't have. Doesn't affect function. See pictures for more 
info: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/144370117@N03/?

*Ortlieb Bike Packer Plus Panniers--$210 shipped*: They're the 
graphite/black. I bought these and never used them. Box opened, but nothing 
more. They're $240 at REI. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto (bar, stems, rack), Shimano (derailleurs, brakes, groupset), Suntour downtubes, Ergon Grips, Surly Open Bar, et cetera!

[Bob K.]

Another update. See below for what's still available. Also see my new 
thread if you're interested in Ortlieb Bike Packer Plus panniers or a Nigel 
Smythe "Country Bag." 

Don't hesitate to reach out with offers or questions about the remaining 
items, and thanks again for all of the interest in this stuff! 

Bob K. in Baltimore
- - - - -

*Mountain Bike "User Interface"*

*Surly Open Bar*--$45 shipped: Forgot to snap a picture of this. I wasn't 
very careful when installing brakes and thumbies, so it's scuffed, and 
since it's CroMo, there's a bit of surface rust. Nothing major, but it show 
quality. Wrap it up with cotton bar tape and forget it. I can take a 
picture if you need one. Combo this with the Ergon grips for $60 shipped. 
Super comfy.

*Ergon GP1 Grips*--$20 shipped: Used for one tour and tooling around town.


*Brakes, **Derailleurs, & Shifter*

*Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur RD-M591*--$30 shipped: Great used shape. 
Silver/Black. *Combo this with the FD for $40 shipped.*

*Shimano Deore Front Derailleur FD-M591*--$20 shipped: Great used shape. 
Silver/Black. 

*Suntour Downtube Friction Shifters*--$20 shipped: Used take-off from my 
wife's Trek 613. Clamp-on. See pictures.

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Compass McClure Pass tire height and width?

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yeah, I'm curious as well.  I have a bike currently running 26 x 1.75" 
Paselas on Rhino Lytes, and am wondering if the Naches ass tires are indeed 
wider than the Paselas.  I'd love to go a little wider when the Paselas 
wear out, but Rat Traps are too wide to fit under my fenders (re-radiused 
VO 650b zeppelins - about 54mm wide).

Eamon

On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 6:29:42 AM UTC-7, Philip Kim wrote:

> Anyone try these Naches pass tires yet?
>
>
>>>

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[RBW] Tarik Saleh Bike Club webstore, caps, patches and pins in stock.

[tarik saleh]

Hey RBW folks,

Figured some of you who are not on the Bob list,  might like to know that
the Tarik Saleh Bike Club has a webstore with Randi Jo Fab made caps
patches and pins in stock and shipping worldwide:
http://tsbc.bigcartel.com/
Caps are going pretty fast, but the pins and the patches are in stock for
the foreseeable future.
Use the code
IBOBSRULZ
for two bucks off a cap order, especially for the ibob/RBW community. Sorry
for not having a specific RBW code, but I figure you can handle it.
  It only works for the first cap order, but I will throw in a free patch
for RBW listers if they order two caps.

I am trying to transition to an opt in only email list, so hit up
tariksaleh.com/tsbc to sign up, or follow the tarik saleh bike club on
facebook if you want to know when things go on sale right away, I have used
the email list exactly once since I started it, so it is very very low
traffic.

Thanks pals,

Tarik

-- 
Tarik Saleh
tas at tariksaleh dot com
in los alamos, NM, USA, po box 208, 87544
http://tariksaleh.com
all sorts of bikes blog: http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Bob K.]

