[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-09 Thread Tim Bantham
Update for me as well. Called Riv and confirmed that it would not be uncommon 
for a 62 Sam with a 48/34 big big to result in a new chain being a tad short. I 
added a link or two and connected it all with two quick links. Guys at Riv said 
they have done the same on their own bikes without issue. 

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-09 Thread KenP
update: Yesterday the chain broke where I had connected it; so, from now on 
I will be using a quicklink to connect chains.  Thanks you for this 
thread... Ken P., Alexandria, Va.


On Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 7:32:13 PM UTC-5, KenP wrote:
>
> I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put a 52 ring in the front 
> and 34 big ring on the back.  Works, but it's tight if I run big/big.  
>  Bike shop says if I put too many links, the derailleur will be too loose 
> and will scrape the chain.   I used a chain tool, to piece together the 
> chain and pushed the pin back and forth a few times to be sure the link 
> would swivel freely. It's using only one master link.  Works fine.  Ken P.
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
>> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
>> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
>> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
>> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
>> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
>> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
>> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
>> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
>> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
>> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
>> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
>> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
>> other?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-06 Thread KenP
I put 125 links on my Appaloosa 9 speed chain; put a 52 ring in the front 
and 34 big ring on the back.  Works, but it's tight if I run big/big.  
 Bike shop says if I put too many links, the derailleur will be too loose 
and will scrape the chain.   I used a chain tool, to piece together the 
chain and pushed the pin back and forth a few times to be sure the link 
would swivel freely. It's using only one master link.  Works fine.  Ken P.

On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
Lot's of chains come with 114 links.  KMC chains appear to all come in 116 
link length.  Do you happen to know how long your KMC chain is?  Is is 57" 
long or 58" long?  Or shorter?  Maybe your chain is accidentally short?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 5:41:12 AM UTC-8, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-05 Thread RichS
Hi Tim:

My Sam has a 43 big ring, 28 tooth rear cog and I've ended up with four or 
five extra links when installing a chain. Like Jim, I've used two quick 
links on a Clem and the chain was trouble free. Hope you enjoy your Sam. 

Best,
Richard

On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-05 Thread jim
I have used two quick links that close to salvage a broken chain. Disn't 
have any problems.

Jim (in COLD Madison WI)

On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 7:41:12 AM UTC-6, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Re: New Chain Too Short?

2018-02-05 Thread lconley
Not surprising, the 48 chainring, 34 rear cog, and Rivendell chainstay 
length are all on the edge of normal these days. You have run into 
tolerance stack - too many tolerances going one way and you end up out of 
overall tolerance - in this case; standard chain length. I bought an extra 
SS 9 speed Wipperman chain just to rob links out of for my various 
Rivendells. I even commit the sin of using my pin tool to join the extra 
links by pressing the pin so I have only one quick link.

Laing
Cocoa FL



On Monday, February 5, 2018 at 8:41:12 AM UTC-5, Tim Bantham wrote:

> I am in the process of building up my Sam and I ran into a frustrating 
> snag with a brand new chain. Using the Sheldon Browne method for sizing a 
> chain I put the chain on big/big without the rear der. and found that the 
> chain was one or two links short. The gearing is 48 front and 34 on the 
> rear cassette. I was surprised (and frustrated that a brand new KMC x9 
> chain out of the box is too short. I had to add links for my Appaloosa 
> which of course has the super long chainstay but I didn't think it would be 
> needed on the Sam. I can add a link or two and then join the extra links by 
> implementing two quicklinks instead of just one. To me it doesn't seam like 
> it's correct to have two quick links with only one or two links between 
> them.  Has anyone else encountered a chain that was two short out of the 
> box on a Sam or other Riv with a fairly typical chain stay length? Does it 
> create a weakness in the chain if I have two quick links so close to each 
> other?
>

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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread Garth

Yeah .  . . .  what's been said.  . . just wipe it down after each ride.  

I'm at a point where I don't want to do chain maintenance at all, other 
than replace them or wipe them .  It just seems, well, archaic.  We're in 
the year 2014 and we're still resorting to soaking chains in toxic shmoxic 
stuff just to get them clean , so we can do it all over again !  Comical 
at best !  

I see ebikestop you can get 25 KMC x8.93 chains for $175.45 shipped. $7 a 
chain !  Why bother with cleaning at all, just ride it and toss it. When I 
think of all the time and money spent on lubes, cleaners and cleaning . . . 
wow .  

