[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I used gorilla clear tape on fork legs, front rack and the downtube run to the rear fender connection. Like Jeff, wanted to drill holes but i chickened out. The tape is very sticky, the internet ad shows a happy parent repairing a kiddie pool under water or a leak on the outside. It may not be as robust as the helicopter tape but will see. Less than one month since application. I used HVAC aluminum tape under fenders. One zip tie on the fender brace at gen connector, and one on the kickstand plate to keep slack wire tucked away. Mike SLO CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
If you happen to have a cantilever Sam I highly recommend the Busch & Müller Cross Bracket. On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 8:28:47 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > So many excellent responses, thank you! > > I neglected to mention that because my Sam has a pump peg, I have a > full-size Zefal that lives permanently beneath the top tube. So it makes > some sense to run the wire along that mess. I also have a permanent mass of > bags in front (Wald basket with shopsack, Swift bar bag, AND a Carsick > Designs stem bag...I love having my cockpit storage), so I'm probably > over-thinking how much a single wire is going to affect the aesthetics on > this rig. I'll see if I can post a pic later today. > > Zip ties are probably the appropriate solution here, but I also like the > 'dabs of Shoe Goo' approach...I might try the Shoe Goo first, for fun... > > As an aside...I attended a S24O this weekend and got the first real > opportunity to use the dyno lights on a mix of pavement, dirt roads, and > trails. I just love the no-thought-required ease of this system. I see the > logic in avoiding the dyno-powered rear light in favor of a battery blinky, > as the rechargeable ones truly do last a long time. But so far I am a fan > of the 'always on' status of a rear tail light (and solid red, no blinky). > I also have a history of rear battery lights bouncing off the bike while > riding in the dirt...I've lost a few that way, but my current Nightrider > version is so small and light, and has a very strong clip, that it has not > happened yet and probably won't. > > Another consideration along those lines...the rear Secula light mounted on > the seat stay is in fact a bit ugly, but not enough to overcome the > utility. It sticks out a bit, and may take a beating at some point. On the > Riv staff bikes page, Roman has that light mounted cleanly on the seat tube > just below the seat stay junction, but I always have bags on the saddle, so > that solution is no go for me. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
The Seculas are very nice and bright lights (steady only) and -- I learned this from Kelly at K-Lites -- are designed to prevent overvolting; apparently the K Lite puts out enough power (it charges a large capacitor in a separate box) to blow unprotected rear dyno lamps (Thanks Steve Kurt, I think it was, who sorted this out). Does anyone have any ideas for mounting the Seculas to the seat stays besides the OEM zip ties? I've got 2 Seculas, 1 dynamo and the other battery, zip tied to the CS just below the rear rack bosses; like Neil I can't mount them on the seatpost, or for that matter, on the rack bosses, because I use saddlebags on this bike; the lights presently are just low enough to clear the bottom of the biggest bag. Ideas besides zip ties? Ideas about brackets/arms attached to rack bosses? Pictures if any? On Mon, Jan 28, 2019 at 9:28 AM Neil Doran wrote: > > > Another consideration along those lines...the rear Secula light mounted on > the seat stay is in fact a bit ugly, but not enough to overcome the > utility. It sticks out a bit, and may take a beating at some point. On the > Riv staff bikes page, Roman has that light mounted cleanly on the seat tube > just below the seat stay junction, but I always have bags on the saddle, so > that solution is no go for me. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I lived with the benefits and deficits of battery lights for 10 of my 12 years of year round commuting. The inability of knowing how much charge remains in regular (or rechargeable) batteries or what effect cold will have on them broke the decision making tie for me. I was stuck in the cold and dark with dead batteries, invisible in the streets other than my reflective bits a few too many times to remain positive or jovial. My current fender mount taillight is not beauteously installed. As the last item of my generator hub powered lighting, decided upon after my last battery burner failure and ride home with my contingent PB clip-on for visibility, my bike was dirty and my work stand in a cold, poorly lit position so my attention to detail was very functional, not aesthetic. I still will not waiver in the utterl happiness being free from charging, managing hordes of rechargeable cells or feeding alkaline batteries on an unpredictable pattern. My fun bike is not wired for generator lighting, but that project is in the works. Until then it’s lit for contingency more than utility. Much easier to manage. Others of more temperate locations, options for ride times and ability to reroute, reschedule or even delay a ride because of light power problems are surely more accepting of the issues that weighted my own decision. My wheel turns, I have illumination. It’s hard to critique my rear wire routing in the dark. Andy Cheatham Pittsburgh -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
So many excellent responses, thank you! I neglected to mention that because my Sam has a pump peg, I have a full-size Zefal that lives permanently beneath the top tube. So it makes some sense to run the wire along that mess. I also have a permanent mass of bags in front (Wald basket with shopsack, Swift bar bag, AND a Carsick Designs stem bag...I love having my cockpit storage), so I'm probably over-thinking how much a single wire is going to affect the aesthetics on this rig. I'll see if I can post a pic later today. Zip ties are probably the appropriate solution here, but I also like the 'dabs of Shoe Goo' approach...I might try the Shoe Goo first, for fun... As an aside...I attended a S24O this weekend and got the first real opportunity to use the dyno lights on a mix of pavement, dirt roads, and trails. I just love the no-thought-required ease of this system. I see the logic in avoiding the dyno-powered rear light in favor of a battery blinky, as the rechargeable ones truly do last a long time. But so far I am a fan of the 'always on' status of a rear tail light (and solid red, no blinky). I also have a history of rear battery lights bouncing off the bike while riding in the dirt...I've lost a few that way, but my current Nightrider version is so small and light, and has a very strong clip, that it has not happened yet and probably won't. Another consideration along those lines...the rear Secula light mounted on the seat stay is in fact a bit ugly, but not enough to overcome the utility. It sticks out a bit, and may take a beating at some point. On the Riv staff bikes page, Roman has that light mounted cleanly on the seat tube just below the seat stay junction, but I always have bags on the saddle, so that solution is no go for me. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
