Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Lin]

Are you using any aerosols in the same room or near your cs machine?  Anything 
in the air?

I had a batch turn pale yellow when a guest in the house sprayed Lysol in the 
hall next to the room my generator was running a batch in.  It turned 5 gallon 
pale yellow.

Lin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Kenny laguna 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 8:36 AM
  Subject: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?


  Hi all,
   
  For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver Puppy, 
and can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different brands of 
distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter. Ive been using 
"auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the electrodes 1 time (when 
heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i use are brand new, a 
rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch the electrodes with 
anything but a clean paper towel.
   
  Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color, I've 
tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has set for 
at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a much 
darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
   
  Thank you for your help!

Re: CS>CS study in vivo

[David AuBuchon]

Answered my own question:  The product was Coll Ag 40 which is a MSP
and hyped in a book by a Dr. Farber, that seems kinda shady.

~David
http://scientificliving.net/

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:38 PM, David AuBuchon
 wrote:
> FYI, the website author with that quote let me know that it is a piece
> of info she has had for many years, and unfortunately no longer has
> the reference.
>
> ~David
> http://scientificliving.net/
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 1:53 PM, David AuBuchon
>  wrote:
>> I found this online, but cannot find any clue to the real source of
>> this claim of an in vivo study on CS.  Any clues:
>>
>> "More Research on Colloidal Silver - A one year long study completed
>> at Harvard and Cambridge Universities shows that CS is effective as an
>> anti-viral, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and natural antibiotic.  This
>> study showed CS to be effective in humans with sinus infections,
>> respiratory infection, bronchitis, strep throat, retro-viral
>> infections, thrush (yeast), ear infections, fungal infections, urinary
>> tract infections, and conjunctivitis.  No failures were reported in
>> this study.  CS performed better than the five major classes of
>> antibiotics in killing bacteria.  Testing is on-going."
>>
>> ~David
>> http://scientificliving.net/
>>
>>
>> --
>> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>>  
>> Archives:
>>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>>
>> Off-Topic discussions: 
>> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>>
>>
>>
>

RE: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Neville Munn]

 




From: anugal_...@hotmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 17:28:57 -0500




Hi Neville,
 
Its not that i have anything against yellow CS. From what i understand, clear 
is just better, as the particle size is smaller. Is there really much of a 
difference between yellow and clear CS?  
# From a personal perspective Kenny...NO!  On the odd occasion I myself get a 
lemon yellow, or deeper yellow result...Why? Any number of reasons.  Praps I 
just parted my hair on a different side on those production days?  Or praps I 
cooked my toast at the same time I was brewing and pollutants from over done 
toast may have entered the water {I don't use a lid when producing}.
 
There are many arguments for and against colour of solution, but simply put, 
literature states anything under 1 micron can be classified as a colloid.  Now, 
having said that, we know that *any*, and *all* particles present in our 
solutions will most certainly be *way, way* below a thousand nm in size so I'm 
not concerned in the slightest. 
 
Providing that the water is crystal clear and transparent, and appears to have 
an internal reflection of itself {hard to explain that}, then I don't believe 
there is absolutely anything wrong with it, from clear right on thru to golden, 
I may just take a little less of it in my daily regimen that's all, or praps 
I'll choose that solution for treating open wounds rather than a clear solution 
due to there being more/larger particles present for prevention of possible 
infection from external sources.
 
I do use the "thermal stirrer" that i bought from ode. Is that enough stirring 
power? I was wondering if this could be the problem?
# Yep, no worries, just thought I'd ask that's all .
 
I will start cleaning the trodes at more regular intervals, and see if it 
helps. Thanks for your help, and any more advise would be greatly appreciated!
# The thing is, contaminants are ones worst nightmare with this stuff, and they 
can be introduced from anywhere and from any number of sources.  In my case, 
because I make my own units and don't have auto shutoff, I minimise the risk of 
any 'stuff' falling off my trodes into the water by removing them from the 
water to clean them every 30 minutes...if they need it or not!  It doesn't take 
me all that long to reach my desired ppm anyway so I just pick a time for 
production when I've nothing else pressing to do.
 
