[RBW] Re: FS: Gunnar Crosshairs '11 Frame/Fork/Complete 62c-t x 59.5c-c

[Paul Brodek]

Still looking for a new home.

On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 12:08:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Nibbles are none, so price reduction to $1,250 
>
> On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 9:53:40 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>> Gunnar Crosshairs '11 62c-t st x 59.5c-c ht: $1,400 picked up w/in 50mi 
>> of NYC Metro area; I'm not considering shipping at the moment due to hassle 
>> and covid stuff...
>>
>> This is a very low-mileage 2011 Gunnar Crosshairs frame and matching 
>> steel fork, with complete 1x build, Charcoal Silver (kinda Gray). Very nice 
>> rider, I just have too many very similar bikes and not enough trail/gravel 
>> to justify having so many. And need $$$ to land my white whale...
>>
>> Original build/spec sheet attached. Basic dims:
>> ST: 62.0cm c-t, 56.5cm c-c, 60.6cm theo
>> TT: 59.5cm c-c
>> HT: 189mm
>> Stack: 632mm
>> Reach: 401mm
>> Saddle Height in Pix: 81cm
>> Standover: 34"
>> BB Drop: 70mm
>> 130mm x 100mm; QR
>> 27.2mm post
>> ST: 73-deg
>> HT: 72.5-deg
>> Tire Clearance: true 700x38mm max at rear
>>
>> The Crosshairs has been in Waterford's/Gunnar's line for a long time. I'm 
>> not familiar with the early geometry, this one is what I'd call 'crovel? I 
>> just made that up...Quick enough for 'cross, but a little more groad-ish 
>> and versatile than a true 'cross race frame; road-like 70mm bb drop i/o 
>> true-cross 55-65mm, for example. Creature comforts like dual bottle cages, 
>> "normal" cable routing, rack/fender bosses (but not under seatstay bridge 
>> or crown), brazed-on rear housing stop. I think current spec fits a little 
>> wider tire, and drop is increased to 75mm. 
>>
>> Rides/handles very nicely, both on tarmac and trail. We don't have gnarly 
>> gravel around here, but we do have upjutting, sharp and annoying Jersey 
>> rocks; Crosshairs handles it all well.
>>
>> I've got well under 1,000mi on it, after almost 10yrs, so, yeah, too many 
>> damn bikes. One small paint chip on the top of the drive-side chainstay, a 
>> smaller one on the non-drive side, and a very thin scratch-line from the 
>> top of a front derailleur scratch. Otherwise pretty much clean and sparkly 
>> like new. No dents, dings, scrapes, pings, pecks, yadda yadda yadda.
>>
>> Majority of the parts are either new or near-new, mostly unused.
>>
>> Built 1x with medium-high parts:
>> SRAM Rival 11spd 1x brifters (near-new)
>> SRAM Rival 2.1 rder - GX (near-new)
>> Shimano FC-700 crankarms 175mm; 36t ring w/BBG bash guard (near-new)
>> SRAM 1171 11spd chain (near-new)
>> SunRace 11-32 11spd cassette (new)
>> Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs/H+Sons Archetype rims (near-new; one small 
>> fell-over ding on rear rim, non-drive side)
>> Vuelta qr skewers (new)
>> Panaracer Pasela 700x35 tires (new)
>> Avid Shorty Ultimate cantis (clean)
>> Thomson Elite seatpost (some marks/zigs)
>> Specialized Toupe saddle 155 (some wear)
>> Thomson seatpost collar (near-new)
>> Nitto B-177/Noodle 48cm bars (light marks)
>> Nitto UI-5GX stem 110mm (near-new)
>> Tektro cross levers (near-new)
>> FSA sealed headset
>> Shimano BB-R60 bb
>> Generic-ish pinned platform pedals
>> What'd I forget?
>>
>> A new Crosshairs frame/fork is $1,450 these days, not sure how long 
>> Waterford's queue is at the moment. 
>>
>> Some pix and stuff attached, flickr albums here:
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsjDFzZCu (this one has more pix, included prev 
>> builds)
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50120053868_7a8e9eab2d_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120055443_c7ce81462a_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120056733_1405c28eb7_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120620976_45274a6dc3_c.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

Matthew (and up to 5 or 6 others I suppose), if possible please email / 
private message me where to ship it to. 

Made up an extra tonight after replacing my original metal bit. Slightly 
thicker brass, it’s 2mm wide by 1mm thick but by bending it to a round 
shape it bulges just enough to be a VERY tight fit. So I ground a thin 
layer off one side and it fits a charm. Super glue is probably unnecessary 
but I used a bit anyhow. Removal after the original pieces was glued there 
probably made fitting this version a bit harder, but not bad. I’ll ship to 
anyone willing to try it and report their results. 

If I could start over or for a future build, I want to have a set of 
friction 2x9 drivetrain; 46/30 GRX double, 11-42t sunrace cassette, Sora 
8-speed model double front derailer, and this SRAM GX 10-speed rear 
derailer. Could just as well make it a 1x11-46t setup.

I was eyeballing the Silver 2 shifter for similar treatment on my Cheviot, 
but that’s a project for another day (or for a Platypus!).

Abe

On Monday, 27 July 2020 at 16:29:13 UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:

> Abe,
>
> I'd gladly send you some bucks for material, shipping etc to try it out.
> I'm trying to get hot on this stuff with one bike to sell and one bike to 
> build.
> And I've been on the fence about which shifters to lose on the bike for 
> sale and what to keep.
> This/these could influence my decision.
> Please send me a private message with your paypal etc. if you are inclined.
>
>
> Here is some copy and paste (can use to find the actual thread) where I 
> got that Shimano 600 lever bit of info:
>
> ~~~
> Peter Trasko
> 6/8/17
> Resurrecting an old thread, but I made a chance discovery that may be of 
> interest to the group.
> One limitation of friction-shifted 10 and 11 speed bikes has been the 
> throw length of bar-end shifters. Some people have gotten around this 
> problem with judicious filing of the bar-end pods, like Ultraromance did 
> here with this amazing ride.
> I'm here to tell you that this filing isn't necessary.
> I mounted late-model Shimano 600 downtube shifters (these ones) on generic 
> Shimano bar-end pods. These shifters, on these pods, will pull through a 
> full 180 degrees. On a 10 speed cassette they move a little over 90 
> degrees. I haven't tried 11 (or 12), but I guarantee that it will work. How 
> do I know? With the chain removed and the derailler limits backed all the 
> way out, the shifter will easily pull the derailler into the wheel and 
> beyond. These shifters are also truly "light action", in that you can 
> easily move them by tiny increments. With 10 speed you just never miss a 
> shift.
> Hope this helps! I'm friction shifting a mega-wide-range system of various 
> parts and just loving it. In the rear I have a 10-speed 11-42 cassette. In 
> the front I use a SunXCD 26-46 double. Altogether I can pull my kid trailer 
> up alpine passes (I live in Switzerland) and my top speed is about 40km/hr 
> - which I can only reach on steep descents. I have the range I need!
>
> ~~~`
>
> Good stuff.
> -Matthew
>
>
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020 at 4:14:57 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> thank you for offering to send me one.  That's not necessary.  If I need 
>> something like it I'll want to do my own work anyway...  Offer it up here 
>> for the less fabricationally inclined.  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 8:20:53 PM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> Took a quick spin tonight: it works a dream, could be a tiny fraction 
>>> thicker but as is it leaves a meaningful amount of extra lever movement 
>>> range before it’s stopped by the limit screws at the derailer. It could 
>>> move the derailer another 5mm plus for top or bottom gear (enough to shift 
>>> off the bottom or over the top gear if not stopped by the limit screws). 
>>>
>>> Thanks Bill. I’ll send you one myself (shout me where you’d like it sent 
>>> by email). 
>>>
>>> I’m going to fix up another that’s a nicer finish and very tight fit so 
>>> the glue or epoxy will almost unnecessary. 
>>>
>>> Abe
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Clark Fitzgerald]

It sounds like you're on a budget, and you know what bike you *actually* 
want. In 2007 I wanted a touring bike, but the Rivendell's seemed too 
expensive. I've spent thousands of dollars going through 5-7 different 
bikes and frames, wheeling and dealing, swapping stuff, upgrading 
components, never really satisfied. Now in 2020, I bought the bike I should 
have purchased in the first place. I wish that I would've just bit the 
bullet and bought the right bike in the beginning. That money spent along 
the way seems like a waste now, but it did help develop my tastes.

