Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
I would add the length back with a second Quick Link and put the old RD back on. I've been through that whole process of using shorty derailers and trying to avoid certain gear combos, and it's fer the boids I tell ya. I'd rather shift whatever combo is available, and carry an extra link in a saddlebag to assuage my probably unnecessary concern for failed Quick Links. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
On 11/14/2016 12:43 PM, Jonathan Anderson wrote: Thanks all for the input. I'm using a double up front (stock Silver 38/24). Agree, if I could do it over, I would have left an additional link so it drooped in small, small, but was closer to 45deg. in big/big. It's not dramatically past 45, which is why I decided to defer to the wisdom of the crowd to determine if I could safely ride as is. Sounds like it should be ok, but a bit of additional slack would be optimal. I'll probably keep as is for a few more rides to better assess how often I find myself in this gear. Jon, for your chain splicing, did you attached with pin (pushing pin back in)? I'm considering just adding back in one of the links I removed, but worry it might actually be less safe due to weakened connection/possible chain break. Back in the day, this was the conventional and only way to remove and replace chains. It's still considered OK thru 9 speed chains for the most part, but once you get to 10 and beyond it's no longer recommended at all. For Shimano chains, back in 7 speed days they went to a replacement pin with a pointy nose, a bit like a metal suppository, and once you drove the in in you'd break off the tail. SRAM and others went to quick links. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
I just used two quick links about 5" apart. I was a little concerned, but
think it should be fine. I have been using 10 speed quick links for years
without an issue.
On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:43:29 PM UTC-5, Jonathan Anderson wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the input. I'm using a double up front (stock Silver
> 38/24). Agree, if I could do it over, I would have left an additional link
> so it drooped in small, small, but was closer to 45deg. in big/big. It's
> not dramatically past 45, which is why I decided to defer to the wisdom of
> the crowd to determine if I could safely ride as is. Sounds like it should
> be ok, but a bit of additional slack would be optimal. I'll probably keep
> as is for a few more rides to better assess how often I find myself in this
> gear.
>
> Jon, for your chain splicing, did you attached with pin (pushing pin back
> in)? I'm considering just adding back in one of the links I removed, but
> worry it might actually be less safe due to weakened connection/possible
> chain break.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:33:18 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Your rd obviously doesn't have the takeup required for the range
>> involved. That said, do you use the small/small? You don't say if your
>> crankset is a triple, but I assume it is. If it is, you don't use the small
>> small; you use the small ring onlly with the 3 or 4 largest cogs, where,
>> very likely, the derailleur will tension the chain adequately.
>>
>> In the event, I've perversely installed short cage (and 8 speed, at that)
>> road derailleurs on mountain bikes, and simply let the chain dangle in the
>> granny + 2-4 smallest rings. I never used these combos, so any problem was
>> solely academic.
>>
>> Of course, you could always put the other rd back on ...
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 14, 2016 at 7:45 AM, Jonathan Anderson
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had
>>> little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering amounted to
>>> installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB.
>>> Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed
>>> that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking
>>> big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still
>>> droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy.
>>>
>>> But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to
>>> big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but it was a
>>> small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it
>>> vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following?
>>> Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I
>>> believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to
>>> the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the
>>> chain (photo below).
>>>
>>> Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated
>>> for 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I
>>> should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride
>>> small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can
>>> get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a
>>> chain long enough to fit the clem stays
>>>
>>> Appreciate your thoughts.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten
>> *
>> ***
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
>> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>>
>> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>>
>>
>>
--
You received this message becaus
Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
Thanks all for the input. I'm using a double up front (stock Silver
38/24). Agree, if I could do it over, I would have left an additional link
so it drooped in small, small, but was closer to 45deg. in big/big. It's
not dramatically past 45, which is why I decided to defer to the wisdom of
the crowd to determine if I could safely ride as is. Sounds like it should
be ok, but a bit of additional slack would be optimal. I'll probably keep
as is for a few more rides to better assess how often I find myself in this
gear.
Jon, for your chain splicing, did you attached with pin (pushing pin back
in)? I'm considering just adding back in one of the links I removed, but
worry it might actually be less safe due to weakened connection/possible
chain break.
Thanks again.
On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:33:18 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Your rd obviously doesn't have the takeup required for the range involved.
> That said, do you use the small/small? You don't say if your crankset is a
> triple, but I assume it is. If it is, you don't use the small small; you
> use the small ring onlly with the 3 or 4 largest cogs, where, very likely,
> the derailleur will tension the chain adequately.
>
> In the event, I've perversely installed short cage (and 8 speed, at that)
> road derailleurs on mountain bikes, and simply let the chain dangle in the
> granny + 2-4 smallest rings. I never used these combos, so any problem was
> solely academic.
>
> Of course, you could always put the other rd back on ...
>
> On Mon, Nov 14, 2016 at 7:45 AM, Jonathan Anderson > wrote:
>
>> Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had
>> little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering amounted to
>> installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB.
>> Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed
>> that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking
>> big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still
>> droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy.
>>
>> But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to
>> big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but it was a
>> small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it
>> vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following?
>> Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I
>> believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to
>> the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the
>> chain (photo below).
