Re: [RBW] Re: WTB 56 QB

[J L]

Yes. A SO would work. 

> On Aug 25, 2020, at 12:55 PM, ted  wrote:
> 
> 
> Just QB or QB/SO?
> 
>> On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 4:37:28 PM UTC-7, J L wrote:
>> Anyone sitting on a size 56 Quickbeam that needs a new home? Let me know 
>> offlist because I would really like to but it. 
>> 
>> Jason
> 
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Billie Bar

[Ash]

Hey Paul,

I have a Billie Bar.  It does have a bunch of scratches because I tried it 
with 7-8 stems before deciding that Boscos work better for me.   If you 
have 52cm ALU Bosco, I'd be happy to trade (assuming the scratches won't 
bother you)

Cheers,
Ash

On Sunday, 23 August 2020 at 08:21:56 UTC-7 ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:

> Does anyone have a Billie bar they'd like to sell?
>
> Happy to pay for it, or can trade a Bosco aluminum, Choco, or North Road 
> bar for it! 
>
> THANK YOU!
>

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands and Clems

[brendonoid]

Sorry I wasn't clear. Rivendell had kickstand plate failures with the 
double leg plescher back when their kickstand plates were much thinner than 
they are now. I doubt the current plates would have a problem.
I just measured and the old plates are 0.9 to 1mm and the new plates are 
3mm. Huge difference. My personal experience is that the old plates twisted 
quite easily. Even the single legs could bend them if you were carrying a 
lot (too much) of cargo.
On Tuesday, 25 August 2020 at 21:57:52 UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:

> Yes, I can understand the mounting bolt or the kickstand legs, but not the 
> plate. At least not the one on my Clem. I guess if the plate is not beefy 
> enough it could be an issue. Definitely want to design it so that if 
> anything, the kickstand itself fails before any deformation of the frame is 
> possible. Maybe they should rate kickstands like some racks are rated.
>
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 12:53:50 AM UTC-4, brendonoid wrote:
>>
>> ... even with totallly over built kickstand mounts, the twisting action 
>> during deployment would always eventually kill the kickstand, whether it 
>> sheared the mounting bolt or the legs of the kickstand itself.
>
>
>> On Tuesday, 25 August 2020 at 10:18:52 UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>>> I am confused by this. I can't imagine the weight of a kickstand 
>>> "ripping" a welded kickstand off of any bicycle. Not to mention what is the 
>>> point of a kickstand plate if it can't handle a kickstand, double or knot. 
>>> I assume you don't mean weight of the kickstand but maybe fully weighted 
>>> kickstand.  But even if people were sitting on the bike with the kickstand 
>>> down--which I hope Riv riders would understand is not generally a good 
>>> practice--I can't fathom how the plate would be riven from the frame before 
>>> one of the legs would give way on the kickstand itself. If it did, are we 
>>> sure it wasn't some perfect freak storm that happened once? Or are these 
>>> kickstands and the pivots super strong, and acting like a pry bar on the 
>>> plate? Still hard to picture. Maybe a batch of faulty kickstand plate welds.
>>>
>>> By the way, my double clears a 650B x 2.25 Thunder Burt no problem. I 
>>> guess it's maybe not a Pletcher, it's black and reads "Massload." It came 
>>> with a used Clem and I transferred it to my new Clem. Works great so far.
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 7:59:43 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:

 A few years back there reports of the weight of the double kick stand 
 ripping the Kickstand plate off of Rivendell bicycles, so you should 
 actually mount it with the long bolt and chainstay sandwich, not the 
 shorty 
 bolt directly to the plate. I suspect part of the problem may have been 
 people sitting on the bike with the kickstand down, but Riv stopped 
 selling 
 them after reports of frame damage.

 -Dave

 On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 10:16:46 AM UTC-4, Alex K wrote:
>
> Just got my Clem L rolling and I'm pretty smitten.  The handling on 
> curves and general comfort level are fairly astounding.  I do have a 
> Nitto 
> Campee 34F with a hardware-less Wald 157 basket mounted on the front for 
> larger loads (laundry, pizza, etc.). What I'm wondering here is if anyone 
> has any experience with the double kickstand on a heavier/loaded bike.  I 
> didn't love the single Pletscher kickstand that came with the bike and am 
> considering a Pletscher or Velo Orange double stand.  Any thoughts?  
> Thanks 
> for reading.  
> Alex
>


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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Roberta]

64 cm qiuckbeam   Washington, DC. $1,175. I think it’s a dark orange. Not 
related to seller. 

