CS>Nebulizing agains Covid-19

[Reid Harvey]

When and if any on the list need to nebulize, how often and for how long
would this be?

Re: CS>Making CS

[Ode Coyote]

You won't hurt the 'puppy' even with a dead short..it is protected every
which a-way.
 WATER quality is the biggest variable.
A TDS meter can be off...especially if tweeked by a water filter maker to
read low.

Submitted by odecoyote  on Tue,
06/30/2015 - 07:48

To test for water contamination: [Using the generator ]

Fill container with fresh water to the proper level ..set everything up
normally.
Start running the batch in "manual" mode. ["Silver 9"  Press the button so
the Yellow LED lights up ]
Observe how bright the Green/Red LED is on top.
 Now sloowly pull the generator/electrode assembly out of the water while
watching the LED.

If that LED DOESN'T start getting dimmer *immediately*...that water
is no good.
If the LED starts dimming when the electrodes are nearly out of the
water...it's WAY no good.
If it doesn't dim at all before the electrodes clear the water and the LED
goes out...that water is WAY WAY no good. [20 uS or over]
[Incidentally, the reverse works to tell you how far along you are.  If the
“CS” looks like “bad water”..the batch is about done ]


Solution:
Get a different jug of water.
Make sure you aren't contaminating good water with water spots, dirty jar
or even finger prints.

The best way to clean a jar is to boil distilled water in it...[fill it /
Nuke it]


 There are many ways to contaminate water and no two jugs of water are
exactly the same regardless of who distilled and bottled it.

[Most of them are fine, but everybody has a bad day now and then]

***If the water is EXTREMELY pure, you may need a pitch dark room to
see that the LED is lit at all.***






** COM-100 Meters will be set to use “As IS” in CS before shipping.

All hand held PWT/TDS/PPM meters work the same way. They actually measure
conductivity not PPM. They are simply not the same thing.

TDS (PPM) meters such as the TDS3 also measure conductivity but then
convert that measurement to an estimated PPM using water industry standard
tables for dissolved salts. [NaCl in this case] (also known as Total
Dissolved Solids or TDS)

Since Ionic/Colloidal Silver is not a mineral salt, it behaves differently
and requires a different technique for reading the TDS meter.

The reading can generally be taken ‘as is’ when checking pure distilled
water or when checking any other water source such as tap or well water.
(ie 200 on the meter = 200 PPM)
However, when checking Colloidal Silver made with pure distilled water the
reading should be doubled. [If it reads 10, it’s actually 20 PPM of
colloidal silver]

Due to range and resolution limitations,  when measuring colloidal silver
with this meter  you should also allow for an error factor of at least +/-
10% . So for example 10 on the TDS meter could be as high as 22 PPM or as
low as 18 PPM  (when doubled).

Meters such as the Hanna PWT, the HM Digital EC3 and COM-100 read out
directly in Microsiemens of Conductivity [uS].
The COM100 also reads out in 3 different scenarios for PPM depending on the
suspected dominant mineral salt content.
Silver water is NOT salt water.

To get an idea of what the PPM is in CS, use 1uS = ~1 PPM.
 Since the conductivity will start dropping as soon as power is off, Use
Meter immediately after shutdown.
Concentrations over the saturation point of Ionic Silver in water [~ 13.3
PPM ] will progressively and variably form more and more non-conductive
“particles” accounting for some of the difference between Faraday Equation
Prediction vs Conductivity Monitoring.
 Beyond around 25 PPM in silver water a meter reading will have
considerable slew towards the low side and a batch may never register more
than 30 uS the day after it’s done even though it may really be 50+ PPM

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:31 AM  wrote:

> *Lady I am no expert but I can not imagine not knowing how to work a
> Silver Puppy with a power supply that plugs into the wall and into the
> Silver Puppy. So I am going to assume that your problem is the water. It is
> not really a too high or too low of a water level because only the CS is
> made with what element is in the water. So I am going to use the S.W.A.G.
> system to answer your question. That stands for Scientific Wild Ass Guess.
> I think your problem might be that you forgot to use distilled water. If
> you use regular tap water it has minerals in it and will short out the
> process. May even damage your power supply. Some distilled water is not
> pure enough and still has minerals in it and won’t work. That is why your
> little tester should be put into the water and it should read “0” zero
> before you begin. Hope this helps.*
>
>
>
> *Floyd*
>
>
>
> *From:* Williams 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 12, 2020 8:41 PM
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Subject:* CS>Making CS
>
>
>
>
>
> HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy
> that can help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only
> made two batches.   Don't even know how I d

Re: CS>TDS meter

[Ode Coyote]

HM Digital EC-3 [uS] or COM-100 [uS/TDS/PPM]   are good meters, better and
cheaper than the Hanna PWT

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 1:08 PM Marshall  wrote:

> What is recommended for a TDS or uS meter for CS now.  It seems that
> Hanna does not sell the one I bought years ago any more.
>
> Also what is the recommended source for fine silver sheets? I think I
> bought from ccsilver.com a decade ago, but I don't find fine silver
> sheets listed with them any more.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marshall
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>   Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>   
> Archives:
>   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>
>
>

CS>Re: CS> Chinese Using “Silver Fogger Machine” to Beat Coronavirus WATER LEVEL

[Ode Coyote]

Auto off calibration uses electrode surface area as one of the
factors...the other is distance apart, so they also need to be at least
'eyeball' parallel so no part is closer than any other part.
Water should be as high as you can get it without actually touching the
electrode sockets.

ode

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:17 PM Rowena  wrote:

> On the photo
> https://silverpuppy.com/product/products/silver-9-cs-generator the water
> level is visible; would this be useful to you in deciding how much
> distilled water to use? I see the description says the very interesting
> rounded shape means you lose less silver from the rods, which would be
> great, and also that there is no need for a stirrer. So the water in
> your jar would not be bubbling and leaping above the water level - so
> why not take it up as high as you can so you make any wear to the silver
> rods even more even?
>
> I don't  have a Silver Puppy, mine is more primitive, and I have just
> been given a second one, old but unused, with another four silver rods,
> so I'm well supplied.
>
> My rods are just the plain square stick kind; I am using a pair with
> less 'wear' than my original rods, but the first set would also be quite
> usable and  maybe I should go back to them to use them up in
> chronological order. If I had continued making CS after I ran out of my
> original big bottle of DW using the first pair of rods, I imagine they
> would have worn away to little stumps like those I saw when I picked up
> my generator years ago in South Perth. A lady had been using her
> generator so long the rods weren't really usable any more, and she had
> come to pick up some new rods.
>
> A couple I had been making CS for bought me a pair of new rods and also
> an aquarium bubbler, so I still  use that to mix the water and stop
> silver 'icicles' forming. You likely would not have that worry. The
> bubbles burst and send water upwards on to the underside of the metal
> lid, so I don't have the water level quite as high as I likely could; I
> am wondering whether to stop using the bubbler, as the noise seems to
> reverberate through the house from the workbench.
>
> So my reply would be to fill the jar as high as you can without losing
> any over the edge.
>
> I am now able to get DW in much smaller and more manageable bottles
> ("Refresh" brand, Perth, Western Australia) so the problem of managing
> the huge drinking fountain bottles no longer exists. Also, I don't have
> to make the long trip to the HFS to buy it and return the empty bottle,
> but pick it up at my local grocery store. So I am in production again.
>
> If you have the water level low, the silver above the level won't get
> worn away, so you would be wasting that much silver. You want the silver
> in the water, not staying pristine above the water level.
>
> All the best with your endeavours. Even if you are still uncertain, make
> it anyway, high level or low. But you will make it at the highest level
> you can, I'm sure.
>
> By the way, this couple had been told the yellow product was the best,
> so they asked me to make it so it was yellow. To do that I had to run it
> for many hours.  I told them it wasn't necessary, but it was a long time
> before they heard a different story and said they would like it clear,
> after all.
>
> Rowena
>
>
> On 13/03/2020 10:53 pm, Da Darrin wrote:
> > I don't know how high or low the water level should be.
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>   Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>   
> Archives:
>   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>
>
>