Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase voltage out of range errors

2012-11-27 Thread Jason Szumlanski
This has been a common error on M190's for us. Is the string center fed, or
fed from one end of the 17 inverter string? Where are the failed inverters
on the string in relation to the transition cable(s)? Enphase has an App
Note on voltage rise that might be relevant. They recommend center feeding
long strings to avoid nuisance trips due to voltage range issues.

*Jason Szumlanski** *

*Fafco Solar*



On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 3:46 PM, William Miller will...@millersolar.comwrote:

 Friends:

 We have one site that is experiencing ongoing problems with errors
 indicating, AC Voltage Out Of Range.  This has occurred on two of 17 M190
 inverters.  Apparently the voltage is not really out of range, the inverter
 is erroneously reporting.

 I have one replacement in hand and was just about to drive the 2 hours to
 replace it when another inverter indicated the same problem.  I ordered a
 second replacement.

 I fear that soon after I return to my shop from the job I will see another
 inverter with this problem.  Has anyone else experienced this error?

 Thanks in advance,

 William

 Miller Solar
 Voice :805-438-5600
 email: will...@millersolar.com
 http://millersolar.com
 License No. C-10-773985

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Re: [RE-wrenches] PVSYST or similar analysis needed

2012-11-27 Thread Dave Click
Carl, you may also be interested in HOMER-- free 2-week trial available 
of the latest version (after that, $99 per 6-month renewal, despite zero 
updates since Nov 2010). There's also the free legacy version that's a 
few years old.


http://homerenergy.com/

On 2012/11/26 22:40, Carl Adams wrote:

Hello Wrenches,

I am in need of an analysis for a large battery backup system.  I am
looking for a sweet spot in PV array size and battery bank size.  I need
this modeled on a time of day basis, and evaluated monthly thru a full
calendar year.  I am told that PVSYST can perform such an analysis but I
neither have the tool nor the experience using it to perform the
modeling, so I am looking to hire the job out to someone who does.  If
any of you have the software and expertise to use it please contact me
off list for more detailed requirements.

With Regards
  Carl Adams, SunRock Solar.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Best practices for conduit penetration on roof

2012-11-27 Thread Jason Szumlanski
We're pretty fortunate that a roof mounted readily accessible disconnect
has not been a sticking point locally. I would argue that the AC disconnect
is still the trunk cable connector, which can be not readily accessible.
The AC breaker carrying the combined circuit output in the main
distribution panel or the fusible disconnect switch if performing a supply
side connection would qualify as the readily accessible disconnect. If you
install Enphase I'm sure you are familiar with the manufacturer's excellent
white paper on this issue.

I hear what you are saying about the temperature concerns, but there are
many installations that have far fewer than 17 inverters per string. A
typical residential installation can be split into two or three branch
circuits (thank you, Andrew, for keeping me accurate on the string/circuit
thing!) The temp concern is definitely something to explore further. There
is also the thermal interference factor to take into account for multiple
breakers that Gary did not mention. The full datasheet is here:

http://www05.abb.com/global/scot/scot209.nsf/veritydisplay/11d7d0032b466358c125712400340107/$file/2CDC002052D0203_UL489.pdf

As for the interior rated breaker comment, typical AC branch circuit
breakers (i.e. Sq D QO) are mounted in wet location NEMA 3R boxes all the
time on the exterior of a building. I'm not sure I understand this concern.
The temperature derating curve is also similar for ABB and QO breakers. QO
Datasheet here:

http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Miniature%20Circuit%20Breakers/QO-QOB%20Circuit%20Breakers/0730CT9801R108.pdf

I definitely want to be 100% sure the SolaDeck and breakers are
appropriately rated before proceeding. Any comments welcomed...

*Jason Szumlanski** *

*Fafco Solar*


On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 6:37 PM, Gary Willett
g...@icarussolarservices.comwrote:

  JASON:

 I talked to Steve Capozzi of SolaDeck and he sent me additional info about
 the circuit breakers:

 *Manufacturer*:  ABB

 *Terminal Temp Rating*:  75C / 167F

 *Reference Temperature*: 20C / 68F

 *Ambient Temp Derating*:

 30C/86F = 18.7A
 40C/104F = 17.3A
 50C/122F = 15.8A
 60C/140F = 14.1A
 70C/158F = 12.2A

  My concern is that we may be attempting to use an interior rated AC
 breaker in a roof-deck-mounted NEMA3-R enclosure.

 In an Enphase application, with the maximum of 17 inverters per AC Source
 Circuit, the continuous current will be 0.9A x 17 x 1.25 = 19.1A. This
 exceeds the 30C/86F trip current of 18.7A.

 The interior temperature of the SolaDeck could very likely approach the
 60C/140F trip current of 14.1A.

 It seems to me that nuisance trips could be a high probability event.

 Does anyone have any field experience using this Soladeck option for a AC
 Source Circuit Combiner Box (SCCB)?

 Another issue, at least in some jurisdictions, is the requirement for a
 roof-top AC Disconnect.

 The SolaDeck, when used as an AC SCCB, may not meet the NEC Article 100
 requirements in some jurisdictions for readily accessible because a tool
 is required to open it.

   Regards,


 Gary Willett, PE
 Icarus Engineering LLC
   Icarus Solar Services LLC

 
  On 11/26/2012 2:21 PM, Jason Szumlanski wrote:

 I did get some pictures and info from Soladeck. Here are some links:

  Pics:

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=1BpiL-1SdSNNsj4wPMQrFCLHH7JT2dek_KftSJl06QLqc0yhJ_1t5oij0aEA6

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=1cVuhZGeQNHL1IvGvNBa7v93oZyGBvjxCv5yq4AmoyJeDAITxvgMqgECR2yTv

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=1umslTplnFyZG1eNCZE-MMi_OqrSeirFCPRBl9mFNZJ2gQkBjM5LEXnaPKy2l
 Specs:

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=13KLAuxUHOR9al7-36reDSJJ7IMnqV3ANPnJILPnrj2xcAi0ksRj67ifKIe7R

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=1kvPFcDc1vruS3W_aONlXyIHm1T8-qi4vTpTwGGJ7H0eIwuZ-5e6zrM1CcND5

 https://docs.google.com/open?id=1lM8FtYl9HiYohru32UA_Gb1tXZKZ5iw-8tnSu1Un6g4vcklLL-DK1qLPMdsB

  I was told Soligent can source the combiners for you (and me).

