Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-19 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 11:36 -0700, JLa wrote:
> 
> By the way, is it possible to convert Dia Compe bar end shifters to
> down tube shifters?
> 

The Dia Compe "bar end shifter" is in fact the shifter Sun Tour sold as
the Sprint downtube lever mounted on Shimano pattern bar end shifter
pods.  However, if you are doubtful you can still get some of the
original Sun Tour Sprint downtube levers.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-19 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 11:46 -0700, JLa wrote:
> I read from Paul's web site that the Thumbies have 26mm clamp size and
> fit standard stem-clamp sleeves. But in the picture at rivbike.com
> they are mounted on Nitto bars that should be 24mm diameter:
> 
> http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full//0701/17-124a.jpg

They're not mounted on the sleeved area, but rather to the outside of
it.


> 
> Is it possible to fit them to Nitto Noodle bars like that? I'd like to
> save the clamp area for my bell and speedometer.

Those are Nitto Noodle bars in the photo.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:39 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:17 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
>>
>> An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.
>>
>> I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
>> awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
>> kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
>> is something to aesthetics. :)
>>
>
>
> So what do you like?  I found 2 sources for 13-34, and I found 13-30 on
> ebay in the first 5 pages of google shopping search results.  I don't
> pay attention to the other combinations, because I don't use them
>

13-30 works for me. 13-34 is also fine. I was thinking of things less
fly-by-night than ebay but you're right - I could fetch them up from
there.

thanks
-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:17 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
> 
> An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.
> 
> I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
> awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
> kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
> is something to aesthetics. :)
> 


So what do you like?  I found 2 sources for 13-34, and I found 13-30 on
ebay in the first 5 pages of google shopping search results.  I don't
pay attention to the other combinations, because I don't use them


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd ³Silver Shifters²

2010-08-18 Thread Bruce
My Ram came stock with Ultegra 9 speed (12 - 27) and bar ends and as JIm notes, 
I just have only to use a light touch to get them to shift. After over 6,000 
miles it's all still working very well. (chain was replaced but the rest is 
original.) 







From: CycloFiend 


You can definitely use friction shifting with 9 speed setups. You'll learn
the discrete amount you need to shift and it will become second nature. 



  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:00 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
>>
>> okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:
>>
>> - where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?
>
> Depends what you're looking for.  I googled around just now and found a
> bunch of 11-whatevers and a 13-34.  When they first discontinued the
> HG70 in 13-30 a few months ago I found a source that had stock and
> bought a few.  The HG50s (black) are still widely available.
>
>

An 11-28 doesn't do much for me vs what I have in 8sp and 9sp.

I have an hg50 in black and it pains me to admit it but it looks
awful. It's like having 1 black anodized rim and one silver, it just
kinda stands out. Doesn't effect the ride at all, of course, but there
is something to aesthetics. :)

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 13:00 -0400, Seth Vidal wrote:
> 
> okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:
> 
> - where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?

Depends what you're looking for.  I googled around just now and found a
bunch of 11-whatevers and a 13-34.  When they first discontinued the
HG70 in 13-30 a few months ago I found a source that had stock and
bought a few.  The HG50s (black) are still widely available.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
> I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.
>
> Actually, I can't see the point of 8.  In the first place, the selection
> of available cassettes in 8 has dwindled to the point there isn't one
> I'd be interested in, other than the Harris custom cassettes.
>
> 7, by contrast, has a much wider selection of available useful
> cassettes, including a 14-32 (you'd be amazed how nice the gearing on a
> 650B bike is with a 39/53 crank and a 14-32) a 13-30 and a 13-34 for
> loaded touring.
>
> What's more, with a 135 hub a 7 speed with a spacer behind it lets you
> use all 7 sprockets on the big ring without angularity problems.  With
> an 8 speed cassette, you'd be limited to the outer 7 and would be unable
> to use the largest sprocket with the big ring.  That doesn't sound like
> such a big deal, but until you're able to do it you don't appreciate how
> handy it can be to avoid having to do a cross-over shift on a short
> moderate grade.
>

okay - so this may be my own ignorance and vanity but:

- where are you finding 7speed silver cassettes?

