[Repeater-Builder] 6 ft. cabinet wanted
Looking for a 6 ft. Motorola base station cabinet with lockable doors for a repeater project. Within driving distance of Lexington, Ky. please. Thanks! Mike Pugh KA4MKG Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 220 Repeater
k4ij wrote: I am looking for a radio for my 220 repeater project. Just need the radio, have everything else. I would prefer something already on band. Something that is already converted is fine such as a Micor or Mastr II. If I don't find something I will do the conversion but want to check to see if someone might have one that would save some time. This will be used in a high RF environment and on a mountain top. If you have something drop me a line to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Scotty will build you whatever you want. Personally, I prefer the Micor for the conversion to 220, especially since we perfected the X18 method for the exciter. http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/custombuilt.html Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Seperation
At 10:47 AM 1/16/05, you wrote: I am sure this has been asked before, but I did a search archive on the subject and came up with 0. I have a GR 300 repeater with no duplexer, so I need 2 antennas. I tried a Larson mobile antenna w/ the ground radials as the receive antenna and the same for the tx antenna. These are mounted on a Station Master type antenna tube (the guts were pulled out because it was untunable for 2 meters). The rx ant at the top and the tx ant at the bottom, about 12' to 14' separation. The system would talk to it self. I removed the tx ant and replaced with a 4 ele yagi - works good. I need a omni ant for both rx and tx. I have an Isolator on the tx and a Bp cavity and a circulator on the rx. Why would it desense with one ant and not the other ant? I know the idea behind the yagi and the mobile ant. But they both have rf going vertical. I need to have minimal separation without it talking to it self. Your ideas? Thank you. Rod First you do not have enough isolation. Your antennas are too close. You will probably end up using two antennas separated by a LOT more space. Look at http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/separation.html, and the other repeater antenna articles at www.repeater-builder.com Second, what kind of feedline are you using? Unless it's 100% shielded (and don't mean 99%, I mean 100.000%) there will be some leakage. If the two feedlines are side-by-side up the tower, and are at all leaky, you have a long, narrow, coupling path. Been there. I helped a beginner who had put up a 2m repeater in his garage with two long runs of CB-grade RG-8... to two antennas at 40' and 70' on his dad's HF tower... and wondered why it desensed itself. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 6 ft. cabinet wanted
Mike - I am not sure what you call driving distance - I am in Clinton Missouri West Central part of the state. 4 hours hard driving from St. Louis. Have a pretty nice one. Dave / NØATH Looking for a 6 ft. Motorola base station cabinet with lockable doors for a repeater project. Within driving distance of Lexington, Ky. please. Thanks! Mike Pugh KA4MKG Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] tait t2010
would anyone know of a way to drive a small npn or pnp transistor from the 14-4 pin on the logic board Thank you Ian Wells Kerinvale Comaudio mail service 1017, Biloela,4715. www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 6 ft. cabinet wanted
cabinet 6ft mike we have 3 micor indoor cabinets mint condx $75 pickup bring a large truck driving time about 6 hours we'l be here. mdmMike Pugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Looking for a 6 ft. Motorola base station cabinet with lockable doors for a repeater project. Within driving distance of Lexington, Ky. please.Thanks! Mike Pugh KA4MKGYahoo! Groups Links* To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Ted Bleiman K9MDM MDM Radio Ltd - 1629-B N. 31 st Ave Melrose Park, IL 60160 708.681.0300 fax 708.681.9800 web http://www.mdmradio.com - Check it now!! Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! Get yours free! Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 Repeater
Mike, I can give you a very positive reference for the repeater-builder 220 Micor conversions that Scott Z does. We purchased one for our 220 machine here in Philadelphia two years ago. We only had to go back to the site once within a few days to touch up centering the receive crystal which is normal for a first time implementation. Absolutely zero problems since. Very hot receiver and a good 25-30 watts out of the modified PA. They have certainly perfected the method. If you are in a low RF environment, I use the old Midland 13-513 (the synthesized model, NOT the crystal 509) as a repeater receiver on another one of my machines with very good sensitivity and overall results. I have also use the crystal 509 as a 1 watt exciter on the TX side. Steve K3PHL Philadelphia 224.180 PL 127.3 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k4ij [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am looking for a radio for my 220 repeater project. Just need the radio, have everything else. I would prefer something already on band. Something that is already converted is fine such as a Micor or Mastr II. If I don't find something I will do the conversion but want to check to see if someone might have one that would save some time. This will be used in a high RF enviroment and on a mountain top. If you have something drop me a line to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73 Mike K4IJ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Cold wx effect on COS / GE Mastr II ?