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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread William R.
Garth: I really over paid at $14.95 a chain! I got three at that price. Plan to 
change them out every 1000 miles. Now that I have the super-nice Rene Herse 
crankset and also very nice SRAM 9-speed cassette. Not sure which model but it 
has a solid red sleeve for the six largest cogs. Really quiet and solid. I 
really want the teeth on these two items to last as long as possible! What I 
have done for the longest time is use wd40 on my chain before every ride. A 
good soaking and a good wipe. This has worked well. Almost too well as my 
chains last so long without any big problems that I haven't really paid 
attention to wear as much as I should. You should see the teeth on my old Apex 
crank. The teeth are all worn down to points! 

Well, I rode the new chain 50+ miles this morning on only the factory lube. I 
guess I will do the same for as long as I can take it. Then I will go back to 
my tried and true wd40 method.

-Bill

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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread ted
Bill,

The main problem people have with their chains is that they wear, and if 
you use them when too worn they ruin your chainrings and cogs. Sounds like 
you have had this problem. The chain doesn't need to be clean so much as it 
needs to be lubricated. It is also better if you don't wash grit from the 
surface of the chain into the rollers when you apply additional lubricant. 
Applying a penetrating agent like WD40 to a dirty chain without doing a 
complete soak and clean is liable to do just that. If you just leave the 
chain alone, you will probably get several hundred miles before you need to 
do anything with it. Telltale squeaking is the sign that a chain needs 
attention, not exterior dirt. A good chain lube will give hundreds of miles 
between applications. If you need to apply fresh lubricant before every 
ride to keep your chain quiet, the lube you are using is probably not well 
suited to the task.


On Sunday, June 29, 2014 8:11:47 AM UTC-7, William R. wrote:

 Garth: I really over paid at $14.95 a chain! I got three at that price. 
 Plan to change them out every 1000 miles. Now that I have the super-nice 
 Rene Herse crankset and also very nice SRAM 9-speed cassette. Not sure 
 which model but it has a solid red sleeve for the six largest cogs. Really 
 quiet and solid. I really want the teeth on these two items to last as long 
 as possible! What I have done for the longest time is use wd40 on my chain 
 before every ride. A good soaking and a good wipe. This has worked well. 
 Almost too well as my chains last so long without any big problems that I 
 haven't really paid attention to wear as much as I should. You should see 
 the teeth on my old Apex crank. The teeth are all worn down to points! 

 Well, I rode the new chain 50+ miles this morning on only the factory 
 lube. I guess I will do the same for as long as I can take it. Then I will 
 go back to my tried and true wd40 method.

 -Bill



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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread William R.
Thanks Ted. Now I'm going to open the can of worms! What do all of you out 
there consider to be good chain lubes? I have used White Lightning 
(didn't like it), Tri-Flow (like it, have some, is this a good one?), T9 
(have some, not my favorite, seems to attract dirt more than the others)

-Bill

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Re: [RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread Patrick Moore
These are 9 speed chains? If so, does anyone know if these KMC chains shift
and track as well as SRAM chains? I use the relatively cheap ~$20 SRAM 9 sp
model.

It has been a long time, but I seem to remember that KMC chains I used for
fixed were more noisy than SRAMs., but then these were probably cheap 7
speed or even 1/8 models.

Moving along: I seem to find that the $20 SRAM 9 sp chain on the Fargo's
home-built 13-27 9 sp cassette tracks better on the cogs -- less need for
precision in moving to an adjacent cog, and once the chain gets there, less
tendency to rattle on one of the adjacent cogs -- ie, less need for
trimming; this in comparison to the also home-built 9 sp 16-26 cassette on
the Ram -- running a similar if not identical chain. Or perhaps this is the
shift levers: Silver (bar end) versus Retrofriction (dt).


On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 6:19 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Yeah .  . . .  what's been said.  . . just wipe it down after each ride.

 I'm at a point where I don't want to do chain maintenance at all, other
 than replace them or wipe them .  It just seems, well, archaic.  We're in
 the year 2014 and we're still resorting to soaking chains in toxic shmoxic
 stuff just to get them clean , so we can do it all over again !  Comical
 at best !

 I see ebikestop you can get 25 KMC x8.93 chains for $175.45 shipped. $7 a
 chain !  Why bother with cleaning at all, just ride it and toss it. When I
 think of all the time and money spent on lubes, cleaners and cleaning . . .
 wow .