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/bik/d/riverdale-rivendell-quickbeam/7180873311.html

Up for sale is my 64cm Rivendell Quickbeam. This very rare bike is in great 
condition, and has been one of my favorite all time bikes. I am selling since I 
have finally accepted that the bike (64 cm) is too large for me, and am hoping 
I can sell it to someone who will ride it more often. 

This one/two speed bike is a unique configuration with a single speed rear hub, 
with a front double crankset and horizontal dropouts to allow for changing the 
gears (manually). Grant Petersen designed this as a single speed that has a 
bailout gear in case things go bad on a ride. 

Components are pretty stock, with Sugino crankset, stock wheels, Rivendell Jack 
Brown tires, Nitto Noodle bars, beautiful Velo Orange bottle cages, Nitto stem 
and seatpost. The saddle and pedals are not included with the bike. I 
additionally have a few Nitto racks that I could additionally sell if the buyer 
is interested. 

When I bought the bike (probably 10 years ago now) it had a tiny spot of 
peeling paint under the top tube, and the folks at Rivendell recommended 
peeling the paint back, seeing what was under the paint. I did that, and found 
that everything was good. I clear coated the spot to seal it from the elements, 
and there is still a quarter sized clear coated area under the top tube which 
isn’t visible when the bike is upright.

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Joe Bernard]

You might want to let a bike shop dig into this unless you're committed to 
buying two types of BB tools and learning all about it. I'm big on the 
buying and learning, but it's not a small project for a first-timer and 
you're not even sure where the problem is yet. Could be a headache!

Joe "ok now I broke something else, this is getting expensive" Bernard 

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 7:42:47 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
NY) wrote:

> I bought a mountain bike on Craigslist and have been using it with an 
> Xtracycle Free Radical conversion for a few months as a kid hauler and 
> cargo bike. The crankset and bottom bracket it came with are part of the 
> Shimano Hollowtech group: BB is Shimano SM-BB51 
> 
>  and 
> the crank is a Shimano XT two-piece compression thing like this 
> 
>  with 
> a built in spindle. I've been having some issues with the crank creaking 
> and popping when I ride and would like to replace it with something simpler 
> and more classic looking, like a Riv Clipper wide/low 
> 
> . 
>
> Question is, do I have to replace the entire bottom bracket or can I use 
> the SM-BB51 and install a new spindle? The current crankset has a spindle 
> built in/attached.  Would this work? 
> 
>  
> I'm kinda clueless when it comes to this Hollowtech stuff and not sure 
> what's compatible/interchangeable. Thanks in advance. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[Jason Fuller]

Yeah I am very much not sold with the appearance with the drop bars, but I 
am going to run mine with an upright bar (MAP / Ahearne bar, to be exact) 
and I've come around on that. Or, more accurately, I've come to really like 
the look of Gus/Suzie and I can by extension accept the Charlie. 

I would still buy silver, because I want understated, but Riv are masters 
at understated, classy colours so I'm hoping to be wowed, like with the 
Platypus green! 

Eamon - sorry to hear, I hope things turn around soon!  

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:45:23 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

> However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and 
> if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy.
> If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51 
> (or SRAM equivalent), all you need is something like a Park Tool BBT-9.  
> “like” because JTDEAL makes one for less than half that price, etc.
> Save and reuse any spacers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZNJM1Hi7jc
>

Hate to contradict but don't get SRAM BB cups. They are usually GXP which 
is 24mm/22mm instead of the straight 24mm that Shimano Hollowtech cranks 
require. In other words, Shimano Hollowtech cranks won't fit SRAM GXP cups, 
and vice-versa, even though they are visually similar.

I second aeroperf's recommendation of taking a closer look at the BB. 
Hollowtech cranks are easy to disassemble, with a simple 5mm hex wrench, a 
rubber mallet (or a block of wood), and the special tool TL-FC16 for the 
pre-load cap (usually comes with the crank and shops will have excess that 
they may give you for free). Once the crank is out, you can manually feel 
for bearing roughness and determine if the bearings and thus cups actually 
need to come out; if they do, then you'll need the BBT-9 tool. Do note that 
there are plastic sleeves separating the cartridge bearings from the crank 
spindle for Shimano-branded BB cups; there's no metal-to-metal contact. The 
plastic sleeves deform slightly to help in alignment, and they are 
typically what creaks, especially if the bearings are reluctant to spin 
freely.

