Re: SD> Oil Seal
The anerobic sealer is for the lip seal itself, where it presses into the aluminum housing. You can also use it around where the aluminum housing seals to the block/pan, this is what I did, and is what the FSM said to do, IIRC. Installation tools? gotta hammer? ;) The hardest part of it, again, IIRC, was getting the seal back on the motor. clay -- Original Message -- From: Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 07:25:09 -0700 (PDT) >Can I just use the paper gasket instead of the anerobic sealer? I thought >that is what they were for? Also what installation tool do I need, can't I >just press the new on in the reatiner? Thanks >"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >I did just that on my 86 GLH when I was replacing the tranny. It was a bugger >to get back on, but it worked well! Be sure to use some anerobic sealer on the >outside of the seal. > >clay > > >-- Original Message -- >From: Dale >Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 04:01:24 -0700 (PDT) > >>Why can I not change the rear main without dropping the oil pan? It seems >>like I could just remove the aluminum cover and just replace the rubber end >>seal? Is this possible? Thanks >> >> >>- >>Yahoo! Mail >> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour >> >>---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING >>Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ >> >>To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html >> > > > >Sent via the Joink WebMail system at abcs.com > > > > > > > >- >Discover Yahoo! > Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out! > >---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING >Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > >To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html > Sent via the Joink WebMail system at abcs.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Oil Seal
Can I just use the paper gasket instead of the anerobic sealer? I thought that is what they were for? Also what installation tool do I need, can't I just press the new on in the reatiner? Thanks "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I did just that on my 86 GLH when I was replacing the tranny. It was a bugger to get back on, but it worked well! Be sure to use some anerobic sealer on the outside of the seal. clay -- Original Message -- From: Dale Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 04:01:24 -0700 (PDT) >Why can I not change the rear main without dropping the oil pan? It seems like >I could just remove the aluminum cover and just replace the rubber end seal? >Is this possible? Thanks > > >- >Yahoo! Mail > Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour > >---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING >Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > >To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html > Sent via the Joink WebMail system at abcs.com - Discover Yahoo! Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Oil Seal
I did just that on my 86 GLH when I was replacing the tranny. It was a bugger to get back on, but it worked well! Be sure to use some anerobic sealer on the outside of the seal. clay -- Original Message -- From: Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 04:01:24 -0700 (PDT) >Why can I not change the rear main without dropping the oil pan? It seems >like I could just remove the aluminum cover and just replace the rubber end >seal? Is this possible? Thanks > > >- >Yahoo! Mail > Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour > >---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING >Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > >To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html > Sent via the Joink WebMail system at abcs.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD> Oil Seal
Do you have a haynes or chilton's manual? If not get them. Also look at finding a copy of the Factory service manual. At the very least they are helpful references for the necessary torque specs for reassembly. Basically, you have to pull the oil pan to pull the rear seal carrier. Which means you need new oil pan end seals and a tube or RTV sealant for the sides. When installing the seal in the bracket, be careful as it can break in half. Also make sure to get the seal in perpendicular to the crank end. If the end of the crank is scored where the seal is riding, you'll need to polish it out as the new seal will fail in short order from the rough surface texture. Since you have the pan off, this would be a great time to install a crank scraper and a couple of baffles in the pan to help your oil stay cooler and cleaner, which increases your oil volume and pressure and should help your engine live longer. Good luck, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR Co-Founder PNW-SDAC http://www.pnw-sdac.org 1980 Fiat X-1/9 1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 1987 Shelby CSX #106 1988 Shelby CSX-T #3 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Sent: Monday, May 02, 2005 5:15 PM To: Shelby Dodge Subject: SD> Oil Seal WHat is the proper procedure for changing the rear main seal (T1 engine). I bought the new one and I see it has a installation sleeve with it? DO I just slip this over the crank, and then tap it into place? THere is also two paper gaskets with it, do I use RTV as well? Thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
