Re: [TANKS] Torsion spring making

2016-09-26 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
 After digging out SV15 and measuring the wire, it has 5/32" wire which 
actually comes out to 3.9 mm.  Looks like your call for 4mm wire is spot on.  :)
 The SV15 chassis was originally for a 1/6 scale M113.  :)
Mike


  From: taranaki tanker 
 To: R/C Tank Combat  
 Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 2:58 AM
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Torsion spring making
   
Hey thanks for the info mate. What would be a good size wire to use on a 1/6th 
m113 fsv? Something about 2-3 mm be good enough? Am a bit limited on the sizes 
I can get hold of for a decent price, 1,8 meters for$15 nz 

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Re: [TANKS] Torsion spring making

2016-09-25 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
4mm is pretty thick.  I used about that when making arms for a 1/6 Merkava and 
it turned out to be way too stiff.  I could stand in the tank (230 pounds) and 
the suspension would barely deflect.  SV015 used thinner wire which turned out 
to be about right for a 50 pound tank.
The wire I used was hobby shop music wire for airplanes.  They were not heated 
or annealed before bending.  I did break a couple yet most bends were just 
fine.  Each wire was clamped in a vice and hammered over to bend.  If I was 
doing it today, I would invest in a quality wire bender and use more radius to 
keep the wire from kinking at the bend.

For a simple suspension system, it works very well.  It is not scale, but it 
works amazingly well.  :)
Mike M

  From: taranaki tanker 
 To: R/C Tank Combat  
 Sent: Friday, September 23, 2016 8:52 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Torsion spring making
   
Was wondering if anyone has an idea for bending up 4mm spring wire to make 
torsion bars like Mike Magnus did for the SV015 spartan. Tried to bend one into 
shape and it broke on the the second bend. Would spot annealing with a gas 
torch help. 




   

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Successor of Talon

2015-10-11 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
 Not quite true.  The R/C car world has had brushless controllers for years 
that also can power brushed motors.  It is all in the esc programming plus some 
internal changes.
Mike M



  From: Derek Engelhaupt 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, October 9, 2015 12:09 PM
 Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Successor of Talon
   
I'm assuming they won't work because a brushless ESC won't work with the 
brushed motors you are using in the tanks.  

On Oct 9, 2015 11:20 AM, "Loic"  wrote:

Steve, so I cannot use these ESC as is? Why would “Brushless be bad for our 
application?I’ve ordered a few of these controller from your link, I’ve also 
inquired from the company in Australia. I hope I get the PWM input on these 
(the photo did not cover the connectors), because the Talon SRX does not have 
the right input for the controller wire, and they have a full page of how to 
install the PWM wire… this is crazy that they have another input Loic From: 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
Of TyngTech
Sent: Friday, October 9, 2015 8:12 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Successor of Talon This company is taking Turnigy 85A 
brushless controllers and modding them for brushed.  It involves reflashing 
with new code and removing one of the motor leads. 
http://botbitz.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=52 The 
stock controller from HK: 
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10331__Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_85A_w_5A_SBEC.html
 I'd consider finding the OEM of the product and see if they would produce 
brushed versions for you.  The code to do so is open source and freely 
available. ST

On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 1:02:09 PM UTC-4, Loic atFOA wrote: Hi Tankers,

As a vendor of 1/6th scale tanks, I'm now out of my entire inventory of Talon 
SR. This ESC was very sturdy and I believe that I had only ONE that failed (out 
of 100+)

Now I'm in discussion with "Cross the Road Electronics", and the successor of 
the Talon SR is the Talon SRX. I guess it comes with lots more "bells and 
whistle", which I don't really care for since the Talon SR was doing a great job
My issue is PRICING: The new Talon SRX is $90. 50% increase cost on the ESC. 

Also, the discounts of the electronics world are abysmal. 

Do any of you have "other options"? I'm not interested building one. I just 
want a product OFF THE SHELF.
I'm in urgent need of good, strong ESC for 24V applications - 100A peak 
operation (I have about 15 ESC required for current sales)

Please help me!

NOTE: the Victor is not applicable. It will only take a maximum voltage of 16V.

Since I got the floor, let me show you a pic of a current project: I'm building 
an AAV-7 for an engineering firm contracting with the Army. It has a Fiberglass 
body, no suspension, but two jet propulsion on the side. I will post a video of 
its workings in the water-- 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

2015-02-28 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
the S-tanks motors didn't burn up.  They did severely overheat though due to 
too high gear ratio, running at partial throttle settings, and basically using 
the wrong motor for the gear ratio.  

If building the S-tank again, I would probably ise the sprocketed geared motors 
Steve found and add a sprocket to the drive hub to reduce rpm even more to the 
tracks.  That would let the motor run at full throttle and multiply the torque 
to the tracks.
Mike

  From: Doug Conn 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 10:37 PM
 Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
>> drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side

Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has 
anybody done it ?

Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an 
R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. 
Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you 
feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact.

    - Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this 
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the 
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along 
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end 
too.  Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed.  The motor even 
worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;).

Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

2015-02-26 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox.  Onto those,I 
welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts.   The sprocket got 
three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified hub washer.  

At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the sideways 
pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so far.
Mike M

  From: "srwh7...@gmail.com" 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual 
motors. 

Thx.
Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

2015-02-19 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
Nice find Steve.  I would have used those in the s-tank.
The S-tank starter motor setup did work, but the rpm was 400% more than needed. 
 To slow the tank down, I had to run the motors on 12v and at 20 - 25% 
throttle.  That made the motors work inefficiently hard and build up huge 
amounts of heat.  By the end of the last battle, the motors overheated.
 My fix is to eventually tank the starter motors apart, check the shaft size, 
and buy some large sized outrunners with more appropriate rpm per volts as well 
as for 24v operation.
Mike M

  From: TyngTech 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 3:18 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project.  TNC 
Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch.  
Their also cheap at $18 each.
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=214&product_id=531


ST

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote:
Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will 
investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be 
directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain 
sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good 
local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea.

Stewart
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Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries

2015-01-31 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
Back in the day the serious RC car racers stored NiMH cells in the freezer.  
The idea was to make sure the cell was as cold as possible to pack in capacity 
before the charging process raised the internal cell temperature.  The theory 
was that a cold cell had less internal resistance than a warm/hot cell.
 Since battery life was not a factor, we never gave any thought to extending 
the cell life.  We replaced all our batteries yearly anyway to stay competitive.
Mike M

  From: Jason 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 9:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries
   
Never heard of such a thing

If true I wonder at what cost the extended life comes... Reduced output 
voltage, decreased capacity etc?Sent via BlackBerry from T-MobileFrom:  
"OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat" Sender:  
rctankcombat@googlegroups.comDate: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 21:51:46 -0500To: 
ReplyTo:  rctankcombat@googlegroups.comSubject: 
[TANKS] freezing your batteries
i keep forgetting to post about this the other day on the news on Money Talks 
they were talking about how freezing your metal/nickel (or something) batteries 
when you first get them (new) it will increase their life span by as much as 
2x's. anyone else know or heard about this? just thought it might something of 
interest to those that use them chris-- 
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Re: [TANKS] Time to get ready

2014-07-28 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
 
 A couple quick stories about the S-Tank during that weekend ...
 
 While the S-Tank was backing full speed (which is pretty quick), Will M made a 
great medium long range shot to plug the S-tank's side.  He immediately started 
crowing, "I hit it!  I hit that thing!"  lol.
 
 After the Tiger's track broke, I saw the Cromwell moving up behind the Tiger.  
Trying to save my teammate, I moved the S-tank between the two tanks and facing 
the Cromwell ... so the Cromwell fired over top of the S-tank to take out the 
Tiger.  :P
 
Mike M
 


 From: loic Anthian 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Time to get ready
  


Loved the video John. I posted it on FOA Facebook page to get some comments 
from our customers, I hope it’s OK.
 
There seem to have lots of assets at this 2012 battle. And that Swedish S-Tank 
looks … “wicked awesome”! That low profile probably made it difficult to hit 
(unless there is a charge at point blank by the Tyng Cromwell!!)
 
There should be points for “ramming”…
 
Loic
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Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project

2014-05-28 Thread 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat
P-Mix is short for "programmable mixing" which allows the user to slave any 
channel to a second channel.  Usually the p-mix can set the type of interaction 
(one way or two way between channels), the rate of mixing, and sometimes 
exponential rate of mixing between the channels.
 
V-tail is a pre-set mixing between two channels, usually the rudder and 
elevator channels.  Dual aileron mix is another preset mix between the aileron 
channel and channel 6.
 
I usually use the p-mix on a tank to combine the aileron channel with the 
elevator channel for a single stick control of movement.  
 
Hope this helped.  :)
 
Mike M
  


 From: Frank Pittelli 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: M4A3 75mm Build Project
  

Sorry, but I don't have any experience with the DX6 and I'm not sure 
what "P-mixes" do or the specifics of the V-tail mixing.  Perhaps 
someone who has used that radio can provide more details.

On 5/23/2014 3:37 AM, S.Schramm wrote:
> In the piece quoted below you talk about tank style channel mixing. I
> own a spektrum DX6i, and i found some specs regarding mixing:
> #
> # Compatible with any existing DSM & DSM2 receivers
> # Airplane Programming Features: Flaps, P-mixes, Dual aileron, V-tail,
> Delta, Differential
> # Heli Programming Features: Gyro adjust, Graphic throttle curve, Graphic
> pitch curve, P-mixes, Revo mix, Swash type (Normal, and CCPM 120)
> Can you tell from the specs if it has the mixing feature or not ?

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