[RBW] Nitto Struts
Hi Matt, they are massive aluminum's struts. Can be cut easily and sanded round. Gunnar -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Shifting a Rohloff from the stem
Hi Got The Berthoud after riding with The original and The Mittermeyer. The Berthoud is just wonderful in every aspect. It can easily be reamed to 26mm so it fits on a noodles shim. http://wolff234.tumblr.com/image/82979201493 Best regards Gunnar -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Paul brakes, redux - Motolite clearance?
No way, my sons and my wife's bikes got normal v brakes and it is a tight fit with fenders. I had the same problem like you, I went for Paul touring cantis, they are much stronger. Look at my Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/40626759@N06/ Best regards Gunnar -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Modifying a Mark's rack
Yes, i did. They were fixed to the rack and daruma, the rack could still move a bit because of the flat strut being flexy, so the fender broke. I drilled a hole in the strut right in front of the fork crown, bolted the fender to it and put some tape on the gap in the fender. I will put some hammered al fenders on that bike some time soon. Best regards Gunnar https://www.flickr.com/photos/40626759@N06/8324901861/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Gravel in New York State?
My starting point is Chatham, it has very nice little roads in all directions, including gravel roads into the woods. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.
The Jack Taylor should have a completely different geometry, more like French lowtrail than the typical British lightweights. Thinner seatstays are an option that makes the frame more comfortable and responsive, I made that choice for my Mercian. Add a thinner TT and you have a completely different bike, although they are both named 531. I can only compare between two 531 frames I used to have and my new 631 frame. The new one has stiffer cs and bb (custom long spearpoint lug) which is nice when going up a hill, but overall the new bike is more responsive and more comfortable, despite the slightly stiffer tubing, maybe because of the Jack Taylor style geo. Gunnar -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.
Tony - that other Mercian is not mine, just someone elses bike i like. The shifter for the Speedhub comes from Gilles Berthoud. I reamed it to 26mm so it fits the sleeve of the handlebars, guided the brake cable only in its liner through the grip, this way it still fits. Guess you saw these british lightweights with hub gear and hub dynamo, I like them a lot. The geometry is what the Taylor brothers did back in the time. The stem comes from the mid 80s when Bridgestone touring bikes where fitted with these. For my length I had to go to Specialized who let Nitto build these stems in 135mm, also in that time, they are hard to get by these days. Gunnar. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.
Dear Michael, just changed back to skinnier, softer tubing. The reason was a very irritating neck pain, it's gone now. Had a Roberts, quite similar to a HH, now I'm with a Mercian, standard 631 tubing. This bike is a bit stiffer in the BB than my old 531 frames, it fits my 220lb 6'4" very fine, although I'm still using it on gravel roads carry groceries home, pull my kids trailer. It has a mild lowtrail geo, also works fine for me. Please have a look Wolff234.tumblr.com You see, one can have the qualities from the past in a modern frame, combined with some modern achievements I'm very happy about 😊 Best regards Gunnar. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Low trail, lightest tubing bikes really all that?
Jim, it's a specialized branded Nitto. Angle is +20° Length is 135mm. The 120mm version is still available through Bens Cycles, the 135mm is hard to get, I'd really like to have a new one, willing to pay a good price. Gunnar -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Low trail, lightest tubing bikes really all that?
Michael, i'm 6'4" and heavy enough for my size, i had at least 6 bikes with normal tubing, most of them didn't fit me very well. Then i got a Roberts with all the important numbers similar to a 65 hh, also the oversized tubing, for the first time. It fits fine, I liked how stiff it felt when going up The hill, how well it carried my groceries and so on. But my neck started to ache, I looked for bigger tires, lowered the pressure - same as the Rivendell people seem to do. A stiff frame with soft tires feels funny, and my neck still hurt, so I ordered a new Custom, this time a Mercian, normal sized tubing, Reynolds 631 which is softer and more comfortable. I went for a low trail geo 73.5° 59mm which is about 40mm of trail. Low 80mm bb, 72° seat angle. TT is now 61.5 , stem is 132mm horizontal. I love my bike. I enjoy cycling on rough city paths, towpaths by the river, rough gravel roads in the forest. The bike feels stable and fast, down the mountain, in the storm, on icey roads with my Conti premium winter tires in 700 37 c. With a big load of groceries the bike feels a bit soft, it's not made for going off road with a heavy load but with the stuff I need for one day outside it's fine. The bb feels stiffer as with my old 531 frames, the cs are bigger, at least at the end of the bb and the custom bb lug stiffens everything up. I don't care about tire pressure any more, I pump them hard, drive for a month or two and when it gets too soft I pump it up again. Lowtrail geo is fine, at first I had to take care when turning around, but I fast got used to the more responsive geo and I don't want to miss it. Have a look at my bikes https://www.flickr.com/photos/40626759@N06/ the Mercian now has a Speedhub but could also be used with other components, I really like it to be flexible and not being stuck to one system like you are with vertical dropouts. My neck is much better now, I come home because I'm exhausted and not because something aches, and the next day I go back on the road. The tubing of my Mercian is light, the ss is thinner, forkblades are thinner and you can feel the tt moving when touching it and pulling the bike around, it feels alive. Given my size and 225 pound some people would say it's impossible, a local frame builder completely refused to build for me but when I think back, my 80s Bridgestone was taller and longer, had a softer bb and in that time it was totally normal. So why shouldn't it work these days with better tubing, custom lugs etc. So have a nice time looking for a custom builder. I'm fine with Mercian and would always go back there. Best regards, Gunnar. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Brifters on a country bike
Get them, but before you order think of these http://www.retroshift.com/store/products/shifters/ Many people like them, they have a lot of advantages over brifters, and only one obvious disadvantage, they don't come back to the middle when you move your hand away from it. Happy riding, Gunnar. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Thoughts on ordering Carradice bag from europe...