Thanks, Bill. I'll give this a look today, too. I believe I have it set up 
correctly now, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Bob K. in Baltimore

On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 12:45:40 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> 
> There is only one correct position for the castle washer, as Tim described 
> it.  That castle washer has a cylindrical raised section in the middle and 
> off of that is a single rectangular keyway.  The correct orientation of 
> htat washer has that rectangular keyway pointing DOWN towards the ground 
> and slightly towards the BACK of the bicycle.  I've photographed one of my 
> shifters with the castle washer oriented correctly.  In this orientation, 
> there is a detent or click when the shifter is all the way down, towards 
> the granny chainring.  If you have that rectangular lobe pointing in any of 
> the other three directions, you have it set up wrong.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 8:34:39 AM UTC-7, Bob K. wrote:
>>
>> I was able to rotate the spacer and the shifter now has full range of 
>> motion. Thanks, Tim! 
>>
>> I'm still getting a sort of "click" stop in the middle position. My older 
>> Ultegra bar ends don't have this. I tried messing around with the spacer 
>> some more and it didn't go away, but in the end, it doesn't really matter, 
>> and if I get the right tension on the FD cable, I can set it so the stop 
>> sort of "indexes" on the middle ring, which is almost always what I use. 
>> Maybe others already do this.
>>
>> Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Bob K.]

Tim, 

Good eye! I've done two Daytrotter sessions now with my band, Small Sur. 
One was back in 2009, and then we did another in 2011. The Daytrotter folks 
were super kind and accommodating both times--although unfortunately Sean 
wasn't around either time we were there. I hope to swing through Rock 
Island and do another session one of these years.

I'll consider a different left/front shifter. My love of symmetry might 
hold me back from going there, but it's something to think about, 
especially if I don't end up liking the middle stop.

Bob K. in Baltimore

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Bob K.]

Tim, 

Good eye! I've done two Daytrotter sessions now with my band, Small Sur. 
One was back in 2009, and then we did another in 2011. The Daytrotter folks 
were super kind and accommodating both times--although unfortunately Sean 
wasn't around either time we were there. I hope to swing through Rock 
Island and do another session one of these years.

I'll consider a different left/front shifter. My love of symmetry might 
hold me back from going there, but it's something to think about, 
especially if I don't end up liking the middle stop.

Bob K. in Baltimore


On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 11:55:46 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Glad it worked out for you!
>
> Yeah, Shimano bar-ends seem to have a stop in the middle.  I don't know 
> why.  They're not indexed, but the stop does seem to correspond to the 
> center ring.
>
> For this and other reasons, I prefer to use a Silver 1 shifter for the 
> left/front bar-end, and a Shimano indexed 10-speed shifter for the 
> right/rear bar-end.  I find that the Silver front shifter moves a bit more 
> cable for the same amount of lever throw, compared to the Shimano front 
> bar-end.  So, the Silver shifter is at the 8:00 position in the big ring, 
> where the Shimano will be at 9:30.  
>
>
> Bob, when did you do a Daytrotter session?  I'm a huge fan (they're 1 hr 
> away from me) and Sean and Johnny are now friends of mine.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Bob K. > 
> wrote:
>
>> I was able to rotate the spacer and the shifter now has full range of 
>> motion. Thanks, Tim! 
>>
>> I'm still getting a sort of "click" stop in the middle position. My older 
>> Ultegra bar ends don't have this. I tried messing around with the spacer 
>> some more and it didn't go away, but in the end, it doesn't really matter, 
>> and if I get the right tension on the FD cable, I can set it so the stop 
>> sort of "indexes" on the middle ring, which is almost always what I use. 
>> Maybe others already do this.
>>
>> Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>
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>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Bill Lindsay]

There is only one correct position for the castle washer, as Tim described 
it.  That castle washer has a cylindrical raised section in the middle and 
off of that is a single rectangular keyway.  The correct orientation of 
htat washer has that rectangular keyway pointing DOWN towards the ground 
and slightly towards the BACK of the bicycle.  I've photographed one of my 
shifters with the castle washer oriented correctly.  In this orientation, 
there is a detent or click when the shifter is all the way down, towards 
the granny chainring.  If you have that rectangular lobe pointing in any of 
the other three directions, you have it set up wrong.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA



On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 8:34:39 AM UTC-7, Bob K. wrote:
>
> I was able to rotate the spacer and the shifter now has full range of 
> motion. Thanks, Tim! 
>
> I'm still getting a sort of "click" stop in the middle position. My older 
> Ultegra bar ends don't have this. I tried messing around with the spacer 
> some more and it didn't go away, but in the end, it doesn't really matter, 
> and if I get the right tension on the FD cable, I can set it so the stop 
> sort of "indexes" on the middle ring, which is almost always what I use. 
> Maybe others already do this.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Tim Gavin]

Glad it worked out for you!

