Re: [RBW] Re: Weight question / I'm obviously confused

[James Whorton]

Paul, these are all good questions, and I wish I could answer
analytically.  Joe Bernard's phrase "road-hugging weight" sounds right to
me.

Whether the steering was more controllable with the extra weight--maybe.
An interesting thing about having a pipe sticking out over the front wheel
is that it gave me a really clear, graphic indication of all the little
corrections I make when I am steering.  The frame wants to go straight, and
the front wheel is relatively jittery.  Maybe it would be an interesting
experiment to try the same ride with something light, like a yardstick out
over the wheel, to see if there is a difference

I have wondered why we attach front baskets to forks, instead of to the
frame.  Probably because it is easier to attach the basket to the fork and
handlebars.  But I think it would ride better if it was attached to the
frame.




On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 2:59 PM Paul Brodek  wrote:

> Many interesting/helpful electrons already spilled on this. I'll only
> add
>
> 1. I have a very hard time myself characterizing frame-related ride
> characteristics. That said, here I'm having trouble contrasting "lumbering
> feeling on a hilly ride" with "gets smoother with more weight." Also, "not
> faster, but easier." Was the ride being hilly important, meaning the bike
> feels less lumbering on flatter rides? Did the bike climb faster with the
> iron bar addition? Or did you get more oomph on the downhills before the
> climbs to give you more momentum on the way up? Heavier weight made
> steering more controllable? Or something else? Not trying to pick nits
> here, just trying to understand better, while happily admitting I
> particularly stink trying to describe this stuff myself.
> 2. But TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES. Oh, and TIRES. Dead tires = dead
> ride. I think especially with tires this wide, and with wheelbases this
> long.
> 3. Weight savings going to a smaller frame will only be ounces, which are
> immaterial in the overall rider/bike weight calculation. If it was just
> frame weight that mattered, you could A/B compare by riding with/without a
> half-full water bottle. It's not the weight so much as the flex. What would
> be more important to ride quality would be if the smaller frame had
> thinner-diameter tubes, or thinner-wall tubes, which would flex more. I
> suppose shorter-length frame tubes and longer seatposts/stems would also
> factor in, though, regardless of tube width/thickness.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
> On Saturday, January 9, 2021 at 6:37:33 PM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> I have a 59cm Clem H that is a little too big for me (I am 6' 1", 89
>> PBH).  So I was riding it on some hilly pavement today, thinking what a
>> lumbering hulk this bike is and how I need a smaller one.  I came across a
>> piece of iron pipe in the road.  I thought, "I need to tie that on my bike
>> because it will make everything worse, proving my point."  I tied it on the
>> bike and to my confusion, the bike rode more smoothly.  It felt great.  It
>> didn't feel faster but it felt easier and just really nice.  Smoother.  The
>> simplest explanation is that I am confused and imagining things, because
>> adding pounds to my Clem H should not make it nicer to ride.  Butis it
>> possible I was not confused?
>>
>> I will try to insert a picture.
>>
>> Jim in Rochester
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Weight question / I'm obviously confused

[Paul Brodek]

Many interesting/helpful electrons already spilled on this. I'll only 
add

1. I have a very hard time myself characterizing frame-related ride 
characteristics. That said, here I'm having trouble contrasting "lumbering 
feeling on a hilly ride" with "gets smoother with more weight." Also, "not 
faster, but easier." Was the ride being hilly important, meaning the bike 
feels less lumbering on flatter rides? Did the bike climb faster with the 
iron bar addition? Or did you get more oomph on the downhills before the 
climbs to give you more momentum on the way up? Heavier weight made 
steering more controllable? Or something else? Not trying to pick nits 
here, just trying to understand better, while happily admitting I 
particularly stink trying to describe this stuff myself.
2. But TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES. Oh, and TIRES. Dead tires = dead 
ride. I think especially with tires this wide, and with wheelbases this 
long.
3. Weight savings going to a smaller frame will only be ounces, which are 
immaterial in the overall rider/bike weight calculation. If it was just 
frame weight that mattered, you could A/B compare by riding with/without a 
half-full water bottle. It's not the weight so much as the flex. What would 
be more important to ride quality would be if the smaller frame had 
thinner-diameter tubes, or thinner-wall tubes, which would flex more. I 
suppose shorter-length frame tubes and longer seatposts/stems would also 
factor in, though, regardless of tube width/thickness.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA
On Saturday, January 9, 2021 at 6:37:33 PM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:

> I have a 59cm Clem H that is a little too big for me (I am 6' 1", 89 
> PBH).  So I was riding it on some hilly pavement today, thinking what a 
> lumbering hulk this bike is and how I need a smaller one.  I came across a 
> piece of iron pipe in the road.  I thought, "I need to tie that on my bike 
> because it will make everything worse, proving my point."  I tied it on the 
> bike and to my confusion, the bike rode more smoothly.  It felt great.  It 
> didn't feel faster but it felt easier and just really nice.  Smoother.  The 
> simplest explanation is that I am confused and imagining things, because 
> adding pounds to my Clem H should not make it nicer to ride.  Butis it 
> possible I was not confused?
>
> I will try to insert a picture.  
>
> Jim in Rochester
>
> [image: IMG_1544.jpg]
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Copenhagen Wheel $1,100

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks Alex, Jay, and Max. I think I'd like the natural or at least very
simple power transfer, and I'd certainly like the compact package. But 10
mile range, even 20, would be too short for the types of errands I have in
mind, which would be 20 to 35 mile outs-and-backs; say going to the
Oriental grocery store downtown. Too bad.

On Tue, Jan 12, 2021 at 7:59 AM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <
4824...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I love(d) mine and I'm missing it greatly as it got passed along to my 82
> year old father who's have a blast on his Copenhagenized Clem.
>
> My commute went away with COVID as well.
>
> IMHO they're excellent for everything you can do in less then 10 miles,
> 15-20 if you're more judicious about using a lower assist level/don't have
> heavy loads or very steep hills.  These things can be set to cruise at 20+
> miles an hour and for me that was always my default setting as it's FUN FUN
> FUN FUN FUN.  Soul replenishing fun.
>
> It's incredibly natural feeling compared to most other systems I've ridden.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> Alex in Rochester, NY
>
>
>
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: FS: Losco 54cm, $70 shipped

[Joe Bernard]

SOLD.




On Monday, January 11, 2021 at 5:44:42 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Minimal slidey marks on one side of sleeve. Here's an 'on the bike' pic, 
> I'll send lots as it sits now, just haven't taken them yet. $70 shipped!
>
> Joe Bernard
> Marin CA. 
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Copenhagen Wheel $1,100

[maxcr]

Yes to all of the above, the Copenhagen Wheel feels very natural since 
there is no accelerator button or lever, it just assists as you pedal - 
it's weirdly magical. 

So there isn't much to control other than the setting in the app which you 
do at the beginning of the ride.

I believe Joe Bernard had the same wheel but was looking for a 650b model?

Max
Somerville, MA
On Tuesday, January 12, 2021 at 12:10:00 PM UTC-5 Jay P wrote:

> I'll second Alex's take:  just the right amount of assist (not too much), 
> not much range, great for most trips/errands around town.  Adds ~16 pounds 
> to a bike.  Having tried lots of bike options, the Copenhagen wheel is what 
> I've kept as it is the most fun and bicycle-like of them all.  Great for 
> errands + commuting + not driving  --  with all the fun of biking with less 
> sweat.  I have lots of pedal bikes for the other kind of fun rides on the 
> weekend, etc.
>
> Better with a stout frame (my set my partner up with a Hunquapilar + 
> Copenhagen wheel while I have a Surly Ogre) and large volume (45mm+ ?) 
> tires -- I got several pinch flats with 700x 38mm Schwalbe almotion TL tires
>
> Jay 
> Berkeley, CA
>
> On Tuesday, January 12, 2021 at 6:59:56 AM UTC-8 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
>> I love(d) mine and I'm missing it greatly as it got passed along to my 82 
>> year old father who's have a blast on his Copenhagenized Clem.
>>
>> My commute went away with COVID as well.
>>
>> IMHO they're excellent for everything you can do in less then 10 miles, 
>> 15-20 if you're more judicious about using a lower assist level/don't have 
>> heavy loads or very steep hills.  These things can be set to cruise at 20+ 
>> miles an hour and for me that was always my default setting as it's FUN FUN 
>> FUN FUN FUN.  Soul replenishing fun.
>>
>> It's incredibly natural feeling compared to most other systems I've 
>> ridden.
>>
>> Hope that helps!
>>
>> Alex in Rochester, NY
>>
>>
>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Copenhagen Wheel $1,100