you may have a look on carradice.co.uk they sell the bags directly and they have a list of the stockists in the US. Do the 110$ include shipping? Gunnar. On 21 Nov., 07:58, Rene Sterental wrote: > I have placed two orders with them with excellent outcome. I wouldn't > hesitate ordering from them again. > > René > > On 11/20/09, gerg wrote: > > > > > Hello, > > I am in the market for Carradice Camper saddle bag. I cant find one > > in any stores in S.F. I have noticed that i can order one from SJS > > Bikes in london for around $110. Has anyone had any experience with > > this company and/or purchasing from overseas? > > > Cheers > > gerg > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group at > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=. > > -- > Sent from my mobile device -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=.
[RBW] Re: Sloped Top Tube
to me it' s just a practical purpose i used to have one of those Bridgestones in 27'', tt was 62,5cm my actual frame http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/ has the same length but to me it's easier to carry the bike, i put the saddlenose over my shoulder and the tt under my arm. Carrying a bike in the cyclocross way is impractical in narrow stairhouses. I also love the proportions of a smaller HH, but a really large frame with a horizontal tt looks like a giraffe on rollerskaters. Sometimes i have to put my leg over the tt, big load, childseat etc thats also easier in this way, my next bike will be a mixte - with the same geometry. It has nothing to do with these mtb frames with their extreme long seatposts, a 250mm is absolute long enough and i really don't see the point why such a configuration should be less stable... Sometimes i fix my shoelaces or trouserclips while standing at a readlight - in these moments i love my sloping tt. Gunnar. On Nov 3, 4:33 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > My Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Road is the first frame I have owned with a > sloping top tube. > > What got me was how small frame looked when I unpacked it. As I built > it, the frame appeared to be expanding before my eyes. The Bruce > Gordon frame built up is significantly lighter and somewhat shorter > overall than my Trek 728 was yet heel clearance with the large Ortlieb > panniers is pretty close. > > I am not 100% with the aesthetics versus the Trek, but I am coming > around on the practicalities. > > On Nov 2, 4:53 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery > wrote: > > > A horizontal TT has long been part of the standard design. An > > upsloping TT allows the headtube to be higher relative to the saddle, > > which makes it easier to get the handlebar high enough. That's the Riv > > reasoning. I think a lot of other manufacturers do it for other > > reasons (style, weight, "stiffness", etc). > > > On Nov 2, 4:46 pm, Surf wrote: > > > > I notice that some of the Rivs have Sloped Top Tubes, many other bikes > > > toowhile others have horizontal. Does anyone know the reason why? > > > > Surf --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Mini Front rack with fork crown cable hanger?
Gernot, the thing about those recessed nuts is, they go into the back of the fork, so you need a 8mm in the back of the fork, if yours is only 6mm its no problem to drill it to 8mm. I had to cut off a lot of that bolt so i'm quite shure it should fit. When using the Sheldon nut that fender tab is behind the nut, so it's not in the bill. But if you don`t plan to put off the fenders on a regular base i'd use one of these http://www.velo-orange.com/hodabofcreye.html and a normal recessed brakenut (M6) it makes for a cleaner look and the fender sits higher so you have more space for the tire (or mud). But after all i really don't think that you should have any problems with a normal Brakehanger in that configuration, if the bow is to tight you could use a V-Brake noodle or NOKON Cable Housings. On a cyclocross bike with A-Headstem you have much less space between stem and cable hanger than on you bike, for example, have a look at Marks own bike http://adventurecorps.smugmug.com/Rough-Riders-Multi-Surface/Rough-Riding-with-Rivendells/9519734_SbvMC/1/639633898_y6WYd#639630171_QymhD-O-LB Gunnar. On Oct 28, 11:01 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > Hi, > > Has anyone mounted one with a (Tektro) fork crown cable hanger? > (Seehttp://tinyurl.com/ygv9v84for a photo of the hanger) > > I am putting together my new Hillborne, and am using a fork-mounted > cable hanger, at least for now. (I went with the larger frame size, > and actually like my bars relatively low (5 cm of stem showing), so > the cable run to a standard headset-mounted cable hanger is less than > ideal.) > > Here is my question: Is the bolt on the Mini Front rack long enough to > accommodate a 7mm thick "washer" (the cable hanger) as well as an SKS > fender mounting tab in the back on a Hillborne (standard Riv fork > crown)? Has anyone done this? (Mark at Rivendell suggested that it > should work with a recessed brake nut (or a Sheldon nut), but wasn't > sure.) > > Cheers, > > Gernot --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: WTB: 35mm Fenders For 700cc
so you just to buy new ones ? Here they are http://www.velo-orange.com/ho35fesmha.html or do you ask if someone has nice old ones... Gunnar. On Oct 28, 5:39 am, manueljohnacosta wrote: > These are actually for my younger brother who lives in Davis. He goes > to school there and needs some nice metal fenders for when it rains. > Anyone have any suggesstions? Thanks --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme Tire
