Re: [RBW] Gus owners, does your RD/shifter cable rub against kickstand bracket?

2023-01-18 Thread Hunter Harr
Had this problem on two of my Sam Hillbornes over the years. My solution 
was to take a hacksaw to them, and just cut the corners off the offending 
area at 45 degrees. Used painters tape on the stay to protect it, then just 
filed and sanded the the exposed end flat. Took the cut off piece to drug 
store and found some nail polish that was close match and just touched up 
the one exposed edge. Sorry, no pictures and did not have an issue with 
current Sam or Joe.

On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 1:53:29 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Very interesting. My rear derailleur has yet to arrive but this got my 
> attention! So I installed the guide to eyeball the situation. It does not 
> look like it will be an issue but it certainly will not take me by 
> surprise.:)
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 18, 2023, at 10:48 AM, 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Gus owners,
>
> When doing a trial run of my RD/shifter cable from the BB cable guide to 
> chain stay housing stop, it contacts underside of the kickstand bracket. 
> Not proper in my mind.
>
> If you have same situation, how are you going to correct it, or just leave 
> it? What say you?
>
> Scott
>
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> .
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>

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Re: [RBW] cassette advice?

2022-12-29 Thread Hunter Harr
I am a big fan of what you are trying to do. It works great when it is 
mainly flat like you describe. Not finding the right gears when the winds 
start dragging you is just that a drag.

I have Joe running 48/34 x 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-27 (10 Speed) on 700 
x 38, and it works great, indexed bar-ends, straight no-ramp Sugino 
Chainrings to Miche sprockets with a SRAM chain. 34 to 109 gear inches

I have Sam running 48/34 x 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28 (10 Speed) on 700 
x 35, it works great as well, but I never use the 11, indexed bar-ends, 
straight no-ramp TA chainrings with Smimano Ultegra sprockets with a SRAM 
chain. 33 to 118 gear inches.

Had a Handsome Devil running 42 x 12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28-32 (10 Speed) 
on 700 x 35, which also worked well, but there were times I almost wished 
for finer gearing, but the simplicity of the 1x always won out, indexed 
down-tube shifter, straight no-ramp SAKAE chainring with SRAM sprockets and 
SRAM chain. 35 to 95 gear inches.

All running 5700 series 105 SS rear derailers. All running drops.

About to switch the Joe to uprights and plan on using 13-29 Miche cassette.

And will switch the Sam to a 12-28 Miche when I can.

Will stick with 12-32 on a Pass Hunter I am going 1x with.

Actually have 9-Speed Miche listed on ebay, but 13-26 so tooo short for 
your needs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165828075872

BTW, live in Florida, Tampa Bay Area, so only "hill" I ride is the Courtney 
Campbell Causeway Bridge, so mid 30 gear inches works fine for me.

On Thursday, December 29, 2022 at 3:42:29 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> When I have a lot of gear choices, I like very close ratios on the middle 
> or cruising range, with much less-considered tailwind and downhill gears 
> and ditto climbing gears. On my sole derailleur bike* I use a 42/28 X 13-25 
> 10 speed and I'll probably one day swap the 28 for a 26 o 24, and the low 
> 25 t (13-20 corncob + 22 + 25) with a 26 or 27t.
>
> The current 42.28 X 13-25 gives me nice 1-t jumps between 95" and 50" in 
> the mainstream 42, and down to 33" in the 28 (29 1/2" diameter wheel). With 
> a 26t granny and a 26 t big cog the low would be 30"; with a 24/27 it would 
> be 26". I climb by low-cadence torqueing, so 26" and even 33" is far lower 
> than I need even in my old age for any hill I encounter in the terrain and 
> for the sort of riding I do. I do 99.9% of my riding in the 42 (low 50"); 
> terrain is either sandy flat (No-So) or rather steeply rolling with some 
> short and sharp and some long and gradual climbs (E-W).
>
> If I wanted to use a long cage instead of an 8-sp short cage rd and 11 or 
> 12 speeds, I could maintain the essential crusing range 6 or 7 1-t jumps 
> and increase the range to as much as 100" to 20".
>
> I've built nice-working 10-sp cassettes from a mix of 7, 8, and 9 sp 
> cogs + 1 or 2 Uniglides, but my 13-25 is built from Miche Shimano cogs, 
> outer + middle + inner, and these shift even better. Using an 11-sp chain 
> makes shifting the best I've ever used (as good as the Am Classic stock 
> 11-23 and 12-25 10s I used a decade ago) and only ceding first place to the 
> 7-sp Uniglide Sante drivetrain on my late 1989 Falcon.
>
>
> *Out of 4; the other 3: fixed gear gofast with 76/67" flip flop gears, ss 
> mountain bike -- 65" for flatland sand, and AM hub errand road bike: 
> 72/65/56".
>
> On Tue, Dec 27, 2022 at 12:18 PM Adam  wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone,
>>
>> Just to clarify, my goal is to add some additional steps within my 
>> existing range. I often find--especially longer rides with constant 
>> winds--that I don't have quite the gear that I'd like to sustain my pace.
>>
>> My plan is to just base things off my current setup and the gear 
>> calculator, just curious of there are other, not obvious considerations.
>>
>> THANKS
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 12:45:24 PM UTC-6 mike goldman wrote:
>>
>>> adam, 
>>>
>>> a triple is fine. i would use a cassette with an 11t first cog so you 
>>> will have some low end on those flats and downhills 
>>>
>>> mike in rhode island 
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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[RBW] Re: Help finding 26.0 Nitto Handlebar like their 25.4 b812...

