Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Steven Sweedler]

FWIW my bikes are set up with B-17 s level and  with the bars level to the
saddle, works for me.

Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire


On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 3:27 AM Jay  wrote:

> Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I
> posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was
> set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very
> different.
>
> A little bit of background before I get to my question...
>
> When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road
> bike (custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It
> was a while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I
> eventually stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used
> padded bib shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr
> ride and only realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and
> tights.  In at least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that
> comfortable.
>
> Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle
> Italia and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I
> used this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable
> improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I
> thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long
> run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride
> for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride
> without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block
> without bibs when using this saddle.
>
> To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini.
> I'm getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather
> for next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only
> change one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.
>
> My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up
> the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the
> saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle
> where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my
> Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm
> balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).
>
> Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Schmidt Dyno

[Corwin Zechar]

Hi Jock -

I had a Schmidt K179 6V-3W Dyno hub many years ago on my original custom. 
As I recall, I paid about $200 for it. Given the availability of the SON 
Deluxe dyno hub, I would pay about $100 - the middle of the range of a 
Shimano DH-3N72 dyno hub. I've also had the Shimano and currently have a 
couple SON Deluxe hubs.

I've never noticed a difference in drag or output from any of the hubs when 
using the same headlight. Of course I'm a guy that bent the Campy 
chainrings on my Raleigh International just from pedaling.

Regards,


Corwin

On Monday, January 29, 2024 at 12:15:49 PM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:

> Y'all, seeking collective wisdom.
>
> What's a new Schmidts K179 6V-3W Dyno hub worth? 
>
> I have one 4 sale, it's takeoff with no evidence of wear / tear @ 32 hole. 
> Not NOS but might a well be.
>
> Best / Jock
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Appaloosa 57cm Purple

[Matthew Williams]

Bump! I'll include the Appaloosa wheelset with the fun multicolored spoke 
nipples:
700c AlexRims DM18
Kenda 700 x 45 tires (no tubes)
Silver hubs & skewers
Used, in very good condition: ridden for 3 years, probably around 500 miles
Only ridden gently and unloaded, never in rain or snow, only on asphalt, 
concrete, and a few fire roads
No jumps, curbs, stunts, or racing



On Monday, October 30, 2023 at 6:24:56 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

Hi everyone, for sale is a new-in-the-box Appaloosa frameset: 

57cm 
Purple 
New in the box. Box is still sealed. 
$1911.88, exactly what I paid. 
Pay via Zelle 

I bought it new from RBW but never built it up or took it out of the box. 

Local pickup in Berkeley: free! 

Points beyond: buyer arranges, pays, and assumes all liability for 
shipping. 

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[RBW] Re: Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Tony Lockhart]

Hi Jay,
Best words of wisdom I can provide is to get tons of saddle time and adjust 
every 3-5 miles...it'll be dialed in before you know it. Also, keep your 
Brooks waxed, don't let it get soaked, only a quarter turn to tighten them 
up (loosen a smidge before you tighten). Yeah, that's all I've got. 

My Leo has a B17 Pro in black, and my Sam has the same but in honey. Was 
just thinking I'd swap since dark gold and tan sidewalls look great with 
brown saddles. Either option is a win/win because those saddles are great. 
Happy trails,
Tony

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 7:27:00 PM UTC-8 Jay wrote:

> Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I 
> posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was 
> set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very 
> different.  
>
> A little bit of background before I get to my question...
>
> When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road 
> bike (custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It 
> was a while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I 
> eventually stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used 
> padded bib shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr 
> ride and only realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and 
> tights.  In at least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that 
> comfortable.
>
> Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle 
> Italia and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I 
> used this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable 
> improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I 
> thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long 
> run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride 
> for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride 
> without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block 
> without bibs when using this saddle.
>
> To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini. 
>  I'm getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather 
> for next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only 
> change one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.
>
> My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up 
> the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the 
> saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle 
> where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my 
> Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm 
> balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).
>
> Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.
>

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[RBW] Re: Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Joe Bernard]

1. I think a level B17 is a mistake, you end up with the rear portion 
sloping down and forcing your wrists into the bars. My B17s (it's all I 
ride) start with the rear perfectly flat and the nose up. It will feel 
awkward at first but give it a few miles before deciding it's too 
front-high. 