Each to their own of course, but that's my considered opinion on the subject of 
colour .
 
N.

Thanks to all others who replied as well-
Kenny
  

Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[ted mozell]

 Hi Kenny,  I went through this very exact same  problem same exact set up .
I just wanted to start out with clear solution i ended up going through six
different distilled waters to find some that came out clear and it was wally
mart water that gave me the clear  . I have bought some water from one
wallyworld  and had it turn yellow and another batch from a different store
be clear, same jars ,same silver puppy it was driving me nuts. These days i
don't really care what color unless I'm making it for someone else  i just
use it. Just wash the jars in hot water and then rinse  with distilled water
you will eventually make a sparkling clear batch  Enjoy good health Ted


On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:28 PM, Kenny laguna wrote:

>  Hi Neville,
>
> Its not that i have anything against yellow CS. From what i understand,
> clear is just better, as the particle size is smaller. Is there really much
> of a difference between yellow and clear CS?  I do use the "thermal stirrer"
> that i bought from ode. Is that enough stirring power? I was wondering if
> this could be the problem?
>
> I will start cleaning the trodes at more regular intervals, and see if it
> helps. Thanks for your help, and any more advise would be greatly
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks to all others who replied as well-
> Kenny
>

Re: CS>CS study in vivo

[David AuBuchon]

FYI, the website author with that quote let me know that it is a piece
of info she has had for many years, and unfortunately no longer has
the reference.

~David
http://scientificliving.net/

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 1:53 PM, David AuBuchon
 wrote:
> I found this online, but cannot find any clue to the real source of
> this claim of an in vivo study on CS.  Any clues:
>
> "More Research on Colloidal Silver - A one year long study completed
> at Harvard and Cambridge Universities shows that CS is effective as an
> anti-viral, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and natural antibiotic.  This
> study showed CS to be effective in humans with sinus infections,
> respiratory infection, bronchitis, strep throat, retro-viral
> infections, thrush (yeast), ear infections, fungal infections, urinary
> tract infections, and conjunctivitis.  No failures were reported in
> this study.  CS performed better than the five major classes of
> antibiotics in killing bacteria.  Testing is on-going."
>
> ~David
> http://scientificliving.net/
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>  
> Archives:
>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>
>
>

RE: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Kenny laguna]

Hi Neville,
 
Its not that i have anything against yellow CS. From what i understand, clear 
is just better, as the particle size is smaller. Is there really much of a 
difference between yellow and clear CS?  I do use the "thermal stirrer" that i 
bought from ode. Is that enough stirring power? I was wondering if this could 
be the problem?
 
I will start cleaning the trodes at more regular intervals, and see if it 
helps. Thanks for your help, and any more advise would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks to all others who replied as well-
Kenny 

CS> Not much of a TE, slight yellow tinge, film on electrode

[Anthony Cullingworth]

This is my first time posting here, as well as making CS.  I just bought a 
SG6.  Using a 1 quart mason jar, washed with dish soap, rinsed very well  and 
then rinsed with DI water, I made my first couple of batches using DW reading 
<1uS/cm.  I do not get much of a Tyndall effect when done, the water has a 
slight yellow tinge to it.  Also I had a film on one of the electrodes that 
fell off when pulling the unit off of the jar.  The majority of the film that 
fell off of the electrode ended up in a couple of little ball like pieces on 
the bottom of the jar.  Is the film normal?  Is it alright not to have a strong 
TE?  Is it alright to have a yellow tinge?  Is it alright to a have all three 
at the same time?
Thanks in advance for any replies.

Anthony


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database 5874 (20110214) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

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RE: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Neville Munn]

What've you got against yellow?
 
Any number of reasons for it, but I'd be starting with cleaning those trodes at 
regular timed intervals *way* before any "buildup" becomes apparant.  You 
didn't say if you stir, so if that jar is 32oz I'll assume you incorporate 
stirring?
 