   *Jason Szumlanski** *

 *Fafco Solar* 
 http://www.wisestamp.com/apps/wordpress?utm_source=extensionutm_medium=emailutm_term=wordpressutm_campaign=apps


 On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 1:50 PM, Jason Szumlanski ja...@fafcosolar.comwrote:

 I just called Soladeck and they are sending me some more info on
 availability. I'll pass it along when I get it. I didn't realize they made
 an AC roof mounted string combiner solution. That's a huge help for 2 or 3
 string Enphase installations (they make both combiners).

  While on the subject, we recently started using the Enphase cable
 couple with Type TC-ER cable to extend cabling to junction boxes when
 necessary... No more wasting trunk cable connectors! I suppose Type TC-ER
 could be used all the way to the main distribution panel, thereby
 eliminating junctions on the roof, but I haven't looked into the
 cost/benefit of that idea.

*Jason Szumlanski*

 *Fafco Solar*


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread Steven Lawrence
Hi Robert,

Get a mega Ohm meter, isolate the home runs and perform a test.  You should
get 550 MOhms.  If not, there's something likely wrong with that string
that's causing the intermittent ground fault.  Or, have someone stand on
the ground with a hose pointing it at the roof and try to find it using the
voltage method you've been doing.

Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2012 16:55:16 -0800
From: Robert Nuese robertnu...@sonic.net
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault
Message-ID: 9c067b77-378b-40ed-ab44-ff966dc20...@sonic.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dear Wrenches

I've been experiencing a troubleshooting problem that you may be able to
help me with.  Or, can anyone refer me to someone, maybe an electrical
engineer?, who I could hire to help.
nt.
Any recommendations? Probably needs to be someone within 100 miles of
Sebastopol CA.

Thanks,
Robert Nuese
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems
Robert,

Having installed hundreds of Uni-Solar modules, the only failure I every 
experienced was a framed US64 that had the PV negative short to frame. Flexing 
the module would create intermittent failure. You have PV laminates so your 
ground fault may be to the metal roof.  I might be stating the obvious but 
here's my list of tests:

I would disconnect and hi-pot test each laminate (ref. sec. 4.6, pg 48, 
Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05). 
If that does not produce results, apply pressure with a heavy roller up and 
down the edges where the diodes and cell interconnect traces are while testing.
Check all wire penetrations into the channel.
Make sure all wire expansion rules were followed, look for stressed wire.
Check for any screws installed in other than the two approved areas. There are 
two versions of laminates. One has a VERY narrow area. 0.65 by 2.75,  for 
screw penetration (ref. sec. 3, pg 17, Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05). 
A misplaced screw may have allowed water to migrate to the trace areas and be 
providing a path through the screw.

RIP Stan and Uni-Solar, A brilliant mind and the best performing PV's ever.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems






On Nov 26, 2012, at 5:55 PM, Robert Nuese wrote:

Dear Wrenches

I've been experiencing a troubleshooting problem that you may be able to
help me with.  Or, can anyone refer me to someone, maybe an electrical
engineer?, who I could hire to help.

About 7 years ago I installed Unisolar modules on all the roofs of a complex
of 12 mixed use buildings and one commercial building. These fed the
grid through a variety of Fronius IG and SMA SunnyBoy inverters.

Ever since, we have had occasional intermittent ground faults on a few of
the roofs, and more frequent ones on one roof. At least some of these I
suspect were caused by the roofer. Standard procedure on the Unisolar
modules is to put two screws through them that hold on the roof ridge
z-strip metal closure piece. These also keep the modules from sliding off
the roof in extreme hot weather. I found a number of screws placed
slightly outside the allowed screw zone. After I'd moved the screws
(and removed the raised metal edges the screws had made in the roof,
and put insulation between roof and module in those locations), this has
seemed to fix some problems. Similarly, putting tefzel patches, per Uni-
solar instructions, on some big dings and scratches may have fixed some
others.

However, I still occasionally, rather rarely, get ground fault indications
on some inverters, and rather regularly get them on one specific IG 3000.
Some times the indication is just in the software, and the problem disappears
through resetting by disconnecting the inverter and reconnecting to reset the
software. However, on that worst Fronius, it has usually blown the 1 amp
ground fault fuse, indicating that there very likely has been a ground fault.

I suspect that these ground faults are brought on by thermal expansion and
contraction, that may only occasionally, and briefly, bring hot and ground
elements of the system into close enough proximity. Dampness seems to
play a part, the ground faults almost always occur during the rainy season,
and usually during a rainy period.

But whenever I get out to the site to test the system, the ground fault is
always gone. I test by disconnecting both wires of each string, measuring
the total voltage across, and then the voltage from each to ground. If there
is a clear voltage to ground, then there is a ground fault, and its location in
the string can be easily determined. If the voltage steadily goes toward
zero, then a ground fault is not clearly present, and the location of where
one had been is totally obscure.

I've done very thorough visual inspection of the roofs, and also of the
disconnects, junction boxes, and gutters that the wires pass through.
As mentioned, the modules have had some problems, and I've fixed them
all, as well as can be done. The wires all seem fine. Well connected, neat,
not close to raw metal edges, insulation ok, etc.

I've asked Unisolar (before they went bankrupt, now they don't answer the
phones), and they've just recommended the testing I've done, and not had
any other ideas. Same with Fronius - they think it's outside of the inverter,
and the blown fuses support that position.

I could go on with more details about what I've done and thought about,
for instance, is the Fronius too sensitive? But I'll catch my breath and see
if anyone else has some input before I go into more detail.

SO what am I missing? What test should I do? How can I fix this problem?

