Re: [RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-13 Thread Johnny Alien
Yes I was exaggerating the miles. The first day I didn't do too many miles but 
the second day I did a few. I would say that the realistic mileage was closer 
to 20-30 before major chain suck. On the second day I would guess I did little 
shifting on the front. My point remains that its a ton of chainstay damage for 
the low miles. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-13 Thread qwerty
Hmmm, there are several conflicting and confusing issues here

In your initial posting, you said you rode the bike for two days without
any shifting issues.  Then, you later say you had chain suck in the
first 2-5 miles of riding the bike.

Also, I'm sceptical that the high limit screw, which you said earlier
was causing the deraileur to rub the chain and chain guard (i.e. outer
ring, which sounds like a slight adjustment), would lead to a chain
suck insident causing damage to the paint on the chainstay.

One thing's for sure...chain suck sucks!  Especially on a new bike.
But don't feel alone, as I doubt there are many here who haven't had
that experience.

Mike G.

On 8/13/13, Johnny Alien  wrote:
> I realized afterwards that the cable was not loose. The positioning was fine
> but the derailluer would come out too far allowing the chain to jump off the
> large ring. It was 100% the h screw not being set correctly. It was way off
> and I don't see a way that shipping could have changed that. It looks like
> it wasn't adjusted properly at the store.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-13 Thread Johnny Alien
I realized afterwards that the cable was not loose. The positioning was fine 
but the derailluer would come out too far allowing the chain to jump off the 
large ring. It was 100% the h screw not being set correctly. It was way off and 
I don't see a way that shipping could have changed that. It looks like it 
wasn't adjusted properly at the store. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-12 Thread cyclotourist
The bolt holding the derailer clamp on the downtube might have
loosened as well, causing the derailer to spin on the tube. They spin
down and clockwise. Just something else to check...

On 8/11/13, Zack  wrote:
> Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was shipped,
> the FD cable/housing popped out of sitting flush in the frame, so the
> housing ferrule is sitting on the frame in a way that is different from how
>
> it should be.  This has happened to me when unboxing a bike.  Just a
> thought.
>
>
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Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-11 Thread Zack
Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was shipped, 
the FD cable/housing popped out of sitting flush in the frame, so the 
housing ferrule is sitting on the frame in a way that is different from how 
it should be.  This has happened to me when unboxing a bike.  Just a 
thought.


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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-08-10 Thread Johnny Alien
I was able to adjust the FD and now it shifts perfectly.  For the record 
there were two issues at play here.

1.  The FD was not adjust correctly.  It wasn't even close...I have no idea 
why it was this far out of whack.
2.  The shifters needed to be tightened.

The second issue is apparently very common and as noted it will need to be 
re-tightened from time to time.  RIvendell said they have though about 
including info that it would most likely need to be done and I have since 
told them that is a very good idea.  I actually question why, if they know 
it's a common issue, they would still only be "thinking" about including 
this info.

The first issue is actually what caused my chain suck. The worst part is 
that because it was not done right and because it caused chain suck the 
paint on my chainstay is severely messed up.  I am not someone who babies 
their bikes and wear is OK but when you get the paint destroyed on a $2500 
bike within the first 2-5 miles because of an assembly error it puts a sour 
taste in your mouth. I let them know that I was displeased but never heard 
anything back even as far as an apology.  When buying a Rivendell you agree 
to pay a premium for alot of parts as well and part of all of that is you 
expect pretty much the best the whole way down the line.

Things happen and I won't dwell on it but I did want to let people know 
that even though it is coming from Riv please do a full checkup of every 
part before taking it out.  Their assembly after shipping video does not 
mention anything past putting it together and while that may be OK for most 
people in my case I would have saved some heartache had I know to check out 
all the shifting as well.

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-28 Thread Larry H
You will find they need to be tightened on occasion.  If you need to adjust the 
derailer, watch the Riv video on YouTube.  It can be a challenge at first, but 
once you get the hang of it, it's great to know you can do it yourself.  

Congrats on the new ride.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 07/27/2013 07:05 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:
OK, I stand corrected.  Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem 
to have corrected the issue on both derailers.  The front one can be 
overshifted in a way.  If you take it too far it will move out far 
enough to rub the chain and chain guard.  Easy enough to take care of 
as all you need to do is not move the shifter that far but just 
something I noted.


Or, adjust the derailleur stop screw to keep it from moving that far.


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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread Johnny Alien
OK, I stand corrected.  Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem to 
have corrected the issue on both derailers.  The front one can be 
overshifted in a way.  If you take it too far it will move out far enough 
to rub the chain and chain guard.  Easy enough to take care of as all you 
need to do is not move the shifter that far but just something I noted. 
 Past that it seems to be shifting OK now.