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 09:48 -0700, Brian Hanson wrote:
> I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back.  I found 9 too touchy
> with my Silvers.  8's easy. 
> 

I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.

Actually, I can't see the point of 8.  In the first place, the selection
of available cassettes in 8 has dwindled to the point there isn't one
I'd be interested in, other than the Harris custom cassettes.

7, by contrast, has a much wider selection of available useful
cassettes, including a 14-32 (you'd be amazed how nice the gearing on a
650B bike is with a 39/53 crank and a 14-32) a 13-30 and a 13-34 for
loaded touring.

What's more, with a 135 hub a 7 speed with a spacer behind it lets you
use all 7 sprockets on the big ring without angularity problems.  With
an 8 speed cassette, you'd be limited to the outer 7 and would be unable
to use the largest sprocket with the big ring.  That doesn't sound like
such a big deal, but until you're able to do it you don't appreciate how
handy it can be to avoid having to do a cross-over shift on a short
moderate grade.

And finally, 7 is -- in my experience, anyway -- much easier to
accurately shift with friction.  That's a good thing, because you won't
find any new indexed 7 speed shifters, although there are usually plenty
of used ones, especially downtube shifters, to be had fairly cheap on
ebay.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-18 Thread Brian Hanson
I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back.  I found 9 too touchy with
my Silvers.  8's easy.

Brian

On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:34 AM, William  wrote:

> I use 8-speed on all the Rivendells.  Silver shifters with an 8speed
> SRAM 11-32 cassette.  I use a normal rise rear derailleur, and I can
> absolutely shove it from the second-largest to the largest cog under
> load silently.  Shifting to a smaller cog is already lightly loaded,
> because I'm shifting to a smaller cog for a reason, so that shift is
> great, too.  I do sometimes undershift a hair and get some in between
> cog chain noise because the ramped modern cogsets want to shift, but
> that's just a trim excercise.
>
> Silver shifters are very cool and very smooth, and friction shifting
> is so very easy to maintain, but still, I'd advise Shimano index for
> anyone who might get frustrated with any of the technique aspects.  My
> Bombadil, with 8 speed index on Paul Thumbies is the best shifting
> bike I've ever ridden.  Absolutely flawless.
>
> So if you wanted to try any new parts, I'd put a +1 for possibly
> trying an 8-speed cogset, and a +1 for possibly trying Shimano barcon
> shifters.  Remember they have the friction option if you want to
> grouch-out retro-wise.
>
> On Aug 18, 8:17 am, JLa  wrote:
> > Thanks for all the replys.
> >
> > My bike is quite new and the shifting is fine other than the largest
> > cogs. If the problem was with derailleur hanger, would it affect all
> > the gears?
> >
> > If forgot to say that the cassette is 9 speed (11-34).
> >
> > Grant Petersen's advice on the Shifting page on rivbike.com sounds
> > good.
> >
> > I think I have two different problems. First, it’s really hard for me
> > to get exact shifts with the biggest cogs with “Silver Shifters” and
> > secondly I had wrong technique (or no technique at all) on upphills.
> >
> > I guess I need to go out and practice the shifting with the biggest
> > cogs and then try Grant Petersen's advice on uphills - to first pedal
> > hard for a stroke to get up a small bit of speed and the pedal lightly
> > and shift.
> >
> > Is there anyone else using the “Silver Shifters” with Shimano 9 speed
> > 11-34. I’m wondering if it’s really so that they don’t work together
> > well - or is it just about the technique?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd ³Silver Shifters²

2010-08-18 Thread CycloFiend
on 8/18/10 8:17 AM, JLa at juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:
> Is there anyone else using the ³Silver Shifters² with Shimano 9 speed
> 11-34. I¹m wondering if it¹s really so that they don¹t work together
> well - or is it just about the technique?

