[RBW] Damn - Dave's leaving.

[iamkeith]

Sounds like a good move for your family so I'm glad for you and them, but 
you'll be missed, Dave.  Thanks for the personable interaction and all you 
added to the Rivendell experience.  

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Joe Bernard]

Actually it's quite simple to tell another rider what bar-ends are like on a 
Bosco. Here's how it works: You have Boscos, you put bar-ends on them, then you 
say what it's like. 

I tried it on a Clem a couple years ago and thought it was pretty great while 
riding, but the hopping off and getting trapped by that long bar with shifter 
was annoying. If I did it again I would chop an inch off the bars first. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[lambbo]

Ash, 

I had one mounted on my Cheviot - it did not fit well but got me through a 
couple loaded mini-tours and very heavy material runs.  However, I took it off 
after about a year, because it was just so oddly attached (clamps).

Wouldn't recommend it. 

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Me too. I like bar end shifters, but on sweep-back bars they can be 
problematic in some cases. Mainly though I did not want to give up the old 
school grips.

[image: clementine shifters.JPG] 

Yer kilometers might not come out the same as mine!

On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:09:24 PM UTC-4, Andy H wrote:
>
> I've mounted my shifters on the stem and really like having all the clear 
> space on my bars.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 4:44:37 AM UTC-4, R. Alexis wrote: *Don't 
know why Dia-Compe didn't come up with a different model# for these brakes*
. 

I have been thinking the same thing, as they have no relationship to the 
original other than the name of the company that makes them. Both the 
design and the look are fundamentally different, and the new brakes, like 
most modern cantis, will get hung up on the fork blades or the seat stays, 
limiting the tire width; in fact, Rivendell recommends the Shimano CX50s 
for anything over 45mm. The original design keeps the brake blocks in front 
of the braze-ons, so the brakes can open all the way. Ironically, that 
feature--being able to open fully like old-style cantis-- is what Riv used 
to tout about the CX70-CX50 brakes, though I see that has been removed from 
the description. Riv's ad copy says they are a much improved version, but 
the only potentially objective statement supporting this statement seems to 
be "far, far, better brake shoes." Of course the originals could be 
upgraded with far, far better brake shoes as well.

I look forward to seeing what kind of carving Bill does, as I am somewhat 
underwhelmed with aesthetics of the "new" 980 and prefer the styling of the 
originals. Then again, while it seems they often not fondly regarded in 
terms of looks, I find the simplicity and angularity of the CR720s to be 
quite attractive, and they also carry out in a timely manner the cessation 
of the spinning of the bicycle wheels required of them.

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Andy H]

I've mounted my shifters on the stem and really like having all the clear 
space on my bars.


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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[iiro koskenniemi]

I've got a mark's rack with a wald basket for way over a year now and have 
been loading full and over the top many times. more than 8kg for sure.

there are 4 struts though which probably makes all the difference compared 
to M18 for example.

On Wednesday, 15 August 2018 01:16:51 UTC+2, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: F.S. Roadrunner Bags and Velo Orange Rackaleur

[Steve Butcher]

Price drop and bump.  I'd take $110.00 shipped for both bags CONUS.  
 
Steve 

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 7:59:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Butcher wrote:
>
> Bags are still for sale.  
>
> Steve
>
> On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:37:23 PM UTC-5, Steve Butcher wrote:
>>
>> The Rackaleur has sold.  I'm waiting for a response from an inquiry for 
>> the bags.  
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 7:18:54 PM UTC-5, Steve Butcher wrote:
>>>
>>> [image: 20180822_175915.jpg]
>>>
>>> [image: 20180822_185116.jpg]
>>> Hello, I'm sorting out my bag needs and have decided to offer for sale 
>>> this set of Roadrunner bags and a Velo Orange Rackaleur.  The bags include 
>>> a Jammer handlebar bag and a Drafter Saddle bag.  They are both in as new 
>>> condition without any damage.  I mounted them on my Riv Rosco Bubbe mixte 
>>> but only took them on one brief ride.  They have always been stored 
>>> indoors.  In the on bike photo (apology for side ways photo) you can see 
>>> the Jammer mounted on the Rackaleur which makes a neat way to mount the 
>>> bag.  It's like they were meant for each other.  The Rackaleur fits well 
>>> over quill stems and it is in excellent condition.  I'd like to get $150.00 
>>> for the entire package shipped CONUS PayPal preferred.  Retail on the lot 
>>> would be $220.00 before shipping.  Please send me a private message with 
>>> questions.  
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Steve Butcher
>>> Stockton, Missouri
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: GDMBR with Adventure Cycling

[Bill Schairer]

I had intended to do a detailed ride report but don't seem to be getting 
around to it and it would be too long.  The short - it was great, 
everything worked well and I would only make very minor adjustments if 
doing again.

