Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties alternative

2008-12-20 Thread ASAP POWER! 2
Hi Kirk,
Love it.  Sounds clean.  I think I understood your route.  Question, was
this a ground mount array or at significant tilt, and would these nifty
2-conductor clamps and SS screw attachment be just as easy to attach and
work with for flush roof mounted array wire management along rails?  I would
think so, since you could just gauge where the USE-2 wire w/ MC connector
ends need to be before the modules are placed.  Have you used them for
residential rooftop arrays?  

I like the Wiley SS clamps for module frames also, but do you have a part
number for the 2-hole weather-tite connector to the 1" FMC?  We always seem
to have trouble finding.

Do you have any pictures you could share?

Sincerely, 
Peter D.

Global Builders, Inc. - Renewable Energy Contractors (A,B 821587)
Escondido, California, USA
ASAP POWER! is "As Solar As Possible"
Oceanside, California, USA
Toll Free 866-724-3444
 
-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Kirk
Herander, VSE
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 4:22 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties alternative

I just wired a 50 kw array using Mcmaster-carr #7429K42 www.Mcmaster.com
uv-resistant cable clamps. They worked great, attached to the Unirac rail
with SS screws. Certainly much neater than tie-wraps. I was never able to
get tie wraps to look that good in any installation. These little clamps,
along with the acme SS clamps for the module frames that Wiley and others
sell, really made the wiring look good.
>From the point of connection to the module mc connectors, I attached my
USE-2 wire down the respective rack legs to a j-box, entering through a
2-hole weather-tite connector, then to 1" FMC to the fused combiner box,
then EMT to the respective inverter disconnect.

Kirk, VT Solar  

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:47 AM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

Tump,

Interesting. No AHJ on my job in NH. Just trying to comply with the intent
of the code and common sense. 
Next time, with the same AHJ, you might try using plumber's CVPS DWV pipe,
it's not conduit :-)

Dick



--- You wrote:
I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the correct
method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
tie straps.  AHJs..

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties


Fellow Wrenches,

For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
strapped loosely (to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack
rail with SS pipe clamps. 
The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
spacing of the module pigtails. 
The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
the conduit through the drilled holes. 
We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
folded and tucked into the conduit. 
The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
Grounding was by WEEB washers. 
This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
or clips. 
The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
directly into a metal junction box. 
EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.

Best,
Dick

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric
Bradford, VT




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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties alternative

2008-12-20 Thread Kirk Herander, VSE
I just wired a 50 kw array using Mcmaster-carr #7429K42 www.Mcmaster.com
uv-resistant cable clamps. They worked great, attached to the Unirac rail
with SS screws. Certainly much neater than tie-wraps. I was never able to
get tie wraps to look that good in any installation. These little clamps,
along with the acme SS clamps for the module frames that Wiley and others
sell, really made the wiring look good.
>From the point of connection to the module mc connectors, I attached my
USE-2 wire down the respective rack legs to a j-box, entering through a
2-hole weather-tite connector, then to 1" FMC to the fused combiner box,
then EMT to the respective inverter disconnect.

Kirk, VT Solar  

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 9:47 AM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

Tump,

Interesting. No AHJ on my job in NH. Just trying to comply with the intent
of
the code and common sense. 
Next time, with the same AHJ, you might try using plumber's CVPS DWV pipe,
it's
not conduit :-)

Dick



--- You wrote:
I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the correct
method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
tie straps.  AHJs..

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties


Fellow Wrenches,

For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
strapped loosely 
(to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
clamps. 
The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
spacing of the module pigtails. 
The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
the conduit through the drilled holes. 
We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
folded and tucked into the conduit. 
The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
Grounding was by WEEB washers. 
This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
or clips. 
The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
directly into a metal junction box. 
EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.

Best,
Dick

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric
Bradford, VT




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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

2008-12-16 Thread robert ellison
We have been putting the wires into hi temp split loom (nylon temp rating is
- 40 to 300 degrees) and using the rated ties to hold it all together. It is
not hot in this area and they seem to hold up fine. Ask me in another 10
years or so.
Generally we use 2 sizes of loom. and weave the smaller into the larger.
Never had any questions about it and it does make for a neat install. Not as
fast as SS clips but it gives the creatures another layer to dig through
before the wires are exposed.

