Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Lee Pennington]

Where's the chainsaws, and weed whackers?? I agree with Barry, If I was
twenty years younger and that tower was free and in So. Florida  I'd be
looking for a deal on guy wire and hardware..just my
nickels worth
 de Lee, K4LJP
73

On Thu, Jun 3, 2010 at 12:54 AM, Barry  wrote:

>
>
> Looking at the pictures a good cleaning + painting and replacement of guys
> after Engineering (mechanical) inspection and establishing that the tube
> inside is not filled with flakes of rust , still seem like a good idea ?
>
> --
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> From: dgrap...@gmail.com
> Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 03:11:10 +
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower
>
>
>  Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the
> site was abandon for years.
>
> Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county
> pa. Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon" 
> wrote:
> >
> > Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference
> > between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
> >
> > 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > >From: dgrapach 
> > >Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
> > >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
> > >
> > >I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the size
> of a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The
> > >
> > >tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the
> > >outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several
> guy wires,
> > >
> > >guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height
> 150 feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust
> > >
> > >is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old
> tower like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable
> > >
> > >used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.
> > >
> > >Denny
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Find it on Domain.com.au Need a new place to 
> live?
>  
>



-- 
"Always drink upstream from the herd."

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Micor crystals for 52.15 RX and 53.15 TX

[sbjohnston]

Randy wrote:

>For what type of chassis, the exciter is different on the unified
>chassis.  Unless you're using a mobile?

Good point - but I have both mobile and base exciter boards available 
so I could use channel elements for either.  The mobile transmitter 
exciter board uses a K1004A element, but I would prefer the base 
version, which is the KXN1028B element.  The receiver's crystal is in a 
K1003A element.

Thanks...

Steve WD8DAS

sbjohns...@aol.com
http://www.wd8das.net/

Radio is your best entertainment value.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Kris Kirby]

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010, dgrapach wrote:
> The pictures are here of the tower. 
> http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/dgrapach/Old%20tower/Old%20Tower/

I am really new to towers and tower climbing. Here are a few points 
based on what images you have posted:

1) Immediately Agent Orange the base of the tower, the guys, and the 
base of the guys. 

2) Thoroughly inspect each of the above points for any through or heavy 
rust where metal meets concrete. 

3) Anything that is living in or on the tower should immediately be 
severed. The tree growing through the guy wire needs to be separated 
from the guy wire. By cutting it down. First above the line, and then 
through the line. You want to crack the tree away from the line.

The entire tower must be "safetied" before any attempt to climb is made. 
Anything organic growing on it should be turning brown and dying, and 
all of the guy bases must be inspected and assured to be in the ground. 

Additionally, since this is a bolted tower, I would inspect all of the 
bolts in the bottom 10 - 20 feet for any signs of looseness on the way 
up. One of these towers might survive with a loose or missing diagonal. 
But if it loses two diagonals, it's liable to drop without warning. 

Any rust should be surface rust only. There are no splits in the legs, 
so it's good there, but without being able to see the base of the tower 
without foliage cover, or the base of the guys without foliage cover, 
there's no certain way to tell how safe it might be. 

Obviously, the farther apart the vertical legs are, the stronger the 
tower should be. Rohn 45 is 18" per side, Rohn 20 and 25 are 12" per 
side. Rohn 45 is a little more comfortable to climb. ;)

--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR
Disinformation Analyst

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Barry]

Looking at the pictures a good cleaning + painting and replacement of guys 
after Engineering (mechanical) inspection and establishing that the tube inside 
is not filled with flakes of rust , still seem like a good idea ?

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: dgrap...@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 03:11:10 +
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower


















 



  



  
  
  Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the 
site was abandon for years. 



Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county pa. 
Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon"  wrote:

>

> Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 

> between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!

> 

> 73, Dick, W1KSZ

> 

> 

> -Original Message-

> >From: dgrapach 

> >Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM

> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower

> >

> >I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size of 
> >a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 

> >

> >tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 

> >outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
> >wires, 

> >

> >guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
> >feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 

> >

> >is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower 
> >like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 

> >

> >used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.

> >

> >Denny

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >Yahoo! Groups Links

> >

> >

> >

>







 









  
_
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[MCH]

Different tower, then. The one I was talking about was 'infested' with 
pine trees and was severely bent over.

Still, I would look to see if the tower is straight since you have a 
tree in the guy lines (or rather a guy line in the tree).