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By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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Re: [RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread Patrick Moore
A recent thread on this list discussed the virtues of chain saw oil; one
virtue being the low cost. The thread discussed the dirtiness of chains so
lubed, with someone commenting that you can prevent the adherence of grit
if you wipe the chain very thoroughly after careful application.

I plan to look for some when I next go to True Value.

My question (since at 2K miles all my chains are invariably almost worn
out) is whether high torque pedaling, as when you climb on a fixed gear,
wears chains more quickly than light torque spinning. I like to climb
standing.


On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 11:41 AM, William R. wroma...@optonline.net wrote:

 Thanks Ted. Now I'm going to open the can of worms! What do all of you out
 there consider to be good chain lubes? I have used White Lightning
 (didn't like it), Tri-Flow (like it, have some, is this a good one?), T9
 (have some, not my favorite, seems to attract dirt more than the others)

 -Bill

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Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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Re: [RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread Garth

Patrick, from what I have read about KMC chains online, in reviews and 
such, is that they work as well and better than Sram chains.   I too have 
used nothing but Sram and before that Sedis, but KMC these days is a very 
good if not better option.  

Here's the links for the bulk chains, it appears there is a $3 charge for 
being oversized shipping, if Fed Ground is chosen that is. Still, a great 
idea !  
8 speed 
http://www.ebikestop.com/kmc_bulk_x893_silver_116l_box25-CH4133.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CjgKEAjw8r6dBRDZprbmndPi90sSJAB2U6dRViiUQ7IddlfqIRFfaum8oP3h4mfrscpJ22JRL7_vVPD_BwE
9 speed 
http://www.ebikestop.com/kmc_bulk_x993_silver_116l_box25-CH4132.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CjgKEAjw8r6dBRDZprbmndPi90sSJAB2U6dRe5hAXLud3-OCzQrGnZHqC9kDAX8W8ly6kmsUR7s1r_D_BwE
The 9 speed is still less that $10 a chain !  WoW :)  

I now wonder if it's not better to INVEST in chains, and forget about 
cleaning altogether. Just ride the factory stuff and see how long it goes.  
I have so many odd lubes around I could just use them if I needed some more 
lube.  But if I got say, 1000k or a little more out a chain and tossed it, 
really @7 bucks for the 8 speed chains I can't really argue with that.  The 
thing is, oil attracts dirt and there is no changing that. I myself have 
had it with cleaning chains, even new ones to put wax lubes on. I don't 
want chemicals of any kind anymore. Even oil/grease is not really clean, 
but I can certainly minimize my life with it by just using what's on the 
chain and let it be :) 

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Re: [RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread Patrick Moore
Many thanks, Garth. I'll consider this purchase very carefully $10.16 per
chain -- not too shabby. I'm asking my brother if he wants to go halves.

Ryan Watson?



On Sun, Jun 29, 2014 at 1:50 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Patrick, from what I have read about KMC chains online, in reviews and
 such, is that they work as well and better than Sram chains.   I too have
 used nothing but Sram and before that Sedis, but KMC these days is a very
 good if not better option.

 Here's the links for the bulk chains, it appears there is a $3 charge for
 being oversized shipping, if Fed Ground is chosen that is. Still, a great
 idea !
 8 speed
 http://www.ebikestop.com/kmc_bulk_x893_silver_116l_box25-CH4133.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CjgKEAjw8r6dBRDZprbmndPi90sSJAB2U6dRViiUQ7IddlfqIRFfaum8oP3h4mfrscpJ22JRL7_vVPD_BwE
 9 speed
 http://www.ebikestop.com/kmc_bulk_x993_silver_116l_box25-CH4132.php?PARTNER=GOOGPSgclid=CjgKEAjw8r6dBRDZprbmndPi90sSJAB2U6dRe5hAXLud3-OCzQrGnZHqC9kDAX8W8ly6kmsUR7s1r_D_BwE
 The 9 speed is still less that $10 a chain !  WoW :)

 I now wonder if it's not better to INVEST in chains, and forget about
 cleaning altogether. Just ride the factory stuff and see how long it goes.
 I have so many odd lubes around I could just use them if I needed some more
 lube.  But if I got say, 1000k or a little more out a chain and tossed it,
 really @7 bucks for the 8 speed chains I can't really argue with that.  The
 thing is, oil attracts dirt and there is no changing that. I myself have
 had it with cleaning chains, even new ones to put wax lubes on. I don't
 want chemicals of any kind anymore. Even oil/grease is not really clean,
 but I can certainly minimize my life with it by just using what's on the
 chain and let it be :)

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-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried.
Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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Re: [RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-29 Thread William R.
Thanks Patrick. Chain saw oil. I have some. When I do put something on this new 
chain maybe I will try that first. And wipe it very well.