Bob



On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 9:47 AM, Richard L Ratico <
richard.l.rat...@valley.net> wrote:

> Tump,
>
> Interesting. No AHJ on my job in NH. Just trying to comply with the intent
> of
> the code and common sense.
> Next time, with the same AHJ, you might try using plumber's CVPS DWV pipe,
> it's
> not conduit :-)
>
> Dick
>
>
>
> --- You wrote:
> I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the
> correct
> method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
> wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
> tie straps.  AHJs..
>
> -Original Message-
> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
> Ratico
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
> To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties
>
>
> Fellow Wrenches,
>
> For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
> strapped loosely
> (to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
> clamps.
> The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
> spacing of the module pigtails.
> The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
> the conduit through the drilled holes.
> We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
> folded and tucked into the conduit.
> The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
> Grounding was by WEEB washers.
> This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
> or clips.
> The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
> directly into a metal junction box.
> EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.
>
> Best,
> Dick
>
> Dick Ratico
> Solarwind Electric
> Bradford, VT
>
>
>
> You wrote;
>
> Chris,
>
> I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
> stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
> Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.
>
> Bill.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
> Worcester
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
> To: 'RE-wrenches'
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
> Hi all,
> We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
> heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
> systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
> shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
> packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years
> and
> plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last. It is an easy
> upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will probably install a
> lot quicker.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Chris Worcester
> NABCEP Certified PV Installer
> Phone: 530-582-4503
> Fax: 530-582-4603
> www.solarwindworks.com
> chris at solarwindworks.com
> "Proven Energy Solutions"
>
> -Original Message-
> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Clearwater, Village Power Design
> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
> Hi Bill and all,
>
> I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some
> time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life
> of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires
> drop onto the roof.
>
> But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones
> with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to
> pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.
>
> At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work
&

Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

2008-12-16 Thread Richard L Ratico
Tump,

Interesting. No AHJ on my job in NH. Just trying to comply with the intent of
the code and common sense. 
Next time, with the same AHJ, you might try using plumber's CVPS DWV pipe, it's
not conduit :-)

Dick



--- You wrote:
I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the correct
method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
tie straps.  AHJs..

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties


Fellow Wrenches,

For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
strapped loosely 
(to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
clamps. 
The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
spacing of the module pigtails. 
The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
the conduit through the drilled holes. 
We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
folded and tucked into the conduit. 
The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
Grounding was by WEEB washers. 
This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
or clips. 
The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
directly into a metal junction box. 
EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.

Best,
Dick

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric
Bradford, VT



You wrote;

Chris,

I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Worcester
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi all,
We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years and
plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last. It is an easy
upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will probably install a
lot quicker. 

Sincerely,

Chris Worcester
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Phone: 530-582-4503
Fax: 530-582-4603
www.solarwindworks.com
chris at solarwindworks.com
"Proven Energy Solutions"

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
Clearwater, Village Power Design
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.

But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.

At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.

On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.

I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.

I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.

I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an

Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

2008-12-16 Thread Tump
I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the correct
method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
tie straps.  AHJs..

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
Ratico
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties


Fellow Wrenches,

For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
strapped loosely 
(to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
clamps. 
The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
spacing of the module pigtails. 
The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
the conduit through the drilled holes. 
We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
folded and tucked into the conduit. 
The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
Grounding was by WEEB washers. 
This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
or clips. 
The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
directly into a metal junction box. 
EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.

Best,
Dick

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric
Bradford, VT



You wrote;

Chris,

I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Worcester
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi all,
We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years and
plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last. It is an easy
upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will probably install a
lot quicker. 

Sincerely,

Chris Worcester
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Phone: 530-582-4503
Fax: 530-582-4603
www.solarwindworks.com
chris at solarwindworks.com
"Proven Energy Solutions"

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
Clearwater, Village Power Design
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.

But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.

At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.

On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.

I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.

I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.

I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire 
handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.

Still waiting!