If you do buy a bike I would get the one that has the most similar sized 
components and geometry to your dream bike, so that eventually you can just 
move the parts to a new frame. That's why I still have a very nice 26" 
handbuilt dynamo wheelset. Wanna buy it? :)
On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:56:11 PM UTC-7 Ray wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> First time poster, but I've been lurking for a few weeks now and really 
> enjoy seeing the community you have here and all of your beautiful bikes. 
>
> I was hoping to gauge some opinions or get some suggestions from some of 
> you on a Riv-style build that I am hoping to put together soon. 
> Unfortunately, I'm not currently in a financial position to own a real 
> Rivendell, but because I have such an affinity for the style of bikes and 
> philosophy behind them, I'm planning on building something that can play 
> the role until the day comes that I can have the real deal. 
>
> Presently, I am choosing between two bikes that are listed for sale in my 
> area: one is a 1983 Specialized Expedition and the other is a 1992 
> Bridgestone XO-2. 
>
> In one corner, we have one of the most well-renowned, production touring 
> bikes ever made, and in the other, a brainchild of the man himself. 
> Ultimately, I don't feel like I could go wrong with either, but I wanted to 
> present this to you fine people to see if you have any thoughts or have 
> experience with either or both of these bikes.
>
> Because I already have a road bike that I would be more inclined to take 
> for longer, faster rides, the purpose of this bike would mainly be for 
> commuting and more leisurely rides around town with my partner. It would be 
> outfitted with racks, fenders, and a dynamo set up. Also, regardless of 
> whether I decide to go with the Expedition or not, I am planning on using 
> some kind of upright or swept-back bars. Basically this: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/35377964@N06/3337138600/in/album-72157614731857771/
>
> Given that both bikes are my size and both cost around the same price, my 
> pro/con list looks something like this: for the Expedition, it was not 
> designed to ridden as more of a hybrid and so might not handle the way I 
> would like with up-right bars. The XO-2 was, but it doesn't have some of 
> the feature that I like in the Expedition (internal wiring for the dynamo, 
> loong chainstays, mid-fork eyelets for the front rack, and of course a 
> lugged frame without a unicrown fork--looks matter!). For the XO-2, I like 
> the wider tires even if they are 26'. It might mean going a little slower, 
> but this bike isn't being built for speed, and the added comfort of the 
> larger tires would be nice. And then of course, it was actually designed by 
> Grant Petersen to do the kind of riding that I'm describing. If my goal is 
> to create a faux Rivendell, compromising with a prototypical version makes 
> a lot of sense, but I would hate to be the person who sacrifices overall 
> quality for the sake of some kind of cult appeal (even if I have bought in 
> to a certain degree already).
>
> I'm open to any thoughts that you all might have and would love to hear 
> about experiences with one or both of these bicycles.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS- Snow Peak Lite Max Titanium Ultra Lite camping stove

[Bruce Smitham]

Snow Peak Lite Max Titanium ultra lite camping stove in excellent condition. 
Weight is less than 2 oz. $45 plus shipping conus or free local pick up from 
San Diego. Will include the fuel canister if local.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Nathan Mattia]

Hey Ray, 
Until a few months ago, I had both a 1993 XO-2 and a 1983 Expedition in my 
stable.  I sold the XO-2 when I got my Sam Hillborne in March and I’ve 
never looked back.  The X0-2 definitely felt speedier, but my actual ride 
times in my 9-mile loop around my part of St. Louis showed the Expedition 
usually winning out.  I built both up with Albatross bars.  Make sure you 
get a longer stem than I had for my XO-2.

At the end of the day, the Expedition always felt a lot more solid and 
required far fewer adjustments.  Everything just worked, which I found 
amazing on a 37 year old bike.  I had racks on both at different times. 
 The Expedition never even blinked.  Just kept rolling like a Cadillac. 
 The XO could get squirrely with a load.  
Expedition
https://flic.kr/p/2gCLXTc
XO-2
https://flic.kr/p/2gCopwN

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 2:08:45 PM UTC-5 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> A little digging around, this Flickr stream showcasing a XO-2 built a few 
> ways, looks fun.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/134363652@N03/36132440922/in/photostream/
>
> On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:32:53 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Among a variety whose abundance surprised me, the ineffably nice Rene 
>> Herse Elk Pass (~28 mm tho' labeled 32), the Naches Pass (42, labeled 1.8") 
>> and the Rat Trap Pass (~50 I think, tho labeled 2.3"). Also Pasela in 42, 
>> labeled 1.75", and Tioga makes a 42 I think.
>>
>> My new 26" wheel road bike Chauncey #2 is even as we speak having the 
>> fork rebuilt to give proper space under fork crown and fender for a 45, 
>> with the idea that I can use a Naches Pass if I decide I want something 
>> fatter than the Elk Pass.
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 11:25 AM greenteadrinkers  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> ... Not sure what the world has to offer in regards to 26" tires these 
>>> days, something to consider.
>>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS Sackville Trunksack Small - Olive

[Carla Waugh]

If you bought it from me I didn't wash it.

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[RBW] Re: FS Sackville Trunksack Small - Olive

[Huston]

As mentioned, I’m not the original owner, so I don’t know how the bag may have 
been cleaned. With that said, I have two olive Backabike panniers that are 
slightly different in color and noticeably different in texture. Different lots 
of fabric: I suspect this Trunksack follows a similar “thread.”

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61cm Roadini - Orange - Complete - $1000

[David B]

This is sold. Thanks!

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 12:40:38 PM UTC-5, David B wrote:
>
> Bumping and offering other options between frameset and complete.
> Complete as listed - $1000
> Complete with Jitensha bar setup instead of drops - $950
> Frame/fork/headset with wheels and tires - $750
>
> If you're interested in just frame/fork/headset OR anything between this 
> and complete, contact me offlist and we can discuss.
> David
>
> On Thursday, July 30, 2020 at 3:24:38 PM UTC-5, David B wrote:
>>
>> After mulling bike decisions, and working from home for several months 
>> now (and at least until December too for sure), I've had time to play 
>> around with my bike lineup and have decided to pass on my Roadini. It's a 
>> wonderful bike for sure, but my Clem and 650b'd Redwood are a better fit 
>> for the dirt (often muddy) trails around me. And for taller folks, it's 
>> comparable in fit (nearly identical) to my 65cm Redwood - with the 61cm 
>> Roadini actually having higher stack. And it's super comfy - if I could've 
>> fit 47mm 650b tires and fenders in it, I would be keeping the Roadini 
>> instead of my Redwood.
>>
>> Offering this as a complete first. If there's no interest, I may consider 
>> selling it as a frameset and parting it out. Shifting bits are eclectic, 
>> though I think I have more modern parts that I could swap in.
>> Build includes:
>>
>> Riv Roadini Frame/Fork - orange in very nice used condition
>> Sun/Shimano Wheelset - handbuilt recently, Shimano RS400 hubs, Sun CR18 
>> polished silver rims, 36 Sapim 14ga spokes
>> Panaracer Gravelking Tires - 700x38 - new as of last week
>> Sunrace 8-speed cassette
>> Suntour ARX Rear Derailleur - medium/long cage
>> Suntour Accushift Downtube Shifter - set to friction, won't match in 
>> indexed mode - have matching ratcheting left shifter I can include
>> Stock Seatpost
>> Nitto Technomic Stem - 10cm, 26.0mm
>> Velo Orange Grand Cru Drop Bars - 46cm, maes parallel clone
>> Shimano Brake Levers
>> Shimano Medium Reach Brakes - added matching cartridge pad holders/salmon 
>> brake pads
>> Shimano Dura Ace 7410 Crankset - 172.5mm - 43t chainring w/ de-toothed 
>> chainring bashguard - happy to swap this to a double chainring setup
>> VP Pedals
>> Fizik Saddle
>>
>> Photos here when I had it set up with different wheels and less gears: 
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_u6qH3Fynr/
>>
>> $1000 plus shipping - bell not included, pedals/saddle are.
>> This isn't a financially-motivated sale, so I'm likely not too open to 
>> offers, but feel free to send if you think my price is off.
>> Local sale would be preferred - can travel a reasonable distance from the 
>> Chicago area to meet.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Dave Johnston]

The Sam's are supposed to arrive in "September-ish", so if they do the full 
review later in Aug or Sept it will be timely enough as far as Riv is 
concerned. Lately some of the more popular sizes and colors have sold out 
before the frames even arrived, so I'm not sure how much advertising they 
need.