Don't forget to let me know the reason why you don't "...really want the pale 
yellow colour"?
 
N.
 


From: anugal_...@hotmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 11:36:50 -0500
Subject: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?




Hi all,
 
For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver Puppy, and 
can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different brands of 
distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter. Ive been using 
"auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the electrodes 1 time (when 
heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i use are brand new, a 
rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch the electrodes with 
anything but a clean paper towel.
 
Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color, I've 
tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has set for 
at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a much 
darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
 
Thank you for your help!
  

Re: CS>Anyone what what is actually in Live-Silver ?

[David AuBuchon]

Just bumping this thread, as I am really interested for input.  Also, I
notice that there is a Nancy Robey who wrote some stuff of colloidal silver
and AIDS, and the live-silver website has a guy names Marvin Robey.  I
wonder what the relation is.

~David
http://scientificliving.net/

On Thu, Feb 10, 2011 at 4:29 PM, David AuBuchon wrote:

> Sorry, the link to the distribution is here:
> http://www.live-silver.com/particlesize.htm
>
> ~David
>
> On Thu, Feb 10, 2011 at 4:19 PM, David AuBuchon
>  wrote:
> > Anyone know about this brand of CS?
> >
> > http://www.live-silver.com/Silverbest.htm
> >
> > It has a strong tyndall, but also has a particle size distribution
> > chart that claims less than 5nm:
> >
> > http://www.live-silver.com/Silverbest.htm
> >
> > Based on what they write about "splitting particles", I am guessing
> > this is hydrogen peroxide added to CS?  Any thoughts?  I am surprised
> > that adding peroxide could make a tyndall that strong, especially in
> > daylight.  I am wondering if maybe this is also a high ppm product?
> > Them claim only 20ppm.  Also, they plainly claim it is used by doctors
> > intravenously on their homepage!  Pretty bold!
> >
> > And this is the first time I had heard of that lab who did their
> measurement:
> >
> > http://www.microtrac.com/Services/LabServices/LabPricing.aspx
> >
> > They say $50 for a particle size distribution.  Not a bad price.
> > Anyone know how this equipment compares to CSLs (Frank's)
> > measurements?  They both say "light scattering".
> >
> > Thanks,
> > ~David
> > http://scientificliving.net/
> >
> >
> > --
> > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
> >  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
> >
> > Unsubscribe:
> >  
> > Archives:
> >  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
> >
> > Off-Topic discussions: 
> > List Owner: Mike Devour 
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[jaxi]

40-50 drops seems excessive.

I get complete clearing with 6 drops of 3% in a quart jar.  It even worked
for my super strength topical EIS.

I did try adding h2o2 to my EIS before 48 hrs one time and it got kind of
muddy/cloudy and didn't clear.  It is why I always wait at least 48 hrs now.

Jaxi

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 1:25 PM, David AuBuchon wrote:

> Some say 1 drop of 35% peroxide per 8 oz.  So that would be closer to 40 or
> 50 drops of 3% peroxide- way more than what you used.  You can keep adding
> peroxide little by little until it turns clear.
>
> I would try not to clean the electrode during the brewing if possible.
>
> Also, I just bought some new mason jars and they have a smell.  I washed
> thoroughly with DW and vinegar, then cleaned out the vinegar with just DW.
> Even so, there is a faint odor.  I think new jars spoiling the first couple
> batches is a real possibility.
>
> ~David
> http://scientificliving.net/
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 9:37 AM, jaxi  wrote:
>
>> You need to wait a little longer.  48 hrs I think.  And I think Ode said 6
>> drops for a quart - that is what I use.  I brew (set it up before I leave
>> for work and it is usually done by the time I get home) - decant - let sit
>> for at least 48 hrs - add 6 drops 3% food grade h2o2 and leave it overnight
>> usually - it is always completely clear by morning.  I think it clears
>> faster than that but I usually get the next jar ready when almost finished
>> with the last jar so I am not in a rush for it.
>>
>> But please understand a pale yellow is not a problem.  It is an astheitics
>> thing mostly.  And some I use immediately after brewing - no h2o2 added.
>> The very pale yellow does not mean it is in any way bad for you.  In fact
>> that used to be the goal color if I recall my reading of archives and such
>> correctly.
>>
>> Jaxi
>>
>>   On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 10:36 AM, Kenny laguna 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver
>>> Puppy, and can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different
>>> brands of distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter.
>>> Ive been using "auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the
>>> electrodes 1 time (when heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i
>>> use are brand new, a rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch
>>> the electrodes with anything but a clean paper towel.
>>>
>>> Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color,
>>> I've tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has
>>> set for at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a
>>> much darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
>>>
>>> Thank you for your help!
>>>
>>
>>
>

Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[David AuBuchon]

Some say 1 drop of 35% peroxide per 8 oz.  So that would be closer to 40 or
50 drops of 3% peroxide- way more than what you used.  You can keep adding
peroxide little by little until it turns clear.

I would try not to clean the electrode during the brewing if possible.

Also, I just bought some new mason jars and they have a smell.  I washed
thoroughly with DW and vinegar, then cleaned out the vinegar with just DW.
Even so, there is a faint odor.  I think new jars spoiling the first couple
batches is a real possibility.

~David
http://scientificliving.net/

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 9:37 AM, jaxi  wrote:

> You need to wait a little longer.  48 hrs I think.  And I think Ode said 6
> drops for a quart - that is what I use.  I brew (set it up before I leave
> for work and it is usually done by the time I get home) - decant - let sit
> for at least 48 hrs - add 6 drops 3% food grade h2o2 and leave it overnight
> usually - it is always completely clear by morning.  I think it clears
> faster than that but I usually get the next jar ready when almost finished
> with the last jar so I am not in a rush for it.
>
> But please understand a pale yellow is not a problem.  It is an astheitics
> thing mostly.  And some I use immediately after brewing - no h2o2 added.
> The very pale yellow does not mean it is in any way bad for you.  In fact
> that used to be the goal color if I recall my reading of archives and such
> correctly.
>
> Jaxi
>
> On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 10:36 AM, Kenny laguna wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver
>> Puppy, and can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different
>> brands of distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter.
>> Ive been using "auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the
>> electrodes 1 time (when heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i
>> use are brand new, a rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch
>> the electrodes with anything but a clean paper towel.
>>
>> Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color,
>> I've tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has
>> set for at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a
>> much darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
>>
>> Thank you for your help!
>>
>
>

Re: CS>CS falling out of suspesion

[Marshall]

I believe it was around 5 ppm.

Marshall

On 2/14/2011 11:53 AM, Frank wrote:

Marshall Can you disclose the ppm of your 10 year old susp.?
Frank
*From:* Marshall Dudley 
*Sent:* Monday, February 14, 2011 11:45 AM
*To:* silver-list@eskimo.com 
*Subject:* Re: CS>CS falling out of suspesion
I am not sure what they mean by a long shelf life. I have several 
bottles that are over 10 years old that are still in suspension.  If 
theirs does not have a long shelf life, then they are doing something 
wrong, storing in contaminated bottles,  or using contaminated water 
when it is made.


Marshall

On 2/11/2011 10:38 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:




The statement below was posted in one of my other groupscould I 
get some clarity from people in the group about this please?

thanks in advance Debbie
As for storing CS, unfortunately it does not have a long shelf life.
The silver particles and ions fall out of suspension after a period 
of time. I think they lose their electrical charge and clump 
together, most commercially available CS contain stabilizers.

Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[jaxi]

You need to wait a little longer.  48 hrs I think.  And I think Ode said 6
drops for a quart - that is what I use.  I brew (set it up before I leave
for work and it is usually done by the time I get home) - decant - let sit
for at least 48 hrs - add 6 drops 3% food grade h2o2 and leave it overnight
usually - it is always completely clear by morning.  I think it clears
faster than that but I usually get the next jar ready when almost finished
with the last jar so I am not in a rush for it.