[Jay P]

I'll second Alex's take:  just the right amount of assist (not too much), 
not much range, great for most trips/errands around town.  Adds ~16 pounds 
to a bike.  Having tried lots of bike options, the Copenhagen wheel is what 
I've kept as it is the most fun and bicycle-like of them all.  Great for 
errands + commuting + not driving  --  with all the fun of biking with less 
sweat.  I have lots of pedal bikes for the other kind of fun rides on the 
weekend, etc.

Better with a stout frame (my set my partner up with a Hunquapilar + 
Copenhagen wheel while I have a Surly Ogre) and large volume (45mm+ ?) 
tires -- I got several pinch flats with 700x 38mm Schwalbe almotion TL tires

Jay 
Berkeley, CA

On Tuesday, January 12, 2021 at 6:59:56 AM UTC-8 Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
Haus Bicycles wrote:

> I love(d) mine and I'm missing it greatly as it got passed along to my 82 
> year old father who's have a blast on his Copenhagenized Clem.
>
> My commute went away with COVID as well.
>
> IMHO they're excellent for everything you can do in less then 10 miles, 
> 15-20 if you're more judicious about using a lower assist level/don't have 
> heavy loads or very steep hills.  These things can be set to cruise at 20+ 
> miles an hour and for me that was always my default setting as it's FUN FUN 
> FUN FUN FUN.  Soul replenishing fun.
>
> It's incredibly natural feeling compared to most other systems I've ridden.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> Alex in Rochester, NY
>
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Friction 1x11

[Matthew P]

Thank you Sam for this post. This is currently on my mind.
My friends insisted on a clutch derailer, and then, better than insisting, 
a friend gave me one (I reciprocated to make it a trade :)

So I've been internally himming and hawing over what shifter to run on my 
Shimano 11 speed clutch derailer and Shimano 11-42, 11 speed casette.
One thing that came to mind is I'd like to have friction shifting an option 
if/when, for some reason, I can't correctly tune the indexed shifting with 
a barrel adjuster etc.
I think the barcon/bar-end option to switch between indexed and friction 
shifting is a really nice option and back-up plan.
I am also a little resistant to mountain bike trigger shifters, not for 
mechanical reasons, just...personal prefernce/bias.

So I'm thinking I'll go with the Microshift 11 spd thumb shifter.
It looks like its the SL-M11 I want:
https://www.microshift.com/en/product/sl-m11/
I wish it had the bolt with the folding loop on top like the Shimanos to 
make it easier to switch between friction and indexed.

I think I'm decided now, thanks, but also happy to hear more.

-Matthew
San Diego, CA

On Monday, January 11, 2021 at 9:24:00 PM UTC-8 Adam in Indiana wrote:

> I’ve been using 1x11 for a while, in both friction and indexed.  I use an 
> appropriate Microshift lever with a Shimano SLX clutch derailleur, and it 
> works flawlessly.  I started it out as a bar-end, but now have it on a 
> hydraulic Gevenalle setup.
>
> On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 1:24:37 AM UTC-5 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Any one have any experience with a friction 1x set up ? I'm really 
>> curious, but was discouraged bc I've herd anything above an 8s suffers on 
>> friction mode, is there a shifters that would be adequate and is the 
>> shifting more fussy ?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Copenhagen Wheel $1,100

[Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles]

I love(d) mine and I'm missing it greatly as it got passed along to my 82 
year old father who's have a blast on his Copenhagenized Clem.

My commute went away with COVID as well.

IMHO they're excellent for everything you can do in less then 10 miles, 
15-20 if you're more judicious about using a lower assist level/don't have 
heavy loads or very steep hills.  These things can be set to cruise at 20+ 
miles an hour and for me that was always my default setting as it's FUN FUN 
FUN FUN FUN.  Soul replenishing fun.

It's incredibly natural feeling compared to most other systems I've ridden.

Hope that helps!

Alex in Rochester, NY



>

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