[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-06 Thread Ron Mc
I find myself, too adjusting out chain noise on the FD from time to time, 
so this morning I ran a test.  Not sure if it was OCD or a desire to avoid 
obsessing over FD adjustment, but on a climb where I needed my 
next-to-largest cog, I dialed the FD to noise on the inside of the cage, 
then just dialed it out.  Made the rest of the ride using 8 gears down to 
the smallest 12t cog and back up without ever adjusting the FD.  

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-05 Thread Michael Hechmer
I can't help but wonder if the derailler wasn't a bit out of parallel? 
Michael

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 7:27:48 PM UTC-4, David Person wrote:
>
> Normally, when I set up a front derailleur I follow Shimano's 
> recommendation about having 1-2mm of clearance between the large chainring 
> and the derailleur cage.  This has always worked will for me, resulting in 
> crisp shifting.  Since building up my Sam Hillborne back in June I've been 
> running the CX-70 derailleur at this height but find I have to constantly 
> trim the derailleur to keep it from rubbing the chain.  At this setting I 
> can only get a few shifts on the rear before having to adjust the front. 
>  Quite annoying.  I primarily use the large chainring, doing most all the 
> shifting on the rear, so having to constantly trim the front was getting 
> old quickly.  Another issue was that there was little room for adjustment 
> between the inside of the cage rubbing and the outside of the cage rubbing. 
>  I notice that I didn't have the same problem when on the small chainring. 
>  Then I noticed that the front of the cage is a lot narrower than the back, 
> and when on the large chain ring the chain is positioned between the cage 
> near the front, while the chain ride between the cage more toward that 
> middle to rear when on the small chainring.  So that got me thinking that 
> perhaps raising the derailleur up a bit would give me more clearance 
> between the sides of the cage when in the large chainring, with affecting 
> the shifting too badly.  So today I raised the derailleur to that there is 
> 7mm of space between the large chainring and the cage.  I'm happy to report 
> that this has made a huge difference in my enjoyment of riding the bike.  I 
> can shift 5-6 cogs on the back before I have to touch the front shifter to 
> trim the derailleur.  And when I drop the front down to the small 
> chainring, with the chain on the rear cluster anywhere from the middle to 
> the largest cog, there is no need to readjust the front to keep the chain 
> from rubbing the cage.  Pure heaven.  And the shifting performance has not 
> suffered either.  Now granted, I don't ride this bike in a peloton of 
> riders, inches of the wheel in front of me, where every shift is critical, 
> but I've not noticed a decrease in the crispness of the front shifts.
>
> Thought I'd put this out there in the event anyone else was suffering with 
> the same issue.
>
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-05 Thread Garth


  I suspect the crank mold and or big ring is less than perfect on the 
vertical plane , few if any are .  Every crank is different .  So this can 
make for a small sweet spot in the big ring .

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
You point out correctly that the CX70 cage is narrow up top and wider down 
low.  The right question to ask is why?  The reason is front index shifters 
(brifters).  They click into position, and have a little trim mini-click. 
 The derailer has to be precise, because the shifter positions are limited. 
 For those of us that use friction shifters, it is a little annoying 
because of the amount of trimming we need to do.  With friction shifters we 
don't really need a narrow cage.  Pretty much any old road bike front 
derailer (from the early 1980s up to the beginning of brifters) has a nice 
wide cage, and will shift your compact double really well.  

For those of us stuck with a narrow cage front der wanting to make the best 
of it, you can gently splay the upper cage open with a little crescent 
wrench or similar.  Mechanics used to tune front derailer shape all the 
time as part of a build.  You can get yourself a bunch of extra room, and 
it's hard to ruin it completely.  

The other nice thing about classic older front derailers is that they are 
often really cheap, and they have a longer lever arm, so they need more 
cable pull.  That makes them less sensitive to your trim movements, so you 
feel like you have finer control.  