2. Padded shorts always made me miserable, then one day I read a Grant 
article saying that added material in saddle and/or shorts contributes to 
friction which increases pain. I ditched the padding and my B17 saddles 
basically disappear when riding, I simply don't think about them. 

Joe Bernard 

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 7:27:00 PM UTC-8 Jay wrote:

> Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I 
> posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was 
> set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very 
> different.  
>
> A little bit of background before I get to my question...
>
> When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road 
> bike (custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It 
> was a while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I 
> eventually stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used 
> padded bib shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr 
> ride and only realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and 
> tights.  In at least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that 
> comfortable.
>
> Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle 
> Italia and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I 
> used this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable 
> improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I 
> thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long 
> run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride 
> for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride 
> without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block 
> without bibs when using this saddle.
>
> To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini. 
>  I'm getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather 
> for next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only 
> change one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.
>
> My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up 
> the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the 
> saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle 
> where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my 
> Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm 
> balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).
>
> Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.
>

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[RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Jay]

Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I 
posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was 
set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very 
different.  

A little bit of background before I get to my question...

When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road bike 
(custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It was a 
while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I eventually 
stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used padded bib 
shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr ride and only 
realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and tights.  In at 
least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that comfortable.

Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle Italia 
and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I used 
this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable 
improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I 
thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long 
run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride 
for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride 
without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block 
without bibs when using this saddle.

To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini.  I'm 
getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather for 
next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only change 
one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.

My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up 
the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the 
saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle 
where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my 
Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm 
balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).

Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[iamkeith]

This was great.  I sometimes am not sure if people are expressing similar 
"values" or "priorities" to my own, only to reach an entirely different 
conclusion.  The '96 All Rounder was perfect confirmation though.  Thanks 
for posting.

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 6:45:46 PM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:

> Troop 21 BSA, many Lake Mills campouts. We even rode our 3-speeds with 
> gear one time. 
>
> Brain workin’ hard today, whew 😰 And this after cold dark wet NorCal ride 
> this aft. I need a long hot shower & nap. 
>
> Jock
>
> On Tue, Jan 30, 2024 at 3:30 PM Bob  wrote:
>
>> Fairly sure he's in Lake Mills, WI: https://gibsbikes.com/
>>
>> His All-Rounder can also be seen here, 
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd84lVNlD-, and elsewhere on his Instagram 
>> account: @bikefarmer
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:49:19 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. 
>>> Note the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Rich in ATL
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner 
 critique high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  
 His personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.

 Steve in Asheville

 On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing 
> you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you 
> all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in 
> the same vein. Enjoy. Video 
> 

 -- 
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>
>
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5af7a7c0-3034-4f35-9c7f-a08bb0d6aea9n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[John Dewey]

Troop 21 BSA, many Lake Mills campouts. We even rode our 3-speeds with gear
one time.

Brain workin’ hard today, whew 😰 And this after cold dark wet NorCal ride
this aft. I need a long hot shower & nap.

Jock

On Tue, Jan 30, 2024 at 3:30 PM Bob  wrote:

> Fairly sure he's in Lake Mills, WI: https://gibsbikes.com/
>
> His All-Rounder can also be seen here,
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd84lVNlD-, and elsewhere on his Instagram
> account: @bikefarmer
>
> --
> Bob
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:49:19 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. Note
>> the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique
>>> high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His
>>> personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.
>>>
>>> Steve in Asheville
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>>>
 It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing
 you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you
 all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in
 the same vein. Enjoy. Video
 
>>>
>>> --
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[Josh C]

Love it, thanks for sharing, got me through my shift at work. 