Joe M.

dgrapach wrote:
> This tower is near Plumville, the Ballsinger radio tower. I will always er on 
> the side of safety, if it is jumk I want no part of it. just trying to 
> determan if in worth the trouble..
> 
> Denny
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, MCH  wrote:
>> If this happens to be near Saltsburg, look up the tower and I think you 
>> will find the tower is bent from the trees pulling on the guy wires. At 
>> least, it was that way about 10-15 years ago, and I doubt it has gotten 
>> any better. I also doubt you will find anyone willing (read: dumb 
>> enough) to climb it.
>>
>> Again, though, if it's the one I'm thinking it might be.
>>
>> Joe M.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Glenn (Butch) Kanvick]

Who owns the land that it sits on?

You could get a pretty penny for the copper that is in the heliax.
You would probably need a crane to disassemble it and sell it for steel.
But find a local tower company and see if they want to look at it.
Engineering firms are usually about $400.00 per hour. I am sure they would
have equipment to test the guy wires.

You could start by clearing all the brush from the guy wires and tower, then
you would be able to inspect it better.

Looks like someone put it up and abndoned it later. Hence the under growth.

Butch in Billings, MT
KE7FEL/r

On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:44 PM, dgrapach  wrote:

>
>
> This tower is near Plumville, the Ballsinger radio tower. I will always er
> on the side of safety, if it is jumk I want no part of it. just trying to
> determan if in worth the trouble..
>
> Denny
>
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com,
> MCH  wrote:
> >
> > If this happens to be near Saltsburg, look up the tower and I think you
> > will find the tower is bent from the trees pulling on the guy wires. At
> > least, it was that way about 10-15 years ago, and I doubt it has gotten
> > any better. I also doubt you will find anyone willing (read: dumb
> > enough) to climb it.
> >
> > Again, though, if it's the one I'm thinking it might be.
> >
> > Joe M.
> >
> > dgrapach wrote:
> > > Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees,
> the site was abandon for years.
> > >
> > > Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana
> county pa. Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?
> > >
> > > --- In 
> > > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com,
> "Richard W. Solomon"  wrote:
> > >> Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference
> > >> between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
> > >>
> > >> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -Original Message-
> > >>> From: dgrapach 
> > >>> Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
> > >>> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > >>> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
> > >>>
> > >>> I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the
> size of a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The
> > >>>
> > >>> tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the
> > >>> outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on
> several guy wires,
> > >>>
> > >>> guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower
> height 150 feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust
>
> > >>>
> > >>> is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old
> tower like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable
> > >>>
> > >>> used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.
> > >>>
> > >>> Denny
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> 
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > 
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > > Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > Version: 9.0.783 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2746 - Release Date:
> 03/14/10 03:33:00
> > >
> >
>
>  
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[dgrapach]

This tower is near Plumville, the Ballsinger radio tower. I will always er on 
the side of safety, if it is jumk I want no part of it. just trying to determan 
if in worth the trouble..

Denny

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, MCH  wrote:
>
> If this happens to be near Saltsburg, look up the tower and I think you 
> will find the tower is bent from the trees pulling on the guy wires. At 
> least, it was that way about 10-15 years ago, and I doubt it has gotten 
> any better. I also doubt you will find anyone willing (read: dumb 
> enough) to climb it.
> 
> Again, though, if it's the one I'm thinking it might be.
> 
> Joe M.
> 
> dgrapach wrote:
> > Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the 
> > site was abandon for years. 
> > 
> > Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county 
> > pa. Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon"  
> > wrote:
> >> Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 
> >> between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
> >>
> >> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> >>
> >>
> >> -Original Message-
> >>> From: dgrapach 
> >>> Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
> >>> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >>> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
> >>>
> >>> I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size 
> >>> of a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 
> >>>
> >>> tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
> >>> outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several 
> >>> guy wires, 
> >>>
> >>> guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 
> >>> 150 feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 
> >>>
> >>> is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old 
> >>> tower like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 
> >>>
> >>> used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.
> >>>
> >>> Denny
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.783 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2746 - Release Date: 03/14/10 
> > 03:33:00
> >
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[MCH]

If this happens to be near Saltsburg, look up the tower and I think you 
will find the tower is bent from the trees pulling on the guy wires. At 
least, it was that way about 10-15 years ago, and I doubt it has gotten 
any better. I also doubt you will find anyone willing (read: dumb 
enough) to climb it.

Again, though, if it's the one I'm thinking it might be.

