[RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[John P. in SF]

I have had good luck with the  75mm wide VO fenders. I have owned an 
appaloosa in the past with these fenders and 2.1 tires fit fine and if you 
are ok with trimming knobs and dimpling chainstays, 2.25 knobbies fit under 
the fenders as well. I currently have that same pair of fenders on my 59 
clem L with 2.25 knobbies and plenty of clearance. I have other bikes with 
Honjos (3), but I have found VO fenders to be just fine and much less 
expensive. 

I would be wary of any claims made by JH/RH for product, whether it be 
planing, noise suppression knobbies, or rain channeling fenders...

You can also use VO or honjo stays and mounting hardware on plastic fenders 
of any manufacture and they end up essentially as solid as an aluminum 
fender. My dirt camper has this setup. the stays are quite inexpensive 
compared to a full fender set.

Cheers.

On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 7:27:48 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello fellow RBW owners!
>
> Now that I've happily found narrower tires for my Appaloosa, I'm looking 
> at fenders. I have three other bikes with fenders, two of them have the 
> plastic SKS fenders that Riv sells (the older models) and one has a set of 
> Planet Bike, aluminum fenders. Personally, I'm a big fan of the aluminum 
> fenders over the plastic ones, they just feel more solid. The Planet Bike 
> fenders, however, leave a little to be desired. They use the same flimsy 
> struts found on the plastic versions which, combined with their heavier 
> weight, cause them to wiggle quite a bit more than the plastic fenders.
>
> This time around I went looking at some of the fenders made by Honjo, both 
> the SimWorks branded and the Rene Herse branded models. It looks like these 
> require more work to mount but may result in a more sturdy fixture to the 
> bike. I'm not terribly worried about my ability to mount them as I've got a 
> well equipped shop and have done metalwork before. I'm curious to learn 
> what folks on the list think of them, though. How easy or difficult did you 
> find them to install? Were you happy with how you installed them? How has 
> your experience been riding with them after some time? Also, RH claims 
> their Honjo fenders are designed differently than the standard Honjo 
> fenders, is there any merit to their claims? Do they actually do a better 
> job of channeling water than the non-RH versions? Worth the extra $30?
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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[RBW] Craigslist 54cm Hunqapillar, $2250, Sunnyvale CA

[John P. in SF]

Not mine...

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/d/sunnyvale-rivendell-hunqapillar/7671471793.html

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[RBW] Re: tube tear at valve stem base — any ideas why and how to fix?

[John P. in SF]

Hi.

If what is happening to you is what happened to me, your tire is rotating 
on the rim. 

This sometimes happened when I was using an undersized tube like Patrick M. 
mentioned, but it happened a lot to me when using modern tires on older 
rims, and less when using a tubeless compatible rim. Flats generally 
occurred when riding somewhere that involved heavy braking, and occurred on 
around three different bikes I have or have had. Like the one time I got a 
front flat at this spot 
.
  
I sometimes speculate that the rim heating up somehow aids with making the 
tire rotate, which then tears the stem, but that is just a guess.

Moving to a tubeless setup was the only cure I found.

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:54:21 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> Hi, I was inspired by Matthew's "Patch or Replace Tire" thread, but didn't 
> want to usurp it with my question/issue, so I'm starting a new one. 
>
> My tire went flat during a recent ride on my Hunq. Upon inspection I saw 
> that there was a tear near where the valve stem attaches to the inner tube. 
> No biggie. I replaced the tube with a spare, got back to riding, but within 
> 15 minutes, another flat. Same tear in the same location. I replaced the 
> tube with yet another spare. This was starting to feel weird. The same 
> thing happened within a few more miles, another tube gone. 
>
> I had no more spare tubes, but a buddy gave me one that is specced for 
> narrower tires. I managed to get back home without incident.
>
> The attached pic shows where the tear occurred in each instance.
>
> But three flats on a single ride! I replaced the tubes the way I always 
> do. Nothing dramatic about it. I used a pump to inflate two, and a C02 
> cartridge to inflate another. I snugged the valve nut like I always do, not 
> too tight, not too loose. I handled the valve stem carefully, no jerking or 
> bending it. The air pressure was about medium, not too high, not too low. 
>
> I used three different types of tubes, one a Schwalbe, another was a 
> no-name, and the other was a Teravail. I inspected the 50mm Schwalbe 
> Marathon tire carefully and found nothing of concern, no glass, screws, 
> metal, shards, etc. The Lesnik-built wheel itself had run fine for many, 
> many miles with no issues, no flats, nothing, and is in excellent 
> condition. I had been riding on smooth pavement when the flats occurred, 
> and there was nothing remarkable on the road.
>
> But suddenly, on that day, all inner tube hell broke loose. I'm stumped. I 
> don't know what to do differently so I've been thinking about the saying 
> (misattributed to Einstein): "Insanity is doing the same thing over and 
> over again and expecting different results."
>
> I'd be grateful for any ideas you might have or experiences you can share. 
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Jim
>
>
> [image: IMG_8384.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Exploration: Make your own pump peg

[John P. in SF]

I made a pump peg for one of my bikes out of an old spoke. The pump was a 
little short for the quick release trick, plus using the quick release 
trick can have the handle of the pump fill up with water in the rain. The 
pump never fell off, even while on rough fire roads.

