[RBW] Re: Black hole of mixing Campagnolo and Shimano

2020-11-22 Thread 'Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
I recently did a Shimano/Campy blend on one of my personal bikes that I was 
selling to a friend on the condition that I could drop in a set of Centaur 
brifters onto a bike that had a 9-sp Dura Ace drivetrain and bar-end shift 
levers. Using a Shiftmate adapter, it turned out great, and he says that it 
shifts better than his other all-Campy bike.

There was, however, a moment of doubt when we first got everything hooked 
up and tried out the Centaur lever. Couldn't get more than 2 or 3 good cog 
jumps in a row before the shifting would start to fail to hit the mark. My 
friend had been super careful to source the proper model of the Shiftmate 
adapter, but the actual unit that he received had absolutely no markings to 
identify the model number. So, with two engineers standing there looking at 
a stalled-out experiment, I did what I was trained to do. I took off the 
Shiftmate, removed the little pulley, turned it around and put the pulley 
in backwards, reattached the Shiftmate unit, and .. it worked perfect!  
It seems that a single pulley can produce two complimentary factors on 
either side of neutral, like multiplying cable pull by 0.95 or 1.05, 
depending on how it is positioned in the greater Shiftmate housing. It's 
likely that this was an assembly error at the factory, but putting an 
identifying mark on the critical component would help the QC function.

So yeah, it all worked out great. But, if you have a problem, check that 
little pulley.

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH

On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 2:52:46 PM UTC-5 Damien wrote:

> Hey all, hoping to tap your collective knowledge on this topic. I have a 
> pretty standard Albatross-Riv-Shimano set up on my Sam (Deore RD, Tiagra 
> FD, 11-36 9 speed cassette with Sugino triple up front, Microshift 9 speed 
> bar end shifters) and am *exploring *the idea of converting to drop bars 
> and using 9 speed Campagnolo Centaur shifters (since I love the way these 
> look and feel), potentially using a JTek Shiftmate 3. 
>
> It sounds simple, but as with most things, I imagine it's not as simple as 
> it sounds. Before I start getting parts together for this mess, would love 
> to know if anyone feels strongly about this working well together, not 
> working well together, or if it's not worth the hassle and I just stick 
> with my Microshift bar ends on the drops. I figured that it would be nice 
> to keep the whole upright stem-handlebar-levers-shifters combo in tact if I 
> want to go back upright, and since I'm changing bar styles, why not 
> consider another option?
>
> Anyways, would love all of your thoughts on this, especially if you have 
> first-hand experience. Thank you all in advance!
>

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[RBW] Rear derailler hanger threading issues

2020-03-11 Thread 'Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
Wheels Manufacturing makes an insert for replacing stripped derailleur hanger 
threads. Called a “Dropout Saver” or “Derailleur Hanger Saver”, it is widely 
available, at about $22 for a pair. You drill out the damaged thread with a 
15/32” bit, slip the flanged and threaded insert into the hole from the back 
side, and attach the derailleur as normally done. Been around forever, works 
great. 

Cheers,
Tom Matchak 

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[RBW] Re: Patch makers

2019-11-20 Thread 'Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
I'll throw in another recommendation for Falls Creek Outfitters. I'd also 
like to recommend an illustrator if you need help creating the patch's 
original artwork which will employ the amazing capability of Walter's 
machinery. For the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail, my partner Marianne 
Borowski worked with illustrator Spencer Hawkes to create the artwork for 
the suite of logos, stickers and patch. Spencer, who is an avid cyclist, 
did a fantastic job in capturing the spirit of the project. He also handled 
the interface with Falls Creek, including a few design enhancements to the 
samples to make the final product perfect.

The XNHAT patch is here. 
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/34156114@N05/48111260057/in/dateposted-public/>

Find Spencer here. <http://www.spencerhawkes.com>
 
I hadn't paid much attention to patch construction before observing this 
project, and frankly I was kind of blown away by the level of detail that 
is available from modern (CNC, I presume) embroidery machines. Makes me 
want to go see one in operation.

