[RCSE] WD-40, antenna, etc

2001-04-24 Thread Bill Conkling

We've all heard it I'm sure, If it moves and shouldn't, use 'Duct-tape', if
doesn't and it should use WD-40.

WD-40 is a water displacement treatment.  If you are protecting metal from
the ravages of water, WD-40 is good.  If you want to loosen a rested bolt,
then Liquid Wrench is better and faster.  If you want to lubricate, then
some kind of petroleum or synthetic lubricant is the choice.
The major cause of problems with our antennas is dirt.  I is attracted to
the oily resedue left by petroleum based lubricants and causes wear and that
leads to looseness.  The best thing we can do is keep the antenna clean.
Eliminate the buildup of dirt and grime.  I suspect that the clean dry
antenna is better than one with oily residue.

bc

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RE: [RCSE] Anti-virus software - a tale of woe

2001-04-24 Thread Barrett Stridiron

Yup.  Good book.  The ending is a bit preachy, though.

 -- Barrett

-Original Message-
From: Ben Diss [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 12:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: 'Steven Bixby'; 'Dave Seay';
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Anti-virus software - a tale of woe


Have you read the book The Cuckoos Egg?  Great story about tracking down
hackers.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0743411463/

-Ben


Barrett Stridiron wrote:

  What is really surprising is how often I am alerted that someone is
trying
  to break in to my computer, even with a modem connection. Subseven
Trojan
  is the usual warning. It seems there are a lot of junior hackers out
 there...

 Script Kiddies is the technical term for these folks.
 Bastards works, too.

  The average internet user's setup does not run any servers, so there are
 no
  real break-in points to exploit even.  I suspect the gross majority of
  hackers don't even bother with sites that aren't known commercial or
  government entities.

  We need to clear up a point.  There is Anti-Virus software and Firewall
  software.  Norton security 2001 has both (I believe).  The attempts you
 are
  talking about are being thwarted by the firewall.  If anyone is running
a
  cable modem or DSL modem and does not have a firewall, they are asking
for
  trouble.

 Funny this subject should come up now... modem users can be at risk.

 The linux box in the basement at my home, which is a DHCP server, firewall
 and gateway for my home network, got hacked recently.  I'm running Red Hat
 6.2 on it.  Since my internet connection is dialup (the local phone
company
 wants $1200/month for a 128K DSL connection! Pass.) with no fixed IP
 address, I assumed there would be no major security problems, and didn't
 lock it down.

 Saturday night, I was in the basement finishing a plane when I heard the
 modem fire up.  Not unusual, as windows machines on the LAN sometimes
cause
 the gateway to dial for their who has requests.  These will normally
time
 out within two minutes.

 Twenty minutes later, I happened to glance at the modem.  The SD (send)
 light was on, steady.

 WTF?

 Something on the LAN is sending a lot of data, but what?  All the Windows
 machines were either switched off or asleep; the only machines active were
 my Powermac G3 (playing MP3s), the Linux file server, and the Linux
gateway.

 A check of the traffic out of the gateway revealed a perl script was
 scanning external IP addresses, and logging the results to a hidden file.

 Shit!

 I killed the offending process, shut down the modem connection, and
started
 digging.

 Thanks to my hidden security logs (the standard system logs had all been
 scrupulously cleaned by the invader), I discovered the following:
  - In early March, someone polled my machine and discovered its security
 holes.
  - Shortly afterward, my (encrypted) password file was transferred out via
 ftp.
  - User OPERATOR logged in remotely, added two new user accounts ISHII and
 OBREGON.
  - ISHII and OBREGON each logged in and transferred a single file to their
 account.
  - Three rootkits were installed and activated.

 One ran the IP address scanner/logger.

 Another tracked how many users were logged in, relisted the password file
 and all known internal LAN connections at regular intervals.  The culled
 information was (supposed) to be sent via email.  (No working email on the
 firewall box - this may have saved other machines on my LAN from
discovery)

 The most insidious (and frankly, ingenious) one sniffed all IP traffic
 passing through the firewall and logged the most interesting tidbits to a
 hidden file.  This script caught damn near every unencrypted
 username/password combination that came by.  This includes my ISP account
 info, my multiple email accounts and my login info for *many* websites,
 INCLUDING PAYPAL.  =:^o

 I finished cleaning up the machine.  For now, it is running a slightly
 modified version of the firewall script I use on the servers here in the
 office.  Tonight, I plan to slay and rebuild the firewall at home, as I
 can't be sure that I caught everything.

