Re: [RBW] bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Drw]

Yeah, its on a disc fork. I assume the hole is for a light or for the more 
normal mark’s rack style fork crown bracket thing. 

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 8:37:40 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> If you don’t use a daruma for the front fender, having threads on the back 
> side of the fork crown is perfect for a bolt through a fender bracket.
>
> Or, getting a little “old school,” you could mount a tire sweeper back 
> there.
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On May 3, 2021, at 8:15 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
> wrote:
>
> That's certainly the case, but why? The only thing I can think that'd be 
> good for is a light mount, and two holes is as better for a light mount as 
> it is for everything else I can imagine, so I'm left wondering. 
> -Kai
> A note for Drew, in case you do decide to drill that out, best to use a 
> centering punch that fits inside the threads so you can start with a 
> smaller drill bit and go bigger until you hit that sweet spot where you're 
> clearing out the threads up front and making the final pass out the back 
> with the rack then sliding through effortlessly. With oil of course, and a 
> wee bit of abandon.
>
>
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 10:58:23 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> A fork crown intended for use on a fork with brazed-on brake mounts 
>> (cantis or centerpulls) might be made differently, since the hole in the 
>> crown doesn’t need to accommodate a through bolt.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy   
>>
>> On May 3, 2021, at 7:37 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
>> wrote:
>>
>> ide note/ask, why do some crowns come with a threaded hole on one side?
>>
>>
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

If you don’t use a daruma for the front fender, having threads on the back side 
of the fork crown is perfect for a bolt through a fender bracket.

Or, getting a little “old school,” you could mount a tire sweeper back there.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

> On May 3, 2021, at 8:15 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
> wrote:
> 
> That's certainly the case, but why? The only thing I can think that'd be good 
> for is a light mount, and two holes is as better for a light mount as it is 
> for everything else I can imagine, so I'm left wondering. 
> -Kai
> A note for Drew, in case you do decide to drill that out, best to use a 
> centering punch that fits inside the threads so you can start with a smaller 
> drill bit and go bigger until you hit that sweet spot where you're clearing 
> out the threads up front and making the final pass out the back with the rack 
> then sliding through effortlessly. With oil of course, and a wee bit of 
> abandon.
> 
> 
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 10:58:23 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
> A fork crown intended for use on a fork with brazed-on brake mounts (cantis 
> or centerpulls) might be made differently, since the hole in the crown 
> doesn’t need to accommodate a through bolt.
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
> 
>> On May 3, 2021, at 7:37 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY > > wrote:
>> 
>> ide note/ask, why do some crowns come with a threaded hole on one side?
> 
> 
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>  
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Re: [RBW] bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

That's certainly the case, but why? The only thing I can think that'd be 
good for is a light mount, and two holes is as better for a light mount as 
it is for everything else I can imagine, so I'm left wondering. 
-Kai
A note for Drew, in case you do decide to drill that out, best to use a 
centering punch that fits inside the threads so you can start with a 
smaller drill bit and go bigger until you hit that sweet spot where you're 
clearing out the threads up front and making the final pass out the back 
with the rack then sliding through effortlessly. With oil of course, and a 
wee bit of abandon.


On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 10:58:23 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> A fork crown intended for use on a fork with brazed-on brake mounts 
> (cantis or centerpulls) might be made differently, since the hole in the 
> crown doesn’t need to accommodate a through bolt.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On May 3, 2021, at 7:37 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
> wrote:
>
> ide note/ask, why do some crowns come with a threaded hole on one side?
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

A fork crown intended for use on a fork with brazed-on brake mounts (cantis or 
centerpulls) might be made differently, since the hole in the crown doesn’t 
need to accommodate a through bolt.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

> On May 3, 2021, at 7:37 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
> wrote:
> 
> ide note/ask, why do some crowns come with a threaded hole on one side?

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[RBW] Re: bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

Definitely go through the front because that's going to be your guide for 
the back, and those threads are messing everything up, so they need to get 
messed up!, as in, erased. Just enough gone to allow the rack's bolt 
through without bother. 
-Kai
Side note/ask, why do some crowns come with a threaded hole on one side? 
That can't be a good way to attach a brake, right? The strength of a 
caliper brake mount comes from the throughboltedness of it, yes? Losing 
3/4" worth of bolt on a brake mount would not be a good way to shed 
precious grams, so why? Dedicated light mount?

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 6:53:13 PM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> The thought crossed my mind. Ive never drilled through expensive steel 
> before. I assume you'd go from the front? how do you not mess up those 
> threads?
>
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 3:10:38 PM UTC-7 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY wrote:
>
>> I'm a little confused and curious, having never seen a 6mm threaded hole 
>> on the front of a fork crown, but assuming the fork's not built of 
>> something other than metal, wouldn't it be so easy and satisfying to drill 
>> out the threading and continue out of the back of the fork, enabling 
>> "normal" use of that threaded mount? That way it would be easy to install, 
>> and easy to remove when you want to sell it.
>> -Kai
>>
>>
>> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 5:56:01 PM UTC-4 Drw wrote:
>>
>>> Ah. good point. This is a problem I hadn't thought through. Im not 
>>> opposed to cutting, but being a perpetual rack switcher makes me think ill 
>>> likely sell it, and a chopped off bolt wont make it too desirable. 
>>> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:50:00 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Drew 

 I'm 98% sure that the bolt on the Nitto 32F is M6 x 1.0mm, which is 
 standard for virtually all M6 threads on bicycles, including cantilever 
 bosses, the larger rack bosses on some Rivs, seat bolts on Rivs, lots of 
 other things...