Had a strange thing happen today. Repeater wouldn't respond today...so I went to the site. Noticed the COS light was on...but nothing coming through the local speaker. Checked voltage at the repeater itself and it was showing 9 + volts. Disconnected the cable between the controller and the control head (using a converted GE Mastr II mobile and getting connections out of the control head). Still had voltage. Had a hard time of rxing a signal into the repeater itself. Almost sounded off freq. Had to get in real close to the rx port (disconnected from the cans) to get a clean signal in. Using a 5c Icom and it was 20 to 25deg.s outside. Probably 30 to 35 in the shack (great insullation...no heat). Ran home got a hair dryer. Put the volt meter on the CAS pin...still showing voltage...2 seconds of a hot hair dryer...went to zero volts. Took the Icom and put it in front of a fan to cool it down...got it real cold...put it back in...voltage stayed the same..zero. Worked fine after this. Left the shack and it had gotten to about 50 deg.s in the shack by that time. Realize the Icom is probably not the problembut any ideas? Thanks, Robert Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
Hello Group, I have read the messages and heard the debates about using LMR-400 or 99/13 type cables with aluminum foil mixed with tinned copper braid, and the duplex noise it presents when used on the output of the duplexer to the antenna. I have tried to stay away from this since I got serious about higher powered ( 110 watt) transmitters used for duplex service. I recently ran across a pile of LMR-400 DB I believe it's called, it has a sticky substance throughout and is said to be water tight. I used a 90 foot piece of this cable on a VHF repeater running ~ 80 watts out of the duplexer and feeding a very reliable, duplex noise free antenna on the tower. I couldn't believe the duplex noise I get from somewhere, and I am thinking it's the cable itself. When injecting a signal through a directional coupler, I am receiving ~ 0.25 uV for 20 dB SINAD while running full power. But each time I even think about touching the feedline, a ton of noise occurs (better than 30 dB of duplex noise). I have tried both crimp on and compression N-type connectors but no difference. The duplexer is a new Wacom with 214 interconnect cables. Can this LMR-400 really be the cause of noise this bad? There are two pagers (152.480 and 158.700) about 1/2 mile from the site. No other transmitters besides a few UHF repeaters. Everything at the site has an isolator on the transmitter output, including my 2M repeater. Something is arc'ing somewhere. Any suggestions besides changing the entire feedline to something more reliable, such as 1/2 inch Heliax or hardline without braid? Thanks, KC4FWC Derek. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
Derek, Give the LMR-400 to someone who is not running Duplex. Pick up some Andrews Heliax. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: derek_mcintyre [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 12:40 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Hello Group, I have read the messages and heard the debates about using LMR-400 or 99/13 type cables with aluminum foil mixed with tinned copper braid, and the duplex noise it presents when used on the output of the duplexer to the antenna. I have tried to stay away from this since I got serious about higher powered ( 110 watt) transmitters used for duplex service. I recently ran across a pile of LMR-400 DB I believe it's called, it has a sticky substance throughout and is said to be water tight. I used a 90 foot piece of this cable on a VHF repeater running ~ 80 watts out of the duplexer and feeding a very reliable, duplex noise free antenna on the tower. I couldn't believe the duplex noise I get from somewhere, and I am thinking it's the cable itself. When injecting a signal through a directional coupler, I am receiving ~ 0.25 uV for 20 dB SINAD while running full power. But each time I even think about touching the feedline, a ton of noise occurs (better than 30 dB of duplex noise). I have tried both crimp on and compression N-type connectors but no difference. The duplexer is a new Wacom with 214 interconnect cables. Can this LMR-400 really be the cause of noise this bad? There are two pagers (152.480 and 158.700) about 1/2 mile from the site. No other transmitters besides a few UHF repeaters. Everything at the site has an isolator on the transmitter output, including my 2M repeater. Something is arc'ing somewhere. Any suggestions besides changing the entire feedline to something more reliable, such as 1/2 inch Heliax or hardline without braid? Thanks, KC4FWC Derek. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