The main challanges with 9 speed gearing and friction shifting are that (1)
you don't have as much margin for error as fewer rear sprockets (8, 7, 6,
5...), and (2) _everything_ about the design of the sprockets is designed to
let the chain shift smoothly and quickly to a different sprocket.  (In the
olden days, you had to pretty significantly over-shift, then trim back -
now, you kind of "nudge" it into the next gear).

You can definitely use friction shifting with 9 speed setups. You'll learn
the discrete amount you need to shift and it will become second nature.  It
might also help to find what works for your riding style and hand position.
I find that for me, keeping my thumb and forefinger on the bars supplies a
reference - I shift up with my wrist and the little and ring finger and down
with the heel of my palm. Taking your hand completely off the bar to shift
is a little less specific.

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

³Velvet pillows, safari parks, sunglasses: people have become woolly mice.
They still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a
desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a
one-hour bicycle ride.²  - Tim Krabbe, "The Rider"

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Send In Your Photos! - Here's how: http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-08-17 at 16:11 -0700, reynoldslugs wrote:
> Steve: my post referred to my experience with 9 sp cassettes.  I do
> use Silvers on 7 speed freewheels (13-28) and 9 speed 12-27's, but
> I've never tried a wide range 7 speed (like your 13-30).

I asked because I couldn't make it work satisfactorily with an 8 speed
cassette, but found 7 speed's wider spacing to make all the difference.
The 8 that didn't work was an 11-28.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-08-17 at 14:22 -0700, reynoldslugs wrote:
> I have the same setup on several bikes, and had the same problem.
> Even after a successful shift, the chain skipped a lot when using the
> three biggest cogs on the rear cassette.  On my bikes that have the
> 11-34 or 12-34 rear cassette, I have switched over to Shimano indexed
> bar-end shifters, which have completely solved the problem.
> 
> I find that Silver shifters work fine on 12-27 cassettes, but for some
> reason don't like the larger cassettes.  I'd suggest you go with the
> indexed shimano bar end shifters.

You don't mention how many sprockets.  I'm using a 7 speed 13-30 with
the Sun Tour Sprints and shifting is just fine.  



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread nathan spindel
I like Grant's similar solution to this, found on the Shifting page on
rivbike.com:

"If you're grinding slowly up a hill and suddenly find that you need
to shift: 1. Point your bike across the road (traverse) to lessen the
slope. 2. Pedal hard for a stroke to get up a small bit of speed. 3.
Pedal lightly and shift. It requires a small amount of skill, but the
skill comes quickly and stays with you the rest of your life."

I find the traversing part makes it easier to keep momentum on a steep
hill while shifting.

-nathan

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 4:11 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Mon, 2010-08-16 at 20:37 -0700, Jim Cloud wrote:
>> When you're shifting while climbing you really need to anticipate a
>> shift and begin changing gears before the grade of the hill becomes
>> steeper.  If you're trying to shift with any substantial pressure on
>> the pedals there's too much tension on the chain to allow the
>> derailleur to move the chain up on the cogs.  If you've gotten into
>> the grade and cannot easily shift it's better to dismount and spin the
>> pedals as you lift the rear wheel and move the shifter lever to get
>> into a gear you can maintain on the grade.  Keep practicing, it will
>> become second nature to anticipate a gear change in advance of the
>> increasing grade of a hill.
>
> It's curious, but using the original SunTour Sprint downtube levers as
> bar end shifters, working 7 speed Hyperglide, I find rear shifting to be
> substantially more accurate and positive if I shift with pressure on the
> pedals than if I relieve the pressure entirely.  This is quite the
> opposite of what used to be the case back in the day of 5 and 6 speed
> "straight cut" freewheels, which often balked at downshifting under
> load.  No load results in an inaccurate shift with some noise, while
> shifting with a load results in a "KLUNK" and a perfectly accurate
> shift.
>
> But even back then, we learned a technique for finessing a shift on a
> hill, putting in extra effort to gain some momentum, then reducing the
> pressure and shifting "in the lull".  This became second nature, and
> many of us continue to do it even when shifting index shifters and
> Hyperglide.
>
> It's much better, in my opinion, to learn techniques like these than to
> drop into an unnecessarily low gear at the sight of a hill, as so many
> used to do back in the day.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-08-17 at 12:52 +0200, Juhani Laitela wrote:
> 
> Did you mean that for the steeper hills, before it gets steep I should
> figure out a gear that I can maintain the whole hill? So I actually
> wouldn't shift at all when riding uphill?
> 