I did, however, send an email to one of my road touring buddies and I'll 
post that instead.  Even it is probably too long.  Then there are some 
pictures here: 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nSx6maRRN9NXXF4QA

Ah, you dare to ask me about equipment?  Overall, I had no complaints at 
all about my equipment choices and would take the Atlantis again without 
any hesitation at all.  There is a caveat, we had zero rain and I 
understand that can make a big difference.  Steve, our leader, had been 
over this same stretch of road just days before and said it was in MUCH 
better condition than when he road it earlier.  I did dismount once simply 
because the ruts in the road were so deep I didn’t think I could get 
through without dragging my panniers.  I had previously dragged both a 
front and a rear without consequence.  Other than the panniers, I would 
have stayed mounted but we are talking maybe 10 yards.




This picture shows the extreme range of bikes:


Phil’s bike is a Commotion coupled bike with 38mm tires.  He was VERY 
anxious about his tire width and complained the most about the rocky 
descents but he was consistently one of the earliest finishers.  Jim had 
like 4” tires and one kept looking for the motor on his behemoth.  Despite 
his wide tires he was the first to fall riding through mud and typically 
one of the last finishers.  I later fell going through mud but because I 
lost my line not because of traction.  I like to think it was because I had 
to negotiate my way around Jim, who had decided to walk the mud after his 
earlier fall, and that distracted me and broke my rhythm. As far as I know, 
we were the only two to take a spill.  There was only one flat on the trip 
that I know about, ironically - a staple!  I suspect I could’ve descended 
somewhat faster and more smoothly with fatter, lower pressure tires but I’m 
not sure I would have wanted to.  I pumped my tires to 40 psi at the start 
and didn’t touch them the entire trip.  If I really wanted smoother, I 
could have lowered my tire pressure somewhat but seem to have chosen not to.


Several people were riding 1x’s.  I don’t think anybody was riding a 2x.  
Maybe 50/50 between 1x vs. 3x.  I would estimate that I spent 1/3 to 1/2 my 
time on my 24t chainring, maybe 5% on the large chainring (46) and the rest 
on the middle 36t.  My cassette was 12-36 9 speed and I wouldn’t go out of 
my way for lower gearing unless I happened across a low priced cassette 
with a bigger cog.  I would guess I walked maybe 1-2 miles altogether and 
that I was on the low end.  I don’t think a lower gear would have decreased 
the walking but would have made a few stretches a bit easier.  I could 
imagine a 1x is best choice for highly technical mountain bike racing but 
of no advantage whatsoever for this type of ride.  I had no complaint with 
my triple or my gearing.


My cantilever brakes had plenty of braking power.  I did have to stop to 
rest my hands several times on descents.  I understand hydraulic disks 
require less hand pressure for the same braking power but I wouldn’t choose 
that setup anyway.  I don’t mind resting on tour and would prefer to keep 
things simple.  Disks are supposedly better in rain and mud but I cannot 
comment on that.  I’d go again with the cantilevers.


My baggage setup was probably the most traditional.  Many used “dry bags” 
strapped to their handlebars and/or a frame bag of one sort or another.  I 
think everyone used rear panniers.  I loved my setup and felt I could setup 
and tear down and be ready to go as quickly as anyone.  My bags probably 
rode lower or as low as anyones but, except for the 10 yards previously 
mentioned, I did not find my setup to be a disadvantage as compared to the 
more bike packing setups (though nobody was pure “bike packing” - which I 
don’t understand anyway as it seems to have a goal of getting one’s center 
of gravity as high as physically possible). Despite my handlebar bag 
(mounted on a decaleur front rack, NOT on the handlebars), I probably had 
the least amount of weight on the bars (my bear bell - which was useless as 
the bike itself makes plenty of noise, and a headlight).  Three people had 
pannier mounting failures of one sort or another - in each case the much 
raved about (which I have never understood) Ortliebs.  I did lose my 
sleeping pad off the back once when I hit a bump I did not see at speed.  
Probably rode a half mile before I discovered my loss and backtracked for 
it.  I also lost my rack mounted tail light somewhere - undoubtedly on one 
of the rocky descents.