just read a bit on the Schwalbe site, they just mention the duremo to close a gap in the marathon line, the new xrs are these http://www.schwalbe.com/gbl/en/startseite/?gesamt=438&flash=1&ID_Land=38&ID_Sprache=2&ID_Seite=126&PHPSESSID=eb0324b90db20f94e42b56515984f097 Marathon extreme and -plustour Gunnar On Oct 23, 3:16 pm, JoelMatthews wrote: > > They wore like iron, but weren't the wonderful ride. So, I > > don't get what's so wonderful to be about the Dureme to be. According > > to their chart, less speed, slightly more durable, heavier, more > > expensive. Don't get me wrong, Schwalbe makes A LOT of tires and lots > > of choices and that's great. I'm just not willing to sacrifice the > > ride characteristics for durability. At the price point, I'm not > > interested in dropping $150 to experiment. > > Depends on where you are riding and the purpose of the ride. > > First, I disagree with your assessment of the Supremes. I have them > on my Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Road and feel they ride well. > > If the Dureme is meant to replace the XR, it seems its design has two > purposes. Probably most buyers will be people who are looking to do > self supported tours on mixed surfaces in the first world or in the > developing world. When your bike is already laden with camping and > cooking gear, water, etc., etc., it is very nice to keep your spare > tire load to a minimum. Moreover, having to change tires multiple > times in a ride when you have to make 75 miles or not have a decent > source of h2o or a place to sleep can be quite a hazard. Some subset > of Dureme buyers will be riders in cities such as Detroit and New > Orleans which unfortunately have many streets that would not look out > of place on the Moon. I and several of my friends in Chicago have > ridden Kojaks for several years without flats. I imagine that would > not be the case in cities with less money to spend maintainng and > cleaning the streets. > > In my opinion, Schwalbe among its competitors does better mixing > durability and rideability. > > On Oct 22, 7:35 pm, Ken Yokanovich > wrote: > > > > > I road a set of Marathon Supremes in the 700x42 thinking that they > > would be bigger, rounder, and have that wonderful go-plump feel. I had > > hoped that they would have the ride characteristics of a larger > > Pasela. They wore like iron, but weren't the wonderful ride. So, I > > don't get what's so wonderful to be about the Dureme to be. According > > to their chart, less speed, slightly more durable, heavier, more > > expensive. Don't get me wrong, Schwalbe makes A LOT of tires and lots > > of choices and that's great. I'm just not willing to sacrifice the > > ride characteristics for durability. At the price point, I'm not > > interested in dropping $150 to experiment. > > > I LOVE my Jack Browns, I'm waiting for Jack's larger cousin in a large > > volume, light weight 622bsd by about 38 tire. It'd be the PERFECT tire > > IMHO for the Atlantis. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Paul Neo Retros
I have NeoRetros, but only the Rivendell style basket on the front,looked at some pictures though With lowriders and smaller panniers no problem, with really long, high mounted panniers they could interfer a little bit at least when being opened, or being taken of. Depends on your style of panniers, your wheel size, the mounting point etc. Gunnar. On Oct 23, 9:20 am, Andrew wrote: > Do front Paul Neo Retros interfere with front panniers? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: RBW sizing compared to De Rosa Neo Primato
On Oct 20, 10:32 pm, usuk2007 wrote: > To keep the relative sizing posts going I thought I'd put this one out > for consideration. I ride a 56cm Rambouillet and my stats are PBH=81cm > and Height = 5'10". What size De Rosa Neo Primato should I get? I'm > tending towards the 54cm c-c (56cm c-t) as the 74 deg seat angle will > put the top of the seat tube about 1cm above that of the Rambouillet. > The horizontal top tube means that the standover is 80cm ( a little > less than the Ram) and that the headtube is a couple of cm lower. much more important is the toptube length. That frame would be 1,5 cm shorter than yours http://www.derosa.co.nz/webapps/site/78221/147326/info/gallery-view-topnav.html?info_id=232852 so if you want to to ride it with your bars deeper under the saddlelevel than now it might fit, else you'd have to use a longer, upsloping stem. A longer stem changes the riding characteristique and an upsloping stem changes the optics. Another thing is the saddle position, do you really want your saddle in this position or will you be ending up pushing the saddle backwards, that would lengthen your seating position but would also affect that bikes handling and everything, what i want to say - a de rosa with a rider who wants to achieve a rivish fit makes no sense, it would be much better to go with the roadeo or any other moderat racing stile sportsbike. Gunnar --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Riv geometry and clipless
just wanted to add one thing, i happened to have pain in my legs because of too much friction between cleat and pedal with my old TIME pedals, cleaning and adding some teflon lube solved that problem. Another thing someone else already mentioned: Pain in your ankles often mean a too high saddle whereas pain in your knees mean a too low saddle. Gunnar. On Oct 21, 7:32 am, JL wrote: > Thanks everyone. All of your feedback has given me new places to > start looking for solutions. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Children of Atlantis
On Oct 13, 5:09 pm, Seth Vidal wrote: > On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 10:53 AM, Seth Vidal wrote: > > On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 10:45 AM, beth h wrote: > > >> On Oct 12, 8:15 pm, Anne Paulson wrote: > >>> The LHT is the poor man's Atlantis. Seriously-- it has Atlantis geometry. > >>> Since I think the Atlantis is the best bicycle ever made, I think people > >>> who > >>> can't afford an Atlantis should get a LHT. But the LHT is not the same as > >>> the Bombadil. > > >> I am seriously thinking about the LHT, but the one thing that stops me > >> cold is the 1 1/8" threadless fork. I just can't get past it. And it's > >> a shame because in just about every other way it really is a more > >> affordable version of the Atlantis -- the bike I always wanted but > >> could not buy. > > > Is there a nice way to get a threaded fork and headset on the LHT? > > Does it just require getting the right length fork and replacing the > > headset? > > nevermind - you'd need a 9/8th threaded headset which appear to not > exist from a few google searches. > > -sv there are many possibilities: Chris King offers 9/8 threaded headsets, even ones that fit into an 9/8 frame and accept an 1'' fork, you could also use any normal 1'' threaded headset with adaptor cups, (but i don't know where to get them) you might be able to buy a cheaper 9/8 headset NOS somewhere. It depends on which fork you happen to find, but i think life will be easier with an 1'' fork, chris king special solution or normal 1'' inch headset with adaptor cups... Tange makes a cheaper ahead adaptor headset, it's for ahead so you still need the upper part of a tange threaded headset, should be no problem for a good bicycle store. So regarding the price range of the bicycle you want, one might want to combine this Tange headset with the upper part from another Tange... Gunnar. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Yet another fender question...