-Dave J


On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 7:52:42 AM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> After watching this video, I jumped over to the Riv site to see what the 
> current spec is on the Sam... and it’s not even on the site. No preorder 
> info or anything. Seems like an opportunity missed.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 650b/700c tires, Campagnolo, Albatross, Sugino, Surly (SF Bay)

[CMR]

Update! Doing a drop off in Berkeley on Tuesday for Alex so let me know if 
I can deliver!

*29” tires*

-Vee Rubber 29x1.95, 120 TPI – brand new in package

-Schwalbe Racing Ralph 29x2.4, EVO evolution Snake Skin – used but lots of 
life. I don’t actually remember getting this tire so let’s call it free 
with the Vee Rubber

-$25 for both tires


*Sugino Triple set up*

-Sugino XD2 triple, 175, aftermarket rings

-Shimano UN-55, 68x118, never installed so not sure about fit, probably 
best with a mountain triple derailleur

-VX clipless pedals

-$45

 

*Shimano Cassettes*

-SLX CS-HG81-10, 11-32, 10 speed 

-Ultegra CS-6500, 12-27, 9 speed

-Both in like-new condition with less than 1 mile. I believe Ultegra was 
mounted for a test ride but taken right off, not sure about the SLX, maybe 
never touched.

-$20 each

 

*DT Swiss Rims*

-XR361 – great and light rims. Includes DT Swiss nipples and washers. 
Disc-only.

-One 28 hole, One 32 hole, brand new in packaging

-$85 for the pair

 

*Surly Krampus fork*

-Fits FAT tires

-Great condition, cut with 21cm of steerer with starnut installed

-$85

 

Pics for all here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/21267164@N02/with/50190228616/

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm Toyo Atlantis

[Drw]

Frame is spoken for. Thanks all

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[RBW] Re: FS Sackville Trunksack Small - Olive

[Joe Bernard]

I don't know that bag's history but I can verify that different generations 
vary in canvas texture. This looks like an older one I had, identifiable by the 
leather being more honey in color than the current dark brown. 

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[RBW] Re: FS Sackville Trunksack Small - Olive

[Applegate]

I'm interested! My only concern is that it looks like it may have been 
machine washed (the rough texture of the canvas doesn't look like the new 
olive bags), which diminishes the weather-proofing of the wax. Do you know 
if that is the case?

Thank you,
AA

On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 08:48:50 UTC-7 Huston wrote:

> Bump and price drop: $70.00, shipping included.
>
> On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 6:53:03 PM UTC-4 Huston wrote:
>
>> For sale is a used small Sackville Trunksack.  A few signs of use but no 
>> issues to mention.  Olive color.  I purchased this from a fellow RBW 
>> member; however, I have a really small front rack, and the attachment 
>> points on this bag didn't work for my setup.  Should work well with 
>> standard front racks from Nitto, VO, etc.  Measurements per Riv: 8" long, 
>> 4.25" wide, 5.5" tall.  $80 (shipping included) via Paypal Friends and 
>> Family.  
>>
>> Photos are available here: 
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--eTxcO9AW4u4K6TuSrp-9ZK-v1safyJ?usp=sharing.
>>   
>> Thanks for looking.
>>
>

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[RBW] Pre-owned Roadeos - expected cost - complete

[Ryan M.]

I think I sold my Roadeo frame set her for a grand, maybe a little more. That 
was several years ago.

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Re: [RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[Jim M.]

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 2:39:27 PM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> Love the colors! Best blues ever.
> What stem is that?
>
> Thanks! Nitto UI-12. RBW is developing a version with a longer quill. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm Toyo Atlantis

[Drw]

Thanks and 
Just to clarify, since i'm getting some questions and maybe didn't word it 
well. it is 1000$ for frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket and tektro cr720 
brakes. Any other parts could be negotiated for more $

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 2:46:31 PM UTC-7 Matt Beecher wrote:

> Nice build. I wish it were a 58cm, and I’d pay for a shop to pack it. 
>
> GLWS. 
>
> Best regards,
> Matt in Oswego, IL

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[RBW] FS: Deore rd, XC Pro shifters, etc.

[Joe Bernard]

This stuff is now Ryan's stuff. Enjoy your stuff, Ryan! 

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[RBW] FS: 56cm Toyo Atlantis

[Matt Beecher]

Nice build. I wish it were a 58cm, and I’d pay for a shop to pack it. 

GLWS. 

Best regards,
Matt in Oswego, IL

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Re: [RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[James Valiensi]

Love the colors! Best blues ever.
What stem is that?

> On Aug 6, 2020, at 2:27 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
> 
> On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:29:45 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
> Yes it's one of the raw finish frames Riv did for a bit before customers 
> freaked out over the rust forming under the clearcoat. I'm not a 
> freaker-outer, I dig it!
> 
> I dug it too until I realized that the rust under the clearcoat would 
> eventually become a hole in the steel. So D painted it blue:
> <49681704486_d09c0a8e8f_o.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> jim m
> wc, ca
> 
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>  
> .
> <49681704486_d09c0a8e8f_o.jpg>

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[RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[ted]

I've got one of those early clearcoated bomadils. Like Joe the spider rust 
doesn't bother me. 
I did trade a few emails with RBW re the clearcoat "issue". My takeaway was 
that it's really a powdercoat "issue", but with colored powdercoat you cant 
see whats going on.
Mine isn't as clean as the one here. I've got what I think is leftover 
brazing flux and other telltale "features" clearly visible under the 
topcoat. 
Someday I might have it bead blasted, get all the minor leftovers cleaned 
up, and go for the full fancy wet paint Joe Bell treatment, but for now I'm 
loving the combination of fancy lug work and slightly brutish industrial 
utilitarian vibe. I feel it's a unique frame with some nice character.
The one here looks very cool too. I am confused about the size though. 
Stated stand over sounds like a 52 but it looked like they gave a bigger 
number for the st length.

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:29:45 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Yes it's one of the raw finish frames Riv did for a bit before customers 
> freaked out over the rust forming under the clearcoat. I'm not a 
> freaker-outer, I dig it! 

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[RBW] FS: Deore rd, XC Pro shifters, etc.

[Ryan M.]

Hey Joe, I’ll take the whole lot if you still have it. I need shifters.  Hit me 
up at ryan dot merrill dot cyclist at g mail

Thanks

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[RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[Joe Bernard]

Yes it's one of the raw finish frames Riv did for a bit before customers 
freaked out over the rust forming under the clearcoat. I'm not a freaker-outer, 
I dig it! 

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[RBW] Pre-owned Roadeos - expected cost - complete

[Matt Beecher]

I think they would be $1500-1800 in decent shape. They might sell fast in this 
market, but I don’t see the price going up that much. I’d think you might get 
someone to spend $2000 if it is high end parts. 