 In the meanwhile, I'm changing every current password I have.

  -- Barrett

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[RCSE] Long pushrods

2001-04-24 Thread Matthew Lydon



With the demand for long pushrods growing, can we 
get the suppliers of carbon fiber stuff to meet our needs? Considering that the 
stuff is artificial, it shouldn't be a problem to grow 'em longer than 4 feet. 
These horror stories of spliced pushrods are making me itchy all 
over!

Perhaps an email campaign, harassing phone calls, 
petition drives and such.

Matt


[RCSE] Range with video onboard

2001-04-24 Thread Tord

here are always those who know how to up the
output on your tx (say using directional antennas, high-power 
ops), but in most cases the video link dies first!

It is normally less than 1000 yards, unless you use
pro stuff, satellite links or something likewise
exoctic.

A german group using 4.4 MHz equipment stated that their 
tv-tx range was about 800 meters, depending on direction, 
and they use small directional antennas!

I gather that Tom Rust at times has run into rf problems, 
with the tv camera eventually giving a very close view of 
the terra firma before transforming into something that 
might once have been a glider with tv-equipment onboard.

There is simply no room in most models for high-power tv- 
equipment, so you will have to rely on directional antennas 
and such, and asistants, working the amplifiers and antennas, 
if you want to get far from your home base. And a safety pilot
will den needed as well!

For selfnavigating aircraft (aka UAVs), whichever size, you 
still want to have a take-over-and-bring-home function 
(a bit like a TACOMA (sp?) Herc). And a selfdestruct, and
emergency parachutes!

We are now speaking LOTs of money, and extremely complex 
operations, not least legal-wise, as AF, ATR and other 
agencies must be cooperated with.

The among best pictures I've seen have all been taken from 
simple aircraft, like the Teddy and a HLG!

So a two miles radius, at the very most, for us without 
sponsorship from CIA, The Sultanate of Burnei or similar 
institutions!

EPP models are good as they provide some shock protection 
for your equipment an ability to take off almost anywhere! 
Size is a matter of legalities, taste and funds.

Tord,
Sweden

PS A lot forget that the a badly taken photo doesn't get better 
if taken from a model airplane, and that their own upturned 
faces aren't the most interesting either!

As a technical feat aerial photos are as old as flight itself, 
so while it at times can get thrilling, as when some strap their 
digital camcorder on the back of their models and then start low-level 
aerobatics, while photos of the local model airfield seldom is!

URL:http://www.ozemail.com.au/~majali/Zagi-THL.jpg

URL:http://www.ozemail.com.au/~majali/Zagi-N-big.jpg

URL:http://www.tord.nu

Local weather: http://www.reab.se/weather.html
-- 
If reply difficulties - use [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Tord S. Eriksson, Ovralidsg.25:5, S-422 47 Hisings Backa, Sweden
Tel. (mobile): +46 (0)736 77 88 96

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[RCSE] Camber/Reflex Settings?

2001-04-24 Thread Tom Sheehy

I've slowly been working my way up the glider food chain (foamie, built up, 
composite, etc..) and now have a couple of planes which I need 
help/suggestions setting up.  One is an electric Graupner Cumulus 2000, 
which has ailerons/v-tail, the other is a Flamingo HLG which has full 
ailerons/spoilerons and a v-tail.

I've got the basics down and can fly the models as they are setup now 
without any trouble (in fact, both are really nice planes for where and how 
I fly), but I'm looking to learn more about the performance gains that can 
be had by making minor adjustments to the control surfaces.

I often read here about folks adjusting the camber/reflex on their planes 
while flying to achieve various results.  I haven't been able to find a 
source for information on how/why and how much these settings can affect a 
plane's performance.

For example, on both these planes, I have a trim knob on my Futaba Tx which 
allows me to change the aileron trim up and down to provide reflex or 
camber, but I have no idea what the appropriate control throws should be.. 
is 1/8 (just picking a random amount) a little or a lot when you are 
changing the profile of a wing?  What guidelines should I use to set the 
appropriate range of motion, and when should I use each?