Joe M.

dgrapach wrote:
> Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the 
> site was abandon for years. 
> 
> Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county pa. 
> Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon"  
> wrote:
>> Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 
>> between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
>>
>> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: dgrapach 
>>> Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
>>> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>>> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
>>>
>>> I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size of 
>>> a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 
>>>
>>> tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
>>> outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
>>> wires, 
>>>
>>> guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
>>> feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 
>>>
>>> is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower 
>>> like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 
>>>
>>> used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.
>>>
>>> Denny
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.783 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2746 - Release Date: 03/14/10 
> 03:33:00
> 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[dgrapach]

The  pictures are here of the tower.
http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac231/dgrapach/Old%20tower/Old%20Tower/

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "dgrapach"  wrote:
>
> Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the 
> site was abandon for years. 
> 
> Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county pa. 
> Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon"  wrote:
> >
> > Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 
> > between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
> > 
> > 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > >From: dgrapach 
> > >Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
> > >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
> > >
> > >I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size 
> > >of a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 
> > >
> > >tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
> > >outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
> > >wires, 
> > >
> > >guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
> > >feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 
> > >
> > >is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old 
> > >tower like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 
> > >
> > >used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.
> > >
> > >Denny
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[dgrapach]

Very true,this tower had it's guy wires in the woods under the trees, the site 
was abandon for years. 

Where and how do I find an engineer to inspect it. I am in Indiana county pa. 
Is it feasible to change guy wires, do they recomemd it?

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard W. Solomon"  wrote:
>
> Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 
> between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!
> 
> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> >From: dgrapach 
> >Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
> >
> >I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size of 
> >a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 
> >
> >tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
> >outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
> >wires, 
> >
> >guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
> >feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 
> >
> >is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower 
> >like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 
> >
> >used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.
> >
> >Denny
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

RE: [Repeater-Builder] SEA-PAC

[k7pfj]

HI Ken,

 

Wish I was going to be there.

 

Mike

 

 

Mike Mullarkey K7PFJ

6886 Sage Ave

Firestone, Co 80504

303-736-9693 

 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Arck
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 6:46 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] SEA-PAC

 

  

We look forward to meeting you good folks at the 2010 SEA-PAC Ham 
Convention this coming weekend in beautiful Seaside, Oregon!

As always, we'll have our booth there so stop by and say hi!

http://seapac.org/

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Richard W. Solomon]

Tower location is an important piece of the equation. Big difference 
between the East Coast and the Sonoran Desert !!

73, Dick, W1KSZ


-Original Message-
>From: dgrapach 
>Sent: Jun 2, 2010 9:27 PM
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower
>
>I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size of a 
>45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 
>
>tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
>outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
>wires, 
>
>guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
>feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 
>
>is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower 
>like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 
>
>used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.
>
>Denny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Barry]

Have a local engineer inspect it , preferably of the mechanical kind or someone 
in construction with a clue  as it may wel be fine but wthout a decent visual 
it might fall anytime 
 At that age I would be suspicious or further use in another location 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: dgrap...@gmail.com
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 01:47:16 +
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower


















 



  



  
  
  I don't know if I can put the pictures on..



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Lee Pennington  
wrote:

>

> Pictures would help,

> 

> On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:27 PM, dgrapach  wrote:

> 

> >

> >

> > I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the size of

> > a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The

> >

> > tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the

> > outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy

> > wires,

> >

> > guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150

> > feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust

> >

> > is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower

> > like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable

> >

> > used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.

> >

> > Denny

> >

> >  

> >

> 

> 

> 

> -- 

> "Always drink upstream from the herd."

>







 









  
_
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/

Re: {Disarmed} [Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Max Kelley]

Use something like Photobucket.com... Post the pictures there, then link
them to us!


-- 
Max Kelley KC2SPY
www.maxkelley.com



On Thu, 2010-06-03 at 01:47 +, dgrapach wrote:

>   
> 
> I don't know if I can put the pictures on..
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Lee Pennington
>  wrote:
> >
> > Pictures would help,
> > 
> > On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:27 PM, dgrapach  wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > >
> > > I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the
> size of
> > > a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The
> > >
> > > tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on
> the
> > > outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on
> several guy
> > > wires,
> > >
> > > guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower
> height 150
> > > feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust
> > >
> > > is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an
> old tower
> > > like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable
> > >
> > > used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.
> > >
> > > Denny
> > >
> > > 
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > "Always drink upstream from the herd."
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[dgrapach]

I don't know if I can put the pictures on..


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Lee Pennington  
wrote:
>
> Pictures would help,
> 
> On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:27 PM, dgrapach  wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the size of
> > a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The
> >
> > tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the
> > outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy
> > wires,
> >
> > guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150
> > feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust
> >
> > is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower
> > like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable
> >
> > used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.
> >
> > Denny
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> "Always drink upstream from the herd."
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[Lee Pennington]

Pictures would help,

On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:27 PM, dgrapach  wrote:

>
>
> I need advice on using an old radio tower. It looks like to be the size of
> a 45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The
>
> tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the
> outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy
> wires,
>
> guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150
> feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust
>
> is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower
> like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable
>
> used as a guy wire? So many questions... Thanks for any help.
>
> Denny
>
>  
>



-- 
"Always drink upstream from the herd."