At the end of the day, the finishing order of people, in my opinion, had 
just about zero to do with the bikes, the setups or the weight carried and 
everything to do with 

[RBW] Re: WTB 55cm Cheviot

[Lester Lammers]

Not sure Joe, depends on what goes with it.

Andrew, I'm sending Kristin more pics and will post them here too.

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:59:48 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:

> Lester, what's your price? I imagine several people will be interested. 

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[RBW] Re: Seeking recommendations for builder to make yet further modifications to my 2003 Rivendell

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, RBW listers. Your (and others') suggestions brought up some of the
best names, but right now I think I am leaning toward Mark Nobilette,
seeing what he did with Dn Patrick's bike.

I may or may not proceed; if I do, I'll report.

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Garth]

I'd have to see your bars to know what you're talking about as to your 
current setup and what's "in the way".  If it is the setup that riv seems 
to promote, with the shifters literally "at hand", then yea . not my 
cup 'o tea but whatever floats the boat.  What about putting the shifters 
more forward of the brake levers ?  Or, if the bars are steel, bar end 
brake levers and putting some top mounted "regular" thumb shifters on the 
top of the bar where you like ?


As for the bar end shifters, only you'd know if that'd work well as only 
you are you the rider, and thus no one can tell you what that's like, since 
only you are you  ;-)  !!!


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[RBW] New demos on the Riv site

[Andrew Huston]

Sam, Clem, Roadeo, and Atlantis. Good deals!
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Zed Martinez]

I used the Dia Compe friction bar ends on a Bosco for about two years, 
liked it just fine, just watch your knees in tight turns. The long straight 
stretch of grippable area really lets you just slide your hand back and 
catch them with either your fingers or palm, it always felt very slick to 
me.

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[RBW] Bar end shifters on Boscos?

[Ash]

Having tried many alt bars, Bosco is currently my favorite.  For casual 
around the town riding as well as long rides on even surfaces, I think they 
will remain my top choice forever.  60% of the time I use the hand position 
in front of brake levers.  Both trigger shifters as well as thumb shifters 
(in certain gears) get in the way when I put my hands there.  Thinking of 
trying bar end shifters.  Does anyone use Bosco/bar end shifter combo?  How 
do you like it?

On that note, if anyone has a pair of beat up old bar end shifter going 
cheap, I'd be interested in buying.   Want to use those for a while before 
investing in new ones. 

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Saturday Mark]

My Ram is same color. I think the year is 2003-2004. I don't recall 
exactly. This looks like a solid build and the 1000-1500 range seems about 
right. (Although it would take more than that for me to let go of mine) 
These are japan made, and the color is beautiful.

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:57:21 PM UTC-7, James Copp wrote:
>
> Hi friends,
>
> I am seeking help appraising a Rambouillet, and looking for details on the 
> frame in regards to year made and location.  A friend has offered to sell 
> me his 58cm Rambouillet before he posts it publicly.  It includes
> Nitto Stem
> Nitto Bars
> Velo Orange Seat Post
> Brooks Saddle
> New Shwalbe Tires
> Mavic Open Pro Rims
> Ultegra derailurs
> Tekrto R538 Brakes
> Its an 8 speed in the back, 3 in the front
>
> The frame has cosmetic damages
>
> What is a fair price for this ride?  I am new to the Rivendell world. 
>  Thank you.
>
> (I attached a photo)
>

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[RBW] FS: BarSack anyone?

[Ryan M.]

I had this setup on my Sam Hillborne. It’s incredibly well made and totally 
useful.

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[RBW] Re: Weight weenie report. Dia Compe 980 brakes

[Paul Clifton]

Got it. I noticed the canti clarification as I clicked post, but I still 
wasn't sure why it mattered. Makes sense now. My canti conversion to 622 is 
the worst stopping bike I have, but there are so many potential reasons for 
that (pads aren't nice, cable hangers are whack, straddle cable hanger is 
also whack, cables haven't been adjusted since I built the bike, etc.). 
I'll try adjusting things before I write it off. The pads hit the rim just 
fine at least. I'm using some of those old Shimano cantis that everyone 
recommends. Anyway, I'll keep the MA in mind when I adjust things, but no 
need to share photos of my brake butchery at the moment. Sorry for 
derailing the thread.