Nice wide cage triple front derailers, particularly ones with a good shape 
to follow our smallish chainrings and not hit the chainstays on our large 
BB drop bikes, are rare.  That's why Riv bought up literally hundreds of 
Campy front derailers when they had the chance, and why lots of us will 
never let ours go.  New, orderable front ders that fit ideally on 
Rivendells are few.  They (Riv) are always on the lookout, because it's a 
challenging piece.  They do their absolute best with whats available.  

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 4:27:48 PM UTC-7, David Person wrote:
>
> Normally, when I set up a front derailleur I follow Shimano's 
> recommendation about having 1-2mm of clearance between the large chainring 
> and the derailleur cage.  This has always worked will for me, resulting in 
> crisp shifting.  Since building up my Sam Hillborne back in June I've been 
> running the CX-70 derailleur at this height but find I have to constantly 
> trim the derailleur to keep it from rubbing the chain.  At this setting I 
> can only get a few shifts on the rear before having to adjust the front. 
>  Quite annoying.  I primarily use the large chainring, doing most all the 
> shifting on the rear, so having to constantly trim the front was getting 
> old quickly.  Another issue was that there was little room for adjustment 
> between the inside of the cage rubbing and the outside of the cage rubbing. 
>  I notice that I didn't have the same problem when on the small chainring. 
>  Then I noticed that the front of the cage is a lot narrower than the back, 
> and when on the large chain ring the chain is positioned between the cage 
> near the front, while the chain ride between the cage more toward that 
> middle to rear when on the small chainring.  So that got me thinking that 
> perhaps raising the derailleur up a bit would give me more clearance 
> between the sides of the cage when in the large chainring, with affecting 
> the shifting too badly.  So today I raised the derailleur to that there is 
> 7mm of space between the large chainring and the cage.  I'm happy to report 
> that this has made a huge difference in my enjoyment of riding the bike.  I 
> can shift 5-6 cogs on the back before I have to touch the front shifter to 
> trim the derailleur.  And when I drop the front down to the small 
> chainring, with the chain on the rear cluster anywhere from the middle to 
> the largest cog, there is no need to readjust the front to keep the chain 
> from rubbing the cage.  Pure heaven.  And the shifting performance has not 
> suffered either.  Now granted, I don't ride this bike in a peloton of 
> riders, inches of the wheel in front of me, where every shift is critical, 
> but I've not noticed a decrease in the crispness of the front shifts.
>
> Thought I'd put this out there in the event anyone else was suffering with 
> the same issue.
>
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-05 Thread Ron Mc
good point - I'm lucky on my XD triple-turned-compact crank - the big ring 
is flat, and it's the chain guard that is skewed.  

On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 7:37:22 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
>
>
>   I suspect the crank mold and or big ring is less than perfect on the 
> vertical plane , few if any are .  Every crank is different .  So this can 
> make for a small sweet spot in the big ring .
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-05 Thread David Person
Bill, your suggestion of splaying open the cage was the first thing I tried, 
but not wanting to damage the dérailleur, I didn't bent the cage too much.  I 
probably have gone further with it, but raising the dérailleur did the trick.  
Took the bike out for a longish ride this morning and no negative impact on the 
shifting.

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-04 Thread Ron Mc
Curious, I'm running a 9-speed and get all the way through them without 
adjusting my CX-70.  I use the penny - clearing a penny all the way around 
between the large ring and derailleur cage. .  