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 6:32:59 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> Yep, Wisconsin.  Here is a longer video showing him working on his 
> Rivendell All Rounder.  https://youtu.be/ysx21nddMmk
> Doug
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2024, at 6:30 PM, Bob  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Fairly sure he's in Lake Mills, WI: https://gibsbikes.com/
>
> His All-Rounder can also be seen here, 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd84lVNlD-, and elsewhere on his Instagram 
> account: @bikefarmer
>
> --
> Bob
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:49:19 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. Note 
>> the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique 
>>> high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His 
>>> personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.
>>>
>>> Steve in Asheville
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>>>
 It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing 
 you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you 
 all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in 
 the same vein. Enjoy. Video 
 
>>>
>>> -- 
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> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[Doug Hansford]

Yep, Wisconsin.  Here is a longer video showing him working on his Rivendell All Rounder.  https://youtu.be/ysx21nddMmkDougSent from my iPhoneOn Jan 30, 2024, at 6:30 PM, Bob  wrote:Fairly sure he's in Lake Mills, WI: https://gibsbikes.com/His All-Rounder can also be seen here, https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd84lVNlD-, and elsewhere on his Instagram account: @bikefarmer--BobOn Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:49:19 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. Note the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.Best,Rich in ATLOn Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.Steve in AshevilleOn Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in the same vein. Enjoy. Video



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[RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[Bob]

Fairly sure he's in Lake Mills, WI: https://gibsbikes.com/

His All-Rounder can also be seen here, 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUd84lVNlD-, and elsewhere on his Instagram 
account: @bikefarmer

--
Bob

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:49:19 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. Note 
> the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:
>
>> Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique 
>> high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His 
>> personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.
>>
>> Steve in Asheville
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>>> It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing 
>>> you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you 
>>> all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in 
>>> the same vein. Enjoy. Video 
>>> 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[RichS]

Steve, your question about his location. It appears to be Wisconsin. Note 
the BKEFRMR license plate at 2:26 in the video.

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 5:12:13 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote:

> Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique 
> high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His 
> personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.
>
> Steve in Asheville
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing 
>> you'll even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you 
>> all might enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in 
>> the same vein. Enjoy. Video 
>> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[Steve]

Thanks for sharing Doug. It was refreshing to hear a shop owner critique 
high end race bikes. Any idea where the guy's shop is located?  His 
personal All Rounder looked pretty sharp.

Steve in Asheville

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 8:14:34 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing you'll 
> even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you all might 
> enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in the same 
> vein. Enjoy. Video 

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[RBW] Re: Manivelle basket rack on Sam Hillborne

[Teague Scott]

This rasket has had me intrigued for a while now! Cool to see one in use 
here.

What do you think of the Manivelle? How does it hold up to a decent load? 
Does it get a little noodly? I'd plan on using it on my basketpacker. I 
currently use a big ol' Surly rack with a 139 strapped to it. Works well 
and feels solid, but it's a hefty setup that I'd like to pare down a little.

Thanks,

Teague in Boise

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[RBW] FS: Kid seat + rear rack

[Jesse Marshburn]

Hi y'all,

My kids are growing and it's time to move this kid hauling setup along. For 
sale is a Plescher rear rack and Plescher child seat. The rear rack is very 
similar to the rat trap-style ‘Clem rack’ that Riv used to sell. I believe 
Riv still sells pannier rails for the Clem rack, so the rails may work for 
this rack as well. The Plescher child seat fits into holes on the top of 
the rear rack, so I would like to sell the rack and seat as a package deal. 
I was inspired to use this setup by Keven at Riv who hauled his kid around 
on the same setup for years (see pics). I used this rack + seat for around 
5 years on my 60 cm Cheviot and it worked wonderfully (see pics). The seat 
easily detaches from the rack so it’s easy to use the rack as a saddlebag 
support or whatever when you don’t need to haul a kid around. The seat is 
in great shape…my kid’s stickers even came off of it cleanly!  Regarding 
the rack…full disclosure: the drive-side, forward strut has a slight 
bend/crack in it that I just noticed while photographing it to sell. I 
tried to photograph the bend/crack as best I could. I am not 100% sure that 
the strut can be replaced, but I’d like to think it could be. Glad to 
discuss this in further detail with a potential buyer. Asking $100 + 
shipping from Atlanta, GA for the rack and seat. Thanks for having a look.

