Re: [RBW] Poll: What are your single speed gears?

[Doug Litchfield]

Hello Bill,

May I proffer this..
First, the much maligned in some circles, Sturmey S3X .
Quick fiddling with Sheldon's gear calculator yield gearing similar to the
one you mention
*For 700 X 32 / 32-622 tire with 170 mm cranks**With Custom Sprocket(s)
Cassette**With Sturmey-Archer 3-speed fixed gear S3X Rear Hub*0.63 (Low)0.751.0
(High)
531752.6
531763.1
531784.2

This setup is how one of my S3X bikes is equipped.


Second, if WI truly lights your candle, I believe you can change out one
cog (subject to availability!) for another.
WI gives you instructions on removing cogs from the body, for replacement,
in their box.


Doug
(Mine are all S*B*X's 'cuz I have a sharpie and I'm not afraid to use it!)
Rock Springs, WY





On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 2:54 PM, JL  wrote:

> Lee,
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2014, at 1:26 PM, Lee Chae  wrote:
>
> JL: Riv sells them!
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:10 PM, JL  wrote:
>
>> Oh. I spoke too quickly.  I used a popular internet search tool and found
>> the 16/19 freewheels.  White industries no longer lists the size but it can
>> still be had.
>>
>> Jason (soon to have a two speed single speed)
>> SF,CA
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>> Thanks and thanks.  This has me liking my 35/38 idea.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Lots for sale - frames and parts! Salsa, Paul, Brooks, Thomson

[Doug Litchfield]

Hello Aaron,

I would like to purchase the "Nitto Technomic, 5cm (yes, 5cm!), never used
- $20"
how would you like payment?
Thank you,
Doug


On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 5:54 PM, Aaron Schmidt  wrote:

> Folks -
>
>
> I am thinning out the ever growing collection of bike surplus. Would love
> to find a happy home for these parts. Prices include shipping unless
> otherwise noted. (The frames only, really). Knock off a few bucks for
> pickup in Portland, Oregon, USA. Pics available upon request!
>
>
> Some of the below isn't 100% Riv-esque, so apologies in advance for
> offending any sensibilities!
>
> *
> *
>
> *
> *
>
> *Brakes*
>
> (1) Paul Neo-Retro (great shape) - $75
>
> (1) Paul Touring Canti (great shape) - $75
>
> Campagnolo Centaur Skeleton brakes (pair) - $40
>
> *Handlebars*
>
> Complete Nitto mustache setup (bars, stem, Shimano levers, cables,
> wrap/shellac/twine) normal wear - $150
>
> Salsa Road Pro, width = ?, normal wear - $25
>
> Surly Open Bar, 40mm rise, ridden for a few days, like new - $45
>
>
> *Stems*
>
> Thomson X2, black, 90cm,  +/- 10*, 31.8 - $40
>
> Thomson X2, black, 100cm, +/- 10*, 31.8 - $40
>
> Nitto Technomic, 5cm (yes, 5cm!), never used - $20
>
> Nitto Dynamic, 13cm, some rust discoloration where it was inserted - $20
>
>
> *Cranksets*
>
> SRAM Force Compact crankset  w/  GPX BB (50/34) - $50
>
> Used, scratched, but structurally sound (there’s an alloy core)
>
>
> Campagnolo Compact Chorus crankset w/ BB, silver (50/34) - $50
>
> Used, scratched, but totally good
>
>
> *Frames*
>
> Salsa Primero frameset “53cm” 
> (590.8mm effective TT) - $300 w/o black Chris King headset, $350
> with headset + shipping
>
> Sort of rare Salsa frame. S3 tubing, Alpha Q carbon fork. Max tires - 28c
> in front, 25c in rear. Plenty of normal wear on the paint, nothing
> structural.
>
>
> Salsa Las Cruces frame , 60cm -
> $300 + shipping
>
> Big clearances, scandium, fenderable. Normal wear on the paint, nothing
> structural. Buy the frame and the below fork too for $400, Cane Creek
> headset included.
>
>
> *Fork*
>
> Wound-Up Team X carbon canti fork (with fender eyelets), long steerer -
> $130
>
> The fork retails for over $300 and has only one season on it.
> http://www.woundupcomposites.com/team_x.html
>
>
> *Headsets*
>
> Chris King, 1.125" threadless, silver - $70
>
> Campagnolo Chorus, 1" threaded, silver - $40
>
>
> *Saddle*
>
> Brooks Swallow, black, new - $160
>
> Mounted but never ridden
>
>
> *Seatpost*
>
> Thomson seat post, black, 27.2mm - $45
>
>
> *Shifters*
>
> SRAM Force DoubleTap brifters - $150
>
> In great shape
>
>
> *Shoes*
>
> Sidi Dominator 5, 43.5, black - $150
>
> Used for two rides. Not funky in any way.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

[Doug Litchfield]

I agree with the previous postersTake the front end off and look for
damage and size discrepancies.
This sounds extremely unsafe!

