Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

2015-03-31 Thread Mike Lyons
You want Small Frys with that?
(As the engineering graduate said)


On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 7:17:59 AM UTC-4, Joe Sommer wrote:

 Only a second hull?  I am ready to order ten and flood the battlefield
 with Small Fry clones. 


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Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

2015-03-29 Thread Joe Sommer


On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:44:37 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

 My mold is re-usable with a little repair. I'll try putty in the corners 
 if I do a second hull. Thanks, Frank. 

 Only a second hull?  I am ready to order ten and flood the battlefield
with Small Fry clones. 

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Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

2015-03-28 Thread Frank Pittelli
I can assure you that your first-time result is *FAR* better than mine 
(for which no pictures will ever be found on the Internet ;-)  Good job.


Those corner voids are usually not caused by improper rolling, they are 
usually caused by the material/resin pulling away from the corner 
because of surface tension during the curing process.  That's where an 
initial bead of epoxy and filler (glass fibers, micro-balloons, wood 
flour, saw dust, kevlar pulp, etc) is used.  Mix the putty to a 
consistency of a creamy peanut butter. Just put a small bead of putty in 
the corner after spreading the initial coat of epoxy on the mold, but 
before laying in the first layer of mat.  The putty will squeeze out as 
you roll the mat in, but it will always fill the corner, producing a 
sweet edge when you pull the part out of the mold.  I use kevlar pulp 
almost exclusively for that purpose, because it yields a rock-hard, 
extremely durable corner.  Don't take too long spreading the putty and 
laying the first layer, because the putty cures faster than resin by itself.


With regards to filling the voids.  If you used epoxy resin for the 
molded part, then just create a putty from the same epoxy resin using a 
filler (see list above).  Epoxy always sticks to itself.  If you used 
molding polyester resin (which does *not* include wax), then both 
epoxy and polyester putty will work fine for the filler.  If you used 
standard polyester resin (the stuff from auto parts or marine stores) 
it contains a wax to help it cure. So, you'll need to rough sand the 
void to remove the wax layer before filling will either epoxy or 
polyester putty.  (FYI: Bondo is a polyester putty).  When making your 
own putty, mix it to a consistency of a stiff peanut butter.


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RE: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

2015-03-28 Thread Doug Conn
My mold is re-usable with a little repair. I'll try putty in the corners if I 
do a second hull. Thanks, Frank.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 11:42 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

I can assure you that your first-time result is *FAR* better than mine (for 
which no pictures will ever be found on the Internet ;-)  Good job.

Those corner voids are usually not caused by improper rolling, they are usually 
caused by the material/resin pulling away from the corner because of surface 
tension during the curing process.  That's where an initial bead of epoxy and 
filler (glass fibers, micro-balloons, wood flour, saw dust, kevlar pulp, etc) 
is used.  Mix the putty to a consistency of a creamy peanut butter. Just put a 
small bead of putty in the corner after spreading the initial coat of epoxy on 
the mold, but before laying in the first layer of mat.  The putty will squeeze 
out as you roll the mat in, but it will always fill the corner, producing a 
sweet edge when you pull the part out of the mold.  I use kevlar pulp almost 
exclusively for that purpose, because it yields a rock-hard, extremely durable 
corner.  Don't take too long spreading the putty and laying the first layer, 
because the putty cures faster than resin by itself.

With regards to filling the voids.  If you used epoxy resin for the molded 
part, then just create a putty from the same epoxy resin using a filler (see 
list above).  Epoxy always sticks to itself.  If you used molding polyester 
resin (which does *not* include wax), then both epoxy and polyester putty will 
work fine for the filler.  If you used standard polyester resin (the stuff 
from auto parts or marine stores) it contains a wax to help it cure. So, 
you'll need to rough sand the void to remove the wax layer before filling will 
either epoxy or polyester putty.  (FYI: Bondo is a polyester putty).  When 
making your own putty, mix it to a consistency of a stiff peanut butter.

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