[RE-wrenches] Digital Refractometers

2019-09-11 Thread solar1online
Hi William,
The old school optical (analog) version is too time consuming for your
needs? If not Misco makes two models oC or oF The oF model is 7084VP.
The actual manufacturing of the unit is done by Reichert. Reichert
makes multiple digital refractometers, hopefully of the same quality
as the Misco unit.
Best wishes,
Bill LoeschSolar 19905 Vasel DriveSaint Louis, MO 63123314 631 1094

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 Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:10:53 -0700
 From: William Miller 
 To: RE-wrenches 
 Subject: [RE-wrenches] Digital refractometers
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 Friends:

 After three failed units I have given up on the Veegee MDX602. What
brand of digital refractometer would any of you recommend?

 Thanks in advance!

 William Miller

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[RE-wrenches] Colorado PE Referral

2019-06-19 Thread solar1online


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Multi-meters

2018-09-13 Thread solar1online
Hi Will, Jay, et al,
I have three years experience with a lower capacity Hioki clamp meter
and could not be more pleased.
Have you investigated what a Google search offers?
Thanks,
Bill Loesch314 631 1094

-From: "jay" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday September 13 2018 10:07:17AM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Multi-meters

 HI Will,  
   I found this unit from Japan. 

HIOKI CM4372

   jay   
   peltz power   

   On Sep 13, 2018, at 5:28 AM, Will White  wrote:  
Hello Wrenches,   
   I've started doing some work on 1,000 VDC systems so I need to
upgrade my meters. What I'd really like is a clamp-on amp meter that
is rated for 1,500 VDC but they don't seem to exist. I want to get
something now that I won't have to upgrade in a few years if I end up
working on 1,500 VDC systems.   
   The only 1,500 VDC meter I've found are the Amprobe HD160C which is
a multi-meter (not clamp-on amp meter) that is rated for 1,500 VDC but
can only measure up to 2 A with their amp clamp attachment. The other
option is the Seaward Solar Utility Pro but I don't have that much
money in the budget.   
   Is it worth getting a 1,500 VDC meter or is 1,000 VDC enough? What
are you techs in the field using?   
   Thanks,   Will   
  -- 
WILL WHITE  Curriculum Developer   

   e: w...@solarenergy.org [2] 
w: www.solarenergy.org [3]p: 802-272-3092

 PV Installation Professional   # 093006-34 

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trackers

2018-09-05 Thread solar1online
Chris,I thought since solar PV prices have come down (understatement),
is it not more cost effective to buy more modules than a tracker? Are
there scenarios that the above would not ring true? (As I remember,
off grid water pumping for livestock ponds may still be an exception
as also, limited space.) Please advise.
Thanks,Bill LoeschSolar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
314 631 1094

-From: ch...@oasismontana.com
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday September 5 2018 3:45:25PM
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trackers

*

Dear people: 

What trackers are y’all using nowadays? I have a customer (with a
great site) who’s insisting on a pair. We’ve sold Zomeworks and
Array Technologies in the past, but I know there are more offerings
now. 

Thanks for the input! 

Chris Daum 

Oasis Montana Inc. 

406-777-4309 or 4321 

406-777-4309 fax 

www.oasismontana.com [1]   

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] battery temp sensors for older Trace/Xantrex inverters

2018-08-04 Thread solar1online
Fellow wrenches,
Am I missing something? Other than the way the sensor connects to the
inverter/CC/??? is this not simply a thermistor/other discrete
component with the appropriate output? Yes, it is potted for
preservation in the potentially acid vapor environment, and provided
with glue when the attachment is other than the terminal and again,
the connector is specific to each manufacturer. 