The short, terse answers to these types of questions should be ignored, and you should try it out yourself. If it works, great! If you have problems, get rid of it and try something else. This is what makes ham radio fun. Steve WA6ZFT From: John J. Riddell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/01/17 Mon PM 12:59:29 EST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Derek, Give the LMR-400 to someone who is not running Duplex. Pick up some Andrews Heliax. John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: derek_mcintyre [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 12:40 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Hello Group, I have read the messages and heard the debates about using LMR-400 or 99/13 type cables with aluminum foil mixed with tinned copper braid, and the duplex noise it presents when used on the output of the duplexer to the antenna. I have tried to stay away from this since I got serious about higher powered ( 110 watt) transmitters used for duplex service. I recently ran across a pile of LMR-400 DB I believe it's called, it has a sticky substance throughout and is said to be water tight. I used a 90 foot piece of this cable on a VHF repeater running ~ 80 watts out of the duplexer and feeding a very reliable, duplex noise free antenna on the tower. I couldn't believe the duplex noise I get from somewhere, and I am thinking it's the cable itself. When injecting a signal through a directional coupler, I am receiving ~ 0.25 uV for 20 dB SINAD while running full power. But each time I even think about touching the feedline, a ton of noise occurs (better than 30 dB of duplex noise). I have tried both crimp on and compression N-type connectors but no difference. The duplexer is a new Wacom with 214 interconnect cables. Can this LMR-400 really be the cause of noise this bad? There are two pagers (152.480 and 158.700) about 1/2 mile from the site. No other transmitters besides a few UHF repeaters. Everything at the site has an isolator on the transmitter output, including my 2M repeater. Something is arc'ing somewhere. Any suggestions besides changing the entire feedline to something more reliable, such as 1/2 inch Heliax or hardline without braid? Thanks, KC4FWC Derek. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
I'd be willing to bet your noise problem is site related and has nothing to do with the feedline. Rusty wires and rusty metal can cause micro-arcing just like the shield/braid problem in the LMR400 cable, especially in windy conditions. The problem is your options are limited in trying to find and fix these noise sources. With the system being noisy and you physical present at the site, cap off the feed line at the antenna with a dummy load and check for noise. If there's still noise, It could be the feedline, duplexer or a repeater TX problem. If the dummy load trick eliminates the noise, Try using a separate antenna for RX and TX, and run them into the cans without the T connector. If you can get some decent vertical separation (40ft.) , this might be worth a try. This will provide more isolation from locally generated noise. Steve WA6ZFT From: derek_mcintyre [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/01/17 Mon PM 12:40:14 EST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Hello Group, I have read the messages and heard the debates about using LMR-400 or 99/13 type cables with aluminum foil mixed with tinned copper braid, and the duplex noise it presents when used on the output of the duplexer to the antenna. I have tried to stay away from this since I got serious about higher powered ( 110 watt) transmitters used for duplex service. I recently ran across a pile of LMR-400 DB I believe it's called, it has a sticky substance throughout and is said to be water tight. I used a 90 foot piece of this cable on a VHF repeater running ~ 80 watts out of the duplexer and feeding a very reliable, duplex noise free antenna on the tower. I couldn't believe the duplex noise I get from somewhere, and I am thinking it's the cable itself. When injecting a signal through a directional coupler, I am receiving ~ 0.25 uV for 20 dB SINAD while running full power. But each time I even think about touching the feedline, a ton of noise occurs (better than 30 dB of duplex noise). I have tried both crimp on and compression N-type connectors but no difference. The duplexer is a new Wacom with 214 interconnect cables. Can this LMR-400 really be the cause of noise this bad? There are two pagers (152.480 and 158.700) about 1/2 mile from the site. No other transmitters besides a few UHF repeaters. Everything at the site has an isolator on the transmitter output, including my 2M repeater. Something is arc'ing somewhere. Any suggestions besides changing the entire feedline to something more reliable, such as 1/2 inch Heliax or hardline without braid? Thanks, KC4FWC Derek. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR 2000 Base Station
Hi Larry, Are there any cards you might need for a Micor station? We could trade. ??? Neil [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a few of the MSR-2000 Squelch Gate Modules available, if you need one (provides the COS signal for an MSR-2000 Repeater). LJ Original Message: - From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:04:21 - To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR 2000 Base Station Hi Will, I've done one or two... Base station implies the MSR was originally used in simplex (non repeat operation). If you want to convert a prewired duplex base station, there are a number of coversions around, including mine on the www.radiowrench.com/sonic web page as well as one or two on the repeater builder site. A simple rule of thumb... look at the antenna coax connector(s). One coax connector is a base station (unless you spot an internal duplexer). Two coax connectors imply a duplex unit, most often a repeater. If you have the single coax port msr, read on... Depends on which base station you have. If your base has the duplex back plane, you're looking at wires jumpers and modules... plus a serious amount of time. The duplex back plane will operate as a repeater without an external controller. If you have the non-duplex backplane, your're looking at a bit of serious technical work, a lot more wires, jumpers and maybe modules. The non-duplex back plane conversion will require an external controller. This conversion is not for the faint of heart... (ie short tempers). The new antenna lead connections much be made with high quality coax. I used to hunt down and use the original chassis mount SO-239 with the matching hood, but an in line connector will work. cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Has anyone converted an MSR2000 base to repeater configuration? I am wondering what the conversion would entail. Will KC4YBZ Yahoo! Groups Links mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Back Plane help