Another question specific to v-tail/aileron models.. how many of you fly 
with rudder/aileron coupling?  Right now I have both of my planes set up so 
that I can switch between coupled and uncoupled modes, but was wondering 
what most people did?  Do you like to 'fly' the tail 100% of the time, or 
prefer the simplicity of 'setting it and forgetting it'?

Thanks for any help..

-- Tom
_
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[RCSE] Ducky nausea

2001-04-24 Thread Ed Berris



The moto of the soaring exchange might have to be 
changed to OPINION BEFORE KNOWLEDGE.

I've heard so many contradictory opinions about the 
use of coil wound antennas that if I didn't know better I really be 
confused.

It's is hard to know why some of my fellow pilots 
have had such HORRIBLE results using coil wound antennas while so many others 
have had no problems at all.

One thing is clear to me, at least, and that is 
that there is no REAL evidence that the trouble was with the antenna 
itself.

One other thing is clear. It's time to move 
on from this subject. These posts are clogging up the exchange with 
unsound advise.

One guys says to use WD40 another says not to 
because it is not a lubricant and it evaporates. WD40 is many things 
including a lubricant. Don Edberg suggests the use of WD40 in his often 
misquoted article about antennas.

Others tell us about the near disasters when using 
a coil wound (rubber duck) antenna while many others (including me) report being 
able to fly their models to beyond vission. Who to 
believe?

I guess I'll just trust my own experience. 
Might it not be a good idea for you to do the same and if you have had not 
experience either way all I can say is good luck. These posts have proven 
nothing and I include my own.

Now, if you want to talk about what makes a good 
cornedbeef sandwich I think I can pontifcate. But, I guess that would be 
for another form.
Ed


Re: [RCSE] Long pushrods

2001-04-24 Thread Karlton Spindle



We have them in Europe but I have not imported any. I will put some 
on the next order...

Smooth Sailing,Karlton Spindlehttp://www.MultiplexRC.com

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Matthew Lydon 

  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:23 
  AM
  Subject: [RCSE] Long pushrods
  
  With the demand for long pushrods growing, can we 
  get the suppliers of carbon fiber stuff to meet our needs? Considering that 
  the stuff is artificial, it shouldn't be a problem to grow 'em longer than 4 
  feet. These horror stories of spliced pushrods are making me itchy all 
  over!
  
  Perhaps an email campaign, harassing phone calls, 
  petition drives and such.
  
  Matt


Re: [RCSE] Range with video onboard

2001-04-24 Thread Brett Jaffee

I've been experimenting with inexpensive (read cheap) on board video for a while, so 
far without much success.  It seems like a big hassle, especially since I really don't 
want to fly the plane from the video...i just want to get some cool stuff recorded.  I 
think the best solution to this is to get a  video camera and strap it to the plane, 
as Paul Naton did in Endless Lift 2.  Of course, this requires a somewhat large plane 
and some good lift, not to mention risking your video camera.  My hope is that smaller 
video cameras will come down in price fairly soon and make it worth trying.  Either 
that, or I'll try to find a used/damaged camera (for example, a camera with a broken 
view finder, which i really don't need anyway).

Tord wrote:

 here are always those who know how to up the
 output on your tx (say using directional antennas, high-power
 ops), but in most cases the video link dies first!

 It is normally less than 1000 yards, unless you use
 pro stuff, satellite links or something likewise
 exoctic.

 A german group using 4.4 MHz equipment stated that their
 tv-tx range was about 800 meters, depending on direction,
 and they use small directional antennas!

 I gather that Tom Rust at times has run into rf problems,
 with the tv camera eventually giving a very close view of
 the terra firma before transforming into something that
 might once have been a glider with tv-equipment onboard.

 There is simply no room in most models for high-power tv-
 equipment, so you will have to rely on directional antennas
 and such, and asistants, working the amplifiers and antennas,
 if you want to get far from your home base. And a safety pilot
 will den needed as well!

 For selfnavigating aircraft (aka UAVs), whichever size, you
 still want to have a take-over-and-bring-home function
 (a bit like a TACOMA (sp?) Herc). And a selfdestruct, and
 emergency parachutes!