Doug


On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 9:56 AM, CycloFiend wrote:

> on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
> > I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of
> > alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the
> > handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is
> what
> > I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were
> not
> > straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been
> looked
> > at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just
> > had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He
> > fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars
> out
> > of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the
> bolt,
> > really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the
> stem
> > and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where
> > they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though
> I'm
> > finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have
> the
> > handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem.
>
> Let me get this straight:  the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so
> your handlebars stay in place?  And he let you and your bicycle out of the
> shop?
>
> There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized
> wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are
> particularly "safe" failures.
>
> Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going
> on.  The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like
> something which should be ignored.
>
> Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact.
>  The
> bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset
> the
> angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is
> wrong.
>
> - J
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
>
>
> "I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode
> several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it
> wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew,
> and went in."
> -- Neal Stephenson, "Zodiac"
>
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Re: [RBW] My name is Bob

[Doug Litchfield]

en masse...

Hi Bob

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Vindicated Once Again

[Doug Litchfield]

Oh my !!!
Only in the underground environment..
My Western Electric mentor told me NEVER use zip ties. Pros always sew their
cables...(insert smiley face here)
So now, I can't help it..I sew pumps to top bars, cable housing to the
frame, bags to handlbar or saddle..christmas lights to railings, plants to
stakes.

D.L.


On Thu, Dec 23, 2010 at 4:02 PM, George Schick  wrote:

> I learned quickly when I began working in the telecom industry (over
> 40 years ago) that BLACK zip-ties are the ONLY ones that will remain
> largely unaffected by weather and UV radiation.  All other colors
> eventually fade, crack, and break.  That's also the reason why the
> outer sheath on plastic insulated telephone cable is black.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] bag for mustache bars?

[Doug Litchfield]

http://www.frostriver.com/bike_bags/sawbill_trail.html

D.L.


On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:04 PM, andrew hill  wrote:

> I'm looking for a front-bag to hang beneath m-bars on a Romulus.  M-bars
> and bags don't seem to go together at all well.  That being said, I'd like
> to try a bar-bag instead of a front rack on this bike but I've got a 12-cm
> stem on, so it's a hair more room than usual.
>
> Any suggestions??
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: do you ever get tired of....

[Doug Litchfield]

motorsickleI blame Arlo Guthrie.

D.L.


On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 1:07 PM, XO-1.org Rough Riders <
adventureco...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I don't understand why this is difficult for some people. Do they lose
> their train of thought before they finish reading the name, because
> it's sooo long?
>
> It's like all those people who say "axe" for "ask" or "nook-you-lur"
> for "nuclear" or "motorsickle" for "motorcycle". I don't get it, but
> ours is not to understand ignorance, only to help ameliorate it.
>
> - Chris Kostman
> La Jolla, CA
> http://www.adventurecorps.com
> http://www.XO-1.org
> http://www.the508.com
>
> > On Jun 17, 7:48 am, Blindrobert  wrote:
> >
> > > Your friends pronouncing your bike's maker as "RivenDALE"
> >
> > > Even my cyclist friends do itI can only imagine that Grant and
> > > crew are driven to near madness.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Which side cutters?