Thats what i did http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3990816112/sizes/l/in/photostream/ i also put a backwheel fender on the front wheel, technically it's fine altough i like the hammered fenders better. Gunnar On Oct 2, 3:50 pm, Mike wrote: > So I'm thinking of putting metal fenders on my Hilsen. I have > Berthouds on my Rambouillet and really like them. With my Hilsen I'm > thinking of putting on some hammered Honjos (700x45). I won't be > attaching the front fender to a rack and I'm wondering if it will > vibrate a lot. Isn't this a problem with Honjos sometimes? It isn't an > issue with my Berthouds but I think that's because they are steel as > opposed to aluminum. > > I currently have SKS fenders with leather flaps on my Hilsen but they > just aren't long enough in the front. I should mention that a coworker > picked up an extra rear SKS fender, trimmed it and mounted on the > front. It seems to be working well for him. > > I live in Portland and fenders are essential. This isn't entirely > about bike fashion. > > --mike --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: TYRES?
My bike is somewhat similar to yours. My favourite tire for some years is the panaracer t-serv in 32. Its profile is a bit rounder than the paselas and is has a bit more profile. It's a tiny bit heavier than the pasela and has robuster sidewalls. Here are the tires with a 45mm mudguard http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3735721726/sizes/l/in/set-72157621689016220/ if thats too narrow for you go for 35. The Schwalbes are available with nearly no profile or with a kind of profile thats not suitable for fast road riding, the only real alternative in my eyes is the Vittoria Randonneur Cross Pro, its also fast on the road and has a kind of usable Profile for the winter and for trailriding. Gunnar. On Oct 6, 8:51 pm, Patrick in VT wrote: > congrats on your new ride. i saw a hillborne this week, and it's a > smart bike for sure! > > are you uncomfortable on the 32s? are you running an appropriate psi > for your weight? > > going from 32 to 33.3 isn't much of a change. and, in my opinion, > rider skill is more important than rubber on loose gravel/dirt/etc. > 32 is plenty big, unless you are uncomfortable and want a little more > cush. if that's the case, give the 35s a shot. > > also, a "heavy-duty" tire isn't necessary for dirt roads - in my > experience, the debris typically responsible for punctures isn't found > "off-road." i ride what some consider fragile tires, but i've never > had a puncture or any sidewall issues after thousands of miles on the > dirt. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: expanded frame geo & sparse sizing
Interesting, but way to small for so many people, the talest of those frames is 585 mm long, like an Atlantis in 58, the SH is up to 620mm. I'm 6' 4'' and the SH would fit me with a somewhat upsloping 130mm stem, the BG - Impossible with a Rivish fit, bar on seat-height and so on. Gunnar. PS I still dislike Bridgestone for giving up the 27'' frames back in the eighties... On Sep 23, 10:21 pm, bfd wrote: > On Sep 23, 9:04 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > > > > > The Hillborne-type frame is not just the upsloping top tube. By choosing > > > a > > > specific angle of HT and ST, you can pretty effectively mimic larger frame > > > sizes without necessarily having to build a bigger frame. As you lengthen > > > the saddle and handlebar height for larger riders, they move in relation > > > to > > > one another to maintain the proportions. > > > Even if I had all morning (and well into the evening) I could not > > explain the why. However, what you are saying was made very clear to > > me when I set up my Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Road. > > > BG also uses the upsloping tube for this bike. My former touring bike > > was a Trek 728 (I miss that beauty - but it brought in a good return > > at a charity auction) with the long straight top tube and very long > > chain stays. So at first when I took the BG frame and fork out of the > > box, I thought no way would this bike fit me and provide ample heel > > clearance with panniers. Boy was I wrong. > > > Not only is the BG a perfect fit with more than ample heel clearance, > > I really think it could fit someone several inches taller than I with > > only a few adjustments. As much as I loved the Trek 728, the fact the > > BG is lighter, (and probably more durable) is a big plus for when I > > lug the thing on the train to the trails. > > Further, for those who are interested in a BG-design frameset, Bruce > is now taking orders for his new Taiwanese-made touring frameset > called the BLT or Basic Loaded Touring: > > http://bgcycles.com/BasicLoadedTouring.html > > An excellent deal at $975, which includes Frame, Fork, Headset, Stem > and his 4130 Tubular Racks (made in California) Front and Rear (which > have a list price of $355 for the pair!) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: wald basket for noodle bars?