Is there a site some where that can help me mod a back plane ? this is a Micor VHF back plane there has been 220 mods done to the RX and TX boards but I go to do a tune up and I don't know whats wrong .. One of the things to do is un squelch the audio and I get nothing .. so any and all help would be great .. I would rather not re invent the wheel when some one has don't it before .. I have the Micor base and repeater control and application manual but its confuse'n again thanks for any and all help in this matter Rick Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120 Lakefield Ont Canada -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.13 - Release Date: 1/16/2005 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
I didn't think that the answer was short and terse. If one has the coax already and is going to try it on a low profile site, that's one thing. However, I hate to see someone go out and buy new LMR-XXX cable only to discover that they should have spent their money on something a bit better for not that much more money. Can you get away running LMR or 9913 type cable on a repeater? Maybe. Just don't be too disappointed if you find it doesn't work well. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 1:05 PM Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? The short, terse answers to these types of questions should be ignored, and you should try it out yourself. If it works, great! If you have problems, get rid of it and try something else. This is what makes ham radio fun. Steve WA6ZFT From: John J. Riddell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/01/17 Mon PM 12:59:29 EST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Derek, Give the LMR-400 to someone who is not running Duplex. Pick up some Andrews Heliax. John VE3AMZ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
Hello Group, I have read the messages and heard the debates about using LMR-400 or 99/13 type cables with aluminum foil mixed with tinned copper braid, and the duplex noise it presents when used on the output of the duplexer to the antenna. I have tried to stay away from this since I got serious about higher powered ( 110 watt) transmitters used for duplex service. I recently ran across a pile of LMR-400 DB I believe it's called, it has a sticky substance throughout and is said to be water tight. I used a 90 foot piece of this cable on a VHF repeater running ~ 80 watts out of the duplexer and feeding a very reliable, duplex noise free antenna on the tower. I couldn't believe the duplex noise I get from somewhere, and I am thinking it's the cable itself. When injecting a signal through a directional coupler, I am receiving ~ 0.25 uV for 20 dB SINAD while running full power. But each time I even think about touching the feedline, a ton of noise occurs (better than 30 dB of duplex noise). I have tried both crimp on and compression N-type connectors but no difference. The duplexer is a new Wacom with 214 interconnect cables. Can this LMR-400 really be the cause of noise this bad? There are two pagers (152.480 and 158.700) about 1/2 mile from the site. No other transmitters besides a few UHF repeaters. Everything at the site has an isolator on the transmitter output, including my 2M repeater. Something is arc'ing somewhere. Any suggestions besides changing the entire feedline to something more reliable, such as 1/2 inch Heliax or hardline without braid? Thanks, KC4FWC Derek. The fact that it comes up or changes when you touch the feedline answers that the problem is the feedline, or a connector. You will almost assuredly have to replace the feedline. And btw, there's no such thing as hardline *with* braid, as what makes it hardline is that it has a solid metal outer sheild, so a braid would have no effect. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR 2000 / Micor Squelch Gate Module
The micor and msr2000 squelch gate module are the same card with different end connections. You can swap/replace the end pins/connectors with parts removed from spare modules and save $$. cheers, skipp Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Larry, Are there any cards you might need for a Micor station? We could trade. ??? Neil [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a few of the MSR-2000 Squelch Gate Modules available, if you need one (provides the COS signal for an MSR-2000 Repeater). LJ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Adjacent Channel Noise, how far should it be heard