Thanks,

Jeff Clearwater
NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design
___
List sponsored by Home Power magazine

Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

2008-12-15 Thread Richard L Ratico
Fellow Wrenches,

For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
strapped loosely 
(to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
clamps. 
The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
spacing of the module pigtails. 
The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into the
conduit through the drilled holes. 
We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was folded
and tucked into the conduit. 
The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables. Grounding
was by WEEB washers. 
This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps or
clips. 
The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot directly
into a metal junction box. 
EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.

Best,
Dick

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric
Bradford, VT



You wrote;

Chris,

I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Worcester
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi all,
We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years and
plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last.
It is an easy upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will
probably install a lot quicker. 

Sincerely,

Chris Worcester
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Phone: 530-582-4503
Fax: 530-582-4603
www.solarwindworks.com
chris at solarwindworks.com
"Proven Energy Solutions"

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
Clearwater, Village Power Design
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.

But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.

At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.

On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.

I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.

I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.

I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire 
handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.

Still waiting!

Thanks,

Jeff Clearwater
NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design
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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-12 Thread Bill Brooks
Chris,

I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Worcester
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi all,
We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years and
plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last.
It is an easy upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will
probably install a lot quicker. 

Sincerely,

Chris Worcester
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Phone: 530-582-4503
Fax: 530-582-4603
www.solarwindworks.com
ch...@solarwindworks.com
"Proven Energy Solutions"

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
Clearwater, Village Power Design
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.

But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.

At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.

On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.

I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.

I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.

I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire 
handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.

Still waiting!

Thanks,

Jeff Clearwater
NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design




>Folks,
>
>I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have caused
>numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
>UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as necessary.
>Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have ground
>faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over time
and
>replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people have to be
>shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make sure
they
>are not getting them too tight.
>
>Bill.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
>[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of William
>Miller
>Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
>To: RE-wrenches
>Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
>Kent:
>
>To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from
>clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This
>tightens tie and hides sharp end.
>
>See
>http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html
>for photos.
>
>Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.
>
>William
>
>
>At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>>Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths
>>
>>http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242
>>
>>For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to
>>tighten them.
>>
>>Kent Osterberg
>>B

Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-12 Thread Chris Worcester
Hi all,
We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years and
plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last.
It is an easy upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will
probably install a lot quicker. 

Sincerely,

Chris Worcester
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Phone: 530-582-4503
Fax: 530-582-4603
www.solarwindworks.com
ch...@solarwindworks.com
"Proven Energy Solutions"

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
Clearwater, Village Power Design
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.

But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.

At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.

On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.

I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.

I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.

I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire 
handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.

Still waiting!

Thanks,

Jeff Clearwater
NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design




>Folks,
>
>I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have caused
>numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
>UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as necessary.
>Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have ground
>faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over time
and
>replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people have to be
>shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make sure
they
>are not getting them too tight.
>
>Bill.
>
>-Original Message-
>From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
>[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of William
>Miller
>Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
>To: RE-wrenches
>Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
>Kent:
>
>To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from
>clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This
>tightens tie and hides sharp end.
>
>See
>http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html
>for photos.
>
>Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.
>
>William
>
>
>At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>>Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths
>>
>>http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242
>>
>>For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to
>>tighten them.
>>
>>Kent Osterberg
>>Blue Mountain Solar
>
>
>___
>List sponsored by Home Power magazine
>
>List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
>
>Options & settings:
>http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
>List-Archive:
>http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
>List rules & etiquette:
>www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm
>
>Check out participant bios:
>www.members.

Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-11 Thread Jeff Clearwater, Village Power Design

Hi Bill and all,

I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some 
time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life 
of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires 
drop onto the roof.


But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones 
with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to 
pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.


At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work 
that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the 
contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking 
system.


On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by 
splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a 
self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the 
split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the 
wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this 
method way back on this list and at 
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor 
rated wire anyway.


I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the 
split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered 
by the code but I see no inherent violation.


I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into 
their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many 
places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.


I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the 
first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire 
handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.


Still waiting!

Thanks,

Jeff Clearwater
NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design





Folks,

I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have caused
numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as necessary.
Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have ground
faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over time and
replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people have to be
shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make sure they
are not getting them too tight.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of William
Miller
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Kent:

To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from
clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This
tightens tie and hides sharp end.