On Sep 21, 4:42 pm, david wrote: > i assume it is the medium basket that fits up there? cables though? > > i have centerpull brakes (basic riv-build bleriot) so i guess mark's > rack is the choice? yes, it's the medium size, the large one fits just into a 48 cm noodle. yes, it's the mark's. cables go behind the basket - no problem. I have the basket for a while and i love it! http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3735721726/sizes/l/in/set-72157621689016220/ Gunnar. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Tire Recommendations
The Pasela in 37 is nicer than the other ones because it has a rounder profile, the smaller ones are high in the middle of the tread - a typical road touring tire. The t-serv is rounder, also in the smaller sizes, so if you can't / don't want to go to the Pasela in 37 the t-serv is a good alternative, it's different altough the tread in the middle looks the same as with the Pasela. Gunnar. On Sep 21, 3:07 pm, Benjamin Irey wrote: > You can get a Panaracer Pasela in both the sizes you're considering, > but I much prefer the 37. I ride it as my primary tire on my atlantis > on pavement, fire roads and even single track trail. It may not be > quite as fast on pavement, but it is comfy and can handle a lot of > dirt and rocks. (It's my favorite tire.) > > On Sep 21, 2009, at 6:48 AM, Ray wrote: > > > > > > > I am seeking recommendations for new Quickbeam tires that: > > > 1) Are 700x32 (I'd consider 35s) > > 2) Are highly puncture resistant > > 3) Optimum for 85% road rides, much of that on urban streets > > 4) Can handle safely 15% trail riding AND on 5-8% grades after I flip > > the rear wheel to use the 22 tooth free. > > > Does such a tire exist? If not, what comes closest? > > > Thank you all for reading and responses. > > > Ray --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Tire Recommendations
My favorite for this type of riding is the t-serv in 32. It has a bit more profile on the siedes as the Pasela, a bit tougher sidewalls and is not much heavier - compare them on the Panaracer page. AND it rides fine in curves on fast descents. A tire like this is hard to find somewhere else. Many have a rougher profile on the sides, they have a tendency to wander to the outside of the curve on the blocks of the profile - especially when you are going really fast. I remember such an effect from the Conti TopTouring. The fine profile especially helps with fine (snow-) mud over a hard ground. A tire without any profile is much less safe under such conditions. If you are shure to be driving in absolute dry climate - i'd opt for the marathon supreme. It's said to be like a narrower Big Apple which i like very much for its fast comfortable ride. To me the heavier and rougher Schwalbes would only be an option for heavy offroad touring. Driven fast in curves they are no fun. Gunnar. On Sep 21, 5:02 pm, Dave Craig wrote: > Hi, Ray: > > I remembered that you are or were planning a tour with your QB. Are > these tires for that? > > If so, I'll add my vote for Schwalbe XR's or Supremes. I've had good > experiences with both. The edge goes to the XR's for loose stuff (I > actually use it as an MTB tire on my Bombadil) and the Supremes for > general touring with mostly road. I don't really like the XR's for > fast cornering on streets due to the profile, but they are great for > touring speeds and with any off-road environment. > > For general use, it is hard to beat the Pasela Tourguards. They are > relatively cheap and effective. My wife now has 3 full summers of > touring and many, many miles of recreational riding on 32's with NO > flats. I use 35's on my QB here in town and they work great. My > preference, at my weight (200 lb) goes to 35's for the best combo of > speed, ride quality and rim protection on our potholed roads and on my > dirt/asphalt loop rides. > > Are you still doing your QB tour? How did the new gearing work out? > > Dave > > On Sep 21, 5:48 am, Ray wrote: > > > > > I am seeking recommendations for new Quickbeam tires that: > > > 1) Are 700x32 (I'd consider 35s) > > 2) Are highly puncture resistant > > 3) Optimum for 85% road rides, much of that on urban streets > > 4) Can handle safely 15% trail riding AND on 5-8% grades after I flip > > the rear wheel to use the 22 tooth free. > > > Does such a tire exist? If not, what comes closest? > > > Thank you all for reading and responses. > > > Ray --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: I am an idiot; can I salvage my Nitto rack?
yes Gunnar. On Sep 20, 4:00 pm, Mojo wrote: > So you didn't cut off all the threads, just enough to use the > brakenut? That looks like an elegant solution > > On Sep 20, 6:48 am, gunnara wrote: > > > > > I did the opposite with mine, just cut it off, drilled the backside > > hole in the forkcrown to 8mm and fixed it with a M6 Brakenut. Just > > because i like it better this way, > > > Gunnar. > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3736259972/sizes/o/ > > > On Sep 20, 12:36 pm, Angus wrote: > > > > Difficult to say without seeing the thread damage. > > > > It is possible to buy a "thread die" and "die holder" (handle) once > > > you know the thread size and run the die over the threads to clean > > > them up. If done this several times on various items. > > > >http://www.burntlatke.com/jpg600/thread-die.jpg (first thread die > > > picture I found on google) > > > > If the threads are too damaged in one area to allow the nut to > > > tighten, you may be able to use a short stack of washers to move the > > > nut onto a section of threads that are less/undamaged. My front Nitto > > > rack has plenty of extra thread length. > > > > Hope this helps, good luck! > > > > Angus > > > > On Sep 20, 4:52 am, Mojo wrote: > > > > > So I have the front Nitto > > > > rackhttp://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks?a=1&page=4 > > > > and I have buggered the threads on the fork crown extension portion > > > > enough where it is no longer holding tight (probably unnecesary note > > > > to you: don't use those presta head round bolts as washers on this > > > > rack). Do you think there is someone locally that can retap these > > > > threads on this thin little post and make my rack useful again? Or is > > > > there another solution, or do I have to rebuy? I, and my front bag > > > > and fender, have all grown quite attached to this rack on my > > > > Allrounder- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: I am an idiot; can I salvage my Nitto rack?