[Doug Litchfield]

I have been using these fencing pliers for years.
Not something you'd put in the saddlebag, but..

https://www.galvinpower.org/best-fencing-pliers/#1_Channellock_85_Fence_Tool_Plier

Doug

On Mon, Dec 20, 2021 at 5:48 AM Ben Mihovk  wrote:

> I have a pair of Pedros on the way to me as we speak...I'm going to do a
> total refresh on my cables and housing on my Sam in the next few days and
> needed something I could count on for clean cable and shifter housing
> cutting.
>
> I've cut shifter cable with cheap diagonal cutters with success and
> failure. In my experience, the difference was technique. A strong, quick
> "SNAP" of the tool yields a clean cut. A tentative one leads to bending
> wires and fraying.
>
> Ben in Omaha
>
>
> On Monday, December 20, 2021 at 5:54:22 AM UTC-6 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> I'm quite happy with the pair of Pedros that I've had for many years.
>>
>> Nick
>>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Doug Litchfield]

Maybe the Riv sensibilities wander even further afield?
http://pelotonmagazine.com/pages/lemond-bikes-radical-geometry/


On Thu, May 12, 2016 at 3:21 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
>
> On 05/12/2016 12:56 PM, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
>> Yeah, but brakes are the exception to that. You can run long reach brakes
>> with pretty much any brand of road levers. So if anything, the author's
>> comment seems quite misleading to me. The way it's written suggests that if
>> you have Campy/SRAM you're out of luck to run long reach brakes. Which is
>> obviously not true.
>>
>>
>
> Or maybe he just means it's a shame Campagnolo and SRAM don't make long
> reach brakes?
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam Tire and Gearing Recommendations

[Doug Litchfield]

Hello Patrick,
Wishing many happy miles on your new ride.
Were it I, I would go with a lower tooth count on the fixed side, with
slightly higher  on the free side.
To me it feels easier to push a higher gear fixed.
And use the freewheel side for the rough stuff or the "spent" ride out/home!
In my experience the nine speed chain Surly suggests does not play well
with the WI freewheels.
For a bike that was doing roughly what you propose, the setup I finally
landed on was 42/40 in front and 17/19t dingle with a Dicta(?) 20t
freewheel on the flip A gear to get there, a couple of choices to ride
there, and a gear to drag my tired carcass home.
Yup, I walked up some hills but this spread worked for me.
Now the bike sports a Sturmey S3X.
I concur with Phillip, as I got stronger the free side went untouched for
years!
Don't forget to factor dropout length in your tooth calculations..

Doug Litchfield
Rock Springs, WY


On Wed, Apr 30, 2014 at 5:08 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Do you find this true of SS and fixed, or just fixed (due to wheel inertia
> pushing you along)?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> Also, I've found that a single drivetrain allows a higher "comfortable"
>> gear than simply not shifting a derailleur'd bike.
>>
>> Philip
>> www.biketinker.com
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam Tire and Gearing Recommendations

[Doug Litchfield]

?
Dave's not here.

Au contrair mon ami!
42 it was.
The SRAM 8 sp. chain works okay.
I recall, somewhere on the interwebs, a blogger saying they used 1/8th inch
chain with the Dingle, I *seriously* doubt that would work.
I stuck with the 9sp chain. No worries.
Pulled the WI freewheel and replaced with an ACS not Dicta freewheel.
Longevity? You can buy a lot of ACS freewheels for the price of the WI ones.
And it hardly got used!

Doug


On Wed, Apr 30, 2014 at 7:04 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Thanks for the details, Dave. I presume that's supposed to be 32/40 in the
> front? Can an 8-speed chain be run on the Dingle Cog and Dos Enos happily?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 30, 2014 6:28:22 PM UTC-6, D.L. wrote:
>
>> Hello Patrick,
>> Wishing many happy miles on your new ride.
>> Were it I, I would go with a lower tooth count on the fixed side, with
>> slightly higher  on the free side.
>> To me it feels easier to push a higher gear fixed.
>> And use the freewheel side for the rough stuff or the "spent" ride
>> out/home!
>> In my experience the nine speed chain Surly suggests does not play well
>> with the WI freewheels.
>> For a bike that was doing roughly what you propose, the setup I finally
>> landed on was 42/40 in front and 17/19t dingle with a Dicta(?) 20t
>> freewheel on the flip A gear to get there, a couple of choices to ride
>> there, and a gear to drag my tired carcass home.
>> Yup, I walked up some hills but this spread worked for me.
>> Now the bike sports a Sturmey S3X.
>> I concur with Phillip, as I got stronger the free side went untouched for
>> years!
>> Don't forget to factor dropout length in your tooth calculations..
>>
>> Doug Litchfield
>> Rock Springs, WY
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 30, 2014 at 5:08 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> Do you find this true of SS and fixed, or just fixed (due to wheel
>>> inertia pushing you along)?
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> Also, I've found that a single drivetrain allows a higher "comfortable"
>>>> gear than simply not shifting a derailleur'd bike.
>>>>
>>>> Philip
>>>> www.biketinker.com
>>>>
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shipping, Knickers, and Newbaums. Some observation.