Yeah, Shimano bar-ends seem to have a stop in the middle.  I don't know
why.  They're not indexed, but the stop does seem to correspond to the
center ring.

For this and other reasons, I prefer to use a Silver 1 shifter for the
left/front bar-end, and a Shimano indexed 10-speed shifter for the
right/rear bar-end.  I find that the Silver front shifter moves a bit more
cable for the same amount of lever throw, compared to the Shimano front
bar-end.  So, the Silver shifter is at the 8:00 position in the big ring,
where the Shimano will be at 9:30.


Bob, when did you do a Daytrotter session?  I'm a huge fan (they're 1 hr
away from me) and Sean and Johnny are now friends of mine.

Cheers,
Tim

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Bob K.  wrote:

> I was able to rotate the spacer and the shifter now has full range of
> motion. Thanks, Tim!
>
> I'm still getting a sort of "click" stop in the middle position. My older
> Ultegra bar ends don't have this. I tried messing around with the spacer
> some more and it didn't go away, but in the end, it doesn't really matter,
> and if I get the right tension on the FD cable, I can set it so the stop
> sort of "indexes" on the middle ring, which is almost always what I use.
> Maybe others already do this.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
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[RBW] Re: Brake comparison again

[Cyclofiend Jim]

I would say it's consistent with my experience.  

"Modulation" gets used a lot around bicycle brakes, and a lot of time very 
imprecisely.  In this case - accurately - we're talking about the range of 
response.  There were a few good articles over the years - one in an Old 
Reader and another by Keith Bontrager where they wrote clearly about this. 
 Both those articles appeared as V-brakes (technically "Linear Pull" 
brakes) became the norm (much as hub-mounted disc brakes are now).  

One of the better examples I've heard was a music amplifier - one example 
with a knob that increased output volume 1 dB for every 360 degree turn, 
and one that increased 100 dB in a quarter turn.  They both will get to the 
same place, but the former takes longer.  

Translating that to brakes, the LP brakes shifted the mechanical advantage 
to the brake arm, by requiring a lever that pulled more cable over the same 
distance.  Since you have limited real estate between your brake lever at 
rest and your handlebar (which prevents further movement), you create the 
same difference.  

If you grew up using cantilever brakes, you got used to a longer range of 
lever feedback.  Making the change to LP brakes meant learning to lighten 
up your touch on the lever, and learn precisely where the "sweet spot" was. 
 One of the best/longest nose wheelies I ever rode was after grabbling a 
"canti" handful of lever on a LP-equipped mtb.

In other words, I had to spend some time relearning lever technique to 
control a LP-equipped bike.  

Yep - it's real.  

NOTE: Modulation (the _range_ of response) is different than "spongey" 
(high Mechanical Advantage) vs. "firm" (low MA).  Sheldon wrote well on 
that - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Also - there have been attempts over the years to increase the brake 
pressure in a non-linear way - Shimano Servo-Wave levers and the Scott 
Self-Energizing brakes, for example. 

On Wednesday, October 19, 2016 at 11:10:30 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I have lots of experience with bunches of SP & canti brakes, along with 
> assorted levers,  but very little with V brakes and none with disks. During 
> the last month I have had the opportunity to try both out.  We have test 
> ridden two tandems (a DaVinci with ICS and a CoMotion with a Rolhoff). 
>  Much to my surprise I could not tell much difference between those to sets 
> of disk brakes and the neo retros on our tandem.  Both the power and 
> modulation felt very similar.  I am now visiting my son in El Cerrito and 
> we borrowed a bike with Tectro V brakes.  I found them very powerful but 
> the front brake had almost no modulation at all.  Just the slightest touch 
> of the lever brought the bike to a complete stop.
>
> Is this typical of V brakes?  Do others who have tried these have a 
> similar impression?
>
> Michael
>

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Re: [RBW] Ultegra Bar End Question/Conundrum

[Bob K.]