Only one ride on this KMC chain. It feels very nice. Shifts cleanly. I notice 
no difference compared to the SRAM chains I've been using except this has that 
nice new chain feel to it. :-)

-Bill

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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
No idea. I always take off the factory lube and start fresh with my fancy 
schmancy polymer lube.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, June 28, 2014 7:57:37 AM UTC-6, William R. wrote:

 Just installed a new chain (kmc 9 speed) on my Soma Grand Randonneur (Riv 
 content: noodles, nitto stem, brooks saddle, velocity/atlas wheels, brand v 
 bag, newbaums, brakes all from Riv!). My question is that I want to try to 
 run the chain with only the factory lube. It's been said here that the 
 chain holds up well this way. But as time goes by and the miles add up, how 
 do I maintain the chain and keep it clean? Thanks for any tips and tricks 
 anyone can give for this. -Bill

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[RBW] Re: new chain

2014-06-28 Thread EricK
I dampen (not soak) a rag with preferred solvent and wipe the factory goop 
off the exterior of the chain first.  

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread pam
I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much.  I'm not very
mechanical.  I'll look at the chainring too.  It wasn't knocked out of
adjustment because I watched him install it.  I checked the master
link.  It looks ok.  It may be the derailleur but I have friction
shifters so I wouldn't think it was that.  I'm not going to make any
adjustments.  I'll take it back to the LBS to check.  It's not very
often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday.

And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain
ring.  That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the
time.

On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment,
 maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install.  Did you try
 adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but
 if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and
 make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying them
 to do it.  The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net about
 it.







 On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote:
  More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from
  Rivendell.  I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about
  keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain.  The new
  chain does have a master link.  If the cassette is worn, do I replace
  the whole thing?  I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog.
  Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing?  I'll look at the cog
  and try to see.

  On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
   Hi Pam,

   I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't
  replaced
   those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.    You'll know
  if
   the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin.

   Matt

   On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:

I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out.
The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the
problem?

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread William
I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm misunderstanding 
something terribly, there's no way you should be spending 70% of your time 
riding in your highest gear.  It makes my knees hurt just thinking about 
it.  You should be trying to ride in approximately the 90-100RPM range. 
 Spinners might tell you higher.  Mashers might tell you lower.  90-100 
is a good medium.  If I was riding in my highest gear at 90RPM, I'd be 
going 30MPH.  I use my highest gear much less than 1% of the time. 
 Completely separate from drivetrain wear, I recommend you get some advice 
on that front.  Focussing on drivetrain wear, if you ride 2700 miles on a 
single 12 or 11 tooth cog, it's probably worn out.  Replace.  

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:59:56 AM UTC-7, pam wrote:

 I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much.  I'm not very 
 mechanical.  I'll look at the chainring too.  It wasn't knocked out of 
 adjustment because I watched him install it.  I checked the master 
 link.  It looks ok.  It may be the derailleur but I have friction 
 shifters so I wouldn't think it was that.  I'm not going to make any 
 adjustments.  I'll take it back to the LBS to check.  It's not very 
 often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday. 

 And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain 
 ring.  That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the 
 time. 

 On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur 
 adjustment, 
  maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install.  Did you try 
  adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise 
 but 
  if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow 
 and 
  make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying 
 them 
  to do it.  The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net 
 about 
  it. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote: 
   More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from 
   Rivendell.  I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about 
   keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain.  The new 
   chain does have a master link.  If the cassette is worn, do I replace 
   the whole thing?  I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog. 
   Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing?  I'll look at the cog 
   and try to see. 
  
   On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
Hi Pam, 
  
I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't 
   replaced 
those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll 
 know 
   if 
the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. 
  
Matt 
  
On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote: 
  
 I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. 
 The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's 
 the 
 problem? 
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 12:33 -0700, William wrote:
 I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm
 misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be
 spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear.  It makes my
 knees hurt just thinking about it.  