[Repeater-Builder] Advice on 40 year old radio tower

[dgrapach]

I need advice on using an old radio tower.  It looks like to be the size of a 
45G, the cross bars are bolted on instead of welded. The 

tower looks as if it is ok, light surface rust, bolts look ok on the 
outside, of course can't see inside. Heavy rust and pitting on several guy 
wires, 

guys are in amoung the trees, the location needs cleared, tower height 150 
feet. Any one have experance on this type of tower? How much rust 

is aceptable on a gut wire? How do you decide on the safety on an old tower 
like this? What is the differance between guy wire and cable 

used as a guy wire? So many questions...  Thanks for any help.

Denny

[Repeater-Builder] SEA-PAC

[Ken Arck]

We look forward to meeting you good folks at the 2010 SEA-PAC Ham 
Convention this coming weekend in beautiful Seaside, Oregon!

As always, we'll have our booth there so stop by and say hi!

http://seapac.org/

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power

[DCFluX]

Suitable 6 cavity "Flat Pack" mobile duplexers are in the $100 range
on eBay. Thats probably cheaper than the feedline and second antenna.

On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 5:10 PM, Chuck Kelsey  wrote:
> Do your coverage tests with one radio at the repeater site and use simplex.
> Someone stays with the radio for the testing.
>
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Steve" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 5:30 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power
>
>
>>I am looking at putting together a 5w uhf repeater using 2 uhf m200s and a
>>Rick we have on hand. We want to do coverage tests prior to investing in a
>>duplexer, how far apart do we need to place our antennas?
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2913 - Release Date: 06/02/10
> 05:57:00
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power

[Chuck Kelsey]

Do your coverage tests with one radio at the repeater site and use simplex. 
Someone stays with the radio for the testing.

Chuck
WB2EDV




- Original Message - 
From: "Steve" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 5:30 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power


>I am looking at putting together a 5w uhf repeater using 2 uhf m200s and a 
>Rick we have on hand. We want to do coverage tests prior to investing in a 
>duplexer, how far apart do we need to place our antennas?
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2913 - Release Date: 06/02/10 
05:57:00

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power

[Ross Johnson]

There's should be more in your question. Are they going to be tower
mounted where they will be directly above and below the other. That's
very important. If so I'd say at least 70'-100' of vertical separation
but if your not running hardline with no filtering whatsoever you will
still likely have problems with desense just through the coax feedlines.

 
If the separation isn't exactly vertical say on two towers on a site.
Even with one antenna at 50' and the other is at 200' the towers would
need to be hundreds, maybe thousands of feet separation. A pair of
simple pass cans could give you what you need for isolation. No UHF Moto
cube cans lying around??? Also you can try more of a split just for
testing. 435rx 449tx say. 
 
Ross kc7rjk
 
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 2:30 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power
 
  
I am looking at putting together a 5w uhf repeater using 2 uhf m200s and
a Rick we have on hand. We want to do coverage tests prior to investing
in a duplexer, how far apart do we need to place our antennas? 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron switching supply for Battery Charger?? that pesky LVD again.

[skipp025]

> While it's true that some repeater owners believe that 
> a low-voltage cutoff is absolutely necessary, 

The smart repeater site owners responsible for replacing 
the battery bank IE pay for replacing the battery bank
are nvts (nuts) if they don't consider a low voltage disconnect. 

> it's also true that many stations simply stop working 
> when the input voltage drops below a certain level, and 
> therefore comprise a built-in low-voltage cutoff!! 

Has anyone in the group here ever been to a large commercial 
repeater site where every single piece of installed equipment 
was known to stop working (drawing current) when the site 
battery voltage dropped below a usable value? 

Doubt it... 
 

[Repeater-Builder] Antenna Separation UHF Low Power

[Steve]

I am looking at putting together a 5w uhf repeater using 2 uhf m200s and a Rick 
we have on hand. We want to do coverage tests prior to investing in a duplexer, 
how far apart do we need to place our antennas? 

[Repeater-Builder] WTB: TLN3265 Astro Modems

[batwing411]

Need 4.


Please reply off-list.


TIA


doug

RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT - Triplett 310

[wa6vpl]

Mike,

 

Pin plugs appear to be .080 in diameter and miniature banana plugs are .090
in diameter at the Pomona Electronics web site
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/index.php?i=prodmain
 &getDetails=0&parent=HWARE

 

I could be wrong, but I found this at Pomona web site:
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/D5936.pdf  and
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3548_1_01.pdf

 

Browse around as they may have what you really need.

 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike Morris
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 12:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT - Triplett 310

 

  

Anybody know what they call the size of plugs that
go into a Triplett 310 meter?