Good luck!

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[RBW] Re: WTB 56 QB

[ted]

Just QB or QB/SO?

On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 4:37:28 PM UTC-7, J L wrote:
>
> Anyone sitting on a size 56 Quickbeam that needs a new home? Let me know 
> offlist because I would really like to but it. 
>
> Jason

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Matthew Williams]

Atlantis (Waterford) 
51cm 
2499 
Chicago, IL 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293702982295 

Atlantis 
53cm 
2000 
Ft. Collins, CO 
https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/bik/d/fort-collins-rivendell-atlantis/7182940024.html

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[aeroperf]

What Benz said.  It may be from somewhere else - the pedals, or even the 
seat.

However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and 
if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy.
If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51 
(or SRAM equivalent), all you need is something like a Park Tool BBT-9.  
“like” because JTDEAL makes one for less than half that price, etc.
Save and reuse any spacers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZNJM1Hi7jc

They do tend to look like the chainrings were stamped out of old garbage 
can lids, but Hollowtech cranks do have a nice stiff feel.  I’ve put them 
on a Homer, and a couple of other bikes, because I like that feel.



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[RBW] 58 quickbeam on SF CL

[J L]

There is a sweet deal of a green Quickbeam on SF craigslist. The owner says it 
is a 58 but isn't certain. It should be 58cm center of BB to top of seat lug. 
Looks like it to me. 

I found this on my quest for a 56. Anyone want to size up from a 56 to a 58? 

Cheers
Jason

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY)]

Thanks Benz. It's tough to tell exactly where the pops and creaks are 
coming from but it seems to happen only during hard pedaling and kind of 
feels like it's coming from the left (non-drive side) crank arm which is 
attached with hex bolts. The whole crankset has always annoyed me, mostly 
aethetically with this hi-tech look, but I haven't bothered to tinker with 
it too much.  You're right–the Xtracylce extension could be part of the 
popping and creaking as well since it's attached pretty close to the crank 
area. I'll try to do some further investigation especially now that I know 
a crank replacement will require more than just a swap-out. 

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 12:12:12 PM UTC-4 Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:

> Justin, I will suggest investigating what's causing the creaking and 
> popping. Quite often, what appears to be from the crank may not actually be 
> from the crank. Especially with an Xtracycle Free Radical conversion, there 
> are more opportunities for creaks and pops. Unfortunately, troubleshooting 
> such a thing is best done with a bit of experience, so you may need to 
> bring it into a shop.
>
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:01:18 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
> NY) wrote:
>
>> Okay thanks for the info. I'm not equipped or experienced with bottom 
>> bracket replacement which is why I was hoping to salvage what's already 
>> there and not have to remove and replace it. But maybe this is an 
>> opportunity for me to figure it out. Will need to invest in some tools I 
>> assume.
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 11:45:57 AM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:
>>
>>> Justin—
>>>
>>> To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
>>> Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom 
>>> bracket.
>>> The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom 
>>> bracket itself.
>>>
>>> If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset, and replace 
>>> the bottom bracket with a new BB51 or a Shimano BB-MT800.  These things are 
>>> only about $25 and can be replaced reasonably easily with the right tools.
>>>
>>> Are you dead set on the looks thing?
>>>
>>> You need to remove the bottom bracket, and replace the bottom bracket 
>>> with a square taper sealed unit like a UN-26.
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x113-mm/dp/B001EIAZ7A/r
>>>
>>> If it is a dedicated mountain bike, it will need a 73mm sealed unit.  
>>> You will also need to find the right width spindle to keep the chainline at 
>>> 50mm.  Somebody on the list with a  Suzie/Wolbis might help you find a 
>>> spindle, since I’ve heard (but don’t really know for sure) that it has a 
>>> 73mm bottom bracket shell.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Justin, I will suggest investigating what's causing the creaking and 
popping. Quite often, what appears to be from the crank may not actually be 
from the crank. Especially with an Xtracycle Free Radical conversion, there 
are more opportunities for creaks and pops. Unfortunately, troubleshooting 
such a thing is best done with a bit of experience, so you may need to 
bring it into a shop.