 Now, if you have a threaded M6 x 1.0mm hole in the front face of your 
 fork crown, then in principle you could thread that rack bolt into that 
 hole.  At the moment you get it started, the rack will be out in front of 
 the fork about 1-1/2" too far out in front.  As you thread it in the rack 
 will get closer to the fork.  When the existing threads run out the rack 
 will still be sitting about an inch too far forward.  Then what?  Will you 
 just bend everything as much as you need to bend things to get the rack 
 legs to reach the fork?  I think you would end up with something really 
 badly bent and contorted, won't be anywhere close to level, will have the 
 tombstone way farther away from the fork as ideal, and won't be 'tight' 
 threaded in that hole.  You could handle the 'tightness' problem by 
 backing 
 out the rack a few turns and leaving room for a locknut.  That would solve 
 one of three problems and make the other two worse.

 Alternatively you could maybe get into the thread cutting game and try 
 to thread the rack bolt much further down its length.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:11:01 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:

> Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the 
> fork crown on the nitto 32f? 
>
> I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole 
> on the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole
>
> Thanks,
> Drew
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: To My Platypus People!

[Philip Barrett]

Got a wee note from UPS today! 

[image: 73f002cade6cbaaa2e2be806417dee8e.png]

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 1:53:18 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

>
> I like looping it around the drive side of the seatpost in this situation 
> - kind of enlarges the radius of the bend while keeping it close to the 
> seatpost and frame. Use the longest hanger you can find - Surly makes a 
> long one.
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:38:50 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
>
>> Nathan,
>> I'm going with canti brakes. I should be running the housing/cables 
>> tonight or tomorrow.  I have a set of Velo Orange Zeste cantis that I've 
>> been holding on to. The issue with the rear setup is to have the housing 
>> loop up so it touches the seatpost, I think.  Otherwise you'll have the 
>> housing contacting the seatpost lug. I'm not sure how it will look, but 
>> that's how I saw one another person set it up (Blue Lug?).  I don't like 
>> how Crust did it as it will rub the paint off of the lug (see their $3800 
>> Platy).  
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> I'll share photos when I get them set up.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:44 PM Nathan F  wrote:
>>
>>> It's been nice seeing everyone get their frames, both here and on 
>>> Instagram. Lots of great builds so far and plenty of inspiration for how 
>>> I'll route the rear cantilever on mine. Seems I'm not the only one who 
>>> wanted to use cantis!
>>>
>>> Yesterday the front rack came in for mine... now all that's left are the 
>>> rims and frameset! Pending any further delays, I should be riding my 
>>> Platypus in about 5 weeks or so.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Drw]

The thought crossed my mind. Ive never drilled through expensive steel 
before. I assume you'd go from the front? how do you not mess up those 
threads?

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 3:10:38 PM UTC-7 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY wrote:

> I'm a little confused and curious, having never seen a 6mm threaded hole 
> on the front of a fork crown, but assuming the fork's not built of 
> something other than metal, wouldn't it be so easy and satisfying to drill 
> out the threading and continue out of the back of the fork, enabling 
> "normal" use of that threaded mount? That way it would be easy to install, 
> and easy to remove when you want to sell it.
> -Kai
>
>
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 5:56:01 PM UTC-4 Drw wrote:
>
>> Ah. good point. This is a problem I hadn't thought through. Im not 
>> opposed to cutting, but being a perpetual rack switcher makes me think ill 
>> likely sell it, and a chopped off bolt wont make it too desirable. 
>> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:50:00 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Drew 
>>>
>>> I'm 98% sure that the bolt on the Nitto 32F is M6 x 1.0mm, which is 
>>> standard for virtually all M6 threads on bicycles, including cantilever 
>>> bosses, the larger rack bosses on some Rivs, seat bolts on Rivs, lots of 
>>> other things...
>>>
>>> Now, if you have a threaded M6 x 1.0mm hole in the front face of your 
>>> fork crown, then in principle you could thread that rack bolt into that 
>>> hole.  At the moment you get it started, the rack will be out in front of 
>>> the fork about 1-1/2" too far out in front.  As you thread it in the rack 
>>> will get closer to the fork.  When the existing threads run out the rack 
>>> will still be sitting about an inch too far forward.  Then what?  Will you 
>>> just bend everything as much as you need to bend things to get the rack 
>>> legs to reach the fork?  I think you would end up with something really 
>>> badly bent and contorted, won't be anywhere close to level, will have the 
>>> tombstone way farther away from the fork as ideal, and won't be 'tight' 
>>> threaded in that hole.  You could handle the 'tightness' problem by backing 
>>> out the rack a few turns and leaving room for a locknut.  That would solve 
>>> one of three problems and make the other two worse.
>>>
>>> Alternatively you could maybe get into the thread cutting game and try 
>>> to thread the rack bolt much further down its length.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:11:01 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:
>>>
 Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the 
 fork crown on the nitto 32f? 

 I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole 
 on the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole

 Thanks,
 Drew

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Updates FS: Dirt Drop bars + stems

[Eric]

Update on what's left:


   - Salsa Woodchipper bar 7075-T6 AL version (31.8mm x 46cm at the hoods)
   - Good-Very Good, minimal wear - $25 or $15 with stem purchase


   - Thomson Elite X2 threadless (10deg x 31.8mm x 90mm) - Good, some
   abrasion on underside - $40


   - Salsa Guide threadless (7deg x 31.8mm x 110mm) - Very Good - $20


   - Soma Shotwell threadless (7deg x 26.0mm x 110mm) - Good, some marks on
   underside - $20


Photos are here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pajbL3vDU6nyWsGE7.

Depending on your region in the CONUS, shipping is around $20 for these
wide handlebars. Stems alone are likely to fit in a small fixed price USPS
box, at around $8.