I had something brought to my attention yesterday on my 2 meter repeater. ABout 15 miles away, I'm being told that my repeater can be heard on the output for about 20 to 25 Khz away. From what I am told, it is not legitable, but it's there. The transmitter is a Majorrie Hi-Pro running about 2.5 watts and the PA is a Vocom 200 Watts. I'm getting right about 165 watts out of the duplexer, fed through 7/8 hardline 160' to the top of the tower into a Diamond Dual Band Antenna with a vsr of 1.1 with 1/10 of watt reflected. Is this normal, or is there a problem. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Adjacent Channel Noise, how far should it be heard
What does the repeater output signal look like on a spectrum analyzer ?? That's the only way to tell if something is wrong with the transmit signal. It cannot simply be determined by what someone else observes on their radio. Ron WW8RR -Original Message- From: w9mwq [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 4:09 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Adjacent Channel Noise, how far should it be heard I had something brought to my attention yesterday on my 2 meter repeater. ABout 15 miles away, I'm being told that my repeater can be heard on the output for about 20 to 25 Khz away. From what I am told, it is not legitable, but it's there. The transmitter is a Majorrie Hi-Pro running about 2.5 watts and the PA is a Vocom 200 Watts. I'm getting right about 165 watts out of the duplexer, fed through 7/8 hardline 160' to the top of the tower into a Diamond Dual Band Antenna with a vsr of 1.1 with 1/10 of watt reflected. Is this normal, or is there a problem. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Adjacent Channel Noise, how far should it be heard
I had something brought to my attention yesterday on my 2 meter repeater. ABout 15 miles away, I'm being told that my repeater can be heard on the output for about 20 to 25 Khz away. From what I am told, it is not legitable, but it's there. The transmitter is a Majorrie Hi-Pro running about 2.5 watts and the PA is a Vocom 200 Watts. I'm getting right about 165 watts out of the duplexer, fed through 7/8 hardline 160' to the top of the tower into a Diamond Dual Band Antenna with a vsr of 1.1 with 1/10 of watt reflected. Is this normal, or is there a problem. Hmm, must be that big amplifiersend it to me and I'll see what I can do for you *grins* Before worrying too much about your equipment, I have to ask what the test method is. Being heard on what? Not legible but being there, that is a tough one to quantify. If you don't have access to more test equipment, you can probably try tuning around on the radio and see if you are being heard from center channel out every 5hz to 20 or 25khz either or both sides, or if you just pop up 25khz away. I've seen poor cavities and/or turning make the same thing happen on a specific frequency 20khz away over 15 miles and it was readable. Unfortunately it was on the output of another repeater. One little tweak on the cans and we could make the spur move up and down. First step was to move it where it wasn't a conflict with any local repeater, Second step was a return trip with new cans. The cans in place were surplus BpBr of an unknown manufacturer, so we couldn't get design specs on them. Of course a spectrum analyzer would be handy, but first I'd see if I was all over the place by listening 5khz at a time or if it is just a spur at one location. Good Luck! Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff?
No offense intended. The guy had the cable so he had nothing to lose other than his time to try it out. Steve WA6ZFT From: Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/01/17 Mon PM 03:02:45 EST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? I didn't think that the answer was short and terse. If one has the coax already and is going to try it on a low profile site, that's one thing. However, I hate to see someone go out and buy new LMR-XXX cable only to discover that they should have spent their money on something a bit better for not that much more money. Can you get away running LMR or 9913 type cable on a repeater? Maybe. Just don't be too disappointed if you find it doesn't work well. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 1:05 PM Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? The short, terse answers to these types of questions should be ignored, and you should try it out yourself. If it works, great! If you have problems, get rid of it and try something else. This is what makes ham radio fun. Steve WA6ZFT From: John J. Riddell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/01/17 Mon PM 12:59:29 EST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplex noise/LMR-400 w/sticky stuff? Derek, Give the LMR-400 to someone who is not running Duplex. Pick up some Andrews Heliax. John VE3AMZ Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Back Plane help
Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR wrote: Is there a site some where that can help me mod a [micor] back plane ? http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/stationmod.html Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Adjacent Channel Noise, how far should it be heard