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TzUZjx6vP2UuzpFB6


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Re: [RBW] Re: Knobby tires and fenders

['Michael Kashuba' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Another data point…..I’m running 700 X50mm (actual measurement is 48/49mm width) SOMA Cazaderos with VO fluted 63mm fenders on my 60cm Appaloosa. All is fine clearance wise as long as I don’t mud up…☺️Mike in Fair Oaks, CASent from my iPhoneOn Jan 30, 2024, at 7:41 AM, Steve  wrote:Not a direct comparison, but I can share that I've run 42mm Knobbies (WTB Resolutes) with both 52mm VO Zeppelins and 58mm Tanaka smooth fenders. I also ran a pair of 40mm Continental Terra Speeds (low profile knobs) under the Tanakas. Each of those combinations would occasionally kick leaves and small  sticks up into the front fender when riding gated fire roads, sometimes necessitating a stop to clear the debris. My turf, however, is woodsy Appalachian national forest -- a bit different from Patrick's high desert.  This past autumn when the leaves began to fall I pulled the fenders off my 'dirt bike' and mounted the largest tires the bike would accommodate; 48mm RH Oracle Ridge knobbies. I've been delighted with the bigger tires. The fenders have been safely stored away, waiting for the day when I decide to mount some 38mm RH Barlow Passes on it, swap the upright bars for drops and take it on the road.Steve in AshevilleOn Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:56:47 AM UTC-5 Tom Wyland wrote:I'm not sure if this answers the question but perhaps it will help. I run 63mm VO Fluted fenders on my Platypus.  The stated max tire size is 48mm with fenders.  I have the smooth RH Hatcher Pass (48mm) on Velocity Dyads (so they measure closer to 45mm but greater diameter). I switched to knobby Oracle Ridge tires of the same size, and my fenders rubbed on my rear light mounting bolt (inside the fender). So they do require greater clearance for the tire only. I just had to make a very slight rear stay adjustment (2mm) to keep the tires from rubbing.In general though I prefer at least 10mm of clearance for non-knobby tires. I mostly just do the fender width minus the stated tire width instead of dealing with measuring the gaps everywhere.  So 63mm-48mm is 15mm of stated clearance.TomOn Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 2:16:38 AM UTC+1 ascpgh wrote:Seems like a similar question to the fenders off road (with smooth tires) question and maxims.I've got no knobby tires as of yet. I've ridden both my Rambouillet and Coast rando off road and only find the front mudflap an issue. I use two small bulldog binder clips  to affix the flaps (with their handle bales removed once mounted) and take them off when surface conditions are such that I'm picking things up at a rate higher than a low grade nuisance. I'm not riding at speeds high enough to cause any drama worth posting on social media. If my conditions and riding reach the point of requiring greater traction I would be all over the appropriate sized RH knobs for having dimensions that match those of the slick (file tread) tires for easy clearance consideration instead of beta testing all that myself with others' inputs. After Bill's brevet report I'm eagerly anticipating a long ride down the GAP which ihas n the past included some snowpack near the divide and plenty of recently unfrozen limestone dust trail surface that gets a bit spongy and slightly wheel spinny if trying to push yourself. They have a very nice uniform low height to width knob profile so they don't wobble under pedal or steering input. I learned about that with OG Specialized Hardpack 26" x 2.2"  riding trails off the Continental Divide in south central Colorado, 1988. Flexy knobs, taller on the sides, will let you down. Abruptly. Andy CheathamPittsburghOn Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 4:36:55 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:I am thinking of getting a second wheelset for the 2016 Chauncey Matthews "road bike for dirt" to supplement the very nice, very all-rounder-type 48 mm labeled/50 actual Soma Supple Vitesse SL wheelset. The second wheelset would have knobbies for sand, since the Somas just don't have the float and directional stability that I need for our sandy trails.Riv content: I told Chauncey to measure my 2 (at the time) custom Riv Roads and make the new bike handle as much l like those as possible. (And with the Somas it does, wonderful; the 60 mm Big Ones wallowed and wandered --- not horrible, just not Rivendell-like -- tho' they floated well over sand.)I am thinking of using RH knobbies -- since the reportedly once superlatively light and fast Thunder Burt has gained oz and stiffness compared to its first edition. (730 grams for the 700C X 2.35!! The 2.35 Big Ones are a digitally true 450 grams, and the F Freds that the TBs replaced were a true 360 at a true 50 mm.)The 55 mm Fleecer Ridges (per specs ELs would probably measure very close to 60 tubeless on my 27 mm IW rims) for max float; but this would mean removing the Kelpie fenders. I like fenders. I live in the high desert with an average 9" of rain a year but we have a lot of dust and full fenders keep a great deal of it off my legs and off of the bike. Also, the Matthews was on

