>>Well I'd recommend dumping your narrowband sensor
>>and gauge and getting a wideband setup like
>>Innovate's LC-1. I was running a a/f gauge and a
>>scanner reading my narrowband O2 sensor. Trying to
>>get the reading up over .88v I added 30% of fuel to
>>the car at WOT (I can custom tune my ECU). Nothing
>>changed, the Gauge was still showing 9 lights and
>>the scanner was still reading .88v. Got my wideband
>>installed and went for a drive. OMG! It pegged the
>>wideband at over 9:1 a/f ratios. You could feel the
>>car just lay down at anything richer than 11:1. I
>>took out about 40% fuel from the WOT table to get it
>> between 11.5:1 and 12.2:1. 30% of that was from the
>>30% I had added originally. The car is much faster,
>> boost hits sooner and harder and there's more of
it.
Bingo. Well said, my friend. The narrow band
air/fuel guages are of zero use in my book. On a good
day, they can give air/fuel readings of about 14.0:1
to 15.5:1 or so. Beyond that range, its like a 10-20
mph speedometer. It'll spend most of its time pegged
and even if you go faster, it'll never read more than
20 mph. Go slower than 10 mph, it'll still read 10.
Plus, the farther away from stoich they go, the less
accurate and reliable they become.
Stock engine management, big valve well-ported head,
+40 injectors, S60 turbo, 25 PSI of static fuel
pressure pegged my wideband richer than 10.0:1. So,
to compensate, I actually bled off boost pressure to
the fuel pressure regulator via a check valve (kept
vacuum there though) so it wouldn't go so pig rich
under boost. At 11 PSI of boost, I have it in the low
12:1 range... by using all stock parts and fuel
pressure. The hi-torque T-1's fuel curves must be
quite aggressive to be able to STILL provide enough
fuel for this modded engine.
With the narrow band guages, all I would have been
able to say is that I have 8-9 lights. Seriously, WTF
does that mean? Its colorful volt meter is all.
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