Well I have not done any testing at this point as it was brought to my attention just last night. I'm heading to work in a bit, but will be able to check it out tomorrow. I do have a spectrum analyzer, still learning to use it, but with help could figure it out. I will check a few things in the morning and see what I come up with and get back with everyone. Thanks. Mathew I had something brought to my attention yesterday on my 2 meter repeater. ABout 15 miles away, I'm being told that my repeater can be heard on the output for about 20 to 25 Khz away. From what I am told, it is not legitable, but it's there. The transmitter is a Majorrie Hi-Pro running about 2.5 watts and the PA is a Vocom 200 Watts. I'm getting right about 165 watts out of the duplexer, fed through 7/8 hardline 160' to the top of the tower into a Diamond Dual Band Antenna with a vsr of 1.1 with 1/10 of watt reflected. Is this normal, or is there a problem. Hmm, must be that big amplifiersend it to me and I'll see what I can do for you *grins* Before worrying too much about your equipment, I have to ask what the test method is. Being heard on what? Not legible but being there, that is a tough one to quantify. If you don't have access to more test equipment, you can probably try tuning around on the radio and see if you are being heard from center channel out every 5hz to 20 or 25khz either or both sides, or if you just pop up 25khz away. I've seen poor cavities and/or turning make the same thing happen on a specific frequency 20khz away over 15 miles and it was readable. Unfortunately it was on the output of another repeater. One little tweak on the cans and we could make the spur move up and down. First step was to move it where it wasn't a conflict with any local repeater, Second step was a return trip with new cans. The cans in place were surplus BpBr of an unknown manufacturer, so we couldn't get design specs on them. Of course a spectrum analyzer would be handy, but first I'd see if I was all over the place by listening 5khz at a time or if it is just a spur at one location. Good Luck! Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] LDF5-50a
Try their web site http://www.polyphaser.com/ I recalled a book they gave away on grounding, but I will say this from a Electrical Instructor... When in doubt ground the out of it ! The web site has some interesting info at Technical Docs. part some good reading there. the Engineering Notes I see that there are some interesting thoughts, worth the visit . M. H. - Original Message - From: Fred Seamans [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] LDF5-50a If you want to read a short paper on Lighting Protection and learn; obtain a GE paper on Living with Lighting by Kenneth Guthrie. After Ken retired from GE, he taught a course at George Washington University on Lighting Protection. Ken has passed away some years ago but his works still remain an authority on lighting. Transmission lines should be grounded at four major points: 1. At the top of the tower 2. Just above the bend where the line leaves the tower 3. At the entrance to the equipment building (A Polyphasor or similar device here will help discharge any high voltage on the center conductor of the transmission line) 4. At the equipment end of the line The grounds on the tower are short and always directed down to be connected to the tower. The grounds at the entrance to the equipment building ant at the equipment will depend on the type of system grounding the building owner has put in place. EG: Halo Ground Ring, Copper strap to bond all cabinets together, Simple common ground wire routed at the bottom of the equipment for all users to connect to, NO GROUND SYSTEM AT ALL! Every installation will be slightly different. Always put a lighting protector on the AC Power Lines. There are some good ones and some cheap ones. You get what you pay for. Spend the money and buy a good one and connect it to the building/system ground. If your equipment does not have a SOLA CV transformer in it as does GE MASTR II and some Motorola's buy a SOLA CV transformer to add to the lighting protection on the AC side. My success rate over 45 years is 99.999% by following these guidelines. The one failure had a direct hit on the antenna and a second direct hit on the AC pole transformer, both shot to he--. However the radio equipment and the transmission line were not damaged. Kenny's last bit of advice was always Spend all that you can afford for lighting protection and then borrow some more. Fred W5VAY - Original Message - From: Joe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 4:49 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] LDF5-50a We use 3 ground kits at work (cell company). The first at the top of the tower, the second at the base of the tower just before it makes the turn to go horizontal, and the third outside the entry port to the building. All ground kits are installed with the groundkit pigtail pointing towards the ground so that any possible lightning hit will have the shortest path to gound with the fewest turns in the groundwire. Inside the building, we install a polyphasor to the feedline and gound it to the common ground ring inside the shelter. We take very few damaging hits from lightning at the hundreds of sites we have. Interestly, most lightning damage comes in the power lines. Keep all groundwires as short as feasibly possible and always flowing downhill. I learned this from a lightning protection device installer. Never expect lightning to flow uphill, it always wants to go down and seek ground. 73, Joe, K1ike --- Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rick, The conventional practice is to install a grounding kit at the point just before the feedline enters the Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