[RBW] Re: Knobby tires and fenders

[Steve]

Not a direct comparison, but I can share that I've run 42mm Knobbies (WTB 
Resolutes) with both 52mm VO Zeppelins and 58mm Tanaka smooth fenders. I 
also ran a pair of 40mm Continental Terra Speeds (low profile knobs) under 
the Tanakas. Each of those combinations would occasionally kick leaves and 
small  sticks up into the front fender when riding gated fire roads, 
sometimes necessitating a stop to clear the debris. My turf, however, is 
woodsy Appalachian national forest -- a bit different from Patrick's high 
desert.  

This past autumn when the leaves began to fall I pulled the fenders off my 
'dirt bike' and mounted the largest tires the bike would accommodate; 48mm 
RH Oracle Ridge knobbies. I've been delighted with the bigger tires. The 
fenders have been safely stored away, waiting for the day when I decide to 
mount some 38mm RH Barlow Passes on it, swap the upright bars for drops and 
take it on the road.

Steve in Asheville

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 3:56:47 AM UTC-5 Tom Wyland wrote:

> I'm not sure if this answers the question but perhaps it will help. I run 
> 63mm VO Fluted fenders on my Platypus.  The stated max tire size is 48mm 
> with fenders.  I have the smooth RH Hatcher Pass (48mm) on Velocity Dyads 
> (so they measure closer to 45mm but greater diameter). I switched to knobby 
> Oracle Ridge tires of the same size, and my fenders rubbed on my rear light 
> mounting bolt (inside the fender). So they do require greater clearance for 
> the tire only. I just had to make a very slight rear stay adjustment (2mm) 
> to keep the tires from rubbing.
>
> In general though I prefer at least 10mm of clearance for non-knobby 
> tires. I mostly just do the fender width minus the stated tire width 
> instead of dealing with measuring the gaps everywhere.  So 63mm-48mm is 
> 15mm of stated clearance.
>
> Tom
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 2:16:38 AM UTC+1 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> Seems like a similar question to the fenders off road (with smooth tires) 
>> question and maxims.
>>
>> I've got no knobby tires as of yet. I've ridden both my Rambouillet and 
>> Coast rando off road and only find the front mudflap an issue. I use two 
>> small bulldog binder clips  to affix the flaps (with their handle bales 
>> removed once mounted) and take them off when surface conditions are such 
>> that I'm picking things up at a rate higher than a low grade nuisance. I'm 
>> not riding at speeds high enough to cause any drama worth posting on social 
>> media. 
>>
>> If my conditions and riding reach the point of requiring greater traction 
>> I would be all over the appropriate sized RH knobs for having dimensions 
>> that match those of the slick (file tread) tires for easy clearance 
>> consideration instead of beta testing all that myself with others' inputs. 
>>
>> After Bill's brevet report I'm eagerly anticipating a long ride down the 
>> GAP which ihas n the past included some snowpack near the divide and plenty 
>> of recently unfrozen limestone dust trail surface that gets a bit spongy 
>> and slightly wheel spinny if trying to push yourself. They have a very nice 
>> uniform low height to width knob profile so they don't wobble under pedal 
>> or steering input. I learned about that with OG Specialized Hardpack 26" x 
>> 2.2"  riding trails off the Continental Divide in south central Colorado, 
>> 1988. Flexy knobs, taller on the sides, will let you down. Abruptly. 
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 4:36:55 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I am thinking of getting a second wheelset for the 2016 Chauncey 
>>> Matthews "road bike for dirt" to supplement the very nice, very 
>>> all-rounder-type 48 mm labeled/50 actual Soma Supple Vitesse SL wheelset. 
>>> The second wheelset would have knobbies for sand, since the Somas just 
>>> don't have the float and directional stability that I need for our sandy 
>>> trails.
>>>
>>> Riv content: I told Chauncey to measure my 2 (at the time) custom Riv 
>>> Roads and make the new bike handle as much l like those as possible. (And 
>>> with the Somas it does, wonderful; the 60 mm Big Ones wallowed and wandered 
>>> --- not horrible, just not Rivendell-like -- tho' they floated well over 
>>> sand.)
>>>
>>> I am thinking of using RH knobbies -- since the reportedly once 
>>> superlatively light and fast Thunder Burt has gained oz and stiffness 
>>> compared to its first edition. *(730 grams for the 700C X 2.35!!* The 
>>> 2.35 Big Ones are a digitally true 450 grams, and the F Freds that the TBs 
>>> replaced were a true 360 at a true 50 mm.)
>>>
>>> The 55 mm Fleecer Ridges (per specs ELs would probably measure very 
>>> close to 60 tubeless on my 27 mm IW rims) for max float; but this would 
>>> mean removing the Kelpie fenders. 
>>>
>>> I like fenders. I live in the high desert with an average 9" of rain a 
>>> year but we have a *lot* of dust and full fenders keep a great deal of 
>>> it off my legs and o