[Doug Litchfield]

I also use USPS as much as possible.
>From paying ebay and other remote purchases when possible with Postal Money
orders to shipping my own sales almost exclusively with them.
And my regular mail carrier will sometimes drop packages off earlier than
normal on his route...
"I thought you might like these early."
He knows it's *the* part I'm waiting for to finish/start/tweak a build!
Can't beat it.
The folks I have dealt with are good people...unfortunately treated poorly;

"Not e-mail's steady encroachment on snail mail's territory, not a
prolonged economic downturn or the growing popularity of corporate shipping
services, but government-mandated payments to pre-fund health care benefits
for postal retirees -- *75 years into the future*."
Huffington Post (emphasis added).

Doug


On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 8:49 PM, Goshen Peter 
wrote:

> I also prefer USPS, the shipping is just a fast nowadays, you get tracking
> and its cheaper. Oh, and they wouldn't need zero interest loans if they
> weren't the only federal agency required to fully fund an employee's
> pension when they are hired. Find me a company that can operate in the
> black under that condition.
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2014 at 9:16 PM, Matthew J  wrote:
>
>> I use USPS when I sell parts.  I like them a lot.  Less expensive, fast,
>> reliable, and their new website is real easy to use.
>>
>> Living in an urban multi-family building without a doorman, USPS is the
>> only carrier that delivers when I am not there (they have special keys that
>> open the common door and drop the box in front of my apartment door).
>>
>> UPS means I have to arrange deliveries at work.  Maybe I am old fashioned
>> but I always feel weird getting personal items at work.
>>
>> For a unique shipper like Riv, it is tolerable.  If the UPS only vendor
>> has a real competitor that ships USPS I always go with the USPS.
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: adjustable angle brake levers?

[Doug Litchfield]

Kai,
I use guidonnets same as the linked, on one of my "trail" bikes.
It is a converted older road bike (4sp, 27in Bloodhound tires, etc.) with
inverted albatross bars on it.
And they stop me fine with caliper brakes on any decline I have nerve
enough to ride.
They have plenty of pull with no worries of bottoming out.
I like them for the ability to brake from the curve, weight forward, rather
than at the grips with weight back, for better front wheel control.
I would imagine with canti's you would dial the pads closer than with
normal MTB levers,
but would work fine.
Pavement? No problem!


Doug



On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Kainalu  wrote:

> Those are great! Thanks for the link. But how much less power than
> mountain bike levers? I'm considering doing my own rotating brake levers by
> cutting and using a couple bolts and a tap set, wouldn't fulfill my
> adjustable dream, just allow for a one time change. If those Diacompes
> aren't going to stop me at the bottom of the Williamsburg them I'll have
> little choice outside of no choice.
> -Kai
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New product: quill stem with 31.8 open clamp

[Doug Litchfield]

The F5 is IMHO way nicer looking.
But the variety of options with the Nitto is a plus.

Doug

On Wed, Dec 2, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Irving  wrote:

> Nitto also has a decently affordable quill 31.8
>  in a
> wide range of choices and two options in angle.
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 9:22:04 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> A Chinese company, Factory Five, has produced a 1" quill stem with an
>> open, 31.8 mm clamp area ($100 retail).  Now, you can fit modern 31.8
>> diameter handlebars to your bike with a 1" steerer without using a
>> quill-to-threadless adapter.
>>
>> The appearance is pretty nice: it has a polished silver finish and
>> traditional geometry.  The oversized clamp is out of proportion to the rest
>> of the stem, but it still looks much more traditional than a threadless
>> stem.  With the open clamp, you could fit bars with a closed loop (like
>> Jones Loop).
>>
>> Currently, it's only available with a 150 height and 90 mm extension
>> (about as tall as a Nitto Pearl, not as tall as a Technomic/Tallux), but
>> they say they'll make more sizes/extensions if demand allows.
>>
>>
>> http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/12/02/factory-five-titan-stem-smoothly-brings-modern-bars-to-classic-frames/
>>
>> I know that there are some custom builders making this type of stem; can
>> anyone share them, or other production 31.8/quill stems?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Tim
>>
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