See the photo at


The jacks are smaller than a bananna plug and
bigger than a pin plug.

I'd really like to find a set - this is too nice a meter to leave
in a desk drawer only becasue there are no probes.
If I can make it usable it will go great in my go-bag.

Mike WA6ILQ

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need Micor crystals for 52.15 RX and 53.15 TX

[Randy Fisher]

Hi Steve,

 

For what type of chassis, the exciter is different on the unified chassis.
Unless you're using a mobile?

 

Randy

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wd8das
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 1:35 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need Micor crystals for 52.15 RX and 53.15 TX

 

  


Might be a long shot - anyone have spare six meter crystals for the Micor? I
need rocks for 52.15 MHz receive and 53.15 transmit. 

Thanks...

Steve WD8DAS

sbjohns...@aol.com  

[Repeater-Builder] OT - Triplett 310

[Mike Morris]

Anybody know what they call the size of plugs that
go into a Triplett 310 meter?

See the photo at


The jacks are smaller than a bananna plug and
bigger than a pin plug.

I'd really like to find a set - this is too nice a meter to leave
in a desk drawer only becasue there are no probes.
If I can make it usable it will go great in my go-bag.

Mike WA6ILQ

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna separation question

[Ross Johnson]

I also used a 3db collinear as a TX at the same height as the 4 bay
dipole, and noticed quite a bit more isolation just from that antenna. I
believe the folded dipoles radiation pattern allows for many more
vertical spikes, So you should be in great shape with those station
masters and said filtering.
 
In your second question, yes. I was thinking about going down that same
road for RX only. If both your receivers have pass cans you may try
this. From your dual band RX antenna feedline run a T to you uhf and vhf
cavities. Use a UHF ¼ wavelength + velocity factor and coupling loop
depth, jumper to connect you VHF pass cavity. Then calculate the save
VHF length for the UHF cavity… I haven’t done this yet so let me know
how it goes. HiHi  
 
Ross kc7rjk
 
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kc0mlt
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 10:12 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna separation question
 
  
Thansk for the input. That is almost exactly what I'm going to put on
the air as far as cans go. I'll have a Hamtronics exciter and receiver
amped up by a 110 Watt Micor base amplifier. Just about the same heights
too. Antennas are both staion masters. but I like knowing that what I
have been thinking about will actually work.

One other question someone may know. Is it possible to run say a VHF and
a UHF repeater off a dual band antenna with a diplexer or is there going
to be issues.

Thanks
Wade
KC0MLT

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 , "Ross Johnson"
 wrote:
>
> That's exactly what I'm doing. VHF GE mastrII at 100 watts goes
through
> 2 8" Sinclair pass cavities set at .5db gives 80 watts to the antenna.
4
> bay exposed dipole at 75' The receiver and preamp goes through only
one
> 8" Wacom also set at .5db then up to the collinear receive antenna at
> 100' Very very little desense almost undetectable. Also with the pass
> cavity on the receiver side preamps seem to be much more usable and
> effective in the real world. This machine hears very very well! More
can
> be seen from my website. www.kc7rjk.net  
> 
> ~Ross
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 
> [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 ] On Behalf Of kc0mlt
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 10:28 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna separation question
> 
> 
> Ok just kicking this idea around the other day and the question came
up
> about antenna separation. I know the basic 2 meter antenna separation
is
> 50ft. (I am thinking 60ft to be safe) But is it possible to get them
> closer if I place some cavities on either the receive or transmit
sides.
> Sounds dumb from some certian points of view, but I am waiting on the
> arrival of a decent duplexer (could be some time out though)so in the
> mean time I would like to get this up and going with a split antenna
> system for now. I was thinking maybe a 30ft separation... Would this
> idea work? If so does it need to be modified from what I was thinking?
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna separation question

[Mike Morris]

A local tried that years ago.  It works, sometimes.
You have to be very careful about passive intermod.
But nothing helps if you don't do the math...
Like 147.03 transmit and 441.075 or 447.100 receive...