[RBW] Re: WTB a Mark's Rack (double-strutted)

[Bill Lindsay]

Tom M

I sent you a private message asking for these photos and your price.  If 
you haven't seen that, check your spam folder.  I'm interested, but I still 
would shoot to keep it close to $100 total.  Otherwise I'll buy a new 
complete one at Riv HQ when I pick up my new Roadeo.  

BL in EC

On Monday, January 29, 2024 at 5:39:25 AM UTC-8 Tom M wrote:

> I have one, but would have to ship because I'm in Virginia. If you're 
> interested, I can send photos.
> Thanks,
> Tom Milani
> Alexandria, VA
>
> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 12:03:24 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I've got a Mark's rack, but it's in Michigan.  I have one more bike that 
>> would be made more useful with a Mark's rack.  There's two things to do: 
>>  either remove the Mark's rack from the Michigan bike next time I'm out 
>> there -OR- buy yours!
>>
>> I'm in the market for a Mark's Rack (double-strutted).  I'm looking to 
>> spend $100, ideally in my hands for $100.  If you're in the East Bay and we 
>> can arrange a hand-off, awesome.  If you have the chassis of a Mark's Rack 
>> with no hardware, I can also make that work from my parts stash, but I'm 
>> not looking to pay $100 for just a chassis.  
>>
>> Let me know if you want to convert a rack to cash
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Bikeshop A-Hole Video

[Doug H.]

It's a fun video despite the title and if you watch the whole thing you'll 
even see a Rivendell All Rounder for a few seconds. I thought you all might 
enjoy this on the heels of Bike Snob's Outside article. It's in the same 
vein. Enjoy. Video 

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[RBW] Re: Knobby tires and fenders

[Tom Wyland]

I'm not sure if this answers the question but perhaps it will help. I run 
63mm VO Fluted fenders on my Platypus.  The stated max tire size is 48mm 
with fenders.  I have the smooth RH Hatcher Pass (48mm) on Velocity Dyads 
(so they measure closer to 45mm but greater diameter). I switched to knobby 
Oracle Ridge tires of the same size, and my fenders rubbed on my rear light 
mounting bolt (inside the fender). So they do require greater clearance for 
the tire only. I just had to make a very slight rear stay adjustment (2mm) 
to keep the tires from rubbing.

In general though I prefer at least 10mm of clearance for non-knobby tires. 
I mostly just do the fender width minus the stated tire width instead of 
dealing with measuring the gaps everywhere.  So 63mm-48mm is 15mm of stated 
clearance.