OR does anyone know of somebody with more expertise who I could hire
to help? I'm a fairly experienced solar installer, but I think this might be
something that requires an electrical (or electronic?) engineer with a deep
understanding of electrical theory, and with some advanced test equipment.
Any recommendations? Probably needs to be someone within 100 miles 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread David Brearley
Let us know what the megohmmeter says. FWIW: There is some precedent for 
premature product failure in a roof-integrated product manufactured by Energy 
Conversion Devices (Uni-Solar):

http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2012/sep/14/tp-flawed-solar-panels-removed-at-schools/?printpage=all

On Nov 27, 2012, at 10:12 AM, Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems 
wrote:

 Robert,
 
 Having installed hundreds of Uni-Solar modules, the only failure I every 
 experienced was a framed US64 that had the PV negative short to frame. 
 Flexing the module would create intermittent failure. You have PV laminates 
 so your ground fault may be to the metal roof.  I might be stating the 
 obvious but here's my list of tests:
 
 I would disconnect and hi-pot test each laminate (ref. sec. 4.6, pg 48, 
 Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05). 
 If that does not produce results, apply pressure with a heavy roller up and 
 down the edges where the diodes and cell interconnect traces are while 
 testing.
 Check all wire penetrations into the channel.
 Make sure all wire expansion rules were followed, look for stressed wire.
 Check for any screws installed in other than the two approved areas. There 
 are two versions of laminates. One has a VERY narrow area. 0.65 by 2.75,  
 for screw penetration (ref. sec. 3, pg 17, Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 
 10/05). A misplaced screw may have allowed water to migrate to the trace 
 areas and be providing a path through the screw.
 
 RIP Stan and Uni-Solar, A brilliant mind and the best performing PV's ever.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Nov 26, 2012, at 5:55 PM, Robert Nuese wrote:
 
 Dear Wrenches
 
 I've been experiencing a troubleshooting problem that you may be able to
 help me with.  Or, can anyone refer me to someone, maybe an electrical
 engineer?, who I could hire to help.
 
 About 7 years ago I installed Unisolar modules on all the roofs of a complex
 of 12 mixed use buildings and one commercial building. These fed the
 grid through a variety of Fronius IG and SMA SunnyBoy inverters.
 
 Ever since, we have had occasional intermittent ground faults on a few of
 the roofs, and more frequent ones on one roof. At least some of these I
 suspect were caused by the roofer. Standard procedure on the Unisolar
 modules is to put two screws through them that hold on the roof ridge
 z-strip metal closure piece. These also keep the modules from sliding off
 the roof in extreme hot weather. I found a number of screws placed
 slightly outside the allowed screw zone. After I'd moved the screws
 (and removed the raised metal edges the screws had made in the roof,
 and put insulation between roof and module in those locations), this has
 seemed to fix some problems. Similarly, putting tefzel patches, per Uni-
 solar instructions, on some big dings and scratches may have fixed some
 others.
 
 However, I still occasionally, rather rarely, get ground fault indications
 on some inverters, and rather regularly get them on one specific IG 3000.
 Some times the indication is just in the software, and the problem disappears
 through resetting by disconnecting the inverter and reconnecting to reset the
 software. However, on that worst Fronius, it has usually blown the 1 amp
 ground fault fuse, indicating that there very likely has been a ground fault.
 
 I suspect that these ground faults are brought on by thermal expansion and
 contraction, that may only occasionally, and briefly, bring hot and ground
 elements of the system into close enough proximity. Dampness seems to
 play a part, the ground faults almost always occur during the rainy season,
 and usually during a rainy period.
 
 But whenever I get out to the site to test the system, the ground fault is
 always gone. I test by disconnecting both wires of each string, measuring
 the total voltage across, and then the voltage from each to ground. If there
 is a clear voltage to ground, then there is a ground fault, and its location 
 in
 the string can be easily determined. If the voltage steadily goes toward
 zero, then a ground fault is not clearly present, and the location of where
 one had been is totally obscure.
 
 I've done very thorough visual inspection of the roofs, and also of the
 disconnects, junction boxes, and gutters that the wires pass through.
 As mentioned, the modules have had some problems, and I've fixed them
 all, as well as can be done. The wires all seem fine. Well connected, neat,
 not close to raw metal edges, insulation ok, etc.
 
 I've asked Unisolar (before they went bankrupt, now they don't answer the
 phones), and they've just recommended the testing I've done, and not had
 any other ideas. Same with Fronius - they think it's outside of the inverter,
 and the blown fuses support that position.
 
 I could go on with more details about what I've done and thought about,
 for instance, is the Fronius too sensitive? But I'll catch my breath and see
 if anyone else has some input 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase voltage out of range errors

2012-11-27 Thread Bill Hoffer
William

Double check your voltage drop on the AC branch circuits, and make sure
that you consider your wiring between inverters.  Remember that voltage
drop is additive and each inverter will see a slightly lower voltage drop
which could account for the voltage over error, especially if you are
seeing it at the end of the string.  Enphase does have a white paper on
that and they are now recommending splitting long strings int he middle to
make to branch circuits out of one now to alleviate this problem.  The
White Paper explains this in more detail.  There was also a Solar Pro
article describing how voltage drop can result in voltage rise at the
inverter, and I have seen and measured this with a meter.  Maybe the
inverters are correctly reporting the voltage rise?

Bill

On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 12:46 PM, William Miller will...@millersolar.comwrote:

 Friends:

 We have one site that is experiencing ongoing problems with errors
 indicating, AC Voltage Out Of Range.  This has occurred on two of 17 M190
 inverters.  Apparently the voltage is not really out of range, the inverter
 is erroneously reporting.

 I have one replacement in hand and was just about to drive the 2 hours to
 replace it when another inverter indicated the same problem.  I ordered a
 second replacement.

 I fear that soon after I return to my shop from the job I will see another
 inverter with this problem.  Has anyone else experienced this error?

 Thanks in advance,

 William

 Miller Solar
 Voice :805-438-5600
 email: will...@millersolar.com
 http://millersolar.com
 License No. C-10-773985

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-- 
Bill Hoffer PE
NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC
2504 Columbia Ave NW
East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941
bhof...@sunergyengineeringservices.com Cell:(509)679-6165
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[RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread holtek
We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208 3ph 
with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph with two 
2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C configuration 
(??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they don't recommend 
it. No other information was given as to why they don't. My electrician is 
very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is (ME TOO!), so I am 
wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince system owner to add a 
third inverter to get the system right. What problems might/will be encountered 
in this system if not modified? BTW - inverter LCD screens were crapped out, so 
we couldn't readily see if system was functioning properlyfrom metering, we 
think not.


Holt E. Kelly
Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
500 Jewell Dr.
Waco TX. 76712
254-751-9111
www.holteksolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase voltage out of range errors

2012-11-27 Thread William Miller

Bill:

Good question.  I called Enphase back and they say it is definitely a 
hardware problem.  There are at least two registers that indicate AC line 
voltage and in this case they disagree, with VRMS indicating zero.  Enphase 
has advanced diagnostics they can call up on-line, apparently.