Thanks for your input,
Bill LoeschSolar 1Saint Louis, MO314 631 1094

-From: "Chris Schaefer" 
To: "re-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday August 4 2018 4:04:47PM
Subject: [RE-wrenches] battery temp sensors for older Trace/Xantrex
inverters

  Good Day All,  
   Running into a lot of missing or chewed up battery temp sensors for
the older Trace inverters. I'm looking for potential replacements.
Anyone had any luck using another vendor or do you have a direct
replacement source for these?   
   Thanks,   Christopher- 

Chris Schaefer’s
  [1]
 Tel/Fax 585-229-2083 or Cell 585-748-1870 
 5115 South Hill Road ~ Canandaigua New York 14424
 _www.solarandwindfx.com [2] ~ E-mail: ch...@solarandwindfx.com [3]_ 

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willing to work and give to those who would not." 

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[RE-wrenches] Does anyone have an SMA 2100TL or 2500 L sitting around?

2018-07-22 Thread solar1online
Does anyone have an SMA 2100TL or 2500 L sitting around that they'd
sell?
Please contact me off-list:
Bill LoeschSolar 1314 631 1094solar1onl...@charter.net

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Electrolyte Dilution vs Voltage

2018-07-18 Thread solar1online
Steve,
Thanks very much for the IR image and the explanation and one possible
remedy. I had (mistakenly) always considered once the plates were
exposed to air there was always irreparable damage. 

What camera are you using?
Thanks again,
Bill Loesch314 631 1094

-From: "Steve Higgins" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday July 18 2018 11:05:06AM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Electrolyte Dilution vs Voltage

  Mac,  
   I don't think she diluted the battery, it sounds like she exposed
the tops of the plates to air and they are corroding. 

   See the attached picture... see where the bottoms of the batteries
are cooler than the rest?   
   With the batteries in this picture they plates have been exposed to
oxygen and the plates are corroding. That corrosion is adding
resistance, and causing heat build up within the battery. If this were
sulfation, you'd see a more even temp range within the entire battery.
  
   My guess is she exposed a bit of the plates, the best way to get
this back, is to focus on full charges followed by short 15 to 20%
discharges... that'll help bring back what every capacity that can be
recovered.   
   To do this:   
   You charge to full... full absorb time and spot check spgs... you
should be in the 1.260+ range on your spgs.   
   You then discharge for 30-60 mins at the C/10 discharge rate...
this will be about 28 to 35 amps DC..   
   I would watch individual battery voltages during this discharge to
make sure you don't have a weak battery or cell within the battery.   
   After the 30-60 mins you then do another full recharge   
   After 4-10 of these cycles you should see a capacity gain   
   If not then the capacity has probably been lost permanently.   

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] 
Steve Higgins ⋅ Technical Services Managert +1.902.597.4020 m
+1.206.790.5840   f +1.902.597.8447 e st...@surrette.com [16]   [17]
[18] [19]  [20]  [21]  [22] [23] [24] [25]  
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privileged material. Any unauthorized review, distribution or other
use of or the taking of any action in reliance upon this information
is prohibited. If you receive this email in error, please contact the
sender and delete or destroy this message and all copies.  
-

  On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 8:38 AM, Mac Lewis  wrote:
   Hello Wrenches,  
   I have a homeowner client that takes pretty good care of her
batteries. She has a 5 year old set of Interstate L16s (2 strings of
8). However, she recently didn't water them for longer than normal and
they gulped up more distilled water than usual (4 gallons). She was
unsure if any of the plates were exposed. She has reported that since
she added the water the battery bank has lost about 1.5-2V (48V bank)
of her bank voltage in the morning. She reported ~49.5V in the morning
before she added the water and now she is below 48V.   
   I have advised a good strong equalize charge to destratify the
electrolyte.   
   Will diluting the electrolyte make the voltage sag like that? Is
there any other advice you might give her until I can get up there?   
   Thanks

  -- 

  Mac Lewis

"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates  
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[17] http://mail2.spectrum.net/#UNIQUE_ID_SafeHtmlFilter_
[18] http://www.facebook.com/RollsBattery
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Electric Water kWh/ person