IMO, the boom does not extend to high end classic and vintage bikes. I’d put a 
Roadeo as a classic. 

Good luck,
Matt B
Oswego, IL

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[RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[Paul M]

Not to dwell on it but take a look at picture #15  and the cantilever post 
shows brazing rod. Also look at the bottom bracket picture and zoom in and 
that looks like classic rust under clear coat. Super nice bike in any case. 
You got to love the double top tube!

On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 10:56:47 UTC-7 masmojo wrote:

> I think it's just Silver!? I didn't see any evidence of Brazing rod around 
> the lugs; it looks a little too clean to be clear coated metal even.
>

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[RBW] FS: Deore rd, XC Pro shifters, etc.

[Joe Bernard]

I still have WAY too many parts kicking around here I'll never use again, The 
Great Minimalizing continues:

Shimano Deore SGS T610 "10-speed" rear derailer, this is a DynaSys model and 
won't - I discovered this the expensive way - index your 7/8/9-speed stuff but 
is just dandy with friction. $30 shipped 

Box o' shifters: Suntour XC Pro thumbies, "hard" and "soft" 7 index, I got the 
soft to index an 8-speed Shimano rd/cassette but no promises. 
Another lower-end Suntour rear and a vintage 9-speed-era Shimano XTR front 
clicker. Priced mostly to cover the XC Pro shifters, the others are filler 
maybe you can use someday. $30 shipped

Or take the whole schlamozzle for $55

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zS1nKAdCMyfKGed98

Joe Bernard
Hollaback at joeremi62 gmail com

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[RBW] Re: SS Coupler Military Bike stupid idea?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:56:26 PM UTC-7, Yuhan Wu wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I've decided to add ss couplers to my hunqapiller finally. 
> Because I want a 29er I can easily fly with to mountains/parks or some 
> gravel races like dirty kanza. I was interested in the vintage military 
> bikes which has a hinge on the top and down tubes. These bikes could be 
> folded and carried with shoulder straps by the soldiers. Interestingly, the 
> idea is very similar to the modern couplers. But the vintage hinge locates 
> in the mid point of the top tube while modern coupler is closer to the 
> seatube. I heard one reason making it closer to seattube is for easier 
> boxing large frames. My bike is only 54cm. So that shouldn't be an issue. 


I don't know whether a hinged frame, even if it's a 54cm, will fit in a 
26x26x10 box, because a normal S coupled bike isn't packed as if it's 
hinged at the couplers. Furthermore, if you're portaging your bike, I don't 
know if it needs to have the frame broken down, because AFAIK, 
superhuman Lael Wilcox doesn't ride a collapsible frame and she 
occasionally portages her bike (mostly through trails on her routes that do 
not allow cycling).

I have a S coupled bike, but I have no idea if it's stiffer than a 
non-S twin, because it wasn't converted. However, I imagine a rather big 
chunk of thick-ish metal is probably stiffer than whatever tubing it 
replaced. This will be your case, because you're converting and probably 
won't/can't be redesigning the entire bike to accommodate the stiffer S 
coupled tubes.

Finally, despite owning a S coupled bike, I'll recommend your 
reconsider/reevaluate. if you don't travel a lot, it may not be worthwhile 
to retrofit S couplers. Use bikeflights , 
shipbikes  or something similar. These use 
larger boxes, and you'll spend less effort trying to disassemble/reassemble 
the bike at your destinations. Breaking down a S coupled bike is rather 
involved (30+mins per) because it all has to fit in a small box in a 
particular way. With the bicycle shippers, you can use larger boxes that 
will require less disassembly.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[greenteadrinkers]

A little digging around, this Flickr stream showcasing a XO-2 built a few 
ways, looks fun.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/134363652@N03/36132440922/in/photostream/

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:32:53 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Among a variety whose abundance surprised me, the ineffably nice Rene 
> Herse Elk Pass (~28 mm tho' labeled 32), the Naches Pass (42, labeled 1.8") 
> and the Rat Trap Pass (~50 I think, tho labeled 2.3"). Also Pasela in 42, 
> labeled 1.75", and Tioga makes a 42 I think.
>
> My new 26" wheel road bike Chauncey #2 is even as we speak having the fork 
> rebuilt to give proper space under fork crown and fender for a 45, with the 
> idea that I can use a Naches Pass if I decide I want something fatter than 
> the Elk Pass.
>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 11:25 AM greenteadrinkers  
> wrote:
>
>> ... Not sure what the world has to offer in regards to 26" tires these 
>> days, something to consider.
>>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[S]

If you ever changed your mind, the Redwood would be the hardest to buy 
again, so if it were me, I would keep the Redwood. And I wish I had an 
Appaloosa, so I would opt for (6) sell Clem, keep Redwood, and buy an 
Appaloosa. 

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 10:59:32 AM UTC-7 David B wrote:

> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
> bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
> don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.
>
> With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
> Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
> Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
> setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
> angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).
>
> I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
> 'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
> I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
> I'll be keeping.
>
> I see potential options as:
> 1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
> 2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
> 3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
> 4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
> 5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes
>
> Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the 
> Redwood it'll not be a bargain sale.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
> ~94pbh.
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[Ginz]

Can the Appaoosa give you 2.1" tires plus fenders?  Or do you need an 
Atlantis for that?   The biggest question is can you setup one bike with 
both Albatross and drops and be happy? Will have to do the zero CM stem 
thing and will you be happy with that?

If you can be ok with the 47mm tires, I'd keep the Redwood and get the bars 
you like. 

Maybe pick the one bike, set it up how you want it and see how long the 
honeymoon lasts?  In other words, don't sell unless you've really tested 
your decision for a good while.
I, too, have a bit of identity crises among my bikes and am trying to 
figure it out.

Ginz

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:59:32 PM UTC-4 David B wrote:

> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
> bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
> don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.
>
> With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
> Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
> Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
> setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
> angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).
>
> I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
> 'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
> I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
> I'll be keeping.
>
> I see potential options as:
> 1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
> 2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
> 3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
> 4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
> 5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes
>
> Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the 
> Redwood it'll not be a bargain sale.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
> ~94pbh.
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Schwalbe Supreme 700x35, 2 used tires, 1 tube

[David Wadstrup]

The tires have sold.  Thank you, everyone.


>

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[RBW] Pre-owned Roadeos - expected cost - complete

[Joe Bernard]

A new complete can easily top out at $45-5500 so I would expect to pay at least 
mid-2000 range for a well cared for example. I've seen a few go for less but 
that was before the current bike boom and before they essentially disappeared 
from the used market. 

If you really want a Roadeo and find one in your size, grab it now! 

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[RBW] Pre-owned Roadeos - expected cost - complete

[Lyman Labry]

Hello,
Curious to know what a complete Roadeo is expected to cost.
Thanks
Lyman

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[RBW] Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[David B]

I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.

With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/

What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).

I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
I'll be keeping.

I see potential options as:
1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes

Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the Redwood 
it'll not be a bargain sale.

Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
~94pbh.
Thanks,
David

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[RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[masmojo]

I think it's just Silver!? I didn't see any evidence of Brazing rod around 
the lugs; it looks a little too clean to be clear coated metal even.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hot Waxing Chains

[Patrick Moore]

Paul: Please do report back. I ride in sandy conditions, and used paraffin
wax for years, then a few years ago switched to Molten Speed Wax, which
very definitely lasts longer, but still only a short while before the
chains get noisy. I have no scientific evidence that chain noise means more
wear, but I still use it as a signal to re-lube. I now get about 200 miles
of pavement riding from a chain job compared to 100 from grocery store
paraffin.

If the Smoov product lasts much longer at the expense of a bit of wiping,
and if it doesn't attract grit even when riding in sandy conditions, I will
be very interested.