See
http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html
for photos.

Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.

William


At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:

Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242

For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to
tighten them.

Kent Osterberg
Blue Mountain Solar



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--
~
Jeff Clearwater
Senior Design Engineer
NABCEP (tm) Certified Solar PV Installer
http://www.nabcep.org/
Village Power Design/NorthEast Solar Design
Turnkey Solar Design & Installation for the Commercial Sector
http://www.villagepower.com
goso...@villagepower.com

Voice: 413-259-3750
Fax: 413-825-0703
65 Schoolhouse Rd
Amherst, MA 01002
~
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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-11 Thread Mark Frye
Bill,

I am more in your camp.  SS ties look like cutting knifes to me.

A lot of the worry over plastic comes from the folks in New Mexico. What
they have there is a "parching" environment more that trouble with UV.

I use the Panduit cable tie with the "-120" suffix, weather resistant nylon
12. Their data shows 12-15 year life expectancy.  Most of these ties are
actually protected from direct sunlight and weather, so I think they have a
fighting chance in most environments.  

Mark Frye
Berkeley Solar Electric Systems
303 Redbud Way
Nevada City,  CA 95959
(530) 401-8024
www.berkeleysolar.com 

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Bill Brooks
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 5:53 PM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Folks,

I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have caused
numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as necessary.
Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have ground
faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over time and
replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people have to be
shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make sure they
are not getting them too tight.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of William
Miller
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Kent:

To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from clasp.
3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This tightens
tie and hides sharp end.

See
http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html
for photos.

Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.

William


At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths
>
>http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242
>
>For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult 
>to tighten them.
>
>Kent Osterberg
>Blue Mountain Solar


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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-11 Thread jay peltz

Hi Bill,

I have seen some real problems too but they have lots of uses beyond  
just supporting wires.


Thanks,

jay

peltz power
On Dec 11, 2008, at 5:53 PM, Bill Brooks wrote:


Folks,

I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have  
caused

numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as  
necessary.
Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have  
ground
faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over  
time and
replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people  
have to be
shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make  
sure they

are not getting them too tight.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of  
William

Miller
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Kent:

To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from
clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can  
lid.  This

tightens tie and hides sharp end.

See
http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html
for photos.

Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.

William


At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:

Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242

For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is  
difficult to

tighten them.

Kent Osterberg
Blue Mountain Solar



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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-11 Thread Bill Brooks
Folks,

I'm a bit sour on SS ties. These are easy to overtighten and have caused
numerous ground faults in the field. My recommendation is to use
UV-resistant black wire ties and install 2-3 times as many as necessary.
Sure some will fail over time, but we are much less likely to have ground
faults, and proper O&M says that we maintain the wire supports over time and
replace broken ties as need. Proper tension is a must and people have to be
shown how to do it properly and checked up on in the field to make sure they
are not getting them too tight.

Bill.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of William
Miller
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:52 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

Kent:

To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from 
clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This 
tightens tie and hides sharp end.

See 
http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html 
for photos.

Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.

William


At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:
>Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths
>
>http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242
>
>For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to 
>tighten them.
>
>Kent Osterberg
>Blue Mountain Solar


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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-10 Thread William Miller

Kent:

To tighten:  1. Pull tie snug by hand.  2. Cut tail about 20 mm from 
clasp.  3. Roll tail with needle-nose pliers, like a sardine can lid.  This 
tightens tie and hides sharp end.


See 
http://mpandc.com/practices/Technical_Procedures/PV_wiring/PV_wiring.html 
for photos.


Do not over-tighten to avoid wire damage.

William


At 09:25 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:

Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242

For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to 
tighten them.


Kent Osterberg
Blue Mountain Solar



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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-10 Thread Kent Osterberg

Fastenal has stainless ties is various lengths

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0710242

For those that haven't used these before, beware that it is difficult to 
tighten them.


Kent Osterberg
Blue Mountain Solar

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Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties

2008-12-10 Thread William Miller

Jay:


Waytekwire.com

William


At 04:15 PM 12/10/2008, you wrote:

Where do you get these SS zip ties.

I have seen them and think they would work in some applications.

thanks,

jay

peltz power
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