Tom

On Tuesday, January 30, 2024 at 2:16:38 AM UTC+1 ascpgh wrote:

> Seems like a similar question to the fenders off road (with smooth tires) 
> question and maxims.
>
> I've got no knobby tires as of yet. I've ridden both my Rambouillet and 
> Coast rando off road and only find the front mudflap an issue. I use two 
> small bulldog binder clips  to affix the flaps (with their handle bales 
> removed once mounted) and take them off when surface conditions are such 
> that I'm picking things up at a rate higher than a low grade nuisance. I'm 
> not riding at speeds high enough to cause any drama worth posting on social 
> media. 
>
> If my conditions and riding reach the point of requiring greater traction 
> I would be all over the appropriate sized RH knobs for having dimensions 
> that match those of the slick (file tread) tires for easy clearance 
> consideration instead of beta testing all that myself with others' inputs. 
>
> After Bill's brevet report I'm eagerly anticipating a long ride down the 
> GAP which ihas n the past included some snowpack near the divide and plenty 
> of recently unfrozen limestone dust trail surface that gets a bit spongy 
> and slightly wheel spinny if trying to push yourself. They have a very nice 
> uniform low height to width knob profile so they don't wobble under pedal 
> or steering input. I learned about that with OG Specialized Hardpack 26" x 
> 2.2"  riding trails off the Continental Divide in south central Colorado, 
> 1988. Flexy knobs, taller on the sides, will let you down. Abruptly. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 4:36:55 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I am thinking of getting a second wheelset for the 2016 Chauncey Matthews 
>> "road bike for dirt" to supplement the very nice, very all-rounder-type 48 
>> mm labeled/50 actual Soma Supple Vitesse SL wheelset. The second wheelset 
>> would have knobbies for sand, since the Somas just don't have the float and 
>> directional stability that I need for our sandy trails.
>>
>> Riv content: I told Chauncey to measure my 2 (at the time) custom Riv 
>> Roads and make the new bike handle as much l like those as possible. (And 
>> with the Somas it does, wonderful; the 60 mm Big Ones wallowed and wandered 
>> --- not horrible, just not Rivendell-like -- tho' they floated well over 
>> sand.)
>>
>> I am thinking of using RH knobbies -- since the reportedly once 
>> superlatively light and fast Thunder Burt has gained oz and stiffness 
>> compared to its first edition. *(730 grams for the 700C X 2.35!!* The 
>> 2.35 Big Ones are a digitally true 450 grams, and the F Freds that the TBs 
>> replaced were a true 360 at a true 50 mm.)
>>
>> The 55 mm Fleecer Ridges (per specs ELs would probably measure very close 
>> to 60 tubeless on my 27 mm IW rims) for max float; but this would mean 
>> removing the Kelpie fenders. 
>>
>> I like fenders. I live in the high desert with an average 9" of rain a 
>> year but we have a *lot* of dust and full fenders keep a great deal of 
>> it off my legs and off of the bike. Also, the Matthews was one of my 2 
>> "rain bikes" -- puddles and snow melt included.
>>
>> I used these fenders with 60 mm Big Ones, but those were smooth tread and 
>> even so barely cleared under the seatstay bridge; about 5 mm.
>>
>> Obviously, using ~60 mm knobbies with these fenders would be foolish, and 
>> I've been thinking that perhaps the Oracle Ridge might work with them, at 
>> barely 50 mm extrapolated from the website; the 50 mm Somas have perhaps 
>> just shy of 2 cm of clearance at that tight spot under the seatstay bridge 
>> and 3 cm+ under the fork crown. (The Big Ones measured ~29 1/2" tall, the 
>> Somas ~28 1/2" tall, so 1/2 inch/~12mm difference.)
>>
>> So I'm curious if any of youse use fenders with knobbies and:
>>
>> 1. What is the minimum gap your require?
>>
>> 2. how big are the knobs? IOW, are small, even knobs as on the RH 
>> knobbies safer with fenders than the big fat knobs on real mtb tires?
>>
>> 3. What do you say in particular to ~50 mm Oracle Ridges under full 
>> fenders with the clearances described?
>>
>> I cannot use the aftermarket stay b