Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
If your buds leave you behind because you're going 15 and they can go 16, maybe you don't need better gear, just better friends. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
Oh, for what it's worth, I find 28-30 mm tires(if they are light and supple) to be the sweet spot for rougher pavement and for mostly pavement with a bit of firm dirt and gravel; this for 700C and 559. For smooth pavement only, I'd say 26 - 28 is a sweet spot. I certainly wouldn't choose 35+ for smooth paved roads, and I'd prefer 38+ for dirt, and at least 50 for our sandy dirt; but for sand, I find that bigger wheels roll over it better and can get by with slightly narrower tires and higher pressures. On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore wrote: > I have to agree with Garth that "best width" for "this or that condition" > is a pretty wide box. I don't agree that everything to do with wheel size > and bike design is "subjective" -- meaning by this word "entirely based on > an individual's particular likes and dislikes"; I do think that there are > real parameters. Still, first: taste plays a huge role; what is "better" > for me may not be "better" for you; and second: bike design makes a huge > difference. One little example: my first, early 1995 26 wheel road custom > felt best -- to me -- with 30+ mm tires; put on 22s and it was a wee bit > too twitchy -- not horrible, but still so. > > When I had my 2 later ones made, I told Grant about this, and he > questioned me closely about the smallest tire I'd use on it; I told him the > 559 X 23 Turbos or Conti GPs and so on, 24" overall diameter. He so > designed these 2 that they felt very stable with the skinnies, but not > sluggish with the 32s. > > Perhaps a low trail geometry is more sensitive to wheel size and weight; I > don't know. I certainly do find a 26er with light wheels more nimble than a > Fargo with 800 gram rims and 800 gram tires. But the Fargo surprised me by > how nimble it was on tightly winding singletrack (flat; I can handle flat > singletrack; it's the steep, rutted stuff that I don't like), and I > certainly don't feel constrained by the Matthews, with better geometry (for > me) and much lighter wheels, even if its pavement handling is not up to > Riv's pavement handling qualities. > > On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:40 PM, panog wrote: > >> @Patrick Moore >> >> Patrick, I dont have any readily recalled studies on the subject to >> quote. I have consistently seen 32mm tires to be referred to as the optimum >> combination between comfort, speed and responsiveness for 700c rims and >> road geometry and 38mm tires for 650B rims. A few years ago I had a lengthy >> discussion on the subject with Mike Kone of Boulder Bicycle on the subject >> with the same conclusion. I also see most builders staying around the 32mm >> tire size for their sportier road frames. The Rivendell Roadeo follows the >> same principles with the 33mm JBs in contrast to the rest of the Riv line. >> I recall BQ having published the results of one of JH's tests on How Wide >> is Wide Enough (paraphrasing here!); I'm not quite sure but if I recall >> correctly above 32mm there were diminishing returns when on smooth roads (I >> hope I'm not misquoting this; I will try to find the edition when I have >> some time) as inflation pressure is reduced as the tire size (width) >> increases. >> My personal observations and resulting preferences are 28-32mm on my >> go-fast bikes, 35 on my go-nice and 50+ on my go-over everything and >> anything, all 700c wheels with 17c rims. >> >> Pano >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > > > -- > *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, > LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's > more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price > contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a road bike, > or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 > to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.* > > Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. > By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. > Other professional writing services. > http://www.resumespecialties.com/ > www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ > Patrick Moore > Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten > ** > ** > > > > -- *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a ro
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