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:01:18 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
NY) wrote:

> Okay thanks for the info. I'm not equipped or experienced with bottom 
> bracket replacement which is why I was hoping to salvage what's already 
> there and not have to remove and replace it. But maybe this is an 
> opportunity for me to figure it out. Will need to invest in some tools I 
> assume.
>
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 11:45:57 AM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:
>
>> Justin—
>>
>> To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
>> Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom 
>> bracket.
>> The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom 
>> bracket itself.
>>
>> If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset, and replace 
>> the bottom bracket with a new BB51 or a Shimano BB-MT800.  These things are 
>> only about $25 and can be replaced reasonably easily with the right tools.
>>
>> Are you dead set on the looks thing?
>>
>> You need to remove the bottom bracket, and replace the bottom bracket 
>> with a square taper sealed unit like a UN-26.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x113-mm/dp/B001EIAZ7A/r
>>
>> If it is a dedicated mountain bike, it will need a 73mm sealed unit.  You 
>> will also need to find the right width spindle to keep the chainline at 
>> 50mm.  Somebody on the list with a  Suzie/Wolbis might help you find a 
>> spindle, since I’ve heard (but don’t really know for sure) that it has a 
>> 73mm bottom bracket shell.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY)]

Okay thanks for the info. I'm not equipped or experienced with bottom 
bracket replacement which is why I was hoping to salvage what's already 
there and not have to remove and replace it. But maybe this is an 
opportunity for me to figure it out. Will need to invest in some tools I 
assume.

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 11:45:57 AM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:

> Justin—
>
> To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
> Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom bracket.
> The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom 
> bracket itself.
>
> If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset, and replace 
> the bottom bracket with a new BB51 or a Shimano BB-MT800.  These things are 
> only about $25 and can be replaced reasonably easily with the right tools.
>
> Are you dead set on the looks thing?
>
> You need to remove the bottom bracket, and replace the bottom bracket with 
> a square taper sealed unit like a UN-26.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x113-mm/dp/B001EIAZ7A/r
>
> If it is a dedicated mountain bike, it will need a 73mm sealed unit.  You 
> will also need to find the right width spindle to keep the chainline at 
> 50mm.  Somebody on the list with a  Suzie/Wolbis might help you find a 
> spindle, since I’ve heard (but don’t really know for sure) that it has a 
> 73mm bottom bracket shell.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[aeroperf]

Justin—

To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom bracket.
The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom 
bracket itself.

If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset, and replace the 
bottom bracket with a new BB51 or a Shimano BB-MT800.  These things are 
only about $25 and can be replaced reasonably easily with the right tools.

Are you dead set on the looks thing?

You need to remove the bottom bracket, and replace the bottom bracket with 
a square taper sealed unit like a UN-26.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x113-mm/dp/B001EIAZ7A/r

If it is a dedicated mountain bike, it will need a 73mm sealed unit.  You 
will also need to find the right width spindle to keep the chainline at 
50mm.  Somebody on the list with a  Suzie/Wolbis might help you find a 
spindle, since I’ve heard (but don’t really know for sure) that it has a 
73mm bottom bracket shell.

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[RBW] Re: Good wishes for those on list affected by CA wildfires

[MoVelo]

The sunrises and sunsets have been fantastic here in flyover territory. 
Thanks.

On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 11:05:45 AM UTC-5 Ash wrote:

>
> The smoke situation in South Bay Area keeps changing between bad and very 
> bad.
>
> These pictures are from a trail I frequent.  Before the fire vs yesterday. 
>  
>
> My heart goes out to folks with respiratory issues and those who live near 
> the mountains.  It is a very very scary situation.   
> [image: IMG_3913.JPG]
>

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[RBW] Crankset & BB Question

[Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY)]

I bought a mountain bike on Craigslist and have been using it with an 
Xtracycle Free Radical conversion for a few months as a kid hauler and 
cargo bike. The crankset and bottom bracket it came with are part of the 
Shimano Hollowtech group: BB is Shimano SM-BB51 

 and 
the crank is a Shimano XT two-piece compression thing like this 

 with 
a built in spindle. I've been having some issues with the crank creaking 
and popping when I ride and would like to replace it with something simpler 
and more classic looking, like a Riv Clipper wide/low 

. 