Paul

On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 5:31:20 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Paul 
>
> Please don't misunderstand me.  I specifically referred to converting from 
> 27" to 700c on cantilever equipped frames. If the cantilever posts are in 
> the right place for 630mm rims, you have to run the pads quite low for 
> 622mm rims and the mechanical advantage gets all messed up, forcing 
> compromises on braking performance, or brake feel, or brake equipment 
> choices or brake setup choices or some/all of the above.  If you want me to 
> comment on your two bikes, I'd be happy to look at your photos and run the 
> numbers.  Basically, you'd want to start with a bike that was built wrong 
> (in the right way).  
>
> Don't confuse my comment with a general statement about 27" to 700c 
> conversions.  For centerpull and sidepull brakes, I think it's usually 
> straightforward and usually awesome.
>
> Bill
>
> On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 2:07:10 PM UTC-7, Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> Hey Bill,
>>
>> What are the compromises converting 27 to 700?
>> I've never had a problem with it, and I can fit fatter tires, but I've 
>> only done it to a couple bikes.
>>
>> Paul in ATL
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 2:15:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> I have no specific thoughts about the 980 suitability for a 630 to 622 
>>> conversion.  My general thoughts are that 630 to 622 conversions with 
>>> cantilever brakes are always massively compromised, and I'd personally 
>>> never bother with such a project.  If I was helping a friend who was 
>>> dead-set on such a project, I would use vintage style brakes that use post 
>>> style brake pads.  Like from my parts box I have some vintage Shimanos that 
>>> I'd try.  
>>>
>>> Bill 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 10:50:33 AM UTC-7, John G. wrote:
>>>
 Any thoughts on the vertical adjustability of the pads?  Wondering if 
 they’d suit a 27inch to 700c conversion. I guess Canti post spacing is 
 also 
 an issue that is have to consider.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Greg J]

I agree with the other comments.  I think the Rambouillet is a tremendous 
value these days, because it is not as fashionable, with their caliper 
brakes and level top tubes. Riv seems to have evolved in their design away 
from this look.

But they can fit pretty wide tires (35-ish) and handle beautifully. And 
made by Toyo, which is a top notch framemaker.  And it looks very clean and 
well-taken-care-of.  I'd say $1000 is a steal, $1250 is a fair deal, and 
even at $1500 well worth it if you like everything on it.  The Ritchey 
cranks are low-Q and very nice.  Those Ultegra/OP wheels are (again) not 
the current fashion necessarily but are solid great wheels and fine for up 
to 35mm tires.  

Full disclosure--my wife has that same color Ramb with similar components, 
and she loves hers.   

Good luck!
Greg in Oakland

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:57:21 PM UTC-7, James Copp wrote:
>
> Hi friends,
>
> I am seeking help appraising a Rambouillet, and looking for details on the 
> frame in regards to year made and location.  A friend has offered to sell 
> me his 58cm Rambouillet before he posts it publicly.  It includes
> Nitto Stem
> Nitto Bars
> Velo Orange Seat Post
> Brooks Saddle
> New Shwalbe Tires
> Mavic Open Pro Rims
> Ultegra derailurs
> Tekrto R538 Brakes
> Its an 8 speed in the back, 3 in the front
>
> The frame has cosmetic damages
>
> What is a fair price for this ride?  I am new to the Rivendell world. 
>  Thank you.
>
> (I attached a photo)
>

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[RBW] FS: BarSack anyone?

[Christopher Wiggins]

Here's another example of something that's been here for a while and, 
(apparently) no longer available.  

As always, thanks for taking a look.

Chris
A1 Cyclery

https://a1cyclery.com/product/sackville-barsack-olive/

and the corresponding Nitto rack.

https://a1cyclery.com/product/nitto-f15-bag-support/


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Re: [RBW] WTB: Hillborne in Sage Color, 62cm or 64cm

[Reid Echols]

Standover is usually measured at the actual top tube in the rough center 
between seatpost and stem, if I remember correctly. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Jim Bronson]

This frame is a good 650b conversion candidate, or Bon Jon Pass with no
fenders.  Build looks like high quality parts.  I'd agree in the
$1000-$1500 range, the better the paint, the higher in that range it would
be worth.