2018-03-20 Thread solar1online
Ray, Chris, et al,

Both Paloma (185,500 BTU/h) and Bosch (117,000 BTU/h) manufactured
natural draft heaters that used zero electric, just like common tanks.
Because the majority of these units used a standing pilot, they were
castigated by the energy bureaucrat folks in favor of something that
used some electronics to create a spark. Complexity. Then to get the
unit bigger (max ~200,000 BTU/h) for non-boiler applications, a power
vent was added (more complexity) and in due time an electrically
driven gas valve (yet more complexity). To help keep the heater from
freezing when the installation was not done properly, electric ceramic
heaters were added to the heat exchanger to minimize freezing (~300 w
temperature activation). 

The way these non electric natural draft tankless heaters were used in
Europe and Asia was to turn off even the pilot once you were finished
using the water heater (they had the piezo (BBQ style) sparker that
was integrated with the unit as factory equipment). Energy efficient
and simple. There are rare non electric units still available
(sometimes at a premium) if you look hard in the US. Alternatively,
look no further than Canada and Mexico for the same non electric Bosch
models outlawed in the US. The Paloma has been out of production for
some time, so when my remaining new natural gas units are gone, I will
not be able to get any more either. 

Best wishes,
Bill Loesch
314 631 1094

-From: "Ray" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: 20-Mar-2018 21:15:19 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Electric Water kWh/ person

Rianai have 3 major issues when used off grid. 

1) The phantom load when I checked was over 30 watts continuous.
That's over 700 w-hr/ day. 

2) They need pure sine wave, and even have trouble on Trace SW
inverters. (One system I took over has a separate Exeltech on its own
battery and AC charger to run the Rianai, since they have Trace
inverters. Talk about a waste!)

3) They still have the hard well water scaling issues. 

Ray 

Remote Solar

  On 3/20/18 12:03 PM, Dana wrote:

It used to be that “tankless” water heaters were very sensitive
to stable temperature production as flows from single handle facets
shut down the hot and opened the cold flows. 

I can fully recommend the Rianai heaters of today as we have 2 in
offgrid and 0 issues. I have family members that have had them in
residential homes for several years also and 0 issues. 

They do require 120 vac & have digital controls. The water
temperature is very stable & consistent. I have not measured the
phantom load but could if someone needs to know. 

2 thumbs up for Rianai heaters from MHO. 





Dana Orzel Great Solar Works, Inc.  

C - 208.721.7003 d...@solarwork.com [1] 

Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374 

NABCEP # 051112-136 www.solarwork.biz [2] 

"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988"  

P Please consider the environment before printing this email. 

FROM: RE-wrenches  [3] ON BEHALF OF cwarfel
 SENT: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 11:48 AM
 TO: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org [4]
 SUBJECT: Re: [RE-wrenches] Electric Water kWh/ person   

What are the issues with tankless water heaters? I have heard them
described as having "issues", but I haven't read anything that
describes what they are. They are very popular where I live. Any info?
Thanks, Chris 

On 3/20/2018 1:07 PM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar wrote:   

And a big maybe for Offgrid where we like multiple ways to 

charge/heat/cool and make hot water. The default method is almost
always 

the most reliable. For a typical home a 50 gallon propane tank water 

heater with a zinc change every 7 years is the norm. 

An air to water heat pump, an open loop solar water panel or closed
loop 

if conditions warrant it are great secondary methods. To me heating
water 

with electricity does not work because of winter and is a last thing
to 

add.A tankless and their issues are near the end of the list. Ground 

source heat pumps are even lower to me with very nice prices on
extremely 

efficient mini split air source pumps. 

I always try and minimize generators but if you need them then it
allows 

one to have more options. 

Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 

"we go where powerlines don't" 

 [5]http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/ [6] 

e-mail offgridso...@sti.net [7] 

text 209 813 0060 

Maybe. I designed my own house to incorporate this. The most
efficient are 

the vertical type, and at 6' the company advertised 20% recovery for
about 

$1,300 if I remember correctly. This I'm sure is for a new copper
pipe, 


Re: [RE-wrenches] GENERAC EcoGen 6kw problem

2018-01-09 Thread solar1online
Wrenches,

Kudos to Ray for "getting down to basics" May I suggest that my own
observations are that a comprehensive visual inspection of the
affected component can be the most valuable time spent diagnosing a
problem. 

Recently I was called in after five other techs had "looked" at the
power vented tank water heater and replaced numerous parts, all to no
avail. Simply looking at the installation under operation revealed
that condensate was not properly being drained from the heater. All
the onboard diagnostics could never have recognized what a simple
visual inspection offered. RTFM, understand what you have read and
execute those instructions to the letter. The end result,whether if be
for water or electric is a trouble free installation. An installation
that brings you more business and produces a happy customer.

Respectfully,

Bill Loesch
Solar 1
314 631 1094

-From: palumbo1...@gmail.com
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: 09-Jan-2018 21:19:00 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] GENERAC EcoGen 6kw problem

 Thank you all for your help. Ray gets the gold star long distance
diagnostics award as it was simply a thin layer of ice underneath the
air cleaner. I cleared that out and it started right up and ran in
good shape.
 Dave

 Sent from my iPhone

 > On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:35 PM, Chris Mason  wrote:
 > 
 > If the unit is still under warranty, have any Generac dealer run
through
 > the diagnostics. The testing flow suggests rotor or stator
problems, and
 > there is a proscribed testing flow that needs to be performed. If
it is
 > determined to be a warranty issue, it will be fixed for you at no
cost.
 > If it is not under warranty, I would still have a dealer look at
it. There
 > are a large number of possible issues and you are going to spend a
lot of
 > time trying to find the problem. A Generac tech will likely find
the
 > problem in a few minutes unless it is a serious problem, in which
case you
 > were never going to find it.
 > I'm a Generac tech so I can speak from some experience that this is
likely
 > not a simple issue.
 > 
 >> On Mon, Jan 8, 2018 at 8:13 PM, David Palumbo  wrote:
 >> 
 >> I am troubleshooting a 6kw EcoGen LP gas generator in my
neighborhood that
 >> starts quickly
 >> • but immediately shuts down with an “Under Voltage”
shutdown alarm
 >> • I can clear shutdown alarm and restart with same result. I
tried this a
 >> few times with same result. One of the start attempts included a
back fire
 >> before shutting down.
 >> • Generator was recently run successfully for a few hours during
a cold
 >> snap. Started after several attempts at -10 F.
 >> • According to the EcoGen manual this Under Voltage alarm is
triggered “If
 >> the generator voltage falls below 85% of nominal for more than 15
 >> seconds”. This definitely isn’t happening as the generator
starts as usual
 >> but shuts down within one or two seconds.
 >> I will check for fouled spark plugs tomorrow. Anything else that
might be
 >> the problem?
 >> 
 >> David Palumbo
 >> Independent Power LLC
 >> Hyde Park, VT
 >> 802-371-8678 voice or text
 >> 
 >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
 >> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] DC-DC converter question

2017-12-19 Thread solar1online
Allen, John, et al,
Aren't DC-DC converters a mainstay of Solar Converters, Inc. product
line? 
Just to toss another manufacturer into the mix.
Stay warm, stay safe,
Bill Loesch
Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
314 631 1094

-From: "John Blittersdorf" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: 19-Dec-2017 11:54:47 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] DC-DC converter question

 Allan,
 I have used the Mean-well converters several times and have had good
 luck. My other choice would be an Iota but definitely more expensive.