I did the opposite with mine, just cut it off, drilled the backside hole in the forkcrown to 8mm and fixed it with a M6 Brakenut. Just because i like it better this way, Gunnar. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40626...@n06/3736259972/sizes/o/ On Sep 20, 12:36 pm, Angus wrote: > Difficult to say without seeing the thread damage. > > It is possible to buy a "thread die" and "die holder" (handle) once > you know the thread size and run the die over the threads to clean > them up. If done this several times on various items. > > http://www.burntlatke.com/jpg600/thread-die.jpg (first thread die > picture I found on google) > > If the threads are too damaged in one area to allow the nut to > tighten, you may be able to use a short stack of washers to move the > nut onto a section of threads that are less/undamaged. My front Nitto > rack has plenty of extra thread length. > > Hope this helps, good luck! > > Angus > > On Sep 20, 4:52 am, Mojo wrote: > > > > > So I have the front Nitto > > rackhttp://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks?a=1&page=4 > > and I have buggered the threads on the fork crown extension portion > > enough where it is no longer holding tight (probably unnecesary note > > to you: don't use those presta head round bolts as washers on this > > rack). Do you think there is someone locally that can retap these > > threads on this thin little post and make my rack useful again? Or is > > there another solution, or do I have to rebuy? I, and my front bag > > and fender, have all grown quite attached to this rack on my Allrounder --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Roadeo names, alternatives
A few years ago, a Rivendell custom seemed impossible expensive to me, now everything is different, the normal frames have become much more expensive and the custom prices are still reasonable. Somewhere else the entry prices might be lower, but with the lugs, the fancy paintwork, the extra care about geometry and everything they are fine. Anyway, for my dreambike i had to go custom, got my shifterbosses, track dropouts, sloping toptube and everything - not from Rivendell (but with many Rivendell parts and ideas), the things i wanted needed fillet brazing, but if i really wanted these beautiful lugs a higher toptube etc i'd just go custom, i even wouldn't have to live with a name i dont't really like. I'm 6'4'' and i'm really happy about having given i up completely to find a frame that fits me, has everything i want etc. A roadeo wouldn't fit me anyway... On Aug 31, 4:51 pm, Shaun Meehan wrote: > On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 3:28 PM, wrote: > > Just as a matter of curiosity, I'm fairly new to the Rivendell cult (green > > > Rambouillet), the name of the new bike (it who will not be named), seems to > > have caused some controversy. Like Grant said, you're not going to please > > everyone but has there ever been a similar controversy in naming a bike > > in the past? Not a biggie - just curious. > > Secondly, all this hoopla about building a sub 20 pound bike - I got my > > Rambouillet just under 20 pounds with Brooks, Nitto stuff, SPD pedals, but > > with stupid wheels (Grant's definition - not mine). So, how much lighter is > > this frame than the Rambouillet? > > Bill > > Louisville, Ky > > From what I've seen, whenever RBW introduces a new model there are a few who > voice their displeasure with the chosen name. And some who even go so far as > to say they won't buy the bike on account of the name (sometimes claiming > they'd otherwise buy one for sure). Seems bizarre to me but I guess the name > of the bike means a lot to some folks. I remember when the Saluki was > introduced there were a few who said that they'd never buy the bike because > it was a bad name, and they don't like dogs. Something like that anyway. > > I don't think I'd ever exclude a bike from consideration on account of what > it's called (within reason of course... at one point I half expected Ibis to > introduce the "FAW-Q" or something). I guess I kind of prefer names like the > ones RBW, Surly, and others use as opposed to the generic "RB-1" or the > like. But with the reaction to the names, one has to wonder if that wouldn't > be a safer way to go though. Boring but safer. > > Shaun Meehan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: standard (long) reach brake questions
Franklyn, look here http://ruedatropical.wordpress.com/2009/01/11/mafac-dia-compe-paul-centerpull-brake-specs/ all the competitions that were made should fit with a reach of 52, i'm not shure which version is being sold. Gunnar On Aug 25, 4:02 pm, franklyn wrote: > Gunnar, > > Do you know the brake reach of these Competition brakes? > > Franklyn > > On Aug 25, 4:55 am, gunnara wrote: > > > > > Franklyn, > > > how about > > thesehttp://cgi.ebay.com/Mafac-Competition-Brakes-NOS-Pair-Front-Rear-Brak... > > or racers in the small version? Availabilty for the shorter mafacs, > > that you need, is better as for the longer versions you need for 650b. > > > Gunnar. > > > On Aug 24, 8:46 pm, franklyn wrote: > > > > Michael, > > > > thanks for the advice, that's helpful. The paul racers reach range is > > > 57mm and larger, and her bike's front brake reach is 52mm, so the > > > racers won't work. I know for sure that there was one prototype Paul > > > made for Rivendell that had shorter reach (i have pictures from a > > > previous owner to prove it). If someone on this list happens to own > > > that and want to part with, i would be happy to pay good money for it. > > > > Franklyn > > > > On Aug 24, 11:25 am, MichaelH wrote: > > > > > Yes Franklyn, you make perfect sense to me. > > > > > Many of us have read GP's thoughts on placing the brake hole, and his > > > > belief that a lower hole extends brake clearance. For single pivot > > > > brakes this is completely true because the brake arms stay at or above > > > > the pivot/bolt. But dual pivot brakes, as you have discovered, slope > > > > down from the hole, and, if the hole is set low, as GP recommends, the > > > > brake will be below the fork crown, crowding fenders and tires. > > > > > My wife, Patricia, runs Pasella speedblends (32mm actual, 35 mm > > > > stated) under Esge fenders and Suntour Superbe single pivot brakes on > > > > a 1983 Specialized Sequoia. I have run both Campy Grand Sport Single > > > > pivot and Ultegra dual pivot on my Rambouillet with Honjo fenders. > > > > The Ultegra work but the Campy GS offer better clearance and do not > > > > contact the fenders. The Campy's are actually 59mm