[RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-31 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
All Cross-checks in all sizes come out of the box with 300 mm steerers. With a 
62 cm frame, there is nothing to cut off because the head tube is long enough 
to allow a stem and maybe an inch or two of spacers. The old Surly warranty 
stipulated that stem plus spacers shouldn't exceed 100 mm, but last year they 
changed that, and now they say there is no limit on steerer length. But this is 
important: with threaded steerers, the size of the frame determines how high 
you can get the bars. If you want high bars, get a big frame. This is the 
Rivendell way. This advice is completely worthless with threadless steerers 
like Surly uses, because all sizes can have the same handlebar height if you 
don't cut the steerer. So a 52 cm frame can theoretically fit exactly the same 
as a 58 cm frame if the stem length is long enough to make up the difference. 
Buying a Surly using the Riv sizing guideline apples-to-apples is quite likely 
to result in a bike that's on the too-big side. 

I will tell you that uncut steerers with a lot of spacers tend to get a lot of 
negative commentary. Our Surly floor bikes usually sport this feature, and 
everyday somebody asks me to justify it or comments that they don't like the 
look. Yet of the bikes that sell, only a small fraction come back to have the 
steerer shortened.

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[RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-31 Thread bobish
Jim, thanks for your most excellent info. To bike shops I'd say, leave the 
steerer uncut, place stem in midrange area with spacers above and below, and 
put up a sign saying the steerer will be cut/tailored to the buyer after 
purchase. If you don't want to do that for the carbon boys, I understand but we 
are talking tactical bikes here. Me thinks for any negative (uninformed) 
comments you may get, eventually, some people will sing the praises of the 
first shop that bothered to fit the bike to them, and they're now more 
comfortable than they've ever been. 

I can't describe the visceral (negative) reaction I have walking into a good 
shop, seeing a bunch of salsas and other interesting bikes I'd be interested 
in--but with their steerers all cut. They've basically handed me a fitting 
non-starter. Since I can do my own bike work, what I ask myself is, why should 
I buy the bike here when I can instead, look for a deal and get just want I 
want? I did buy a a salsa fargo at the lbs a while back. Yes, the steerer was 
cut. Yes, I regret doing so because it doesn't fit quite perfectly and I'd love 
to have a bit more height on the stem. Next time I'll be buying online or used.

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-28 Thread Garth
Yes , Top Tube Length is Very Important from my perspective !   Besides the 
height of the head tube, TT is near the top of my list for importance , 
along with chainstay length and front-center.  The length of the TT affects 
how one is centered in the bicycle. A short or long stem in an attempt to 
compensate just adds to the weirdness !  



On Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:44:51 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:


 Note however that **top tube does matter**!!  And that top tubes generally 
 grow longer as seat tubes rise -- something to take into account. My Herse 
 fit perfectly with the 60 cm st because the tt was only 57 cm (both c-c). 

 ** It matters because you generally want a particular kind of bar with a 
 given amount of sweepback, and you generally want this bar at a certain 
 level relative to the seatpost. Sure, I could ride a 65 cm tt with an 
 Albatross bar 8 above the saddle on a 6 cm stem, but that's not the 
 cockpit I want.

   
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[RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-27 Thread IanA
My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around 
$800.00.  He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me 
about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed.  I 
suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a 
little and get something he'd really enjoy.  Being a Rivendell owner 
(recent acquisition) and having followed this list and GP's writings for 
the last few years, I have certain ideas about bicycle fit.  Not being a 
crotch-worrier, I like to start with the largest straddle-able frame and 
work from there.  A fist-full of seat post, bars around saddle height etc. 
 Using this formula as a starting basis, I urged my friend to try a 62cm 
Crosscheck (a single speed).  He loved it.  The store was adamant that a 
58cm was he needed, with the saddle jacked up a good two fist-fulls and the 
bars well below the saddle height, because that's where the power is.  My 
friend test rode the 58, the 60 and then the 62cm and there was no way he 
was going back.  The steerer tubes on all sizes had been cut quite low, but 
on the 62cm, the set-up worked perfectly for my friend. The mechanic was 
not happy about this and I was the unwelcome expert-friend, even though 
they made the sale and my friend rode out the store on his new bike.  The 
one he wanted.

I suppose we all get locked into ideas and philosophies, but without my 
input (as right or wrong as it may be), they would have sized him by 
putting the saddle height above his hip bone and made the bars a few inches 
below saddle height.  This was their fitting method.  At the end of the 
day, my friend is delighted - he exceeded his budget by $175 and got a very 
pretty bicycle that has clearance for 700 x 45 with fenders. Even with my 
pretty LL there, I was jealous of his purchase.  The shop had never heard 
of Rivendell, which made me wonder just how small a corner of the bike 
world I must live in, hanging out here on the RBW list.


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Re: [RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-27 Thread Patrick Moore
Good on yer for sticking to your guns. A few years ago I scotched a sale at
a LBS when a clerk was trying to sell a 56 cm road frame to a 6'4 young
man (I, 5'10, was riding a 60 cm Herse at the time).

