[Repeater-Builder] Re: Low Band Micor Key probelm
Are you using a repeater controller? Because if you are, I'd pull out all those Motorola cards and throw them in the garbage and wire the controller directly to the Rx and Tx boards. Dave BaughnDirector of EngineeringThe University of AlabamaCenter for Public Television and RadioWVUA/WUOA-TV WUAL/ WQPR/ WAPR FMBox 870150195 Reese Phifer Hall, 901 University Blvd.Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487205.348.8622 cell 205.310.8798NEW EMAIL [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Trevor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6/6/2007 7:03 PM OOPS I forgot to put the station model: C71RCB-3106DTTrevor--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Trevor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have been in the proccess of converting my low-band Micor repeater to 6M use, I got the reciever and transmitter converted over, and semi-retuned the PA when it stoped keying, afer checking around I cleaned the contacts on the Station Control (TLN4635B) F1-PL (TLN4636A) and Squelch (TLN4662APR Converted for external repeater modification per wa8dbw) modules. Then it started working agian. BUT... While aliging the PA I was getting low power out, so I thought I would check the voltage on the keyed a- line (I didn't have a meter set, so I was using my multimeter in 2000uA mode) but I forgot to switch the multimeter out of uA and shorted the Keyed a- to a+. Then the repeater wouldn't unkey, unless I pulled one of the modules. I played around for a bit and determined, if I have the Squelch module out, and I push the XMIT switch on the control module it would key and stay keyed. If I put in the Squelch module and keyed a HT it would lock on.After digging for a couple weeks (and getting new manuals) I decied ordered new Station control, F1-PL modules. (It was a lot pull with a new F1-PL, F1, 2 control and a couple others) Today I put them in and it does the same. What should I look at next? Thanks! Trevor KG6MDWimage/gifimage/xxx
[Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm
[Repeater-Builder] Interfacing RC210 Repeater controller to Vertex VXR-9000UA repeater
Hello, I have a Vertex VXR-9000U Repeater on the way and would like to get the cables ready to interface the unit to our ARCOM RC210 repeater controller. I was hoping someone could be so kind as to let me know which pins to use for Tx RX audio, PTT, COR , PL Detect etc... Also if there are any tricks that I need to know about with this repeater.. Thanks in advance. David NI6M
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
I think this is, or should be, a repeater-builder FAQ. Foil+braid cables like 9913, LMR-series, etc. should generally NOT be used in duplex environments. Although a few may report results to the contrary, braid-over-foil cables produce noise due to the dissimilar metal contact, particularly as the cable ages/weathers. As such, they should be avoided. Double-silver-shield cables such as RG-142B/U or RG-400/U are RG58-sized cables good for short runs at UHF and below. Their use at 900 or above should be kept to very short lengths and/or power levels under 100 watts due to the losses involved. RG-393 is slightly smaller in diameter than RG8 and is constructed using dual silver braids like RG-142B/U and RG-400/U, so it is good choice for longer runs and/or higher power levels. RG214/U is also a good choice except at very high power levels as, unlike the others cited above, it has a solid polyethylene dielectric instead of teflon. RG-223 is a smaller version of RG-214, again with a double silver braid and poly dielectric. Be careful when ordering RG-214's. There are commercial grades of RG-214, as compared to mil-C17 types, which have bare copper braids instead of silver plated. Bare copper braids, even if double-shielded, should be avoided for the same noise-generating reasons as in the case with foil+braid cables. Solid-shield cable such as Superflex-type Heliax (FSJ1-50A 1/4, FSJ2-50A 3/8, FSJ4-50B 1/2) is the best in terms of both loss-versus-size, lack of duplex noise, and shielding properties. Hope this helps. --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Howard Z. Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 5:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters? I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Micor Key probelm
I don't have a control shelf manual (orange book) here for the Micor, but one other thing to check is the PL encoder on the transmitter (if it has one). If the keying transistor or other logic on that board got hosed, it could latch on, keeping the transmitter keyed. --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trevor Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:00 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Micor Key probelm I have been in the proccess of converting my low-band Micor repeater to 6M use, I got the reciever and transmitter converted over, and semi-retuned the PA when it stoped keying, afer checking around I cleaned the contacts on the Station Control (TLN4635B) F1-PL (TLN4636A) and Squelch (TLN4662APR Converted for external repeater modification per wa8dbw) modules. Then it started working agian. BUT... While aliging the PA I was getting low power out, so I thought I would check the voltage on the keyed a- line (I didn't have a meter set, so I was using my multimeter in 2000uA mode) but I forgot to switch the multimeter out of uA and shorted the Keyed a- to a+. Then the repeater wouldn't unkey, unless I pulled one of the modules. I played around for a bit and determined, if I have the Squelch module out, and I push the XMIT switch on the control module it would key and stay keyed. If I put in the Squelch module and keyed a HT it would lock on.After digging for a couple weeks (and getting new manuals) I decied ordered new Station control, F1-PL modules. (It was a lot pull with a new F1-PL, F1, 2 control and a couple others) Today I put them in and it does the same. What should I look at next? Thanks! Trevor KG6MDW Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Use the best shielding possible between the RF equipment and the duplexer and from the duplexer to the antenna low loss is more important that sheilding. Steve Howard Z. wrote: I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm
Re: [Repeater-Builder] DCS decoder software?