Mike WA6ILQ

At 10:12 AM 06/02/10, you wrote:
>Thansk for the input. That is almost exactly what I'm going to put 
>on the air as far as cans go. I'll have a Hamtronics exciter and 
>receiver amped up by a 110 Watt Micor base amplifier. Just about the 
>same heights too. Antennas are both staion masters. but I like 
>knowing that what I have been thinking about will actually work.
>
>One other question someone may know. Is it possible to run say a VHF 
>and a UHF repeater off a dual band antenna with a diplexer or is 
>there going to be issues.
>
>Thanks
>Wade
>KC0MLT
>
>--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Ross Johnson"  wrote:
> >
> > That's exactly what I'm doing. VHF GE mastrII at 100 watts goes through
> > 2 8" Sinclair pass cavities set at .5db gives 80 watts to the antenna. 4
> > bay exposed dipole at 75' The receiver and preamp goes through only one
> > 8" Wacom also set at .5db then up to the collinear receive antenna at
> > 100' Very very little desense almost undetectable. Also with the pass
> > cavity on the receiver side preamps seem to be much more usable and
> > effective in the real world. This machine hears very very well! More can
> > be seen from my website. www.kc7rjk.net 
> >
> > ~Ross
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kc0mlt
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 10:28 AM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna separation question
> >
> >
> > Ok just kicking this idea around the other day and the question came up
> > about antenna separation. I know the basic 2 meter antenna separation is
> > 50ft. (I am thinking 60ft to be safe) But is it possible to get them
> > closer if I place some cavities on either the receive or transmit sides.
> > Sounds dumb from some certian points of view, but I am waiting on the
> > arrival of a decent duplexer (could be some time out though)so in the
> > mean time I would like to get this up and going with a split antenna
> > system for now. I was thinking maybe a 30ft separation... Would this
> > idea work? If so does it need to be modified from what I was thinking?
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Repeater-Builder] Need Micor crystals for 52.15 RX and 53.15 TX

[Tim]

Hey Steve,

Looks like you got the same pair I did.  Our PL is 100.0... see you when
the band opens!!

Tim  W5FN
Utopia, TX

[Repeater-Builder] Need Micor crystals for 52.15 RX and 53.15 TX

[wd8das]

Might be a long shot - anyone have spare six meter crystals for the Micor?  I 
need rocks for 52.15 MHz receive and 53.15 transmit. 

Thanks...

Steve WD8DAS

sbjohns...@aol.com

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna separation question

[kc0mlt]

Thansk for the input. That is almost exactly what I'm going to put on the air 
as far as cans go. I'll have a Hamtronics exciter and receiver amped up by a 
110 Watt Micor base amplifier. Just about the same heights too. Antennas are 
both staion masters. but I like knowing that what I have been thinking about 
will actually work.

One other question someone may know. Is it possible to run say a VHF and a UHF 
repeater off a dual band antenna with a diplexer or is there going to be issues.

Thanks
Wade
KC0MLT

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Ross Johnson"  wrote:
>
> That's exactly what I'm doing. VHF GE mastrII at 100 watts goes through
> 2 8" Sinclair pass cavities set at .5db gives 80 watts to the antenna. 4
> bay exposed dipole at 75' The receiver and preamp goes through only one
> 8" Wacom also set at .5db then up to the collinear receive antenna at
> 100' Very very little desense almost undetectable. Also with the pass
> cavity on the receiver side preamps seem to be much more usable and
> effective in the real world. This machine hears very very well! More can
> be seen from my website. www.kc7rjk.net   
>  
> ~Ross
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kc0mlt
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 10:28 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna separation question
>  
>   
> Ok just kicking this idea around the other day and the question came up
> about antenna separation. I know the basic 2 meter antenna separation is
> 50ft. (I am thinking 60ft to be safe) But is it possible to get them
> closer if I place some cavities on either the receive or transmit sides.
> Sounds dumb from some certian points of view, but I am waiting on the
> arrival of a decent duplexer (could be some time out though)so in the
> mean time I would like to get this up and going with a split antenna
> system for now. I was thinking maybe a 30ft separation... Would this
> idea work? If so does it need to be modified from what I was thinking?
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hamtronics versus Commercial (Kenwood) Repeater Selection

[John Hays]

BTW the Kenwood 820 also makes a nice homebrew D-STAR repeater as  
well.  Still working on some desense issues but NW7DR  B transmits and  
receives D-STAR compatible GMSK just fine.


John D. Hays
Amateur Radio Station K7VE
PO Box 1223
Edmonds, WA 98020-1223 VOIP/SIP: j...@hays.org
Phone: 206-801-0820
801-790-0950
Email: j...@hays.org

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Chassis Question

[La Rue Communications]

Will keep my eyes open for them Joe. We have a few more in surplus.

John Hymes
La Rue Communications
10 S. Aurora Street
Stockton, CA 95202
http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
  - Original Message - 
  From: burkleoj 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 12:05 AM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Chassis Question



  John,
  If you run across any 406 - 420 MHz Micors or Mitreks I could use one or two 
of each.