That is a terrible policy.  Shifting on a hill isn't that difficult, and
you should learn how to do it.  You don't say what sort of equipment
you're using, but we managed it back in 1972 with truly crappy
equipment.  Back then there wasn't a rear derailleur in the world that
could hold a candle to your XT.  The best of the lot was worse than even
the cheapest derailleur you can buy today, and the stiff chains and
square cut sprockets positively resisted derailing the chain - and yet
we managed.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-08-17 at 10:30 -0700, William wrote:
> I think what he meant is the general comment that the more pressure
> you have on the pedals, the harder it is for your drivetrain to
> execute a shift.  

Not necessarily so in the case of Hyperglide, which was designed to be
able to shift under load, and does so fairly well.


> Selecting the right gear and sticking with it for
> the entire hill is one approach.  The single speeders here certainly
> know what that feels like.  Another approach that I use is that when
> you want to shift, pedal much harder to get some extra speed going.
> Then let way off on the pedal pressure long enough to execute your
> shift.  

That's what I described this morning, what we used to call "finessing a
shift" back in the day.  With straight cut sprockets it's the only
approach.

> I'm talking about something like two or three hard strokes and
> one light stroke to do your shift.  This is more necessary on the
> front than in the back, but its a good policy either way.

Yes, front shifting under load is a real challenge even with ramps and
pins.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread ANDREW LETTON
I wonder if perhaps your derailleur hanger is out of alignment?  You might have 
a shop check it.  It is surprising how easy it can be to bend the hanger when 
the bike falls over on that side.
I've had weird/poor shifting when my hanger was slightly bent.
HTH,
Andrew



> > On Aug 16, 11:27 am, Juhani Laitela  wrote:
> >> I’ve some difficulties with friction shifting with my Dia Compe bar
> >> end “Silver Shifters”.

[snip]

> >> I’d appreciate any help or guidance with my problem. Maybe I’m just
> >> too new to the shifters (around 500 miles), but I feel like I’m just
> >> not getting it :(
>
> >> J
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting with Dia Compe bar e nd “Silver Shifters”

2010-08-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2010-08-16 at 20:37 -0700, Jim Cloud wrote:
> When you're shifting while climbing you really need to anticipate a
> shift and begin changing gears before the grade of the hill becomes
> steeper.  If you're trying to shift with any substantial pressure on
> the pedals there's too much tension on the chain to allow the
> derailleur to move the chain up on the cogs.  If you've gotten into
> the grade and cannot easily shift it's better to dismount and spin the
> pedals as you lift the rear wheel and move the shifter lever to get
> into a gear you can maintain on the grade.  Keep practicing, it will
> become second nature to anticipate a gear change in advance of the
> increasing grade of a hill.

It's curious, but using the original SunTour Sprint downtube levers as
bar end shifters, working 7 speed Hyperglide, I find rear shifting to be
substantially more accurate and positive if I shift with pressure on the
pedals than if I relieve the pressure entirely.  This is quite the
opposite of what used to be the case back in the day of 5 and 6 speed
"straight cut" freewheels, which often balked at downshifting under
load.  No load results in an inaccurate shift with some noise, while
shifting with a load results in a "KLUNK" and a perfectly accurate
shift.

But even back then, we learned a technique for finessing a shift on a
hill, putting in extra effort to gain some momentum, then reducing the
pressure and shifting "in the lull".  This became second nature, and
many of us continue to do it even when shifting index shifters and
Hyperglide.

It's much better, in my opinion, to learn techniques like these than to
drop into an unnecessarily low gear at the sight of a hill, as so many
used to do back in the day.



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