On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 11:09 AM Richard Rios 
wrote:

> I'd say between 1000-1500$. The Ram is a tremendous value IMHO. Especially
> if you compare it against Rivs current road offerings. Might also just be
> me and I know there has been talk that all frames are the same
> quality...but just from a totally novice looking from the outside
> perspective the couple of toyo made frames I have seemed nicer...I
> personally would rank them Toyo, Tawain / maxway?, waterford... I'd say buy
> it and dont look back. I know the uber fat road tires are the momentary
> cats meow but a nice 32-35 road tire on a great road bike will always have
> its place. Just my .02.
>
> Best
> Richard
>
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Re: [RBW] WTB: Hillborne in Sage Color, 62cm or 64cm

[Jim Bronson]

I had a sick wife and a newborn baby then and I just didn't see it soon
enough.  I would have snapped it up in a second if I had seen it.

On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 9:28 PM Kainalu V.  wrote:

> working link, I think, maybe-
>
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_source=digest_medium=email#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/fs$2064$20hillborne%7Csort:date/rbw-owners-bunch/Y7Nb7-tGXOE/xd0qxcVXFwAJ
>
> On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 10:21:02 PM UTC-4, Kainalu V. wrote:
>>
>> It was crickets back in 2016,
>> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?utm_source=digest_medium=email#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/FS$2064$20Hillborne$20$20/rbw-owners-bunch/Y7Nb7-tGXOE
>> I guess folks may have been wary of a repaired frame... sold for a song,
>> wish I still had it set up as a racer.
>> -Kai
>> BKNY
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Hillborne in Sage Color, 62cm or 64cm

[Cody Bartz]

Is the stand over height calculated at the actual top top with the 6 degree 
slope, or the theoretical top tube?

- Cody

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 7:50:06 PM UTC-4, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> On Thu, Aug 23, 2018 at 3:53 PM Cody Bartz  > wrote:
>
>> Thank you Kainalu and Reed. According to the geometry charts, the 
>> Waterford Sam, size 64cm, has a stand over height of 91.5cm. The current 
>> Sam, size 62cm, has a stand over height of 90.5. Is that 1cm difference 
>> going to feel much different? In the 64cm Sam, the top tube appears to be 
>> 2cm longer, and the chain stays are 1cm shorter. 
>>
>
> Ah, good point Cody! I forgot that unlike my Hilsen the current Sam has a 
> 6° sloping top tube. The 62cm 6° New-Sam has the same theoretical 62.5cm 
> top tube as my 65cm 1.5° Waterford-Hilsen. Should get the bars up just 
> about as high and fit just about the same. I got it wrong, I bet you'd fit 
> just fine on the 62cm New-Sam. (And I bet I would too!)
>
> You're right about the longer top tube on the 64cm Waterford-Sam compared 
> to the 62cm New-Sam. All other things being equal (and all bodies being 
> proportional) the longer TT'd 64cm Waterford-Sam might be predisposed to 
> work a bit better with upright bars, and the shorter TT'd 62cm New-Sam 
> might be preferable for drop bars. But I suspect both would work out with 
> either. 
>
> All that said, bear in mind what Grant said on the old Rambouillet flyer:
>
> "The least useful [fit information], yet most likely to be harped on, is 
> top tube length. You cannot compare bikes by top tube length unless seat 
> tube angles and head tube height and steerer length are exactly the same."
>
> Of course he's right. The Hilsen I'm building only needed a 1cm shorter 
> stem to put the bars in the same place as my custom Fitz, which has a 2cm 
> shorter top tube!
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Richard Rios]

I'd say between 1000-1500$. The Ram is a tremendous value IMHO. Especially if 
you compare it against Rivs current road offerings. Might also just be me and I 
know there has been talk that all frames are the same quality...but just from a 
totally novice looking from the outside perspective the couple of toyo made 
frames I have seemed nicer...I personally would rank them Toyo, Tawain / 
maxway?, waterford... I'd say buy it and dont look back. I know the uber fat 
road tires are the momentary cats meow but a nice 32-35 road tire on a great 
road bike will always have its place. Just my .02.

Best 
Richard

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[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[lconley]

Cyclofiend has a page on touching up Rivendells - "RBW Touch-up Paint 
Recommendations", but I believe that it mostly has color recommendations 
for the earlier bikes. I don't know how to create a link.

Laing
Cocoa FL


>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ash]

Has anybody found a way to mount Surly 8 pack rack on a Riv?




On Tuesday, 14 August 2018 16:16:51 UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Jock Dewey]

Ooops! Sorry...this is RBW! 

What WAS I thinking? I guess: not.