Look for WINTONE in the ham radio stuff on the net may be what u'r looking for I used it years ago was a registered user then. May still be havent dusted the program off in years. ka3hsw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know of a software program that will take discriminator audio and display the DCS (or, optionally, CTCSS) being used? If not, can someone point me to the technical specification for DCS? (I know it's approximately 131 baud, sub-audible, occupying 2-300 Hz, but that's all I could find...) Maybe I can get my son to write such a program George - Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
[Repeater-Builder] Duplexer
Can a VHF duplexer be modified to use in UHF or vise versa. If so what would have to be done. Just wondering, with a low power machine if this was possible(10-15 watts).
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Depends really 9913 is a good cable to use if you run modest lengths, the cable doesn't have to move a lot and you don't run really high power. Here's the dope... The coax is most often a very cost effective choice. The loss for modest length runs is not bad. You should pay serious attention to the coax material and mechanical construction issues for your specific application. The center conductor is often mounted in foam or a hybrid air foam type layout, which has a potential to become problematic. It is possible the center conductor can migrate out of alignment with sharp radius bends and heated center dilectric problems. Because of these two issues I'm not much of a fan about using any foam center coax. There's also a crush problem I'm not going to address in this post... But I have friends who run 9913 with great results. My coax choice before 9913 would be RG-214 mil spec. Stay away from LMR dissimilar metal type coax cables in/for duplex (repeater) operation... cheers, skipp Howard Z. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Hi Jeff, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think this is, or should be, a repeater-builder FAQ. Foil+braid cables like 9913, LMR-series, etc. should generally NOT be used in duplex environments. What really fans the LMR-400 is ok fire... is the number of Wifi people using it. They don't normally report the duplex operation problems because the wifi stuff is normally a half duplex operation. Although a few may report results to the contrary, braid-over-foil cables produce noise due to the dissimilar metal contact, particularly as the cable ages/weathers. As such, they should be avoided. Is 9913 a dissmilar metal coax? I've seen some versions with a thin copper foil... but not aluminum. cheers, skipp
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
skipp025 wrote: Depends really 9913 is a good cable to use if you run modest lengths, the cable doesn't have to move a lot and you don't run really high power. Here's the dope... The coax is most often a very cost effective choice. The loss for modest length runs is not bad. You should pay serious attention to the coax material and mechanical construction issues for your specific application. The center conductor is often mounted in foam or a hybrid air foam type layout, which has a potential to become problematic. It is possible the center conductor can migrate out of alignment with sharp radius bends and heated center dilectric problems. Because of these two issues I'm not much of a fan about using any foam center coax. There's also a crush problem I'm not going to address in this post... But I have friends who run 9913 with great results. My coax choice before 9913 would be RG-214 mil spec. Stay away from LMR dissimilar metal type coax cables in/for duplex (repeater) operation... cheers, skipp Both 9913 and 9913F use dissimilar metal shield materials. They both use DuoFoil aluminum foil / polyester tape under tinned copper. You may get lucky, but most folks end up with problems. Unless you feel very lucky, 9913 and the LMR series of coaxes should be avoided in duplex applications. Ed Yoho WA6RQD
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
LMR cables, or any with braid-over-foil, will expand and contract if used outdoors (or in other non-controlled environments), which tends to occur in repeater situations. After a while, this slight mechanical shifting will cause problems, including noise, as the braid rubs over the foil. Dis-similar metals then act as rectifiers (point-contact) as corrosion creeps in. Same thing can happen if the coax is allowed to flex in the wind. Sharp bending, or repeated bending, will also break the foil and/or mylar wrapping (i.e. inner shield), thus reducing the effectiveness of the foil. The mylar will stretch a little bit, the foil usually fractures. I had two LMR400 jumper cables that have become totally useless due to repeated bending in a 2ft radius arc. I'm pretty sure that this topic has been covered in a couple of articles on www.repeater-builder.com, but perhaps it needs some more definitive statements. Bob M. == --- skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Depends really 9913 is a good cable to use if you run modest lengths, the cable doesn't have to move a lot and you don't run really high power. Here's the dope... The coax is most often a very cost effective choice. The loss for modest length runs is not bad. You should pay serious attention to the coax material and mechanical construction issues for your specific application. The center conductor is often mounted in foam or a hybrid air foam type layout, which has a potential to become problematic. It is possible the center conductor can migrate out of alignment with sharp radius bends and heated center dilectric problems. Because of these two issues I'm not much of a fan about using any foam center coax. There's also a crush problem I'm not going to address in this post... But I have friends who run 9913 with great results. My coax choice before 9913 would be RG-214 mil spec. Stay away from LMR dissimilar metal type coax cables in/for duplex (repeater) operation... cheers, skipp Howard Z. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545469
Re: [Repeater-Builder] DCS decoder software?
I searched it for CDCSS and DPL, and there was no mention of either, so I guess I was correct. It also says that a discriminator tap is not required. It would have to be for CDCSS. Joe M. xxx..2fan wrote: attached is pdf manual for wintone 2.0 mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: WinTone won't do CDCSS from what I recall. Joe M. xxx..2fan wrote: Look for WINTONE in the ham radio stuff on the net may be what u'r looking for I used it years ago was a registered user then. May still be havent dusted the program off in years. ka3hsw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know of a software program that will take discriminator audio and display the DCS (or, optionally, CTCSS) being used? If not, can someone point me to the technical specification for DCS? (I know it's approximately 131 baud, sub-audible, occupying 2-300 Hz, but that's all I could find...) Maybe I can get my son to write such a program George -- Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. -- Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search. Name: wintonemanual.pdf wintonemanual.pdf Type: Acrobat (application/pdf) Encoding: base64 Description: 2621224471-wintonemanual.pdf
[Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer
Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for operation in the UHF band. I assume the loops and harness would require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or the aluminum extruded cavities. PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable. Thanks Doug N3DAB
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tedd Doda [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bob: Just curious about the double braided cables like 214. Wouldn't they also suffer from the same situation where the 2 braids rub on each other? No, the key is the SILVER, which conducts extremely well whether it is oxidized or not. Aluminum and copper do not exhibit this characteristic. Plus, a lot is said about dissimilar metals here, but same-metal braids, if not silver plated, create the same problems very often. RG213 should be avoided for this reason, and, the non-silver plated braids of some RG214, for example. Laryn K8TVZ
RE: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer
I'd be happy to trade you (or anyone else) a nice UHF duplexer for your highband duplexer. Have many to choose from... -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 5:29 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for operation in the UHF band. I assume the loops and harness would require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or the aluminum extruded cavities. PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable. Thanks Doug N3DAB Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Good ol' 9913 uses the same Belden DuoBond II shield like they use in RG6-type cables. It is aluminum foil/mylar with a relatively loose (90% coverage) tinned copper braid over it. LMR-type cable uses the same shield construction as 9913. The primary difference between 9913 and LMR-series cables is the dielectric. 9913 uses the semi hollow dielectric comprised of a tube of solid dielectric with a spiral spacer between it and the center conductor. This reduces the loss (and increases the Vf) as compared to having a solid dielectric. LMR, on the other hand, uses a low-density foam dielectric, no spacer or air. It's easy for 9913 to turn into a water hose. I've had this happen at more than one site; scratch your head and wonder how the top of the cabinet is dry but the floor inside the cabinet is wet... --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of skipp025 Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 3:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters? Hi Jeff, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think this is, or should be, a repeater-builder FAQ. Foil+braid cables like 9913, LMR-series, etc. should generally NOT be used in duplex environments. What really fans the LMR-400 is ok fire... is the number of Wifi people using it. They don't normally report the duplex operation problems because the wifi stuff is normally a half duplex operation. Although a few may report results to the contrary, braid-over-foil cables produce noise due to the dissimilar metal contact, particularly as the cable ages/weathers. As such, they should be avoided. Is 9913 a dissmilar metal coax? I've seen some versions