Note however that **top tube does matter**!!  And that top tubes generally
grow longer as seat tubes rise -- something to take into account. My Herse
fit perfectly with the 60 cm st because the tt was only 57 cm (both c-c).

** It matters because you generally want a particular kind of bar with a
given amount of sweepback, and you generally want this bar at a certain
level relative to the seatpost. Sure, I could ride a 65 cm tt with an
Albatross bar 8 above the saddle on a 6 cm stem, but that's not the
cockpit I want.

On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 3:02 AM, IanA attew...@gmail.com wrote:

 My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around
 $800.00.  He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me
 about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed.  I
 suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a
 little and get something he'd really enjoy.  Being a Rivendell owner
 (recent acquisition) and having followed this list and GP's writings for
 the last few years, I have certain ideas about bicycle fit.  Not being a
 crotch-worrier, I like to start with the largest straddle-able frame and
 work from there.  A fist-full of seat post, bars around saddle height etc.
  Using this formula as a starting basis, I urged my friend to try a 62cm
 Crosscheck (a single speed).  He loved it.  The store was adamant that a
 58cm was he needed, with the saddle jacked up a good two fist-fulls and the
 bars well below the saddle height, because that's where the power is.  My
 friend test rode the 58, the 60 and then the 62cm and there was no way he
 was going back.  The steerer tubes on all sizes had been cut quite low, but
 on the 62cm, the set-up worked perfectly for my friend. The mechanic was
 not happy about this and I was the unwelcome expert-friend, even though
 they made the sale and my friend rode out the store on his new bike.  The
 one he wanted.

 I suppose we all get locked into ideas and philosophies, but without my
 input (as right or wrong as it may be), they would have sized him by
 putting the saddle height above his hip bone and made the bars a few inches
 below saddle height.  This was their fitting method.  At the end of the
 day, my friend is delighted - he exceeded his budget by $175 and got a very
 pretty bicycle that has clearance for 700 x 45 with fenders. Even with my
 pretty LL there, I was jealous of his purchase.  The shop had never heard
 of Rivendell, which made me wonder just how small a corner of the bike
 world I must live in, hanging out here on the RBW list.


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Re: [RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-27 Thread Ron Mc
my favorite bike shop quote, yeah, we know a lot more about fit than they 
did back then

On Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:44:51 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Good on yer for sticking to your guns. A few years ago I scotched a sale 
 at a LBS when a clerk was trying to sell a 56 cm road frame to a 6'4 young 
 man (I, 5'10, was riding a 60 cm Herse at the time). 

 Note however that **top tube does matter**!!  And that top tubes generally 
 grow longer as seat tubes rise -- something to take into account. My Herse 
 fit perfectly with the 60 cm st because the tt was only 57 cm (both c-c). 

 ** It matters because you generally want a particular kind of bar with a 
 given amount of sweepback, and you generally want this bar at a certain 
 level relative to the seatpost. Sure, I could ride a 65 cm tt with an 
 Albatross bar 8 above the saddle on a 6 cm stem, but that's not the 
 cockpit I want.

 On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 3:02 AM, IanA atte...@gmail.com javascript:wrote:

 My friend was in the market for a new bicycle with a budget of around 
 $800.00.  He'd looked at various aluminum mountain bikes and talked to me 
 about it - he'd mentioned that he'd possibly like a single speed.  I 
 suggested he check out the Surly line of bikes and maybe push his budget a 
 little and get something he'd really enjoy.  Being a Rivendell owner 
 (recent acquisition) and having followed this list and GP's writings for 
 the last few years, I have certain ideas about bicycle fit.  Not being a 
 crotch-worrier, I like to start with the largest straddle-able frame and 
 work from there.  A fist-full of seat post, bars around saddle height etc. 
  Using this formula as a starting basis, I urged my friend to try a 62cm 
 Crosscheck (a single speed).  He loved it.  The store was adamant that a 
 58cm was he needed, with the saddle jacked up a good two fist-fulls and the 
 bars well below the saddle height, because that's where the power is.  My 
 friend test rode the 58, the 60 and then the 62cm and there was no way he 
 was going back.  The steerer tubes on all sizes had been cut quite low, but 
 on the 62cm, the set-up worked perfectly for my friend. The mechanic was 
 not happy about this and I was the unwelcome expert-friend, even though 
 they made the sale and my friend rode out the store on his new bike.  The 
 one he wanted.

 I suppose we all get locked into ideas and philosophies, but without my 
 input (as right or wrong as it may be), they would have sized him by 
 putting the saddle height above his hip bone and made the bars a few inches 
 below saddle height.  This was their fitting method.  At the end of the 
 day, my friend is delighted - he exceeded his budget by $175 and got a very 
 pretty bicycle that has clearance for 700 x 45 with fenders. Even with my 
 pretty LL there, I was jealous of his purchase.  The shop had never heard 
 of Rivendell, which made me wonder just how small a corner of the bike 
 world I must live in, hanging out here on the RBW list.


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