I have to agree with Garth that "best width" for "this or that condition" is a pretty wide box. I don't agree that everything to do with wheel size and bike design is "subjective" -- meaning by this word "entirely based on an individual's particular likes and dislikes"; I do think that there are real parameters. Still, first: taste plays a huge role; what is "better" for me may not be "better" for you; and second: bike design makes a huge difference. One little example: my first, early 1995 26 wheel road custom felt best -- to me -- with 30+ mm tires; put on 22s and it was a wee bit too twitchy -- not horrible, but still so. When I had my 2 later ones made, I told Grant about this, and he questioned me closely about the smallest tire I'd use on it; I told him the 559 X 23 Turbos or Conti GPs and so on, 24" overall diameter. He so designed these 2 that they felt very stable with the skinnies, but not sluggish with the 32s. Perhaps a low trail geometry is more sensitive to wheel size and weight; I don't know. I certainly do find a 26er with light wheels more nimble than a Fargo with 800 gram rims and 800 gram tires. But the Fargo surprised me by how nimble it was on tightly winding singletrack (flat; I can handle flat singletrack; it's the steep, rutted stuff that I don't like), and I certainly don't feel constrained by the Matthews, with better geometry (for me) and much lighter wheels, even if its pavement handling is not up to Riv's pavement handling qualities. On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:40 PM, panog wrote: > @Patrick Moore > > Patrick, I dont have any readily recalled studies on the subject to quote. > I have consistently seen 32mm tires to be referred to as the optimum > combination between comfort, speed and responsiveness for 700c rims and > road geometry and 38mm tires for 650B rims. A few years ago I had a lengthy > discussion on the subject with Mike Kone of Boulder Bicycle on the subject > with the same conclusion. I also see most builders staying around the 32mm > tire size for their sportier road frames. The Rivendell Roadeo follows the > same principles with the 33mm JBs in contrast to the rest of the Riv line. > I recall BQ having published the results of one of JH's tests on How Wide > is Wide Enough (paraphrasing here!); I'm not quite sure but if I recall > correctly above 32mm there were diminishing returns when on smooth roads (I > hope I'm not misquoting this; I will try to find the edition when I have > some time) as inflation pressure is reduced as the tire size (width) > increases. > My personal observations and resulting preferences are 28-32mm on my > go-fast bikes, 35 on my go-nice and 50+ on my go-over everything and > anything, all 700c wheels with 17c rims. > > Pano > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price contract. And still more! I am offering services in trade for a road bike, or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.* Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten ** ** -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
In regards to an "best" tire width per given size, I liken to any and all "bests". These are subjective to the beholder. Just because someone claims a best does not make it true for anyone else, no matter who claims it. Boulder Bikes and Compasss are business partners, so no surprise they share preferences. It's amazing how so many "bike truths" (really just someone's preference)are repeated/adopted/live by without really finding out for oneself. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
@Patrick Moore Patrick, I dont have any readily recalled studies on the subject to quote. I have consistently seen 32mm tires to be referred to as the optimum combination between comfort, speed and responsiveness for 700c rims and road geometry and 38mm tires for 650B rims. A few years ago I had a lengthy discussion on the subject with Mike Kone of Boulder Bicycle on the subject with the same conclusion. I also see most builders staying around the 32mm tire size for their sportier road frames. The Rivendell Roadeo follows the same principles with the 33mm JBs in contrast to the rest of the Riv line. I recall BQ having published the results of one of JH's tests on How Wide is Wide Enough (paraphrasing here!); I'm not quite sure but if I recall correctly above 32mm there were diminishing returns when on smooth roads (I hope I'm not misquoting this; I will try to find the edition when I have some time) as inflation pressure is reduced as the tire size (width) increases. My personal observations and resulting preferences are 28-32mm on my go-fast bikes, 35 on my go-nice and 50+ on my go-over everything and anything, all 700c wheels with 17c rims. Pano -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
I haven’t read this whole thread, so apologies if I’m restating this, but +1 on the advantages of nice tires. I run Grand Bois or Compass tires on almost all of my bikes—they will improve the ride and performance of anything but the worst (cast iron?) wheels, at a much lower cost. Run them as wide as you can to get the added plus of greater comfort. --Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram) > On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:05 PM, GAJett wrote: > > Switched from Schwalbe Marathon 650Bx38 to the Compass LLP EL 650Bx38. Over > the same routes in back to back weeks I was 1.5 mph faster on the Compass > tires. Yeah, they're twice the cost, but would still be less expensive than > new wheelset. > Cheers! > 7 year old AHH with 190# 62 year old motor > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
