[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
Marc, The Oatley board does exactly what we have been discussing. I don't have any direct experience with the kit but I know Frank built a couple and had issues with them. Maybe he might elaborate. Steve --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] The future of making tank parts
I don't normally send out random stuff but I saw this video and was astounded at this technology. If you have the time (7 minutes?), the examples they show at the end are incredible. Tom http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/498ebd00a62edaa0/47fe70d4555df05a/9e46bd46/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c81 --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Shaftloc
Cool, but not cheap :( Derek On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 9:03 AM, Cold comfort gfcr...@hotmail.com wrote: That's cool. Greg On Mar 25, 4:50 pm, Michael Clark ironnerd...@gmail.com wrote: Saw an ad for this in a robot magazine called Robot Magazine: http://www.asymmetricfasteners.com/shaftloc.html --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Shaftloc
I didn't see any prices, how much are they? Greg On Mar 26, 11:04 am, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: Cool, but not cheap :( Derek On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 9:03 AM, Cold comfort gfcr...@hotmail.com wrote: That's cool. Greg On Mar 25, 4:50 pm, Michael Clark ironnerd...@gmail.com wrote: Saw an ad for this in a robot magazine called Robot Magazine: http://www.asymmetricfasteners.com/shaftloc.html- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes
Awesome footage. Can't wait to get my turret done. -Fred --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
I tried using the Oatley kits for the second revision RocketMan's steering. I also noticed the overshoot that Frank mentioned below. The main problem I had with them was that the position would start to 'drift' after a few minutes of operation. The device would drive the motor fully left or right and wouldn't go the other direction. Worse, it would keep the drive current on. I smoked several sets of driver FETs and burned up two Oatley circuit boards before I stopped trying. I was on the upper end of the specified load range (2 amps I think). I suspected maybe the heat was causing the driver FETs to leak and that's what was causing the drift. I added heat sinks and a small fan, but it didn't seem to make a difference. For steering, RocketMan ended up with a ServoCity servo gear box, a beefy servo, and a home-made mongo servo saver. I thought the steering was acceptable, but a little slow. We'll see how Tom feels about it :) My mechanical steering linkages and front suspension were probably the biggest steering impediments after I changed to the gearbox. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:32 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack Steve Tyng wrote: The Oatley board does exactly what we have been discussing. I don't have any direct experience with the kit but I know Frank built a couple and had issues with them. Maybe he might elaborate. The only issues that I had during my testing was that the controller is twitchy if you have a sloppy pot and/or the motor speed is not adjusted properly. That is, it doesn't seem to account properly for the momentum of the motor and load when moving to a new position. The motor momentum caused it to overshoot the mark, at which point the controller tries to reverse direction. But, if there's a little sloppiness in the pot, then it overshoots in the other direction or just hums while it stays in the same place. So, the lesson is: use a high-quality pot when trying to build a heavy-duty servo. If possible, use an accurate multi-turn pot and gear it accordingly to the drive shaft. Doug, on the other hand, had lots more issues with them when he tested them ... primarily related to working load, if I recall, but he can elaborate better. Frank P. PS. It took quite a few weeks to get the Oatley boards from down-under because he sent them via regular snail-mail. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Shaftloc
Is there a reason you don't just put a new shaft in it? Has anyone opened up the gearbox to look at that option? With only a 1/2 of griping surface, I probably wouldn't use one of the Shaftloc or Trantorque keyless bushings. They require more than 1/2 of length to grip onto in the 1/2 bore size. The whole point of keyless bushings is that they grip the shaft by applying pressure to the shaft and to the componant. Without enough shaft length to push on, it would probably just deform the keyless bushing. Something like a Lovejoy shaft coupler might work better for you to extend the shaft. Derek On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 12:37 PM, AES andyman61...@yahoo.com wrote: I wonder if this would be the answer to the short shaft on the NPC 2212 clone? -- *From:* Cold comfort gfcr...@hotmail.com *To:* R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com *Sent:* Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:03:11 AM *Subject:* [TANKS] Re: Shaftloc That's cool. Greg On Mar 25, 4:50 pm, Michael Clark ironnerd...@gmail.com wrote: Saw an ad for this in a robot magazine called Robot Magazine: http://www.asymmetricfasteners.com/shaftloc.html --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes
Last September Chris. Thanks guys. I'll be working on some of the other clips. Stay tuned. John On Mar 26, 1:13 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: when was this video taken? Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **Great Deals on Dell 15 Laptops - Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219799606x1201361003/aol?red... leclick.net%2Fclk%3B213153745%3B34689725%3Bo) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: new progress
Nicely done Neil. Great vehicle choice. Very, how you say, EU compatible? Czech chassis, Russian 76mm and German crew. Excellent. Can't wait to see it flying around the fields of southern England. John On Mar 24, 6:53 pm, funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote: I have a little progress I wish to share with the group, I’ve been seeing a lot of tanks close to designation stage recently ,some very impressive stuff too, so I have been pushing hard on my new tank and I’ve hit a milestone tonight ,I have one spinning track. I’m still a long way off completion and some things are a little thrown together just to get to this stage but I just fancied a little fanfare.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-O4Ix9H00Y Im very confident this little rascal will be involved in battles later this summer. After filming I realised I used a very old battery that only requires a trip to the recycling depo . I expect better results from a fresh battery. Neil R --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] steel rod suspension
who made their suspension using (spring?) steel? Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.com. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220474599x1201401934/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.creditreport.com%3Fsrc%3Daolemail%26kwd%3Dmlftrtextlin k) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] track tension