Link to picture of the 
spoke: 
https://flickr.com/photos/boxdogbikes/8411567035/in/album-72157632624461687/

I also made a little pad to cushion the pump down at the dropout as I had a 
campy head on the pump. 


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[RBW] Re: front carrying options for 2022

[John P. in SF]

Hi Minh

First thing I would do is move the basket so that it rests against the 
tombstone of the rack. It looks from your picture that you have the basket 
an inch or two forward - this is problematic. Moving the basket to rest 
against the tombstone will minimize flex in your rack and also, in general, 
keeping the load in the basket close to the headtube helps to keep things 
stable. It may fix your problem overall.

The basket does not need to be rigidly attached to the rack. I have often 
employed a used up road tube to tie the basket to the rack - tie a square 
knot in one corner, wrap the tube around the rack and the basket with a 
fair amount of tension on the tube, and then another square knot on the 
other end. A simple knot will suffice for the end also if you tuck the end 
of the tube between the basket and the rack to keep the knot from being 
undone. This is reliable and repeatable. I can pick up my bikes by the 
basket when I do this. Old tubes make nice tie downs, in my experience.

Cheers, John P. in SF

OT - if someone in the SF bay area wants to part with a Clem L 59 frameset 
we may be able to strike a deal. plz reply off list.

On Tuesday, June 7, 2022 at 9:00:22 AM UTC-7 Minh wrote:

> hey all, i've been using my QB more now, and started to think about how i 
> carry things on the front of my bike.  i'm pretty settled on a rivy 
> shopsack+ wald137 basket + nitto mini front (with a safety strap!).  I know 
> this is a little perilous according to the stated specs, so would consider 
> other options.  
>
> I'm mostly happy with this, i do get a little bit of wobble or shimmy.  
>  But i also feel like this is how i've always done things so curious how 
> other people are carry things--particularly on front of teh bike.  For 
> example i see all these Fabio's Chest running around, is it better to carry 
> stuff off the bar?   Larger porter racks and bags?
>
> This bike is my high security storage only bike, so i'm not too worried 
> about leaving bags on the bike.   Would appreciate peoples thoughts, 
> opinions, philosophy on this!  
>

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[RBW] Re: SON Rear Light Brightness?

[John P. in SF]

Hi Sean

I have not used the SON rear light, but I have used the B copy of that 
light, the Toplight Line Small 
<https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/taillights.php>  (scroll down quite a 
ways and you will see it). It is a very bright light and being small it 
could be mounted in a variety of ways. The standlight is also bright and I 
would only expect the SON version to work better. The only drawback is no 
reflector.

I mounted one light vertically on the seat tube under the seat binder bolt, 
running the power wire along the brake cable in a clear neoprene tube, and 
grounded the light to one of the rack mount bolts on the seat stays. Simple 
and protected.

The other one I mounted vertically down at the fenderstay mount at the rear 
dropout on the non drive side, wiring in a similar fashion. Plenty bright 
both day and night, which I know because this one is on my girlfriend's 
bike and I see the light all the time.

All of my bikes (down to just four at the moment) have generator lights 
front and rear, which I find to be very convenient and trouble free.

Cheers.
John P in SF

>
>

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[RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[John P. in SF]

HI

I have had maybe 6 pairs of silvers over the years and not all of them 
slipped, used both as bar end and as dt shifters.  
 
I have solved some of my silver shifter slipping problems by placing a thin 
slice of beeswax in between all the various parts and reassembling. I have 
only had problems with right hand shifters slipping - not sure why, and I 
never thought of swapping the left to right or vice versa. The beeswax 
seems to work for a year or two and then needs refreshing. 

I have also used a metal outer washer from a different shifter instead of 
the plastic jobby, and on one stubbornly slipping shifter (gifted to the 
girlfriend, fool that I am) I swapped out the d-ring bold for a regular m5 
bolt so I could torque it down enough to stop the slippage. Then she took 
it to a shop for some maintenance and they took the m5 out and put in a 
d-ring bolt and the shifter started slipping again...she was not happy.

Not all silver shifters slip, but some do and it can be frustrating.

On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello RBWers,
>
> I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end 
> shifters. 
> There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this 
> out of the box.
> They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the 
> bigger to smaller
> sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make 
> much difference,
> even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to 
> persist. 
>
> It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does anyone 
> have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to add an 
> additional washer somewhere?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Johnny in Belgium
>

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[RBW] Advice on odor removal from B-17 please

[John P. in SF]

Apologies for cross-posting, to SFR members

I recently purchased a fine used Brooks B-17 saddle from a 'friend' and 
have been enjoying it.

However.

I found myself checking my personal glandular areas for odor when near my 
bike pile, thinking that perhaps I have eaten something or took a shirt or 
pair of boxers from the wrong pile that day. After a few confirming sniffs 
I looked elsewhere and easily found the offending source, my newly acquired 
B-17.

Any tips for odor removal from the newbies or anciennes? 

Thanks in advance, 

John P in SF, who thought he smelled a bargain and got more than he wanted.

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