Question is, do I have to replace the entire bottom bracket or can I use 
the SM-BB51 and install a new spindle? The current crankset has a spindle 
built in/attached.  Would this work? 

 
I'm kinda clueless when it comes to this Hollowtech stuff and not sure 
what's compatible/interchangeable. Thanks in advance. 

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands and Clems

[Mark Roland]

Yes, I can understand the mounting bolt or the kickstand legs, but not the 
plate. At least not the one on my Clem. I guess if the plate is not beefy 
enough it could be an issue. Definitely want to design it so that if 
anything, the kickstand itself fails before any deformation of the frame is 
possible. Maybe they should rate kickstands like some racks are rated.

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 12:53:50 AM UTC-4, brendonoid wrote:
>
> ... even with totallly over built kickstand mounts, the twisting action 
> during deployment would always eventually kill the kickstand, whether it 
> sheared the mounting bolt or the legs of the kickstand itself.
>
> On Tuesday, 25 August 2020 at 10:18:52 UTC+8 Mark Roland wrote:
>
>> I am confused by this. I can't imagine the weight of a kickstand 
>> "ripping" a welded kickstand off of any bicycle. Not to mention what is the 
>> point of a kickstand plate if it can't handle a kickstand, double or knot. 
>> I assume you don't mean weight of the kickstand but maybe fully weighted 
>> kickstand.  But even if people were sitting on the bike with the kickstand 
>> down--which I hope Riv riders would understand is not generally a good 
>> practice--I can't fathom how the plate would be riven from the frame before 
>> one of the legs would give way on the kickstand itself. If it did, are we 
>> sure it wasn't some perfect freak storm that happened once? Or are these 
>> kickstands and the pivots super strong, and acting like a pry bar on the 
>> plate? Still hard to picture. Maybe a batch of faulty kickstand plate welds.
>>
>> By the way, my double clears a 650B x 2.25 Thunder Burt no problem. I 
>> guess it's maybe not a Pletcher, it's black and reads "Massload." It came 
>> with a used Clem and I transferred it to my new Clem. Works great so far.
>>
>> On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 7:59:43 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>>
>>> A few years back there reports of the weight of the double kick stand 
>>> ripping the Kickstand plate off of Rivendell bicycles, so you should 
>>> actually mount it with the long bolt and chainstay sandwich, not the shorty 
>>> bolt directly to the plate. I suspect part of the problem may have been 
>>> people sitting on the bike with the kickstand down, but Riv stopped selling 
>>> them after reports of frame damage.
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 10:16:46 AM UTC-4, Alex K wrote:

 Just got my Clem L rolling and I'm pretty smitten.  The handling on 
 curves and general comfort level are fairly astounding.  I do have a Nitto 
 Campee 34F with a hardware-less Wald 157 basket mounted on the front for 
 larger loads (laundry, pizza, etc.). What I'm wondering here is if anyone 
 has any experience with the double kickstand on a heavier/loaded bike.  I 
 didn't love the single Pletscher kickstand that came with the bike and am 
 considering a Pletscher or Velo Orange double stand.  Any thoughts?  
 Thanks 
 for reading.  
 Alex

>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 100/135 wheelset or 135mm rear wheel, light to medium duty for Toyo Atlantis

[Dorothy C]

I have a set of these that I used for about 200 miles on a hybrid I had 
before giving in to a Clem purchase that fit me much better. They are rim 
taped with Newbaums. How about $200 plus shipping?

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/wheels/products/700c-velocity-built-riv-standard-wheel-kit

On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 8:35:07 PM UTC-7 Jay P wrote:

> Oops...   700c !
>
> Thank you, Dave --
>
>
>
> On Monday, August 24, 2020 at 4:02:07 PM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>> Should probably specify 700c or 26"
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, August 23, 2020 at 1:44:09 PM UTC-4, Jay P wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I've been watching for awhile but none have been posted recently so...
>>>
>>> Anyone have a 135mm rear wheel   OR   wheelset, Shimano 8/9spd
>>>
>>> Ideally something pretty nice (Phil hub?  Lesnik-built?)
>>>
>>> I have a heavy duty wheelset for my Atlantis --- and would love to try 
>>> it with a lighter duty set + 44mm compass tires I have on the shelf.
>>>
>>> Please be in touch if you have something you might like to part with !
>>>
>>> Jay P. 
>>> Berkeley, CA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB/WTT: Billie Bar

[☆ Paul ☆]

Hello Reid,

I realize this is an old thread, but do you still have a Bille bar for 
sale? trying to hunt one down and RBW is out.