William



At 09:49 AM 11/27/2012, you wrote:

William

Double check your voltage drop on the AC branch circuits, and make sure 
that you consider your wiring between inverters.  Remember that voltage 
drop is additive and each inverter will see a slightly lower voltage drop 
which could account for the voltage over error, especially if you are 
seeing it at the end of the string.  Enphase does have a white paper on 
that and they are now recommending splitting long strings int he middle to 
make to branch circuits out of one now to alleviate this problem.  The 
White Paper explains this in more detail.  There was also a Solar Pro 
article describing how voltage drop can result in voltage rise at the 
inverter, and I have seen and measured this with a meter.  Maybe the 
inverters are correctly reporting the voltage rise?


Bill


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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread penobscotsolar
Hi Holt,
   We installed a commercial system a year ago for the National Park
Service that was designed by a competitor (?) and signed off on by an
engineer. It consisted of 13.2 kw of pv and two Fronius 7000 watt, 208
3 ph. inverters. It sounds a lot like what you are dealing with. I
questioned the engineer on it and he said because the facility was so
large (it was a large research and visitor campus for Acadia National
Park with 20+ buildings)the transformer would never see the imbalance
and therefore was not a problem. Fronius agreed, but prefaced that with
the fact that it still was not recommended. I can say that we have
had no issues or complaints at all since the installation in August of
2011 and they monitor it continuously. It would have been a far better
design to use three Fronius 4.5 inverters at 3 ph. I drafted a letter
(CYA letter) to the powers that be about my concerns (transformer
imbalance) and they chose to go ahead with the installation. Nothing
like government work...many more stories about this installation
than anyone has time for here.

Daryl DeJoy
NABCEP Certified PV installer
Penobscot Solar Design



 We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208
 3ph with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph
 with two 2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C
 configuration (??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they
 don't recommend it. No other information was given as to why they don't.
 My electrician is very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is
 (ME TOO!), so I am wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince
 system owner to add a third inverter to get the system right. What
 problems might/will be encountered in this system if not modified? BTW -
 inverter LCD screens were crapped out, so we couldn't readily see if
 system was functioning properlyfrom metering, we think not.


 Holt E. Kelly
 Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
 500 Jewell Dr.
 Waco TX. 76712
 254-751-9111
 www.holteksolar.com
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[RE-wrenches] Very small, auto-start gas generator?

2012-11-27 Thread Dan Fink
Hello esteemed Wrenches;

Has anyone here ever come across a very small, quiet gasoline or propane
generator (no more than 2kw) that can be auto-started? Or electronics that
could do that for a stock generator? A Honda 1000i or 2000i would be ample,
but is not auto start. This is for 12VDC perimeter security cameras / GSM
routers at extremely remote sites, and PV design autonomy time may not be
ample if the weather is terrible, roads are washed out etc.

Thanks in advance!
-- 
Dan Fink,
Executive Director;
Otherpower
Buckville Energy Consulting
Buckville Publications LLC
NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
970.672.4342 (voicemail)
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems
Hi holt,

Just FYI, Fronius will pay you $250 each to swap the inverters.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems





On Nov 27, 2012, at 12:59 PM, hol...@sbcglobal.net hol...@sbcglobal.net 
wrote:

We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208 3ph 
with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph with two 
2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C configuration 
(??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they don't recommend 
it. No other information was given as to why they don't. My electrician is 
very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is (ME TOO!), so I am 
wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince system owner to add a 
third inverter to get the system right. What problems might/will be encountered 
in this system if not modified? BTW - inverter LCD screens were crapped out, so 
we couldn't readily see if system was functioning properlyfrom metering, we 
think not.
 
 
Holt E. Kelly
Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
500 Jewell Dr.
Waco TX. 76712
254-751-9111
www.holteksolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread Dave Click
I would agree that the imbalance at these power levels is not a major 
issue. If it appears that Phase A is most heavily-loaded, I'd install 
the inverters as A-B and A-C to help mitigate the existing imbalance. If 
you've got a lot of 1P loads on a 3P service-- lighting, office 
receptacles or whatever-- you could easily have a large imbalance on a 
regular basis. The 7kVA PV imbalance in your installation would happen 
extremely rarely.


If this imbalance still makes you uneasy, then install three inverters 
and then a relay system to bring all the inverters down in case any of 
them fails. The SMA Power Balancer does this for their inverters and 
maybe some third-parties offer them too for these Fronius installs. This 
seems to make the most sense for decentralized systems with many string 
inverters, to ensure that a low phase voltage doesn't turn off a 
fraction of your inverters and cause a 100kVA imbalance.


I've heard that some utilities have a max PV imbalance (calculated from 
the inverter ratings) of 6kVA. No utility to my knowledge requires an 
interconnection agreement for a 10kVA single-phase commercial water 
heater (to steal a Bill Brooks example) that would have a much stronger 
impact.


Dave


On 2012/11/27 15:14, penobscotso...@midmaine.com wrote:

Hi Holt,
We installed a commercial system a year ago for the National Park
Service that was designed by a competitor (?) and signed off on by an
engineer. It consisted of 13.2 kw of pv and two Fronius 7000 watt, 208
3 ph. inverters. It sounds a lot like what you are dealing with. I
questioned the engineer on it and he said because the facility was so
large (it was a large research and visitor campus for Acadia National
Park with 20+ buildings)the transformer would never see the imbalance
and therefore was not a problem. Fronius agreed, but prefaced that with
the fact that it still was not recommended. I can say that we have
had no issues or complaints at all since the installation in August of
2011 and they monitor it continuously. It would have been a far better
design to use three Fronius 4.5 inverters at 3 ph. I drafted a letter
(CYA letter) to the powers that be about my concerns (transformer
imbalance) and they chose to go ahead with the installation. Nothing
like government work...many more stories about this installation
than anyone has time for here.

Daryl DeJoy
NABCEP Certified PV installer
Penobscot Solar Design




We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208
3ph with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph
with two 2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C
configuration (??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they
don't recommend it. No other information was given as to why they don't.
My electrician is very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is
(ME TOO!), so I am wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince
system owner to add a third inverter to get the system right. What
problems might/will be encountered in this system if not modified? BTW -
inverter LCD screens were crapped out, so we couldn't readily see if
system was functioning properlyfrom metering, we think not.