i was just talking to someone about the tension of the tracks while running over things. i know it has been said in the past that the idler wheel should be sprung somehow to take up slack in the tracks as to prevent the tracks from getting too slack and possibly throwing themselves. but as i was talking to the person it occurred to me that i shouldn't have really any track slack as my road wheels are to scale and that the tracks will be riding over the tops of the road wheels, so as the tank rides over an object, the track goes up, the wheel goes up and hen the track (on top) goes up (taking out most of the slack). the only place i can see there being and exception to this would be the lead and trailing sets of road wheels. anyone wish to confirm or debate my thought as to being right or wrong? on another note, i just got my stainless steel button heads screws/bolts and washers today and they look nice, but i'll have to order more next week as i shorted myself about 100 screws/bolts, but for 250 button heads and 300 washers, with shipping, it was just over $37.00 - about $.08 cents each Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.com. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220474599x1201401934/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.creditreport.com%3Fsrc%3Daolemail%26kwd%3Dmlftrtextlin k) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: track tension
I don't know of anyone who has a sprung rear idler with a designated tank, but of course my recollection may be flawed. I can also say that on all of the real tanks I've worked on (M60, M41, M42, Sherman, M3 Halftrack), none have a sprung rear idler. Track tension is static - adjustable, but static. If the tracks are too loose, they will come off. If they are too tight, they put undue stress on the motors and limit suspension travel. I run the attachment chain tracks pretty loose, but they will not come off due to the lack of lateral movement. That lack of movement comes from the shear mass of the chain and the fact that the links make really effective guide teeth. I know they don't move laterally much because there is only about 1/16 of clearance between the track pads and hull. I have yet to loose any paint from the hull due to the tracks rubbing on the hull. Loose tracks can work if they aren't given any chance to move side to side, but they will have more of a chance of jumping sprocket teeth. Lateral movement can be diminished by good guide teeth or shear stiffness of the track or both. I made the front and rear road wheels stiffer for a number of reasons: keeps the track from pulling the front and rear suspension down as is passes by, keeps the tank from bobbing too much during starts and stops, and helps in climbing by presenting more track surface area to climb over obsticles. These are just my experiences with my tracks. Derek On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 11:24 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: i was just talking to someone about the tension of the tracks while running over things. i know it has been said in the past that the idler wheel should be sprung somehow to take up slack in the tracks as to prevent the tracks from getting too slack and possibly throwing themselves. but as i was talking to the person it occurred to me that i shouldn't have really any track slack as my road wheels are to scale and that the tracks will be riding over the tops of the road wheels, so as the tank rides over an object, the track goes up, the wheel goes up and hen the track (on top) goes up (taking out most of the slack). the only place i can see there being and exception to this would be the lead and trailing sets of road wheels. anyone wish to confirm or debate my thought as to being right or wrong? on another note, i just got my stainless steel button heads screws/bolts and washers today and they look nice, but i'll have to order more next week as i shorted myself about 100 screws/bolts, but for 250 button heads and 300 washers, with shipping, it was just over $37.00 - about $.08 cents each Chris, Odyssey Slipways http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html -- *Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.comhttp://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220474599x1201401934/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.creditreport.com%3Fsrc%3Daolemail%26kwd%3Dmlftrtextlink .* --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] track tension
Here is my take on this, Chris. I haven't completed a tank yet and I'm not sure how all the completed vehicles have dealt with this. I am, however a longtime student of tank suspensions (full scale). I can't think of a single design that required the idler to be spring loaded. There DOES need to be some provision for adjustment. A spring might be handy in a fixed (unsprung) suspension to automatically adjust for stretch or wear. In a actual sprung suspension, the suspension springs would act as a sort of adjustment as the track base will only deform to a limited extent. However, in a simulated suspension system, such a device might be useful (I'm looking at such a system for my Voroshilovets). Let me explain. The track base (the area of ground contact) is a given length on a flat surface. If the track is presented a bump, the running track length at the base is increased. This increase must be made up from somewhere. In an actual suspension system, this would cause the vehicle to ride a bit closer to the ground as the other suspension members would give to allow the additional base length. In a simulated suspension, there are no suspension members to make up the difference. Paul H. - Original Message - From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:24 AM Subject: [TANKS] track tension i was just talking to someone about the tension of the tracks while running over things. i know it has been said in the past that the idler wheel should be sprung somehow to take up slack in the tracks as to prevent the tracks from getting too slack and possibly throwing themselves. but as i was talking to the person it occurred to me that i shouldn't have really any track slack as my road wheels are to scale and that the tracks will be riding over the tops of the road wheels, so as the tank rides over an object, the track goes up, the wheel goes up and hen the track (on top) goes up (taking out most of the slack). the only place i can see there being and exception to this would be the lead and trailing sets of road wheels. anyone wish to confirm or debate my thought as to being right or wrong? on another note, i just got my stainless steel button heads screws/bolts and washers today and they look nice, but i'll have to order more next week as i shorted myself about 100 screws/bolts, but for 250 button heads and 300 washers, with shipping, it was just over $37.00 - about $.08 cents each Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.com. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
