Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

2015-03-24 Thread isaac goldman
Bondo == ???

On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 6:19 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Dowel == Boring

 Carbon Fiber == Sexy


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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

2015-03-24 Thread Mike Lyons
I made something very similar, but for the broad plane surfaces I made ribs 
using thin dowel covered with a couple of layers of cloth.  I borrowed this 
technique from kayaks where (at least many years ago) it was common to lay 
a piece of hose covered in cloth to form the keel.

On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 10:42:55 AM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

 ... If you think flexing will be a problem on a flat section (like the 
 top), use 
 carbon fiber cloth in those areas to stiffen them. 

... 

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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question = PVA spray

2015-03-24 Thread Mike Lyons
I was curious about PVA spray and stumbled across this: 
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/Uploads/PVAhairspray.pdf
Use at your own risk.

On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 10:42:55 AM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

 ... Finally, spray two  light coats of PVA on the surface ...

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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

2015-03-24 Thread Frank Pittelli

Dowel == Boring

Carbon Fiber == Sexy

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RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

2015-03-24 Thread Doug Conn
Thanks, Frank. Fiberglass 101 is the level of instruction I need.

Stu, yours is a good idea, too. There are some thin vertical 'skirts' around 
the bottom of the VPX-5000 and I'm not sure they'll take much abuse without 
being glassed over. Still, I already have both the 'positive' upper hull (the 
one I was going to glass over) and now the 'negative' upper hull (for the 
mold). I didn't have anything to do with the positive piece, so I went ahead 
and glassed the inside. Maybe it will give a me spare hull. At the very least I 
got some practice with layup before I make the molded hull.

  - Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 1:06 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

You don't wait any time between layers.

1) Spread resin on the mold

2) Lay in the first layer of mat.  Stipple with brush or use a resin roller to 
push the mat into the resin until it is all wet.

3) Lay in the second layer of mat.  Use brush or roller to push into first 
layer.  Brush on some additional resin as need (sparingly) to fully wet second 
layer.

4) Lay in the final layer of cloth.  Use brush or roller to push into the 
second layer.  You shouldn't need any additional resin for the last layer, but 
brush in more if necessary.

In general, you want to use as little resin as possible to wet out the 
mat/cloth.  Resin doesn't add any strength, just weight and bulk. Use firm 
pressure on the roller to push mat/cloth through the resin to remove bubbles 
and ensure full saturation.

The most important thing is to remember that polyester resin cures much faster 
in the cup than on a flat surface.  It's always better to mix a couple small 
batches then one large batch.  At room temperature, it takes a good half-hour 
before the resin in the mold will start to cure enough to cause problems, so 
you've got time to mix, lay up and roll each layer.  Don't rush, but don't 
spend too much time on each layer. 
Practice makes perfect.

Always cut all of the mat/cloth pieces that you'll need before mixing any 
resin. Set the pieces in the dry mold and make sure they cover all the flat 
surfaces.  Leave about an inch extra over the edges of the mold, no more, no 
less.  Too much or too little excess will cause problems.  Also, don't try to 
use one piece to go around inside or outside corners.  Cut separate pieces that 
meet in the corner.  When you brush/roll the layer the fibers will meet in the 
corner and form a nice edge.  Always brush/roll towards the corner.  The 
mat/cloth moves and stretches in the direction of pressure.

Some people lay a wet putty of resin and a filler (loose fibers, sawdust, 
kevlar pulp, etc) to reinforce the corner.  But, since the putty is 
concentrated it cures faster then the straight panels, so you have to lay up 
mat/cloth over the puttied corners fast enough to prevent them curing too 
early.  You probably won't need putty for your turret corners because they are 
fairly shallow, but it's a technique you'll want to learn for more complicated 
molds. Practice makes perfect.

On 3/22/2015 10:26 PM, Doug Conn wrote:
 How long should I wait in between successive layers of cloth ? I do 
 not want the first layer to completely cure before adding the next, 
 right ?

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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

2015-03-24 Thread Frank Pittelli

Bondo == Inevitable

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