 John Blittersdorf
 Rob Stubbins Solar

 On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 1:29 AM Sindelar Solar 
 wrote:

 > Wrenches,
 > The time has come to upgrade a longtime client's 1985 12V system
and
 > original Trace 1512 inverter. The inverter still works fine after
32
 > years of continuous operation, but 12V is too limited to allow much
 > expansion. The power system has numerous 12V loads - mostly
lighting
 > throughout the home, as the 12V SunFrost fridge will also be
replaced,
 > so a 24-12 step-down DC-DC converter is part of the upgrade.
 >
 > Is there any reason that I shouldn't use a Mean Well RSD-300B-12
 > (https://www.trcelectronics.com/ecomm/pdf/rsd300.pdf) [1] wouldn't
fill the
 > bill? I'm familiar with this brand, as they were used for years by
Array
 > Technologies to step down voltage to run tracker drives, and I have
 > never known (or heard of on this list) of a failure. The price is
right
 > too at a bit over $100.
 >
 > Any reviews, cautions, or other recommendations?
 > Thank you,
 > Allan
 > --
 >
 > *Allan Sindelar*
 > al...@sindelarsolar.com 
 > NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
 > New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
 > Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
 > *505 780-2738 cell*
 >
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar Water Heating Systems

2017-11-06 Thread solar1online
Hi Chris, Your question certainly generated a number of responses.
While the field applied covering I mentioned certainly peeled off and
had the consistency of latex paint, I did _not_ perform an analysis.
There is outdoor latex paint which should have UV inhibitors, so
perhaps it really was latex. The original owner is gone, so no help
there but a paint manufacturer may be able to verify latex paint as an
inexpensive _and effective_ covering solution. What made this solution
stand out in my mind so well was the flex roof flashings, which when
unprotected become brittle (and useless) oftentimes before the ten
year mark. This painted flashing was just as flexible as a new unit
and as you are well aware, replacing a solar flashing is way more
involved than a plumbing flashing. I am aware of many manufacturers
that rebrand/repackage a common item as a solution for a very specific
problem and charge an outlandish premium for the common item in a
shiny package (sometimes not even a shiny package). Bill

-From: "cwarfel" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: 06-Nov-2017 13:01:11 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar
Water Heating Systems

Hi Bill, thanks. I did not think latex would hold up anywhere near
that long. Chris

  On 11/4/2017 9:13 AM, solar1onl...@charter.net [1] wrote:

Chris, The fitted covers certainly provide a more finished
appearance. One of my customers painted the insulation (w/o fitted
covers) with latex paint and after 30+ years the insulation was still
quite flexible. My take away was simply that eliminating the sun (UV)
effects paid off big time. As I remember they used white paint. Best
wishes, Bill Loesch Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar 314 631 1094
-From: "Glenn Burt" To:
"RE-wrenches" Cc: Sent: 04-Nov-2017 00:21:14 + Subject: Re:
[RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar Water
Heating Systems How about the white PVC jacketing? You can buy fitted
elbow covers and other fitted parts as well. Probably paintable in any
color to blend into location. List-Archive: List-Archive:
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-- Christopher Warfel, PE Entech Engineering, Inc. 401-466-8978 

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar Water Heating Systems

2017-11-04 Thread solar1online
Chris,

The fitted covers certainly provide a more finished appearance. One of
my customers painted the insulation (w/o fitted covers) with latex
paint and after 30+ years the insulation was still quite flexible. My
take away was simply that eliminating the sun (UV) effects paid off
big time. As I remember they used white paint.

Best wishes,

Bill Loesch
Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
314 631 1094

-From: "Glenn Burt" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: 04-Nov-2017 00:21:14 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar
Water Heating Systems

 How about the white PVC jacketing? You can buy fitted elbow covers
and other fitted parts as well. Probably paintable in any color to
blend into location.

 List-Archive:  
 List-Archive:
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[RE-wrenches] Does anyone else have problems connecting with the links at the bottom of each email posting?

2017-10-15 Thread solar1online
Not necessarily the user included links but the list archive, rules,
and bio links?