Good luck with your upcoming project.

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH



On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 9:41:49 PM UTC-5, J Imler wrote:
>
> I’m interested in having some patches made for a worthy cause. Would 
> anyone recommend a maker I should consider? 

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud fender installation questions

2018-09-16 Thread &#x27;Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hi All,

Lots of useful information being traded here. I see that, when trying to 
squeeze out the last bit of clearance under the fork crown, there's no love 
for the traditional daruma bolt/nut. I'd like to suggest taking a look at 
the PlugNut fender mount, which lets you create a flush-mount, centered, 
female M5 boss in the bottom of the steerer tube. Simple to install, 
secure, and designed to be compatible with brakes and racks that use the 
crown's center-mount hole.

[image: PlugNut drilled for centermount brake or rack.jpg]


The hex head machine bolt and thin washer that are used to attach the 
fender together create the least protrusion into that precious gap between 
tire and fender, and you could probably thin out the bolt head if you're so 
inclined. And, as opposed to the large dimple typically created to work 
with the daruma's big ole hole cover, the PlugNut works with a small, 
shallow dimple, which also helps out in the clearance department.

The PlugNut is available now in the Velo Lumino web store. 
(www.velolumino.com) On the product page, you'll find links to an 
installation video, and to a cool clip of a destructive test showing how 
secure the PlugNut really is.

Thanks for taking a look.

Tom Matchak
Glen, NH

(Disclosure: I have a commercial interest in the PlugNut fender mount.)
On Saturday, September 8, 2018 at 9:54:06 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Thinking of putting Berthouds on the Rambouillet for winter riding. But 
> have a couple questions. Let me know what you think based on your Berthoud 
> experiences, please.:
>
> 1. It is a 650b converted Ram with 42mm tires. Should I use 650b fenders 
> or 700c since this is a 700c bike frame? I like tons of clearance, so if 
> the fenders are too far away from tires, that suits me fine.
>
> 2. How do I pinch these 50mm Berthoud stainless fenders to fit into the 
> chainstays near the chainstay bridge? I know you can cut or mold aluminum 
> fenders to do this, but these Bertys are thick stainless. Can they be made 
> to fit, or are these types un-bendable?
>
> 3. Maybe I should just go back to 700 x 32c for the Ram and a narrower 
> fender would fit better?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long(er) fender daruma bolts for basket/rack on Quickbeam

2018-08-10 Thread &#x27;Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
May I suggest that you consider the PlugNut fender mount, in stock now at 
the Velo Lumino  webstore <http://www.velolumino.com/tm-plugnut.html>. This 
little nugget creates a secure M5 threaded boss inside the steerer tube, 
which is flush with the underside of the fork crown. It comes with an M5 
bolt that is the length for mounting your fender, but you can obtain a 
longer M5 bolt at your local hardware store if you need to stack other 
stays (rack or basket) onto that anchor point. 

While the PlugNut was designed for maximizing tire-to-fender clearance in 
tight situations, adding a few mm of metal between fender and crown should 
be fine. In fact, you might be able to swap out the included thick leather 
washer and add your other stays without needing a longer bolt.

>From the Velo Lumino product page, you can download the PlugNut 
installation instructions, which define the steerer tube conditions that 
are required for a proper application. Please read this before you purchase 
the PlugNut.

Thanks for reading, and I'd be happy to answer any questions.

(Disclosure: I have a commercial interest in the PlugNut fender mount.)