JD

On Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:39:39 AM UTC-4, Jock Dewey wrote:
>
> Hey, RAMBob:
>
> Looks like an older one, from the shop in Japan. You also forgot to 
> mention LOGIC chainset, and by looks of markings, ridden quite carefully. 
> Chips don't show in pix, so must be incidental. 
>
> I think enough of mine that JB repainted it a couple years ago...absolute 
> perfection so far as it exists. Now 14 years old and better than ever. BTW, 
> I've comfortably installed 35mm Bon Jon Pass on OP rims with P45 mudguards, 
> too. Probably even more room with Honjo...tho 35s seem just too wide for my 
> sensibilities here. The RAM sweet spot is 32 IMHO.
>
> My son in LA recently found one for $1600, but it was 'as new'. Not a 
> blemish on it. He didn't steal it, but might as well have.
>
> BEST / Jock Dewey / Athens, GA
>
>
>
> On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 8:57:21 PM UTC-4, James Copp wrote:
>>
>> Hi friends,
>>
>> I am seeking help appraising a Rambouillet, and looking for details on 
>> the frame in regards to year made and location.  A friend has offered to 
>> sell me his 58cm Rambouillet before he posts it publicly.  It includes
>> Nitto Stem
>> Nitto Bars
>> Velo Orange Seat Post
>> Brooks Saddle
>> New Shwalbe Tires
>> Mavic Open Pro Rims
>> Ultegra derailurs
>> Tekrto R538 Brakes
>> Its an 8 speed in the back, 3 in the front
>>
>> The frame has cosmetic damages
>>
>> What is a fair price for this ride?  I am new to the Rivendell world. 
>>  Thank you.
>>
>> (I attached a photo)
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Handbar -- Albatross, Choco Norm or Soma Oxford

['jeffrey kane' via RBW Owners Bunch]

(cross Post from internet-bob)

Hey all — I’m looking for an upright swept back 25.4 clamp bar that accepts 
bar end shifters. Either of the three named above would be great for me — 
it’s for a back-up build so I’m open and will consider alternate 
suggestions that fit the bill as well.

Many thanks / jsk (10024 area code)

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[RBW] Re: Seeking recommendations for builder to make yet further modifications to my 2003 Rivendell

[S. Greco]

Bilenky does nice work. They did modifications to my Riv.
If you have them do the mods you may as well have them paint it - their 
paint work is fantastic.

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[RBW] PSA: sweet frame for tall person

[Reid Echols]

Thanks Keith! Keeping an eye on it, and fingers crossed. 

Reid in Austin

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[RBW] Re: Seeking recommendations for builder to make yet further modifications to my 2003 Rivendell

[phil k]

Bilenky and Norther come to mind.

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:30:07 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Cross posting on purpose.
>
> I've had this frame modified twice, and while the 2 local builders did 
> what I asked them, I want to ask more, and I want a builder with a 
> reputation for painstaking care, and for anticipating problems. That is to 
> say, I want a builder who will be more proactive than our local ones.
>
> In particular, I want better fender fit; thus, I'd want to move the rear 
> brake bridge a 3d time for more fender clearance; have the threaded fender 
> bosses under bridge and fork crown repaired; have canti/V-brake bosses 
> installed; and perhaps have another fork made with more fender clearance.
>
> I may have a few other minor details done too, which we're at it.
>
> I'll need sound advice on the result to the metal of so many 
> modifications, and I'd like to deal with someone who can look, listen, and 
> advise with a pretty good chance of anticipating all the things that I 
> didn't anticipate at times 1 and 2
>
> As for painting, another powdercoat is fine; I care much less about paint 
> than about ride and how a bike fits together.
>
> I expect to have frame shipped both ways.
>
> Please reply offlist.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
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>

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[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[Lum Gim Fong]

You could call RBW. In some ramblings Grant stated Atlantis was a testors 
#whatever. He may know the testors/Duron/Imron # for the mustard you have.

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[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[Lum Gim Fong]

I vote for clear. Looks better than a closebutnotquitematching “same” color 
nail polish. Clear keeps frame color uniform, while a slight color attempt 
mismatch jumps out at the eye. I have never seen an exact match pulled off 
before...wait a second...if it was an exact match I would not be able to see 
the cover up, so how would I know it was pulled off.

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[RBW] Seeking recommendations for builder to make yet further modifications to my 2003 Rivendell

[Lum Gim Fong]

Here on the east coast Bilenky in PA has a very good rep and I know my local 
LBS sends steel frames to them for repairs.

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