This is something I've never found a particularly elegant solution for on a bike without full fenders, framebag, etc. Usually I ziptie or tape to and run along the rear brake cable and housing. Then wrap around the seatstays. The black wire will stand out on a non-black frame but its functional. On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in > the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am > looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along > the left side seatstay. > > Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives > fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away > from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks > use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? > > Thanks, > > Neil > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I'm with you PM on doubling up front and rear lights on my QB commuter. Dyno lights front and rear are very reliable while the second pair are rechargeable Trek lights. More than once, I've got home or to work and found one of the battery lights had gone out, needing a charge. As for clean routing of the rear dyno light wire, I run it straight along the top of the top tube, a zip tie at each end to hold it taught, the zip ties are next to the brake cable stops, so that they don't move. Works pretty well, not perfect. JohnS On Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 4:04:22 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote: > > I have used battery rear lights with dyno front lights many times, and I > agree that with modern LEDs a battery rear makes a great deal of sense. > But, speaking only for myself, I like the "no though involved" aspect of a > dyno tail light -- and there is also the fact that yes, I've had rear > battery lights go kaput at bad times (I think in particular, but not > solely, of the $400 -- 2003 prices! -- Nightrider arc light system with > built-in problems in the rear wiring). But I take the easy way out by > having 2 of my 3 dyno bikes built or modified for internal or at least neat > and trouble-free rear wiring; it's only the folder that needs zip ties or > Shoe Goo. > > In fact, what I always do in any event is double up on lights, front and > rear, just in case: either 2 battery lights f and r, or dyno + battery. At > least, the backup battery headlamp can serve as a roadside nighttime > flashlight. > > On Sun, Jan 27, 2019 at 1:57 PM Benz, Sunnyvale, CA > wrote: > >> I'll be the contrarian here, and ask if you would consider using a >> battery-powered rear light instead of having ugly runs of wire to the rear >> light. Dynamo rear lights are usually running at 0.3 watts, so even one >> AA-sized Eneloop will have enough for more than 10 hours of operation (>3 >> watt-hour for Pro Eneloops). If your riding schedule is regular, you can >> recharge the battery on a schedule, or just carry a spare that will >> probably last until you get home. Going a bit further, you can also mount >> two rear lights for extra visibility. >> >> Please note that this is a different case for front lights. Front lights >> usually consume about 3 watts, so carrying a spare battery may not be >> convenient; moreover, losing a front light is typically much more of a >> problem than losing a rear light, because there should (hopefully) be >> reflectors that serve as battery less backups, and one cannot install more >> sensitive retinas into one's eyes (à la cats). >> >> Of course, this is all in context of a frame+fork that doesn't have the >> internal wire routing option. >> >> >> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: >>> >>> I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in >>> the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am >>> looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along >>> the left side seatstay. >>> >>> Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives >>> fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away >>> from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks >>> use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Neil >>> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > > -- > > > > > ** > > > > > > *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And > though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the > hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.* > --- J.R.R. Tolkien > --- > Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews > By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching > Other professional writing services > Expensive! But good. > http://www.resumespecialties.com/ > Patrick Moore > Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I have used battery rear lights with dyno front lights many times, and I agree that with modern LEDs a battery rear makes a great deal of sense. But, speaking only for myself, I like the "no though involved" aspect of a dyno tail light -- and there is also the fact that yes, I've had rear battery lights go kaput at bad times (I think in particular, but not solely, of the $400 -- 2003 prices! -- Nightrider arc light system with built-in problems in the rear wiring). But I take the easy way out by having 2 of my 3 dyno bikes built or modified for internal or at least neat and trouble-free rear wiring; it's only the folder that needs zip ties or Shoe Goo. In fact, what I always do in any event is double up on lights, front and rear, just in case: either 2 battery lights f and r, or dyno + battery. At least, the backup battery headlamp can serve as a roadside nighttime flashlight. On Sun, Jan 27, 2019 at 1:57 PM Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: > I'll be the contrarian here, and ask if you would consider using a > battery-powered rear light instead of having ugly runs of wire to the rear > light. Dynamo rear lights are usually running at 0.3 watts, so even one > AA-sized Eneloop will have enough for more than 10 hours of operation (>3 > watt-hour for Pro Eneloops). If your riding schedule is regular, you can > recharge the battery on a schedule, or just carry a spare that will > probably last until you get home. Going a bit further, you can also mount > two rear lights for extra visibility. > > Please note that this is a different case for front lights. Front lights > usually consume about 3 watts, so carrying a spare battery may not be > convenient; moreover, losing a front light is typically much more of a > problem than losing a rear light, because there should (hopefully) be > reflectors that serve as battery less backups, and one cannot install more > sensitive retinas into one's eyes (à la cats). > > Of course, this is all in context of a frame+fork that doesn't have the > internal wire routing option. > > > On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: >> >> I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in >> the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am >> looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along >> the left side seatstay. >> >> Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives >> fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away >> from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks >> use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Neil >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- ** *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.* --- J.R.R. Tolkien --- Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching Other professional writing services Expensive! But good. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I'll be the contrarian here, and ask if you would consider using a battery-powered rear light instead of having ugly runs of wire to the rear light. Dynamo rear lights are usually running at 0.3 watts, so even one AA-sized Eneloop will have enough for more than 10 hours of operation (>3 watt-hour for Pro Eneloops). If your riding schedule is regular, you can recharge the battery on a schedule, or just carry a spare that will probably last until you get home. Going a bit further, you can also mount two rear lights for extra visibility. Please note that this is a different case for front lights. Front lights usually consume about 3 watts, so carrying a spare battery may not be convenient; moreover, losing a front light is typically much more of a problem than losing a rear light, because there should (hopefully) be reflectors that serve as battery less backups, and one cannot install more sensitive retinas into one's eyes (à la cats). Of course, this is all in context of a frame+fork that doesn't have the internal wire routing option. On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in > the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am > looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along > the left side seatstay. > > Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives > fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away > from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks > use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? > > Thanks, > > Neil > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Good masking tape doesn't take paint off (especially bicycle paint), and leaves no residues. However, the adhesive is also pretty weak, and thus wouldn't be an acceptable tape for securing wire runs to the rear light. On Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 12:11:18 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote: > > Don't know about packing tape--probably depends on tape and paint. Will > masking tape take paint off walls or do you pay extra for the blue tape? > Probably a similar thing... > > Toshi > > > On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 2:27 PM Kurt Manley > wrote: > >> Will regular packing tape damage the paint when you take it off? Asking >> for an, umm, friend who taped their dynamo wire to the bottom of the top >> tube w packing tape >> >> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 11:12:21 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote: >>> >>> Hi Neil, >>> >>> 3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more expensive, but it won't rip >>> off the paint from your bike if you need to adjust the tape. I think that >>> would be the benefit of paying more for the tape. >>> >>> Toshi >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 10:15 AM Neil Doran wrote: >>> Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for this application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like your idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as needed in the rear triangle. Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. >>> >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Thanks for this clarification; I may very well give it a try, since the Dahon (a fixie) has no rear brake along which to run the tail light wire, and zip ties (black! On light tanny-cream!) look ugly. I've used rubber cement, from Office Depot or what have you, for patching tubes, and while it didn't work as well as vulcanizing fluid, it worked well enough -- and it is cheap! (Irrelevant anecdote: sophomore year in college I dressed up as an old man with white beard for a party; stupidly used rubber cement to hold the beard to my face. Rubber cement came off easily, taking skin with it. Ugh!) On Sun, Jan 27, 2019 at 2:50 AM ML / SF wrote: > Patrick - yes I think that’s it. > > I’m no expert on adhesives but the shoe goo packaging states it’s fit for > leather, rubber, vinyl and canvas applications. Like you I’ve used shoe goo > for its intended purpose many times in the past, so I was surprised how > gummy it was after 24 hours of curing. Must behave differently on porous > surfaces? > > Anyway I ended up on the shoe goo wiki: > > “Shoe Goo can be used on rubber, wood, glass, concrete and metal. > > The product is also used by hobbyists in lieu of rubber cement as an > assembly adhesive for radio controlled models of cars and aircraft, repair > of Lexan bodies, and as a waterproofing agent for model boats.“ > > And from the rubber cement wiki: > > “Rubber cement is favored in art applications where easy and damage-free > removal of adhesive is desired. Because rubber cements are designed to peel > easily or rub off without damaging the paper or leaving any trace of > adhesive behind, they are ideal for use in paste-up work where excess > cement might need to be removed. It also does not become brittle as paste > does.” > > Hobbyists unite! > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- ** *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.* --- J.R.R. Tolkien --- Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching Other professional writing services Expensive! But good. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