  Thanks,
  Joe

  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "La Rue Communications" 
 wrote:
  >
  > Mike -
  > 
  > Thanks for that snippet. Thats the reference I was referring to when I 
determined it was non frequency dependent. With the absence of further 
responses from the group, I will consider my answer confirmed. Thank you all 
for your time! 
  > 
  > *This unit came out of service from a UHF repeater. There are no channel 
elements but I guess it can be used for VHF stations as well with a simple 
board change, right?*
  > 
  > John Hymes
  > La Rue Communications
  > 10 S. Aurora Street
  > Stockton, CA 95202
  > http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Mike Morris 
  > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  > Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 2:45 PM
  > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Chassis Question
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > At 11:01 AM 06/01/10, you wrote:
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Gentlemen - (And Ladies)
  > 
  > I have a Micor Unified Chassis here model TCN1187A. Am I right in 
confirming that this Chassis is not frequency dependent? There are no channel 
elements in this unit so I cannot confirm what frequency is would work for. Can 
anyone shed some detailed light on this unit for me please?
  > 
  > Thanks!
  > 
  > John Hymes
  > La Rue Communications
  > 10 S. Aurora Street
  > Stockton, CA 95202
  > http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
  > 
  > 
  > Most any frequency dependent part in a Micor 
  > (actually most any Moto radio) is marked with 
  > a part number in the format of three letters 
  > and 4-digits, possibly followed with a revision 
  > code... Like TLD8272B1... 
  > 
  > The secret is the third letter. The text below is cut 
  > and pasted from 
  > < http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/aaa-numbering-scheme.html >
  > 
  > Mike WA6ILQ
  > 
  > A Under 25 MHz
  > B 25-54 MHz (yes, the table in the buyer's guide included 10 meters and 6 
meters)
  > C 72-76 MHz (see note 1)
  > D 144-174 MHz (see note 2)
  > E 406-470 MHz (see note 3)
  > F 890-960 MHz
  > N Not frequency dependent (like an audio-squelch board, or a power supply) 
(see note 4)
  > 
  > NOTES:
  > [1]: C was limited to the 72-76 MHz USA assignment (one split) until 
Motorola started making land mobile equipment for the European 66-88 MHz band 
(which usually required two splits). Some books say that the so-called "mid 
band" is 60-99 MHz. There is no 30-50 MHz low band in Europe, when they refer 
to low band they are referring to 66-88 MHz. 
  > 
  > In the USA, 60-66 MHz is television channel 3, 66-72 MHz is TV channel 4, 
the 72-76 MHz frequencies are used as "Operational Fixed / Repeater" 
frequencies (essentially commercial point-to-point links), 76-82 MHz is TV 
channel 5, 82-88 MHz is TV channel 6, and 88-108 MHz is commercial FM 
broadcast. One rumor is that as part of the HDTV conversion in the USA the FCC 
and the military want to eliminate TV channels 4, 5 and 6 then reassign the 
66-88 MHz range as a military band that aligns with the rest of the world (i.e. 
for joint operations and exercises). 
  > 
  > [2]: D was redefined downwards to 136 MHz at some point. There are high 
band equipment models specified as 136-174 MHz, and others that are 150-174 
MHz. 
  > 
  > [3]: E was redefined downwards to 390 MHz in the early 70s and then to 360 
MHz in the early 80s for certain military, government and spook equipment. It 
was expanded upwards to 490 MHz and later to 512 MHz as the 470-494 MHz then 
494-512 MHz frequencies were allocated. A 1990s salesmans order book has the 
UHF band listed as going from 400 MHz to 520 MHz. There has also been some 
"interesting" equipment found on frequencies as high as 550 MHz. 
  > 
  > [4]: N is still used as a "Not frequency dependent" identifier even when 
there is some difference between wideband and narrowband equipment (like in the 
audio recovery circuitry in an IF / discriminator board). Most of the time a 
variation like that is handled in the final letter suffix (i.e. a TLNA1 
might be wideband and a TLNA2 might be narrowband), but there are 
exceptions. 
  > 
  > The four numbers after the three letters are simply a design sequence 
number. One or two letters after the numbers are a version, variation or 
revision identifier (the term used depends on which book you read). Almost all 
assemblies have one letter after the sequence number (i.e. the first shippable 
design is dubbed version A), some have two characters, a few have three (i.e. 
TLNA1A).
  >



  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: HT1000s

[wd8chl]

On 6/2/2010 11:03 AM, radio5...@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anybody know a good source for a small quantity of of HT1000s?
>
> I'm going to need somewhere between 50 and 200.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will
>

50 to 200 is a small quantity? gee...

You are U.S. right?
Anyway, be VERY careful! Only the most recent HT1000's are narrowband 
compliant! I believe only the 'D' suffix models are OK. I don't think 
the 'C' versions are, and I know the A and B are NOT. If you wind up 
with the older ones, you'll just have to get rid of them in a year and a 
half anyway. (With that quantity, I think I can safely assume you are 
not using these for ham use.)