-Eric


On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 1:19 PM Eric M Cardella  wrote:

> Correction:
>
> The Soma Shotwell listed below is actually 26.0mm clamp, not 31.8mm as
> originally listed.
>
> Accepting reasonable offers on everything that’s left. You can basically
> have either of the Woodchipper dirt drops for the cost of shipping plus a
> 6-pack!
>
> Eric
>
> Updates of what’s still available. Still $10 off if you bundle bar + stem.
> Handlebars:
> >
> > Soma Portola bar (26.0mm x 530mm end to end) - Very Good, tape residue
> and brake lever marks - $40 or $30 with stem purchase
> >
> > Original Salsa Woodchipper bar 7075-T6 AL version (31.8mm x 46cm at the
> hoods) - Good-Very Good, minimal wear - $25 or $15 with stem purchase
> >
> > Salsa Woodchipper 2 bar 7050-T7 AL version (31.8mm x 46cm at the hoods)
> - Good-Very Good, decals starting to fade away behind stem clamp area,
> includes blue Lizard Skins tape but not the brake levers or barcon shifters
> in photos - $30 or $20 with stem purchase
> >
> > Stems:
> >
> > Specialized Dirt Drop quill (26.0mm x 100mm, short insert) - Fair-Good,
> matches the vintage RM-2 bar nicely - $25
> >
> > Thomson Elite X2 threadless (10deg x 31.8mm x 90mm) - Good, some
> abrasion on underside - $40
> >
> > Salsa Guide threadless (7deg x 31.8mm x 110mm) - Very Good - $20
> >
> > Soma Shotwell threadless (7deg x 26.0mm x 110mm) - Good, some marks on
> underside - $20
> >
>

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[RBW] Re: bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

I'm a little confused and curious, having never seen a 6mm threaded hole on 
the front of a fork crown, but assuming the fork's not built of something 
other than metal, wouldn't it be so easy and satisfying to drill out the 
threading and continue out of the back of the fork, enabling "normal" use 
of that threaded mount? That way it would be easy to install, and easy to 
remove when you want to sell it.
-Kai


On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 5:56:01 PM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> Ah. good point. This is a problem I hadn't thought through. Im not opposed 
> to cutting, but being a perpetual rack switcher makes me think ill likely 
> sell it, and a chopped off bolt wont make it too desirable. 
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:50:00 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Drew 
>>
>> I'm 98% sure that the bolt on the Nitto 32F is M6 x 1.0mm, which is 
>> standard for virtually all M6 threads on bicycles, including cantilever 
>> bosses, the larger rack bosses on some Rivs, seat bolts on Rivs, lots of 
>> other things...
>>
>> Now, if you have a threaded M6 x 1.0mm hole in the front face of your 
>> fork crown, then in principle you could thread that rack bolt into that 
>> hole.  At the moment you get it started, the rack will be out in front of 
>> the fork about 1-1/2" too far out in front.  As you thread it in the rack 
>> will get closer to the fork.  When the existing threads run out the rack 
>> will still be sitting about an inch too far forward.  Then what?  Will you 
>> just bend everything as much as you need to bend things to get the rack 
>> legs to reach the fork?  I think you would end up with something really 
>> badly bent and contorted, won't be anywhere close to level, will have the 
>> tombstone way farther away from the fork as ideal, and won't be 'tight' 
>> threaded in that hole.  You could handle the 'tightness' problem by backing 
>> out the rack a few turns and leaving room for a locknut.  That would solve 
>> one of three problems and make the other two worse.
>>
>> Alternatively you could maybe get into the thread cutting game and try to 
>> thread the rack bolt much further down its length.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:11:01 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:
>>
>>> Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the 
>>> fork crown on the nitto 32f? 
>>>
>>> I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole on 
>>> the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Drew
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First 40+ miles...

[Robert Dowtin]

With that said, I should have pointed out the 'ratcheting' feel is pretty
great. I like the 'feel' of the pull better than the dura ace but I loved
my dura ace shifters on my Crust's bartends. So... 路‍♀️

On Mon, May 3, 2021, 16:13 R Shannon  wrote:

> Robert,
>
> Thanks for the feedback on the shifters. “Which bike am I going to take.”
> Good problem to have!
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 3, 2021, at 4:35 PM, Robert Dowtin  wrote:
>
> 
> Thanks so much for all the kind words! I promise I will attempt to provide
> more entertaining reports and pictures in the near future.
>
> Rich: I am not positive I love the silver 2s on the DT. I am not so sure I
> would prefer them on the barends however... I need to give them lots of
> time before I allow myself to develop a real opinion.
>
> I really do have a hard time getting work done around here now. I find
> myself spending a lot of time thinking about when I can get out again for a
> ride and which bike I am going to take.
> Update: I think I may have fixed the shifting by going back to the Suntour
> Cyclone RD w/ an 11-28 cassette, instead of the 11-32. Everything seems to
> be shifting quite nice with that and a vintage XT FD.
>
> Pic: Yesterday afternoon top of Mt. Gaylor
> 
>
>
>
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> .
> 
>
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Roberta]

Oh, that's nice!  I bought my AHHilsen, also pre-loved,  1 3/4 years ago as 
my second bike to keep at my office.  As I rode the AHH, I loved it more 
and more.My mermaid Platy is around the corner.  So, new bikes all 
around for you, Ariel and me.  You will be the smartest biking couple on 
the trails near home.
On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 11:18:35 AM UTC-4 will...@yahoo.com wrote:

> On its way to me in California!
>
> W
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 30, 2021, at 7:55 AM, Cory Hughes  wrote:
>
> That Sam has a real artsy fingerprint-on-the-lens glow, oh and it is a 
> great build! Seems like a very fair price.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:11:52 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Sam Hillborne
>> L (cm not specified) 
>> $900 
>> Indianapolis, IN 
>>
>> https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/bik/d/plainfield-rivendell-samuel-hillborne/7311968011.html
>>
>> [image: 0_kiAv20g29Z0z_0t20t2_1200x900.jpg]
>>
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> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Drw]