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH  USA

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 7:03:08 PM UTC-4, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> I've got a gorgeous green Quickbeam sitting on the patio, recently arrived 
> from a fellow RBW member, ready to roll but for a basket and rack.
>
> Unfortunately there's just one eyelet front and rear, and mounting 
> anything to QR axles seems imprudent, if even possible.
>
> The fenders (Berthoud stainless) are currently in these 
> <https://www.benscycle.com/honjo-3-allen-key-mounting-daruma---5mm-stay---stainless/fender_part_honjo__707-203_707-203/product>
>  clever 
> daruma bolts, which are too short for the basket and rack stays (about 2mm 
> and 4mm wide, respectively). Longer daruma bolts seem like the most elegant 
> solution, but may not exist. Anyone know where to look? 
>
> If something like the SKS clips 
> <https://www.rivbike.com/collections/fenders/products/sks-secu-clips-pair-27009>
>  were 
> compatible with Berthoud stays, that might be even better. I considered 
> good ol' P-clamps but am concerned (paranoid?) about mounting loads where a 
> frame wasn't quite designed for it.
>
> Open to other suggestions, of course!
>

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[RBW] Introduction - Doug Shaker

2018-06-15 Thread &#x27;Tom Matchak' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hey Doug, good to see you back in action in the group. Did you ever install 
that new fork on your Saluki?

Tom Matchak 
Glen, NH

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[RBW] Mixte frame design question

2014-01-10 Thread Tom Matchak
Yet another way to deal with the alignment of the dropped top tube and the 
mid-stays. Reynand style mid-stay attachment, no kink, just to swoop.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/34156114@N05/11348445043/

That's a 60cm frame over 650B wheels. As others have pointed out, that's a 
pretty high hurdle to step over. Still better, however, than a big leg swing 
with a stiff hip.

Cheers,
Tom Matchak

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Re: [RBW] Albas & Thumbies setup

2013-12-28 Thread Tom Matchak
Joe,

Regarding the photo of the road lever/porter bar set up, it is just the camera 
angle that makes the brake lever travel space look cramped. The brake hoods 
slope down, much like MTB levers on a flat bar, so we are not viewing the plane 
in which the levers travel. I like a lot of modulation in my brake levers, and 
I have no problems with this set up.

I should mention also that I have used this set up with the Velo-Orange Porter 
bars. Those bars have a slightly different curvature, which I find to be a 
little bit more friendly to this kind of set up.

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH

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[RBW] Albas & Thumbies setup

2013-12-27 Thread Tom Matchak
When I made the switch from drop bars to Albas, I wanted to leave as much bar 
space as possible  available for hand positions. That meant using reverse brake 
levers and bar-end shifters mounted on Paul Thumbies located out on the curve.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/34156114@N05/5954025945/

In use, however, I found that I wanted to have my hands on the front curves 
while climbing or descending.  I have replaced the Albatross bars with 
porter-style handlebars, with road brake levers mounted out front. Once again, 
this leaves the most room for my hand positions.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/34156114@N05/9146262436/

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH

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Re: [RBW] Loving my Atlantis...let me count the ways

2013-10-16 Thread Tom Matchak
I have spent the past couple of seasons searching for an alternative to drop 
bars. I started with the classics (Albas and Moustache) but found these to be 
too wide or too convoluted. After lots of experimenting, I finally settled on 
classic Porteur bars, set up Moustache-style.

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/34156114@N05/9146262436/

I am using both the Grand Bois Elysees bar and the Velo Orange Porteur bar, 
both in the "flipped" orientation. I have the straight section angled down 
about 10 deg, and the brake hoods are sloped down to provide the lever 
location/sweep that feels natural for my hands. There are some very subtle 
differences between these bars, and I like the curve on the VO model just a tad 
more, but I am comfortable with either one.

Porteur-style bars like these typically are set up with reverse brake levers or 
MTB levers and some sort of a thumb shifter, all of which limits the available 
hand positions. But the two models mentioned here take normal road bike brake 
levers and bar-end shifters, leaving the bar's sweep available for a range of 
hand positions. I also find that the forward position of the brake levers feels 
more secure and comfortable on a downhill.

Cheers,
Tom Matchak
Glen, NH

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Re: [RBW] Betty Foy and Red Brooks

2013-05-11 Thread Tom Matchak
DIY saddle and bar wrap color matching made easy. Why be limited to the colors 
offered by the saddle makers?
http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/34156114@N05/8395437401/

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