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 5:45 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:

> Hello Everyone.
>
> I contacted Adam Kerin a few weeks back, who runs Zero Friction. (http://
> www.zerofrictioncycling.com.au). His website's mission is to get the
> lowest friction possible on bicycle chains for bike racing. While that's
> the antithesis to Rivendell, I asked him about the cleanest chain lube that
> doesn't involve waxing, since one side effect of low friction is lubes are
> many are very clean. He wrote a REALLY LONG response, the upshot being he
> likes SMOOV lube. I ordered some and it arrived yesterday!
>
> Adam's recommendation was to wax once, then use Smoov after. Waxing is a
> lot of work, so as an experiment yesterday I just cleaned the hell out of
> one of my chains by sticking it in a big plastic bottle, covering it with
> chain degreaser, and shaking it (Sheldon Brown method). Then went over it a
> second time with a brush and did the same with my drivetrain. Still a
> little grease in the joints of the chain, but shiny clean and not sticky
> for the most part . I'm going to try Smoov today and will report back.
>
> Adam also sells pre-waxed and pre-cleaned chains.
>
> Here's Adam's long response for those of you who want to read it:
>
> "Waxing is by far and way the best but outright treatment if longevity is
> not its main brief and if push re-wax treatments then past about 300km the
> chain will feel and sound very dry and friction and wear ramps up, and
> popping them off for a re-wax all the time may not be feasible for your
> operation.
>
> The best combo is likely to be an initial remove chain and strip clean
> factory grease as per instructions in my wax zen master guide ( factory
> grease needs to come off anyway), and initially wax with msw. Then after
> bikes have done about 200kms move to smoove. Smoove is a very cheap but
> very long lasting per application lube with excellent low wear and
> contamination resistance. A bottle is $25 and lasts a long time – you only
> apply 2 to 3ml per re lube and a re-lube will last about 800km. Re-lube
> technique with smoove is important however, lube needs to be warm (and
> preferably chain as well but it will be ok if not - its just better if it
> is), work in thoroughly by backpedalling about 30 times, then WIPE OFF
> EXCESS THROUGLY, and allow overnight set. Doing this smoove stays very
> clean and not gunky for a good stretch, however every approx. 3000km a
> clean and start over is great if you can.
>
> Many use msw start then smoove for cycling holidays, cross continent races
> etc – it is a great combo – msw negates smooves initial penetration issues.
>
> Have a look at waxing zen master guide and smoove advanced application
> guide – may seem a bit but in reality its easy, and it will help kids learn
> some great skills, and it will deliver the level of low maintenance, low
> friction and very cheap lubricant running costs you are looking for.
> (only issues is both myself and importer are currently out of smoove, but
> more in stock soon… ish…..)
>
> IF one slathers smoove on and doesn’t wipe excess then you will gunk
> things up, but if you apply as per instructions you leave a high performing
> lubricant INSIDE the chain where it is needed, not outside to gather
> airborne dust and contamination and so the outside stays impressively clean
> for an impressive period. With traditional oils / wet lubes ever single
> particle of airborne dust (of which there is a lot, just shine a bright
> torch into the air at night) will stick on contact which is why they go
> downhill very quickly re mess, friction and wear. Don’t even get me started
> on white lightning lubes, they are up there as the worst in the industry.
> You could walk into your pantry right now and randomly mix together
> anything you have in there that is liquid, and you will make a better lube
> than any white lightning product.
>
> Smoove sets to a semi solid plastic state so it is very contamination
> resistant and so wont be phased much by puddles and general airborne
> contamination. If they don’t clock up many miles, you will get a very long
> run out of the msw the smoove lubed chains indeed."
>
>
> Hope this helps, I'll report back.
>
> I may buy one of his cleaned chains and try that out if this doesn't work!
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 10:57:28 PM UTC-4, John 

[RBW] Re: FS: 61cm Roadini - Orange - Complete - $1000

[David B]

Bumping and offering other options between frameset and complete.
Complete as listed - $1000
Complete with Jitensha bar setup instead of drops - $950
Frame/fork/headset with wheels and tires - $750

If you're interested in just frame/fork/headset OR anything between this 
and complete, contact me offlist and we can discuss.
David

On Thursday, July 30, 2020 at 3:24:38 PM UTC-5, David B wrote:
>
> After mulling bike decisions, and working from home for several months now 
> (and at least until December too for sure), I've had time to play around 
> with my bike lineup and have decided to pass on my Roadini. It's a 
> wonderful bike for sure, but my Clem and 650b'd Redwood are a better fit 
> for the dirt (often muddy) trails around me. And for taller folks, it's 
> comparable in fit (nearly identical) to my 65cm Redwood - with the 61cm 
> Roadini actually having higher stack. And it's super comfy - if I could've 
> fit 47mm 650b tires and fenders in it, I would be keeping the Roadini 
> instead of my Redwood.
>
> Offering this as a complete first. If there's no interest, I may consider 
> selling it as a frameset and parting it out. Shifting bits are eclectic, 
> though I think I have more modern parts that I could swap in.
> Build includes:
>
> Riv Roadini Frame/Fork - orange in very nice used condition
> Sun/Shimano Wheelset - handbuilt recently, Shimano RS400 hubs, Sun CR18 
> polished silver rims, 36 Sapim 14ga spokes
> Panaracer Gravelking Tires - 700x38 - new as of last week
> Sunrace 8-speed cassette
> Suntour ARX Rear Derailleur - medium/long cage
> Suntour Accushift Downtube Shifter - set to friction, won't match in 
> indexed mode - have matching ratcheting left shifter I can include
> Stock Seatpost
> Nitto Technomic Stem - 10cm, 26.0mm
> Velo Orange Grand Cru Drop Bars - 46cm, maes parallel clone
> Shimano Brake Levers
> Shimano Medium Reach Brakes - added matching cartridge pad holders/salmon 
> brake pads
> Shimano Dura Ace 7410 Crankset - 172.5mm - 43t chainring w/ de-toothed 
> chainring bashguard - happy to swap this to a double chainring setup
> VP Pedals
> Fizik Saddle
>
> Photos here when I had it set up with different wheels and less gears: 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_u6qH3Fynr/
>
> $1000 plus shipping - bell not included, pedals/saddle are.
> This isn't a financially-motivated sale, so I'm likely not too open to 
> offers, but feel free to send if you think my price is off.
> Local sale would be preferred - can travel a reasonable distance from the 
> Chicago area to meet.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, and I hear distant scuttlebutt that Rene Herse is working on a light,
supple, and of course very expensive 26" knobby.

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 11:31 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Among a variety whose abundance surprised me, the ineffably nice Rene
> Herse Elk Pass (~28 mm tho' labeled 32), the Naches Pass (42, labeled 1.8")
> and the Rat Trap Pass (~50 I think, tho labeled 2.3"). Also Pasela in 42,
> labeled 1.75", and Tioga makes a 42 I think.
>
> My new 26" wheel road bike Chauncey #2 is even as we speak having the fork
> rebuilt to give proper space under fork crown and fender for a 45, with the
> idea that I can use a Naches Pass if I decide I want something fatter than
> the Elk Pass.
>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 11:25 AM greenteadrinkers <
> greenteadrink...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> ... Not sure what the world has to offer in regards to 26" tires these
>> days, something to consider.
>>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Patrick Moore]

Among a variety whose abundance surprised me, the ineffably nice Rene Herse
Elk Pass (~28 mm tho' labeled 32), the Naches Pass (42, labeled 1.8") and
the Rat Trap Pass (~50 I think, tho labeled 2.3"). Also Pasela in 42,
labeled 1.75", and Tioga makes a 42 I think.

My new 26" wheel road bike Chauncey #2 is even as we speak having the fork
rebuilt to give proper space under fork crown and fender for a 45, with the
idea that I can use a Naches Pass if I decide I want something fatter than
the Elk Pass.

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 11:25 AM greenteadrinkers 
wrote:

> ... Not sure what the world has to offer in regards to 26" tires these
> days, something to consider.
>
-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: SS Coupler Military Bike stupid idea?

[Jim M.]

