Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Nice little device (provided it can be found at a reasonable price) that eliminates a couple of hassles associated with mounting sprockets on shafts. On 8/10/2013 10:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote: Isaac, When I had a set of EV Warrior motors, I bought some Fenner Trantorque keyless bushings to mount my drive sprockets to the 8mm shaft. The 5/16 version actually is well within tolerance for use with an 8mm shaft. The keyless bushings don't mar the shaft at all or require any thing going through the shaft. I found mine on Ebay for like $5/per bushing, but they are normally like $20/per if bought at retail price. I do have some left over that are still in the factory packaging if you want to give them a shot. I'd let them go for what I paid plus shipping. The issue of using the 8mm bushing from Fenner as opposed the the 5/16 bushing is that you would then need metric sprockets which are hard to find to fit over the 8mm keyless bushing. The keyless bushings cinch down on the shaft while pushing out on the sprocket mounted over them. No keyway or set screws are used. Using the standard 5/16 size on the 8mm shaft means that normal standard bore sprockets can be used (in this case 3/4). I got lucky and found some small 3/4 bore sprockets (like 10 tooth and no hub) in standard 35 pitch that fit right over them. I sold the motors, connector pigtails, EV mounts, sprockets, a set of bushings, and the sprockets to someone here on the list a while back because I didn't want to deal with creating a reduction for them. Here's what the keyless bushings look like: http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/?s=ZnwyMzE4 I use them for my drive sprockets to mount the 60 pitch sprockets to my 5/8 main drive shafts. You can see the gold colored keyless bushings on the rear drive axles (of course those are much larger than the ones I used on my EV Warrior motors): On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:02 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com mailto:panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type all that up. Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good to know im on the right track. On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com mailto:steve...@gmail.com wrote: As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned! EVW's at 24 volts are special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in your technical prowess to tame! Steve Tyng Advice in no particular order: * These motors are timed CW or CCW. Have a matched set or re-time as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm * Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps: http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg * Review the T040 Cromwell build log: http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi * If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your controller. * Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller. * Build STRONG motor mounts * Build a STRONGER transmission * You will need a PWM controller. Don't even think of using the old style on/off TriPact controllers * A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me going on 8 years * Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets. Use a lathe for boring if you can * You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling * A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a set of 18AH SLA's. * A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on fresh SLA's * Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will fail. Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your drive-train design * At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train before they stall Good luck! On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to
[TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned! EVW's at 24 volts are special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in your technical prowess to tame! Steve Tyng Advice in no particular order: - These motors are timed CW or CCW. Have a matched set or re-time as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm - Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps: http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg - Review the T040 Cromwell build log: http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi - If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your controller. - Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller. - Build STRONG motor mounts - Build a STRONGER transmission - You will need a PWM controller. Don't even think of using the old style on/off TriPact controllers - A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me going on 8 years - Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets. Use a lathe for boring if you can - You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling - A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a set of 18AH SLA's. - A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on fresh SLA's - Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will fail. Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your drive-train design - At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train before they stall Good luck! On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type all that up. Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good to know im on the right track. On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote: As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned! EVW's at 24 volts are special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in your technical prowess to tame! Steve Tyng Advice in no particular order: - These motors are timed CW or CCW. Have a matched set or re-time as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm - Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps: http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg - Review the T040 Cromwell build log: http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi - If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your controller. - Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller. - Build STRONG motor mounts - Build a STRONGER transmission - You will need a PWM controller. Don't even think of using the old style on/off TriPact controllers - A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me going on 8 years - Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets. Use a lathe for boring if you can - You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling - A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a set of 18AH SLA's. - A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on fresh SLA's - Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will fail. Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your drive-train design - At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train before they stall Good luck! On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Forgot to mention, they can be loosened and tightened as many times as you need to. If the sprocket is not where you want it you simply loosen the bushing, slide the sprocket/bushing where you want it, and tighten it back down. I've never had mine slip being used to hold my drive sprockets in place and those carbon steel tracks are heavy as hell (like 20lbs each). Derek On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 9:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: Isaac, When I had a set of EV Warrior motors, I bought some Fenner Trantorque keyless bushings to mount my drive sprockets to the 8mm shaft. The 5/16 version actually is well within tolerance for use with an 8mm shaft. The keyless bushings don't mar the shaft at all or require any thing going through the shaft. I found mine on Ebay for like $5/per bushing, but they are normally like $20/per if bought at retail price. I do have some left over that are still in the factory packaging if you want to give them a shot. I'd let them go for what I paid plus shipping. The issue of using the 8mm bushing from Fenner as opposed the the 5/16 bushing is that you would then need metric sprockets which are hard to find to fit over the 8mm keyless bushing. The keyless bushings cinch down on the shaft while pushing out on the sprocket mounted over them. No keyway or set screws are used. Using the standard 5/16 size on the 8mm shaft means that normal standard bore sprockets can be used (in this case 3/4). I got lucky and found some small 3/4 bore sprockets (like 10 tooth and no hub) in standard 35 pitch that fit right over them. I sold the motors, connector pigtails, EV mounts, sprockets, a set of bushings, and the sprockets to someone here on the list a while back because I didn't want to deal with creating a reduction for them. Here's what the keyless bushings look like: http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/?s=ZnwyMzE4 I use them for my drive sprockets to mount the 60 pitch sprockets to my 5/8 main drive shafts. You can see the gold colored keyless bushings on the rear drive axles (of course those are much larger than the ones I used on my EV Warrior motors): On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:02 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type all that up. Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good to know im on the right track. On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote: As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned! EVW's at 24 volts are special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in your technical prowess to tame! Steve Tyng Advice in no particular order: - These motors are timed CW or CCW. Have a matched set or re-time as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm - Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps: http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg - Review the T040 Cromwell build log: http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi - If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your controller. - Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller. - Build STRONG motor mounts - Build a STRONGER transmission - You will need a PWM controller. Don't even think of using the old style on/off TriPact controllers - A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me going on 8 years - Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets. Use a lathe for boring if you can - You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling - A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a set of 18AH SLA's. - A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on fresh SLA's - Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will fail. Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your drive-train design - At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train before they stall Good luck! On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get by with 12awg though I bet. Mike B On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
^^Thats what i had figured. I calculated 8 AWG as the best choice, but wanted to confirm with what other people are using On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.comwrote: Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get by with 12awg though I bet. Mike B On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message,
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
And the point is if your fuses are set to 50A and your fuses do their job then the wire doesn't become your fuse. :) Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2013, at 2:19 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: ^^Thats what i had figured. I calculated 8 AWG as the best choice, but wanted to confirm with what other people are using On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.com wrote: Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get by with 12awg though I bet. Mike B On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
My motor driver mosfets can handle 175 amps at 75 degrees C, so my main concern is burning a wire; im gonna set my fuses on the high side... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 3:33 PM, Derek ENGELHAUPT tan...@gmail.com wrote: And the point is if your fuses are set to 50A and your fuses do their job then the wire doesn't become your fuse. :) Sent from my iPhone On Aug 9, 2013, at 2:19 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: ^^Thats what i had figured. I calculated 8 AWG as the best choice, but wanted to confirm with what other people are using On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.comwrote: Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get by with 12awg though I bet. Mike B On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use... On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote: Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only
[TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall. My tracks are steel so they would slip some. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like they still have the connectors in stock: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them. The fuses you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use. Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors. I think I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller. Stall current would be if you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep pushing the motors full throttle. At that point they would stall and be pulling upwards of 100A. At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors and my controllers. Derek On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com wrote: Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts. Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors? On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Hi all, I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing. Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit of looking on-line, and have come to the conclusion I have no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least 500-600 watts? Thanks in advance, Isaac -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; 350W is strong enough for a clone of T005 Razorama for $55 http://www.razorama.com/razor-dirt-quad-motor.html They will ship to Canada. Drawings at www.anvilus.com Frank can bore 35P sprockets to fit the 11mm shafts. Joe -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors
Wow thanks for the quick responses everyone. I really appreciate it. Im glad 350 watts is enough, and thanks everyone for your help. On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:42 AM, Joe Sommer anvil...@comcast.net wrote: On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote: Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; 350W is strong enough for a clone of T005 Razorama for $55 http://www.razorama.com/razor-dirt-quad-motor.html They will ship to Canada. Drawings at www.anvilus.com Frank can bore 35P sprockets to fit the 11mm shafts. Joe -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