brakes so they give > > > > more than the standard 57mm. DP brakes have a lighter action than SP. > > > > > I know that many people have found single pivot hard to live with, but > > > > that has not been my experience. Centering SP. brakes requires a 13mm > > > > offset cone wrench, but once you have that it's pretty simple. The > > > > brakes don't come out of alignment, but like DP, they get knocked > > > > out. I carry the cone wrench with me for the Campy's but the Suntours > > > > stay aligned so well that I don't bother, unless the bike is likely to > > > > be stuffed into our car. > > > > > Bottom line, if you want to maximize brake reach, keep an eye on ebay > > > > for a set of late-mid '80s single pivot brakes and buy a 13 mm offset > > > > cone wrench from Park. Maybe some on this list has a pair they would > > > > part, but I don't. > > > > > Of course there's always the center pull option. If she has a > > > > birthday coming up maybe someone will spring for a set of Paul's for > > > > your wife! > > > > > peace; keep the rubber side down & the sunny side up, > > > > michael > > > > > On Aug 24, 12:53 pm, franklyn wrote: > > > > > > Hi, group, > > > > > > I just installed a set of tektro R538 "big mouth 57" brake calipers on > > > > > my wife's Ebisu which should take 700x28C tires with fenders. However, > > > > > because the bottom of the caliper arms stick out below the brake bolt > > > > > quite a bit to further limit the tire clearance. Currently the bike > > > > > has 700x28c pasela tg tires on (which actually measures 25.5mm on > > > > > Mavic Open pro rims) and I doubt I can even put 35mm fenders on! > > > > > > I know the benefit of these "big mouth" brakes is that it opens wide > > > > > enough for wide tires to come off without deflating, but are there > > > > > other long (47-57mm) long reach brakes that have caliper arms sticking > > > > > down less beyond the brake bolt? > > > > > > Does this make sense to anyone? > > > > > > thanks, > > > > > franklyn --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: standard (long) reach brake questions
Franklyn, how about these http://cgi.ebay.com/Mafac-Competition-Brakes-NOS-Pair-Front-Rear-Brakeset_W0QQitemZ380151450303QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5882cacabf&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116#ht_861wt_843 or racers in the small version? Availabilty for the shorter mafacs, that you need, is better as for the longer versions you need for 650b. Gunnar. On Aug 24, 8:46 pm, franklyn wrote: > Michael, > > thanks for the advice, that's helpful. The paul racers reach range is > 57mm and larger, and her bike's front brake reach is 52mm, so the > racers won't work. I know for sure that there was one prototype Paul > made for Rivendell that had shorter reach (i have pictures from a > previous owner to prove it). If someone on this list happens to own > that and want to part with, i would be happy to pay good money for it. > > Franklyn > > On Aug 24, 11:25 am, MichaelH wrote: > > > > > Yes Franklyn, you make perfect sense to me. > > > Many of us have read GP's thoughts on placing the brake hole, and his > > belief that a lower hole extends brake clearance. For single pivot > > brakes this is completely true because the brake arms stay at or above > > the pivot/bolt. But dual pivot brakes, as you have discovered, slope > > down from the hole, and, if the hole is set low, as GP recommends, the > > brake will be below the fork crown, crowding fenders and tires. > > > My wife, Patricia, runs Pasella speedblends (32mm actual, 35 mm > > stated) under Esge fenders and Suntour Superbe single pivot brakes on > > a 1983 Specialized Sequoia. I have run both Campy Grand Sport Single > > pivot and Ultegra dual pivot on my Rambouillet with Honjo fenders. > > The Ultegra work but the Campy GS offer better clearance and do not > > contact the fenders. The Campy's are actually 59mm brakes so they give > > more than the standard 57mm. DP brakes have a lighter action than SP. > > > I know that many people have found single pivot hard to live with, but > > that has not been my experience. Centering SP. brakes requires a 13mm > > offset cone wrench, but once you have that it's pretty simple. The > > brakes don't come out of alignment, but like DP, they get knocked > > out. I carry the cone wrench with me for the Campy's but the Suntours > > stay aligned so well that I don't bother, unless the bike is likely to > > be stuffed into our car. > > > Bottom line, if you want to maximize brake reach, keep an eye on ebay > > for a set of late-mid '80s single pivot brakes and buy a 13 mm offset > > cone wrench from Park. Maybe some on this list has a pair they would > > part, but I don't. > > > Of course there's always the center pull option. If she has a > > birthday coming up maybe someone will spring for a set of Paul's for > > your wife! > > > peace; keep the rubber side down & the sunny side up, > > michael > > > On Aug 24, 12:53 pm, franklyn wrote: > > > > Hi, group, > > > > I just installed a set of tektro R538 "big mouth 57" brake calipers on > > > my wife's Ebisu which should take 700x28C tires with fenders. However, > > > because the bottom of the caliper arms stick out below the brake bolt > > > quite a bit to further limit the tire clearance. Currently the bike > > > has 700x28c pasela tg tires on (which actually measures 25.5mm on > > > Mavic Open pro rims) and I doubt I can even put 35mm fenders on! > > > > I know the benefit of these "big mouth" brakes is that it opens wide > > > enough for wide tires to come off without deflating, but are there > > > other long (47-57mm) long reach brakes that have caliper arms sticking > > > down less beyond the brake bolt? > > > > Does this make sense to anyone? > > > > thanks, > > > franklyn --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: standover height