Switched from Schwalbe Marathon 650Bx38 to the Compass LLP EL 650Bx38. Over the same routes in back to back weeks I was 1.5 mph faster on the Compass tires. Yeah, they're twice the cost, but would still be less expensive than new wheelset. Cheers! 7 year old AHH with 190# 62 year old motor -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
"...the 700c x 32mm combo is supposed to be the optimum for this "lively" feel..." Pano: where does this dictum come from? Can you give a source? Not a contradiction, just a question. Jan says, in effect, that tire width has no bearing on "liveliness" if weight is much the same and if suppleness is the same (he also says that certain tire widths are best for certain diameters, though the "liveliness" in this regard is wrt handling, not rolling -- and don't know if I agree with his views here). I can say that, for a given tire size, that I certainly can tell the difference in rolling resistance between tires of different sorts but of the same width, but not in tires of different widths but of the same sort, at least between 22 mms and 35 mms. Certainly, the 27-29 mm Elk Pass (extralights) seem to roll faster than the already fast feeling 22 mm 1" Turbos of yore, or recent Michelin Pro Race 4s (all 559 or 571 bsd). OTOH, I certainly can feel the *handling* difference between 22 mm and 32 mm, at least on some bikes I rode a great deal with both widths, tires being 559 Turbo and 559 X 32 Paselas, and about 40 grams between the 2 -- 200 versus 240. (Bikes: NORBA mountain bikes and my earliest Riv Road custom.) What do others think? Pano, are you thinking of the other kind of liveliness, wrt change in direction, and not rolling resistance? On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 10:47 AM, panog wrote: > I would also suggest using narrower tires to the tune of 32 or 33 mm for > the 700c wheels. Assuming the OP is on relatively smooth tarmac, the 700c x > 32mm combo is supposed to be the optimum for this "lively" feel without > sacrificing too much comfort. > > Pano > > On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 11:51:07 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: >> >> This is very true as a principle, but if John is already using Compass >> tires, even the standard model -- I take it that from his "beefy" >> qualification, it' not the extralight -- then gains from switching are >> probably going to be far less than switching from, say, one of the heavier >> Marathons. >> >> What do others find from switching from Compass's standard to extralight >> casings, with the same model of tire? >> >> I take it that we can leave suppleness out of the question here, assuming >> that the SP standard's casing isn't all that less supple than any of the EL >> casings? >> >> The Snoqualmie EL weighs 50 gr less than the S; even the Bon Jon EL is >> only 76 grams lighter. If you switched to the Stampede EL, you'd save about >> 120 grams per wheel, but I don't know if that is enough to make the bike >> feel noticeably friskier. >> >> Perhaps rims + tires will make a noticeable difference. What rims are you >> using? I'm not all that familiar with 700 c road rims, but for example, if >> you are using Rhyno Lights, say, at ~700 grams/wheel, and switched to, say, >> a Mavic M40 at 200 grams lighter, and switched from the SP standards to the >> Stampede EL -- theoretical 320-350 grams per wheel saving -- you'd feel a >> noticeable difference. >> >> But! I've found that there are all sorts of other things that make a bike >> feel "lively", and, again IME, it's not limited to frame tubing and wheel >> weight. I've found more than once that bikes with heavier tubing and >> mediocre tires somehow feel faster* than others with lighter tubing or >> better tires** and have attributed this to geometry and body position. >> >> * My former Herse had been passed on by 2 other experienced riders >> because its tubing was too heavy. I had it shod with Paselas (non-TG) or >> perhaps IRC Tandems (~29 mm) -- certainly nothing fancy. The bike was >> certainly heavier than that '73 Motobecane. But it felt faster. Ditto for >> my very early Schwinn Tempo: tank, cheap tires. I'm not denying at all that >> tires are not the principal improvement after fit and wind resistance, but >> other factors may well be in play her, given the conditions of the question >> as discussed above. >> >> FWIW, although saving 2 lb per wheel by switching from 800 gram rims and >> 800 gram tires + 200 gram tubes to road-bike-weight rims and 360 gram tires >> on the Fargo certainly made a difference, it didn't make as much difference >> as that between say the Herse and the Motobecane. (Not that the Motobecane >> was sluggish; it just didn't encourage me to gear up the way the Herse did. >> Aside: I sold the Herse because it's load carrying and handling qualities >> were not what I wanted. The ride and fit and feel was were wonderful.) >> >> ** I judge this by repeatedly finding that certain bikes are easier to >> pedal in given gears in given conditions. >> >> So: what? I dunno! I'll be interested to hear what you do. >> >> On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 1:49 AM, panog wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> In my opinion, if "lively'" is what you seek, I would look first at >>> tires and tubes, then rims. These are the primary contributors. Hubs would >>> be the very, very distant fourth. >>> >>> Hope it helps >>> >>> Pano >>> >>> --
