[RBW] Re: Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub
Thanks for your replies. Frames are all spaced differently. I'm cold setting the road frames from 124/126 to 130mm so there shouldn't be an issue spreading them. But my question was for the hub and when mounting it to a mtb frame it seem like I can reduce the spacers with 2-3 mm on the drive side. As the mtb and road hubs only differs in terms of overall spacing this would lead to less dish. So if this works I should there for end up with a stronger rather than weaker wheel. At the very least I would keep the same amount of wheel dish. Had no idea they were Uniglide compatible too. Strange as I raced in the early 90's with such XTR group on a my Marin Team Issue, witch was later move to a Litespeed Obed before selling. Remember having to repack them and not only was the grease hard, there wasn't enough of it! But after that they stayed very smooth so no doubt will I do that when I remove the spacers. Found a nos 170 mm crankset and some 48-38-26 TA chainrings at bargain price in Paris after last PBP! Did some what reduce the pain of my DNF. On 7 Jan, 02:05, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com wrote: I have one of those hubs on a mountain bike. It is sweet! Nearly silent, for some reason. Anyway, I would not mess with it unless absolutely necessary, for a couple of reasons. IIRC, the clearance on the right side, between the lockring and dropout, is pretty tight. Mine has a freehub that will accept a modern cassette with a lock ring or an older one with the smallest cog threaded to hold it all together. So it has external threads as well as internal. It will take an 11t cog, but only with a 1mm spacer on the back of the cassette, which makes the clearance even less. Respacing will almost certainly cause you to have more dish in the wheel than you would if you leave it at 135. It's an 8 speed hub, so there is already a lot of offset. I routinely use 130mm road hubs in old frames by just spreading the frame when I install the wheel. If you are going to use indexed shifting, you may need to adjust the derailer hanger a bit, a simple operation. I have heard of the grease in some NOS Shimano hubs hardening over the years, so you might want to watch out for that. Those are some fine bearings in there. That M900 stuff is lovely and it all works great. I'm still watching for some of the cranks, but they are getting pretty scarce. Good luck with your project! On Jan 6, 12:51 pm, Ray Colmenar tatay...@gmail.com wrote: if the road frame is 132mm, you might not need to respace. If it's a steel frame, you can usually just spread the chainstays ok. If you do need to respace, I would suggest just getting thinner spacers. You may have to get a shorter axle though depending on the frame you have. On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: First like to wish you all a happy new year! Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a shop parts bin. More info here: http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best. Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run into.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub
Your idea makes sense, if you can respace the drive side without pushing the chain into some part of the frame. On Shimano hubs, there usually are no extra spacers on the drive side, iirc, so you might have to do some grinding or parts swapping to get any respacing done on that side. If you are planning to use an 11t cog, it would be a really good idea to get the cassette mounted on the hub, and check all the clearances with a chain before starting modifications. Clearances get awfully tight in there when you start changing things. On Jan 7, 5:29 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: Thanks for your replies. Frames are all spaced differently. I'm cold setting the road frames from 124/126 to 130mm so there shouldn't be an issue spreading them. But my question was for the hub and when mounting it to a mtb frame it seem like I can reduce the spacers with 2-3 mm on the drive side. As the mtb and road hubs only differs in terms of overall spacing this would lead to less dish. So if this works I should there for end up with a stronger rather than weaker wheel. At the very least I would keep the same amount of wheel dish. Had no idea they were Uniglide compatible too. Strange as I raced in the early 90's with such XTR group on a my Marin Team Issue, witch was later move to a Litespeed Obed before selling. Remember having to repack them and not only was the grease hard, there wasn't enough of it! But after that they stayed very smooth so no doubt will I do that when I remove the spacers. Found a nos 170 mm crankset and some 48-38-26 TA chainrings at bargain price in Paris after last PBP! Did some what reduce the pain of my DNF. On 7 Jan, 02:05, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com wrote: I have one of those hubs on a mountain bike. It is sweet! Nearly silent, for some reason. Anyway, I would not mess with it unless absolutely necessary, for a couple of reasons. IIRC, the clearance on the right side, between the lockring and dropout, is pretty tight. Mine has a freehub that will accept a modern cassette with a lock ring or an older one with the smallest cog threaded to hold it all together. So it has external threads as well as internal. It will take an 11t cog, but only with a 1mm spacer on the back of the cassette, which makes the clearance even less. Respacing will almost certainly cause you to have more dish in the wheel than you would if you leave it at 135. It's an 8 speed hub, so there is already a lot of offset. I routinely use 130mm road hubs in old frames by just spreading the frame when I install the wheel. If you are going to use indexed shifting, you may need to adjust the derailer hanger a bit, a simple operation. I have heard of the grease in some NOS Shimano hubs hardening over the years, so you might want to watch out for that. Those are some fine bearings in there. That M900 stuff is lovely and it all works great. I'm still watching for some of the cranks, but they are getting pretty scarce. Good luck with your project! On Jan 6, 12:51 pm, Ray Colmenar tatay...@gmail.com wrote: if the road frame is 132mm, you might not need to respace. If it's a steel frame, you can usually just spread the chainstays ok. If you do need to respace, I would suggest just getting thinner spacers. You may have to get a shorter axle though depending on the frame you have. On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: First like to wish you all a happy new year! Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a shop parts bin. More info here: http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best. Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run into.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at
[RBW] Re: Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub
Seems like a lot of trouble to me. Assuming you're using steel frames, you could space your 130 mm frames to 132-ish as needed to try them with this wheel. That way you can accumulate a collection of versatile frames rather than one versatile wheel. Regarding spoke length, I always recommend measuring the relevant dimensions of every hub rather than relying on various database values. That said, changing the OLN spacing by a couple mm will have a negligible effect on spoke length. Any 163-168 mm q/r skewer should work. On Jan 6, 1:33 pm, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: First like to wish you all a happy new year! Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a shop parts bin. More info here:http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best. Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run into. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub
I have one of those hubs on a mountain bike. It is sweet! Nearly silent, for some reason. Anyway, I would not mess with it unless absolutely necessary, for a couple of reasons. IIRC, the clearance on the right side, between the lockring and dropout, is pretty tight. Mine has a freehub that will accept a modern cassette with a lock ring or an older one with the smallest cog threaded to hold it all together. So it has external threads as well as internal. It will take an 11t cog, but only with a 1mm spacer on the back of the cassette, which makes the clearance even less. Respacing will almost certainly cause you to have more dish in the wheel than you would if you leave it at 135. It's an 8 speed hub, so there is already a lot of offset. I routinely use 130mm road hubs in old frames by just spreading the frame when I install the wheel. If you are going to use indexed shifting, you may need to adjust the derailer hanger a bit, a simple operation. I have heard of the grease in some NOS Shimano hubs hardening over the years, so you might want to watch out for that. Those are some fine bearings in there. That M900 stuff is lovely and it all works great. I'm still watching for some of the cranks, but they are getting pretty scarce. Good luck with your project! On Jan 6, 12:51 pm, Ray Colmenar tatay...@gmail.com wrote: if the road frame is 132mm, you might not need to respace. If it's a steel frame, you can usually just spread the chainstays ok. If you do need to respace, I would suggest just getting thinner spacers. You may have to get a shorter axle though depending on the frame you have. On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: First like to wish you all a happy new year! Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a shop parts bin. More info here: http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best. Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run into.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