He said 70% of his time in the big ring, not in his highest gear.  If
your big ring is geared low enough, for example a 46 or 48T, you might
not have to shift to a smaller chain ring until you need a gear lower
than 50 inches or so.



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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread Mojo
Ah ha! You ride in this smallest cog most of the time! Take another look 
but the back side of the teeth on that cog are most likely cupped 
(increasing slope of the tooth until it becomes an overhang near the top). 
This is good news as buying a new final cog is easy and much cheaper than a 
whole cassette. This is also bad news as you are riding in your biggest 
gear all the time. Something is wrong here. You either need much higher 
gearing, or more likely, your leg speed is really slow and you need to 
learn to use your gears more efficently. You want a leg speed of something 
at or greater to 70 rpm on the flats, 90 rpm is better.  

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 11:59:56 AM UTC-6, pam wrote:

 I tried looking at the cog but I can't tell much.  I'm not very 
 mechanical.  I'll look at the chainring too.  It wasn't knocked out of 
 adjustment because I watched him install it.  I checked the master 
 link.  It looks ok.  It may be the derailleur but I have friction 
 shifters so I wouldn't think it was that.  I'm not going to make any 
 adjustments.  I'll take it back to the LBS to check.  It's not very 
 often - just twice in 14 miles yesterday. 

 And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain 
 ring.  That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the 
 time. 

 On Apr 16, 11:32 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur 
 adjustment, 
  maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install.  Did you try 
  adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise 
 but 
  if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow 
 and 
  make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying 
 them 
  to do it.  The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net 
 about 
  it. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote: 
   More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from 
   Rivendell.  I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about 
   keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain.  The new 
   chain does have a master link.  If the cassette is worn, do I replace 
   the whole thing?  I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog. 
   Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing?  I'll look at the cog 
   and try to see. 
  
   On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
Hi Pam, 
  
I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't 
   replaced 
those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll 
 know 
   if 
the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. 
  
Matt 
  
On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote: 
  
 I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. 
 The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's 
 the 
 problem? 
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread William
And it is in the smallest cog on the cassette in the largest chain 
ring.  That's where I do most of my riding - probably 70% of the 
time.

I must've misread it then.  I see that telling me smallest cog on the 
cassette in the largest chain ringprobably 70% of the time.  

I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not 
controversial.  But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time.  If I used my 
44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog would be 
shot. 




On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:59:50 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 12:33 -0700, William wrote:
  I mean this in the nicest possible way, but unless I'm
  misunderstanding something terribly, there's no way you should be
  spending 70% of your time riding in your highest gear.  It makes my
  knees hurt just thinking about it.  

 He said 70% of his time in the big ring, not in his highest gear.  If
 your big ring is geared low enough, for example a 46 or 48T, you might
 not have to shift to a smaller chain ring until you need a gear lower
 than 50 inches or so.



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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote:
 
 I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not
 controversial.  But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time.  If I
 used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog
 would be shot.  

And I agree with what you just said.



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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-17 Thread William
...and I agree with you agreeing with me...

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:54:38 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 13:26 -0700, William wrote:
  
  I agree 70% of the time in the large chainring (mine's a 44) is not
  controversial.  But I use my 44x11 less than 1% of the time.  If I
  used my 44x11 for 2700 miles my knees would be gone, and that 11T cog
  would be shot.  

 And I agree with what you just said.



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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-16 Thread pam
More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from
Rivendell.  I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about
keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain.  The new
chain does have a master link.  If the cassette is worn, do I replace
the whole thing?  I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog.
Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing?  I'll look at the cog
and try to see.


On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Pam,

 I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced
 those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.    You'll know if
 the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin.

 Matt







 On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:

  I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out.
  The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the
  problem?

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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-16 Thread Peter Morgano
Only skipping in smallest cog makes me think it is a deraileur adjustment,
maybe they knocked it out of whack a bit on the install.  Did you try
adjusting the tension back there? I dont know your level of expertise but
if you havent done this kind of thing before just remember to go slow and
make small adjustments or else you will have it back at the LBS paying them
to do it.  The late great Sheldon Brown has a few articles on the net about
it.

On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote:

 More detail - the chain and cassette were new last May from
 Rivendell.  I've ridden about 2700 miles and I just learned about
 keeping the chain clean so I understood I needed a new chain.  The new
 chain does have a master link.  If the cassette is worn, do I replace
 the whole thing?  I've only noticed the skipping in the smallest cog.
 Can the cog just be replaced or the whole thing?  I'll look at the cog
 and try to see.