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread Johnny Alien
I forgot to mention that I can't really test it at the moment as it is 
storming like crazy.

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread Johnny Alien
Thanks guys. I did know they were called chainrings but then just got my 
brain off track by thinking of what the rear ones were called which I 
assumed was cogs but I wasn't sure.  I tightened both of the D rings and 
that might be enough to fix the rear derailer but when I checked the cables 
as someone mentioned earlier the front cable is very looser in comparison 
to the rear one.  Is there an adjustment somewhere to make that tighter?

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread William
Johnny

The IRD thumbshifters have the internals of the Silver downtube shifters.  
The D-ring on top can be tightened with your fingers to add friction to the 
assembly.  That friction is necessary to hold your chain in gear.  Each 
derailer has a return spring that wants to move the chain to a smaller 
cog.  You move the shifter to pull the cable to pull the chain to the next 
larger cog, and you move the shifter the other way to release the cable so 
that spring can move the chain to the next smaller cog.  If the internal 
friction in the shifter is too weak, the spring in the derailer wins the 
little tug of war and moves the shifter without you noticing and shifts on 
its own.  Just tighten the D-rings on both shifters.  Too tight and it'll 
be hard to move the shifter or you'll break the plastic washer on top.  
This is standard care and feeding of a friction shifter.  You'll have to do 
it periodically, and it probably will get to be second nature and you'll do 
it while riding and not even notice yourself doing it.  They loosen 
themselves up, and it's nice to have JUST BARELY ENOUGH friction so they 
keep a light touch in both directions

That'll take care of it!

On Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:48:14 AM UTC-7, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> OK so I just got my new Hillborne this week.  It is completely friction 
> and I am using the IRD thumbshifters with the Deore rear derailer and the 
> CX front derailer.  It has a Sugino double crankset.  On day one it worked 
> wonderful and the shifting with the IRD thumbshifters was great.  I did a 
> few more hours the next day and it was fine that day as well. This morning 
> I go out for a ride and shifting the front gears resulted in the chain 
> getting jammed up around the front derailer. I got it loose again and from 
> that point on any attempt to shift the front resulted in the chain trying 
> to hang up or it just shifting back down to the smaller cog.  That was the 
> more frequent result.  Basically I would shift it to the higher cog and it 
> would act like it was going to do it and then drop down to the smaller cog. 
>  This would also pull the shifter back into that position.  I figured I 
> would just do the ride on that cog and shift only the rear and about a mile 
> later the rear derailer starts acting the same way.  Anything I shift to 
> above the smallest cog would work for a few turns and then drop back down 
> to the small cog again and the shifter would flop to that position.  This 
> is a new bike so the cable and housing is all new as are the derailers.  I 
> am not sure where to start. I am not shy about working on my bike but I am 
> not smart with derailer issues.  Any ideas?
>

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[RBW] Re: Shifting Issues Question for the Mechanic Types

2013-07-27 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
Could the shifter be loose? Something similar happened to me the other day. 
The left/front barend shifter had gotten loose. A few turns with a (knife 
serving as a) screwdriver was all it took. Anything more complicated than 
that is sadly beyond my expertise. I fit into the willing but barely able 
category when it comes to these things.

Jay

On Saturday, July 27, 2013 7:48:14 PM UTC+3, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> OK so I just got my new Hillborne this week.  It is completely friction 
> and I am using the IRD thumbshifters with the Deore rear derailer and the 
> CX front derailer.  It has a Sugino double crankset.  On day one it worked 
> wonderful and the shifting with the IRD thumbshifters was great.  I did a 
> few more hours the next day and it was fine that day as well. This morning 
> I go out for a ride and shifting the front gears resulted in the chain 
> getting jammed up around the front derailer. I got it loose again and from 
> that point on any attempt to shift the front resulted in the chain trying 
> to hang up or it just shifting back down to the smaller cog.  That was the 
> more frequent result.  Basically I would shift it to the higher cog and it 
> would act like it was going to do it and then drop down to the smaller cog. 
>  This would also pull the shifter back into that position.  I figured I 
> would just do the ride on that cog and shift only the rear and about a mile 
> later the rear derailer starts acting the same way.  Anything I shift to 
> above the smallest cog would work for a few turns and then drop back down 
> to the small cog again and the shifter would flop to that position.  This 
> is a new bike so the cable and housing is all new as are the derailers.  I 
> am not sure where to start. I am not shy about working on my bike but I am 
> not smart with derailer issues.  Any ideas?
>

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