I almost bought one of the BSA paratroop bikes at American Cyclery's garage 
sale one year. They may still have a couple. Cool but kinda wobbly, which 
may be from the hinge being old.

I would think that if you have butted tubes, you'd want the coupler closer 
to the thickest part of the tube. But a real frame builder can probably 
answer that.

jim m
wc, ca

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 8:53:35 AM UTC-7, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:
>
> I've only opinion to share, but I think it doesn't matter where you split 
> the frame, as the S couplers, when properly tightened, will add some 
> rigidity if anything. But that's only based off of what I've seen, not 
> experienced. Experienced coupler pros like Bilenky in Philadelphia would be 
> your best bet at an accurate assessment.
> Enjoy that bike, wherever you decide to cut it in half!
> -Kai

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Re: [RBW] Re: Earl Craig's Atlantis on the Blug

[S]

No worries. I apologize for mistaking your tone. As Paul M found from the 
Grant quote, the reasons seem to be a mix of aesthetics and function. My 
guess is looks came first and possible practical advantages were deduced 
later.

In other words, to fit a second tube at all, a frame has to be larger, 
whatever the reason for adding it. I think that may have more to do with 
the choice than a theoretical increase in stiffness or being able to use it 
as a carrying handle, etc. 

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:13:40 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:

> Sorry that you read that as snarky as It was intended in the complete 
> opposite direction. I meant that everyone has opinions especially on this 
> topic but the only one who actually has the math or the engineering report 
> or whatever they get from the destructive testing of their frames is Grant 
> Petersen. Just like you I always assumed that it was aesthetic choice and 
> happen to fit the size frames that have double top tubes so also have 
> personal experience riding them.
>
>
> *WOBBLY STEEL*: The steel has a deformed surface like a melted candle. 
> The steel has melted from being overheated because of too many joints and 
> too much heat in a concentrated location. I always thought but do not know 
> for sure that it is possible to reverse the annealling benefits of 
> expensive steels during welding/brazing. I am trying to be clear here in 
> text and not snarky.
>
> On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 01:15:29 UTC+8 S wrote:
>
>> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:27:30 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> Riv tests its frames and Grant would have the math on this? I would 
>>> think? *shrug*
>>
>>
>> No need to be snarky. I know Riv tests their frames and that they pass 
>> the strictest test for mountain frames. My point was, I don't know if, *in 
>> the specific case of adding a second top tube*, Grant based his decision 
>> on an actual test, or engineering numbers -- that is, did he run some kind 
>> of defection test, see that the larger frames were *flexing 
>> significantly more than smaller frames* and only then decide to add the 
>> second top tube to these larger frames? I doubt it, which isn't to say he 
>> made a bad decision, I just have no evidence he added the second tube to 
>> solve a *serious, known problem.* That's fine. I think it hurts nothing 
>> and looks cool.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[greenteadrinkers]

Tough choice. 

Personally, I'd get the XO-2, seem's to have more of the "fun" baked into 
the DNA. Kinda perfect for all things local on or off road.
Not sure what the world has to offer in regards to 26" tires these days, 
something to consider.
IMO, save the $$$ and get a Cygolite, a rim brake 26" dyno wheel might not 
have the best ROI, esp. if you plan to move to a Riv. down the road. You 
could always mount the Cygolite low to the front  fork with 
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/mounting-solutions/light-mounts/gino-light-mount/
 and 
as far as front racks go, maybe this might work?: 
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/wald-bosco-basket That 
way you get a basket and a light, all for like around $200, and the basket 
is easy on easy off, sometimes you just don't want to live life surrounded 
by racks, aesthetics aside..., and fork crown aesthetics asideI think 
I'd get the Specialized if I wanted to put in a lot of big paved miles 
carrying a lot of stuff.
Just my 2 cents.
Scott



On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 7:32:50 AM UTC-4 masmojo wrote:

> Having owned an XO-1 for 23 years, I would tell you that the XO-2 is 
> probably quicker than you are giving it credit for. I would definitely go 
> for the XO-2!!
> No question
>
> Bridgestone has cult appeal for a reason, just like Surlys or Crusts have 
> cult appeal, because they bring something unique to the table. It's not 
> just hype. If it were an XO-3 or 4 maybe the other would be better?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

>
> Here's at least part of your dream bike-
>
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bop/d/maplewood-rivendell-carbonomas-fork/7170299767.html
Just a fork? no, not just any fork, it's a good one. A steal at $70?
"Rivendell made these nice steel forks for people who mistrusted carbon or 
wanted bigger tire clearance. 1 1/8 inch steerer, 45 degree rake. It's 6.5 
cm wide at the crown, so it can take a big tire."
 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Hunqapillar 58cm

['Abcyclehank' via RBW Owners Bunch]

57.5cm or 58cm Bombadil available $2200 complete bike on list.  


Don’t appear often.

Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan

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[RBW] Re: Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Brett Callahan]

I wish the albatross were a little wider.  The trick for me has been using a 
very long stem--far longer than what Russ has on his demo bike.  I also run 
them at saddle height, not high like many I've seen.  In that configuration I 
find them to be comfy and like the control. I just put a pair on my MIT 
Atlantis and am going to try a slightly longer than usual gravel ride in them 
this weekend. I usually commute about 9 miles one way in them.  Thinking 30ish 
miles of mixed terrain is a good test.  

The billies didn't work for me, but perhaps I gave up on them too quickly.  I 
tried them on a 12 cm stem with a moderate front load on an overnighter and 
found everything too flexy.  

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[RBW] SS Coupler Military Bike stupid idea?

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

I've only opinion to share, but I think it doesn't matter where you split the 
frame, as the S couplers, when properly tightened, will add some rigidity if 
anything. But that's only based off of what I've seen, not experienced. 
Experienced coupler pros like Bilenky in Philadelphia would be your best bet at 
an accurate assessment.
Enjoy that bike, wherever you decide to cut it in half!
-Kai

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[RBW] Re: FS Sackville Trunksack Small - Olive

[Huston]

Bump and price drop: $70.00, shipping included.

On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 6:53:03 PM UTC-4 Huston wrote:

> For sale is a used small Sackville Trunksack.  A few signs of use but no 
> issues to mention.  Olive color.  I purchased this from a fellow RBW 
> member; however, I have a really small front rack, and the attachment 
> points on this bag didn't work for my setup.  Should work well with 
> standard front racks from Nitto, VO, etc.  Measurements per Riv: 8" long, 
> 4.25" wide, 5.5" tall.  $80 (shipping included) via Paypal Friends and 
> Family.  
>
> Photos are available here: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--eTxcO9AW4u4K6TuSrp-9ZK-v1safyJ?usp=sharing.
>   
> Thanks for looking.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Hunqapillar 58cm

[Jan O.]

Still looking for a 58cm Hunqapillar frameset. If anyone is looking to 
sell, please email me at jan(dot)ottenhof (at) gmail.com

Thanks

Jan
San Francisco, CA


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Re: [RBW] 60cm Orange Cheviot gathering dust anywhere?

[Mark Roland]

I will second the ShipBikes suggestion. Recently they have been coming in 
consistently and often significantly lower than Bikeflights.

On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 1:20:30 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I use ShipBikes - they use FedEx - which is generally under $100 for a 
> complete bike. 
>
> In an attempt to help you guys sort out the PM feature..well..it seems to 
> be gone. What I've been doing is posting my email to sell stuff, but it 
> won't come through with the @ and . if people are reading the list on the 
> Google Groups site. So I do this:
> joeremi62 gmail com
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Earl Craig's Atlantis on the Blug

[Paul M]

>From RBW website Grant says this about the Atlantis frame, "Quirk: The 59cm 
and 62cm have "rainbow" tubes that add style and structure by 
triangulation, and a better lifting tube than a standard top tube." For me 
that means aesthetics and practicality.