 We are now speaking LOTs of money, and extremely complex
 operations, not least legal-wise, as AF, ATR and other
 agencies must be cooperated with.

 The among best pictures I've seen have all been taken from
 simple aircraft, like the Teddy and a HLG!

 So a two miles radius, at the very most, for us without
 sponsorship from CIA, The Sultanate of Burnei or similar
 institutions!

 EPP models are good as they provide some shock protection
 for your equipment an ability to take off almost anywhere!
 Size is a matter of legalities, taste and funds.

 Tord,
 Sweden

 PS A lot forget that the a badly taken photo doesn't get better
 if taken from a model airplane, and that their own upturned
 faces aren't the most interesting either!

 As a technical feat aerial photos are as old as flight itself,
 so while it at times can get thrilling, as when some strap their
 digital camcorder on the back of their models and then start low-level
 aerobatics, while photos of the local model airfield seldom is!

 URL:http://www.ozemail.com.au/~majali/Zagi-THL.jpg

 URL:http://www.ozemail.com.au/~majali/Zagi-N-big.jpg

 URL:http://www.tord.nu

 Local weather: http://www.reab.se/weather.html
 --
 If reply difficulties - use [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Tord S. Eriksson, Ovralidsg.25:5, S-422 47 Hisings Backa, Sweden
 Tel. (mobile): +46 (0)736 77 88 96

 RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send subscribe and 
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Re: [RCSE] Range with video onboard

2001-04-24 Thread Karlton Spindle

I have a really cool camera that works great I should take it out this
weekend to the scale event at banos.

Smooth Sailing,
Karlton Spindle
http://www.MultiplexRC.com

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Re: [RCSE] Range with video onboard

2001-04-24 Thread Brett Jaffee

Just promise you'll get some speed runs in the shots!  Gotta see some terrain whizzing 
by!  Watching video from a  glider circling or even doing loops at 800 feet gets old 
pretty quickly.

Has anyone done onboard video from a plane DS'ing yet?  This could be your chance! :-)

Karlton Spindle wrote:

 I have a really cool camera that works great I should take it out this
 weekend to the scale event at banos.

 Smooth Sailing,
 Karlton Spindle
 http://www.MultiplexRC.com

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Re: [RCSE] Camber/Reflex Settings?

2001-04-24 Thread Paul Klissner

Camber is VERY useful for getting more lift on light
days.  Works better on some airfoils than others.
Its never more than 3-5 degrees to be really effective.
1/8 is probably too much for a lot of cases.   I'd say
you get most of your benefit in the 0-3/32 region,
but it probably depends on the ship.

A slight drooping of the trailing edge often does wonders,
especially for 'fast' airfoils with no natural camber (downward
curving) of the TE.

There are plenty of times I've only been able to fly a sloper
on a light day by having camber.

As for the ruddervators for slopers.  I've had about 4 six-servo
slopers and I've never found the extra rudder servo worth it
for a sloper.  If I have a rudder servo on a v-tail I usually
turn it off!  It only messes up the roll.   Recently I built a 6-servo
sloper as a 5 servo version. Gave me more room in the canopy.

I don't miss it one iota.

On my TD planes, I use rudders for flying thermals.  In that kind
of flying a rudder is very important for making flat energy-efficient
turns.

For slopers the rudder function is good if you are really racing,
as in competition, where you are measuring tight times.

For a turn you *can* see a tightening of the turn with aileron/rudder
coupling, but it is not impressive enough to use in normal fun
or aerobatic flying, in fact you'll find yourself tending to 
fly with rudder switched off, because the flying is more exciting
overall without them.

-Paul


Tom Sheehy wrote:
 
 I've slowly been working my way up the glider food chain (foamie, built up,
 composite, etc..) and now have a couple of planes which I need
 help/suggestions setting up.  One is an electric Graupner Cumulus 2000,
 which has ailerons/v-tail, the other is a Flamingo HLG which has full
 ailerons/spoilerons and a v-tail.
 
 I've got the basics down and can fly the models as they are setup now
 without any trouble (in fact, both are really nice planes for where and how
 I fly), but I'm looking to learn more about the performance gains that can
 be had by making minor adjustments to the control surfaces.
 