Thanks,

Bill Loesch
Solar 1

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Hurricane damage to solar arrays

2017-09-15 Thread solar1online
Jason,
Thanks for the preliminary failure analysis of the latest hurricane
damage. Do you have any photos which shows the bent mounting plates
for the micros? Wouldn't that be an indication of the force applied
before something gave up? Good call to get new micros when the leads
and their attachments may have been compromised.
TIA,
Bill Loesch
Saint Louis, MO

-From: "Jason Szumlanski" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: 14-Sep-2017 20:26:09 +
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Hurricane damage to solar arrays

More early anecdotal data...   
   We are finding NO anchors pulled out of roofs, regardless of roof
type or attachment type. That is clearly not the failure point. We
also see no attachment to L-foot or L-foot to rail issues. And
contrary to my expectation, we see no t-bolt failures. What's
happening? The panels themselves are flexing (bowing) sufficiently to
work their way right out of the mid-clamps. This applies both to
Unirac's older 1-inch space clamps and newer 1/4 inch bonding
mid-clamps.   
   This attached pictured system had panels on a north roof pitched
very slightly to the south. We had northeast hurricane winds in this
area, and the way the wind went under these panels was obviously what
caused the panels themselves to fail. This is an essentially flat roof
commercial application. It was bad luck to have the wind direction
from the northeast corner (the NW edge of the eye wall passed right
over this area). But we are seeing similar results on residential
pitched hip and gable roofs in terms of the failure mode.   
   What's interesting is that there is no rhyme or reason to where in
the array we see damage. I have seen absolutely no catastrophic damage
on a residential roof - just one or 2 modules mostly. And the missing
module can be on the lower edge, upper edge, or right in the middle of
the array. More often than not, the t-bolt and mid-clamp assembly is
still sitting right there in the channel of the Unirac Solarmount
rail, but a module is missing. It's quite freaky.   
   And much like tornado damage I have seen on TV, houses adjacent to
each other have very different fates. We have a new community (100+
homes slated for solar) with about two dozen homes completed, and just
one home had a panel pop out in the middle of an array. It was gently
deposited onto the adjacent panel with absolutely no damage and the DC
leads still connected to the microinverter.   
   One issue we are facing is that when panels fly off, something has
to give with the DC leads to microinverters. No panel leads have been
broken so far. In most cases, the MC4 connectors simple un-snap
somehow - no loss of crimped connectors. We have a few cases of leads
ripped out of the microinverter case completely. The microinverter
bracket is badly bent on many microinverters, indicating that there
was tremendous force until something gave up. I am extremely hesitant
to reuse these microinverters because the force on the DC input leads
must have been huge. I think we are going to insist on microinverter
replacement when replacing modules in these cases.   
   Hopefully I will have more, but not too much more to come. It looks
like we did very well here (as an industry). There are spotty issues,
but it's far from the catastrophe that kept me up for multiple nights
before and after Irma. Then again, many people have not returned home
yet.   
​Jason Szumlanski   Florida Solar Design Group​

  On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 6:18 PM, Jason Szumlanski  wrote:
 I'm based in Fort Myers and we cover the hardest hit areas from
Irma. We are in the "stuff" right now, so I'll make this brief until I
have more time, which might be a while. We are seeing quite a bit of
minor damage and some major damage. We're getting calls from all
dealers' customers and a couple of our own clients. We have several
homes with one or two panels dislodged. There is no rhyme or reason.
Some are middle of arrays, some on edges. Panels are ripped right off
rails, leads ripped from microinverters. Strangely, it looks like the
panel j-box connection and MC4 connectors survived better than the
microinverter end of the DC leads. Amazingly, we have several panels
that were blown onto driveways, other roofs, and pool cages with NO
DAMAGE except frame scrapes. Very weird. We haven't seen a shattered
panel yet, but it's early.   
   I'm heading to a self-storage facility tomorrow where there are
three 25kw systems on different buildings. Two buildings are
unscathed. One building lost ALL of the panels apparently. Tornado?
Hard to say.   
   So far (other than the 25kw I have not evaluated) we have not seen
a single fastener pulled out. All of the failures are panel top and
mid clamps at this time. Anchor and rails remain intact. Possibly
installation errors? Possibly sheared off T-bolts? Hard to tell and we
may never fully know.   
   We generally require 48 inch spacing between anchors into trusses
for engineered 