I was able to rotate the spacer and the shifter now has full range of 
motion. Thanks, Tim! 

I'm still getting a sort of "click" stop in the middle position. My older 
Ultegra bar ends don't have this. I tried messing around with the spacer 
some more and it didn't go away, but in the end, it doesn't really matter, 
and if I get the right tension on the FD cable, I can set it so the stop 
sort of "indexes" on the middle ring, which is almost always what I use. 
Maybe others already do this.

Anyway, thanks again for the tips.

Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: In search of trade: Long shot, at that - 56cm Hillborne for something that fits me better

[redsydude]

There was a funny thing in one of the Readers where they installed a stem 
backwards and reported that the bike handled fine.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Albatross Bars

[tresbambi...@gmail.com]

how much does the condition of the bars matter?
Thanks,
albert

On Saturday, October 22, 2016 at 2:27:31 PM UTC-4, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Look for Albatross bars. Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: In search of trade: Long shot, at that - 56cm Hillborne for something that fits me better

[Belopsky]

Standover is certainly 'right there' but find for riding around town and 
errands, I do not mind. Reach is more of an issue, but with the pullback 
bars, not at all. I do not want to put a short stem on a bike, I've learned 
to hate the way it handles.

On Tuesday, October 25, 2016 at 9:56:24 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> Changing the stem won't make the frame any smaller, so if standover height 
> is the issue, not much you can do about that, but based on the green bike 
> in the picture and what you've said I would say that a shorter Technomic 
> stem (80mm) might help a little. And raising it up some will help you feel 
> less stretched out.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60CM Blue Bombadil frame LIKE new

[Kendallspower]

1200.

On Monday, September 14, 2015 at 1:09:22 PM UTC-7, Kendallspower wrote:
>
> Trying to gauge interest. I have 2 and I never ride the nicer one which I 
> am thinking about parting with. It was a wedding gift from 
> my wife.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59CM Heron

[Kendallspower]

I am moving soon. I may part it it out. Any interest?

On Thursday, October 20, 2016 at 10:40:13 AM UTC-7, Kendallspower wrote:
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/5810577008.html
>
> Negotiable on price.
>

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[RBW] Re: In search of trade: Long shot, at that - 56cm Hillborne for something that fits me better

[masmojo]

Changing the stem won't make the frame any smaller, so if standover height is 
the issue, not much you can do about that, but based on the green bike in the 
picture and what you've said I would say that a shorter Technomic stem (80mm) 
might help a little. And raising it up some will help you feel less stretched 
out.

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Compass McClure Pass tire height and width?

[Patrick Moore]

Yes, please -- if any of you have used them, please post width and height
and the width of the rim (inside width or outside) they are mounted on.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 7:29 AM, Philip Kim  wrote:

> Anyone try these Naches pass tires yet?
>
> On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 11:06:52 PM UTC-4, Ricardo wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for alerting me to the new Compass offerings, Patrick. Checking
>> the site, I see they have added the Naches Pass, which seems to be the
>> slimmed down Rat Trap Pass some of us have been hoping for to fit our XO-1s
>> or other bikes that can't fit the RTPs.  Anyone try these?
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Compass McClure Pass tire height and width?

[Philip Kim]

Anyone try these Naches pass tires yet?