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
I would also suggest using narrower tires to the tune of 32 or 33 mm for the 700c wheels. Assuming the OP is on relatively smooth tarmac, the 700c x 32mm combo is supposed to be the optimum for this "lively" feel without sacrificing too much comfort. Pano On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 11:51:07 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: > > This is very true as a principle, but if John is already using Compass > tires, even the standard model -- I take it that from his "beefy" > qualification, it' not the extralight -- then gains from switching are > probably going to be far less than switching from, say, one of the heavier > Marathons. > > What do others find from switching from Compass's standard to extralight > casings, with the same model of tire? > > I take it that we can leave suppleness out of the question here, assuming > that the SP standard's casing isn't all that less supple than any of the EL > casings? > > The Snoqualmie EL weighs 50 gr less than the S; even the Bon Jon EL is > only 76 grams lighter. If you switched to the Stampede EL, you'd save about > 120 grams per wheel, but I don't know if that is enough to make the bike > feel noticeably friskier. > > Perhaps rims + tires will make a noticeable difference. What rims are you > using? I'm not all that familiar with 700 c road rims, but for example, if > you are using Rhyno Lights, say, at ~700 grams/wheel, and switched to, say, > a Mavic M40 at 200 grams lighter, and switched from the SP standards to the > Stampede EL -- theoretical 320-350 grams per wheel saving -- you'd feel a > noticeable difference. > > But! I've found that there are all sorts of other things that make a bike > feel "lively", and, again IME, it's not limited to frame tubing and wheel > weight. I've found more than once that bikes with heavier tubing and > mediocre tires somehow feel faster* than others with lighter tubing or > better tires** and have attributed this to geometry and body position. > > * My former Herse had been passed on by 2 other experienced riders because > its tubing was too heavy. I had it shod with Paselas (non-TG) or perhaps > IRC Tandems (~29 mm) -- certainly nothing fancy. The bike was certainly > heavier than that '73 Motobecane. But it felt faster. Ditto for my very > early Schwinn Tempo: tank, cheap tires. I'm not denying at all that tires > are not the principal improvement after fit and wind resistance, but other > factors may well be in play her, given the conditions of the question as > discussed above. > > FWIW, although saving 2 lb per wheel by switching from 800 gram rims and > 800 gram tires + 200 gram tubes to road-bike-weight rims and 360 gram tires > on the Fargo certainly made a difference, it didn't make as much difference > as that between say the Herse and the Motobecane. (Not that the Motobecane > was sluggish; it just didn't encourage me to gear up the way the Herse did. > Aside: I sold the Herse because it's load carrying and handling qualities > were not what I wanted. The ride and fit and feel was were wonderful.) > > ** I judge this by repeatedly finding that certain bikes are easier to > pedal in given gears in given conditions. > > So: what? I dunno! I'll be interested to hear what you do. > > On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 1:49 AM, panog > > wrote: > >> >> >> In my opinion, if "lively'" is what you seek, I would look first at tires >> and tubes, then rims. These are the primary contributors. Hubs would be the >> very, very distant fourth. >> >> Hope it helps >> >> Pano >> >> -- >> > On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 11:51:07 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: > > This is very true as a principle, but if John is already using Compass > tires, even the standard model -- I take it that from his "beefy" > qualification, it' not the extralight -- then gains from switching are > probably going to be far less than switching from, say, one of the heavier > Marathons. > > What do others find from switching from Compass's standard to extralight > casings, with the same model of tire? > > I take it that we can leave suppleness out of the question here, assuming > that the SP standard's casing isn't all that less supple than any of the EL > casings? > > The Snoqualmie EL weighs 50 gr less than the S; even the Bon Jon EL is > only 76 grams lighter. If you switched to the Stampede EL, you'd save about > 120 grams per wheel, but I don't know if that is enough to make the bike > feel noticeably friskier. > > Perhaps rims + tires will make a noticeable difference. What rims are you > using? I'm not all that familiar with 700 c road rims, but for example, if > you are using Rhyno Lights, say, at ~700 grams/wheel, and switched to, say, > a Mavic M40 at 200 grams lighter, and switched from the SP standards to the > Stampede EL -- theoretical 320-350 grams per wheel saving -- you'd feel a > noticeable difference. > > But! I've found that there are all sorts of other things that make a bike > feel "lively", and,
Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
This is very true as a principle, but if John is already using Compass tires, even the standard model -- I take it that from his "beefy" qualification, it' not the extralight -- then gains from switching are probably going to be far less than switching from, say, one of the heavier Marathons. What do others find from switching from Compass's standard to extralight casings, with the same model of tire? I take it that we can leave suppleness out of the question here, assuming that the SP standard's casing isn't all that less supple than any of the EL casings? The Snoqualmie EL weighs 50 gr less than the S; even the Bon Jon EL is only 76 grams lighter. If you switched to the Stampede EL, you'd save about 120 grams per wheel, but I don't know if that is enough to make the bike feel noticeably friskier. Perhaps rims + tires will make a noticeable difference. What rims are you using? I'm not all that familiar with 700 c road rims, but for example, if you are using Rhyno Lights, say, at ~700 grams/wheel, and switched to, say, a Mavic M40 at 200 grams lighter, and switched from the SP standards to the Stampede EL -- theoretical 320-350 grams per wheel saving -- you'd feel a noticeable difference. But! I've found that there are all sorts of other things that make a bike feel "lively", and, again IME, it's not limited to frame tubing and wheel weight. I've found more than once that bikes with heavier tubing and mediocre tires somehow feel faster* than others with lighter tubing or better tires** and have attributed this to geometry and body position. * My former Herse had been passed on by 2 other experienced riders because its tubing was too heavy. I had it shod with Paselas (non-TG) or perhaps IRC Tandems (~29 mm) -- certainly nothing fancy. The bike was certainly heavier than that '73 Motobecane. But it felt faster. Ditto for my very early Schwinn Tempo: tank, cheap tires. I'm not denying at all that tires are not the principal improvement after fit and wind resistance, but other factors may well be in play her, given the conditions of the question as discussed above. FWIW, although saving 2 lb per wheel by switching from 800 gram rims and 800 gram tires + 200 gram tubes to road-bike-weight rims and 360 gram tires on the Fargo certainly made a difference, it didn't make as much difference as that between say the Herse and the Motobecane. (Not that the Motobecane was sluggish; it just didn't encourage me to gear up the way the Herse did. Aside: I sold the Herse because it's load carrying and handling qualities were not what I wanted. The ride and fit and feel was were wonderful.) ** I judge this by repeatedly finding that certain bikes are easier to pedal in given gears in given conditions. So: what? I dunno! I'll be interested to hear what you do. On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 1:49 AM, panog wrote: > > > In my opinion, if "lively'" is what you seek, I would look first at tires > and tubes, then rims. These are the primary contributors. Hubs would be the > very, very distant fourth. > > Hope it helps > > Pano > > -- > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
I have had excellent results with H+Son Archetype and TB-14 (box section) rims. Another excellent, although significantly pricier, choice is the HED C2 Belgium and also the tubeless-ready HED Belgium Plus. The HED Belgium Plus is wider (internal width) than the rest although all of them are wide enough for the tire size you mentioned. If you want to run your SPs tubeless the HED Plus is the only tubeless-ready rim from the bunch. All of these rims run are in the 460-480 gram range compared to the Atlas's 620 grams. Hub wise there are some weight savings to be realized although the $/gram-saved justification is arguably in need of one's subjective evaluation. If you decide going down that route the cartridge bearings White Industries MI5 is an excellent choice (not just on weight savings) and will save you about 130 grams over the more widely used cup and cone Shimano LX. In my opinion, if "lively'" is what you seek, I would look first at tires and tubes, then rims. These are the primary contributors. Hubs would be the very, very distant fourth. Hope it helps Pano -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?
Hi folks, In a recent thread that I cannot find, someone mentioned giving his or her Atlantis a bit more pep with a lighter wheelset. I like that idea! I'm currently running velocity Atlas wheels with Snoqualmie Pass tires. This is perfect for 85% of the riding I do, but I'd love to have a second set for riding with my friends. I don't need racing wheels--just something a bit less beefy that still fits a 35 or 38 mm tire. Not expecting a magic bullet, btw. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