Ah. good point. This is a problem I hadn't thought through. Im not opposed 
to cutting, but being a perpetual rack switcher makes me think ill likely 
sell it, and a chopped off bolt wont make it too desirable. 
On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:50:00 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Drew 
>
> I'm 98% sure that the bolt on the Nitto 32F is M6 x 1.0mm, which is 
> standard for virtually all M6 threads on bicycles, including cantilever 
> bosses, the larger rack bosses on some Rivs, seat bolts on Rivs, lots of 
> other things...
>
> Now, if you have a threaded M6 x 1.0mm hole in the front face of your fork 
> crown, then in principle you could thread that rack bolt into that hole.  
> At the moment you get it started, the rack will be out in front of the fork 
> about 1-1/2" too far out in front.  As you thread it in the rack will get 
> closer to the fork.  When the existing threads run out the rack will still 
> be sitting about an inch too far forward.  Then what?  Will you just bend 
> everything as much as you need to bend things to get the rack legs to reach 
> the fork?  I think you would end up with something really badly bent and 
> contorted, won't be anywhere close to level, will have the tombstone way 
> farther away from the fork as ideal, and won't be 'tight' threaded in that 
> hole.  You could handle the 'tightness' problem by backing out the rack a 
> few turns and leaving room for a locknut.  That would solve one of three 
> problems and make the other two worse.
>
> Alternatively you could maybe get into the thread cutting game and try to 
> thread the rack bolt much further down its length.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:11:01 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:
>
>> Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the 
>> fork crown on the nitto 32f? 
>>
>> I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole on 
>> the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Drew
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Converting 650b Hilsen to Rene Herse 42/26 cranks

[Doug Williams]

Thanks very much, Patrick! As usual, very helpful.

Doug

On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 4:30:06 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Doug: There are all sorts of reasons to buy the RH crank, foremost among 
> which is its beauty. But if you want a cheaper, more utilitarian way to get 
> the same result, consider converting the homely Sugino by removing the 46 
> and replacing it with a guard (https://bbgbashguard.com), swapping the 36 
> for a 42, and considering whether you need to swap the 24 for a 26; but if 
> you decide that you do, this is easy. 
>
> Then you can hold an interior debate about the cogs you need to change in 
> the rear.
>
> The *upshot* is that you can leave the bb spindle and even the front 
> derailleur strictly alone. 
>
> Some years ago I changed the 46-36-24 on my Fargo, long since sold, to a 
> BBBashGuard/38/24 on the same Sugino XD2. I swapped the 7 cogs on the 
> Shimano LX freehub for 9 different ones; IIRC, I simply bought 9-sp spacers 
> and built a cassette from the cogs in my Big Box.
>
> Note this carefully: I *did not* change the bb assembly, I kept the same 
> LX triple front derailleur, *and I didn't even** lower the front 
> derailleur.* I simply adjusted the fd outer throw adjustment screw. 
>
> It all worked fine. Again, I did not lower the fd; just left it hanging 
> with a huge gap over the outer, formerly middle, ring.
>
> But once again, the RH crank is indeed very pretty, and I am tempted to 
> buy one myself simply for prettiness.
>
> Oh,
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 2, 2021 at 1:53 PM Doug Williams  
> wrote:
>
>> I have a 58cm 650b A. Homer Hilsen that I purchased from Riv in 2014. I 
>> have been loving it ever since! It has the Sugino Triple Crank 46-36-24 and 
>> I run it all friction shifting with bar end silvers, 8 speed with a 11-32 
>> cassette. The front derailer is Shimano Claris Triple. The bottom bracket 
>> is  bbc110.
>>
>> So...I'm getting older and I notice I don't use the 46 ring much, at 
>> least not with the higher gears in the back. I am definitely an "UnRacer" 
>> anyway. I am thinking of getting the Rene Herse double cranks with 42-26 
>> rings. If I go with the 8 speed megarange 11-34 cassette in the back, I 
>> would give up almost nothing in the lower gears and lose just some high 
>> gears that I rarely use anyway. So two questions:
>>
>> 1. Is my bottom bracket compatible with the Rene Herse cranks? I think 
>> so, but I'm not sure. Would now be a good time to replace it anyway?
>>
>> 2. Should I just keep my Claris triple FD and crank in the limit screw or 
>> go with something like the Shimano CX70 or some other double FD that works 
>> well with compact 42-26 rings?
>>
>> Any other comments or suggestions would be welcome.
>>
>> Doug
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Bill Lindsay]

Drew 

I'm 98% sure that the bolt on the Nitto 32F is M6 x 1.0mm, which is 
standard for virtually all M6 threads on bicycles, including cantilever 
bosses, the larger rack bosses on some Rivs, seat bolts on Rivs, lots of 
other things...

Now, if you have a threaded M6 x 1.0mm hole in the front face of your fork 
crown, then in principle you could thread that rack bolt into that hole.  
At the moment you get it started, the rack will be out in front of the fork 
about 1-1/2" too far out in front.  As you thread it in the rack will get 
closer to the fork.  When the existing threads run out the rack will still 
be sitting about an inch too far forward.  Then what?  Will you just bend 
everything as much as you need to bend things to get the rack legs to reach 
the fork?  I think you would end up with something really badly bent and 
contorted, won't be anywhere close to level, will have the tombstone way 
farther away from the fork as ideal, and won't be 'tight' threaded in that 
hole.  You could handle the 'tightness' problem by backing out the rack a 
few turns and leaving room for a locknut.  That would solve one of three 
problems and make the other two worse.

Alternatively you could maybe get into the thread cutting game and try to 
thread the rack bolt much further down its length.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:11:01 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:

> Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the fork 
> crown on the nitto 32f? 
>
> I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole on 
> the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole
>
> Thanks,
> Drew
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: First 40+ miles...