But please understand a pale yellow is not a problem.  It is an astheitics
thing mostly.  And some I use immediately after brewing - no h2o2 added.
The very pale yellow does not mean it is in any way bad for you.  In fact
that used to be the goal color if I recall my reading of archives and such
correctly.

Jaxi

On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 10:36 AM, Kenny laguna wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver Puppy,
> and can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different brands
> of distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter. Ive been
> using "auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the electrodes 1 time
> (when heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i use are brand
> new, a rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch the electrodes
> with anything but a clean paper towel.
>
> Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color,
> I've tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has
> set for at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a
> much darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
>
> Thank you for your help!
>

Re: CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Guyot Léna]

Hi Kenny,
I use the same set-up. You seem to be doing everything right. The only  
time I got yellow CS was when I put it in a cut crystal decanter. I  
think it was glass with lead content. Maybe the jars are a different  
glass than usual.  What does Ode Coyote say?


Be well,
Léna
On Feb 14, 2011, at 11:36 AM, Kenny laguna wrote:

Hi all,

For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver  
Puppy, and can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3  
different brands of distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my  
TDS-1 meter. Ive been using "auto shutoff" with direct current, and  
cleaning the electrodes 1 time (when heavy buildup) during the  
process. My canning jars i use are brand new, a rinsed very well with  
distilled water. I never touch the electrodes with anything but a  
clean paper towel.


Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow"  
color, I've tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS  
after it has set for at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the  
CS actually gets a much darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is  
happening?


Thank you for your help!

Re: CS>CS falling out of suspesion

[Frank]

Marshall Can you disclose the ppm of your 10 year old susp.?
Frank

From: Marshall Dudley 
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 11:45 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
Subject: Re: CS>CS falling out of suspesion

I am not sure what they mean by a long shelf life. I have several bottles that 
are over 10 years old that are still in suspension.  If theirs does not have a 
long shelf life, then they are doing something wrong, storing in contaminated 
bottles,  or using contaminated water when it is made.

Marshall

On 2/11/2011 10:38 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote: 

 
   
The statement below was posted in one of my other 
groupscould I get some clarity from people in the group about this please?
thanks in advance Debbie

As for storing CS, unfortunately it does not have a long 
shelf life.
The silver particles and ions fall out of suspension after 
a period of time. I think they lose their electrical charge and clump together, 
most commercially available CS contain stabilizers.

   

   
 
 
   

Re: CS>CS falling out of suspesion

[Marshall Dudley]

I am not sure what they mean by a long shelf life. I have several 
bottles that are over 10 years old that are still in suspension.  If 
theirs does not have a long shelf life, then they are doing something 
wrong, storing in contaminated bottles,  or using contaminated water 
when it is made.


Marshall

On 2/11/2011 10:38 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:




The statement below was posted in one of my other groupscould I 
get some clarity from people in the group about this please?

thanks in advance Debbie
As for storing CS, unfortunately it does not have a long shelf life.
The silver particles and ions fall out of suspension after a period of 
time. I think they lose their electrical charge and clump together, 
most commercially available CS contain stabilizers.

CS>Adding H2O2 doesnt seem to be working for me?

[Kenny laguna]

Hi all,
 
For some reason, after the first couple batches of CS from my Silver Puppy, and 
can only seem to make "pale yellow" CS now. Ive tried 3 different brands of 
distilled water (all test either 000 or 001) on my TDS-1 meter. Ive been using 
"auto shutoff" with direct current, and cleaning the electrodes 1 time (when 
heavy buildup) during the process. My canning jars i use are brand new, a 
rinsed very well with distilled water. I never touch the electrodes with 
anything but a clean paper towel.
 
Here is my question- since i really don't want the "pale yellow" color, I've 
tried adding 3% hydrogen peroxide (2 drops) to 32oz of CS after it has set for 
at least 24 hours. Instead of it clearing up, the CS actually gets a much 
darker yellow! Does anybody know why this is happening?
 
Thank you for your help!