On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 11:06:52 PM UTC-4, Ricardo wrote:
>
> Thanks for alerting me to the new Compass offerings, Patrick. Checking the 
> site, I see they have added the Naches Pass, which seems to be the slimmed 
> down Rat Trap Pass some of us have been hoping for to fit our XO-1s or 
> other bikes that can't fit the RTPs.  Anyone try these?  
>
> Ric in SFNM
>
> On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 4:44:46 PM UTC-6, bertin753 wrote:
>>
>> You are right: 1.5 or 38. However, if they measure similarly to the Elk 
>> Passes, with a 9+% shortfall, then perhaps they may measure close to 32 on 
>> a 23 mm rim?
>>
>> Not that *I* am complaining about the perfect 559 28 mm tire!
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Justin Hughes  wrote:
>>
>>> FWIW, the website lists them as 1.5". If that's the case I'd think 
>>> they'd end up larger than 32mm.  Is there a 1.25" Pasela? 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/26-inch/compass-26x1-5-mcclure-pass/
>>>
>>> Justin
>>>
>>> On Oct 6, 2016, at 5:11 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>> They are labeled 1.4", so I guess 36 as most. If small, perhaps they'll 
>>> be a true 32? 32 will fit under my fenders.
>>>
>>> I would jump, except that these are not the extra lights, and that I am 
>>> so happy with the ~28 mm Elk Passes.
>>>
>>> Joe: I think I've read that all Compass tires, albeit made by Panracer, 
>>> are made from very different materials than the Paselas.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 2:50 PM, Justin Hughes  wrote:
>>>
 I have a lot of experience with myriad Panaracer made tires. I am very 
 confident that those tires will not measure over 38mm wide on a 17/23 rim. 
 My money is that they'd be really close to 36mm. This tire is labeled as 
 1.5", right?


 On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 2:09:00 PM UTC-4, bertin753 wrote:
>
> Compass couldn't give me the information, doubtless due to caution 
> about returns and irate customers shouting about mis-sizing, but I wonder 
> if any listmember can do so?
>
> There just *might* be room under fenders on the '03 for this 1.4" 
> 'specially if they run narrow, as the EPs do.
>
> So, question: if I installed a McClure Pass on a 23 mm outside width 
> rim at ~ 50 psi, what total height or diameter, and what width, could I 
> expect?
>
>
> Patrick "will not take you to court on your answer" Moore, AKA:
>
> Patrick "still have serious doubts about using anything except the 
> superlatively wonderful Elk Passes" Moore -- who rode them on choppy 
> bosque 
> dirt just on Monday.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> *
> ***
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of 
> a circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, 
> and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while 
> the world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *
> Aristotle
>
>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Other professional writi

[RBW] Re: 1st Bombadil on Treasure Island

[RichS]

Jim, what a well-loved and distinctive Bomba. Before I bought my first Riv 
I seriously considered an unpainted Bomba Proto that was listed as a web 
special. I'm happy with my Rivs but there's something special about the 
Bomba (such a cool name). Thanks for your post and the bit about Tammy's 
impressive customer service. Wow!

Best regards,
Richard

On Monday, October 24, 2016 at 10:43:54 PM UTC-4, Jim M. wrote:
>
> No shuttle needed if on bike. But be careful riding down the hill to Yerba 
> Buena. There are some deep holes for storm drain grates that could send you 
> over the bars.
>
> As to finding the path, if you're at MacArthur BART, just head towards the 
> bay on 40th street and you'll see signs when you approach Ikea.
>
> So I think the patina is approaching corrosion stage, otherwise I would 
> leave it. It's an 8 yr old proto-Bomba, so I can live with getting a new 
> clearcoat every 8 years.
>
> And Tammy the waffle lady also owns the bike shop. She had a waffle 
> customer with a flat, so she rode her bike to the bike shop and brought 
> back tube, pump, and levers, and then got back to cooking waffles.
>
> jim m
> wc,ca
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 1st Bombadil on Treasure Island

[M D Smith]

And she's wearing a Brooklyn Cyclones cap!  Representing about as far away fron 
Coney Island as one can get...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brooklyn_Cyclones

There always next year...


-Mike in Bklyn, NY

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