On Wednesday, 5 August 2020 at 22:55:18 UTC-7 ted wrote:

> I think the GBW is the stoutest rough stuff loaded camping bike RBW makes, 
> and no double top tubes there.
> So clearly RBW doesn't think twin top tubes or diagatubes or rainbow tubes 
> are the only way to make a large frame with the strength / stiffness they 
> want in a touring bike.
> For some of the frames they choose to go the extra tube route to get the 
> strength / stiffness they want for that model in that size (I presume).
> To my eye the MIT Atlantis is a complete redesign, longer chain stays, 
> more tt slope, who knows what all else is altered from the original.
> I wouldn't be surprised if the existence of the extra tube influenced the 
> choice of tubing specs.
> It may be overly simplistic to assume that all things are equal except for 
> the addition of a whole nother tube.
> It seems possible that the presence (or absence) of an extra tube on a 
> particular model and size of RBW frame tells less about its mechanical 
> properties than some of us tend to think.
>
> If I were in the market for a frame for the uses RBW recommends the 
> Atlantis for, and was tall enough to ride one with a rainbow tube, I 
> wouldn't be second guessing Grant about that tube being an appropriate 
> design choice unless I disliked the way it looks. YMMV of course.
>
> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 3:29:15 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> And yet, the original Atlantis was also meant for loaded touring, 
>> performed splendidly in that role, and lacked the second top tube in all 
>> sizes.
>>
>>
>> On 8/4/20 11:01 AM, Vincent Tamer wrote:
>>
>> The whole point of the Atlantis is that it is meant for loaded touring. 
>> The second tube goes on the bikes for taller riders who are presumably 
>> heavier. That along with a heavy touring load makes the extra tube a good 
>> idea.
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 4, 2020 at 6:58:58 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> You are right that a second top tube will do something structurally; 
>>> there's no avoiding that, and I overstated my own case. But my point is 
>>> that for anything but a very large frame, or for a frame to be ridden by 
>>> someone exceptionally heavy, there's no **practical** purposes served by 
>>> the added tube. 
>>>
>>> Still, that Atlantis frame does look very pretty; far nicer IMO than the 
>>> other models with 2 top tubes; they got the mix of straight and curved just 
>>> right.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 12:07 AM S  wrote:
>>>
 As is my habit, I overstated my case. What I said is technically true, 
 because of physics, but I can believe the real world effect might be 
 negligible. 

 In the back of my mind was the side discussion on here or iBob about 
 the supposed deadness of the Surly Cross Check frame. Some forum members 
 -- 
 me included -- insisted the frame was a dog, no question, while others 
 disagreed. As it turned out, those in the former camp had the 56 and those 
 in the latter camp larger sizes. The theory was floated that maybe the 
 frame "opens up," that is, flexes more, in a good way, in the larger sizes 
 -- and with generally heavier riders -- and that accounted for the 
 difference. To me, this seems plausible. And if it's plausible that a 
 frame 
 could improve in this way, then it also seems plausible that, conversely, 
 some frames could open up *too much* and become too flexy, in larger 
 sizes, 
 thus necessitating some modification to maintain the same relative 
 stiffness as in the smaller sizes. 

 Also in the back of my mind was the experience of my larger cycling 
 friends who seem to break more frames than I ever have. But then, that's 
 anecdotal. 

 I don't know if Grant ran any numbers or did any testing before 
 deciding to add the second tube to some bikes. Could just be for looks, or 
 could be a belt and suspenders kind of thing. Or a mix. But I wouldn't say 
 it's totally off base from an engineering point of view. 

 Anyway, you've ridden more 60 (and maybe 60 plus?) size frames than I 
 have, and if you say you don't feel a difference, then I can't argue. 

 On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 8:27:15 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Not true at all, unless -- perhaps -- you are well over 200 lb and 
> carry heavy loads. I owned and rode a 60 c-c frame extensively -- my best 
> level top tube size is 60 c-c -- and there was no more flex notiher 6- X 
> 56 
> c-cceable than with an 18" mountain bike frame. And this frame was made 
> from standard gauge, and not OS, tubes. 
>
> I currently have another 60 X 56 c-c 

Re: [RBW] Re: Earl Craig's Atlantis on the Blug

[Mark Roland]

That would probably fall under not good, both in the aesthetic department 
and the not ideal for the integrity of the steel department. Are you 
certain it is not a bit of sloppy brazing, or a paint mishap? Can you post 
a photo of the wobbly area?

While you can certainly overheat a tube when brazing or welding, and that 
can affect the tubing to a degree, depending on what kind it is, I don't 
think the heat would be enough to deform the surface in the manner you 
describe. I could be wrong.

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 4:13:40 AM UTC-4, brendonoid wrote:

>
> *WOBBLY STEEL*: The steel has a deformed surface like a melted candle. 
> The steel has melted from being overheated because of too many joints and 
> too much heat in a concentrated location. I always thought but do not know 
> for sure that it is possible to reverse the annealling benefits of 
> expensive steels during welding/brazing. I am trying to be clear here in 
> text and not snarky.
>
> On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 01:15:29 UTC+8 S wrote:
>
>> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:27:30 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> Riv tests its frames and Grant would have the math on this? I would 
>>> think? *shrug*
>>
>>
>> No need to be snarky. I know Riv tests their frames and that they pass 
>> the strictest test for mountain frames. My point was, I don't know if, *in 
>> the specific case of adding a second top tube*, Grant based his decision 
>> on an actual test, or engineering numbers -- that is, did he run some kind 
>> of defection test, see that the larger frames were *flexing 
>> significantly more than smaller frames* and only then decide to add the 
>> second top tube to these larger frames? I doubt it, which isn't to say he 
>> made a bad decision, I just have no evidence he added the second tube to 
>> solve a *serious, known problem.* That's fine. I think it hurts nothing 
>> and looks cool.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[Paul M]

Looks like the frame is just clear coat over raw steel. Not a good 
combination for the PNW.

On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 04:49:35 UTC-7 masmojo wrote:

> Nice, a bit too big for me and I find myself in pretty much the same 
> position. That is, selling rather than buying. 

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[RBW] CLAIMED Re: Rambouillet brochure: Free for shipping

[David Sprunger]

Brochure claimed. Thanks for everyone's interest.
David


On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 5:23 PM David Sprunger  wrote:
>
> Hi. As we continue to downsize, I found a nice color brochure promoting the 
> second generation Rambouillet. If someone is interested, send me a p.m. 
> First-class shipping will probably be between $3-4.
> David Sprunger
> Fargo, ND

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[RBW] Re: Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Chris L]

I have tried the albatross bars several times, on several bikes, including 
my Hunqapillar.  I really, really want to like them but I just can't.  The 
only spot on the bar I found tolerable was at the very front of the curves, 
and I'm not a drop bar rider.  

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 6:43:05 AM UTC-5 masmojo wrote:

> His initial review was pretty much what I expected. 
> Although, it was pretty obvious to me he was grappling with the Billie 
> bars; I noticed he really favored the forward hand position. Being a rider 
> who favors drop bars that was not surprising; it made me think he would 
> probably like some Albastash bars much more! Also I know he favors a 
> smaller frame, but maybe some of his reach issues stem from it possibly 
> being too small?

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Re: [RBW] Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Eric Daume]

After watching this video, I jumped over to the Riv site to see what the
current spec is on the Sam... and it’s not even on the site. No preorder
info or anything. Seems like an opportunity missed.

On Monday, August 3, 2020, Brett Callahan  wrote:

> I don't know what the reader/viewer overlap between the Riv list and the
> Path Less Pedaled list is like, outside of Michael Mann and myself, but
> damn am I excited by this!
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CDccdhYHoFU/?igshid=phskilu88qw3
> (Link is to their Instagram, I'm mobile right know so you may have to copy
> and paste, apologies)
>
> Anyone know what model this is?
>
> For those unfamiliar, Russ and his partner at Path Less Pedaled do a lot
> of great bike reviews, videos and interviews with Industry folk "on the
> supple side" of cycling, i.e.; they're into non race oriented stuff.  Worth
> your time, I think.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brett in PDX
>
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>

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[RBW] CL outting: Bombadil

[masmojo]

Nice, a bit too big for me and I  find myself in pretty much the same position. 
That is, selling rather than buying. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hot Waxing Chains

[☆ Paul ☆]

Hello Everyone. 