Holt E. Kelly
Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
500 Jewell Dr.
Waco TX. 76712
254-751-9111
www.holteksolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread Chris Mason
I really don't understand what your problem with this arrangement is.
How would this be different from a house on phase A-B installing an
inverter and the next house on Phase B-C installing an inverter? Or,
installing two single phase 240V A/C units in a three phase building?
Electricians have no issue with installing single phase equipment in three
phase buildings so why should small inverters be any more a problem.
While it is always neat to install three inverters n a three phase
configuration, 4,500 watts of imbalance is trivial.


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 3:59 PM, hol...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 **
 We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208
 3ph with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph
 with two 2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C
 configuration (??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they
 don't recommend it. No other information was given as to why they don't.
 My electrician is very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is
 (ME TOO!), so I am wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince
 system owner to add a third inverter to get the system right. What problems
 might/will be encountered in this system if not modified? BTW - inverter
 LCD screens were crapped out, so we couldn't readily see if system was
 functioning properlyfrom metering, we think not.


 Holt E. Kelly
 Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
 500 Jewell Dr.
 Waco TX. 76712
 254-751-9111
 www.holteksolar.com

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-- 
Chris Mason
President, Comet Systems Ltd
www.cometenergysystems.com
Cell: 264.235.5670
Skype: netconcepts
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Very small, auto-start gas generator?

2012-11-27 Thread Chris Mason
The problem you will face with such a small generator is the run time
rating. You are likely to put a  large number of hours on this and you will
kill a little 2KW gas generator quickly. The service interval will be too
short for this type of use.
Additionally, they are generally not designed to be outdoor use and cannot
be used indoor. How will you house it? How will you connect more than a few
hours fuel?
You can get a 6KW Generac ecogen that is rated for 500 hours between
service and designed for this kind of run time. Comes with weather proof
housing and can be run from a large fuel tank.


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 4:53 PM, Dan Fink danbo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello esteemed Wrenches;

 Has anyone here ever come across a very small, quiet gasoline or propane
 generator (no more than 2kw) that can be auto-started? Or electronics that
 could do that for a stock generator? A Honda 1000i or 2000i would be ample,
 but is not auto start. This is for 12VDC perimeter security cameras / GSM
 routers at extremely remote sites, and PV design autonomy time may not be
 ample if the weather is terrible, roads are washed out etc.

 Thanks in advance!
 --
 Dan Fink,
 Executive Director;
 Otherpower
 Buckville Energy Consulting
 Buckville Publications LLC
 NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
 970.672.4342 (voicemail)



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President, Comet Systems Ltd
www.cometenergysystems.com
Cell: 264.235.5670
Skype: netconcepts
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Very small, auto-start gas generator?

2012-11-27 Thread Dan Fink
We are looking at a load of about 100 watts, 24/7, and the locations would
be in the Caribbean with 5-6 full sun hours daily, most days. I don't
foresee a large amount of generator run time, but storms and fog happen.

This is not in the USA, so I also see issues in obtaining AGM batteries.
Golf car batteries are common.

I'm not seeing much out there for tiny generators, and I'm starting to
think that the occasional hammering of a golf car battery bank by a
week-long period of no sun might be more cost-effective -- it won't happen
very often, and I believe the 12vdc gear they are running is really 5vdc
USB, so their power supply won't cut out until 10,5 vdc.

 I believe that lack of noise is also an issue. The one thing they don't
lack down there is sun, that's for sure. A hammered battery bank would fill
in a day.

Hmmm..contemplating this. Thanks for your input, all!

DAN FINK



On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Chris Mason
cometenergysyst...@gmail.comwrote:

 The problem you will face with such a small generator is the run time
 rating. You are likely to put a  large number of hours on this and you will
 kill a little 2KW gas generator quickly. The service interval will be too
 short for this type of use.
 Additionally, they are generally not designed to be outdoor use and cannot
 be used indoor. How will you house it? How will you connect more than a few
 hours fuel?
 You can get a 6KW Generac ecogen that is rated for 500 hours between
 service and designed for this kind of run time. Comes with weather proof
 housing and can be run from a large fuel tank.



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Very small, auto-start gas generator?

2012-11-27 Thread Chris Mason
AGM are easy to ship in, in fact they are easier than flooded due to Hazmat
shipping issues.
What island?


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Dan Fink danbo...@gmail.com wrote:

 We are looking at a load of about 100 watts, 24/7, and the locations would
 be in the Caribbean with 5-6 full sun hours daily, most days. I don't
 foresee a large amount of generator run time, but storms and fog happen.

 This is not in the USA, so I also see issues in obtaining AGM batteries.
 Golf car batteries are common.

 I'm not seeing much out there for tiny generators, and I'm starting to
 think that the occasional hammering of a golf car battery bank by a
 week-long period of no sun might be more cost-effective -- it won't happen
 very often, and I believe the 12vdc gear they are running is really 5vdc
 USB, so their power supply won't cut out until 10,5 vdc.

  I believe that lack of noise is also an issue. The one thing they don't
 lack down there is sun, that's for sure. A hammered battery bank would fill
 in a day.

 Hmmm..contemplating this. Thanks for your input, all!

 DAN FINK




 On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Chris Mason cometenergysyst...@gmail.com
  wrote:

 The problem you will face with such a small generator is the run time
 rating. You are likely to put a  large number of hours on this and you will
 kill a little 2KW gas generator quickly. The service interval will be too
 short for this type of use.
 Additionally, they are generally not designed to be outdoor use and
 cannot be used indoor. How will you house it? How will you connect more
 than a few hours fuel?
 You can get a 6KW Generac ecogen that is rated for 500 hours between
 service and designed for this kind of run time. Comes with weather proof
 housing and can be run from a large fuel tank.



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-- 
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President, Comet Systems Ltd
www.cometenergysystems.com
Cell: 264.235.5670
Skype: netconcepts
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[RE-wrenches] Info On 2 V batteries Please

2012-11-27 Thread Parrish, Peter
We recently purchased a battery powered forklift, with 24 ea. 2V batteries. 
Approximate dimensions: W=5, L=6-3/16, H=~21 (hard to tell). Enersys is 
stamped on the top.

The battery supplier claims the batteries are 24-85-13 but this refers to a 
24V battery as far as I can tell. He also claims that the batteries are rated 
at 510-550 A-hr. I am assuming that the lower number is for 6 hours discharge.