[R Shannon]

Robert,

Thanks for the feedback on the shifters. “Which bike am I going to take.” Good 
problem to have!

Best,
Rich in ATL

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 3, 2021, at 4:35 PM, Robert Dowtin  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for all the kind words! I promise I will attempt to provide 
> more entertaining reports and pictures in the near future.
> 
> Rich: I am not positive I love the silver 2s on the DT. I am not so sure I 
> would prefer them on the barends however... I need to give them lots of time 
> before I allow myself to develop a real opinion. 
> 
> I really do have a hard time getting work done around here now. I find myself 
> spending a lot of time thinking about when I can get out again for a ride and 
> which bike I am going to take. 
> Update: I think I may have fixed the shifting by going back to the Suntour 
> Cyclone RD w/ an 11-28 cassette, instead of the 11-32. Everything seems to be 
> shifting quite nice with that and a vintage XT FD.
> 
> Pic: Yesterday afternoon top of Mt. Gaylor
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] bolt size on Nitto 32f mini front rack

[Drw]

Can someone confirm the size/threading of the bolt that goes into the fork 
crown on the nitto 32f? 

I have a fork with a hole tapped for M6 on the front end, but no hole on 
the back, so I'd need to thread it directly into that hole

Thanks,
Drew

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[RBW] FS: Aussie Wool T-Shirts - Short Sleeve & Sleeveless - XXL - $20 plus shipping

[David B]

I bought these wool shirts off this list a few years back. Cleaning up and 
realized I never really wore them much.

2 shirts for $20 plus shipping.
1 short sleeve
1 sleeveless

1 has a white paint spot on it - apparently from painting in one of these 
for a bit.
Both are size XXL.
Send a message if you have questions or want to claim them.
Thanks,
David
River Grove, IL

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Mark's Hub Area Rack with Hoop - MF-2 - NEW

[David B]

Sold. Thanks!


On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 1:38:52 PM UTC-5 David B wrote:

> I had the intention of using this as an additional rack on my Clem and 
> making some custom panniers, but I'm pretty happy with a small front rack 
> with basket and a large saddlebag. So selling this rack.
> I purchased from Riv recently when they had a small re-stock. 
> It is new, never mounted.
> It is this one: 
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/nitto-marks-hub-area-rack-with-hoop-mf2-20236
>
> I'm asking what Riv charges - $190 shipped.
> Paypal for payment - friends/family if you can, regular works if 
> friends/family is a dealbreaker.
> Thanks,
> David
> River Grove, IL
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: To My Platypus People!

[lconley]

I like looping it around the drive side of the seatpost in this situation - 
kind of enlarges the radius of the bend while keeping it close to the 
seatpost and frame. Use the longest hanger you can find - Surly makes a 
long one.

Laing
Delray Beach FL
On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:38:50 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:

> Nathan,
> I'm going with canti brakes. I should be running the housing/cables 
> tonight or tomorrow.  I have a set of Velo Orange Zeste cantis that I've 
> been holding on to. The issue with the rear setup is to have the housing 
> loop up so it touches the seatpost, I think.  Otherwise you'll have the 
> housing contacting the seatpost lug. I'm not sure how it will look, but 
> that's how I saw one another person set it up (Blue Lug?).  I don't like 
> how Crust did it as it will rub the paint off of the lug (see their $3800 
> Platy).  
> [image: image.png]
>
> I'll share photos when I get them set up.
>
> Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 6:44 PM Nathan F  wrote:
>
>> It's been nice seeing everyone get their frames, both here and on 
>> Instagram. Lots of great builds so far and plenty of inspiration for how 
>> I'll route the rear cantilever on mine. Seems I'm not the only one who 
>> wanted to use cantis!
>>
>> Yesterday the front rack came in for mine... now all that's left are the 
>> rims and frameset! Pending any further delays, I should be riding my 
>> Platypus in about 5 weeks or so.
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: To My Platypus People!

['upyou...@yahoo.com' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Patrick, You build up a very special bike.  I love all of it.  Is that a 
very large bike bottle cage that fits a liter bottle?
Kate

On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 7:18:11 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Yes *Ma'am!*
>
> Or, if you are British: "Righty-ho, Mum!"
>
> On Sun, May 2, 2021 at 1:30 PM Leah Peterson  wrote:
>
>> Ok, Bones, here’s what we’re gonna do. You’re gonna clean that bathroom 
>> until it sparkles as bright as a lime olive Platy and then place that bike 
>> in the center of the bathroom and see what kind of reaction she gives you.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dim lighting on SON hub/Edelux II headlight

[Doug H.]

I can see the virtues of dynamo lighting but I'm still rocking the portable 
rechargeable ones on my ride. All the wiring and contact points and all 
that would complicate my bike too much. I hope you get it resolved Leah. 
Your bike is awesome-sauce!
Doug

On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 1:16:12 AM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:

> Andy, yes, this is the hard stuff!  It’s freeing knowing I could ride at 
> any time and not worry about lighting. In college I had bottle- on-wheel 
> generator system. Talk about drag!  Still, I always had working light. 
>
> Peter White and Analog come thru with their “legendary” customer service. 
>
> Roberta
>
>
> On Friday, April 30, 2021 at 5:08:44 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:
>
>>  "I can’t exactly go without one."
>>
>> Generator hubs and LED lighting will do this to you. They are the hard 
>> stuff, no gateway necessary.
>>
>> I'll be enjoying my SON dynamo and Luxos B/Pixeo lights riding to and 
>> from work today, concentrating on being thankful for the gift of their 
>> functions. They cleared my thoughts for my new bike which is a SON SL with 
>> Edelux II and Compass tail light. I would be hard pressed to depart from 
>> making my own light. Night riding, even when dictated by commuting to work, 
>> is great!
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>> On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 7:27:40 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Update: it’s the light. 
>>>
>>>
>>> The mechanic who installed the dyno system on my Clem  for me last year 
>>> was working today, and he handled my Platy. He investigated  the whole 
>>> system, ensured that all the wires and connections were correct and sturdy. 
>>> The rear tail light does light up, so it seems unlikely the hub is the 
>>> issue. He feels like the issue is originating in the headlight. Like 
>>> there’s a short in it or a loose connection. He fiddled around with the 
>>> switch and was able to get the headlight to come on in the stand. This is 
>>> exactly what happened for yesterday‘s mechanic. When I picked the bike up 
>>> and spun the wheel myself, the headlight did not light up.
>>>
>>> I’m going to see if Schmidt will make this right. If not, I guess I’m 
>>> just ordering another headlight. I can’t exactly go without one.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Apr 29, 2021, at 12:44 PM, masmojo  wrote:
>>>
>>> I'll weigh in a on a few things
>>>
>>> Yes, Contacts on the right (drive) side. 
>>> Notchiness?  It's just an element of the way the magnets work, it will 
>>> be worse when the light is on and when they bike is in the air. Once the 
>>> bike is on the ground with weight on it; it will be imperceptible.
>>> Dynamo hubs will loosen up a small amount over the first months of use, 
>>> but it's hardly noticeable and likely no more than regular hubs.
>>> Funny noise could be an element of having it mounted backwards (?) (just 
>>> a guess)
>>> JMHO, but I am also somewhat loath to trim the stock dynamo cables, It's 
>>> easy to shorten them, but more difficult to make them longer.  Typically 
>>> when joining dynamo wires I head down to the local hobby shop and get mini 
>>> R/C connectors. this makes connecting and disconnecting a darn site easier 
>>> and also cutting/soldering.
>>> Important to note: that some lights are DC and some are AC, shouldn't 
>>> really be an issue especially if the Tail light is the same brand as the 
>>> front light. I don't remember which brand is which, but I think typically 
>>> there's a circuit in the light that does the conversion.
>>> I like the SON hubs, but I have to say I prefer the Plastic quick 
>>> connect plugs over the small insulated connectors the SON uses, the SON  
>>> are really fiddley!
>>> Also note that some lights won't switch on unless you turn them on while 
>>> the wheel is moving; I haven't had a big problem with this, because I leave 
>>> mine on all the time!
>>>
>>> FWIW, I have a SON hub and Edelux light that I bought in a package deal 
>>> of ebay, Hub seems fine, but I mounted the light up on my Evasion and the 
>>> light (like yours), doesn't seem very bright.  (may be why the original 
>>> owner sold them) I haven't really done much towards figuring out why, but 
>>> it is interesting that you've had a similar experience.  Since I am 
>>> currently not working, I mainly ride in the daylight, so the light is  
>>> primarily to be seen and it does that suitably well. Once Covid is over 
>>> though I think I'll get a Supernova from Germany!!! Not really better, but 
>>> I just prefer the design and the way they mount.
>>>
>>>
> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Will Horton]

On its way to me in California!

W

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 30, 2021, at 7:55 AM, Cory Hughes  wrote:
> 
> That Sam has a real artsy fingerprint-on-the-lens glow, oh and it is a great 
> build! Seems like a very fair price.
> 
>> On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:11:52 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>> Sam Hillborne
>> L (cm not specified) 
>> $900 
>> Indianapolis, IN 
>> https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/bik/d/plainfield-rivendell-samuel-hillborne/7311968011.html
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: First 40+ miles...

[ascpgh]

Meant to say west *TO* Hwy 71... 

Oklahoma's OK, but my most frequent destination on a bike west of 71 was 
Devil's Den State Park, Arkansas.

Andy Chetham
Pittsburgh

On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 8:54:56 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:

> What a win! You have nearly a lifetime of Rivendell riding joy by some 
> rider's experience at your disposal almost immediately. 
>
> Style points on your pictures too. As a long ago Fayetteville resident 
> (Disckson 
> St., two blocks off 71on the hip of Mount Sequoyah) I had my own mental 
> images of riding to those places, paddling Frog Bayou and riding big 
> loops of gravel around and either side of White Rock mountain on my RB-1 or 
> XO-2. Pretty much covered all the roads south of Hwys 16 and 23, west of 
> Hwy 71 as far south as just below Shores Lake. We avoided Devil's Canyon to 
> the west, always returning to 71 through Winfrey Valley. 71 was always a 
> scary transit back to town with the traffic that now uses I-49. A good 
> place for drivers not interested in driving instead of inattentively 
> buzzing us on the shoulder. Often cut off at Pitkin, wove over to Blacck 
> Oak via Wallin Mountain, Lake WIlson and entered town by the old industrial 
> park.
>
> Congratulations on your unexpected Nashville double coup, particularly 
> that road custom with the direct mount Paul Racer medium centerpulls. I put 
> center mount Racers on my Rambouillet and bought clearance for both 32mm 
> tires and appropriate width Honjos to replace I used to cheat with narrower 
> fenders under the Shimano groupless "long" reach. calipers. Made my gravel 
> riding around here so sweet that I kept going with it because of the 
> Rivendell ride, despite still getting pinch flats from time to time if I 
> let the siren song of softer tire inflation lull me onto the rocks. 
>
> Enjoy and thanks for a quick flashback. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 4:27:45 PM UTC-4 Robert Dowtin wrote:
>
>> I suppose this is a ride(s) report. A few weeks ago I was escorted across 
>> state lines to procure my first Rivendell road frame, my partner in this 
>> heist (a great deal) got himself a super rad hubbuhubbuh tandem. Upon 
>> arriving in Nashville we discovered that a first gen Quickbeam frame, that 
>> for some reason or another I believed had been previously sold and not 
>> available, was very much available. The owner being the rad guy that he is, 
>> let me ride his identical orange QB around the block to see if I 
>> immediately fell in love with what he described as his #1 favorite 
>> bike...of course I did. I bought it and the set of OG QB wheels along with 
>> the Road frame w/ Phil Wood wheels that we had traveled all that way to 
>> get.  Elated, we rushed back home with our take and by Tuesday at lunchtime 
>> I had the Quickbeam fully built and before a storm rolled in I got around 
>> the block twice with a massive smile across my face. Just can not believe 
>> how great the potential is for fun on this bike...man. 
>>
>> So, as I waited to get my hands on the last few remaining parts for the 
>> Road bike, I struck up conversations with a number of wonderful people on 
>> and off this list to include Will over at Rivendell about the history of 
>> this bike (the road, not the quickbeam, keep up, we'll be switching back 
>> and forth a lot...I'm sure) which it turns out was not a road standard but 
>> a road custom made by Joe Starck and painted by Joe Bell. This was all 
>> covered in Patrick's thread about the wonderfulness of his custom frame.
>>
>>
>> So. The Quickbeam. After that storm, I rode that bike every single day 
>> between 5 and 30 miles a day all over NW Arkansas, running errands, just 
>> riding, holy shit with a massive grin and emotions bordering on euphoria. 
>> Never have I felt this good on any bike. I love this thing. I love it. 
>> Goddamnit this was and is an outstanding frame. OK so that's settled I 
>> don't ever care about riding anything else again ever.
>>
>>
>> Last few parts came in for the Road. As I finished putting it together my 
>> excitement naturally grew, but I must say I was kinda nervous that the Road 
>> was going to steal something away from my new found love for the QB. Lets 
>> be honest my QB looks like someone kicked it down a few flights of stairs, 
>> and while it is cool it never was amongst Rivendell's prettiest line of 
>> frames. 
>>
>> The Road, however... the lugs and the paint and the head badge and font 
>> makes this absolutely the prettiest bike I have ever touched, much less 
>> ridden, much much less owned. There may be objectively more attractive 
>> bikes out there, somewhere, maybe. 
>>
>>
>> Almost identical situation occurred as the week before only this time 
>> torrential rain instead of snow came with this storm. I waited it out 
>> having only done the ride around the block a few times with my kid on the 
>> brand new bike because I was short on time routine... This couple of 'round 

[RBW] Re: First 40+ miles...

[ascpgh]

What a win! You have nearly a lifetime of Rivendell riding joy by some 
rider's experience at your disposal almost immediately. 

Style points on your pictures too. As a long ago Fayetteville resident 
(Disckson 
St., two blocks off 71on the hip of Mount Sequoyah) I had my own mental 
images of riding to those places, paddling Frog Bayou and riding big loops 
of gravel around and either side of White Rock mountain on my RB-1 or XO-2. 
Pretty much covered all the roads south of Hwys 16 and 23, west of Hwy 71 
as far south as just below Shores Lake. We avoided Devil's Canyon to the 
west, always returning to 71 through Winfrey Valley. 71 was always a scary 
transit back to town with the traffic that now uses I-49. A good place for 
drivers not interested in driving instead of inattentively buzzing us on 
the shoulder. Often cut off at Pitkin, wove over to Blacck Oak via Wallin 
Mountain, Lake WIlson and entered town by the old industrial park.

Congratulations on your unexpected Nashville double coup, particularly that 
road custom with the direct mount Paul Racer medium centerpulls. I put 
center mount Racers on my Rambouillet and bought clearance for both 32mm 
tires and appropriate width Honjos to replace I used to cheat with narrower 
fenders under the Shimano groupless "long" reach. calipers. Made my gravel 
riding around here so sweet that I kept going with it because of the 
Rivendell ride, despite still getting pinch flats from time to time if I 
let the siren song of softer tire inflation lull me onto the rocks. 

Enjoy and thanks for a quick flashback. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 4:27:45 PM UTC-4 Robert Dowtin wrote:

> I suppose this is a ride(s) report. A few weeks ago I was escorted across 
> state lines to procure my first Rivendell road frame, my partner in this 
> heist (a great deal) got himself a super rad hubbuhubbuh tandem. Upon 
> arriving in Nashville we discovered that a first gen Quickbeam frame, that 
> for some reason or another I believed had been previously sold and not 
> available, was very much available. The owner being the rad guy that he is, 
> let me ride his identical orange QB around the block to see if I 
> immediately fell in love with what he described as his #1 favorite 
> bike...of course I did. I bought it and the set of OG QB wheels along with 
> the Road frame w/ Phil Wood wheels that we had traveled all that way to 
> get.  Elated, we rushed back home with our take and by Tuesday at lunchtime 
> I had the Quickbeam fully built and before a storm rolled in I got around 
> the block twice with a massive smile across my face. Just can not believe 
> how great the potential is for fun on this bike...man. 
>
> So, as I waited to get my hands on the last few remaining parts for the 
> Road bike, I struck up conversations with a number of wonderful people on 
> and off this list to include Will over at Rivendell about the history of 
> this bike (the road, not the quickbeam, keep up, we'll be switching back 
> and forth a lot...I'm sure) which it turns out was not a road standard but 
> a road custom made by Joe Starck and painted by Joe Bell. This was all 
> covered in Patrick's thread about the wonderfulness of his custom frame.
>
>
> So. The Quickbeam. After that storm, I rode that bike every single day 
> between 5 and 30 miles a day all over NW Arkansas, running errands, just 
> riding, holy shit with a massive grin and emotions bordering on euphoria. 
> Never have I felt this good on any bike. I love this thing. I love it. 
> Goddamnit this was and is an outstanding frame. OK so that's settled I 
> don't ever care about riding anything else again ever.
>
>
> Last few parts came in for the Road. As I finished putting it together my 
> excitement naturally grew, but I must say I was kinda nervous that the Road 
> was going to steal something away from my new found love for the QB. Lets 
> be honest my QB looks like someone kicked it down a few flights of stairs, 
> and while it is cool it never was amongst Rivendell's prettiest line of 
> frames. 
>
> The Road, however... the lugs and the paint and the head badge and font 
> makes this absolutely the prettiest bike I have ever touched, much less 
> ridden, much much less owned. There may be objectively more attractive 
> bikes out there, somewhere, maybe. 
>
>
> Almost identical situation occurred as the week before only this time 
> torrential rain instead of snow came with this storm. I waited it out 
> having only done the ride around the block a few times with my kid on the 
> brand new bike because I was short on time routine... This couple of 'round 
> the blocks' was just enough to let me know that there was the potential for 
> magic.
>
> Storm lasted for approx. 36hrs…
>
> Two days later I'm off on my first shake down ride, my favorite 20mi out 
> and back to a local spring. Best tasting water around. Fill up and head 
> back. Well, there was a 17mph headwind nearly the entire 