I contacted Adam Kerin a few weeks back, who runs Zero Friction. (http://
www.zerofrictioncycling.com.au). His website's mission is to get the lowest 
friction possible on bicycle chains for bike racing. While that's the 
antithesis to Rivendell, I asked him about the cleanest chain lube that 
doesn't involve waxing, since one side effect of low friction is lubes are 
many are very clean. He wrote a REALLY LONG response, the upshot being he 
likes SMOOV lube. I ordered some and it arrived yesterday!

Adam's recommendation was to wax once, then use Smoov after. Waxing is a 
lot of work, so as an experiment yesterday I just cleaned the hell out of 
one of my chains by sticking it in a big plastic bottle, covering it with 
chain degreaser, and shaking it (Sheldon Brown method). Then went over it a 
second time with a brush and did the same with my drivetrain. Still a 
little grease in the joints of the chain, but shiny clean and not sticky 
for the most part . I'm going to try Smoov today and will report back.

Adam also sells pre-waxed and pre-cleaned chains.

Here's Adam's long response for those of you who want to read it:

"Waxing is by far and way the best but outright treatment if longevity is 
not its main brief and if push re-wax treatments then past about 300km the 
chain will feel and sound very dry and friction and wear ramps up, and 
popping them off for a re-wax all the time may not be feasible for your 
operation.

The best combo is likely to be an initial remove chain and strip clean 
factory grease as per instructions in my wax zen master guide ( factory 
grease needs to come off anyway), and initially wax with msw. Then after 
bikes have done about 200kms move to smoove. Smoove is a very cheap but 
very long lasting per application lube with excellent low wear and 
contamination resistance. A bottle is $25 and lasts a long time – you only 
apply 2 to 3ml per re lube and a re-lube will last about 800km. Re-lube 
technique with smoove is important however, lube needs to be warm (and 
preferably chain as well but it will be ok if not - its just better if it 
is), work in thoroughly by backpedalling about 30 times, then WIPE OFF 
EXCESS THROUGLY, and allow overnight set. Doing this smoove stays very 
clean and not gunky for a good stretch, however every approx. 3000km a 
clean and start over is great if you can.

Many use msw start then smoove for cycling holidays, cross continent races 
etc – it is a great combo – msw negates smooves initial penetration issues.

Have a look at waxing zen master guide and smoove advanced application 
guide – may seem a bit but in reality its easy, and it will help kids learn 
some great skills, and it will deliver the level of low maintenance, low 
friction and very cheap lubricant running costs you are looking for.
(only issues is both myself and importer are currently out of smoove, but 
more in stock soon… ish…..)

IF one slathers smoove on and doesn’t wipe excess then you will gunk things 
up, but if you apply as per instructions you leave a high performing 
lubricant INSIDE the chain where it is needed, not outside to gather 
airborne dust and contamination and so the outside stays impressively clean 
for an impressive period. With traditional oils / wet lubes ever single 
particle of airborne dust (of which there is a lot, just shine a bright 
torch into the air at night) will stick on contact which is why they go 
downhill very quickly re mess, friction and wear. Don’t even get me started 
on white lightning lubes, they are up there as the worst in the industry. 
You could walk into your pantry right now and randomly mix together 
anything you have in there that is liquid, and you will make a better lube 
than any white lightning product.

Smoove sets to a semi solid plastic state so it is very contamination 
resistant and so wont be phased much by puddles and general airborne 
contamination. If they don’t clock up many miles, you will get a very long 
run out of the msw the smoove lubed chains indeed."


Hope this helps, I'll report back. 

I may buy one of his cleaned chains and try that out if this doesn't work!


Paul




On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 10:57:28 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> John
>
> Don't know what the OEMs use ot how the apply it, but agree it's last for 
> about 500M.  
>
> Does TriFlow attract dirt???
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 5:56:10 PM UTC-4, Whatcha Oughtter wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know what’s on chains when they are new out of the box? It 
>> always seems sticky but doesn’t seem to attract too much dirt, is really 
>> smooth and quiet and lasts a long time. After the factory lube is gone I 
>> use tri-flow with pretty good results. I used motorcycle chain lube for a 
>> while that sprayed on thin and penetrated into the nooks and crannies but 
>> dried out thick like a grease. It attracted all kinds of grit and wore out 
>> a chain in very short order. -John
>>

[RBW] Re: Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[masmojo]

His initial review was pretty much what I expected. 
Although, it was pretty obvious to me he was grappling with the Billie bars; I 
noticed he really favored the forward hand position. Being a rider who favors 
drop bars that was not surprising; it made me think he would probably like some 
Albastash bars much more! Also I know he favors a smaller frame, but maybe some 
of his reach issues stem from it possibly being too small?

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[RBW] Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[masmojo]

Having owned an XO-1 for 23 years, I would tell you that the XO-2 is probably 
quicker than you are giving it credit for. I would definitely go for the 
XO-2!!
No question

Bridgestone has cult appeal for a reason, just like Surlys or Crusts have cult 
appeal, because they bring something unique to the table. It's not just hype. 
If it were an XO-3 or 4 maybe the other would be better?

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[RBW] Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[masmojo]

Having owned an XO-1 for 23 years, I would tee all you that the XO-2 is 
probably quicker than you are giving it credit for. I would definitely go for 
the XO-2!!
No question.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Earl Craig's Atlantis on the Blug

[brendonoid]

Sorry that you read that as snarky as It was intended in the complete 
opposite direction. I meant that everyone has opinions especially on this 
topic but the only one who actually has the math or the engineering report 
or whatever they get from the destructive testing of their frames is Grant 
Petersen. Just like you I always assumed that it was aesthetic choice and 
happen to fit the size frames that have double top tubes so also have 
personal experience riding them.


*WOBBLY STEEL*: The steel has a deformed surface like a melted candle. The 
steel has melted from being overheated because of too many joints and too 
much heat in a concentrated location. I always thought but do not know for 
sure that it is possible to reverse the annealling benefits of expensive 
steels during welding/brazing. I am trying to be clear here in text and not 
snarky.

On Thursday, 6 August 2020 at 01:15:29 UTC+8 S wrote:

> On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:27:30 AM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> Riv tests its frames and Grant would have the math on this? I would 
>> think? *shrug*
>
>
> No need to be snarky. I know Riv tests their frames and that they pass the 
> strictest test for mountain frames. My point was, I don't know if, *in 
> the specific case of adding a second top tube*, Grant based his decision 
> on an actual test, or engineering numbers -- that is, did he run some kind 
> of defection test, see that the larger frames were *flexing significantly 
> more than smaller frames* and only then decide to add the second top tube 
> to these larger frames? I doubt it, which isn't to say he made a bad 
> decision, I just have no evidence he added the second tube to solve a 
> *serious, 
> known problem.* That's fine. I think it hurts nothing and looks cool.  
>

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[RBW] Saddle Bag Rack Trade?

[Adam]

Whoops deleted my original post by mistake. Thanks for input about the 
carradice rack Joe. I thought that might be the case. 

I’ve decided I’m going to give the pec dec (from Ron’s bikes) a try for a 
support with my sackville medium saddle bag. Has anyone else used this setup?

I’ll be parting with my nitto r-10 in very good condition if anyone is 
interested. Thanks!

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[RBW] Saddle Bag Rack Trade?

[Joe Bernard]

I used that Carradice rack with one of their bags and wasn't impressed with how 
dang high the rack and bag sat behind the saddle..I couldn't swing my leg over 
it. And yes you're right it's kinda small for your SaddleSack, that "medium" is 
a big bag! 

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