(Google won't let me direct message for some reason, not sure why, so 
posting here.)

Thx Paul

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 9:20:03 AM UTC-4 Reid Echols wrote:

> I’ve got a little-used Billie bar I’d sell for something like $70 plus 
> shipping from Austin, TX. Or possibly trade for other interesting 
> bike-related things. 
>
>
> Reid in ATX

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[esoterica etc]

Hey all,

I just checked out a local Soma San Marcos (collaboration between Grant 
Petersen and Soma) for sale in a 57cm. It's got a solid build list, topped off 
by a Rich Lesnik-built wheelset. To me, it feels very similar in ride quality 
to an A. Homer Hilsen. He's selling because he's in the process of building up 
a Sam Hillborne that fits him better. A bit overpriced I think, but he seemed 
open to negotiation. Another bonus is that the seller lives about two miles 
away from Cycles de Oro, bike shop of Dale Brown from Classic Rendezvous. 
Cheers,

~Mark
Raleigh, NC

https://greensboro.craigslist.org/bik/d/greensboro-soma-san-marcos-57cm/7182452309.html




>> On Aug 23, 2020, at 22:22, Matthew Williams 
>>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Kevin, 
> 
> Andrew is selling his 62 Appaloosa:
> 
> https://austin.craigslist.org/bik/d/austin-62cm-rivendell-joe-appaloosa-f/7177615132.html
> 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?utm_medium=email_source=footer#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/apup5fwSNrg/5lhbzt7gBQAJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2020, at 7:17 PM, Kevin D norcal  wrote:
>> 
>> Quickbeam 58cm in Seattle
>> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-rivendell-quickbeam-single/7183045179.html
>>   
>> 
>> *too many 58's on the market IMO.  I need a 62cm.  If I find my 62 then I 
>> can put my 64's up for sale
>> 
>>> On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 4:11:41 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>> This thread is for Rivendells you've found on eBay, CraigsList, and sites 
>>> beyond: bikes in which you think someone here might be interested. This 
>>> thread isn't for posting ads to your own ad, it's just so people who are 
>>> searching or interested have a place to look, like, "Hey, check this out!" 
>>> Here are a few, from today's searches:
>>> 
>>> 61cm Roadini
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/283940882590
>>> 
>>> 58cm Quickbeam
>>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/pinole-rivendell-quickbeam-58/7154380920.html
>>> 
>>> 52cm Clementine
>>> https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bik/d/richardson-rivendell-clementine/7130894748.html
>>> 
>>> 65cm Redwood
>>> https://bellingham.craigslist.org/bik/d/bellingham-rivendell-redwood/7153843392.html
>> 
>> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Bars, Paul, Big Agnes, SRAM Eagle/Sunrace, Roadrunner Bag.

[☆ Paul ☆]

Hello Will,

Seems like a long shot as its been a while, but are either if the Billie 
bars still available? Am looking for one.

(Would normally direct message you, but for some reason Google won't let 
me. Can't sort it out as it does sometimes...)

On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 11:07:53 AM UTC-4 Will Ashe wrote:

> The Bullmoose bars are available again. The thumb shifters are 9 speed.
>
>
> On Friday, May 29, 2020 at 9:32:27 AM UTC-5, Will Ashe wrote:
>>
>>
>> The Bullmoose bars and Paul levers have been claimed. The remaining items 
>> are listed below.
>>
>> 2. Nitto Billie Bars. $80
>>> 4. SRAM Eagle RD, chain+ and shifter (shifter pod has never been 
>>> mounted), Sunrace 11-50 cassette, and Microshift 12spd bar-end shifter. I'm 
>>> including both shifters in case folks want to swap bars. This was on my 
>>> Clem for about 4 months, and all parts have minimal miles due to Covid-19. 
>>> No pics right now, I can upload some in a couple of days. $240 shipped
>>> 5. Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL2 Tent. I used this maybe 5 times after 
>>> picking it up second hand in similar condition. Poles are not bent, stakes 
>>> included, no holes. $250
>>> 6. Roadrunner Drafter seat bag, nearly new, rust color. $40 shipped.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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