[Repeater-Builder] OT: HT1000s

[radio5000]

Anybody know a good source for a small quantity of of HT1000s?

I'm going to need somewhere between 50 and 200.

Thanks,

Will

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Chassis Question

[burkleoj]

John,
If you run across any 406 - 420 MHz Micors or Mitreks I could use one or two of 
each.

Thanks,
Joe

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "La Rue Communications" 
 wrote:
>
> Mike -
> 
> Thanks for that snippet. Thats the reference I was referring to when I 
> determined it was non frequency dependent. With the absence of further 
> responses from the group, I will consider my answer confirmed. Thank you all 
> for your time! 
> 
> *This unit came out of service from a UHF repeater. There are no channel 
> elements but I guess it can be used for VHF stations as well with a simple 
> board change, right?*
> 
> John Hymes
> La Rue Communications
> 10 S. Aurora Street
> Stockton, CA 95202
> http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Mike Morris 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 2:45 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Chassis Question
> 
> 
> 
>   At 11:01 AM 06/01/10, you wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Gentlemen - (And Ladies)
>  
> I have a Micor Unified Chassis here model TCN1187A. Am I right in 
> confirming that this Chassis is not frequency dependent? There are no channel 
> elements in this unit so I cannot confirm what frequency is would work for. 
> Can anyone shed some detailed light on this unit for me please?
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> John Hymes
> La Rue Communications
> 10 S. Aurora Street
> Stockton, CA 95202
> http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn
> 
> 
>   Most any frequency dependent part in a Micor  
>   (actually most any Moto radio) is marked with 
>   a part number in the format of three letters 
>   and 4-digits, possibly followed with a revision 
>   code...  Like TLD8272B1...  
> 
>   The secret is the third letter.   The text below is cut 
>   and pasted from 
>   < http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/aaa-numbering-scheme.html >
> 
>   Mike WA6ILQ
> 
>   A Under 25 MHz
>   B 25-54 MHz (yes, the table in the buyer's guide included 10 meters and 6 
> meters)
>   C 72-76 MHz   (see note 1)
>   D 144-174 MHz   (see note 2)
>   E 406-470 MHz   (see note 3)
>   F 890-960 MHz
>   N Not frequency dependent (like an audio-squelch board, or a power supply)  
>  (see note 4)
> 
>   NOTES:
>   [1]: C was limited to the 72-76 MHz USA assignment (one split) until 
> Motorola started making land mobile equipment for the European 66-88 MHz band 
> (which usually required two splits). Some books say that the so-called "mid 
> band" is 60-99 MHz. There is no 30-50 MHz low band in Europe, when they refer 
> to low band they are referring to 66-88 MHz. 
> 
>   In the USA, 60-66 MHz is television channel 3, 66-72 MHz is TV channel 4, 
> the 72-76 MHz frequencies are used as "Operational Fixed / Repeater" 
> frequencies (essentially commercial point-to-point links), 76-82 MHz is TV 
> channel 5, 82-88 MHz is TV channel 6, and 88-108 MHz is commercial FM 
> broadcast. One rumor is that as part of the HDTV conversion in the USA the 
> FCC and the military want to eliminate TV channels 4, 5 and 6 then reassign 
> the 66-88 MHz range as a military band that aligns with the rest of the world 
> (i.e. for joint operations and exercises). 
> 
>   [2]: D was redefined downwards to 136 MHz at some point.   There are high 
> band equipment models specified as 136-174 MHz, and others that are 150-174 
> MHz. 
> 
>   [3]: E was redefined downwards to 390 MHz in the early 70s and then to 360 
> MHz in the early 80s for certain military, government and spook equipment. It 
> was expanded upwards to 490 MHz and later to 512 MHz as the 470-494 MHz then 
> 494-512 MHz frequencies were allocated. A 1990s salesmans order book has the 
> UHF band listed as going from 400 MHz to 520 MHz. There has also been some 
> "interesting" equipment found on frequencies as high as 550 MHz. 
> 
>   [4]: N is still used as a "Not frequency dependent" identifier even when 
> there is some difference between wideband and narrowband equipment (like in 
> the audio recovery circuitry in an IF / discriminator board). Most of the 
> time a variation like that is handled in the final letter suffix (i.e. a 
> TLNA1 might be wideband and a TLNA2 might be narrowband), but there 
> are exceptions. 
> 
>   The four numbers after the three letters are simply a design sequence 
> number. One or two letters after the numbers are a version, variation or 
> revision identifier (the term used depends on which book you read). Almost 
> all assemblies have one letter after the sequence number (i.e. the first 
> shippable design is dubbed version A), some have two characters, a few have 
> three (i.e. TLNA1A).
>