[RBW] Re: First 40+ miles...

[Roberta]

Congratulations on getting this duo. You might find that after riding one 
bike you get home wanting to go on another ride with the other one. 

On Saturday, May 1, 2021 at 4:27:45 PM UTC-4 Robert Dowtin wrote:

> I suppose this is a ride(s) report. A few weeks ago I was escorted across 
> state lines to procure my first Rivendell road frame, my partner in this 
> heist (a great deal) got himself a super rad hubbuhubbuh tandem. Upon 
> arriving in Nashville we discovered that a first gen Quickbeam frame, that 
> for some reason or another I believed had been previously sold and not 
> available, was very much available. The owner being the rad guy that he is, 
> let me ride his identical orange QB around the block to see if I 
> immediately fell in love with what he described as his #1 favorite 
> bike...of course I did. I bought it and the set of OG QB wheels along with 
> the Road frame w/ Phil Wood wheels that we had traveled all that way to 
> get.  Elated, we rushed back home with our take and by Tuesday at lunchtime 
> I had the Quickbeam fully built and before a storm rolled in I got around 
> the block twice with a massive smile across my face. Just can not believe 
> how great the potential is for fun on this bike...man. 
>
> So, as I waited to get my hands on the last few remaining parts for the 
> Road bike, I struck up conversations with a number of wonderful people on 
> and off this list to include Will over at Rivendell about the history of 
> this bike (the road, not the quickbeam, keep up, we'll be switching back 
> and forth a lot...I'm sure) which it turns out was not a road standard but 
> a road custom made by Joe Starck and painted by Joe Bell. This was all 
> covered in Patrick's thread about the wonderfulness of his custom frame.
>
>
> So. The Quickbeam. After that storm, I rode that bike every single day 
> between 5 and 30 miles a day all over NW Arkansas, running errands, just 
> riding, holy shit with a massive grin and emotions bordering on euphoria. 
> Never have I felt this good on any bike. I love this thing. I love it. 
> Goddamnit this was and is an outstanding frame. OK so that's settled I 
> don't ever care about riding anything else again ever.
>
>
> Last few parts came in for the Road. As I finished putting it together my 
> excitement naturally grew, but I must say I was kinda nervous that the Road 
> was going to steal something away from my new found love for the QB. Lets 
> be honest my QB looks like someone kicked it down a few flights of stairs, 
> and while it is cool it never was amongst Rivendell's prettiest line of 
> frames. 
>
> The Road, however... the lugs and the paint and the head badge and font 
> makes this absolutely the prettiest bike I have ever touched, much less 
> ridden, much much less owned. There may be objectively more attractive 
> bikes out there, somewhere, maybe. 
>
>
> Almost identical situation occurred as the week before only this time 
> torrential rain instead of snow came with this storm. I waited it out 
> having only done the ride around the block a few times with my kid on the 
> brand new bike because I was short on time routine... This couple of 'round 
> the blocks' was just enough to let me know that there was the potential for 
> magic.
>
> Storm lasted for approx. 36hrs…
>
> Two days later I'm off on my first shake down ride, my favorite 20mi out 
> and back to a local spring. Best tasting water around. Fill up and head 
> back. Well, there was a 17mph headwind nearly the entire way there. And I 
> just couldn't get my pedal stroke comfortably where I wanted it, nor can I 
> even fully tell you what I mean by that. I did regularly think that it was 
> bizarre that I felt so fast and so uncomfortable, even in the wind. And it 
> was, as I later learned, strangely fast no matter how uncomfortable. 
>
> The pictures of evergreen and mini waterfall are the aforementioned spring 
> area. So then I simply turned around and rode an uncomfortable 10+ miles 
> back home on a phenomenal bike with a great tailwind. I knew the 
> uncomfortableness was do to my form, I just couldn’t figure out why it was 
> so bad and I couldn’t seem to fix it…also my ass my have never hurt this 
> bad from a c17 ever. 
>
> I got home and all of the gps data from my phone said that it was the 
> fastest I had ever done that out and back route. Not sure I believe this at 
> all. I am blown away, I don’t feel like I was pushing myself hard, mostly 
> due to just feeling awkward and uncomfortable. Other than how you would 
> expect to feel in any normal headwind, although, I averaged over 1mph 
> faster than normal. So I got out the tape and started measuring every. 
> single. Thing.
>
> Apparently my saddle was 1.5cm too low and my bars were about 2 cm too 
> low. Whatcha wanna bet that solved my comfort issues?
>
> Next day I did another 20mi out and back to a state park with a lake near 
> our house. Last photos are of the overlook above the lake. Its