 On Apr 15, 8:39 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi Pam,
 
  I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't
 replaced
  those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know
 if
  the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin.
 
  Matt
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:
 
   I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out.
   The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the
   problem?

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-16 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
If it is the smallest cog only, then the stiff link hypothesis has a point in 
its favor, as the stiff link will be most obvious on the smallest cog, which 
has the tightest curvature.

You can generally buy a small cog for your cassette if it turns out to be worn. 
Seems unlikely, because most people don't ride many miles on the smallest 
cog...unless they're also riding in one of the smaller chainrings. This 
cross-chaining practice prematurely wears cogs, rings, and chains and should 
be avoided.

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-16 Thread Lynne Fitz
Check your chainrings.  That was the problem I had, once.  Replaced
the chain.  Replaced the cassette.  Finally took it into the shop.
Head mechanic: did no one look at your chainrings?

Bleriot's chainrings (13500+ mi) are starting to look suspect, but
nothing is skipping... yet.

Lynne

On Apr 16, 9:16 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 If it is the smallest cog only, then the stiff link hypothesis has a point in 
 its favor, as the stiff link will be most obvious on the smallest cog, which 
 has the tightest curvature.

 You can generally buy a small cog for your cassette if it turns out to be 
 worn. Seems unlikely, because most people don't ride many miles on the 
 smallest cog...unless they're also riding in one of the smaller chainrings. 
 This cross-chaining practice prematurely wears cogs, rings, and chains and 
 should be avoided.

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-16 Thread William
I needed a small chainring when I did my winter overhaul on the Hilsen. 
 New chain and the hooky teeth wanted to pull it up like precursor to 
chainsuck.  They were pretty sharkfin-ish.  

On Monday, April 16, 2012 11:48:18 AM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:

 Check your chainrings.  That was the problem I had, once.  Replaced 
 the chain.  Replaced the cassette.  Finally took it into the shop. 
 Head mechanic: did no one look at your chainrings? 

 Bleriot's chainrings (13500+ mi) are starting to look suspect, but 
 nothing is skipping... yet. 

 Lynne 

 On Apr 16, 9:16 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  If it is the smallest cog only, then the stiff link hypothesis has a 
 point in its favor, as the stiff link will be most obvious on the smallest 
 cog, which has the tightest curvature. 
  
  You can generally buy a small cog for your cassette if it turns out to 
 be worn. Seems unlikely, because most people don't ride many miles on the 
 smallest cog...unless they're also riding in one of the smaller chainrings. 
 This cross-chaining practice prematurely wears cogs, rings, and chains 
 and should be avoided.

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-15 Thread newenglandbike
Hi Pam,

I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced 
those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if 
the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. 

Matt   



On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:

 I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. 
 The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the 
 problem? 


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Re: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-15 Thread Peter Morgano
Maybe a stiff link in the new chain?
On Apr 15, 2012 8:39 PM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Pam,

 I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced
 those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if
 the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin.

 Matt



 On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:

 I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out.
 The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the
 problem?

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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-15 Thread Tim
I agree. Both of those answers are probably the two most likely
suspects. Your old chain and your cassette wore together, and when you
put the new chain on, it revealed the wear in the cassette that was
hidden before.

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RE: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-15 Thread Joe Bartoe

That would be the answer. Replacing a worn chain resulting in skipping should 
always make you think worn cassette. If no amount of adjusting dials it in, 
it's time for a new cassette.

I didn't see the original thread here, but if you're using a master link, make 
sure it's installed properly. If it isn't seated properly, it may be shorter 
than it should be at that link. If you have a Wipperman link, there's an 
orientation that you need to worry about. Barring that, new cassette.

Joe

Joe Bartoe

Synaptic Cycles Bicycle Rentals, Inc.
email: j...@synapticcycles.com
website: www.synapticcycles.com
Twitter: @synapticcycles

phone: 949-374-6079

 Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 19:12:06 -0700
 Subject: [RBW] Re: New chain skipping
 From: tki...@comcast.net
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 
 I agree. Both of those answers are probably the two most likely
 suspects. Your old chain and your cassette wore together, and when you
 put the new chain on, it revealed the wear in the cassette that was
 hidden before.
 
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