2022-05-10 Thread Hunter Harr
Thanks,

A great contender and yes, very similar. The question is whether my Nitto 
F15 will work on it, afraid it might be clamping down on where it is 
transitioning from the stem. May have to just go with the b812 and shims, 
the F15 works perfect with that kind of "sleeved" Nitto.

I failed to mention the F15 and Sackville BarSack as part of the equation. 

On Monday, May 9, 2022 at 11:32:01 AM UTC-4 Patch T wrote:

> I didn't look up all of the measurements, but looks similar to the Crust 
> Juan Martin 
> <https://crustbikes.com/collections/handlebars/products/juan-martin-bar> bar 
> in 26.0
>
> On Sunday, May 8, 2022 at 4:19:32 PM UTC-4 Hunter Harr wrote:
>
>> Hey, any help would be great. 
>>
>> Looking to switch from Noodles on my Appaloosa to upright and had some 
>> Civia Aldrich bars back on a Hillborne a few years ago. The B812s look like 
>> the ticket, but would like to keep the 26.0 DirtDrop stem
>>
>> Know I could use a shim, would rather not if I can find these bars. Which 
>> I know I saw, but can not find anymore.
>>
>> Checked the usual suspects... Blue Lug, SimWorks, Alex's Cycles, 
>> jitensha, Retrogression...
>>
>> Who did I miss that may have it?
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Help finding 26.0 Nitto Handlebar like their 25.4 b812...

2022-05-08 Thread Hunter Harr
Hey, any help would be great. 

Looking to switch from Noodles on my Appaloosa to upright and had some 
Civia Aldrich bars back on a Hillborne a few years ago. The B812s look like 
the ticket, but would like to keep the 26.0 DirtDrop stem

Know I could use a shim, would rather not if I can find these bars. Which I 
know I saw, but can not find anymore.

Checked the usual suspects... Blue Lug, SimWorks, Alex's Cycles, jitensha, 
Retrogression...

Who did I miss that may have it?


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[RBW] Re: Ball Bearing size: MKS touring

2016-04-22 Thread Hunter Harr
Bill did very well. I just happen to have some apart on my bench. 5/32.

Hunter

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 11:44:35 AM UTC-4, M D Smith wrote:
>
> Hello All-
>
> Would someone happen to know off-hand, or care to measure, what size ball 
> bearings are used in MKS touring pedals?
>
> These are the ones (former Rivendell favorites) I'm curious about:
>
> http://www.jensonusa.com/MKS-Sylvan-Touring-Pedal
>
> I know that each race takes 11 balls, but I don't have access to them 
> right now.  I want to purchase the balls to repack this weekend.  I have 
> tried a search, but only came across conflicting info.  
>
> Thanks a bunch, bunch- Mike in Bklyn, NY
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

2016-02-26 Thread Hunter Harr
Over six feet tall, and proportioned tall in the body, so very tall 
sitting. I had no problem with that load, which was an outlier. Main use of 
that bike was grocery shopping. The rack would fit two standard reusable 
shopping bags perfectly. Now sitting, flop was a problem, see strap. But 
riding was easy, and the grips are a fair distance from rack and load.

Never even considered trying to stand a pedal on this thing. But must point 
out, FLORIDA, not much in the way of hills.


On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 6:57:37 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> But could you see forward?
>
> My daughter had a 24" wheel Townie 3i or somesuch, and it was a 
> surprisingly comfortable ride -- hard to stand and pedal, though.
>
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Hunter Harr <crazyd...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> Bike handled fine, but was not fast, but very relaxed.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 12:19:47 PM UTC-5, John Phillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,  I was looking at Google photos of bikes with porteur racks, and I 
>>> noticed that most bikes had un-Riv-like lower handlebars, placing the 
>>> handle bars closer to the rack and the load.
>>>
>>> On the Riv staff bike webpage, Sean & Jenny have their handle bars set 
>>> closer to their porteur racks as well.
>>>
>>> Does anyone on the list use a large basket and/or porteur rack, and how 
>>> do you like to set up your handlebars in relation to your front load?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>>
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>
>
>
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> **
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> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
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>
>
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[RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-15 Thread Hunter Harr
Pictures would help. But if I understand what I read right, Head broke off 
bolt so what is left in the frame is post and locknut, so should just punch 
out and get a replacement bolt and nut. The seat clamp part that is part of 
the frame on Rivs is not threaded, one size captures a nut then bolt come 
in from the other side. My bet is the stainless steel gauled and you were 
never actually tightening the seat post as much as you though, so maybe no 
undersized seat post or oversize seat tube, bad bolt and nut.

If bolt sheared off coming out, drilling and extractor are not going to do 
the job. If there is some of the head still there, not letting it pouch 
through, drill on the bolt with just oversize bit until you just kiss the 
frame, then it should pouch out.

Hunter

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