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 6:27:48 PM UTC-5, David Person wrote:
>
> Normally, when I set up a front derailleur I follow Shimano's 
> recommendation about having 1-2mm of clearance between the large chainring 
> and the derailleur cage.  This has always worked will for me, resulting in 
> crisp shifting.  Since building up my Sam Hillborne back in June I've been 
> running the CX-70 derailleur at this height but find I have to constantly 
> trim the derailleur to keep it from rubbing the chain.  At this setting I 
> can only get a few shifts on the rear before having to adjust the front. 
>  Quite annoying.  I primarily use the large chainring, doing most all the 
> shifting on the rear, so having to constantly trim the front was getting 
> old quickly.  Another issue was that there was little room for adjustment 
> between the inside of the cage rubbing and the outside of the cage rubbing. 
>  I notice that I didn't have the same problem when on the small chainring. 
>  Then I noticed that the front of the cage is a lot narrower than the back, 
> and when on the large chain ring the chain is positioned between the cage 
> near the front, while the chain ride between the cage more toward that 
> middle to rear when on the small chainring.  So that got me thinking that 
> perhaps raising the derailleur up a bit would give me more clearance 
> between the sides of the cage when in the large chainring, with affecting 
> the shifting too badly.  So today I raised the derailleur to that there is 
> 7mm of space between the large chainring and the cage.  I'm happy to report 
> that this has made a huge difference in my enjoyment of riding the bike.  I 
> can shift 5-6 cogs on the back before I have to touch the front shifter to 
> trim the derailleur.  And when I drop the front down to the small 
> chainring, with the chain on the rear cluster anywhere from the middle to 
> the largest cog, there is no need to readjust the front to keep the chain 
> from rubbing the cage.  Pure heaven.  And the shifting performance has not 
> suffered either.  Now granted, I don't ride this bike in a peloton of 
> riders, inches of the wheel in front of me, where every shift is critical, 
> but I've not noticed a decrease in the crispness of the front shifts.
>
> Thought I'd put this out there in the event anyone else was suffering with 
> the same issue.
>
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Setup

2015-09-04 Thread dougP
On my Atlantis with a 44 tooth big ring there is at least 1/4" between the 
outer cage and the top of the chainring teeth.  The Deore FD has minimal 
clearance with the lower stay.  It shifts fine with a 34 tooth middle 
ringe.  Like you, I used to obsess over that 1-2 mm clearance.  Doesn't 
seem to be too critical and I like being able to cover 6 or 7 cogs without 
touching the FD.  

dougP

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 4:27:48 PM UTC-7, David Person wrote:
>
> Normally, when I set up a front derailleur I follow Shimano's 
> recommendation about having 1-2mm of clearance between the large chainring 
> and the derailleur cage.  This has always worked will for me, resulting in 
> crisp shifting.  Since building up my Sam Hillborne back in June I've been 
> running the CX-70 derailleur at this height but find I have to constantly 
> trim the derailleur to keep it from rubbing the chain.  At this setting I 
> can only get a few shifts on the rear before having to adjust the front. 
>  Quite annoying.  I primarily use the large chainring, doing most all the 
> shifting on the rear, so having to constantly trim the front was getting 
> old quickly.  Another issue was that there was little room for adjustment 
> between the inside of the cage rubbing and the outside of the cage rubbing. 
>  I notice that I didn't have the same problem when on the small chainring. 
>  Then I noticed that the front of the cage is a lot narrower than the back, 
> and when on the large chain ring the chain is positioned between the cage 
> near the front, while the chain ride between the cage more toward that 
> middle to rear when on the small chainring.  So that got me thinking that 
> perhaps raising the derailleur up a bit would give me more clearance 
> between the sides of the cage when in the large chainring, with affecting 
> the shifting too badly.  So today I raised the derailleur to that there is 
> 7mm of space between the large chainring and the cage.  I'm happy to report 
> that this has made a huge difference in my enjoyment of riding the bike.  I 
> can shift 5-6 cogs on the back before I have to touch the front shifter to 
> trim the derailleur.  And when I drop the front down to the small 
> chainring, with the chain on the rear cluster anywhere from the middle to 
> the largest cog, there is no need to readjust the front to keep the chain 
> from rubbing the cage.  Pure heaven.  And the shifting performance has not 
> suffered either.  Now granted, I don't ride this bike in a peloton of 
> riders, inches of the wheel in front of me, where every shift is critical, 
> but I've not noticed a decrease in the crispness of the front shifts.
>
> Thought I'd put this out there in the event anyone else was suffering with 
> the same issue.
>
> David
>

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