My Homer is a relatively new Waterford - I wish I had the foresight to order my frame pre-drilled. Theoretically you can drill a clean hole without any need to repaint / touchup? On Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 7:33:54 AM UTC-8, Tony DeFilippo wrote: > > After checking in with Grant on my Saluki I drilled a hole in the downtube > to head tube lug window which I then chamfered. The exit hole is about an > inch up the seat tube also chamfered. Drilling the frame isn't for the > faint of heart but it worked for me and does clean up the wiring. My > correspondence from Grant was that both locations were structurally safe to > drill a wire sized hole. > > Tony > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Tony This is exactly what I’d like to do but absolutely refuse to do myself. Ideally I’d have it done when I get my Saluki modded for braze on centerpulls, a rear cable stop and widened chainstays somehow. And painted Chevrolet Synergy green. But that’s for after I get a job. Until then it’s a hodgepodge of snaking and wrapping. -J -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
After checking in with Grant on my Saluki I drilled a hole in the downtube to head tube lug window which I then chamfered. The exit hole is about an inch up the seat tube also chamfered. Drilling the frame isn't for the faint of heart but it worked for me and does clean up the wiring. My correspondence from Grant was that both locations were structurally safe to drill a wire sized hole. Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Patrick - yes I think that’s it. I’m no expert on adhesives but the shoe goo packaging states it’s fit for leather, rubber, vinyl and canvas applications. Like you I’ve used shoe goo for its intended purpose many times in the past, so I was surprised how gummy it was after 24 hours of curing. Must behave differently on porous surfaces? Anyway I ended up on the shoe goo wiki: “Shoe Goo can be used on rubber, wood, glass, concrete and metal. The product is also used by hobbyists in lieu of rubber cement as an assembly adhesive for radio controlled models of cars and aircraft, repair of Lexan bodies, and as a waterproofing agent for model boats.“ And from the rubber cement wiki: “Rubber cement is favored in art applications where easy and damage-free removal of adhesive is desired. Because rubber cements are designed to peel easily or rub off without damaging the paper or leaving any trace of adhesive behind, they are ideal for use in paste-up work where excess cement might need to be removed. It also does not become brittle as paste does.” Hobbyists unite! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Don't know about packing tape--probably depends on tape and paint. Will masking tape take paint off walls or do you pay extra for the blue tape? Probably a similar thing... Toshi On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 2:27 PM Kurt Manley wrote: > Will regular packing tape damage the paint when you take it off? Asking > for an, umm, friend who taped their dynamo wire to the bottom of the top > tube w packing tape > > On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 11:12:21 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote: >> >> Hi Neil, >> >> 3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more expensive, but it won't rip >> off the paint from your bike if you need to adjust the tape. I think that >> would be the benefit of paying more for the tape. >> >> Toshi >> >> >> On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 10:15 AM Neil Doran wrote: >> >>> Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it >>> sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' >>> stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P >>> clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... >>> >>> Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for >>> this application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like >>> your idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as >>> needed in the rear triangle. >>> >>> Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... >>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. >> >> >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Shoe Goo would be wonderful if it didn't finally congeal to a immovable mass. I've used it for almost 40 years for running shoes and cycling shoes, and I use it for a lot of miscellaneous around-the-house fixes; but never in an application where I might have to remove it after it has dried hard. Hell, it's hard to get off my fingers How do you remove it? Perhaps it does come off of smooth, painted metal tubes in a way it certainly doesn't come off of shoe soles or plastic surfaces I've glued with it? Note that I live where humidity dips to 5% in summer (49% when I checked this afternoon), so perhaps things are different where you live, but I am very curious and hope you can confirm your experience. I have a folding Dahon fixie that I'd love to use Shoe Goo on for attaching the rear light wire. On Sat, Jan 26, 2019 at 11:11 PM ML / SF wrote: > I use Shoe Goo to run the wiring under the top tube on my Homer. Pretty > much invisible, which is visually excellent. One thing to note is I > shoulder my bike multiple times per day (apartment, BART, etc), so I need > to reapply the goop every so often to keep wire fixed to frame. It stays > pretty gummy even after plenty of curing time (months), so I can always > remove all of it cleanly with just my fingers and minor elbow grease when > it comes time to reapply. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I use Shoe Goo to run the wiring under the top tube on my Homer. Pretty much invisible, which is visually excellent. One thing to note is I shoulder my bike multiple times per day (apartment, BART, etc), so I need to reapply the goop every so often to keep wire fixed to frame. It stays pretty gummy even after plenty of curing time (months), so I can always remove all of it cleanly with just my fingers and minor elbow grease when it comes time to reapply. On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in > the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am > looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along > the left side seatstay. > > Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives > fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away > from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks > use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? > > Thanks, > > Neil > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I would think about silicone to the ferules or the brake/shifter housing (or even cables!). That way you avoid the frame but have it attached to a nearly-permanent fixture on the frame. Then again I just wrap and pray usually. -J -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I have use very small zip-ties loosely to tie the dyno wire to rear brake cable. Then it is zip-ties to rack strut and rack itself. It qualifies as semi-clean, IMO :) On Friday, 25 January 2019 08:49:36 UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in > the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am > looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along > the left side seatstay. > > Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives > fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away > from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks > use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? > > Thanks, > > Neil > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Will regular packing tape damage the paint when you take it off? Asking for an, umm, friend who taped their dynamo wire to the bottom of the top tube w packing tape On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 11:12:21 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote: > > Hi Neil, > > 3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more expensive, but it won't rip off > the paint from your bike if you need to adjust the tape. I think that > would be the benefit of paying more for the tape. > > Toshi > > > On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 10:15 AM Neil Doran > wrote: > >> Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it >> sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' >> stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P >> clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... >> >> Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for this >> application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like your >> idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as >> needed in the rear triangle. >> >> Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I'll throw some photos up when I get a chance. I use burly outdoor rated cabling rather than co-axial: https://www.mcmaster.com/7000t32 Alternatively, you could use some newbaums wrapped around the wire to make a snugger fit. On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 10:15:01 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it > sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' > stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P > clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... > > Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for this > application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like your > idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as > needed in the rear triangle. > > Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Personally, I would still go under the downtube because the cable will never be in the way. If you plan on using fenders later and wanted to be slick you could wire in a connector just after it swoops under the bb, which, if you put on fenders and wanna disappear the wire under the rear one, you could plug that new wire into the connector at that point. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Hi Neil, 3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more expensive, but it won't rip off the paint from your bike if you need to adjust the tape. I think that would be the benefit of paying more for the tape. Toshi On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 10:15 AM Neil Doran wrote: > Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it > sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' > stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P > clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... > > Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for this > application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like your > idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as > needed in the rear triangle. > > Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n' stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere... Ttoshi, yes, I have seen reference to helicopter tape. I wonder, for this application, would regular 3M packing tape do the trick? I kinda like your idea of running under the top tube with tape, then tape or zip ties as needed in the rear triangle. Thanks all! The Bunch rules for this stuff... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I use my 1/2 framebag to route my cables through the main triangle, then use the plethora of brazeons on the seatstays with the p-clamps provided with honjo/simworks fenders (https://sim.works/collections/small-parts-simworks-by-honjo/products/4rclipset) to do a clean route and allow for easy on-off when I need to. The cable I use is a bit thicker/burlier, so it requires some minor bending and re-bending of those clamps. I can get a picture up at some point if you are curious. Collin On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 8:49:36 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote: > > I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The cabling in > the front along the 27f Nitto rack is straightforward enough, but I am > looking for a clean-ish solution for the rear lamp that is mounted along > the left side seatstay. > > Any cool tricks for routing and securing the cable? This bike now lives > fender-free, and sees a lot of dirt action, making me think of staying away > from the down tube and instead running under the top tube. What do folks > use to secure and/or hide the cable? Packing tape? Tiny zip ties? > > Thanks, > > Neil > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: clean-ish routing for generator lights
I would not categorize my routing job as particularly nifty or clean, but I use color-matched zip ties. Just keep in mind that a hidden wire that's on the wheel-size of the chain stay is more venerable to damage from road debris. Tom -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