Re: [RE-wrenches] New Washer - Old Inverter

2017-02-08 Thread solar1online
Lou,
You are getting great advice from the list. Yesterday's sinewave
inverter is not today's sinewave inverter. The washers are improved,
too, likely using an ECM motor today.
If the washer is the only holdout, have you considered a dedicated
high quality, high surge, 1800 watt inverter for just the washer?
Food for thought,
Bill Loesch
Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
314 631 1094

-From: "Lou Russo" 
To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: 08-Feb-2017 19:10:59 +
Subject: [RE-wrenches] New Washer - Old Inverter

  Aloha All,  
   I have a client with a old Trace 4024 on a APT center. Everything
has worked great for over 20 years. He purchased a new washing machine
from Sears that does not want to work. The voltage at the outlet is
117 vac and the Sears guy says that is the issue. When the system is
running on the genset (Northern Light 6kW Diesel) we get 121 vac and
the washer runs fine. That seems like a very tight voltage window and
a issue with the washer not the system. I have seen sensitive
electronics go wacky with no N-G bound maybe that is the issue? I did
not install the system so I would have go poke around. Any one out
there have any ideas?   

 Aloha,  
   Lou Russo   l...@spreesolarsystems.com [1]   440 345 6762   Spree
Solar Systems LLC   CT-34322   


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trina Module Annual Degradation

2015-07-18 Thread solar1online
boB,
Can you expand on the warranty coverage in this situation?
TIA,
Bill

-From: "b...@midnitesolar.com"

To: "RE-wrenches"
Cc: 
Sent: Thu, 16 Jul 2015 19:01:32 -0700
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trina Module Annual Degradation

 It's too bad that when a module goes to a REAL high degradation,
like, 
 100% down to nothing
 before that 25 year "warranty" is up, that it is NOT considered 
 degradation and is not covered
 under "warranty".

 P.S. This has nothing to do with Trina or any PV company in
particular.

 boB

 On 7/16/2015 6:24 PM, jay wrote:
 > HI Peter,
 >
 > I’ll bite.
 >
 > From the folks I know who deal with multi mega watt systems, are
seeing less than that level of degradation.
 >
 > That said, the standard module 25 yr warranty to 80% is just on .7%
year if I have my math correct.
 >
 > jay
 >
 > peltz power
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >> On Jul 16, 2015, at 9:08 AM, Peter Parrish  wrote:
 >>
 >> I have recently been in discussion with a company that builds a
large number
 >> of medium-sized PV ground mount system (30 kW to over 100 kW).
They claim
 >> that they have been seeing something on the order of 0.7% annual
degradation
 >> in the output of their systems due to intrinsic degradation in the
PV
 >> modules. They also claim that this number is supported by the PV
module
 >> manufacturer. Many years ago (2007?) I remember reading a report
containing
 >> data gathered by NREL that showed the number was about 0.4%, and I
thought
 >> the number was actually decreasing over time.
 >>
 >> The module in question is the Trina TSM-310 (PA14.8, I believe, if
it makes
 >> any difference).
 >>
 >> Has anyone read anything recent about annual degradation in
general or Trina
 >> modules in particular?
 >>
 >> - Peter
 >>
 >> Peter T. Parrish, Ph.D.
 >> President, SolarGnosis
 >> 1107 Fair Oaks Ave. Suite 351
 >> South Pasadena, CA 91030
 >> NABCEP Certified PV Installer #031806-26
 >> (323) 839-6108
 >> peter...@pobox.com
 >>
 >>

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