with a thin copper foil... but not aluminum. cheers, skipp Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Someone kindly answered before I had a chance. In addition, both braids in mil-spec 214 are made of the same material and will expand and contract in unison, unlike the foil and braid in LMR. So the problem is much less severe, if it even happens at all. Bob M. == --- Tedd Doda [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Thu, 7 Jun 2007 14:15:04 -0700 (PDT), Bob M. wrote: After a while, this slight mechanical shifting will cause problems, including noise, as the braid rubs over the foil. Bob: Just curious about the double braided cables like 214. Wouldn't they also suffer from the same situation where the 2 braids rub on each other? Tedd Doda, VE3TJD Lazer Audio and Electronics Baden, Ontario, Canada www.ve3tjd.com (personal) www.eraradio.ca (Linked repeater system) We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
[Repeater-Builder] IFR 1100S Service Monitor
Anybody out there have an IFR 1100S service monitor in good working operationI have a problem with one that we just bought for use within our repeater group. I need to talk with somebody who has experience with this particular IFR model to find out just what I can expect of the spectrum analyser mode. And also, now that I realize the age of this unit, is there anybody out there that would like to sell me a junker for future parts? Please communicate off the [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Scott, N6NXI
Re: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer
So would I I will trade him 2 sets of uhf duplexer for 1 vhf KG4IDD Jeff DePolo wrote: I'd be happy to trade you (or anyone else) a nice UHF duplexer for your highband duplexer. Have many to choose from... -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 5:29 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for operation in the UHF band. I assume the loops and harness would require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or the aluminum extruded cavities. PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable. Thanks Doug N3DAB Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer
Two for one sounds like a better deal to me, but I'm partial to the Motorola T1500 4 cavity duplexers and am looking specifally for 430-470 range with band pass (Bp) coupling loops on one (T1507A) and the 2nd one can be either Bp (preferred)or BpBr (T1504A)if thats the best you can do. Any takers out there ?? -- Doug N3DAB/WPRX486 Merrill [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = So would I I will trade him 2 sets of uhf duplexer for 1 vhf KG4IDD Jeff DePolo wrote: I'd be happy to trade you (or anyone else) a nice UHF duplexer for your highband duplexer. Have many to choose from... -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n3dab Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 5:29 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VHF to UHF mod. for duplexer Since the Question has been raised, I have a Sinclair VHF Q2220E that I would like to use on the UHF band. Can any one point me to a mod. page or funish info as to how they succesfully modded there Q2220E for operation in the UHF band. I assume the loops and harness would require modding but have no idea about the tuning rods, capaciters or the aluminum extruded cavities. PS : I also posted a noted asking about a source of Motorola T1500 series passband coupling loops (.5 to 1.0 dB IL). I'm just looking for the loops but will take complete can(s) if they are reasonable. Thanks Doug N3DAB Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
What about LDF4-50A coax cable? Is it a better choice than FSJ4-50B? Howard --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think this is, or should be, a repeater-builder FAQ. Foil+braid cables like 9913, LMR-series, etc. should generally NOT be used in duplex environments. Although a few may report results to the contrary, braid-over-foil cables produce noise due to the dissimilar metal contact, particularly as the cable ages/weathers. As such, they should be avoided. Double-silver-shield cables such as RG-142B/U or RG-400/U are RG58- sized cables good for short runs at UHF and below. Their use at 900 or above should be kept to very short lengths and/or power levels under 100 watts due to the losses involved. RG-393 is slightly smaller in diameter than RG8 and is constructed using dual silver braids like RG-142B/U and RG- 400/U, so it is good choice for longer runs and/or higher power levels. RG214/U is also a good choice except at very high power levels as, unlike the others cited above, it has a solid polyethylene dielectric instead of teflon. RG-223 is a smaller version of RG-214, again with a double silver braid and poly dielectric. Be careful when ordering RG-214's. There are commercial grades of RG-214, as compared to mil-C17 types, which have bare copper braids instead of silver plated. Bare copper braids, even if double-shielded, should be avoided for the same noise-generating reasons as in the case with foil+braid cables. Solid-shield cable such as Superflex-type Heliax (FSJ1-50A 1/4, FSJ2-50A 3/8, FSJ4-50B 1/2) is the best in terms of both loss-versus- size, lack of duplex noise, and shielding properties. Hope this helps. --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Howard Z. Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 5:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters? I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Ok Andrew FSJ4-50B 1/2 coax cable - best choice - CHECK! Thanks for the help Howard --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think this is, or should be, a repeater-builder FAQ. Foil+braid cables like 9913, LMR-series, etc. should generally NOT be used in duplex environments. Although a few may report results to the contrary, braid-over-foil cables produce noise due to the dissimilar metal contact, particularly as the cable ages/weathers. As such, they should be avoided. Double-silver-shield cables such as RG-142B/U or RG-400/U are RG58- sized cables good for short runs at UHF and below. Their use at 900 or above should be kept to very short lengths and/or power levels under 100 watts due to the losses involved. RG-393 is slightly smaller in diameter than RG8 and is constructed using dual silver braids like RG-142B/U and RG- 400/U, so it is good choice for longer runs and/or higher power levels. RG214/U is also a good choice except at very high power levels as, unlike the others cited above, it has a solid polyethylene dielectric instead of teflon. RG-223 is a smaller version of RG-214, again with a double silver braid and poly dielectric. Be careful when ordering RG-214's. There are commercial grades of RG-214, as compared to mil-C17 types, which have bare copper braids instead of silver plated. Bare copper braids, even if double-shielded, should be avoided for the same noise-generating reasons as in the case with foil+braid cables. Solid-shield cable such as Superflex-type Heliax (FSJ1-50A 1/4, FSJ2-50A 3/8, FSJ4-50B 1/2) is the best in terms of both loss-versus- size, lack of duplex noise, and shielding properties. Hope this helps. --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Howard Z. Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 5:13 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Which coax cables to use with repeaters? I have read that one should use dual-shielded cables. Which cables are these? Is Belden 9913F7 a good choice? Here is its description: http://www.therfc.com/9913f.htm Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Which coax cables to use with repeaters?
Howard Z. wrote: What about LDF4-50A coax cable? Is it a better choice than FSJ4-50B? Howard The FSJ4-50B (1/2 Superflex) is much more flexible and can support tighter radius bends. For in cabinet jumpers it is hard to beat. In most cases, the smaller FSJ1-50 (1/4) or FSJ2-50 (3/8) will be much easier to work with. The LDF4-50A is standard 1/2 hardline and would normally be used to get from the duplexer to the antenna. Ed Yoho WA6RQD
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Micor Key probelm
Jeff, I found that one of the transistors got bent over and had the legs touching, I bent it back and it worked fine! Oh well, now I have a bunch of extra cards. Trevor -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff DePolo Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:42 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Micor Key probelm I don't have a control shelf manual (orange book) here for the Micor, but one other thing to check is the PL encoder on the transmitter (if it has one). If the keying transistor or other logic on that board got hosed, it could latch on, keeping the transmitter keyed. --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trevor Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:00 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Micor Key probelm I have been in the proccess of converting my low-band Micor repeater to 6M use, I got the reciever and transmitter converted over, and semi-retuned the PA when it stoped keying, afer checking around I cleaned the contacts on the Station Control (TLN4635B) F1-PL (TLN4636A) and Squelch (TLN4662APR Converted for external repeater modification per wa8dbw) modules. Then it started working agian. BUT... While aliging the PA I was getting low power out, so I thought I would check the voltage on the keyed a- line (I didn't have a meter set, so I was using my multimeter in 2000uA mode) but I forgot to switch the multimeter out of uA and shorted the Keyed a- to a+. Then the repeater wouldn't unkey, unless I pulled one of the modules. I played around for a bit and determined, if I have the Squelch module out, and I push the XMIT switch on the control module it would key and stay keyed. If I put in the Squelch module and keyed a HT it would lock on.After digging for a couple weeks (and getting new manuals) I decied ordered new Station control, F1-PL modules. (It was a lot pull with a new F1-PL, F1, 2 control and a couple others) Today I put them in and it does the same. What should I look at next? Thanks! Trevor KG6MDW Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007 2:03 PM Yahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 2312 (20070606) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
[Repeater-Builder] Hardline hangers
Can anyone provide me with a source of cheap, metal hardline hangers for 7/8 hardline. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Gene Ferguson, W4FWG