With a sloping top tube, like the Sam Hillborn's, all this is no problem. I know, many people don'like them, but a really high frame is also not that comfortable. And - a riserstem is even more ugly than a sloping top tube, at least in my eyes. Long distance riding on a good road is shurely no problem, even with a really high top tube, but walking a loaded bike over a curbstone, jumping off on uneven ground, on the lower side is easier with the lower TT. For people in the city and others without a garage, a bike with a lower TT is easier to handle whenn carrying it up and down the stairs. When you read the texts about choosing a frameheight, you sometimes think it's natures law that with seatlevel bars the toptube must be extremely high, but as you can see now also at Riv. the times ar a changin.. For me a 65 AHH with sloping top tube and horizontal dropouts would be the ideal bike. So many people like old sturmey archers, speedhubs and so on. Like to change the position of the wheel with changing tiresize.. There are so manny advantages with horizontal dropouts. And also: Manny people just seem to like them, many Riv. - Customs seem to have horizontal dropouts. On Aug 10, 2:27 am, JoelMatthews wrote: > > Personally, I worry very little about it. I seldom come off the bike in a > > manner which plants my weight on both feet, evenly distributed while > > straddling the bar. Honestly, I cannot remember doing so. If the bike is > > set up correctly, it's much more comfortable (and feels much more balanced > > to remain on the saddle up to and past the point of stopping forward motion. > > Same here. I put Big Apples on a bike that fit me fine with 28 mm > tires. The added height made it a little more difficult to swing my > leg onto the saddle I suppose, but I never felt unsafe. > > On Aug 9, 5:26 pm, CycloFiend wrote: > > > > > on 8/9/09 1:07 PM, Richard at rsv...@netzero.net wrote: > > > > After reading Michael's request for recommendations for his "right > > > frame size," and if I'm interpreting Rivendell's sizing chart > > > correctly (?), will Michael's pbh clearance above the top tube on a > > > 57cm Hilsen be about 7mm, with a 35mm Pasela? > > > Usually PBH is measured in bare feet, so he should get a boost from the > > height of his shoes. It's not precisely the same as Standover height. > > > > At what point, for road and/or country bikes, does pbh clearance > > > become a safety factor for the rider? > > > I think this is actually a reasonably imprecise issue that has a number of > > variables. It has come up on almost every list I've been on over the years, > > and I've yet to hear a specific number that really works for everyone, under > > all conditions. > > > According to the CPSC, Office of Compliance for Bicycles, 16 C.F.R. Part > > 1512 > > "...If a bicycle is sold less than fully assembled or > > adjusted, any advertising material and the outside > > of the shipping carton must include a list of tools > > necessary to assemble and adjust the bicycle and > > a drawing showing the minimum length of the > > leg of a rider for whom the bicycle is appropriate. > > That length must allow at least one inch between > > the top tube and the crotch of the rider when the > > rider¹s feet are on the ground." > > > I don't quote that to get into a discussion of the requirement, only to > > point out what requirements manufacturers have. > > > That being addressed, a lot has to do with how one rides, where one rides, > > how well balanced a rider is and how comfortable the rider is positioning a > > metal bar in proximity to one's more sensitive bits. > > > Personally, I worry very little about it. I seldom come off the bike in a > > manner which plants my weight on both feet, evenly distributed while > > straddling the bar. Honestly, I cannot remember doing so. If the bike is > > set up correctly, it's much more comfortable (and feels much more balanced > > to remain on the saddle up to and past the point of stopping forward motion. > > > This may have to do with my basic build, which has legs a bit short for my > > height. I don't think I have a full inch on either the Quickbeam (58) or > > Hilsen (59). My non-Riv commute bike (fixed gear Dawes) is 0". > > > In practice, I don't ever notice it. > > > When I'm commuting, my non-down foot rarely leaves the pedal. At a light, I > > can usually just prop myself up with the tip of my toe on the foot-down side > > by shifting my hips slightly. > > > On trails, if I'm running out of steam on a steep incline, I'll start > > swinging a leg over and stepping down if I want to keep moving. If I just > > want to stop, I'll turn the bars slightly away from my down foot when I stop > > and normally can lean the bike over so I can stay in the saddle. > > > Now, if I were buying a frame to use as a fully loaded touring machine, I'd > > probably want a touch more clearance, as that would be about the only > > condition in which I might possibly want a
[RBW] Re: Right Frame Size?
The difference between the Hilsen in 57 and the former Saluki now Hilsen in 58 is the top tube length. The 650b bike is 1.5 cm longer. The 650b bike in 56 has the same top tube lenght as the 700c in 57. Now it´s interesting which proportions your body has and which riding-position you prefer, how long is your actual frame und how long is the stem? Do you want the bar on saddle height, higher or lower? On Aug 7, 4:04 pm, Michael wrote: > I am ordering an A. Homer Hilsen. My PBH is exactly 33 inches (83.8 > cm), I was informed that a 57 cm with 700 wheels would be better for > me than a 58 with 650s. Any opinions on my correct size frame? If > you do the math as on Riv site, my size frame is 58. Is a 59 cm way > too big? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: dahon gets into the riv-like bike market
they look nice and i would really like to have a bike in this style, but the frames are quite short, nothing you can compare to an AHH in 65..., On Aug 6, 7:36 pm, Rick wrote: > Anyone ridden one? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: marks rack / do you have an un-needed mounting bracket?
Hi just looked at my rackstruts, they are for brakebolt, one angled for the front, one for the back, may be they changed it in between but i know the under the forkkrown possibility only from VO. Why don't you try to hammer yor brakeboltstrut flat, should be possible or take the VO one for 3.75 but it must also be bent and drilled. On Jun 25, 2:42 am, rb wrote: > Hi - I am moving a "Mark's rack" from one bike to anotherI need > the flat bracket that goes from the rack to underneath the fork crown > (I have the bracket that goes to the brake bolt). I know it came with > that, I've installed 3 of these on various bikes, but I can't find one > of the flat brackets in any of my various bins... > > So I am hoping that there is someone out there who might have one > sitting around and would be willing to part with it > > I did make up an ugly one from some galvanized flat stock, but it's a > poke in the eye - would be nice to have the proper fitting. I can't > mount to the brake bolt on this bike because it's an undrilled fork / > canti posts, but no hole (an odd frame to be sure). > > many thanks --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