 I often read here about folks adjusting the camber/reflex on their planes
 while flying to achieve various results.  I haven't been able to find a
 source for information on how/why and how much these settings can affect a
 plane's performance.
 
 For example, on both these planes, I have a trim knob on my Futaba Tx which
 allows me to change the aileron trim up and down to provide reflex or
 camber, but I have no idea what the appropriate control throws should be..
 is 1/8 (just picking a random amount) a little or a lot when you are
 changing the profile of a wing?  What guidelines should I use to set the
 appropriate range of motion, and when should I use each?
 
 Another question specific to v-tail/aileron models.. how many of you fly
 with rudder/aileron coupling?  Right now I have both of my planes set up so
 that I can switch between coupled and uncoupled modes, but was wondering
 what most people did?  Do you like to 'fly' the tail 100% of the time, or
 prefer the simplicity of 'setting it and forgetting it'?
 
 Thanks for any help..
 
 -- Tom
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Re: [RCSE] Camber/Reflex Settings?

2001-04-24 Thread Brett Jaffee

Paul Klissner wrote:

 On my TD planes, I use rudders for flying thermals.  In that kind
 of flying a rudder is very important for making flat energy-efficient
 turns.

Isn't flat and energy-effiiceint kind of any oxy-moron?  The former implies some 
deal of skid through the turn, which isn't energy effiencent.  This has had me 
somewhat confused for some time.  I took a full scale glider ride with a pretty 
experienced competition pilot a while back, and noticed that all the thermal turns we 
made were coordinated, with the little yaw string dealie straight up the canopy.  They 
also seemed to be at a fairly high bank angle.  The primary purose for the rudder 
seemed to be to prevent the huge amount of adverse yaw, not for flattening out the 
turn.  So why is it that r/c gliders do flat thermal turns in small thermals when the 
big guys do coordinated turns in big thermals?  Exposing the side of the airplane to 
the airstream by skidding around the turn can't be terribly efficient.  Is it just 
because our thermals are so much smaller that we need to skid around to stay inside 
them?

Can someone enlighten me on this?

Brett





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[RCSE] So you want a SCREAMING DEAL?

2001-04-24 Thread Karlton Spindle

http://multiplexrc.com/teddy.htm 
WITH motor Prop, 2 servos, 1 Speed Control, 1 Battery
$100.00 This week only!

http://multiplexrc.com/picojet.htm 
WITH motor prop, 2 SERVOS, 1 speed control, 1 battery
$129.95 This week only!
$139.00 for Combat version.

Online orders only we will take the discount at time of order processing.  
YOU MUST mention this deal when placing the order.
Offer good in the USA only does not include SH. 
Pico Jet is an oversized box per UPS :(

Dealers this is a Cyber Brick and Mortar deal!

Smooth Sailing,
Karlton Spindle
http://www.MultiplexRC.com

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Re: [RCSE] Camber/Reflex Settings?

2001-04-24 Thread tony estep

The sinking speed in a turn = straight line sinking
speed / (cos(theta)^(3/2)) where theta is the bank
angle -- provided that the L/D for a given angle of
attack is the same while circling as when flying
straight. Straight line sinking speed, in turn, is
forward speed / (L/D). Now if you're flying straight
and you decrease the L/D by skidding along in a yaw,
your sinking speed goes up. Similarly, if you fly a
circle in a skid, you sink faster than you would in a
nicely coordinated turn of the same diameter.

Of course, for some planes it might still be true that
if you're going to input only aileron or only rudder,
you could be better off using only rudder -- not
because you want a skidding turn, but because that
particular plane gives a more nearly coordinated turn
with rudder alone than it would with aileron alone;
the skid is less with rudder only than it would be
with aileron only. This depends on dihedral and force
arrangement. However, an ideally coordinated turn
(which for most planes requires inputs from both
rudder and aileron) is best.


 I took a full scale glider ride with a pretty
 experienced competition pilot a while back, and
 noticed that all the thermal turns we made were
 coordinated, with the little yaw string dealie
 straight up the canopy.  They also seemed to be at a
 fairly high bank angle.  The primary purose for the
 rudder seemed to be to prevent the huge amount of
 adverse yaw, not for flattening out the turn.  So
 why is it that r/c gliders do flat thermal turns in
 small thermals when the big guys do coordinated
 turns in big thermals


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