Rick

Its a belt and braces attitude that is used to ensure release, if you have
ever had a part or worse still, your plug stick in your mould you may
understand this reasoning.

As and release agent, wax or pva is essentialy a fragile film on the mould
surface, it is easy to damage during a layup so if we use 2 layers of mould
release we have a better chance.

Also pva can help to hide imperfections in the mould surface, tends to
release with the part, offering a protective layer while we trim the flash
off the finished part and you can easily spray most paints both over pva in
the mould, as a gel coat, and over the part after moulding as there should
be no wax contamination on the surface as it was sealed off by the pva.

I would never hesitate not to use pva in most cases. Its got too much going
for it!

Mike Reynell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Right way up, Upside down......who cares, I'm still flying...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick and Jill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mike Reynell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "yclui_hk"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 12:00 AM
Subject: Why use PVA???


> I'm curious? When and why should PVA be used.
>
> I've always had great results using wax alone on the couple of fuse and
> canopy molds that I've made. A bunch (10-12) of initial coats of the wax
> before the first layup and then a light coat of wax before each use. I've
> know others that have had sticking problems but the parts I've laid up
have
> literally popped out of the molds with a slight twisting of the mold to
free
> the part.
>
> Are there specific reasons or applications that require the use of PVA???
>
> RB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Reynell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "yclui_hk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 3:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [RCSE] Applying PVA after waxing ? It doesn't work
>
>
> > Hi
> >
> > Your problem is a common one that most have fallen into, and that is
that
> > the wax you are using is formulated with silicone for use in production
> > environments where they can't wait for PVA to dry.
> >
> > You will need to strip the wax off your mould and then re-apply an non
> > silicone wax from your local fibreglass supplies store. The should be
able
> > to guide you to the correct wax, its their job. Just tell them what you
> need
> > to use it for.
> >
> > I use several different waxes but my favourites would be Ceara J-1(a
paste
> > that is easy to apply and buff) and T R 108 (a wax that is more durable
> but
> > harder to remove).
> >
> > Note also that PVA quality varies a lot, with some that dont go on very
> well
> > unless sprayed. My current favorite is is called Partall Coverall film.
> >
> > Hope this helps. PS if wour local storeman wont or cant help you.....go
> > elsewhere!!
> >
> > Mike Reynell
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Right way up, Upside down......who cares, I'm still flying...
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "yclui_hk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 12:48 AM
> > Subject: [RCSE] Applying PVA after waxing ? It doesn't work
> >
> >
> > > Hello everybody,
> > >
> > > I have been told by many that the correct procedure to prepare the
> > > mold surface is to apply wax followed by PVA but so far all my
> > > attempts have been unsuccessful. The PVA  just won't stick to the
> > > waxed surface but form seperate beads of liquids. I have tried to
> > > thicken the PVA but it didn't  help. May I know what I might have
> > > done wrong ?
> > >
> > > Any advices will be well appreciated.
> > >
> > > Y C Lui
> > >
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> > >
> >
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