>>
>> Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated
>> for 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I
>> should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride
>> small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can
>> get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a
>> chain long enough to fit the clem stays
>>
>> Appreciate your thoughts.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
>> .
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>
--
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For more options
Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
Your rd obviously doesn't have the takeup required for the range involved.
That said, do you use the small/small? You don't say if your crankset is a
triple, but I assume it is. If it is, you don't use the small small; you
use the small ring onlly with the 3 or 4 largest cogs, where, very likely,
the derailleur will tension the chain adequately.
In the event, I've perversely installed short cage (and 8 speed, at that)
road derailleurs on mountain bikes, and simply let the chain dangle in the
granny + 2-4 smallest rings. I never used these combos, so any problem was
solely academic.
Of course, you could always put the other rd back on ...
On Mon, Nov 14, 2016 at 7:45 AM, Jonathan Anderson
wrote:
> Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had
> little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering amounted to
> installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB.
> Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed
> that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking
> big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still
> droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy.
>
> But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to
> big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but it was a
> small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it
> vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following?
> Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I
> believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to
> the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the
> chain (photo below).
>
> Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated for
> 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I
> should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride
> small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can
> get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a
> chain long enough to fit the clem stays
>
> Appreciate your thoughts.
>
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
--
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten
**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
--
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Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
What makes this "not all right"? Presuming derailer shifts smoothly in and
out of largest cog, what exactly is problematic about a derailer stretched
to this angle?
As long as the chain has a little bit of slack in big-big and shifts
without problem it's only an aesthetic, not mechanical, issue.
On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 9:57:50 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 11/14/2016 09:45 AM, Jonathan Anderson wrote:
>
> Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had
> little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering amounted to
> installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB.
> Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed
> that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking
> big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still
> droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy.
>
> But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to
> big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but it was a
> small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it
> vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following?
> Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I
> believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to
> the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the
> chain (photo below).
>
> Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated for
> 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I
> should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride
> small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can
> get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a
> chain long enough to fit the clem stays
>
>
> Well, what is shown in that photograph is definitely not all right. The
> chain is too short. Where you get a longer chain is you buy two, remove
> links from the donor and add them to the chain you will use (obviously
> saving the links for future such transplants). If you're having trouble
> with chain wrap you may want to consider one of the new clutch type Dynasys
> MTB derailleurs. You cna make them compatible with your road shifters with
> a Wolftooth TanPan. And avoid the big/big and small/small combinations.
>
> Appreciate your thoughts.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
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[RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
Yeah installing a short cage rear der just for the sake of tinkering was probably not necessary. You need to set chain length for big-big and just not use the gears that droop. Given the current situation I'd probably just recommend that you never use big-big and see if you can live with it. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito Ca -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
On 11/14/2016 09:45 AM, Jonathan Anderson wrote:
Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I
had little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering
amounted to installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an
old MTB. Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the
chain, I noticed that I had considerable slack ('droop') in
small/small. **Without checking big/big, I promptly removed a link and
reattached the KMC quick link. Still droopy. Removed another link.
Passable. Happy.
But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting
to big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but
it was a small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple
to get over it vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the
back... Following? Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check
when I returned. I believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced,
but audible is due to the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding
additional tension to the chain (photo below).
Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated
for 33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In
retrospect, I should have left one additional link on the chain as I
never ride small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is
whether I can get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea
where to find a chain long enough to fit the clem stays
Well, what is shown in that photograph is definitely not all right. The
chain is too short. Where you get a longer chain is you buy two, remove
links from the donor and add them to the chain you will use (obviously
saving the links for future such transplants). If you're having
trouble with chain wrap you may want to consider one of the new clutch
type Dynasys MTB derailleurs. You cna make them compatible with your
road shifters with a Wolftooth TanPan. And avoid the big/big and
small/small combinations.
Appreciate your thoughts.
--
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[RBW] Clem RD Chain Tension
Hi there, my wife and four month old son were away this weekend so I had
little choice but to tinker with the Clem. This tinkering amounted to
installing an old RD that I had in my parts bucket from an old MTB.
Straightforward enough, right? Sort of. Upon rerouting the chain, I noticed
that I had considerable slack ('droop') in small/small. **Without checking
big/big, I promptly removed a link and reattached the KMC quick link. Still
droopy. Removed another link. Passable. Happy.
But on my ride yesterday afternoon I noticed some noise when shifting to
big/big to get up a small hill. 'Cross-chaining.' I know, but it was a
small hill and it's more practical to shift 'down' a couple to get over it
vs. having to shift down in the front and up in the back... Following?
Anyway, I heard the noise and made a note to check when I returned. I
believe the sound, which is not overly pronounced, but audible is due to
the RD being pulled pretty far out and adding additional tension to the
chain (photo below).
Q (finally...), is this too much tension? It's a GS RD, so it's rated for
33T capacity vs. the 37 on the Clem. Should be fine? In retrospect, I
should have left one additional link on the chain as I never ride
small/small. But I didn't think that far ahead. Question is whether I can
get away with it the way it is. If not, I have no idea where to find a
chain long enough to fit the clem stays
Appreciate your thoughts.
--
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