I would like to know more about the batteries. Also, how to discharge / charge 
them. Should they be run down to 20% SOC and then fully charged? What if we 
don't use the forklift for a week at a time?

Based on my experience of using AGM batteries, it would seem that the Bulk 
charging rate should be some percentage (e.g. 20%) of the 6-hour ampacity, then 
there is a constant voltage absorption charge (e.g. Vabs=2.385 V), and a switch 
to Float when the charging current drops to some low percentage (e.g. 0.5% of 
capacity), and the Float voltage being 2.125 V. Again everything at 25 deg C. 
It seems like the forklift guys like to refer everything to a 6 hour capacity, 
which may be related to the maximum typical daily usage.

What is the relationship between Voc and SOC after resting the battery for 6 
hours at 25 deg C?

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.

- Peter Parrish

Alternative Energy Department
College of the Canyons
peter.parr...@canyons.edu
O: (661) 362-3888 C: (323) 839-6108
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase With 2 Inverters?

2012-11-27 Thread Andrew Truitt
Bill Brooks posted this in 2008.  A couple of project-specific sentences
were removed to avoid confusion.

The 6kVA value comes from the California Rule 21 that I worked on. It only
applies to split-phase 240V systems (6kVA on 120V). There is no specific
limit for imbalance on a 3-phase service.

A basic rule for single phase generation on a 3=phase service is to rotate
among the phases in a balanced manner...

...The best way to place the imbalanced single-phase generators on the service
is to test the current on all three phases and put the inverter(s) on the
most heavily loaded phase(s). This reduces the site imbalance by reducing
the imbalance on the serving transformer (lowering current on the most
heavily loaded phases). It is common for 3-phase services to have imbalances
of 10 kVA or more, so single-phase inverters can reduce the problem rather
than make it worse.




For a brighter energy future,


Andrew Truitt
NABCEP Certified PV Installer™ (ID# 032407-66)

Principal
Truitt Renewable Energy Consulting

(202) 486-7507

http://www.linkedin.com/pub/andrew-truitt/8/622/713



Don't get me wrong: I love nuclear energy! It's just that I prefer fusion
to fission. And it just so happens that there's an enormous fusion reactor
safely banked a few million miles from us. It delivers more than we could
ever use in just about 8 minutes. And it's wireless!

~William McDonough






On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Chris Mason
cometenergysyst...@gmail.comwrote:

 I really don't understand what your problem with this arrangement is.
 How would this be different from a house on phase A-B installing an
 inverter and the next house on Phase B-C installing an inverter? Or,
 installing two single phase 240V A/C units in a three phase building?
 Electricians have no issue with installing single phase equipment in three
 phase buildings so why should small inverters be any more a problem.
 While it is always neat to install three inverters n a three phase
 configuration, 4,500 watts of imbalance is trivial.


 On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 3:59 PM, hol...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 **
 We were asked to inspect a  GT system installed by others. Service is 208
 3ph with two (?) Fronius IG 4500 208v inverters. The inverter panel is 3ph
 with two 2pole breakers - one each side of the buss bar in a A/B, B/C
 configuration (??). Called Fronius and they said it would work, but they
 don't recommend it. No other information was given as to why they don't.
 My electrician is very uncomfortable with doing work on this system as is
 (ME TOO!), so I am wondering if I might be able get some ammo to convince
 system owner to add a third inverter to get the system right. What problems
 might/will be encountered in this system if not modified? BTW - inverter
 LCD screens were crapped out, so we couldn't readily see if system was
 functioning properlyfrom metering, we think not.


 Holt E. Kelly
 Holtek Fireplace  Solar Products
 500 Jewell Dr.
 Waco TX. 76712
 254-751-9111
 www.holteksolar.com

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 --
 Chris Mason
 President, Comet Systems Ltd
 www.cometenergysystems.com
  Cell: 264.235.5670
 Skype: netconcepts


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[RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread Robert Nuese
Thanks to the Wrenches who have offered good advice.

In answer to several of you who suggested megger testing,
No, I'm afraid I don't own a megger. It had become clear to me that
this might well be a useful tool in my case, but the things are expensive.
I've managed to install pv systems for 10 years without one, so I can't
justify buying one just for this one issue. I also had the impression
that megger testing may be a bit hard to interpret, and perhaps incon-
clusive, especially for someone with no previous experience.

Now Larry Crutcher has drawn my attention to a Unisolar installation
guide (newer than versions I've got) that gives instructions on how to
use the megger to test a Unisolar installation. This is just what I need.
I'm a bit surprised that the Unisolar techs I'd spoken to on several
occasions about my problems had never talked about megger testing,
or these instructions. 

So, I need a megger, at least temporarily.

The Unisolar instructions call for the use of the BM21 or other quality
megger. The BM21 is no longer in production. There are a confusing
array of different models available. Can anyone offer suggestions
about other models that would or would not be suitable for my use?
According to the Megger co. website the new model that replaces the
BM21 is the MIT525, which I can buy online for $3,576. Whew!
On the other hand, I gather I can buy a Fluke 1507 insulation tester
for $500. Would that be adequate? Anyway, even at that much
cheaper, for solving one problem in 10 years, it would make more
sense to rent…

I called a few of the equipment rental agencies in my neighborhood,
but none had ever heard of a megger.
Does anyone have any idea where I could rent one - or is there a
wrench in my neck of the woods (70 miles north of San Francisco)
who would like to rent me theirs?
Or does anybody have a suggestion about a particularly good deal on
buying one?

Or maybe there is a nearby wrench who I could hire to help, someone
with a megger, who already knows how to use it.?

Here is a big question. I had assumed that such testing would have to
be done on de-energized circuits, which for the solar panel part would
mean at night. The Unisolar instructions don't mention this. They say
to disconnect each string and then short each out before the test, using
a jumper. This strikes me as odd, and a bit scary. Would it not be
better to do this on a de-energized circuit at night?

Thanks very much for any further information,
Robert



 Robert,
 
 Having installed hundreds of Uni-Solar modules, the only failure I every 
 experienced was a framed US64 that had the PV negative short to frame. 
 Flexing the module would create intermittent failure. You have PV laminates 
 so your ground fault may be to the metal roof.  I might be stating the 
 obvious but here's my list of tests:
 
 I would disconnect and hi-pot test each laminate (ref. sec. 4.6, pg 48, 
 Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05). 
 If that does not produce results, apply pressure with a heavy roller up and 
 down the edges where the diodes and cell interconnect traces are while 
 testing.
 Check all wire penetrations into the channel.
 Make sure all wire expansion rules were followed, look for stressed wire.
 Check for any screws installed in other than the two approved areas. There 
 are two versions of laminates. One has a VERY narrow area. 0.65 by 2.75,  
 for screw penetration (ref. sec. 3, pg 17, Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 
 10/05). A misplaced screw may have allowed water to migrate to the trace 
 areas and be providing a path through the screw.
 
 RIP Stan and Uni-Solar, A brilliant mind and the best performing PV's ever.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems




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Re: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread David Brearley
Someone earlier suggested contacting Solmetric in Sebastapol:

http://www.solmetric.com/contact-us.html

Their PVA I-V curve tracer is a great troubleshooting tool, and they also carry 
a Megger MIT 430 insulation tester:

http://www.solmetric.com/megger-mit430.html

Maybe they have a kit (PVA + Megger) that they use in-house that you could rent 
you for a day? 

It's worth asking, especially since you are in the neighborhood.

On Nov 27, 2012, at 5:32 PM, Robert Nuese wrote:

 Thanks to the Wrenches who have offered good advice.
 
 In answer to several of you who suggested megger testing,
 No, I'm afraid I don't own a megger. It had become clear to me that
 this might well be a useful tool in my case, but the things are expensive.
 I've managed to install pv systems for 10 years without one, so I can't
 justify buying one just for this one issue. I also had the impression
 that megger testing may be a bit hard to interpret, and perhaps incon-
 clusive, especially for someone with no previous experience.
 
 Now Larry Crutcher has drawn my attention to a Unisolar installation
 guide (newer than versions I've got) that gives instructions on how to
 use the megger to test a Unisolar installation. This is just what I need.
 I'm a bit surprised that the Unisolar techs I'd spoken to on several
 occasions about my problems had never talked about megger testing,
 or these instructions. 
 
 So, I need a megger, at least temporarily.
 
 The Unisolar instructions call for the use of the BM21 or other quality
 megger. The BM21 is no longer in production. There are a confusing
 array of different models available. Can anyone offer suggestions
 about other models that would or would not be suitable for my use?
 According to the Megger co. website the new model that replaces the
 BM21 is the MIT525, which I can buy online for $3,576. Whew!
 On the other hand, I gather I can buy a Fluke 1507 insulation tester
 for $500. Would that be adequate? Anyway, even at that much
 cheaper, for solving one problem in 10 years, it would make more
 sense to rent…
 
 I called a few of the equipment rental agencies in my neighborhood,
 but none had ever heard of a megger.
 Does anyone have any idea where I could rent one - or is there a
 wrench in my neck of the woods (70 miles north of San Francisco)
 who would like to rent me theirs?
 Or does anybody have a suggestion about a particularly good deal on
 buying one?
 
 Or maybe there is a nearby wrench who I could hire to help, someone
 with a megger, who already knows how to use it.?
 
 Here is a big question. I had assumed that such testing would have to
 be done on de-energized circuits, which for the solar panel part would
 mean at night. The Unisolar instructions don't mention this. They say
 to disconnect each string and then short each out before the test, using
 a jumper. This strikes me as odd, and a bit scary. Would it not be
 better to do this on a de-energized circuit at night?
 
 Thanks very much for any further information,
 Robert
 
 
 
 Robert,
 
 Having installed hundreds of Uni-Solar modules, the only failure I every 
 experienced was a framed US64 that had the PV negative short to frame. 
 Flexing the module would create intermittent failure. You have PV laminates 
 so your ground fault may be to the metal roof.  I might be stating the 
 obvious but here's my list of tests:
 
 I would disconnect and hi-pot test each laminate (ref. sec. 4.6, pg 48, 
 Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05). 
 If that does not produce results, apply pressure with a heavy roller up and 
 down the edges where the diodes and cell interconnect traces are while 
 testing.
 Check all wire penetrations into the channel.
 Make sure all wire expansion rules were followed, look for stressed wire.
 Check for any screws installed in other than the two approved areas. There 
 are two versions of laminates. One has a VERY narrow area. 0.65 by 2.75,  
 for screw penetration (ref. sec. 3, pg 17, Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 
 10/05). A misplaced screw may have allowed water to migrate to the trace 
 areas and be providing a path through the screw.
 
 RIP Stan and Uni-Solar, A brilliant mind and the best performing PV's ever.
 
 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Info On 2 V batteries Please

2012-11-27 Thread William Miller

Peter:

These batteries sound like IBE 85N batteries.  See link below.  I need to 
warn you that this company has about the worse web site in the industry.


http://www.ibe-inc.com/html/altenergy.htm

William



At 01:31 PM 11/27/2012, you wrote:
We recently purchased a battery powered forklift, with 24 ea. 2V 
batteries. Approximate dimensions: W=5, L=6-3/16, H=~21 (hard to tell). 
Enersys is stamped on the top.


The battery supplier claims the batteries are 24-85-13 but this refers 
to a 24V battery as far as I can tell. He also claims that the batteries 
are rated at 510-550 A-hr. I am assuming that the lower number is for 6 
hours discharge.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Info On 2 V batteries Please

2012-11-27 Thread bob ellison
These batteries can take a 2000 or so cycles to 20% dod before they are worn
out.
Both numbers could be the 6 hour rate, it varies with electrolyte strength.
Somewhere between 1.265 and 1.285 SG, some hi acid cells are 1.325 SG.
The 24 means 24 cells, the 85 is the 85 AH plates and the 13 means 13
positive plates. Those will weigh 90 - 100# for each cell.
Can send you more info if you want.

Got to run,
Bob Ellison

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Parrish,
Peter
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 4:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Info On 2 V batteries Please

We recently purchased a battery powered forklift, with 24 ea. 2V batteries.
Approximate dimensions: W=5, L=6-3/16, H=~21 (hard to tell). Enersys is
stamped on the top.

The battery supplier claims the batteries are 24-85-13 but this refers to
a 24V battery as far as I can tell. He also claims that the batteries are
rated at 510-550 A-hr. I am assuming that the lower number is for 6 hours
discharge.

I would like to know more about the batteries. Also, how to discharge /
charge them. Should they be run down to 20% SOC and then fully charged? What
if we don't use the forklift for a week at a time?

Based on my experience of using AGM batteries, it would seem that the Bulk
charging rate should be some percentage (e.g. 20%) of the 6-hour ampacity,
then there is a constant voltage absorption charge (e.g. Vabs=2.385 V), and
a switch to Float when the charging current drops to some low percentage
(e.g. 0.5% of capacity), and the Float voltage being 2.125 V. Again
everything at 25 deg C. It seems like the forklift guys like to refer
everything to a 6 hour capacity, which may be related to the maximum typical
daily usage.

What is the relationship between Voc and SOC after resting the battery for 6
hours at 25 deg C?

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.

- Peter Parrish

Alternative Energy Department
College of the Canyons
peter.parr...@canyons.edu
O: (661) 362-3888 C: (323) 839-6108
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Info On 2 V batteries Please

2012-11-27 Thread Jay Peltz
Hi Peter

Are these 12 batteries in a large single steel case?

And are they flooded or VRLA?

Thx

Jay
Peltz power







Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 27, 2012, at 1:31 PM, Parrish, Peter peter.parr...@canyons.edu wrote:

 We recently purchased a battery powered forklift, with 24 ea. 2V batteries. 
 Approximate dimensions: W=5, L=6-3/16, H=~21 (hard to tell). Enersys is 
 stamped on the top.
 
 The battery supplier claims the batteries are 24-85-13 but this refers to a 
 24V battery as far as I can tell. He also claims that the batteries are rated 
 at 510-550 A-hr. I am assuming that the lower number is for 6 hours discharge.
 
 I would like to know more about the batteries. Also, how to discharge / 
 charge them. Should they be run down to 20% SOC and then fully charged? What 
 if we don't use the forklift for a week at a time?
 
 Based on my experience of using AGM batteries, it would seem that the Bulk 
 charging rate should be some percentage (e.g. 20%) of the 6-hour ampacity, 
 then there is a constant voltage absorption charge (e.g. Vabs=2.385 V), and a 
 switch to Float when the charging current drops to some low percentage (e.g. 
 0.5% of capacity), and the Float voltage being 2.125 V. Again everything at 
 25 deg C. It seems like the forklift guys like to refer everything to a 6 
 hour capacity, which may be related to the maximum typical daily usage.
 
 What is the relationship between Voc and SOC after resting the battery for 6 
 hours at 25 deg C?
 
 Thanks in advance for your help, guys.
 
 - Peter Parrish
 
 Alternative Energy Department
 College of the Canyons
 peter.parr...@canyons.edu
 O: (661) 362-3888 C: (323) 839-6108
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Unisolar Intermittent Ground Fault

2012-11-27 Thread Chris Mason
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-380260-Autoranging-Digital-Insulation/dp/B000EWW2UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1354065758sr=8-1keywords=extech+insulation

$239


On Tue, Nov 27, 2012 at 7:32 PM, Robert Nuese robertnu...@sonic.net wrote:

 Thanks to the Wrenches who have offered good advice.

 In answer to several of you who suggested megger testing,
 No, I'm afraid I don't own a megger. It had become clear to me that
 this might well be a useful tool in my case, but the things are expensive.
 I've managed to install pv systems for 10 years without one, so I can't
 justify buying one just for this one issue. I also had the impression
 that megger testing may be a bit hard to interpret, and perhaps incon-
 clusive, especially for someone with no previous experience.

 Now Larry Crutcher has drawn my attention to a Unisolar installation
 guide (newer than versions I've got) that gives instructions on how to
 use the megger to test a Unisolar installation. This is just what I need.
 I'm a bit surprised that the Unisolar techs I'd spoken to on several
 occasions about my problems had never talked about megger testing,
 or these instructions.

 So, I need a megger, at least temporarily.

 The Unisolar instructions call for the use of the BM21 or other quality
 megger. The BM21 is no longer in production. There are a confusing
 array of different models available. Can anyone offer suggestions
 about other models that would or would not be suitable for my use?
 According to the Megger co. website the new model that replaces the
 BM21 is the MIT525, which I can buy online for $3,576. Whew!
 On the other hand, I gather I can buy a Fluke 1507 insulation tester
 for $500. Would that be adequate? Anyway, even at that much
 cheaper, for solving one problem in 10 years, it would make more
 sense to rent…

 I called a few of the equipment rental agencies in my neighborhood,
 but none had ever heard of a megger.
 Does anyone have any idea where I could rent one - or is there a
 wrench in my neck of the woods (70 miles north of San Francisco)
 who would like to rent me theirs?
 Or does anybody have a suggestion about a particularly good deal on
 buying one?

 Or maybe there is a nearby wrench who I could hire to help, someone
 with a megger, who already knows how to use it.?

 Here is a big question. I had assumed that such testing would have to
 be done on de-energized circuits, which for the solar panel part would
 mean at night. The Unisolar instructions don't mention this. They say
 to disconnect each string and then short each out before the test, using
 a jumper. This strikes me as odd, and a bit scary. Would it not be
 better to do this on a de-energized circuit at night?

 Thanks very much for any further information,
 Robert



 Robert,

 Having installed hundreds of Uni-Solar modules, the only failure I every
 experienced was a framed US64 that had the PV negative short to frame.
 Flexing the module would create intermittent failure. You have PV laminates
 so your ground fault may be to the metal roof.  I might be stating the
 obvious but here's my list of tests:


- I would disconnect and hi-pot test each laminate (ref. sec. 4.6, pg
48, Installation Guide, AA4-3670-05, 10/05).
- If that does not produce results, apply pressure with a heavy roller
up and down the edges where the diodes and cell interconnect traces are
while testing.
- Check all wire penetrations into the channel.
- Make sure all wire expansion rules were followed, look for stressed
wire.
- Check for any screws installed in other than the two approved areas.
There are two versions of laminates. One has a VERY narrow area. 0.65 by
2.75,  for screw penetration (ref. sec. 3, pg 17, Installation Guide,
AA4-3670-05, 10/05). A misplaced screw may have allowed water to migrate to
the trace areas and be providing a path through the screw.


 RIP Stan and Uni-Solar, A brilliant mind and the best performing PV's ever.

 Larry Crutcher
 Starlight Solar Power Systems





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-- 
Chris Mason
President, Comet Systems Ltd
www.cometenergysystems.com
Cell: 264.235.5670
Skype: netconcepts
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